CN106798365A - 一种保暖性强的面料 - Google Patents

一种保暖性强的面料 Download PDF

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CN106798365A
CN106798365A CN201510825641.5A CN201510825641A CN106798365A CN 106798365 A CN106798365 A CN 106798365A CN 201510825641 A CN201510825641 A CN 201510825641A CN 106798365 A CN106798365 A CN 106798365A
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fabric
fiber
wool
strong
reflectivity
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陈建强
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/02Layered materials
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32BLAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B3/00Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar shape; Layered products comprising a layer having particular features of form
    • B32B3/26Layered products comprising a layer with external or internal discontinuities or unevennesses, or a layer of non-planar shape; Layered products comprising a layer having particular features of form characterised by a particular shape of the outline of the cross-section of a continuous layer; characterised by a layer with cavities or internal voids ; characterised by an apertured layer
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32BLAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/02Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/024Woven fabric
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
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    • B32BLAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/02Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/026Knitted fabric
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    • B32B5/02Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/08Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer the fibres or filaments of a layer being of different substances, e.g. conjugate fibres, mixture of different fibres
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    • B32B5/22Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed
    • B32B5/24Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/26Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer another layer next to it also being fibrous or filamentary
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    • B32B7/14Interconnection of layers using interposed adhesives or interposed materials with bonding properties applied in spaced arrangements, e.g. in stripes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
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    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
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    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/32Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/36Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/47Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 5 or 15 of the Periodic Table; Vanadates; Niobates; Tantalates; Arsenates; Antimonates; Bismuthates
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/244Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus
    • D06M13/282Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus with compounds containing phosphorus
    • D06M13/292Mono-, di- or triesters of phosphoric or phosphorous acids; Salts thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/643Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
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    • B32B2250/00Layers arrangement
    • B32B2250/20All layers being fibrous or filamentary
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32BLAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
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    • B32B2262/00Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
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    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
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    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
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    • B32B2262/00Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/14Mixture of at least two fibres made of different materials
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32BLAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2307/00Properties of the layers or laminate
    • B32B2307/30Properties of the layers or laminate having particular thermal properties
    • B32B2307/304Insulating
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32LAYERED PRODUCTS
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    • B32B2437/00Clothing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
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    • D06M2101/12Keratin fibres or silk
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
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    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种保暖性强的面料,其特征在于:包括外层的反射性强的背面织物(3)和内层的反射性弱的正面织物(1),所述背面织物(3)与正面织物(1)之间设置有保暖层(2)。本发明一种复合面料一种保暖性强的面料,正反面分别采用反射性强的背面织物和反射性弱的正面织物制成,可翻转反穿,昼夜温差大的地区,当白天较热时,把反射性强的背面织物的一面穿在外面,达到降温的效果;当晚上较冷时,把反射性弱的深色面来哦的一面穿在外面,达到保温的效果。

Description

一种保暖性强的面料
技术领域
本发明涉及一种保暖性强的面料,属于面料技术领域。
背景技术
传统的面料是一衣一用,根据季节设计,再昼夜温差大的地区,此种面料无法一衣二用,容易太热或受寒,而普通的如羽绒服,棉服等面料产品,多采用人工操作缝纫机进行产品缝制,通过缝纫线迹,形成羽绒或填充物的储存空间,由于产品的特殊性和产品工艺的要求,为保证产品质量和穿着效果,在采用的生产材料和生产工艺等方面有很多要求和限制,尤其在制造材料选用,缝制工艺以及穿着体验方面存在一定的风险。另外,传统的制作面料的所采用的面料为不可以两面使用。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服上述不足,提供不再有热量流失管道,保暖性能强的一种保暖性强的面料。
本发明的目的是这样实现的:
一种保暖性强的面料,包括外层的反射性强的背面织物和内层的反射性弱的正面织物,所述背面织物与正面织物之间设置有保暖层,所述保暖层包括内层面料和外层面料,内层面料与外层面料之间具有间隔设置的相互平行的粘合段,粘合段处的内层面料和外层面料粘合在一起,相邻的粘合段之间的内层面料和外层面料之间形成填充空间,所述正面织物包括有机织面料和针织面料,机织面料和针织面料之间通过粘合剂对合粘合在一起。
制作一种保暖性强的面料的工艺方法为:
1)、纱线品种设计:
选用羊毛纤维、聚丁二酸丁二醇酯丝线和聚烯烃弹性纤维,所述羊毛纤维由兔毛纤维、美丽诺超细羊毛纤维、安哥拉山羊毛纤维以及丝光羊毛纤维四种纤维混纺编织而成,所述的混纺兔羊毛纤维面料中各成分所占重量百分比分别为:所述兔毛纤维占18%-22%,所述美丽诺超细羊毛纤维占15%-19%,所述安哥拉山羊毛纤维占26%-30%,所述丝光羊毛纤维占29%-41%,对羊毛纤维、聚丁二酸丁二醇酯丝线和聚烯烃弹性纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理,抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂,磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4%,酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理,蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2%,柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂,水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8%;
2)、纺纱工艺:
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维,30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛(成条)→并条(一并、二并) →气流纺→自动络筒,其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%~55%,温度25℃~30℃。
在和毛工艺中,选用NimateCF-5和毛油,NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂,以喷雾法,添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂,使纤维具有优异的润滑性,增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性,提高了纤维的可梳理性,有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合。
在梳毛工艺中,喂毛周期掌握50s~60s,出条速度不超过100m/min,出条克重5g/m,不匀系数控制在2%以内。
在并条工艺中,纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,一并的参数8.2,二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机(D45型),下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%~1%。在这个过程中,必须要控制好牵伸倍数,总牵伸控制7.8倍,其中主牵伸4.58倍,后续牵伸1.7倍。
3)、织造工艺:
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造,在剑杆织机上将25/1 公支的高支粗纺纱,以2/2 的斜纹为基础组织,采用单经单纬的方式上机织造,上机幅宽为178cm,上机经密为225 根/10cm,纬密为216 根/10cm。
4)、后整理工艺:
后整理包括:烧毛-单煮-洗呢-双煮-烘呢-光触媒加工液浸轧-烘呢-TEFLON三防整理-焙烘-熟修-刷毛-剪毛-刷毛-给湿-罐蒸,另外,光触媒加工液的用量30g/l—50g/l,轧液率75%—85%,在光触媒加工液的使用时保持车25m/min—30m/min,温度120℃—135℃,TEFLON三防整理加工的轧液75-85%,车速保持18-22m/min,温度160-180℃,最后制得的面料规格为:纱支96/2-100/2Nm,总紧度145-165,经密615-796根/10厘米,纬密400-358根/10厘米,克重340-390克/米。
与现有技术相比,本发明的有益效果是:
本发明一种复合面料一种保暖性强的面料,正反面分别采用反射性强的背面织物和反射性弱的正面织物制成,可翻转反穿,昼夜温差大的地区,当白天较热时,把反射性强的背面织物的一面穿在外面,达到降温的效果;当晚上较冷时,把反射性弱的深色面来哦的一面穿在外面,达到保温的效果。
附图说明
图1为本发明一种保暖性强的面料的结构示意图。
图2为图1中保暖层的示意图。
图中:正面织物1、保暖层2、内层面料2.1、外层面料2.2、粘合段2.3、填充空间2.4、背面织物3。
具体实施方式
参见图1和图2,本发明涉及一种保暖性强的面料,包括外层的反射性强的背面织物3和内层的反射性弱的正面织物1,可翻转反穿,所述背面织物3 与正面织物1 之间设置有保暖层2,所述保暖层2 包括具有单层的高支数高密度面料的内层面料2.1 和单层的高支数高密度面料的外层面料2.2,内层面料2.1 与外层面料2.2 之间具有间隔设置的相互平行并且宽度为2mm-15mm 的粘合段2.3,粘合段2.3 处的内层面料2.1 和外层面料2.2粘合在一起,相邻的粘合段2.3 之间的内层面料2.1 和外层面料2.2 之间形成可以容置填充材料如羽绒、填充物等的填充空间2.4。
制作一种保暖性强的面料的工艺方法为:
1)、纱线品种设计:
选用羊毛纤维、聚丁二酸丁二醇酯丝线和聚烯烃弹性纤维,所述羊毛纤维由兔毛纤维、美丽诺超细羊毛纤维、安哥拉山羊毛纤维以及丝光羊毛纤维四种纤维混纺编织而成,所述的混纺兔羊毛纤维面料中各成分所占重量百分比分别为:所述兔毛纤维占18%-22%,所述美丽诺超细羊毛纤维占15%-19%,所述安哥拉山羊毛纤维占26%-30%,所述丝光羊毛纤维占29%-41%,对羊毛纤维、聚丁二酸丁二醇酯丝线和聚烯烃弹性纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理,抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂,磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4%,酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理,蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2%,柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂,水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8%;
2)、纺纱工艺:
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维,30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛(成条)→并条(一并、二并) →气流纺→自动络筒,其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%~55%,温度25℃~30℃。
在和毛工艺中,选用NimateCF-5和毛油,NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂,以喷雾法,添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂,使纤维具有优异的润滑性,增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性,提高了纤维的可梳理性,有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合。
在梳毛工艺中,喂毛周期掌握50s~60s,出条速度不超过100m/min,出条克重5g/m,不匀系数控制在2%以内。
在并条工艺中,纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,一并的参数8.2,二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机(D45型),下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%~1%。在这个过程中,必须要控制好牵伸倍数,总牵伸控制7.8倍,其中主牵伸4.58倍,后续牵伸1.7倍。
3)、织造工艺:
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造,在剑杆织机上将25/1 公支的高支粗纺纱,以2/2 的斜纹为基础组织,采用单经单纬的方式上机织造,上机幅宽为178cm,上机经密为225 根/10cm,纬密为216 根/10cm。
4)、后整理工艺:
后整理包括:烧毛-单煮-洗呢-双煮-烘呢-光触媒加工液浸轧-烘呢-TEFLON三防整理-焙烘-熟修-刷毛-剪毛-刷毛-给湿-罐蒸,另外,光触媒加工液的用量30g/l—50g/l,轧液率75%—85%,在光触媒加工液的使用时保持车25m/min—30m/min,温度120℃—135℃,TEFLON三防整理加工的轧液75-85%,车速保持18-22m/min,温度160-180℃,最后制得的面料规格为:纱支96/2-100/2Nm,总紧度145-165,经密615-796根/10厘米,纬密400-358根/10厘米,克重340-390克/米。

Claims (2)

1.一种保暖性强的面料,其特征在于:包括外层的反射性强的背面织物(3)和内层的反射性弱的正面织物(1),所述背面织物(3)与正面织物(1)之间设置有保暖层(2),所述保暖层(2)包括内层面料(2.1)和外层面料(2.2),内层面料(2.1)与外层面料(2.2)之间具有间隔设置的相互平行的粘合段(2.3),粘合段(2.3)处的内层面料(2.1)和外层面料(2.2)粘合在一起,相邻的粘合段(2.3)之间的内层面料(2.1)和外层面料(2.2)之间形成填充空间(2.4),所述正面织物包括有机织面料和针织面料,机织面料和针织面料之间通过粘合剂对合粘合在一起。
2.制作权利要求1所述的一种保暖性强的面料的工艺方法,其特征在于:
1)、纱线品种设计:
选用羊毛纤维、聚丁二酸丁二醇酯丝线和聚烯烃弹性纤维,所述羊毛纤维由兔毛纤维、美丽诺超细羊毛纤维、安哥拉山羊毛纤维以及丝光羊毛纤维四种纤维混纺编织而成,所述的混纺兔羊毛纤维面料中各成分所占重量百分比分别为:所述兔毛纤维占18%-22%,所述美丽诺超细羊毛纤维占15%-19%,所述安哥拉山羊毛纤维占26%-30%,所述丝光羊毛纤维占29%-41%,对羊毛纤维、聚丁二酸丁二醇酯丝线和聚烯烃弹性纤维进行抗起球处理、酶处理和柔软处理,抗起球处理选用磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物作为抗起球剂,磷酸酯三氧化二锑混合物用量为羊毛纤维重量1.5-4%,酶处理系使用蛋白酶进行处理,蛋白酶用量为羊毛纤维重量的0.1-0.2%,柔软处理选用的柔软剂为水溶性有机硅柔软剂,水溶性有机硅柔软剂用量为羊毛纤维重量的6-8%;
2)、纺纱工艺:
将染色后70%的细支羊毛纤维,30%的聚酯纤维通过和毛→打毛→开松→梳毛(成条)→并条(一并、二并) →气流纺→自动络筒,其中纺纱工艺流程中控制相对湿度50%~55%,温度25℃~30℃。
在和毛工艺中,选用NimateCF-5和毛油,NimateC602阳离子型抗静电剂,以喷雾法,添加占毛量10%的和毛油及占毛量10%的抗静电剂,使纤维具有优异的润滑性,增加纤维的抱合性、抗静电性,提高了纤维的可梳理性,有助于不同性能纤维充分均匀混合。
在梳毛工艺中,喂毛周期掌握50s~60s,出条速度不超过100m/min,出条克重5g/m,不匀系数控制在2%以内。
在并条工艺中,纺制25/1公支的高支粗纺纱,一并的参数8.2,二并后毛条克重控制在4g/m。选用进口自调匀整并条机(D45型),下机毛条克重均匀差异系数不超过0.5%~1%。在这个过程中,必须要控制好牵伸倍数,总牵伸控制7.8倍,其中主牵伸4.58倍,后续牵伸1.7倍。
3)、织造工艺:
整经→穿综、插筘、插片→剑杆织造,在剑杆织机上将25/1 公支的高支粗纺纱,以2/2 的斜纹为基础组织,采用单经单纬的方式上机织造,上机幅宽为178cm,上机经密为225 根/10cm,纬密为216 根/10cm。
4)、后整理工艺:
后整理包括:烧毛-单煮-洗呢-双煮-烘呢-光触媒加工液浸轧-烘呢-TEFLON三防整理-焙烘-熟修-刷毛-剪毛-刷毛-给湿-罐蒸,另外,光触媒加工液的用量30g/l—50g/l,轧液率75%—85%,在光触媒加工液的使用时保持车25m/min—30m/min,温度120℃—135℃,TEFLON三防整理加工的轧液75-85%,车速保持18-22m/min,温度160-180℃,最后制得的面料规格为:纱支96/2-100/2Nm,总紧度145-165,经密615-796根/10厘米,纬密400-358根/10厘米,克重340-390克/米。
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