CN105726439B - Golden cicada spends skin whitening, moisturizing medicine cosmetic and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Golden cicada spends skin whitening, moisturizing medicine cosmetic and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN105726439B CN105726439B CN201610082170.8A CN201610082170A CN105726439B CN 105726439 B CN105726439 B CN 105726439B CN 201610082170 A CN201610082170 A CN 201610082170A CN 105726439 B CN105726439 B CN 105726439B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
- A61K8/987—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of golden cicadas to spend skin whitening, moisturizing medicine cosmetic, and the golden cicada anther cosmetic is by following mass content at being grouped as:Golden cicada spends extracting solution 8%, natural plant grease 6%, chelating agent 0.05~0.1%, moisturizer 3%, assistant for emulsifying agent 5%, thickener 0.5%, fragrance conditioning agent 0~1%, glycerine 5.0%, deionized water surplus.The present invention further simultaneously discloses the preparation method of above-mentioned golden cicada flower skin whitening, moisturizing medicine cosmetic.Method using the present invention can as far as possible preserving capital cicada fungus active ingredient, give full play to golden cicada flower value.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of medicine cosmetic and preparation method thereof, more particularly, to a kind of golden cicada anther cosmetic and its preparation side
Method belongs to medicinal plant manufacture field.
Background technology
Medicine cosmetic (Cosmeceutical) English name is by two word of Cosmetics and drug (Pharmaceuticals)
It is composed, means the cosmetics with pharmaceutical properties.The founder Albert of beauty chemist association of the U.S. in 1961
Kligman proposes the concept of " medicine adornment ", it is believed that medicine cosmetic is " product between drug and cosmetics ".With common makeup
The difference of product mainly has:Medicine cosmetic is guidance with medical pharmacology theory, and compound basis medical thinking simplifies as possible, be free of or
Contain pigment, fragrance, preservative even surfactant less as possible, and the content of active ingredient is higher, with strong points, effect is aobvious
It writes;Cosmetics are only the basic nursing to skin, have the effects that protection and cleaning skin, and medicine cosmetic is asked for skin
Topic and skin health demand and design, have repair skin barrier, remove free radical, inhibit tyrosine kinase activity, reduce
The effects that stimulation is former.Medicine cosmetic is that have the effect of that reparation, paramedicines, irritation are less than between drug and cosmetics
Drug, safe, the probability for generating allergy and stimulate the reaction is relatively low, so medicine cosmetic is mainly used for beauty, skin care
With promotion skin health, slight skin is solved the problems, such as.
Golden cicada spends (Vegetable cicada) abbreviation cicada fungus, big cordyceps sinensis etc., and entomogenous fungi is belonged in biological classification;
In more than the 530 kinds of cordyceps sinensis that the current whole world is found, golden cicada flower, cordyceps sinensis are only two kinds therein;China's medicine-food two-purpose
Entomogenous fungi it is most commonly seen have cordyceps sinensis, golden cicada flower, stiff silkworm etc., they, which are a kind of shapes, has " animal " and " plant "
Morphological feature.The forming process of cicada fungus is that the larva of cicada is infected by Cordyceps Militaris before cicada sprouts wings, is parasitic, when climatic environment is suitable
When, the nutrition for absorbing polypide is converted to mycelium, and final polypide accounts for tool by mycelium and only remains next body completely.All things on earth is multiple
Su Shijie, mycelium gradates the cicada fungus conidia powder for having breeding function for the perfect stage from the vegetative phase again, gradually from top
Branch germinates, and is similar to flower, so referred to as cicada fungus.Cicada fungus is compound after Clavicipitaceae fungi Paecilomyces cicadae parasitism bamboo cicada nymph
Body is the cordyceps sinensis similar with cordyceps sinensis.Before 3000, ancient books just describes golden cicada flower and China is found earliest
Entomogenous fungi, in three big entomogenous fungi of China (golden cicada flower, cordyceps sinensis and stiff silkworm), the record of golden cicada flower is compared with cordyceps sinensis
It is 800 years early.《Bencao Tujing》、《Lei Gong Pao Zhi Lun》、《Classified Materia Meidca》、《Dictionary of medicinal plant》Equal medical books are on the books, south
Its classical treatise of Northern Dynasties period thunder Xiao《Thunder God big gun moxibustion opinion》Described in " cicada fungus, it is all to make, the full person of white flower.Receive after in room Xia Dong
Angle is outstanding dry, after removing first soil, is boiled one with pulp-water, until night dries, it is finely ground with it, have special effect.", this is also to be spent earliest about golden cicada
Literature record.It is China's rare rare entomogenous fungi Chinese medicine the most ancient, and medical value is very high, since its is nontoxic and
Have effects that superior nourishing and fit keeping function, promote longevity, skin maintenance, is enjoyed by purple as imperial tribute always.
Effect effect of golden cicada flower, the successive dynasties, name doctor respectively had discussion, specific as follows:
The Northern and Southern Dynasties (fiveth century of Christian era) thunder Xiao《Lei Gong Pao Zhi Lun》It records:It is all to make, the full person of white flower.Receive after in room Xia Dong
Angle is outstanding dry, after removing first soil, is boiled one with pulp-water, until at night, dry, it is fine ground to use it.
Tang of Sui Zhen Quan's《Haigoushen》It records:Its shell has one jiao on head, such as coronal, the cicada fungus of meaning, most preferably.It is sweet in flavor cold,
It is nontoxic.Main children day hang, frightened epilepsy Chi, morbid night crying of babies palpitaition.
Song dynasty Su Song《Figure is through book on Chinese herbal medicine》In inform:There is a kind of cicada in modern another name for Sichuan Province, there is one jiao on shell head, such as corolla shape, meaning
Cicada fungus.
Song Dynasty Tang Shenwei《Classified Materia Medica from Historical Classics for Emergency》It records:Cicada fungus, place all have, and July adopts, and raw bitter bamboo person is good, and flower goes out
On soil.
Ming Dynasty's Li Shizhen (1518-1593 A.D.)《Compendium of Materia Medica》It records:Cicada fungus can treat frightened epilepsy, morbid night crying of babies palpitaition, the same cicada slough of work(.
In addition to above-mentioned classical medical treatise, also many ancient medicine man monographs describe the compound of cicada fungus, such as Song Dynasty《It is holy
The total record of Ji》《Key to therapeutic of children's disease》Deng.
Golden cicada spends the prescription as beautifying face and moistering lotion on the books very early,《Sheng Nong's herbal classic》" Jian Hei über, make us complexion for record
It is good ".Traditional Chinese medicine book is introduced, and cicada fungus contains a large amount of chitins and nitrogen etc., and function has reduction striated muscle tensity, and to nerve
Section has blocking effect.Golden cicada flower has effects that skin maintenance, modern scientific research show that golden cicada flower is rich in alkaline polysaccharide, egg
White matter, amino acid, cordycepin, ucleosides, cordycepic acid, superoxide dismutase SOD, vitamins and calcium, iron, phosphorus, selenium etc. are micro-
Secondary element etc. can also promote wound healing by oral absorption, golden cicada flower, can be used to repair damaged skin outside.
Specifically, golden cicada flower have effects that it is as follows:
A, golden cicada spends the effect of polysaccharide is to skin:
Golden cicada flower alkaline polysaccharide has the function of antibacterial, anti-inflammatory effect, enhancing Cell-mediated Immunity.First, polysaccharide has
Stronger moisture-keeping functions, principle be the various polarities groups such as hydroxyl, carboxyl in polysaccharide molecule and hydrone form hydrogen bond and
In conjunction with a large number of water molecules, while polysaccharide molecule chain is interweaved and reticulates, and with water Hydrogenbond, plays strong water retention.In addition,
In extracellular matrix, golden cicada spend polysaccharide in skin polysaccharide component and fibrous proteins collectively constitute rich in the extracellular of moisture
Gelatinised matrix provides moisture for skin, and polysaccharide has good filming performance, can be formed in skin surface one layer uniform thin
Film reduces the moisture evaporation of skin surface so that moisture permeates into cuticula from cutaneous substrate tissue, and induction cuticula is further
Aquation reaches deeply moisturizing skin effect.In addition, there is golden cicada flower polysaccharide antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, enhancing Cell-mediated Immunity, external application can support
The effects that driving infringement and resist drying syndrome of the bacterium to skin, and the reparation for promoting skin epidermis to damage.As it can be seen that golden cicada spend it is more
Sugar has the multiple efficacies such as water conservation, reparation, anti-inflammatory to skin.Paecilomyces cicadae total starches have desinsection and stronger anti-ultraviolet radiation to make
With.Paecilomyces cicadae total starches are a kind of good free radical scavenger or radical reaction inhibitor.Theory of traditional Chinese medical science thinks, golden cicada
Flower be it is cold, be suitble to spy thermal man group, be enriching yin sage's product, and skin grow dark sore, acne, small pox etc. be mostly it is fire excess from yin deficiency caused by,
Therefore golden cicada flower can be used for solving above-mentioned skin problem.
B, golden cicada spends the effect of amino acid is to skin:
Golden cicada flower property slightly sweet flavor is micro- salty, related with its amino acid component characteristic, contains 18 kinds of amino acid, wherein human body must
The 8 kinds of amino acid proportions needed are up to 43.2%.Golden cicada spends contained free amino acid that can promote skin-nourishing and immunocompetence,
Moisture acid-base balance is adjusted, the antiallergic ability of sensitive can be improved, prevents wrinkle, activates Skin Cell superoxides
Disproportionation enzymatic activity dispels the free radical of Skin Cell surplus, effective delay skin aging;The phagocytic function of activating macrophage.
Enhance toxin expelling, the function of detoxification of lymphatic system, effectively blocks infringement of the extraneous harmful substance to skin;Improve resisting skin allergy energy
Power, and excretion is decomposed to internal harmful substance and aged cells.
C, the major function of golden cicada pink bollworm oxalic acid:
Cordycepic acid is one of the chief active of golden cicada flower, and cordycepic acid can inhibit the growth of various germs, anti-tissue fibrosis,
Anti peroxidation of lipid, being capable of effective protection cell.The height of cordycepic acid content be weigh cordyceps sinensis quality one of main standard, one
As think that the medical value of the high cordyceps sinensis of cordycepic acid content is high, the cordycepic acid during golden cicada is spent is 70.6mg/g, compares cordyceps sinensis
1.99 times of 35.4mg/g high.
D, the major function of golden cicada floral leaf acid:
Folic acid is the complex of a variety of B family vitamins, is the important intermediate transfer body of human metabolism, participates in hereditary base
The synthesis of matter nuclifort (DNA) and ribonucleic acid (RNA) participates in the metabolism of amino acid, participates in hemoglobin and methyl
The synthesis of compound.The content of golden cicada floral leaf acid is 210ug/100g, 9.13 times higher than cordyceps sinensis 23.0ug/100g.
E, the major function of golden cicada flower vitamin E:
It is 5300ug/100g that golden cicada, which spends the content of vitamin E, 143.24 times higher than cordyceps sinensis 37ug/100g.
Vitamin E has antioxidation, to protect the moisture in sebum and cell membrane protein and skin;It is also
Regeneration and the vigor that can promote human body cell, postpone the ageing process of cell.Moreover it is possible to promote profit of the human body to vitamin A
With;Synergistic effect can be played with vitamin C, protect the health of skin, reduce occurrence of skin infections;To in skin collagenous fibres and
Elastic fibers has " moist " effect, so as to improve with the elasticity of safeguarding skin;It can promote the blood circulation in skin, skin is made to obtain
To sufficient nutrition and moisture, to maintain the tender and gloss of skin;The formation of pigmented spots, senile plaque is may also suppress, face is reduced
Portion's wrinkle and pure white skin prevent acne.
F, the major function of golden cicada flower selenium:
Golden cicada, which is spent, is rich in selenium, up to 377ug/100g in conidia powder, and cordyceps sinensis does not detect selenium.Modern pharmacology is demonstrate,proved
Bright, selenium antioxidant and anti-aging, oxidation resistance is 500 times of vitamin, and selenium is in entire cell in body metabolism activity
The peroxide of generation carries out reduction, and membrane structure is protected to be damaged from peroxide.
Selenium is referred to as " natural antidote ", and principle is selenium as negatively charged nonmetallic ion, in vivo can be with
Be combined with positively charged harmful metal ion, form metal-selenium-protein complex, the carcinogenic metal of energy from
Son excludes in vitro, the toxicity of metal ion to be reduced, to play the effect of toxin expelling and removing toxic substances.
Also have report golden cicada flower being applied on skin care item at present, if publication date is on 07 15th, 2015, publication number
In the Chinese patent of CN104771349A, to disclose a kind of skin care item and preparation method thereof containing plant extracts, the shield
Skin product raw material is golden cicada flower extract (1-4 parts), and dendrobium candidum extract (1-5 parts), Herb Gynostemmae Pentaphylli extract (2-7 parts) smokes clothing
Careless extract (2-6 parts), Rosmarinus officinalis extract (2-6 parts), Jojoba extract (2-8 parts), 90-97 parts of skin care item lotion,
Plant extracts is added in the raw material after emulsification and stirs evenly.Extract component described in this method is indefinite, and
Effect between extract can not also understand, and be which kind of extract plays a role and can not also learn actually, golden cicada flower extract hair
It is also indefinite to wave any effect, and obtained skin care item are not detected its effect and quality, it can not be by later product
Carry out industrialization production.
The method of generally use ultrasound alcohol extracting can spend active ingredient to carry out high efficiency extraction golden cicada at present, and traditional decoction carries
The destruction for taking method that golden cicada can be caused to spend the active ingredients such as middle polysaccharide, vitamin, amino acid, organized enzyme, it is more in products obtained therefrom
Sugar, vitamin, chlorophyll, free amino acid equal size are relatively low, greatly reduce the utilization rate of golden cicada flower.It is a kind of currently not yet
Can in preserving capital cicada fungus active ingredient golden cicada anther cosmetic and preparation method thereof.
Invention content
The technical problem to be solved in the present invention is to provide a kind of preserving capital cicada fungus active ingredient as far as possible, give full play to gold
Golden cicada flower skin whitening, moisturizing medicine cosmetic of cicada fungus value and preparation method thereof.
In order to solve the above technical problem, the present invention provides a kind of golden cicadas to spend skin whitening, moisturizing medicine cosmetic, the golden cicada anther adornment
Product are by following mass content at being grouped as:
Golden cicada spends extracting solution (golden cicada flower effective active composition) 8%
Natural plant grease 6%
Chelating agent 0.05~0.1%
Moisturizer 3%
Assistant for emulsifying agent is 5%
Thickener is 0.5%
Fragrance conditioning agent 0~1%
Glycerine 5.0%
Deionized water, surplus.
The improvement of skin whitening, moisturizing medicine cosmetic is spent as the golden cicada of the present invention:
Golden cicada flower extracting solution preparation method be:Dry (moisture content≤10%) golden cicada is spent raw material, and (wild golden cicada spends original
Material) crush after;Using ultrasonic (supersonic frequency of 60kHz) alcohol extraction process, alcohol extracting 0.5~1 hour at room temperature;The alcohol is body
The ethyl alcohol of product a concentration of 50%, solid-liquid ratio 1g/6~8ml;
Alcohol extracting gains obtain golden cicada flower extracting solution through filtering, concentrating.
Golden cicada as the present invention spends being further improved for skin whitening, moisturizing medicine cosmetic:
6% natural plant grease is made of 4% apricot kernel oil and 2% tea-seed oil;
The EDTA-2Na solution that chelating agent is the EDTA solution that mass concentration is 0.1% or mass concentration is 0.1%;
Moisturizer is avenabeta glucosan;
Assistant for emulsifying agent is Sepigel305;
Thickener is Carbolpol 940;
Fragrance conditioning agent is attar of rose (Rosa Damascana).
The present invention goes back while providing the preparation method of above-mentioned golden cicada flower skin whitening, moisturizing medicine cosmetic, it is characterized in that including such as
Lower step:
One, the preparation of golden cicada flower extracting solution:
1), pre-treatment:
A. golden cicada spends ingredient requirement:
Annual six July (being that golden cicada spends unearthed season, and harvests the Best Times of golden cicada flower), harvesting carries spore
The golden cicada of sub- powder spends complete stool;
B. it sterilizes:
First golden cicada flower wash clean (preferably shell above is peeled off), ultraviolet sterilization (10min), (45 DEG C of low temperature drying
Low temperature heated-air drying is about for 24 hours) until moisture content≤10%, obtains dry golden cicada flower raw material;
C. it crushes:
First raw material is spent to be crushed to 60 mesh sieve (that is, obtaining the coarse powder that granularity is 60 mesh) dry golden cicada, then using super
Crushing of Ultrafine technology carries out fine crushing to 500 mesh sieve is crossed, and obtains fine powder (sieving obtains the powder of grain size≤25 micron);
2) it, extracts:
It is 1g/ according to solid-to-liquid ratio by 50% alcohol of volumetric concentration and fine powder (that is, golden cicada pollen end of fine crushing)
6~8ml uses ultrasonic (frequency of 60kHz) to extract 0.5~1 hour at room temperature, obtains golden cicada flower extract liquor (obtained by alcohol extracting
Object);
3) it, filters:
Golden cicada flower extract liquor is filtered by vacuum, Rotary Evaporators concentrate the 1/3 of (50 DEG C) most original volume, obtain gold
Cicada fungus leaching liquor;
4), refined filtration:
Golden cicada obtained by step 3) is spent into leaching liquor, further across millipore filter (pore size filter be 0.22 micron) into
Row fine filtering obtains golden cicada flower extracting solution (golden cicada flower effective active composition).
Two, emulsification (formula is as described above):
A phase raw materials are constituted by deionized water, glycerine, chelating agent, moisturizer, with natural plant grease for B phase raw materials,
With assistant for emulsifying agent for C phase raw materials, D phase raw materials are constituted by golden cicada flower extracting solution (golden cicada flower effective active composition), thickener, with
Fragrance conditioning agent is E phase raw materials;
A phase raw materials are heated to 80~90 DEG C, are stirred until homogeneous mixing (to being completely dissolved);
B phase raw materials are heated to 80~90 DEG C, moderate-speed mixer is then rapidly added to uniform mixing (about 10~20min)
Into above-mentioned mixed uniformly A phases raw material, after homogenizer keeps the temperature (80~90 DEG C) 10~20min of stirring, it is cooled to 55~65 DEG C;
C phase raw materials are continuously added, homogenizer high-speed heat insulation (55~65 DEG C) is stirred until homogeneous mixing (about 10~20min);Wait for that temperature drops
To 30~40 DEG C of addition E phase raw materials, uniform stirring mixing (stirring homogeneous);
In the present invention, the rotating speed of high-speed stirred is 550~650r/min, and the rotating speed of moderate-speed mixer is 80~120r/
Min, remaining stirring that do not inform clearly refer to the rotating speed of 40~60r/min.
Three, filling and package:
It is 5.5~6.2 (being adjusted with citric acid or malic acid) that emulsion obtained by step 2, which is adjusted pH value,
Vacuum filling obtains golden cicada flower skin whitening, moisturizing medicine cosmetic.
In the present invention, as described in Table 1 as the golden cicada of preferable case flower face cream medicine cosmetic basic recipe.
Table 1, golden cicada flower face cream medicine cosmetic basic recipe (W/W, %)
In the present invention, the refined filtration of step 4) is concretely:
Feed pipe is put to coarse filtration liquid (golden cicada flower leaching liquor), high speed tube centrifuge (rotating speed 15000r/ is started
Min) and peristaltic pump, the rotating speed of peristaltic pump is set as 150~250r/min, start centrifugal filtration to new liquid medicine storage tank;It crosses
Filter is filtered using total closed type, and whole process all completes in body, and to environment without pollution-free, filtering uses micropore filter element
(pore size filter is 0.22 micron), filter core is reusable, and the dry deslagging of filter residue may be implemented in filter, and entire filter process can
Realize full-automatic operation;The filtrate obtained after refined filtration is that golden cicada spends extracting solution (the golden cicada flower effective active composition) golden cicada
Contain polysaccharide, protein, amino acid, cordycepin, ucleosides, cordycepic acid, superoxide dismutase SOD, dimension life in flower extracting solution
The effective active compositions such as plain class and calcium, iron, phosphorus, selenium and other trace elements.
Therefore, in the present invention, golden cicada flower effective active composition contains polysaccharide, protein, amino acid, cordycepin, nucleosides
Class, cordycepic acid, superoxide dismutase SOD, vitamins and calcium, iron, phosphorus, selenium and other trace elements etc.;Golden cicada anther cosmetic breast
Change system has selected oil-in-water (O/W) type emulsified body, and empirical evidence O/W types emulsified body is good with human skin affinity, is conducive to
The absorption of active ingredient keeps stabilization to have certain effect active material.Using 4% apricot kernel oil of natural plant grease and
2% tea-seed oil is oil-based system.Water phase is mainly the deionized water to sterilize.EDTA (0.1%EDTA-2Na) is used as chelating agent;It protects
Humectant is avenabeta glucosan, so that Skin Cell is kept plump, is conducive to active ingredient osmotic absorption.To keep the steady of emulsified body
It is qualitative, assistant for emulsifying agent Sepigel305;To adjust the viscosity and mobility of medicine cosmetic, to ensure its stability, increase product
Texture and the vision kept and touch feeling, thickener are Carbolpol 940;Golden cicada anther cosmetic fragrance is adjusted
Match, sense organ dressing agent etc. of the 0-1% attars of rose as its medicine adornment is added.
The product of the present invention uses the raw material of Nantural non-toxic side effect completely.Pilot batch 1kg/ batches, vacuum filling is filling
The loading amount of process control product, overgauge is within 5%.Packaging gives a kind of parent of people using unique wild golden cicada flower design
The visual enjoyment of near-nature forest.The effect of later stage is to golden cicada anther cosmetic and quality have carried out stringent inspection, and golden cicada spends whitening to protect
Wet medicine cosmetic rheology detection, as a result obtains during hot SAPMAC method, shows that good physics and chemical stability, lotion are thin
Greasy, uniformity occurs without discoloration.Centrifugation occurs without layering, coarse phenomenon.After the golden cicada anther adornment 6 months, colour difference meter
Detection uses front and back change of skin, as a result, it has been found that compared with the control, making wrinkle unfold using golden cicada anther adornment, skin whitening effects
It improves.
In the present invention, golden cicada anther cosmetic items evaluation method is as follows:
One, Efficiency assessment:
A. whitening effect measures
Using colorimeter system (Lab colorimeter systems) as defined in International Commission on Illumination (CIE) come measure medicine adornment effect before and after
The whitening effect of golden cicada anther cosmetic is evaluated in the change of skin color.
B. golden cicada anther cosmetic is to tyrosinase inhibitory activity
Tyrosinase is the key that dermal melanin forms rate-limiting enzyme, by measuring inhibiting rate of the inhibitor to tyrosinase
Evaluate whitening effect, principle is:Tyrosinase can generate dopachrome by tyrosine in catalytic machine body, in ultraviolet spectrometry light
There is absorption maximum at degree meter 475nm, the amount of dopachrome can be generated by measurement to calculate tyrosinase inhibitor activity.The party
Method examines active skull cap components to tyrosinase activity inhibiting effect using tyrosine as substrate, by chemical method, easy to operate,
Intuitively, it is suitable for initial whitening effect to detect.
Table 2, inhibitory activity against tyrosinase reaction system
Solvent | A | B | C | D |
L-tyrosine | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 |
Golden cicada anther adornment | 0 | 0 | 0.5 | 0.5 |
Tyrosinase | 0.5 | 0 | 0.5 | 0 |
PBS | 1.0 | 1.5 | 0.5 | 1.0 |
Total amount | 2.0 | 2.0 | 2.0 | 2.0 |
It measures absorbance value after four groups of reaction systems shake up above at ultraviolet specrophotometer 475nm respectively, inhibits
Rate T% calculation formula are:T%={ [(B-A)-(D-C)]/(B-A) } × 100
C. golden cicada anther cosmetic water conservation humectant properties evaluation
The effect that golden cicada anther adornment immortalizes people epidermal cell (HaCat) is investigated, is spent with Western blot golden cicada
Front and back skin aquaporin -3 (AQP3) variation of medicine adornment effect, analysis golden cicada anther cosmetic make the adjusting of aquaporin
With from the moistening effect and mechanism of molecular biology angle elaboration golden cicada anther cosmetic.
Two, golden cicada anther cosmetic safety evaluatio
A. skin allergy test
Draize White Rabbit models:White Rabbit back backbone diamond wool is cut, epidermis is not damaged, unhairing range is left and right
Each about 5cm × 5cm.Tested material 0.5g is coated directly on the skin of left side, is covered with gauze, is finally fixed with adhesive plaster, it is right
As a contrast, application time 72h observes skin 1h to side skin respectively, for 24 hours, 48h, 72h reaction.It presses《European Union's consumer safety
Evaluation method》Cutaneous sensibility evaluation is carried out, has checked whether that erythema and oedema occur.
Human skin patch:After carrying out Skin stimulant experiment in Rabbit, continue human skin patch.
10 people of volunteer is chosen, tested material 0.5g is evenly coated on external application sticker, the right forearm crook that volunteer cleans is spread on, is observed
Inner skin response situation for 24 hours.
B. human body dermatoglyph degree and flexibility test after the effect of cicada fungus medicine cosmetic
Using color as defined in Multi-functional skin image analysis system, skin elasticity tester, International Commission on Illumination (CIE)
Degree system (Lab colorimeter systems) detects influence of the medicine cosmetic to dermatoglyph degree, elasticity, moisture retention respectively, evaluates medicine cosmetic pair
The multiple efficacies such as the crease-resistant, elastic of skin, whitening, anti-aging.
Female volunteers 16, average age 25-40 one full year of life use 2 times daily, and golden cicada anther adornment is used continuously by regulation
Product 6 weeks.Skin visiometer SV 600 are in the environment of constant temperature and humidity (25 ± 2 DEG C of temperature, humidity 50 ± 2%), every time
It surveys 5 points to compare with carbomer (Placebo) once a week, detection coefficient of skin elasticity, parametric texture, roughness parameter
And whitening effect.
Three, the quality testing of golden cicada flower face cream medicine cosmetic
A. rheology detects
Cream centrifuges 15min with 3000rpm speed, has seen whether deployment conditions.Medicine stability test case carries out resistance to
Cold (- 5~0 DEG C), heat-resisting (40-60 DEG C) and illumination test.Observed after one month, investigate golden cicada anther adornment stability, it is heat-resisting,
Resistance to mild illumination.
B. microbial contamination detects
It is according to method inspection microorganism, concrete regulation as defined in Yao Zhuan administration committees of European Union:Medicine cosmetic total plate count
1000cfu/mL is must not exceed, yeast and mold must not exceed 100cfu/mL, coliform, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, golden yellow grape
The pernicious bacterias such as coccus must not detect.
Test strain:Escherichia coli;Pseudomonas aeruginosa;Candida albicans;Staphylococcus aureus;Yeast and mold etc. 6
Kind indicator bacteria.
Specific steps:The bacterial indicator of culture for 24 hours and the instruction saccharomycete of culture 5 days are configured to 50mmol/L PBS
106Cfu/mL bacteria suspensions.Sample to be tested 1g is taken, above-mentioned bacteria suspension 1mL is added and uniformly mixes 20min.Subsequent 50mmol/L PBS
Gradient dilution is carried out, is inoculated in respectively on the culture medium flat plate of different tests bacterial strain, 37 DEG C of cultures are observed as a result, with nothing afterwards for 24 hours
Bacterium water replaces sample as blank control.
Bacteriostasis rate=(control sample average colony number-test specimen average colony number)/control sample average colony number ×
100%;
90% >=bacteriostasis rate >=50% shows that product has bacteriostasis;
Bacteriostasis rate >=90% shows that product has stronger bacteriostasis.
The present invention technical advantage be:
1, since current golden cicada flower prod is mostly based on for oral administration, and the historical records and science of present invention combination golden cicada flower are ground
Study carefully theoretical foundation, to research and develop golden cicada anther cosmetic, the golden cicada anther cosmetic in the present invention has expanded the application field of golden cicada flower, more
Fully to play its value.
2, the present invention preserving capital cicada fungus active ingredient, expansion golden cicada can spend application field, give full play to golden cicada as far as possible
Flower value, the golden cicada anther cosmetic and preparation method thereof are that raw material carries out ultrasonic alcohol extracting with wild golden cicada flower, and active ingredient is not easy
It is destroyed, maintains the effective active composition of golden cicada flower in products obtained therefrom well, and medicine cosmetic makes completely using natural
The effect of raw material, the later stage is to medicine cosmetic and quality testing are studied, and are allowed to meet the standard of American-European medicine cosmetic, to develop
It is suitble to health the medicine cosmetic of compatriots.
In conclusion the present invention research and develop using golden cicada flower as the medicine cosmetic of primary activity ingredient, analyzing skin problem generate
The reason of and mechanism design the cosmetics for meeting compatriots' skin quality, in combination with inside and outside pharmacological evaluation, human efficiency's evaluation and
Product Safety detects, and while ensureing Product Safety, has the characteristics that obvious effect.Therefore, carry out golden cicada anther cosmetic
Research, fully plays its market application value, spends the development of industry to be of great significance golden cicada.That is, the present invention acts on
Skin of face deep layer moistens moisturizing whitening, has effects that notable crease-resistant, can be widely applied to skin cream, cream, lotion, facial mask
And in the skin cares medicine adornment such as Essence.
The usage and dosage of the golden cicada flower skin whitening, moisturizing medicine cosmetic of the present invention can refer to the use of conventional skin whitening, moisturizing cosmetics
Method and dosage.
Description of the drawings
The specific implementation mode of the present invention is described in further detail below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.
Fig. 1 golden cicadas spend technology for extracting effective component figure;
Fig. 2 is that golden cicada anther cosmetic researches and develops artwork;
Fig. 3 is the adjustment effect figure that golden cicada anther cosmetic immortalizes people epidermal cell aquaporin -3;
Fig. 4 is that golden cicada anther cosmetic cutaneous sensibility testing result comparison diagram in the embodiment of the present invention (carries out White Rabbit
Sensitivity Detection);
Fig. 5 is that golden cicada anther cosmetic tests schematic diagram to human skin sensibility patch.
Specific implementation mode
Embodiment 1, a kind of golden cicada spend skin whitening, moisturizing medicine cosmetic, follow the steps below successively:
One, the preparation of golden cicada flower extracting solution:
1), pre-treatment:
A. golden cicada spends ingredient requirement:
Annual six July is the Best Times that golden cicada spends unearthed season, and harvesting golden cicada is spent, and harvesting carries spore
The golden cicada of powder spends complete stool;
B. it sterilizes:
Golden cicada is first spent wash clean, preferably shell above is peeled off, ultraviolet sterilization 10min, (45 DEG C low for low temperature drying
Warm heated-air drying is about for 24 hours);Golden cicada flower raw material (moisture content≤10%) must be dried;
C. it crushes:
It spends raw material to crush dry golden cicada at normal temperatures, obtains the coarse powder that granularity is 60 mesh;Then ultramicro grinding skill is used
Art carries out fine crushing and obtains the fine powder of grain size≤25 micron to 500 mesh sieve, sieving is crossed.
2) it, extracts:
By 50% (volume %) alcohol and fine powder (the golden cicada pollen end of fine crushing), solid-to-liquid ratio is 1g/6~8ml,
It is extracted 30 minutes at room temperature using green ultrasonic (frequency of 60kHz), obtains golden cicada flower extract liquor.
3) it, filters:
Golden cicada flower extract liquor is filtered by vacuum, Rotary Evaporators concentration (50 DEG C, the 1/3 of concentration most original volume)
Leaching liquor is spent to golden cicada.
4), refined filtration:
Golden cicada obtained by step 3) is spent into leaching liquor, further across millipore filter (pore size filter be 0.22 micron) into
Row fine filtering obtains golden cicada flower extracting solution (golden cicada flower effective active composition).
Specially:Feed pipe is put to coarse filtration liquid, high speed tube centrifuge (rotating speed 15000r/min) and compacted is started
Dynamic pump sets the rotating speed of peristaltic pump as 150~250r/min, starts centrifugal filtration to new liquid medicine storage tank;Filter uses
Total closed type filters, and whole process all completes in body, and to environment without pollution-free, filtering uses micropore filter element, filter core that can weigh
Multiple to use, the dry deslagging of filter residue may be implemented in filter, and entire filter process can realize full-automatic operation;After refined filtration
To filtrate be golden cicada spend extracting solution (the golden cicada flower effective active composition) golden cicada spend extracting solution in contain polysaccharide, protein, ammonia
Base acid, cordycepin, ucleosides, cordycepic acid, superoxide dismutase SOD, vitamins and calcium, iron, phosphorus, selenium and other trace elements etc.
Effective active composition.
Two, it emulsifies:
Formula is as described in Table 3.
Table 3, golden cicada flower face cream medicine cosmetic basic recipe (W/W, %)
According to the golden cicada anther cosmetic basic recipe of table 3, A phase raw materials are heated to 85 DEG C, it is (extremely complete to be stirred until homogeneous mixing
Fully dissolved);B phase raw materials are heated to 85 DEG C, middling speed uniform stirring (100r/min, 20min) is then quickly adding into above-mentioned A
In phase raw material, homogenizer insulated and stirred 15min is cooled to 60 DEG C, continuously adds C phase raw materials, and homogenizer high-speed heat insulation stirs immediately
(600r/min) 10min is mixed to uniform;It waits for that temperature is down to 35 DEG C of addition E phase raw materials, stirs homogeneous.
There is no the 50r/min rotating speeds that the stirring clearly informed refers in the present invention.
Three, filling and package:
It is 5.5~6.2 by the emulsion malic acid tune pH value obtained by step 2, pilot batch 1Kg/ batches, vacuum filling,
Obtain golden cicada anther cosmetic (golden cicada spends skin whitening, moisturizing medicine cosmetic).
Every detection result of the golden cicada anther cosmetic is as follows:
1. whitening effect
After the cream 6 months, colour difference meter detection uses front and back change of skin, as a result, it has been found that compared with the control, using
Cream makes wrinkle unfold, and skin whitening effects improve.
2. tyrosinase inhibitory activity
It is 53.7% to tyrosinase inhibition rate as golden cicada a concentration of 5.0mg/mL of anther adornment;When golden cicada anther adornment concentration
It is 72.5% to tyrosinase inhibition rate for 10mg/mL;As golden cicada a concentration of 20mg/mL of anther adornment, to tyrosinase inhibition rate
It is 84.2%, as can be seen from the above results, with the increasing of golden cicada anther adornment concentration, the activity of tyrosinase is inhibited to get over
By force.
Remarks explanation:A concentration of 5.0mg/mL of golden cicada anther adornment refers to 5.0mg golden cicadas flower skin whitening, moisturizing medicine cosmetic is (real
Example 1 is applied to be prepared) be added 1mL deionized waters be diluted gained;Remaining and so on.
3. being retained humectant properties research
The effect that golden cicada anther adornment immortalizes people epidermal cell (HaCat) is investigated, is spent with Western blot golden cicada
Front and back skin aquaporin -3 (AQP-3) variation of medicine adornment effect.Human body immortalizes epidermis and forms cell Hacat for studying people
The expression of body skin aquaporin, aquaporin size are about 28kDa, to the aquaporin AQP-3 of epidermal cell into
Row Western blotting analyses pass through SDS-PAGE polyacrylate hydrogel electrophoresis, analysis using β-actin as internal reference (control)
Adjustment effect of the golden cicada anther cosmetic to aquaporin.
From figure 3, it can be seen that the golden cicada anther adornment of various concentration make employment immortalize epidermal cell (HaCat) the result shows that
Golden cicada anther adornment can promote the expression of aquaporin -3 (AQP-3) level well, thus from molecular biology angle explanation
Golden cicada anther adornment has water conservation moisture-keeping function.
4, the golden cicada anther cosmetic of 1 gained of above-described embodiment is detected according to above-mentioned safety evaluatio, acquired results
It is as follows:
Fig. 4,5 be that golden cicada anther cosmetic cutaneous sensibility detects in the embodiment of the present invention, and White Rabbit and human body are carried out to it
Skin patch is test, the results showed that does not cause any stimulate the reaction.The golden cicada anther adornment can be obtained by this test result
The safety of product is all very high, does not cause adverse reaction to human skin.Specific data are as described in Table 4.
Table 4, golden cicada anther cosmetic test White Rabbit cutaneous sensibility
PDII (the skin irritation index)=rabbit average mark of erythema average mark+3
Human skin patch does not cause any stimulate the reaction the result shows that after cream effect.It can by this test result
Safety to obtain the medicine cosmetic is all very high, does not cause adverse reaction to human skin.
5, the golden cicada anther cosmetic of 1 gained of above-described embodiment is subjected to following quality testing:
(1) Micro biological Tests
Agarose media is carried out to golden cicada anther cosmetic and examines microbial contamination, as a result shows bacterium, mould and yeast
Bacterium sum is < 103Cfu/mL does not detect Escherichia coli, staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, it was demonstrated that cream has preferably
Anti-corrosion effect, can use safely, microorganism infection will not be caused to human body.
(2) rheology detects
During hot SAPMAC method, good physics and chemical stability are shown, lotion exquisiteness, uniformity, without discoloration
Occur.Centrifugation occurs without layering, coarse phenomenon.
The product of the present invention is learnt according to above-mentioned detection method:Whitening of the present invention, water conservation moistening effect are apparent, and the present invention is tight
Lattice carry out safety evaluatio and matter according to the requirement of every Testing index as defined in international medicine cosmetic standard to golden cicada anther cosmetic
Amount detection, microbial contamination detection meet international medicine cosmetic standard.
2~embodiment of embodiment 7, the content (being described in table 5 below) for changing every ingredient in embodiment 1, remaining is equal to
Embodiment 1.
Table 5
As golden cicada a concentration of 20mg/mL of anther adornment, 1~embodiment of embodiment 7 to tyrosinase inhibition rate such as the following table 6 institute
It states.
Table 6
To tyrosinase inhibition rate | To tyrosinase inhibition rate | ||
Embodiment 1 | 84.2% | Embodiment 5 | 72.5% |
Embodiment 2 | 43.8% | Embodiment 6 | 76.6% |
Embodiment 3 | 54.9% | Embodiment 7 | 84.1% |
Embodiment 4 | 61.4% |
Comparative example 1-1, B phase raw materials will be heated to " 85 DEG C " in embodiment 1 and makes " 100 DEG C " into, remaining is equal to reality
Apply example 1.
Comparative example 1-2, B phase raw materials will be heated to " 85 DEG C " in embodiment 1 and makes " 70 DEG C " into, remaining is equal to implementation
Example 1.
" emulsification " of 1 step 2 of embodiment is made into following content by comparative example 2:After all the components in table 3 are mixed,
30min is stirred with homogenizer high speed (600r/min).Remaining is equal to embodiment 1.
Comparative example 3, with embodiment 1 " golden cicada spend on leaching liquor " obtained by the filtration step replacement " golden cicada obtained by refined filtration step
Flower extracting solution " spends active constituent as golden cicada;Remaining is equal to embodiment 1.
As golden cicada a concentration of 20mg/mL of anther adornment, above-mentioned comparative example is described in table 7 below tyrosinase inhibition rate.
Table 7
To tyrosinase inhibition rate | |
Comparative example 1-1 | 76.5% |
Comparative example 1-2 | 81.7% |
Comparative example 2 | 78.4% |
Comparative example 3 | 76.7% |
Finally, it should also be noted that it is listed above be only the present invention several specific embodiments.Obviously, this hair
Bright to be not limited to above example, acceptable there are many deformations.Those skilled in the art can be from present disclosure
All deformations for directly exporting or associating, are considered as protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (2)
1. golden cicada spends skin whitening, moisturizing medicine cosmetic, it is characterized in that the golden cicada anther cosmetic by following mass content at being grouped as:
Golden cicada spends extracting solution 8%, apricot kernel oil 4%, tea-seed oil 2%, the EDTA solution 0.05% that mass concentration is 0.1%, oat
Beta glucan 3.0%, Sepigel 305 5%, card wave 940 0.5%, attar of rose 1%, glycerine 5.0%, deionized water are remaining
Amount;
The preparation method of golden cicada flower extracting solution is to include the following steps:
1), pre-treatment:
A. golden cicada spends ingredient requirement:
Annual six July, golden cicada of the harvesting with conidia powder spend complete stool;
B. it sterilizes:
First wash clean, ultraviolet sterilization, low temperature drying is spent to obtain dry golden cicada flower raw material until moisture content≤10% golden cicada;
C. it crushes:
It first spends raw material to be crushed to 60 mesh sieve dry golden cicada, superfine communication technique is then used to carry out fine crushing to crossing 500
Mesh sieves, and obtains fine powder;
2) it, extracts:
By 50% alcohol of volumetric concentration and fine powder, it is 1g/6~8ml according to solid-to-liquid ratio, uses ultrasonic extraction at room temperature
0.5~1 hour, obtain golden cicada flower extract liquor;
3) it, filters:
Golden cicada flower extract liquor is filtered by vacuum, the 1/3 of Rotary Evaporators concentration most original volume, obtains golden cicada flower extraction
Liquid;
4), refined filtration:
Golden cicada obtained by step 3) is spent into leaching liquor, fine filtering is carried out further across millipore filter, obtains golden cicada flower extraction
Liquid.
2. the preparation method of golden cicada flower skin whitening, moisturizing medicine cosmetic as described in claim 1, it is characterized in that including the following steps:
One, it emulsifies:
A phase raw materials are constituted by deionized water, glycerine, the EDTA solution that mass concentration is 0.1%, avenabeta glucosan, with apricot
Benevolence oil, tea-seed oil are B phase raw materials, and with Sepigel 305 for C phase raw materials, D phase originals are constituted by golden cicada flower extracting solution, card wave 940
Material, with attar of rose for E phase raw materials;
A phase raw materials are heated to 80~90 DEG C, are stirred until homogeneous mixing;
B phase raw materials are heated to 80~90 DEG C, moderate-speed mixer is then quickly adding into above-mentioned mixed uniformly A to uniform mixing
In phase raw material, after 10~20min of homogenizer insulated and stirred, it is cooled to 55~65 DEG C;Continuously add C phase raw materials, homogenizer high speed
Insulated and stirred is mixed to uniform;Wait for that temperature is down to 30~40 DEG C of addition E phase raw materials, uniform stirring mixing;
Two, filling and package:
It is 5.5~6.2 that emulsion obtained by step 1, which is adjusted pH value, vacuum filling, obtains golden cicada flower skin whitening, moisturizing medicine cosmetic.
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CN109288738A (en) * | 2018-11-29 | 2019-02-01 | 福建天眼视界健康科技有限公司 | A kind of eyeshield composition and its eye patch and preparation method |
CN110200841A (en) * | 2019-05-23 | 2019-09-06 | 江苏农林职业技术学院 | A kind of cicada fungus tremella face mask liquid and preparation method thereof |
CN114057906B (en) * | 2021-12-16 | 2022-09-06 | 浙江省亚热带作物研究所 | Separation and purification method of cordyceps sobolifera polysaccharide with anti-radiation effect |
CN115068377A (en) * | 2022-06-08 | 2022-09-20 | 上海应用技术大学 | Application of cordyceps sobolifera extract in promoting synthesis of hyaluronic acid by fibroblasts |
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CN104771349A (en) * | 2015-03-09 | 2015-07-15 | 胡建华 | Skin care product containing plant extract and preparation method thereof |
CN105078876A (en) * | 2015-09-17 | 2015-11-25 | 成都朴锐生物科技有限公司 | cordyceps sobolifera skin care composition and preparation method thereof |
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CN104771349A (en) * | 2015-03-09 | 2015-07-15 | 胡建华 | Skin care product containing plant extract and preparation method thereof |
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