CN105544057A - Preparing technology for mohair and silk tweed easy to care - Google Patents
Preparing technology for mohair and silk tweed easy to care Download PDFInfo
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- CN105544057A CN105544057A CN201610107143.1A CN201610107143A CN105544057A CN 105544057 A CN105544057 A CN 105544057A CN 201610107143 A CN201610107143 A CN 201610107143A CN 105544057 A CN105544057 A CN 105544057A
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- 210000000050 mohair Anatomy 0.000 title claims abstract description 67
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 23
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 27
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 238000011001 backwashing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 238000010025 steaming Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 29
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims description 27
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims description 21
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims description 18
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 17
- 239000012752 auxiliary agent Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silver Chemical compound [Ag] BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 230000000996 additive effect Effects 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000000314 lubricant Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 229910052709 silver Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000004332 silver Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 238000010792 warming Methods 0.000 claims description 10
- 240000003186 Stachytarpheta cayennensis Species 0.000 claims description 8
- 235000009233 Stachytarpheta cayennensis Nutrition 0.000 claims description 8
- 241000233855 Orchidaceae Species 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000014676 Phragmites communis Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000005021 gait Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000008439 repair process Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000004018 waxing Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000010008 shearing Methods 0.000 abstract description 4
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 abstract description 4
- 230000001680 brushing effect Effects 0.000 abstract 2
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 abstract 2
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 abstract 2
- 230000003750 conditioning effect Effects 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000010026 decatizing Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000009999 singeing Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 230000016776 visual perception Effects 0.000 abstract 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 7
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 6
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000006073 displacement reaction Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 4
- 244000048199 Hibiscus mutabilis Species 0.000 description 3
- 206010048232 Yawning Diseases 0.000 description 3
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000000295 fuel oil Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000012535 impurity Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000007689 inspection Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000009950 felting Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 241000554155 Andes Species 0.000 description 1
- 241000283707 Capra Species 0.000 description 1
- 208000032170 Congenital Abnormalities Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 230000007698 birth defect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007812 deficiency Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000009466 transformation Effects 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C9/00—Singeing
- D06C9/02—Singeing by flame
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
- D06P1/445—Use of auxiliary substances before, during or after dyeing or printing
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/02—Material containing basic nitrogen
- D06P3/04—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
- D06P3/14—Wool
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/04—Silk
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to a preparing technology for mohair and silk tweed easy to care. The preparing technology is characterized by including the following technology steps that 1, 65-67% of Australasian wool, 25-27.5% of mohair and silk and 5.5-10% of silk are dyed, and back washing, sliver mixing, gilling, combing and gilling are carried out to obtain finished product slivers; 2, the Australasian wool, mohair and silk finished product slivers obtained in the step 1 are mixed, first-time gilling, second-time gilling, third-time gilling, fourth-time gilling, treatment in a roving frame, treatment in a spinning frame, automatic spooling, doubling and double-twisting are carried out to obtain yarn, and finally the yarn is steamed; 3, warping, drafting, denting and weaving are conducted on the yarn obtained in the step 2 to obtain gray fabric; 4, open-width scouring, drying, brushing, singeing, open-width scouring, drying, after finishing, brushing, shearing, conditioning , high-pressure steaming, full decatizing and preshrinking are carried out on the gray fabric obtained in the step 3 to obtain a finished product. Mohair and silk are combined together, and the mohair and silk tweed has good wearability and good visual perception.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of preparation technology of hair, the preparation technology of fancy suiting easily nursed by especially a kind of mohair real silk.
Background technology
Current, consumer just silently experiencings and changes from luxury goods to the consumption of personalized luxury goods, this transformation is mainly reflected in apparel industry, the clothes of high-end, fit, the fashion of a set of embodiment self individual character grade can be had, progressively be subject to the pursuit of middle and high end income personage, also inevitable trend and trend will be become, and this wherein to the exploitation of fabric, higher requirement must be proposed.For the consumption concept that this is new, cater to consumer psychology to meet the need of market, make successfully man enjoy the quality of high-end luxury, we have selected the real silk of elegant and the rare mohair of preciousness as raw material.Adopt advanced superior production process, the mohair real silk that in time have developed dress applicable spring and summer easily nurses fabric, and it had both been applicable to the first-selection that western-stype clothes suit is also Dan Xi and trousering, improved the quality of senior men's clothing, had expanded men's clothing high-end market.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to overcome the deficiencies in the prior art, a kind of mohair real silk is provided easily to nurse the preparation technology of fancy suiting, this mohair real silk is easily nursed fancy suiting and mohair and real silk is combined, and imparts the wearability of product fine and good visual experience.
According to technical scheme provided by the invention, the preparation technology of fancy suiting easily nursed by a kind of mohair real silk, it is characterized in that, comprises following processing step:
(1), after Australia's hair of 65 ~ 67%, 25 ~ 27.5% mohair and 5.5 ~ 10% real silks being dyeed respectively, finished product bar is obtained through after backwashing, silver mixing, grilling, combing, grilling;
(2), after the finished product bar of the Australia's hair, mohair and the real silk that step (1) are obtained carries out silver mixing, through slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, four road grillings, Speed frames, fine spining machine, obtain yarn from winder, doubling, double twisting, finally carry out yarn steaming;
(3) yarn step (2) obtained through warping, gait, plug in reed, weave and obtain grey cloth;
(4) grey cloth that step (3) obtained through flatly to boil, dry, bristle, singe, flatly to boil, dry, ripely to repair, bristle, cropping, dewing, high pressure steams, tank steams, preshrunk, obtains finished product.
In a detailed description of the invention, the average fineness of described Australia hair is 17.5 ~ 18 μm, and average length is 80 ~ 85mm; The average fineness of described mohair is 22 ~ 25 μm, and average length is 90 ~ 95mm.
In a detailed description of the invention, the warp count that fancy suiting finished product easily nursed by described mohair real silk is 412 ~ 414/10cm, and weft count is 300 ~ 302/10cm, and grammes per square metre is 220 ~ 225 grams/meter.
In a detailed description of the invention, the dyeing of described Australia hair and mohair is: 0.1 ~ 5%o.w.f orchid receives free and easy dyestuff, the blue TOP auxiliary agent of 1 ~ 2%o.w.f Miller, regulates Value in Dyeing Process 3 ~ 6, bath raio 1:10 ~ 20; Dyeing course is divided into two stages, and the first rank dye liquor heats up by 40 ~ 45 DEG C, and programming rate is 1 ~ 1.5 DEG C/min, is warming up to 70 ~ 75 DEG C, is incubated 15 ~ 20 minutes; Second stage, then be warming up to 90 ~ 95 DEG C with the programming rate of 1 ~ 1.5 DEG C/min, be incubated 40 ~ 45 minutes, cooling, adds 1 ~ 2g/L yarn wet waxing agent, is incubated 10 ~ 15 minutes when being cooled to 40 ~ 45 DEG C.
In a detailed description of the invention, adopt 3X-A wool lubricant and S-10 antistatic additive in described step (1) combing process, the mass ratio of 3X-A wool lubricant, S-10 antistatic additive and water is 1 ~ 1.2:1.2 ~ 1.5:8 ~ 10.
In a detailed description of the invention, drafting multiple during described fine spining machine step is 20 ~ 25 times.
In a detailed description of the invention, described from the winder step speed of a motor vehicle be 400 ~ 500 ms/min.
In a detailed description of the invention, in described weaving process, the speed of a motor vehicle of Rapier looms is 300 ~ 320 revs/min, and the back rest front and back position of Rapier looms is 105, be highly-1, menelipsis height is-2, and front and back position is 56cm, tension force is 200 ~ 220kg, and opening time is 315o.
In a detailed description of the invention, described in the speed of singing be 90 ~ 95 ms/min, a positive and a negative is singed, and burner distance is 4 ~ 5cm.
In a detailed description of the invention, described putting down boils process, and auxiliary agent adopts Angola 342, and speed is 50 ~ 70 ms/min, tension force 1 ~ 3bar.
The mohair real silk that the present invention obtains easily nurses fancy suiting, perform according to People's Republic of China (PRC) textile industry GB/T26382-2011 " combing worsted spinning " standard, all technical is tested through national textile product Quality Supervision and Inspection Center (Jiangyin) laboratory, reaches high-class product standard-required.Fancy suiting good hand feeling easily nursed by mohair real silk of the present invention, and wearability is excellent, is desirable single west and suit fabric, has higher economic value added and wide market prospects.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, the invention will be further described.
Mohair real silk easily nurses fancy suiting as the term suggests be mohair and the high-grade raw material of real silk two kinds are combined, and imparts the wearability of product fine and good visual experience.Mohair grows a kind of peculiar Goats Breeds produces on Andes, state, South America the rare wool of preciousness, and more general kind wool has the monopolizing characteristics such as fiber finer, intensity are high, felting, reflecting feel be not strong.Take mohair as raw material, the mohair plumetis of production can not produce because yarn displacement and wool scale mutually tangle and wrinkling occurs.Fabric face is smooth, and lines is clear, thin refreshing exquisiteness, and gloss is naturally soft, exterior quality elegant, and pendency sense is strong, and good permeability is comfortable and easy to wear, sparking flash of light.On this basis ultra-fine for the 16D of quality noble quality real silk is dissolved into and in the middle of mohair, has more highlighted the high-end, luxurious of this fabric and stylishness, be a collection high-end, luxurious with fashion, be comfortable to worsted fabric integrally.
The good characteristics such as fiber is long, intensity is high though mohair has, felting, gloss is not strong, also having that cohesive force is poor, wool top loose, sliding, spinnability is poor and the birth defect such as slub dyeing colouring rate variance, is all a great difficult problem to spinning and dyeing.For this situation, the present invention has formulated complete set technique, reaches expection requirement
Embodiment one: the preparation technology of fancy suiting easily nursed by a kind of mohair real silk, comprises following processing step:
(1), after Australia's hair of 65%, 25% mohair and 10% real silk being dyeed respectively, finished product bar is obtained through after backwashing, silver mixing, grilling, combing, grilling; The average fineness of described Australia hair is 17.5 μm, and average length is 80mm; The average fineness of described mohair is 22 μm, and average length is 90mm;
The dyeing of described Australia hair and mohair is: 0.1%o.w.f orchid receives free and easy dyestuff, the blue TOP auxiliary agent of 1%o.w.f Miller, regulates Value in Dyeing Process 3, bath raio 1:10; Dyeing course is divided into two stages, and the first rank dye liquor heats up by 40 DEG C, and programming rate is 1 DEG C/min, is warming up to 70 DEG C, is incubated 20 minutes; Second stage, then be warming up to 90 DEG C with the programming rate of 1 DEG C/min, be incubated 45 minutes, cooling, add 1g/L yarn wet waxing agent (liking cottonrose hibiscus wax) when being cooled to 40 DEG C, be incubated 15 minutes; The blue TOP auxiliary agent of Miller can prevent colouring too fast, enters to contaminate that temperature is too high causes damage to fiber;
Adopt 3X-A wool lubricant and S-10 antistatic additive in described combing process, the mass ratio of 3X-A wool lubricant, S-10 antistatic additive and water is 1:1.2:8;
(2), after the finished product bar of the Australia's hair, mohair and the real silk that step (1) are obtained carries out silver mixing, through slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, four road grillings, Speed frames, fine spining machine, obtain yarn from winder, doubling, double twisting, finally carry out yarn steaming;
Described rove step is produced on Speed frames, and rove is heavily 0.16g/m surely, both looks after spinning-drafting, ensures rove unwinding again, prevents unexpected stretching oneself and yawn, causes evenness fault;
Described fine spining machine step is produced on four roller fine spining machines, and drafting multiple is 20 times, close setting, reduces yarn card nailing neps, filoplume, improves yarn qualities;
In order to reduce mohair Yarn filoplume, adopting the reduction speed of a motor vehicle and adjustment unwinding tension to solve from winder step, the speed of a motor vehicle controls at 400 ms/min;
Described doubling step need keep doubling passage Glabrous to sting, and simultaneously to heavy oil on yarn, is strictly on guard against that real silk abrades, avoids handle yarn, strengthens board inspection, stops scarce stock yarn and produces;
(3) yarn step (2) obtained through warping, gait, plug in reed, weave and obtain grey cloth;
Cause warp end break to increase for being strictly on guard against that real silk yarn abrades when weaving, to liquid wax on yarn during warping, protection real silk increases yarn strength simultaneously, improves weaving efficiency;
In described weaving process, the speed of a motor vehicle of Rapier looms suitably reduces, and is 300 revs/min, thus avoids broken end serious, and weaving efficiency increases on the contrary; Regulate the tension piece of weft accumulator, stablize weft tension, latitude bow yarn defect obviously declines, and reduces to 3/by original 15/; The back rest front and back position of Rapier looms is 105, is highly-1, and menelipsis height is-2, and front and back position is 56cm, and tension force is 200kg, and opening time is 315o;
(4) grey cloth that step (3) obtained through flatly to boil, dry, bristle, singe, flatly to boil, dry, ripely to repair, bristle, cropping, dewing, high pressure steams, tank steams, preshrunk, obtains finished product; The warp count that fancy suiting finished product easily nursed by described mohair real silk is 412/10cm, and weft count is 300/10cm, and grammes per square metre is 220 grams/meter;
Described speed of singing is 90 ms/min, and a positive and a negative is singed, and burner distance is 4cm;
The described flat auxiliary agent boiling process adopts Angola 342, and speed is 50 ms/min, and tension force 1bar ensure that yarn position not slippage, and fabric structure is stablized, and avoids washing at a high speed contracting because of rear road and produces face displacement; Once put down after high speed braying again and boil, object again rinses may be wrapped in residual impurity in cloth cover because washing contracting operation, also makes that face is more smooth is conducive to later process processing process;
Described bristle step adopts 2 positive 1 instead, in right amount jet;
The speed of described shearing step is 15 ms/min, adopts 4 positive 2 anti-;
The moisture regain of described dewing step is 8%, interval 1 hour;
It is operation very important in postfinishing process that described tank steams step, because the more general wool fibre of mohair fiber is thick and stiff, very large on fabric feeling impact; Use tank to steam technique, by pressure, steam improves the feel of fabric and inherent quality from inside to outside, effectively ensure that quality and the finished product style of product.
The mohair real silk that the present invention obtains easily nurses fancy suiting, perform according to People's Republic of China (PRC) textile industry GB/T26382-2011 " combing worsted spinning " standard, all technical is tested through national textile product Quality Supervision and Inspection Center (Jiangyin) laboratory, reaches high-class product standard-required.Fancy suiting good hand feeling easily nursed by mohair real silk of the present invention, and wearability is excellent, is desirable single west and suit fabric, has higher economic value added and wide market prospects.
Embodiment two: the preparation technology of fancy suiting easily nursed by a kind of mohair real silk, comprises following processing step:
(1), after Australia's hair of 67%, 27.5% mohair and 5.5% real silk being dyeed respectively, finished product bar is obtained through after backwashing, silver mixing, grilling, combing, grilling; The average fineness of described Australia hair is 17.5 μm, and average length is 85mm; The average fineness of described mohair is 25 μm, and average length is 95mm;
The dyeing of described Australia hair and mohair is: 5%o.w.f orchid receives free and easy dyestuff, the blue TOP auxiliary agent of 2%o.w.f Miller, regulates Value in Dyeing Process 6, bath raio 1:20; Dyeing course is divided into two stages, and the first rank dye liquor heats up by 45 DEG C, and programming rate is 1.5 DEG C/min, is warming up to 75 DEG C, is incubated 15 minutes; Second stage, then be warming up to 95 DEG C with the programming rate of 1.5 DEG C/min, be incubated 40 minutes, cooling, add 2g/L yarn wet waxing agent (liking cottonrose hibiscus wax) when being cooled to 40 DEG C, be incubated 10 minutes; The blue TOP auxiliary agent of Miller can prevent colouring too fast, enters to contaminate that temperature is too high causes damage to fiber;
Adopt 3X-A wool lubricant and S-10 antistatic additive in described combing process, the mass ratio of 3X-A wool lubricant, S-10 antistatic additive and water is 1.2:1.5:10;
(2), after the finished product bar of the Australia's hair, mohair and the real silk that step (1) are obtained carries out silver mixing, through slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, four road grillings, Speed frames, fine spining machine, obtain yarn from winder, doubling, double twisting, finally carry out yarn steaming;
Described rove step is produced on Speed frames, and rove is heavily 0.17g/m surely, both looks after spinning-drafting, ensures rove unwinding again, prevents unexpected stretching oneself and yawn, causes evenness fault;
Described fine spining machine step is produced on four roller fine spining machines, and drafting multiple is 25 times, close setting, reduces yarn card nailing neps, filoplume, improves yarn qualities;
In order to reduce mohair Yarn filoplume, adopting the reduction speed of a motor vehicle and adjustment unwinding tension to solve from winder step, the speed of a motor vehicle controls at 500 ms/min;
Described doubling step need keep doubling passage Glabrous to sting, and simultaneously to heavy oil on yarn, is strictly on guard against that real silk abrades, avoids handle yarn, strengthens board inspection, stops scarce stock yarn and produces;
(3) yarn step (2) obtained through warping, gait, plug in reed, weave and obtain grey cloth;
Cause warp end break to increase for being strictly on guard against that real silk yarn abrades when weaving, to liquid wax on yarn during warping, protection real silk increases yarn strength simultaneously, improves weaving efficiency;
In described weaving process, the speed of a motor vehicle of Rapier looms suitably reduces, and is 320 revs/min, thus avoids broken end serious, and weaving efficiency increases on the contrary; Regulate the tension piece of weft accumulator, stablize weft tension, latitude bow yarn defect obviously declines, and reduces to 3/by original 15/; The back rest front and back position of Rapier looms is 105, is highly-1, and menelipsis height is-2, and front and back position is 56cm, and tension force is 220kg, and opening time is 315o;
(4) grey cloth that step (3) obtained through flatly to boil, dry, bristle, singe, flatly to boil, dry, ripely to repair, bristle, cropping, dewing, high pressure steams, tank steams, preshrunk, obtains finished product; The warp count that fancy suiting finished product easily nursed by described mohair real silk is 414/10cm, and weft count is 302/10cm, and grammes per square metre is 225 grams/meter;
Described speed of singing is 95 ms/min, and a positive and a negative is singed, and burner distance is 5cm;
The described flat auxiliary agent boiling process adopts Angola 342, and speed is 70 ms/min, and tension force 3bar ensure that yarn position not slippage, and fabric structure is stablized, and avoids washing at a high speed contracting because of rear road and produces face displacement; Once put down after high speed braying again and boil, object again rinses may be wrapped in residual impurity in cloth cover because washing contracting operation, also makes that face is more smooth is conducive to later process processing process;
Described bristle step adopts 2 positive 1 instead, in right amount jet;
The speed of described shearing step is 15 ms/min, adopts 4 positive 2 anti-;
The moisture regain of described dewing step is 10%, interval 2 hours.
Embodiment three: the preparation technology of fancy suiting easily nursed by a kind of mohair real silk, comprises following processing step:
(1), after Australia's hair of 66%, 26% mohair and 8% real silk being dyeed respectively, finished product bar is obtained through after backwashing, silver mixing, grilling, combing, grilling; The average fineness of described Australia hair is 17.6 μm, and average length is 82mm; The average fineness of described mohair is 24 μm, and average length is 92mm;
The dyeing of described Australia hair and mohair is: 1%o.w.f orchid receives free and easy dyestuff, the blue TOP auxiliary agent of 1.5%o.w.f Miller, regulates Value in Dyeing Process 4, bath raio 1:15; Dyeing course is divided into two stages, and the first rank dye liquor heats up by 42 DEG C, and programming rate is 1.2 DEG C/min, is warming up to 72 DEG C, is incubated 16 minutes; Second stage, then be warming up to 92 DEG C with the programming rate of 1.2 DEG C/min, be incubated 42 minutes, cooling, add 1.5g/L yarn wet waxing agent (liking cottonrose hibiscus wax) when being cooled to 42 DEG C, be incubated 12 minutes; The blue TOP auxiliary agent of Miller can prevent colouring too fast, enters to contaminate that temperature is too high causes damage to fiber;
Adopt 3X-A wool lubricant and S-10 antistatic additive in described combing process, the mass ratio of 3X-A wool lubricant, S-10 antistatic additive and water is 1.1:1.4:9;
(2), after the finished product bar of the Australia's hair, mohair and the real silk that step (1) are obtained carries out silver mixing, through slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, four road grillings, Speed frames, fine spining machine, obtain yarn from winder, doubling, double twisting, finally carry out yarn steaming;
Described rove step is produced on Speed frames, and rove is heavily 0.16g/m surely, both looks after spinning-drafting, ensures rove unwinding again, prevents unexpected stretching oneself and yawn, causes evenness fault;
Described fine spining machine step is produced on four roller fine spining machines, and drafting multiple is 22 times, close setting, reduces yarn card nailing neps, filoplume, improves yarn qualities;
In order to reduce mohair Yarn filoplume, adopting the reduction speed of a motor vehicle and adjustment unwinding tension to solve from winder step, the speed of a motor vehicle controls at 450 ms/min;
Described doubling step need keep doubling passage Glabrous to sting, and simultaneously to heavy oil on yarn, is strictly on guard against that real silk abrades, avoids handle yarn, strengthens board inspection, stops scarce stock yarn and produces;
(3) yarn step (2) obtained through warping, gait, plug in reed, weave and obtain grey cloth;
Cause warp end break to increase for being strictly on guard against that real silk yarn abrades when weaving, to liquid wax on yarn during warping, protection real silk increases yarn strength simultaneously, improves weaving efficiency;
In described weaving process, the speed of a motor vehicle of Rapier looms suitably reduces, and is 310 revs/min, thus avoids broken end serious, and weaving efficiency increases on the contrary; Regulate the tension piece of weft accumulator, stablize weft tension, latitude bow yarn defect obviously declines, and reduces to 3/by original 15/; The back rest front and back position of Rapier looms is 105, is highly-1, and menelipsis height is-2, and front and back position is 56cm, and tension force is 210kg, and opening time is 315o;
(4) grey cloth that step (3) obtained through flatly to boil, dry, bristle, singe, flatly to boil, dry, ripely to repair, bristle, cropping, dewing, high pressure steams, tank steams, preshrunk, obtains finished product; The warp count that fancy suiting finished product easily nursed by described mohair real silk is 413/10cm, and weft count is 301/10cm, and grammes per square metre is 225 grams/meter;
Described speed of singing is 92 ms/min, and a positive and a negative is singed, and burner distance is 4.5cm;
The described flat auxiliary agent boiling process adopts Angola 342, and speed is 60 ms/min, and tension force 2bar ensure that yarn position not slippage, and fabric structure is stablized, and avoids washing at a high speed contracting because of rear road and produces face displacement; Once put down after high speed braying again and boil, object again rinses may be wrapped in residual impurity in cloth cover because washing contracting operation, also makes that face is more smooth is conducive to later process processing process;
Described bristle step adopts 2 positive 1 instead, in right amount jet;
The speed of described shearing step is 15 ms/min, adopts 4 positive 2 anti-;
The moisture regain of described dewing step is 9%, interval 1.5 hours.
Claims (10)
1. a preparation technology for fancy suiting easily nursed by mohair real silk, it is characterized in that, comprises following processing step:
(1), after Australia's hair of 65 ~ 67%, 25 ~ 27.5% mohair and 5.5 ~ 10% real silks being dyeed respectively, finished product bar is obtained through after backwashing, silver mixing, grilling, combing, grilling;
(2), after the finished product bar of the Australia's hair, mohair and the real silk that step (1) are obtained carries out silver mixing, through slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, four road grillings, Speed frames, fine spining machine, obtain yarn from winder, doubling, double twisting, finally carry out yarn steaming;
(3) yarn step (2) obtained through warping, gait, plug in reed, weave and obtain grey cloth;
(4) grey cloth that step (3) obtained through flatly to boil, dry, bristle, singe, flatly to boil, dry, ripely to repair, bristle, cropping, dewing, high pressure steams, tank steams, preshrunk, obtains finished product.
2. the preparation technology of fancy suiting easily nursed by mohair real silk as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: the average fineness of described Australia hair is 17.5 ~ 18 μm, and average length is 80 ~ 85mm; The average fineness of described mohair is 22 ~ 25 μm, and average length is 90 ~ 95mm.
3. the preparation technology of fancy suiting easily nursed by mohair real silk as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: the warp count that fancy suiting finished product easily nursed by described mohair real silk is 412 ~ 414/10cm, weft count is 300 ~ 302/10cm, and grammes per square metre is 220 ~ 225 grams/meter.
4. the preparation technology of fancy suiting easily nursed by mohair real silk as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: the dyeing of described Australia hair and mohair is: 0.1 ~ 5%o.w.f orchid receives free and easy dyestuff, the blue TOP auxiliary agent of 1 ~ 2%o.w.f Miller, regulate Value in Dyeing Process 3 ~ 6, bath raio 1:10 ~ 20; Dyeing course is divided into two stages, and the first rank dye liquor heats up by 40 ~ 45 DEG C, and programming rate is 1 ~ 1.5 DEG C/min, is warming up to 70 ~ 75 DEG C, is incubated 15 ~ 20 minutes; Second stage, then be warming up to 90 ~ 95 DEG C with the programming rate of 1 ~ 1.5 DEG C/min, be incubated 40 ~ 45 minutes, cooling, adds 1 ~ 2g/L yarn wet waxing agent, is incubated 10 ~ 15 minutes when being cooled to 40 ~ 45 DEG C.
5. the preparation technology of fancy suiting easily nursed by mohair real silk as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: adopt 3X-A wool lubricant and S-10 antistatic additive in described step (1) combing process, the mass ratio of 3X-A wool lubricant, S-10 antistatic additive and water is 1 ~ 1.2:1.2 ~ 1.5:8 ~ 10.
6. the preparation technology of fancy suiting easily nursed by mohair real silk as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: drafting multiple during described fine spining machine step is 20 ~ 25 times.
7. the preparation technology of fancy suiting easily nursed by mohair real silk as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: described from the winder step speed of a motor vehicle be 400 ~ 500 ms/min.
8. the preparation technology of fancy suiting easily nursed by mohair real silk as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: in described weaving process, the speed of a motor vehicle of Rapier looms is 300 ~ 320 revs/min, the back rest front and back position of Rapier looms is 105, be highly-1, menelipsis height is-2, front and back position is 56cm, and tension force is 200 ~ 220kg, and opening time is 315o.
9. the preparation technology of fancy suiting easily nursed by mohair real silk as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: described in the speed of singing be 90 ~ 95 ms/min, a positive and a negative is singed, and burner distance is 4 ~ 5cm.
10. the preparation technology of fancy suiting easily nursed by mohair real silk as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: described putting down boils process, and auxiliary agent adopts Angola 342, and speed is 50 ~ 70 ms/min, tension force 1 ~ 3bar.
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| CN109881405A (en) * | 2019-03-28 | 2019-06-14 | 安徽明华纺织科技有限公司 | A kind of gauze textile technology |
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