CN105544057B - Mohair yarn silk easily nurses the preparation technology of fancy suiting - Google Patents

Mohair yarn silk easily nurses the preparation technology of fancy suiting Download PDF

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Publication number
CN105544057B
CN105544057B CN201610107143.1A CN201610107143A CN105544057B CN 105544057 B CN105544057 B CN 105544057B CN 201610107143 A CN201610107143 A CN 201610107143A CN 105544057 B CN105544057 B CN 105544057B
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yarn
silk
mohair
mohair yarn
finished
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CN105544057A (en
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顾士清
朱庆燕
雷芳伟
张雷锋
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JIANGSU NIJIAXIANG GROUP WORSTED TEXTILE Co.,Ltd.
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JIANGSU NIJIAXIANG GROUP WORSTED TEXTILE CO Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C9/00Singeing
    • D06C9/02Singeing by flame
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/445Use of auxiliary substances before, during or after dyeing or printing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • D06P3/14Wool
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02Wool
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04Silk

Abstract

The present invention relates to the preparation technology that a kind of mohair yarn silk easily nurses fancy suiting, it is characterized in that, comprise the following steps that:(1)After 65~67% Australia's hair, 25~27.5% mohair yarn and 5.5~10% silks are dyed respectively, finished product bar is obtained through after backwashing, silver mixing, grilling, combing, grilling;(2)By step(1)Obtained Australia's hair, the finished product bar of mohair yarn and silk is carried out after silver mixing, through slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, four road grillings, fly frame, spinning frame, from winder, doubling, double twisting is obtained yarn, is finally carried out yarn steaming;(3)By step(2)Obtained yarn through warping, gait, plug in reed, weaving obtain fabric;(4)By step(3)Obtained fabric through it is flat boil, dries, bristle, singe, it is flat boil, dries, it is ripe repair, bristle, cropping, dewing, high pressure steaming, tank steaming, preshrunk, obtain finished product.Mohair yarn and silk are combined together by the present invention, impart the wearability and good visual experience of product fine.

Description

Mohair yarn silk easily nurses the preparation technology of fancy suiting
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of preparation technology of hair, especially a kind of mohair yarn silk easily nurses the preparation work of fancy suiting Skill.
Background technology
Currently, consumer is just experiencing silently changes from luxury goods to the consumption of personalized luxury goods, and this transformation is main Be embodied in apparel industry, can possess it is a set of embodiment itself individual character grade high-end, fit, fashion clothes, progressively by The pursuit of personage is taken at middle and high end, also by trend and trend as certainty, and the exploitation necessarily to fabric is proposed more among these High requirement.For this new consumption concept, consumer psychology is catered in order to meet the market demand, man is enjoyed By high-end luxurious quality, we have selected the silk and precious rare mohair yarn of elegant as raw material.Using elder generation Enter superior production process, the mohair yarn silk that in time have developed suitable spring and summer dress easily nurses fabric, and it was both It is also the first choice of Dan Xi and trousering suitable for western-stype clothes suit, improves the quality of senior men's clothing, has expanded men's clothing high-end market.
The content of the invention
The purpose of the present invention overcomes the deficiencies in the prior art easily to nurse fancy suiting there is provided a kind of mohair yarn silk Preparation technology, the mohair yarn silk easily nurses fancy suiting and is combined together mohair yarn and silk, imparts taking for product fine Performance and good visual experience.
A kind of technical scheme provided according to the present invention, mohair yarn silk easily nurses the preparation technology of fancy suiting, it is characterized in that, Comprise the following steps that:
(1)After 65~67% Australia's hair, 25~27.5% mohair yarn and 5.5~10% silks are dyed respectively, through after backwashing, mix Bar, grilling, combing, grilling obtain finished product bar;
(2)By step(1)The finished product bar of obtained Australia's hair, mohair yarn and silk is carried out after silver mixing, through slubbing grilling, two roads Grilling, three road grillings, four road grillings, fly frame, spinning frame, from winder, doubling, double twisting yarn is obtained, finally carry out yarn steaming;
(3)By step(2)Obtained yarn through warping, gait, plug in reed, weaving obtain fabric;
(4)By step(3)Obtained fabric through it is flat boil, dries, bristle, singe, put down boil, dry, it is ripe repair, bristle, cropping, Dewing, high pressure are steamed, tank steams, preshrunk, obtain finished product.
In a detailed embodiment, the average fineness of Australia hair is 17.5~18 μm, average length is 80~ 85mm;The average fineness of the mohair yarn is 22~25 μm, and average length is 90~95mm.
In a detailed embodiment, the warp count that the mohair yarn silk easily nurses fancy suiting finished product is 412~414 Root/10cm, weft count is 300~302/10cm, and grammes per square metre is 220~225 grams ms.
In a detailed embodiment, the dyeing of Australia's hair and mohair yarn is:0.1~5%o.w.f orchids, which receive, spills De- dyestuff, 1~2%o.w.f Millers orchid TOP auxiliary agents, adjust Value in Dyeing Process 3~6, bath raio 1:10~20;Dyeing course is divided into two Stage, the first rank dye liquor is started to warm up by 40~45 DEG C, and programming rate is 1~1.5 DEG C/min, is warming up to 70~75 DEG C, insulation 15~20 minutes;Second stage, then 90~95 DEG C are warming up to 1~1.5 DEG C/min of programming rate, 40~45 minutes are incubated, Cooling, adds the wet waxing agent of 1~2g/L yarns when being cooled to 40~45 DEG C, is incubated 10~15 minutes.
In a detailed embodiment, the step(1)It is antistatic using 3X-A and crude oil and S-10 in combing process The mass ratio of agent, 3X-A and crude oil, S-10 antistatic additive and water is 1~1.2:1.2~1.5:8~10.
In a detailed embodiment, the drafting multiple during spinning frame step is 20~25 times.
In a detailed embodiment, it is described from winder step speed be 400~500 ms/min.
In a detailed embodiment, the speed of rapier loom is 300~320 revs/min, sword in the weaving process The back rest front and back position of bar loom is 105, is highly -1, and menopause highly is -2, and front and back position is 56cm, tension force for 200~ 220kg, opening time is 315o.
In a detailed embodiment, the speed singed is 90~95 ms/min, and a positive and a negative is singed, burner Distance is 4~5cm.
In a detailed embodiment, it is described it is flat boil process, auxiliary agent uses Angola 342, speed for 50~70 meters/ Point, 1~3bar of tension force.
The mohair yarn silk that the present invention is obtained easily nurses fancy suiting, according to People's Republic of China (PRC) textile industry GB/T26382- 2011《Combing worsted spinning》Standard is performed, and all technical is through national textile product Quality Supervision and Inspection Center(Jiangyin)Experiment Room is tested, and reaches the requirement of high-class product standard.Mohair yarn silk of the present invention easily nurses fancy suiting good hand feeling, and wearability is excellent It is good, it is preferable single west and suit fabric, with higher economic value added and wide market prospects.
Embodiment
With reference to specific embodiment, the invention will be further described.
Mohair yarn silk easily nurses fancy suiting as the term suggests being organically to combine two kinds of high-grade raw materials of mohair yarn and silk Together, the wearability and good visual experience of product fine are imparted.Mohair yarn is to be grown in South America state Andes A kind of precious rare wool that peculiar Goats Breeds are produced on arteries and veins, more general kind wool has fiber finer, not intensity height, felt The monopolizing characteristic such as contracting, reflecting feel be strong.Using mohair yarn as raw material, the mohair yarn plumetis of production will not be produced because of yarn displacement and sheep Hair scale piece mutually tangles and occurs wrinkling.Fabric face is smooth, and lines is clear, and thin refreshing exquisiteness, gloss is naturally soft, outward appearance Quality elegant, pendency sense is strong, and good permeability is comfortable and easy to wear, sparking flash of light.On this basis by the noble 16D of quality Ultra-fine silk is dissolved into high-end, the luxurious and stylishness that the fabric has more been highlighted among mohair yarn, is the high-end, luxury of a collection With fashion, be comfortable to integral worsted fabric.
Though mohair yarn there are the good characteristics such as fiber length, intensity are high, felting, gloss is not strong, also there is that cohesive force is poor, wool top The birth defect such as scattered, sliding, spinnability difference and slub dyeing dye uptake difference, is all a great problem to spinning and dyeing.Pin To such case, the present invention has formulated complete set technique, has reached expected requirement
Embodiment one:A kind of mohair yarn silk easily nurses the preparation technology of fancy suiting, comprises the following steps that:
(1)After 65% Australia's hair, 25% mohair yarn and 10% silk are dyed respectively, through after backwashing, silver mixing, grilling, combing, pin It is combed to finished product bar;The average fineness of Australia's hair is 17.5 μm, and average length is 80mm;The average fineness of the mohair yarn is 22 μm, average length is 90mm;
The Australia mao and the dyeing of mohair yarn are:0.1%o.w.f orchids receive free and easy dyestuff, 1%o.w.f Millers orchid TOP and helped Agent, adjusts Value in Dyeing Process 3, bath raio 1:10;Dyeing course is divided into two stages, and the first rank dye liquor is started to warm up by 40 DEG C, heating Speed is 1 DEG C/min, is warming up to 70 DEG C, is incubated 20 minutes;Second stage, then it is warming up to 90 with 1 DEG C/min of programming rate DEG C, 45 minutes are incubated, cooling adds the wet waxing agent of 1g/L yarns when being cooled to 40 DEG C(Like cottonrose hibiscus wax), it is incubated 15 minutes;Miller is blue TOP auxiliary agents can prevent colouring it is too fast, enter to contaminate temperature it is too high to fiber cause damage;
Use 3X-A and crude oil and S-10 antistatic additive in the combing process, 3X-A and crude oil, S-10 antistatic additive and The mass ratio of water is 1: 1.2:8;
(2)By step(1)The finished product bar of obtained Australia's hair, mohair yarn and silk is carried out after silver mixing, through slubbing grilling, two roads Grilling, three road grillings, four road grillings, fly frame, spinning frame, from winder, doubling, double twisting yarn is obtained, finally carry out yarn steaming;
The rove step is produced on fly frame, and rove determines weight for 0.16g/m, both looks after spun yarn drafting, ensures thick again Yarn is unwind, and is prevented from surprisingly stretching oneself and yawn, is caused evenness fault;
The spinning frame step is produced on four roller spinning frames, and drafting multiple is 20 times, close setting, reduces yarn hair Grain, filoplume, improve yarn qualities;
In order to reduce mohair yarn Yarn filoplume, solved from winder step using reduction speed and adjustment unwinding tension, Speed is controlled at 400 ms/min;
The doubling step need to be kept and line passage Glabrous thorn, while to heavy oil on yarn, preventing that silk is abraded, keeping away Exempt from handle yarn, strengthen board inspection, prevent to lack stock yarn generation;
(3)By step(2)Obtained yarn through warping, gait, plug in reed, weaving obtain fabric;
To prevent that the scratch in weaving of silk yarn causes warp end break to increase, to liquid wax on yarn during warping, silk is protected Increase yarn strength simultaneously, improve weaving efficiency;
The speed of rapier loom is suitably reduced in the weaving process, is 300 revs/min, so as to avoid broken end serious, is knitted Efficiency is made to increase on the contrary;The tension piece of weft accumulator is adjusted, stable weft tension, latitude bow yarn defect is decreased obviously, by original 15/are reduced to 3/;The back rest front and back position of rapier loom is 105, is highly -1, and menopause is highly -2, anteroposterior position 56cm is set to, tension force is 200kg, and opening time is 315o;
(4)By step(3)Obtained fabric through it is flat boil, dries, bristle, singe, put down boil, dry, it is ripe repair, bristle, cropping, Dewing, high pressure are steamed, tank steams, preshrunk, obtain finished product;The mohair yarn silk easily nurse the warp count of fancy suiting finished product for 412/ 10cm, weft count is 300/10cm, and grammes per square metre is 220 grams ms;
The speed singed is 90 ms/min, and a positive and a negative is singed, and burner distance is 4cm;
The flat auxiliary agent for boiling process uses Angola 342, and speed is 50 ms/min, tension force 1bar, it is ensured that yarn position Do not slide, make fabric structure stable, it is to avoid wash contracting at a high speed because of rear road and produce face displacement;Carried out again after high speed braying Once put down and boil, it is therefore an objective to rinse again because washing the residual impurity that contracting process may be wrapped in cloth cover, also face is more put down It is whole to be conducive to later process working process;
The bristle step is anti-using 2 positive 1, appropriate jet;
The speed of the shearing step is 15 ms/min, anti-using 4 positive 2;
The moisture regain of the dewing step is 8%, interval 1 hour;
It is highly important process in postfinishing process that the tank, which steams step, because the more general wool fiber of mohair yarn fiber is thick Firmly, very big is influenceed on fabric feeling;Technique is steamed with tank, by pressure, the feel and inherent matter of steam from inside to outside to fabric Amount is improved, and is effectively guaranteed the quality and finished product style of product.
The mohair yarn silk that the present invention is obtained easily nurses fancy suiting, according to People's Republic of China (PRC) textile industry GB/T26382- 2011《Combing worsted spinning》Standard is performed, and all technical is through national textile product Quality Supervision and Inspection Center(Jiangyin)Experiment Room is tested, and reaches the requirement of high-class product standard.Mohair yarn silk of the present invention easily nurses fancy suiting good hand feeling, and wearability is excellent It is good, it is preferable single west and suit fabric, with higher economic value added and wide market prospects.
Embodiment two:A kind of mohair yarn silk easily nurses the preparation technology of fancy suiting, comprises the following steps that:
(1)After 67% Australia's hair, 27.5% mohair yarn and 5.5% silk are dyed respectively, through after backwashing, silver mixing, grilling, combing, Grilling obtains finished product bar;The average fineness of Australia's hair is 17.5 μm, and average length is 85mm;The average fineness of the mohair yarn For 25 μm, average length is 95mm;
The Australia mao and the dyeing of mohair yarn are:5%o.w.f orchids receive free and easy dyestuff, 2%o.w.f Millers orchid TOP and helped Agent, adjusts Value in Dyeing Process 6, bath raio 1:20;Dyeing course is divided into two stages, and the first rank dye liquor is started to warm up by 45 DEG C, heating Speed is 1.5 DEG C/min, is warming up to 75 DEG C, is incubated 15 minutes;Second stage, then heated up with 1.5 DEG C/min of programming rate To 95 DEG C, 40 minutes are incubated, cooling adds the wet waxing agent of 2g/L yarns when being cooled to 40 DEG C(Like cottonrose hibiscus wax), it is incubated 10 minutes;Rice Strangle orchid TOP auxiliary agents can prevent colouring it is too fast, enter to contaminate temperature it is too high to fiber cause damage;
Use 3X-A and crude oil and S-10 antistatic additive in the combing process, 3X-A and crude oil, S-10 antistatic additive and The mass ratio of water is 1.2:1.5:10;
(2)By step(1)The finished product bar of obtained Australia's hair, mohair yarn and silk is carried out after silver mixing, through slubbing grilling, two roads Grilling, three road grillings, four road grillings, fly frame, spinning frame, from winder, doubling, double twisting yarn is obtained, finally carry out yarn steaming;
The rove step is produced on fly frame, and rove determines weight for 0.17g/m, both looks after spun yarn drafting, ensures thick again Yarn is unwind, and is prevented from surprisingly stretching oneself and yawn, is caused evenness fault;
The spinning frame step is produced on four roller spinning frames, and drafting multiple is 25 times, close setting, reduces yarn hair Grain, filoplume, improve yarn qualities;
In order to reduce mohair yarn Yarn filoplume, solved from winder step using reduction speed and adjustment unwinding tension, Speed is controlled at 500 ms/min;
The doubling step need to be kept and line passage Glabrous thorn, while to heavy oil on yarn, preventing that silk is abraded, keeping away Exempt from handle yarn, strengthen board inspection, prevent to lack stock yarn generation;
(3)By step(2)Obtained yarn through warping, gait, plug in reed, weaving obtain fabric;
To prevent that the scratch in weaving of silk yarn causes warp end break to increase, to liquid wax on yarn during warping, silk is protected Increase yarn strength simultaneously, improve weaving efficiency;
The speed of rapier loom is suitably reduced in the weaving process, is 320 revs/min, so as to avoid broken end serious, is knitted Efficiency is made to increase on the contrary;The tension piece of weft accumulator is adjusted, stable weft tension, latitude bow yarn defect is decreased obviously, by original 15/are reduced to 3/;The back rest front and back position of rapier loom is 105, is highly -1, and menopause is highly -2, anteroposterior position 56cm is set to, tension force is 220kg, and opening time is 315o;
(4)By step(3)Obtained fabric through it is flat boil, dries, bristle, singe, put down boil, dry, it is ripe repair, bristle, cropping, Dewing, high pressure are steamed, tank steams, preshrunk, obtain finished product;The mohair yarn silk easily nurse the warp count of fancy suiting finished product for 414/ 10cm, weft count is 302/10cm, and grammes per square metre is 225 grams ms;
The speed singed is 95 ms/min, and a positive and a negative is singed, and burner distance is 5cm;
The flat auxiliary agent for boiling process uses Angola 342, and speed is 70 ms/min, tension force 3bar, it is ensured that yarn position Do not slide, make fabric structure stable, it is to avoid wash contracting at a high speed because of rear road and produce face displacement;Carried out again after high speed braying Once put down and boil, it is therefore an objective to rinse again because washing the residual impurity that contracting process may be wrapped in cloth cover, also face is more put down It is whole to be conducive to later process working process;
The bristle step is anti-using 2 positive 1, appropriate jet;
The speed of the shearing step is 15 ms/min, anti-using 4 positive 2;
The moisture regain of the dewing step is 10%, interval 2 hours.
Embodiment three:A kind of mohair yarn silk easily nurses the preparation technology of fancy suiting, comprises the following steps that:
(1)After 66% Australia's hair, 26% mohair yarn and 8% silk are dyed respectively, through after backwashing, silver mixing, grilling, combing, grilling Obtain finished product bar;The average fineness of Australia's hair is 17.6 μm, and average length is 82mm;The average fineness of the mohair yarn is 24 μm, average length is 92mm;
The Australia mao and the dyeing of mohair yarn are:1%o.w.f orchids receive free and easy dyestuff, 1.5%o.w.f Millers orchid TOP and helped Agent, adjusts Value in Dyeing Process 4, bath raio 1:15;Dyeing course is divided into two stages, and the first rank dye liquor is started to warm up by 42 DEG C, heating Speed is 1.2 DEG C/min, is warming up to 72 DEG C, is incubated 16 minutes;Second stage, then heated up with 1.2 DEG C/min of programming rate To 92 DEG C, 42 minutes are incubated, cooling adds the wet waxing agent of 1.5g/L yarns when being cooled to 42 DEG C(Like cottonrose hibiscus wax), it is incubated 12 minutes; Miller orchid TOP auxiliary agents can prevent colouring it is too fast, enter to contaminate temperature it is too high to fiber cause damage;
Use 3X-A and crude oil and S-10 antistatic additive in the combing process, 3X-A and crude oil, S-10 antistatic additive and The mass ratio of water is 1.1: 1.4:9;
(2)By step(1)The finished product bar of obtained Australia's hair, mohair yarn and silk is carried out after silver mixing, through slubbing grilling, two roads Grilling, three road grillings, four road grillings, fly frame, spinning frame, from winder, doubling, double twisting yarn is obtained, finally carry out yarn steaming;
The rove step is produced on fly frame, and rove determines weight for 0.16g/m, both looks after spun yarn drafting, ensures thick again Yarn is unwind, and is prevented from surprisingly stretching oneself and yawn, is caused evenness fault;
The spinning frame step is produced on four roller spinning frames, and drafting multiple is 22 times, close setting, reduces yarn hair Grain, filoplume, improve yarn qualities;
In order to reduce mohair yarn Yarn filoplume, solved from winder step using reduction speed and adjustment unwinding tension, Speed is controlled at 450 ms/min;
The doubling step need to be kept and line passage Glabrous thorn, while to heavy oil on yarn, preventing that silk is abraded, keeping away Exempt from handle yarn, strengthen board inspection, prevent to lack stock yarn generation;
(3)By step(2)Obtained yarn through warping, gait, plug in reed, weaving obtain fabric;
To prevent that the scratch in weaving of silk yarn causes warp end break to increase, to liquid wax on yarn during warping, silk is protected Increase yarn strength simultaneously, improve weaving efficiency;
The speed of rapier loom is suitably reduced in the weaving process, is 310 revs/min, so as to avoid broken end serious, is knitted Efficiency is made to increase on the contrary;The tension piece of weft accumulator is adjusted, stable weft tension, latitude bow yarn defect is decreased obviously, by original 15/are reduced to 3/;The back rest front and back position of rapier loom is 105, is highly -1, and menopause is highly -2, anteroposterior position 56cm is set to, tension force is 210kg, and opening time is 315o;
(4)By step(3)Obtained fabric through it is flat boil, dries, bristle, singe, put down boil, dry, it is ripe repair, bristle, cropping, Dewing, high pressure are steamed, tank steams, preshrunk, obtain finished product;The mohair yarn silk easily nurse the warp count of fancy suiting finished product for 413/ 10cm, weft count is 301/10cm, and grammes per square metre is 225 grams ms;
The speed singed is 92 ms/min, and a positive and a negative is singed, and burner distance is 4.5cm;
The flat auxiliary agent for boiling process uses Angola 342, and speed is 60 ms/min, tension force 2bar, it is ensured that yarn position Do not slide, make fabric structure stable, it is to avoid wash contracting at a high speed because of rear road and produce face displacement;Carried out again after high speed braying Once put down and boil, it is therefore an objective to rinse again because washing the residual impurity that contracting process may be wrapped in cloth cover, also face is more put down It is whole to be conducive to later process working process;
The bristle step is anti-using 2 positive 1, appropriate jet;
The speed of the shearing step is 15 ms/min, anti-using 4 positive 2;
The moisture regain of the dewing step is 9%, interval 1.5 hours.

Claims (1)

1. a kind of mohair yarn silk easily nurses the preparation technology of fancy suiting, it is characterized in that, comprise the following steps that:
(1)After 65~67% Australia's hair, 25~27.5% mohair yarn and 5.5~10% silks are dyed respectively, through after backwashing, silver mixing, pin Comb, combing, grilling obtain finished product bar;
(2)By step(1)The finished product bar of obtained Australia's hair, mohair yarn and silk is carried out after silver mixing, through slubbing grilling, two road pins Comb, three road grillings, four road grillings, fly frame, spinning frame, from winder, doubling, double twisting yarn is obtained, finally carry out yarn steaming;
(3)By step(2)Obtained yarn through warping, gait, plug in reed, weaving obtain fabric;
(4)By step(3)Obtained fabric through it is flat boil, dries, bristle, singe, put down boil, dry, it is ripe repair, bristle, cropping, to Wet, high pressure is steamed, tank steams, preshrunk, obtains finished product;
The average fineness of Australia's hair is 17.5~18 μm, and average length is 80~85mm;The average fineness of the mohair yarn is 22~25 μm, average length is 90~95mm;
The mohair yarn silk easily nurse fancy suiting finished product warp count be 412~414/10cm, weft count be 300~ 302/10cm, grammes per square metre is 220~225 grams ms;
The Australia mao and the dyeing of mohair yarn are:0.1~5%o.w.f orchids receive free and easy dyestuff, 1~2%o.w.f Millers orchid TOP Auxiliary agent, adjusts Value in Dyeing Process 3~6, bath raio 1:10~20;Dyeing course is divided into two stages, and the first rank dye liquor is by 40~45 DEG C Start to warm up, programming rate is 1~1.5 DEG C/min, be warming up to 70~75 DEG C, be incubated 15~20 minutes;Second stage, then with 1 ~1.5 DEG C/min of programming rate is warming up to 90~95 DEG C, is incubated 40~45 minutes, and cooling is added when being cooled to 40~45 DEG C The wet waxing agent of 1~2g/L yarns, is incubated 10~15 minutes;
The step(1)3X-A and crude oil and S-10 antistatic additive, 3X-A and crude oil, S-10 antistatic additive are used in combing process Mass ratio with water is 1~1.2:1.2~1.5:8~10;
Drafting multiple during the spinning frame step is 20~25 times;
It is described from winder step speed be 400~500 ms/min;
The speed of rapier loom is 300~320 revs/min in the weaving process, and the back rest front and back position of rapier loom is 105, it is highly -1, menopause is highly -2, and front and back position is 56cm, and tension force is 200~220kg, and opening time is 315o;
The speed singed is 90~95 ms/min, and a positive and a negative is singed, and burner distance is 4~5cm;
Described to equal process of boiling, auxiliary agent uses Angola 342, and speed is 50~70 ms/min, 1~3bar of tension force.
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CN102560930B (en) * 2012-02-29 2013-06-12 江苏华西村精毛纺织有限公司 Production method of wool/Coolmax/mulberry silk/polyester fiber blended fabric
CN102605580A (en) * 2012-03-26 2012-07-25 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 Preparation method of coolmax fiber/wool blend moisture absorbing/releasing tweed
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CN104452002B (en) * 2014-12-22 2017-02-22 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 High-proportion mohair tweed production process
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