A kind of dual whitening emulsion and preparation method thereof
Technical field
The invention belongs to cosmetic field, relate to a kind of composition and method of making the same with instant whitening and long-acting whitening particularly.
Background technology
In the Orient, the product of whitening by the favor of consumer, has very large market potential deeply, and whitening product is an important category in skin care field always, and the whitening product of reference examples 1 is of a great variety, and these whitening products mainly can be divided into two large classes:
1, physics whitening product, this series products contains relatively large white or the pigment of light color, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, Kaolin, Pulvis Talci, Muscovitum etc., by the method for physical dispersion, add in product by these physics whitening compositions, these compositions can cover skin surface equably, due to refraction and the reflection of light, can reach the effect temporarily changing skin color, the effect of this instant whitening clearly.This series products can not produce any impact to the melanocyte in skin, and by clean, namely skin can recover the colour of skin originally.
2, chemical whitening product, by adding various whitening active ingredients, such as accelerates epidermal renewal, peels off the melanin that horny layer has been formed; Black corpusculum is suppressed to move to keratinocyte from melanocyte.The formation of check melanin is carried out by the activity of restraint of tyrosinase; By check melanin cell division, reduce the formation that melanocyte quantity carrys out check melanin.The chemical whitening composition that safety is higher, can not produce the whitening effect occurring highly significant in instant or short time.
The product of physics whitening, spreads upon skin surface, can play the effect of instant whitening, effectively can hide the flaw of face, but after cleaning, skin recovers the colour of skin originally; Tyrosine in Skin Cell is under the effect of tryrosinase, by the impact of various factors in environment, be oxidized to DOPA and DOPA quinone gradually, DOPA quinone through a series of metabolic response, is polymerized to 5 again, 6-istain, finally progressively be converted into dermal melanin, the chemical whitening product that safety is higher, it can allow skin absorb, then to melanin generation effect, the effect of slow whitening can be worked to obtain.This two series products self all comes with some shortcomings, and is difficult to the urgent needs to whitening meeting consumer completely.
Summary of the invention
In order to solve the above-mentioned problems in the prior art, the invention provides the compositions with instant and long-acting whitening effect of a kind of physics whitening of employing and the combination of chemical method for whitening.
Technical purpose of the present invention is achieved through the following technical solutions:
Dual whitening emulsion of the present invention, its formula comprises following material according to weight: Margarita powder 0.3 ~ 5.0 part; Narcissus Tazetta L. Var extract 0.3 ~ 5.0 part; Thickening stabilizing agent 0.8 ~ 1.9 part; Emollient 9.0 ~ 22.0 parts; Antioxidant 0.1 ~ 0.3 part; Chelating agen 0.05 ~ 0.10 part; Wetting agent 2.0 ~ 6.0 parts; Antiseptic 0.1 ~ 0.8 part; Solvent is surplus.
Preferably, described formula also comprises 0.4 ~ 2.0 part of anatrophic.
In the present invention, described Narcissus Tazetta L. Var extract Narcissus Tazetta L. Var used is the Narcissus Tazetta L. Var of resting state, and this extract can keep the state of skin young healthy, the cell disorder that the too fast propagation of prevention cell causes, effectively can slow down the propagation of melanocyte, thus the formation of check melanin.
In the present invention, the particle diameter of described Margarita powder is 10 ~ 30 microns.The Margarita powder of this particle diameter can bring thinner greasy skinfeel to product, also has certain screening flaw whitening function.Particle diameter is too large, and the obvious grains of sand can be brought to feel; Particle diameter is too little, and its screening flaw whitening function is not reflected.
In the present invention, described thickening stabilizing agent is one or more the mixture in pectin, xanthan gum and gellan gum;
In the present invention, preferably, described emollient is isononyl isononanoate and/or olive oil.
In the present invention, preferably, described antioxidant is tocopherol acetas; Described chelating agen is EDETATE SODIUM; Described wetting agent is glycerol; Described antiseptic is caprylyl glycol; Described solvent is deionized water.
In the present invention, preferably, described anatrophic is beta glucan, and it provides potent moisturizing to have fabulous skinfeel simultaneously, and energy active cell vigor, improve skin smoothness has anti-inflammatory effects simultaneously.
Another technical scheme of the present invention is: a kind of preparation method preparing described dual whitening emulsion, comprises the following steps:
1), prepare Narcissus Tazetta L. Var extract: Narcissus Tazetta L. Var is soaked 8 ~ 12 hours in water, collect extract and vapor away the moisture of this extract 50%, filtering, homogenizing, Narcissus Tazetta L. Var extract and get final product;
2), component A preparation: emollient, antioxidant are added successively in oil phase pot, open and to stir and mixing speed is 25 ~ 35 revs/min, then add thickening stabilizing agent, Margarita powder be warming up to 60 DEG C ~ 65 DEG C, be incubated 5 ~ 10 minutes;
3), B component preparation: solvent, chelating agen, wetting agent are added in emulsifying pot successively, are uniformly mixed, and be warming up to 60 DEG C ~ 65 DEG C, by step 2) obtained by component A suction, homogenizing, cooling;
4), the preparation of whitening emulsion: by antiseptic, Narcissus Tazetta L. Var extract mix homogeneously or by antiseptic, anatrophic, Narcissus Tazetta L. Var extract mix homogeneously, then added to step 3) obtained by B component in, stir, be incubated 5 ~ 10 minutes; Discharging when being cooled to 35 ~ 40 DEG C adjust ph to 4.5 ~ 6.5.
In the present invention, preferably, described step 2) described in Margarita powder will through high pressure draught pulverization process, its Parameter Conditions is: high pressure draught is 5 atmospheric pressure, air pressure 0.5Mpa, air consumption: 3 cubes/minute.
Beneficial effect of the present invention:
Compared with prior art, dual whitening emulsion of the present invention has beneficial effect:
1, micron order Margarita powder in formula of the present invention, is rich in multivitamin and mineral, has the effect of whitening of calming the nerves.It and skin affinity are high, can be adsorbed on skin surface, play the effect of instant whitening.In addition, Margarita powder is through high pressure draught pulverization process, and Margarita powder surface is polished into the spheroid of unusual light, and it can fill and lead up wrinkle and the rough surface of skin surface, not only can provide good skinfeel, and skin can be allowed more glossy.
2, the Narcissus Tazetta L. Var extract in formula of the present invention, wherein Narcissus Tazetta L. Var is selected from the Narcissus Tazetta L. Var of resting state, it contains the state that a kind of particular matter dormin (domin) enough keeps skin young healthy, the cell disorder that the too fast propagation of prevention cell causes, effectively can slow down the propagation of melanocyte, thus the formation of check melanin.
3, the formula of the present invention Margarita powder of simultaneously selecting safety high and narcissus extract, they have the effect of Synergistic, compared with traditional whitening composition, as mercurous compound, hydroquinone, vitamin C acid and derivant, fruit acid etc. are safer, stable, effective.Margarita powder meta-alkalescence, should not keep contacting for a long time with skin, and water bulb extract is faintly acid, can in and the alkalescence of Margarita powder, and can promote that the trace element in Margarita powder infiltrates, these trace element effectively can resist free radical, improve the activity of SOD, reduce the activity of tryrosinase, reduce melanic generation, there is the whitening effect of Synergistic.
4, dual whitening emulsion of the present invention is not containing emulsifying agent and surfactant, is a kind of suspension thick stabilization system of uniqueness, and it is not containing PEG composition, not Han diox, and not containing mineralogical composition, the safety of formula is high, goes for all kinds of skin quality and all kinds of crowd.
Accompanying drawing explanation
1. Fig. 1 is instant whitening effect evaluation comparison diagram (left figure is reference examples 1 whitening emulsion design sketch, and right figure is the design sketch of whitening emulsion of the present invention) of whitening emulsion of the present invention.
Detailed description of the invention
In order to make the object, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention definitely, below the preferred embodiments of the present invention are described in detail.
Embodiment 1-3
Whitening emulsion preparation method of the present invention, its step is as follows:
1, Narcissus Tazetta L. Var is soaked 8 ~ 12 hours in water, collect extract and vapor away the moisture of this extract 50% thus the extract of acquisition high concentration; Described high concentration extract is filtered to remove solid impurity, then homogenizing, Narcissus Tazetta L. Var extract and get final product;
2, the preparation of component A: isononyl isononanoate, tocopherol acetas, olive oil are added successively in oil phase pot, open and stir, mixing speed is 30 revs/min, then adds pectin, xanthan gum, gellan gum, Margarita powder be warming up to 60 DEG C ~ 65 DEG C, be incubated 5 ~ 10 minutes.
3, the preparation of B component: deionized water, EDETATE SODIUM, glycerol are added successively in emulsifying pot, unlatching is uniformly mixed, and be warming up to 60 DEG C ~ 65 DEG C, by the slowly suction of the raw material of component A, speed controlling is at 30 revs/min, and homogenizing 10 minutes, is cooled to 40 ~ 50 DEG C;
4, the preparation of component C: by caprylyl glycol, beta glucan, Narcissus Tazetta L. Var extract mix homogeneously, when the emulsifying pot of step 3 drops to 45 DEG C, then add it and be added in emulsifying pot, stir, is incubated 10 minutes; Discharging when being cooled to 38 DEG C adjust ph to 4.5 ~ 6.5.
Above preparation method is applicable to embodiment 1-3 and reference examples 1.
Each component proportion of table 1 whitening emulsion
Effect example
One, whitening effect evaluation
1, instant whitening effect evaluation
Test sample: embodiment 1, reference examples 1 reference examples 1 whitening emulsion
Testing procedure:
1), that the skin clean in elbow portion is clean and dry;
2), embodiment 1 emulsion of appropriate (about 0.2 gram) and reference examples 1 whitening emulsion are evenly coated on skin;
3), contrast photo is taken with photograph after 5 minutes;
4), with the naked eye whitening effect is evaluated and tested.
Test instrunment: Nikon slr camera D7000
Test result: as seen from Figure 1, whitening emulsion of the present invention (embodiment 1), compared with the whitening emulsion of reference examples 1, has obvious whitening effect.
2, long-acting whitening effect evaluation
Test sample: embodiment 1, reference examples 1 whitening emulsion
Test purpose: use skin-protection product continuously under normal circumstances by adult female volunteer, assesses this skin-protection product effect in whitening.
Volunteer's age: 25 ~ 44 years old
Sex: women
Volunteer's number: 30 people
Volunteer's face skin quality: blee is obscure, matt
Whitening effect: buccal (left and right face respectively selects 1 target site)
Product frequency of utilization: uniform application after clean, every day 2 times, sooner or later respectively once, left face is embodiment 1 sample, and right face is reference examples 1 whitening emulsion.After use product surrounding, (Day28) and use product are after eight weeks (Day56)
Test event: long-acting whitening effect
Appraisal procedure: the mode adopting questionnaire survey, understands experimenter uses the improvement situation of rear colour of skin evaluation to product for 4 weeks and 8 weeks after using product.Judging quota is mainly divided into: whitening effect.Result is divided into: DeGrain, effect are generally, more obviously, clearly.
1), after use product surrounding (Day28)
Table 2 whitening emulsion of the present invention uses the questionnaire table after 28 days
2), use product after eight weeks (Day56)
Table 3 whitening emulsion of the present invention uses the questionnaire table after 56 days
Conclusion: use whitening emulsion of the present invention, the whitening effect statistics display of 28 days, the volunteer of nearly 50% feels there is obvious whitening effect.And the whitening effect statistics display of 56 days, the volunteer of nearly 76.6% feels there is obvious whitening effect.
Two, Product Safety assessment (human skin patch result)
Evaluation methodology:
1) tested material: embodiment 1
2) negative control: blank.
3) experimenter: totally 30 people, male 10 people, female 20 people, at 18 ~ 40 years old age, meets experimenter and volunteers inclusion criteria.
4) speckle method for testing: with closed patch test method, tested material being about 0.02ml ~ 0.025ml is applied in speckle examination device, external special adhesive tape sticks in the bent side of experimenter's forearm, tested material is removed after 24 hours, 30min after removal tested material speckle examination device, dermoreaction is observed, by its result of dermoreaction grade scale record in " cosmetics health specification " (version in 2007) after impression disappears.
5) evaluation of result: record reaction result by table 1 (skin adverse reaction grade scale).
Table 4 human body skin untoward reaction grade scale
6) result of the test:
Table 5 cosmetics human skin patch result
Human skin patch result shows:
1), in embodiment 1-3,30 subjects skin are all negative reaction (grading system: 0 grade).According to " cosmetics health specification " (version in 2007) human body skin class paste test criterion, sample to human body without skin adverse reaction.
2), reference examples 1 (reference examples 1 whitening emulsion) has 2 experimenters to occur 1 order reaction.
Obviously, the above embodiment of the present invention is only for example of the present invention is clearly described, and is not the restriction to embodiments of the present invention.For those of ordinary skill in the field, can also make other changes in different forms on the basis of the above description.Here cannot give exhaustive to all embodiments.Every belong to technical scheme of the present invention the apparent change of extending out or variation be still in the row of protection scope of the present invention.