CN104562401A - Structure and production method of weft-knitted jacquard shoe upper material - Google Patents

Structure and production method of weft-knitted jacquard shoe upper material Download PDF

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Publication number
CN104562401A
CN104562401A CN201410781754.5A CN201410781754A CN104562401A CN 104562401 A CN104562401 A CN 104562401A CN 201410781754 A CN201410781754 A CN 201410781754A CN 104562401 A CN104562401 A CN 104562401A
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China
Prior art keywords
jacquard
weft
fabric
vamp
weave
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Granted
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CN201410781754.5A
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Chinese (zh)
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CN104562401B (en
Inventor
万爱兰
丛洪莲
蒋高明
楚玉松
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Jiangnan University
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Jiangnan University
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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02Setting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/08Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamino acids or polypeptides
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04Outerwear; Protective garments
    • D10B2501/043Footwear

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Abstract

The invention belongs to the field of textiles and provides a structure and a production method of a weft-knitted jacquard shoe upper material. According to the weft-knitted jacquard shoe upper material, terylen low-melting-point color filaments with skin-core structures are adopted, the meshes, esthetic appearance and air permeability of the shoe upper material are realized by utilizing air-layer jacquard tissues as fundamental tissues, loop accumulation tissues or loop transfer tissues on a dual-way jacquard dual-side loop transfer round weft machine; by virtue of cooperation between colors and structural jacquards, functional sections of the shoe upper material are realized; during aftertreatment, a skin layer is fused at a certain temperature under a certain pressure, so that dual-side weft-knitted jacquard shoe upper fabric loops are mutually glued, then cooled and solidified, so that the shoe upper material with appropriate rigidity and hand feeling is obtained; spandex can also be added, so that the elasticity and the density of the fabric are enhanced. The weft-knitted jacquard shoe upper material is variable in pattern, color and style, beautiful in appearance, portable and flexible, favorable in air permeability and comfort in wear; traditional working procedures of cutting, sewing, bonding and the like for shoe materials are not needed, so that the equipment investment and the labor cost are lowered.

Description

A kind of structure of weft jacquard vamp material and production method
Technical field:
Patent of the present invention relates to a kind of vamp material of sport footwear, is specifically related to structure and the production method of weft jacquard vamp material.
Background technology:
Traditional shoe-making industry adopts sewing machine flow process, and the style on vamp is spliced by the leather of the different color blocks of cutting, artificial suede etc. material, and vamp style is more complicated, and process more loaded down with trivial details, cost is higher.Adopt the vamp material of knitting method braiding, can substitute sewing machine technique with textile machinery manufactures vamp on the one hand, reduces cost of labor; Utilize knitting Jacquard Technique on the other hand, freely design by corresponding CAD software, the style of vamp is unrestricted.
Knitting vamp material also has the following advantages as the vamp material of sport footwear: knitting vamp material is produced and is different from other leathers, the production of rubber boots material can produce larger pollution, has the advantage of low-carbon environment-friendly; Knitting vamp material adopts thermo-fuse or the braiding of low melting point sheath-core yarn, and the light softness of vamp adds knitting coil own and eyed structure, vamp good permeability; Knitting vamp material adopts jacquard process, and style, color, varied styles, beautiful design, can meet the demand of customer profile's fashion.
At present, knitting vamp material is widely used.Warp-knitted spacer fabric is the vamp material applied the earliest, due to the braided nature through compiling, the mesh of various shape and size can be formed on fabric, sport footwear can be met to breathe freely comfortable requirement, and warp knitting machine possesses the feature of high-speed and high-efficiency, output is high, but is difficult to realize jacquard weave vamp because sley bar arranges reason.The development of horizontal volume vamp material rapidly, not only can accomplish the jacquard weave of shades of colour and structure, can also utilize knitting and local braiding, realize the one-body molded of vamp material, do not need cutting completely, but constantly turns round because of straight-bar machines cam system and make its output lower.The weft-knitted vamp of circle just rises, and have obvious advantage by contrast, not only can form the pattern effect of shades of colour and structure, and efficiency is higher than horizontal volume.
Summary of the invention:
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of structure and production method of weft jacquard vamp material, two-way jacquard double-sided barring-on circular knitting machine weaves, low melting point core-skin look silk is adopted to be raw material, air layer figured texture weave is elementary organization, adopt different institutional frameworks to meet the performance requirement of vamp material in conjunction with vamp function division, and through weft jacquard vamp material that finishing process obtains.Can not only realize shades of colour jacquard weave and structure jacquard weave, efficiency is also higher.
For realizing above object, the technical scheme that patent of the present invention adopts is:
A kind of weft jacquard vamp material, it is characterized in that: adopt the terylene low melting point look silk with skin-core structure to weave, the fusing point of the cortex construction of sheath-core yarn is 160-180 DEG C, fineness is 600-800D, cortex melting under uniform temperature and pressure during Final finishing, make double side weft knitting jacquard weave vamp fabric coil inter-adhesive, cooling Post RDBMS, thus obtain the vamp material with suitable stiffness and feel; Also spandex can be added, to strengthen elasticity and the density of fabric.
The structure of described a kind of weft jacquard vamp material, is characterized in that: elementary organization adopts dichromatism air layer figured texture weave, makes fabric two sides have similar flower pattern effect and style; Also the little sesame point effect of three look jacquard weaves can be adopted.Toe-cap (A district) can adopt mesh or dichromatism small jacquard structure, and eyed structure is many to be realized by tuck or barring-on tissue, to improve the attractive in appearance of fabric and gas permeability; Dichromatism small jacquard can repeatedly connect positive and negative fabric, makes fabric closely knit, strengthens the performances such as the bursting of fabric; Toe-cap, upper of a shoe both sides (B district) adopt tuck or barring-on organization formation eyed structure, to meet sport footwear gas permeability; The connection in toe-cap and sole connecting portion (C district) and different mesh region (B district) adopts the thin tissue of air layer; Heels (D district) adopts closely knit dichromatism small jacquard or twill-weave structure; Ground tissue (E district) is little diamond shaped air Rotating fields.
Another concrete technical scheme of the present invention there is provided a kind of production method of weft jacquard vamp material, it is characterized in that: concrete steps are:
The first step, raw material are selected: select the terylene low melting point look silk with skin-core structure, the fusing point of the cortex construction of sheath-core yarn is 160-180 DEG C, and fineness is 600-800D.
Second step, machine choice: select plane No. to be that E12 or E14 has two-way jacquard double-sided barring-on circular knitting machine.
3rd step, pattern data: in patterning design software, the pattern data information of the color jacquard weave that the function division of the vamp material designed as required adopts and structure jacquard weave, utilizes different colours to distinguish color and structure jacquard weave region; Pattern data information is converted to the upper machine file controlling digitalized needle selecting machine work, so that looming weaving.
4th step, looming weaving: upper machine file is imported to machine control system, two-way cam system weaves a line, a kind of look silk worn by thread-carrier corresponding to first via cam system, and another kind of look silk is worn on the second tunnel, thus ensures that fabric has jacquard weave effect and the thickness of vamp material requirement; Elementary organization adopts dichromatism air layer figured texture weave, and cyclinder needle and coverer weave corresponding dyed yarn according to flower pattern effect respectively under slide cam selector effect, and fabric positive and negative has similar stylistic effects; Eyed structure is formed at tuck cam or under turning over the effect of pin triangle.
5th step, Final finishing are shaped: finishing process comprises washing, sizing, cutting etc., during sizing, temperature is 120-150 DEG C, and apply certain pressure to fabric, make vamp material smooth, laser can be preferably adopted to carry out cutting along the outline line of vamp, to ensure that cutting is accurately quick, efficiency is high.
The technical problem that the present invention solves is:
Adopt the low melting point look silk with skin-core structure, two-way jacquard double-sided barring-on circular knitting machine utilizes the sport footwear face material of air layer figured texture weave and tuck or barring-on organization development, the cooperation of color and structure is utilized to realize the function division of vamp material, through finishing process such as special washing, sizing, cuttings, fabric is made to reach thickness and the hardness of vamp material requirement.The invention has the advantages that provided weft jacquard vamp material, style, color, varied styles, handsome in appearance; Vamp material is produced and is different from other leathers, rubber boots material produces larger pollution when producing, and circular knitting machine equipment directly weaves shaping, has the advantage of low-carbon environment-friendly; Adopt core-skin look silk, the light softness of vamp of braiding, add knitting coil own and eyed structure, vamp material good air permeability, comfortable and easy to wear; The operations such as the cutting material without the need to conventional footwear material, all parts shoes are made, be bonded together, production procedure is shortened, and reduces equipment investment and cost of labor.
Accompanying drawing illustrates:
Fig. 1 is the function division schematic diagram of the weft jacquard footwear face material of invention;
Fig. 2 is the institutional framework weave diagram of each subregion of jacquard weave vamp material of invention.
Detailed description of preferred embodiments
For making the present invention become apparent, hereby with preferred embodiment, and accompanying drawing is coordinated to be described in detail below.Should be understood that these embodiments are only not used in for illustration of the present invention to limit the scope of the invention.In addition should be understood that those skilled in the art can make various changes or modifications the present invention after having read the present invention and having told about content, these equivalent form of values fall within the application's appended claims limited range equally.
Shown in composition graphs 1 and Fig. 2, following embodiment adopts structure and the production method being suitable for production weft jacquard vamp material of the present invention.
Detailed description of the invention:
Fig. 1 is a kind of function division schematic diagram of weft jacquard vamp material, Fig. 2 is the institutional framework weave diagram of each subregion of jacquard weave vamp material, two-way jacquard double-sided barring-on circular knitting machine weaves, low melting point core-skin look silk is adopted to be raw material, air layer figured texture weave is elementary organization, adopt different institutional frameworks to meet the performance requirement of vamp material in conjunction with vamp function division, and process the weft jacquard vamp material obtained through Final finishing.
Described weft jacquard vamp material, it is characterized in that: adopt the terylene low melting point look silk braiding with skin-core structure, the fusing point of the cortex construction of sheath-core yarn is 180 DEG C, fineness is 600D, cortex melting under uniform temperature and pressure during Final finishing, make double side weft knitting jacquard weave vamp fabric coil inter-adhesive, cooling Post RDBMS, obtains the vamp material with suitable stiffness and feel.
The structure of described weft jacquard vamp material, is characterized in that: elementary organization adopts dichromatism air layer figured texture weave, makes fabric two sides have similar flower pattern effect and style.Toe-cap A district can adopt mesh or dichromatism small jacquard structure, and eyed structure is many to be realized by tuck or barring-on tissue, to improve the attractive in appearance of fabric and gas permeability; Dichromatism small jacquard can repeatedly connect positive and negative fabric, makes fabric closely knit, strengthens the performances such as the bursting of fabric; Toe-cap, B district, upper of a shoe both sides adopt tuck or barring-on organization formation eyed structure, to meet sport footwear gas permeability; The connection in toe-cap and sole connecting portion C district and B district, different mesh region adopts the thin tissue of air layer; Heels (D district) adopts closely knit dichromatism small jacquard or twill-weave structure; Ground tissue (E district) is little diamond shaped air Rotating fields.
A production method for weft jacquard vamp material, comprises the steps:
The first step, raw material are selected: select the terylene low melting point look silk with skin-core structure, the fusing point of the cortex construction of sheath-core yarn is 180 DEG C, and fineness is 600D.
Second step, machine choice: select plane No. to be that E12 or E14 has two-way jacquard double-sided barring-on circular knitting machine.
3rd step, pattern data: in patterning design software, the pattern data information of the color jacquard weave that the function division of the vamp material designed as required adopts and structure jacquard weave, utilizes different colours to distinguish color and structure jacquard weave region; Pattern data information is converted to the upper machine file controlling digitalized needle selecting machine work, so that looming weaving.
4th step, looming weaving: the control system upper machine file being imported to machine, two-way cam system weaves a line, blue look silk worn by thread-carrier corresponding to first via cam system, and green look silk is worn on the second tunnel, ensures that fabric has jacquard weave effect and the thickness of vamp material requirement; Elementary organization adopts dichromatism air layer figured texture weave, and cyclinder needle and coverer weave corresponding dyed yarn according to flower pattern effect respectively under slide cam selector effect, and fabric positive and negative has similar stylistic effects; Eyed structure is formed at tuck cam or under turning over the effect of pin triangle.
5th step, Final finishing are shaped: finishing process comprises washing, sizing, cutting etc., setting machine design temperature is 130 DEG C, pressure is 12kPa, transfer rate is 1 m/min, make vamp material smooth, laser is adopted to carry out cutting along the outline line of vamp, to ensure that cutting is accurately quick, efficiency is high.

Claims (5)

1. a weft jacquard vamp material, two-way jacquard double-sided barring-on circular knitting machine weaves, low melting point core-skin look silk is adopted to be raw material, air layer figured texture weave is elementary organization, adopt different institutional frameworks to meet the performance requirement of vamp material in conjunction with vamp function division, and through Final finishing obtain weft jacquard vamp material.
2. weft jacquard vamp material according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: adopt the terylene low melting point look silk braiding with skin-core structure, the fusing point of the cortex construction of sheath-core yarn is 160-180 DEG C, fineness is 600-800D, cortex melting under uniform temperature and pressure during Final finishing, make double side weft knitting jacquard weave vamp fabric coil inter-adhesive, cooling Post RDBMS, thus obtain the vamp material with suitable stiffness and feel; Also spandex can be added, to strengthen elasticity and the density of fabric.
3. the structure of weft jacquard vamp material according to claim 1, is characterized in that: elementary organization adopts dichromatism air layer figured texture weave, makes fabric two sides have similar flower pattern effect and style; Also the little sesame point effect of three look jacquard weave reverse side can be adopted.Toe-cap (A district) can adopt mesh or dichromatism small jacquard structure, and eyed structure is many to be realized by tuck or barring-on tissue, to improve the attractive in appearance of fabric and gas permeability; Dichromatism small jacquard can repeatedly connect positive and negative fabric, makes fabric closely knit, strengthens the performances such as the bursting of fabric; Toe-cap, upper of a shoe both sides (B district) adopt tuck or barring-on organization formation eyed structure, to meet sport footwear gas permeability; The connection in toe-cap and sole connecting portion (C district) and different mesh region (B district) adopts the thin tissue of air layer; Heels (D district) adopts closely knit dichromatism small jacquard or twill-weave structure; Ground tissue (E district) is little diamond shaped air Rotating fields.
4. the production method of the weft jacquard vamp material according to claim 1 and 3, is characterized in that: during knitting, can be that E12 or E14 etc. has in two-way jacquard double-sided barring-on circular knitting machine and weave in plane No.; Two-way cam system forms a line, and a kind of look silk worn by thread-carrier corresponding to first via cam system, and another kind of look silk is worn on the second tunnel, thus ensures that fabric has jacquard weave effect and the thickness of vamp material requirement; Elementary organization adopts dichromatism air layer figured texture weave, and cyclinder needle and coverer weave corresponding dyed yarn according to flower pattern effect respectively under slide cam selector effect, and fabric positive and negative has similar stylistic effects; Eyed structure is formed at tuck cam or under turning over the effect of pin triangle.
5. the finishing process of the weft jacquard vamp material according to claim 1,2 and 4, it is characterized in that: finishing process comprises washing, sizing, cutting etc., during sizing, temperature is 120-150 DEG C, and apply certain pressure to fabric, make vamp material smooth, can preferably adopt laser to carry out cutting along the outline line of vamp, to ensure that cutting is accurately quick, efficiency is high.
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Cited By (14)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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CN106048877A (en) * 2016-06-17 2016-10-26 江南大学 Warp knitting machine for producing single layer structure three-dimensional jacquard weave vamp, and production method thereof
CN107157016A (en) * 2016-03-07 2017-09-15 重庆股份有限公司 Method and system for manufacturing upper of a shoe
CN107723907A (en) * 2017-10-31 2018-02-23 福建铁工机智能机器人有限公司 A kind of preparation of full shaping 3D vamps and vamp embossing are integrally formed processing technology
CN107988688A (en) * 2017-12-11 2018-05-04 晋江百润织造有限公司 A kind of weaving of ventilative Sandwich screen-cloth
CN108342819A (en) * 2017-01-25 2018-07-31 上海织遇织品有限公司 It is knitted boots and preparation method thereof
CN108588990A (en) * 2018-04-20 2018-09-28 江南大学 The two-way jacquard weave functional fabric of weft knitting and its application that a kind of graphene fiber makes
CN110172779A (en) * 2019-05-28 2019-08-27 塑晟机械(嘉兴)有限公司 A kind of dedicated knitting mechanism of 3D vamp
CN110353344A (en) * 2019-05-29 2019-10-22 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 A kind of integrally formed knitting shoes production technology and a kind of knitting shoes
CN110709548A (en) * 2017-04-07 2020-01-17 耐克创新有限合伙公司 Knitted textile, method of forming the same, and articles of apparel, such as articles of footwear, incorporating the knitted textile
CN111254560A (en) * 2020-03-06 2020-06-09 福建泉州凹凸精密机械有限公司 Knitting process for meshes of circular knitting machine
CN111549432A (en) * 2020-05-18 2020-08-18 福建华峰新材料有限公司 Weft-knitted double-faced jacquard fabric with air permeability and heat retention and production method thereof
CN112725993A (en) * 2020-12-23 2021-04-30 晋江百润织造有限公司 Hollow three-layer multi-layer knitted fabric, knitting method and knitted vamp
CN111005137B (en) * 2019-12-20 2021-08-13 福建华峰新材料有限公司 Fishing thread imitation electric embroidery weft knitting vamp material and production method thereof
CN113756001A (en) * 2021-09-22 2021-12-07 泉州市达和丰针织有限公司 Preparation method of double-faced jacquard knitted vamp

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CN107157016B (en) * 2016-03-07 2020-06-09 重庆股份有限公司 Method and system for manufacturing shoe uppers
CN107157016A (en) * 2016-03-07 2017-09-15 重庆股份有限公司 Method and system for manufacturing upper of a shoe
CN106048877A (en) * 2016-06-17 2016-10-26 江南大学 Warp knitting machine for producing single layer structure three-dimensional jacquard weave vamp, and production method thereof
CN108342819A (en) * 2017-01-25 2018-07-31 上海织遇织品有限公司 It is knitted boots and preparation method thereof
CN108342819B (en) * 2017-01-25 2020-06-05 上海织遇织品有限公司 Knitted boot and manufacturing method thereof
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CN110709548A (en) * 2017-04-07 2020-01-17 耐克创新有限合伙公司 Knitted textile, method of forming the same, and articles of apparel, such as articles of footwear, incorporating the knitted textile
CN107723907A (en) * 2017-10-31 2018-02-23 福建铁工机智能机器人有限公司 A kind of preparation of full shaping 3D vamps and vamp embossing are integrally formed processing technology
CN107723907B (en) * 2017-10-31 2020-01-24 福建铁工机智能机器人有限公司 Preparation of full-formed 3D vamp and vamp embossing integrated forming processing technology
CN107988688A (en) * 2017-12-11 2018-05-04 晋江百润织造有限公司 A kind of weaving of ventilative Sandwich screen-cloth
CN108588990A (en) * 2018-04-20 2018-09-28 江南大学 The two-way jacquard weave functional fabric of weft knitting and its application that a kind of graphene fiber makes
CN110172779A (en) * 2019-05-28 2019-08-27 塑晟机械(嘉兴)有限公司 A kind of dedicated knitting mechanism of 3D vamp
CN110353344B (en) * 2019-05-29 2021-07-02 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 Integrally-formed knitted shoe production process and knitted shoe
CN110353344A (en) * 2019-05-29 2019-10-22 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 A kind of integrally formed knitting shoes production technology and a kind of knitting shoes
CN111005137B (en) * 2019-12-20 2021-08-13 福建华峰新材料有限公司 Fishing thread imitation electric embroidery weft knitting vamp material and production method thereof
CN111254560A (en) * 2020-03-06 2020-06-09 福建泉州凹凸精密机械有限公司 Knitting process for meshes of circular knitting machine
CN111254560B (en) * 2020-03-06 2021-12-14 福建泉州凹凸精密机械有限公司 Knitting process for meshes of circular knitting machine
CN111549432A (en) * 2020-05-18 2020-08-18 福建华峰新材料有限公司 Weft-knitted double-faced jacquard fabric with air permeability and heat retention and production method thereof
CN112725993A (en) * 2020-12-23 2021-04-30 晋江百润织造有限公司 Hollow three-layer multi-layer knitted fabric, knitting method and knitted vamp
CN113756001A (en) * 2021-09-22 2021-12-07 泉州市达和丰针织有限公司 Preparation method of double-faced jacquard knitted vamp

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