CN105821563B - 一种苎麻花式色织面料的制备方法 - Google Patents

一种苎麻花式色织面料的制备方法 Download PDF

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CN105821563B
CN105821563B CN201610348928.8A CN201610348928A CN105821563B CN 105821563 B CN105821563 B CN 105821563B CN 201610348928 A CN201610348928 A CN 201610348928A CN 105821563 B CN105821563 B CN 105821563B
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洪强
熊梦翼
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/03—Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/11—Starch or derivatives thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/327—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof
    • D06M15/333—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof of vinyl acetate; Polyvinylalcohol
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/507—Polyesters
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
    • D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/40—Reduced friction resistance, lubricant properties; Sizing compositions

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
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Abstract

本发明涉及衣物面料制备技术领域，提供一种苎麻花式色织面料的制备方法，采用36Nm或24Nm长纤苎麻纱为原料，花式纱处理经纬纱，采用色织工艺，依次分条整经－浆纱－穿筘－织造－修织－后处理工艺；后处理工艺为：烧毛－退浆－煮炼－加柔软剂－拉幅定型－预缩－打卷－成包。本发明通过在特殊的织造环境、浆料配方，被覆上浆以及后处理工艺，在保留了苎麻面料透气凉爽、出汗不粘身、抗霉菌等优点的同时，改善了其手感粗糙、不够柔软等问题，使面料符合高端市场的需求。

Description

一种苎麻花式色织面料的制备方法
技术领域
本发明涉及衣物面料制备技术领域，具体一种苎麻花式色织面料的制备方法。
背景技术
苎麻面料其纤维长，比棉花的纤维长度还要长几倍，经过脱胶加工处理的苎麻纤维光泽良好，洁白。苎麻面料特点是透气凉爽，这主要是由于其结构中的空隙大，所以十分透气，吸水而且散湿效率高，还是于棉花相比，苎麻纤维的强力是棉花的7倍以上，而且延伸性小，轻，于棉花相比轻20％左右，而且不怕虫蛀、不怕霉菌。
苎麻面料缺点是：手感粗糙，穿着不滑爽舒适，易起皱，悬垂性差；麻纤维钢硬，抱合力差。如何保留其本身优点的同时改善其手感粗糙、不够柔软的问题是目前大多数面料企业研究的方向。
发明内容
本发明的目的是为了克服上述技术问题，提供一种苎麻花式色织面料的制备方法，保留了苎麻面料透气凉爽等优点的同时，改善了其手感粗糙、不够柔软的问题。
本发明的技术问题主要通过下述技术方案得以解决：
一种苎麻花式色织面料的制备方法，采用36Nm或24Nm长纤苎麻纱为原料，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
经纬花式纱处理：将36Nm或24Nm单纱染色，然后用一根染色纱加一根白色纱合并，经过倍捻机捻线，捻度为420捻，得花式纱用作面料经向用纱，纬向纱采用两根同色纱倍捻成线后染成经向纱同色，纬向纱一般采用两根白色纱捻后染色。
色织处理：经纬纱备好后，采用色织工艺，依次分条整经－浆纱－穿筘－织造－修织－后处理工艺；所述后处理工艺为：烧毛－退浆－煮炼－加柔软剂－拉幅定型－预缩－打卷－成包。加柔软剂即俗称上软。
进一步由于苎麻毛羽长，通常棉布工艺无法织造，所述色织处理中浆纱工序采用苎麻被覆上浆工艺，浆料采用变性淀粉55％，环保聚脂胶粉25％，PVA即聚乙稀醇20％，配制成浆并在此基础上添加猪油2～3％，浆纱上浆率10％左右。
进一步，所述色织处理中织造环境为：温度20～28℃，湿度85～90℃。
进一步由于苎麻纤维刚性大，通常面料后处理工艺做出的面料比较硬，即使加了柔软剂，也只是增加了悬垂感，为了面料更为柔软，所述后处理工艺中煮炼工序采用添加纤维素酶处理且无添加淀粉酶。
本发明的有益效果是：通过在特殊的织造环境、浆料配方，被覆上浆以及后处理工艺，在保留了苎麻面料透气凉爽、出汗不粘身、抗霉菌等优点的同时，改善了其手感粗糙、不够柔软等问题，使面料符合高端市场的需求。
具体实施方式
下面对本发明的技术方案作进一步具体的说明，而不是限制本发明。
实施例1：
一种苎麻花式色织面料的制备方法，采用36Nm长纤苎麻纱为原料，包括以下步骤：
经纬花式纱处理：将36Nm单纱染色，然后用一根染色纱加一根白色纱合并，经过倍捻机捻线，捻度为420捻，得花式纱用作面料经向用纱，纬向纱采用两根同色纱倍捻成线后染成经向纱同色，纬向纱一般采用两根白色纱捻后染色。
色织处理：经纬纱备好后，采用色织工艺，依次分条整经－浆纱－穿筘－织造－修织－后处理工艺；所述后处理工艺为：烧毛－退浆－煮炼－加柔软剂－拉幅定型－预缩－打卷－成包。加柔软剂即俗称上软。
由于苎麻毛羽长，通常棉布工艺无法织造，所述色织处理中浆纱工序采用苎麻被覆上浆工艺，浆料采用变性淀粉55％，环保聚脂胶粉25％，PVA即聚乙稀醇20％，配制成浆并在此基础上添加猪油2％，浆纱上浆率10％左右。
所述色织处理中织造环境为：温度25℃，湿度85℃。由于苎麻纤维刚性大，通常面料后处理工艺做出的面料比较硬，即使加了柔软剂，也只是增加了悬垂感，为了面料更为柔软，所述后处理工艺中煮炼工序采用添加纤维素酶处理且无添加淀粉酶。
实施例2：
一种苎麻花式色织面料的制备方法，采用24Nm长纤苎麻纱为原料，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
经纬花式纱处理：将24Nm单纱染色，然后用一根染色纱加一根白色纱合并，经过倍捻机捻线，捻度为420捻，得花式纱用作面料经向用纱，纬向纱采用两根同色纱倍捻成线后染成经向纱同色，纬向纱一般采用两根白色纱捻后染色。
色织处理：经纬纱备好后，采用色织工艺，依次分条整经－浆纱－穿筘－织造－修织－后处理工艺；所述后处理工艺为：烧毛－退浆－煮炼－加柔软剂－拉幅定型－预缩－打卷－成包。加柔软剂即俗称上软。
由于苎麻毛羽长，通常棉布工艺无法织造，所述色织处理中浆纱工序采用苎麻被覆上浆工艺，浆料采用变性淀粉55％，环保聚脂胶粉25％，PVA即聚乙稀醇20％，配制成浆并在此基础上添加猪油3％，浆纱上浆率10％左右。色织处理中织造环境为：温度20℃，湿度90℃。由于苎麻纤维刚性大，通常面料后处理工艺做出的面料比较硬，即使加了柔软剂，也只是增加了悬垂感，为了面料更为柔软，所述后处理工艺中煮炼工序采用添加纤维素酶处理且无添加淀粉酶。
本实施例只是本发明示例的实施方式，对于本领域内的技术人员而言，在本发明公开了应用方法和原理的基础上，很容易做出各种类型的改进或变形，而不仅限于本发明上述具体实施方式所描述的结构，因此前面描述的方式只是优选方案，而并不具有限制性的意义，凡是依本发明所作的等效变化与修改，都在本发明权利要求书的范围保护范围内。

Claims (2)

1.一种苎麻花式色织面料的制备方法，采用36Nm或24Nm长纤苎麻纱为原料，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
a.经纬花式纱处理：将36Nm或24Nm单根长纤苎麻纱染色，然后用一根染色纱加一根白色纱合并，经过倍捻机捻线，捻度为420捻，得花式纱用作面料经向用纱，纬向纱采用两根同色纱倍捻成线后染成经向纱同色；
b.色织处理：经纬纱备好后，采用色织工艺，依次分条整经－浆纱－穿筘－织造－修织－后处理工艺；所述后处理工艺为：烧毛－退浆－煮炼－加柔软剂－拉幅定型－预缩－打卷－成包；
所述色织处理中浆纱工序采用苎麻被覆上浆工艺，浆料采用变性淀粉55％，环保聚脂胶粉25％，PVA20％，并在此基础上添加猪油2～3％；
所述色织处理中织造环境为：温度20～28℃，湿度85～90℃。
2.根据权利要求1所述的苎麻花式色织面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述后处理工艺中煮炼工序采用添加纤维素酶处理且无添加淀粉酶。
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