CN105483899B - The production technology of fabric is taken in a kind of big jacquard weave of latitude bullet - Google Patents

The production technology of fabric is taken in a kind of big jacquard weave of latitude bullet Download PDF

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Publication number
CN105483899B
CN105483899B CN201510800257.XA CN201510800257A CN105483899B CN 105483899 B CN105483899 B CN 105483899B CN 201510800257 A CN201510800257 A CN 201510800257A CN 105483899 B CN105483899 B CN 105483899B
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fabric
width
tissue
latitude
jacquard
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Expired - Fee Related
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CN201510800257.XA
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CN105483899A (en
Inventor
隋全侠
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02Setting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses the production technology that fabric is taken in a kind of big jacquard weave of latitude bullet, comprise the following steps:(1) technology;(2) weaving process;(3) postfinishing process:Open width-cold dome-open width-high temperature makes a reservation for-dehydration open-width-soft finish-low-temperature shaped-inspection-finished product.Figurative jacquard in the present invention is weft elastic fabric, the overall white system of outward appearance so that fabric simply without mistake characteristic, integrally seems graceful, generous.The decorative pattern of cloth cover has satiety and silk quality sense, and flower pattern is more protruded, and enhances third dimension.The combination of yarn and tissue fully improves the class and comfort level of the fabric, and pliability is even more greatly strengthened, and the product is mainly used in the high-grade dress shell fabric of spring and autumn, deep to be liked by vast fashional consumption person.

Description

The production technology of fabric is taken in a kind of big jacquard weave of latitude bullet
Technical field
Present invention relates particularly to the production technology that fabric is taken in a kind of big jacquard weave of latitude bullet.
Background technology
In recent years, jacquard fabrics are prevailing in home textile field, are because the people of more and more pursuit high-quality lives, see Unique third dimension and sense of worth that itself possesses have been arrived, still, the actually rare of wearing fabric has been made with figurative jacquard.Carry Hua designer is when being designed, it should more consider how people-oriented, more goes to be concerned about research new material and color Color utilization so that while fine artistic treat can be presented in designed product, more can be on the healthy living brocade of people Add flower.At present, many modern consumers require clothes convenience comfortable and easy to wear, easily personal, show pretty figure, and can be with people The motion of body and it is capable of expansion and contraction so that stockinette is increasingly favored by people.
The present invention by low elastic polyester filament, wash bag elastic polyurethane fiber yarn and cotton yarn is reasonably combined, then be equipped with the knot of tissue of big jacquard weave Structure, successfully develops a latitude bullet figurative jacquard, and the product appearance is elegant and graceful, and soft, delicate colors is flexible, It is the fine selection of high-grade dress shell fabric.
The content of the invention
Goal of the invention:The present invention provides the production technology that fabric is taken in a kind of big jacquard weave of latitude bullet, and yarn is organic with tissue With reference to the class and comfort level for fully improving the fabric, pliability is even more greatly strengthened, and the product is mainly used in the spring Autumn top grade dress shell fabric, it is deep to be liked by vast fashional consumption person.
Technical scheme:The production technology of fabric is taken in a kind of big jacquard weave of latitude bullet, comprises the following steps:(1) technology:
Using strange remittance electronic jacquard machine, available thread number is 13200, and keevil columns 24 is arranged, and actual is 16 from columns Row, the total line number of keevil is 12864/16=804 rows;Open height using clear shed open type, i.e. jacquard per a (row) And it is unequal, therefore, mesh hole is used per 24 mesh holes of a line in keevil, has 24 needle pieces corresponding per a line with jacquard, Totally 16 row;The method of wearing of keevil uses horizontal straight arrangement;
Often warp thread number is spent to be 2640, when width is determined in fabric, fabric spends number to be equal to width divided by flower width, full width in fabric 4.8 flowers, generally, fabric spends several many round numbers, when there is broken flower, is made for the ease of dress, should be remaining uniform point of flower part Cloth is in the left and right sides of fabrics cloth cover;Total quantity of warps is 13056, wherein, side yarn is 96 × 2=192 roots, and interior warp thread number is 12864;The fabric is organized as filling-backed weave, the warp thread of only one of which system, therefore board is single hanging singly to make;
(2) weaving process:
Using ZA203 air-jet looms and strange remittance electronic jacquard machine joint test weaving, in product test weaving, by designed artistic conception Map file, constituent act, model card file input electronic jacquard loom controller, then start can be weaved;Designer Member can change style and related process on the display screen of electronic jacquard loom controller;
Because the fabric tissue is filling-backed weave, two kinds of weft yarn interval inputs determine the first latitude for weft yarn 11.11tex (44dtex), the second latitude is weft yarn JC18tex, and in picking, tissue order will be with picking sequence consensus;Flower pattern bossing, the One latitude is 24 piece 17 and flies satin, and the second latitude is plain weave;Flower pattern not bossing, the first latitude is plain weave, and the second latitude is 24 piece 7 Fly Warp Satin;By the drawn deposit of the tissue of two kinds of color lumps, tissue synthesis is carried out, by the tissue of synthesis with throwing a spear when filling out tissue It is mapped and inserts the configuration of tissue table;Loom efficiency is up to 88.9%, and First Grade Percentage Before Cloth Repairing is up to 90%;
(3) postfinishing process:
Postfinishing process flow is:Open width-cold dome-open width-high temperature makes a reservation for-dehydration open-width-soft finish-low temperature Sizing-inspection-finished product.
It is used as further optimization:In (2) weaving process, the technical parameter designed by the product is:Warp thread weave shrinkage For 5%, weft shrinkage is 6%, and lower captain's shrinkage is 3%, and dyeing and finishing elongation is 3%, and dyeing and finishing width shrinkage is 12%, latitude bullet system Number is 13%.
It is used as further optimization:In (2) weaving process, woven design parameter is:Total quantity of warps 13056, finished product Breadth 150cm, reed width 208m, the ㎝ of the tooth of porter 157/10 penetrate 4 per reed;ZA203 air-jet loom Opening Travel first pages Page 90mm of 82mm, second page 86mm, the 3rd;Opening time is 270 ° -340 °;Back beam height -0.5cm;Warp tension is 17CN, Main burner pressure is 0.25MPa, and pilot jet pressure is 0.4-0.5Mpa;Upper machine through it is close be 640/10cm;Width is often spent on machine Spend for 42cm;Upper 310/10cm of machine filling density.
It is used as further optimization:In (3) postfinishing process, high temperature predetermined temperature is 205 DEG C~210 DEG C.
It is used as further optimization:In (3) postfinishing process, setting temperature is at 175 DEG C~185 DEG C.
Beneficial effect:The product of the present invention, warp yarn uses 11.11tex/96F DTY, and weft yams are used 11.11tex (44dtex) washs ammonia covering yarn and JC18tex1:1 is spaced.From the point of view of fabric face, exist and rocket and do not rise Flower two parts, two-part tissue is filling-backed weave.Wherein, the surface texture of part of rocketing is weft yarn cotton and warp yarns Satin tissue, can thus cause the flower pattern of fabric face is mainly to be formed by cotton, and the inside tissue is latitude Yarn washs the plain weave of bag elastic polyurethane fiber yarn and warp yarns, because the weft yarn of the tissue is flexible so that fabric is just The flower pattern in face is more prominent and full.Do not rocket part surface texture be weft yarn cotton and warp yarns plain weave, The inside tissue is the Warp Satin tissue that weft yarn washs bag elastic polyurethane fiber yarn and warp yarns, and such collocation causes fabric just The ground portion cotton in face is suitable with terylene composition, uneven, as the sensation of seersucker.The figurative jacquard is weft elastic fabric, outward appearance Overall white system so that fabric simply without losing characteristic, integrally seems graceful, generous.The decorative pattern of cloth cover have satiety and Silk quality sense, flower pattern is more protruded, and enhances third dimension.Yarn with tissue combination fully improve the fabric class and Comfort level, pliability is even more greatly strengthened, and the product is mainly used in the high-grade dress shell fabric of spring and autumn, deep by vast fashion Consumer's likes.
The specific advantage of the present invention is as follows:
(1) present invention is by designing and developing the big jacquard weave wearing fabric of latitude bullet, it will be appreciated that should be directed in production through weft yarn The characteristics of raw material and the tissue optimizing technology parameters of figurative jacquard configuration.
(2) present invention is in order to reduce due to the production expense of the different and increased Jacquard Mountings of figurative jacquard specification With entering luggage and make applying mechanically for board, when the circulation of flower pattern, which can not meet big jacquard weave dress, makes, reset to repair by artistic conception parameter Change flower pattern to reach requirement.
(3) it is therefore, certain it is noted that tissue order due to two kinds of weft yarn interval inputs in the weaving process of the present invention With picking sequence consensus, it just can guarantee that the flower pattern on fabric reaches initially designed style.
(4) postfinishing process and common figurative jacquard of latitude bullet figurative jacquard of the invention are different, shrinkage The calculating that control and the control of door width are required for accurately could be controlled proper, setting temperature and time should be controlled, with guarantor Demonstrate,prove the elasticity and the breadth required by client of fabric.
(5) the invention is characterized in that a series of technical measures, may finally ensure the smooth production of product, reach expection Effect.The product necessarily has larger market potential and development space as clothes jacquard fabrics.
(6) in technology of the invention, single hanging using singly making, the method for wearing of keevil uses horizontal straight arrangement;Using ZA203 air-jet looms and strange remittance electronic jacquard machine joint test weaving, preferably each technological parameter.
(7) in postfinishing process of the invention, high temperature pre-setting temperature control is in 205 DEG C~210 DEG C, low-temperature shaped temperature Control is at 175 DEG C~185 DEG C;By taking a series of technical measures, the smooth production of product may finally be ensured, reached pre- Phase effect.
Embodiment
With reference to specific embodiment, the present invention will be described in detail.
Specific embodiment 1:
(1) technology
Often warp thread number is spent to be 2640, when width is determined in fabric, fabric spends number to be equal to width divided by flower width in fabric.Full width 4.8 flowers, generally, fabric spends several many round numbers, when there is broken flower, is made for the ease of dress, should be remaining uniform point of flower part Cloth is in the left and right sides of fabrics cloth cover.Total quantity of warps is 13056, and wherein side yarn is 96 × 2=192 roots, and interior warp thread number is 12864.The fabric is organized as filling-backed weave, the warp thread of only one of which system, therefore board is single hanging singly to make.
Using strange remittance electronic jacquard machine, available thread number is 13200, and keevil columns 24 is arranged, and actual is 16 from columns Row.The total line number of keevil is 12864/16=804 rows.Open height using clear shed open type, i.e. jacquard per a (row) And it is unequal.Therefore, mesh hole is used per 24 mesh holes of a line in keevil, has 24 needle pieces corresponding per a line with jacquard, Totally 16 row.And in actual production, the use of keevil is to be determined according to fabric through close, if through close higher, unit width The line number that interior harness cord penetrates keevil is more.On the contrary, fabric through close lower, keevil can not change after determining.Therefore, it is fixed Keevil number, versatility is simultaneously bad.Requirement, therefore the line of electronic jacquard machine are made in order to substantially meet the dress of different figurative jacquards Pin number is more, and is typically made using common dress.Also therefore keevil to wear method also relatively simple, majority is using horizontal straight arrangements.
(2) weaving process
Using ZA203 air-jet looms and strange remittance electronic jacquard machine joint test weaving.In product test weaving, by designed artistic conception Map file, constituent act, model card file input electronic jacquard loom controller, then start can be weaved.Designer Member can change style and related process on the display screen of electronic jacquard loom controller.The knitting technology of latitude bullet figurative jacquard and Postfinishing process and common figurative jacquard are different, and the control of shrinkage and the control of door width are required for being precisely calculated It can control proper.Technical parameter designed by the product is that warp thread weave shrinkage is 5%, and weft shrinkage is 6%, lower captain's shrinkage For 3%, dyeing and finishing elongation is 3%, and dyeing and finishing width shrinkage is 12%, and latitude bullet coefficient is 13%.
Woven design parameter is:Total quantity of warps 13056, Fabric width 150cm, reed width 208m, the ㎝ of the tooth of porter 157/10, 4 are penetrated per reed.ZA203 air-jet loom Opening Travel first page 82mm, second page 86mm, the 3rd page 90mm;Opening time is 270 °~340 °;Back beam height -0.5cm;Warp tension is 17CN, and main burner pressure is 0.25MPa, and pilot jet pressure is 0.4-0.5Mpa;Upper machine through it is close be 640/10cm;Width is often spent to be 42cm on machine;Upper 310/10cm of machine filling density.
Because the fabric tissue is filling-backed weave, two kinds of weft yarn interval inputs determine the first latitude for weft yarn 11.11tex (44dtex), the second latitude is weft yarn JC18tex, and in picking, tissue order will be with picking sequence consensus.Flower pattern bossing, the One latitude is 24 piece 17 and flies satin, and the second latitude is plain weave;Flower pattern not bossing, the first latitude is plain weave, and the second latitude is 24 piece 7 Fly Warp Satin.By the drawn deposit of the tissue of two kinds of color lumps, tissue synthesis is carried out, by the tissue of synthesis with throwing a spear when filling out tissue It is mapped and inserts the configuration of tissue table.Loom efficiency is up to 88.9%, and First Grade Percentage Before Cloth Repairing is up to 90%.
(3) postfinishing process
Postfinishing process flow is:Open width-cold dome-open width-high temperature makes a reservation for-dehydration open-width-soft finish-low temperature Sizing-inspection-finished product;Each procedure process conditions are described as follows.
(1) open width:Because grain cross contains spandex, therefore, first by fabric in open width shape
Allow spandex to be shunk in advance under state, make cloth cover smooth.
(2) cold dome:Fabric feeling is set to become soft, more fluffy.
(3) open width:Open width is, in order to make cloth cover smooth again, to be laid a solid foundation for control door width again.
(4) high temperature makes a reservation for:Fabric Style is controlled, and allows fabric to keep its due style.High temperature predetermined temperature is at 205 DEG C ~210 DEG C.
(5) it is dehydrated open-width:It is fully that moisture is de- dry, it is possible to decrease energy consumption.If dehydration is not done, and dehydration is uneven, then in advance Fabric size is unstable after sizing.
(6) soft finish:Add softening agent and obtain the soft effect that client wants.
(7) it is low-temperature shaped:Setting temperature is at 175 DEG C~185 DEG C;Then examine, to finished product.
The present invention is not limited to above-mentioned preferred forms, and anyone can show that other are various under the enlightenment of the present invention The product of form, however, make any change in its shape or structure, it is every that there is skill identical or similar to the present application Art scheme, is within the scope of the present invention.

Claims (1)

1. the production technology of fabric is taken in a kind of big jacquard weave of latitude bullet, it is characterised in that:Comprise the following steps:
(1) technology:
Using strange remittance electronic jacquard machine, available thread number is 13200, and keevil columns 24 is arranged, and actual is 16 row, mesh from columns The total line number of plate is 12864/16=804 rows;Using clear shed open type, the i.e. open height of each row of jacquard and unequal, Therefore, mesh hole is used per 24 mesh holes of a line in keevil, has 24 needle pieces corresponding per a line with jacquard, totally 16 row;Mesh The method of wearing of plate uses horizontal straight arrangement;
Often warp thread number is spent to be 2640, when width is determined in fabric, fabric spends number to be equal to width divided by flower width, full width 4.8 in fabric Flower, generally, fabric spends several many round numbers, when there is broken flower, is made for the ease of dress, remaining flower part should be evenly distributed on The left and right sides of fabrics cloth cover;Total quantity of warps is 13056, wherein, side yarn is 96 × 2=192 roots, and interior warp thread number is 12864;The fabric is organized as filling-backed weave, the warp thread of only one of which system, therefore board is single hanging singly to make;
(2) weaving process:
Using ZA203 air-jet looms and strange remittance electronic jacquard machine joint test weaving, in product test weaving, by designed artistic conception picture and text Part, constituent act, model card file input electronic jacquard loom controller, then start can be weaved;Designer exists Style and related process are changed on the display screen of electronic jacquard loom controller;
Because the fabric tissue is filling-backed weave, warp yarn uses 11.11tex/96F DTY, and weft yams are used 11.11tex washs ammonia covering yarn and JC18tex with 1:1 is spaced, and in picking, tissue order will be with picking sequence consensus;Flower Type bossing, the first latitude is 24 piece 17 and flies satin, and the second latitude is plain weave;Flower pattern not bossing, the first latitude is plain weave, Second latitude is 24 piece 7 and flies Warp Satin;By the drawn deposit of the tissue of two kinds of color lumps, tissue synthesis is carried out, will be closed when filling out tissue Into tissue with throw a spear be mapped insert tissue table configuration;Loom efficiency is up to 88.9%, and First Grade Percentage Before Cloth Repairing reaches 90%;
(3) postfinishing process:
Postfinishing process flow is:Open width-cold dome-open width-high temperature is predetermined-and dehydration open-width-soft finish-low temperature is fixed Type-inspection-finished product;
In (2) weaving process, the technical parameter designed by the product is:Warp thread weave shrinkage is 5%, and weft shrinkage is 6%, lower captain's shrinkage is 3%, and dyeing and finishing elongation is 3%, and dyeing and finishing width shrinkage is 12%, and latitude bullet coefficient is 13%;
In (2) weaving process, woven design parameter is:Total quantity of warps 13056, Fabric width 150cm, the tooth of porter 157/ 10 ㎝, 4 are penetrated per reed;ZA203 air-jet loom Opening Travel first page 82mm, second page 86mm, the 3rd page 90mm;During opening Between be 270 ° -340 °;Back beam height -0.5cm;Warp tension is 17CN, and main burner pressure is 0.25MPa, pilot jet pressure For 0.4-0.5Mpa;Upper machine through it is close be 640/10cm;Width is often spent to be 42cm on machine;Upper 310/10cm of machine filling density;
In (3) postfinishing process, high temperature predetermined temperature is 205 DEG C~210 DEG C;
In (3) postfinishing process, setting temperature is at 175 DEG C~185 DEG C.
CN201510800257.XA 2015-11-19 2015-11-19 The production technology of fabric is taken in a kind of big jacquard weave of latitude bullet Expired - Fee Related CN105483899B (en)

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CN106757638A (en) * 2016-12-14 2017-05-31 马鞍山金姿纺织装饰用品有限公司 A kind of big jacquard table cloth Weaving method
CN107881621A (en) * 2017-10-20 2018-04-06 临猗县鑫得利纺织印染有限公司 One kind, which is relaxed, plays Crinkled face fabric
CN108179523A (en) * 2018-01-22 2018-06-19 江阴市德莱新面料有限公司 A kind of bubble jacquard double-sided cloth and its afterfinish method

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