CN105483899A - Production process of weft stretch jacquard dress fabric - Google Patents
Production process of weft stretch jacquard dress fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN105483899A CN105483899A CN201510800257.XA CN201510800257A CN105483899A CN 105483899 A CN105483899 A CN 105483899A CN 201510800257 A CN201510800257 A CN 201510800257A CN 105483899 A CN105483899 A CN 105483899A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
Abstract
The present invention discloses a production process of weft stretch jacquard dress fabric. The production process comprises the following steps of: (1) a loom mounting process; (2) a weaving process; (3) and a final finishing process including: open width processing, cold batch processing, open width processing, high-temperature presetting, dewatering and scotching, soft finish, low-temperature setting, inspection, and finished product production. The jacquard fabric is weft stretch fabric, the overall appearance is white, so that the fabric is simple, characteristic and elegant. Patterns of the fabric are full, silky and more prominent, and stereoscopic impression is enhanced. Grade and comfortableness of the fabric are fully improved by organic combination of yarns and textures, softness is largely increased, and the product is mainly used for spring and autumn high-grade women's fabric and is well received by fashion consumers.
Description
Technical field
The present invention is specifically related to the production technology that fabric is taken in the large jacquard weave of a kind of latitude bullet.
Background technology
In recent years, jacquard fabrics is in, and to spin field prevailing, is because more and more people pursuing high-quality life, sees third dimension and the sense of worth of the uniqueness that itself possesses, but, do the actually rare of wearing fabric with figurative jacquard.Jacquard design teacher is when designing, more should consider how people-oriented, more go the utilization being concerned about research new material and color, while making designed product can present fine artistic treat, more can make something perfect even more perfect for the healthy living of people.At present, many modern consumer require convenience comfortable and easy to wear to clothes, easily next to the skin, performance pretty figure, and can be capable of expansion and contraction along with the motion of human body, thus make stockinette more and more be subject to the favor of people.
The present invention by low elastic polyester filament, wash bag elastic polyurethane fiber yarn and cotton yarn reasonably combined, then be equipped with the institutional framework of large jacquard weave, successfully develop a latitude bullet figurative jacquard, this product appearance is elegant and graceful, soft, delicate colors, flexible, be the fine selection of high-grade dress shell fabric.
Summary of the invention
Goal of the invention: the invention provides the production technology that fabric is taken in the large jacquard weave of a kind of latitude bullet, the combination of yarn and tissue fully improves class and the comfort level of this fabric, pliability is enhanced especially greatly, this product is mainly used in the high-grade dress shell fabric of spring and autumn, dark liking by vast fashional consumption person.
Technical scheme: the production technology of fabric is taken in the large jacquard weave of a kind of latitude bullet, comprises the steps: (1) technology:
Adopt and very converge electronic jacquard machine, available line pin number is 13200, and keevil columns 24 arranges, and actual columns of selecting is 16 row, and the total line number of keevil is that 12864/16=804 is capable; Adopt clear shed open type, i.e. each row open height of (OK) of jacquard unequal, therefore, in keevil, order hole adopts every a line 24 order holes, has 24 needle sheets corresponding, totally 16 row with the every a line of jacquard; The method of wearing of keevil adopts laterally along wearing method;
Often spend warp thread number to be 2640, when in fabric, width is determined, fabric spends number to equal in fabric width divided by flower width, full width 4.8 flower, generally, fabric spends several many round numbers, when there being broken flower, making for the ease of dress, remaining flower part should be evenly distributed on the left and right sides of fabrics cloth cover; Total quantity of warps is 13056, and wherein, limit yarn is 96 × 2=192 root, and interior warp thread number is 12864; This fabric be organized as filling-backed weave, only have the warp thread of a system, therefore board is single hanging for singly to make;
(2) weaving process:
Adopt ZA203 air-jet loom and strange remittance electronic jacquard machine associating test weaving, when product test weaving, by the plan of weave file, constituent act, the model card file input electronic jacquard loom controller that design, start subsequently can be weaved; Designer can revise style and related process on the display screen of electronic jacquard loom controller;
Because this fabric tissue is filling-backed weave, two kinds of weft yarn intervals are dropped into, and determine that the first latitude is weft yarn 11.11tex (44dtex), the second latitude is weft yarn JC18tex, when picking tissue order will with picking sequence consensus; Flower pattern bossing, the first latitude is 24 piece 17 and flies satin, and the second latitude is plain weave; Flower pattern is bossing not, and the first latitude is plain weave, and the second latitude is 24 piece 7 and flies Warp Satin; By two kinds of color lumps organize drawn stored in, carry out tissue synthesis, fill out when organizing and the tissue of synthesis is inserted organization table and configured with throwing a spear to being mapped; Loom efficiency can reach 88.9%, and First Grade Percentage Before Cloth Repairing reaches 90%;
(3) postfinishing process:
Rear finishing duplex process flow is: open width-cold dome-open width-high temperature makes a reservation for-dehydration open-width-soft finish-low-temperature shaped-inspection-finished product.
As further optimization: in described (2) weaving process, the technical parameter designed by this product is: warp thread weave shrinkage is 5%, and weft shrinkage is 6%, lower captain's shrinkage is 3%, dyeing and finishing percentage elongation is 3%, and dyeing and finishing width shrinkage is 12%, and latitude bullet coefficient is 13%.
As further optimization: in described (2) weaving process, woven design parameter is: total quantity of warps 13056, Fabric width 150cm, reed width 208m, porter 157 tooth/10 ㎝, and every reed penetrates 4; ZA203 air-jet loom Opening Travel first page 82mm, second page 86mm, the 3rd page of 90mm; Opening time is 270 °-340 °; Back beam height-0.5cm; Warp tension is 17CN, and main burner pressure is 0.25MPa, and pilot jet pressure is 0.4-0.5Mpa; Upper machine through close be 640/10cm; Machine often spend width to be 42cm; Upper machine filling density 310/10cm.
As further optimization: in described (3) postfinishing process, High Temperature Pre fixed temperature is 205 DEG C ~ 210 DEG C.
As further optimization: in described (3) postfinishing process, setting temperature is at 175 DEG C ~ 185 DEG C.
Beneficial effect: product of the present invention, warp yarn adopts 11.11tex/96FDTY, and weft yams adopts 11.11tex (44dtex) to wash ammonia cladded yarn and JC18tex1:1 alternately.From fabric face, there are the two parts that rocket and do not rocket, two-part tissue is filling-backed weave.Wherein, the surface texture of the part that rockets is the satin tissue of weft yarn cotton and warp yarns, the flower pattern of fabric face will be made so mainly to be formed by cotton, and the inside tissue is weft yarn washs the plain weave of bag elastic polyurethane fiber yarn and warp yarns, because the weft yarn of this tissue has elasticity, make the flower pattern of fabric face more outstanding and full.The surface texture of the part that do not rocket is the plain weave of weft yarn cotton and warp yarns, the inside tissue is the Warp Satin tissue that weft yarn washs bag elastic polyurethane fiber yarn and warp yarns, such collocation makes the ground portion of fabric face cotton suitable with terylene composition, uneven, as the sensation of seersucker.This figurative jacquard is weft elastic fabric, and overall appearance is white color system, makes fabric simply and not lose characteristic, and entirety seems graceful, generous.The decorative pattern of cloth cover has satiety and silk quality sense, and flower pattern is more outstanding, enhances third dimension.The combination of yarn and tissue fully improves class and the comfort level of this fabric, and pliability is enhanced especially greatly, and this product is mainly used in the high-grade dress shell fabric of spring and autumn, dark liking by vast fashional consumption person.
Concrete advantage of the present invention is as follows:
(1) the present invention can realize by designing and developing the large jacquard weave wearing fabric of latitude bullet, should for organizing optimizing technology parameters through the feature of weft yarn raw material and figurative jacquard configuration in production.
(2) the present invention is in order to reduce the producing cost of the Jacquard Mounting increased due to the difference of figurative jacquard specification, carry out filling and make applying mechanically of board, when the circulation of flower pattern can not meet large jacquard weave dress make time, reset by artistic conception parameter and revise flower pattern and reach requirement.
(3) in weaving process of the present invention, because two kinds of weft yarn intervals are dropped into, therefore, must note tissue order and picking sequence consensus, the flower pattern on guarantee fabric reaches initial designed style.
(4) postfinishing process of latitude bullet figurative jacquard of the present invention and common figurative jacquard different, it is proper that the control of shrinkage and the control of door width all need calculating accurately to control, setting temperature and time should be controlled well, to ensure the fabric width required by the elasticity of fabric and client.
(5) the present invention is by taking a series of technical measures, finally can ensure the smooth production of product, produce a desired effect.This product, as clothes jacquard fabrics, must have larger market potential and development space.
(6) in technology of the present invention, adopt and singly make list hanging, the method for wearing of keevil adopts laterally along wearing method; Adopt ZA203 air-jet loom and strange remittance electronic jacquard machine associating test weaving, preferred each technological parameter.
(7) in postfinishing process of the present invention, High Temperature Pre setting temperature controls at 205 DEG C ~ 210 DEG C, and low-temperature shaped temperature controls at 175 DEG C ~ 185 DEG C; By taking a series of technical measures, finally can ensure the smooth production of product, reaching Expected Results.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, the present invention will be described in detail.
Specific embodiment 1:
(1) technology
Often spend warp thread number to be 2640, when in fabric, width is determined, fabric spends number to equal in fabric width divided by flower width.Full width 4.8 flower, generally, fabric spends several many round numbers, when there being broken flower, makes for the ease of dress, remaining flower part should be evenly distributed on the left and right sides of fabrics cloth cover.Total quantity of warps is 13056, and wherein limit yarn is 96 × 2=192 root, and interior warp thread number is 12864.This fabric be organized as filling-backed weave, only have the warp thread of a system, therefore board is single hanging for singly to make.
Adopt and very converge electronic jacquard machine, available line pin number is 13200, and keevil columns 24 arranges, and actual columns of selecting is 16 row.The total line number of keevil is that 12864/16=804 is capable.Adopt clear shed open type, i.e. each row open height of (OK) of jacquard unequal.Therefore, in keevil, order hole adopts every a line 24 order holes, has 24 needle sheets corresponding, totally 16 row with the every a line of jacquard.And in actual production, the use of keevil is determining through close according to fabric, if through close higher, in unit width, to penetrate the line number of keevil more for harness cord.On the contrary, fabric through close lower, keevil can not change after determining.Therefore, fixing keevil number, versatility is also bad.In order to requirement made by the dress substantially meeting different figurative jacquard, therefore the line pin number of electronic jacquard machine is more, and the common dress of general employing is made.Also therefore the method for wearing of keevil is also comparatively simple, and most employing is laterally along wearing method.
(2) weaving process
Adopt ZA203 air-jet loom and strange remittance electronic jacquard machine associating test weaving.When product test weaving, by the plan of weave file, constituent act, the model card file input electronic jacquard loom controller that design, start subsequently can be weaved.Designer can revise style and related process on the display screen of electronic jacquard loom controller.The knitting technology of latitude bullet figurative jacquard and postfinishing process and common figurative jacquard different, the control of shrinkage and the control of door width all need accurately to calculate could control proper.Technical parameter designed by this product is warp thread weave shrinkage is 5%, and weft shrinkage is 6%, and lower captain's shrinkage is 3%, and dyeing and finishing percentage elongation is 3%, and dyeing and finishing width shrinkage is 12%, and latitude bullet coefficient is 13%.
Woven design parameter is: total quantity of warps 13056, Fabric width 150cm, reed width 208m, and porter 157 tooth/10 ㎝, every reed penetrates 4.ZA203 air-jet loom Opening Travel first page 82mm, second page 86mm, the 3rd page of 90mm; Opening time is 270 ° ~ 340 °; Back beam height-0.5cm; Warp tension is 17CN, and main burner pressure is 0.25MPa, and pilot jet pressure is 0.4-0.5Mpa; Upper machine through close be 640/10cm; Machine often spend width to be 42cm; Upper machine filling density 310/10cm.
Because this fabric tissue is filling-backed weave, two kinds of weft yarn intervals are dropped into, and determine that the first latitude is weft yarn 11.11tex (44dtex), the second latitude is weft yarn JC18tex, when picking tissue order will with picking sequence consensus.Flower pattern bossing, the first latitude is 24 piece 17 and flies satin, and the second latitude is plain weave; Flower pattern is bossing not, and the first latitude is plain weave, and the second latitude is 24 piece 7 and flies Warp Satin.By two kinds of color lumps organize drawn stored in, carry out tissue synthesis, fill out when organizing and the tissue of synthesis is inserted organization table and configured with throwing a spear to being mapped.Loom efficiency can reach 88.9%, and First Grade Percentage Before Cloth Repairing reaches 90%.
(3) postfinishing process
Rear finishing duplex process flow is: open width-cold dome-open width-high temperature makes a reservation for-dehydration open-width-soft finish-low-temperature shaped-inspection-finished product; Each procedure process conditions are described as follows.
(1) open width: because grain cross contains spandex, therefore, first by fabric at open width shape
Allow spandex shrink in advance under state, make cloth cover smooth.
(2) cold dome: make fabric feeling become soft, more fluffy.
(3) open width: open width is to make cloth cover smooth again again, for control gate width is laid a solid foundation.
(4) high temperature makes a reservation for: control Fabric Style, and allow fabric keep its due style.High Temperature Pre fixed temperature is at 205 DEG C ~ 210 DEG C.
(5) dehydration open-width: fully by de-for moisture dry, capable of reducing energy consumption.If dehydration is not done, and it is uneven to dewater, then after pre-setting, fabric size is unstable.
(6) soft finish: add the soft effect that softener acquisition client wants.
(7) low-temperature shaped: setting temperature is at 175 DEG C ~ 185 DEG C; Then check, to finished product.
The present invention is not limited to above-mentioned preferred forms; anyone can draw other various forms of products under enlightenment of the present invention; no matter but any change is done in its shape or structure; every have identical with the application or akin technical scheme, all drops within protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (5)
1. a production technology for fabric is taken in the large jacquard weave of latitude bullet, it is characterized in that: comprise the steps:
(1) technology:
Adopt and very converge electronic jacquard machine, available line pin number is 13200, and keevil columns 24 arranges, and actual columns of selecting is 16 row, and the total line number of keevil is that 12864/16=804 is capable; Adopt clear shed open type, i.e. each row open height of (OK) of jacquard unequal, therefore, in keevil, order hole adopts every a line 24 order holes, has 24 needle sheets corresponding, totally 16 row with the every a line of jacquard; The method of wearing of keevil adopts laterally along wearing method;
Often spend warp thread number to be 2640, when in fabric, width is determined, fabric spends number to equal in fabric width divided by flower width, full width 4.8 flower, generally, fabric spends several many round numbers, when there being broken flower, making for the ease of dress, remaining flower part should be evenly distributed on the left and right sides of fabrics cloth cover; Total quantity of warps is 13056, and wherein, limit yarn is 96 × 2=192 root, and interior warp thread number is 12864; This fabric be organized as filling-backed weave, only have the warp thread of a system, therefore board is single hanging for singly to make;
(2) weaving process:
Adopt ZA203 air-jet loom and strange remittance electronic jacquard machine associating test weaving, when product test weaving, by the plan of weave file, constituent act, the model card file input electronic jacquard loom controller that design, start subsequently can be weaved; Designer can revise style and related process on the display screen of electronic jacquard loom controller;
Because this fabric tissue is filling-backed weave, two kinds of weft yarn intervals are dropped into, and determine that the first latitude is weft yarn 11.11tex (44dtex), the second latitude is weft yarn JC18tex, when picking tissue order will with picking sequence consensus; Flower pattern bossing, the first latitude is 24 piece 17 and flies satin, and the second latitude is plain weave; Flower pattern is bossing not, and the first latitude is plain weave, and the second latitude is 24 piece 7 and flies Warp Satin; By two kinds of color lumps organize drawn stored in, carry out tissue synthesis, fill out when organizing and the tissue of synthesis is inserted organization table and configured with throwing a spear to being mapped; Loom efficiency can reach 88.9%, and First Grade Percentage Before Cloth Repairing reaches 90%;
(3) postfinishing process:
Rear finishing duplex process flow is: open width-cold dome-open width-high temperature makes a reservation for-dehydration open-width-soft finish-low-temperature shaped-inspection-finished product.
2. the production technology of fabric is taken in the large jacquard weave of latitude bullet according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: in described (2) weaving process, technical parameter designed by this product is: warp thread weave shrinkage is 5%, weft shrinkage is 6%, lower captain's shrinkage is 3%, dyeing and finishing percentage elongation is 3%, and dyeing and finishing width shrinkage is 12%, and latitude bullet coefficient is 13%.
3. the production technology of fabric is taken in the large jacquard weave of latitude bullet according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: in described (2) weaving process, woven design parameter is: total quantity of warps 13056, Fabric width 150cm, reed width 208m, porter 157 tooth/10 ㎝, every reed penetrates 4; ZA203 air-jet loom Opening Travel first page 82mm, second page 86mm, the 3rd page of 90mm; Opening time is 270 °-340 °; Back beam height-0.5cm; Warp tension is 17CN, and main burner pressure is 0.25MPa, and pilot jet pressure is 0.4-0.5Mpa; Upper machine through close be 640/10cm; Machine often spend width to be 42cm; Upper machine filling density 310/10cm.
4. the production technology of fabric is taken in the large jacquard weave of latitude bullet according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: in described (3) postfinishing process, and High Temperature Pre fixed temperature is 205 DEG C ~ 210 DEG C.
5. the production technology of fabric is taken in the large jacquard weave of latitude bullet according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: in described (3) postfinishing process, setting temperature is at 175 DEG C ~ 185 DEG C.
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Cited By (4)
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| CN106757638A (en) * | 2016-12-14 | 2017-05-31 | 马鞍山金姿纺织装饰用品有限公司 | A kind of big jacquard table cloth Weaving method |
| CN107881621A (en) * | 2017-10-20 | 2018-04-06 | 临猗县鑫得利纺织印染有限公司 | One kind, which is relaxed, plays Crinkled face fabric |
| CN108179523A (en) * | 2018-01-22 | 2018-06-19 | 江阴市德莱新面料有限公司 | A kind of bubble jacquard double-sided cloth and its afterfinish method |
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| 隋全侠: "汽车内饰大提花面料的设计与生产", 《产业用纺织品》 * |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN106480571A (en) * | 2016-12-14 | 2017-03-08 | 马鞍山金姿纺织装饰用品有限公司 | A kind of big jacquard table cloth Jacquard Mounting method |
| CN106757638A (en) * | 2016-12-14 | 2017-05-31 | 马鞍山金姿纺织装饰用品有限公司 | A kind of big jacquard table cloth Weaving method |
| CN107881621A (en) * | 2017-10-20 | 2018-04-06 | 临猗县鑫得利纺织印染有限公司 | One kind, which is relaxed, plays Crinkled face fabric |
| CN108179523A (en) * | 2018-01-22 | 2018-06-19 | 江阴市德莱新面料有限公司 | A kind of bubble jacquard double-sided cloth and its afterfinish method |
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