CN104562401B - A kind of structure and production method of weft jacquard vamp material - Google Patents
A kind of structure and production method of weft jacquard vamp material Download PDFInfo
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- CN104562401B CN104562401B CN201410781754.5A CN201410781754A CN104562401B CN 104562401 B CN104562401 B CN 104562401B CN 201410781754 A CN201410781754 A CN 201410781754A CN 104562401 B CN104562401 B CN 104562401B
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- jacquard
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/08—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamino acids or polypeptides
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
- D10B2501/043—Footwear
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
Abstract
The invention belongs to field of textiles, it provides a kind of structure and production method of weft jacquard vamp material.The weft jacquard vamp material, using the terylene low melting point color silk of skin-core structure, with air layer figured texture weave as elementary organization in two-way jacquard double-sided barring-on circular knitting machine, tuck or barring-on tissue realize the mesh of vamp material and attractive in appearance and gas permeability, the function division of vamp material is realized using the cooperation of color and structure jacquard weave, cortex is melted under uniform temperature and pressure during Final finishing, make double side weft knitting jacquard weave vamp fabric coil inter-adhesive, cooling solidify afterwards, so as to obtain the vamp material with suitable stiffness and feel;Also spandex can be added, to strengthen the elasticity and density of fabric.Weft jacquard vamp material of the invention, style, color, varied styles are handsome in appearance, light softness, good air permeability, comfortable and easy to wear;Cutting, sewing, bonding without traditional footwear material, etc. operation, reduce equipment investment and cost of labor.
Description
Technical field:
Patent of the present invention is related to a kind of vamp material of sport footwear, and in particular to the structure of weft jacquard vamp material and life
Product method.
Background technology:
Traditional shoe-making industry uses sewing machine flow, and the style on vamp is by the leather, artificial of the different color blocks for cutting
Chamois leather etc. material is spliced, and vamp style is more complicated, processes more cumbersome, and cost is higher.Woven using knitting method
Vamp material, on the one hand can substitute sewing machine technique with textile machinery manufacture vamp, reduce cost of labor;On the other hand it is sharp
With knitting Jacquard Technique, freely designed by corresponding CAD software, the style of vamp is unrestricted.
Knitting vamp material has further the advantage that as the vamp material of sport footwear:Knitting vamp material production is different from
Other leathers, the production of rubber footwear material can produce larger pollution, the advantage with low-carbon environment-friendly;Knitting vamp material is using hot melt
Silk or low melting point sheath-core yarn braiding, the light softness of vamp, add it is knitting itself coil and eyed structure, vamp good permeability;
Knitting vamp material uses jacquard process, and style, color, varied styles, beautiful design can meet the need of customer profile's fashion
Ask.
At present, knitting vamp material has been obtained for being widely applied.Warp-knitted spacer fabric is using earliest vamp material
Material, due to warp-knit braided nature, can form variously-shaped and size mesh on fabric, can meet sport footwear ventilative easypro
Suitable requirement, and tricot machine, the characteristics of possess high-speed and high-efficiency, yield is high, but because sley bar arrangement reason is difficult to jacquard weave footwear
Face.Horizontal volume vamp material quickly grows, and can not only accomplish the jacquard weave of shades of colour and structure, can also utilize knitting drawn game
Portion weaves, and realizes being integrally formed for vamp material, and completely without cutting, but constantly revolution makes its yield because of straight-bar machines cam system
It is relatively low.Circle weft knitting vamp just rises, and by contrast with obvious advantage, can not only form the pattern of shades of colour and structure
Effect, and efficiency compiles high than horizontal.
The content of the invention:
It is double in two-way jacquard weave it is an object of the invention to provide a kind of structure and production method of weft jacquard vamp material
Woven in the barring-on circular knitting machine of face, it is raw material to use low melting point core-skin color silk, and air layer figured texture weave is elementary organization, with reference to
Vamp function division uses different institutional frameworks to meet the performance requirement of vamp material, and is obtained by finishing process
Weft jacquard vamp material.Shades of colour jacquard weave and structure jacquard weave can not only be realized, efficiency is also higher.
To realize object above, the technical scheme that patent of the present invention is used is:
A kind of weft jacquard vamp material, it is characterised in that:Compiled using the terylene low melting point color silk with skin-core structure
Knit, the fusing point of the cortex construction of sheath-core yarn is 160-180 DEG C, and fineness is 600-800D, during Final finishing cortex in uniform temperature and
Melted under pressure, make double side weft knitting jacquard weave vamp fabric coil inter-adhesive, solidify afterwards are cooled down, so as to obtain with suitable stiffness
With the vamp material of feel;Also spandex can be added, to strengthen the elasticity and density of fabric.
A kind of structure of described weft jacquard vamp material, it is characterised in that:Elementary organization is carried using dichromatism air layer
Flower tissue, makes fabric two sides have similar flower pattern effect and style;The small sesame point effect of three color jacquard weaves can also be used.Toe-cap
(A areas) can use mesh or dichromatism small jacquard structure, and eyed structure is realized by tuck or barring-on tissue more, to improve U.S. of fabric
See and gas permeability;Dichromatism small jacquard can repeatedly connect positive and negative fabric, make fabric closely knit, strengthen the performances such as the bursting of fabric;
Toe-cap, upper of a shoe both sides (B areas) organize the formation of eyed structure using tuck or barring-on, to meet sport footwear gas permeability;Toe-cap and footwear
Bottom connecting portion (C areas) and the thin tissue for being connected by air layer of different meshes region (B areas);Heel of a shoe (D areas) is using close
Real dichromatism small jacquard or twill-weave structure;Ground tissue (E areas) is small diamond shaped air Rotating fields.
Another concrete technical scheme of the invention there is provided a kind of production method of weft jacquard vamp material, and it is special
Levy and be:Concretely comprise the following steps:
The first step, raw material selection:From the terylene low melting point color silk with skin-core structure, the cortex construction of sheath-core yarn it is molten
Point is 160-180 DEG C, and fineness is 600-800D.
Second step, machine choice:Selection machine number two-way jacquard double-sided barring-on circular knitting machine for E12 or E14 has.
3rd step, pattern data:In patterning design software, the function division of the vamp material for designing as needed is adopted
Color jacquard weave and the pattern data information of structure jacquard weave, color and structure jacquard region are distinguished using different colours;Will flower
Type data message is converted into controlling the upper machine file of digitalized needle selecting machine work, so as to looming weaving.
4th step, looming weaving:Upper machine file is imported into the control system of machine, two-way cam system weaves one
Row, the corresponding yarn guide of first via cam system wears a kind of color silk, and another color silk is worn on the second tunnel, so as to ensure that fabric has
The jacquard weave effect and thickness of vamp material requirement;Elementary organization uses dichromatism air layer figured texture weave, cyclinder needle and the dials crown
Corresponding dyed yarn is woven respectively under slide cam selector effect according to flower pattern effect, and fabric positive and negative has similar stylistic effects;In tuck
Eyed structure is formed under triangle or needle overturning triangle effect.
5th step, Final finishing sizing:Finishing process includes washing, sizing, cutting etc., and temperature is 120-150 during sizing
DEG C, and applying certain pressure to fabric so that vamp material is smooth, it may be preferred to which ground uses laser along the contour line of vamp
Cut, to ensure to cut accurate quick, efficiency high.
Present invention solves the technical problem that being:
Using the low melting point color silk with skin-core structure, air layer jacquard weave is utilized in two-way jacquard double-sided barring-on circular knitting machine
Tissue and tuck or the sport footwear face material of barring-on organization development, the function of vamp material is realized using the cooperation of color and structure
Subregion, through finishing process such as special washing, sizing, cuttings, makes fabric reach the thickness and hardness of vamp material requirement.This
The advantage of invention is provided weft jacquard vamp material, and style, color, varied styles are handsome in appearance;Vamp material is given birth to
Produce and be different from producing larger pollution when other leathers, rubber footwear material are produced, the directly braiding shaping in circular knitting machine equipment, with low
The advantage that carbocyclic ring is protected;Using core-skin color silk, the light softness of vamp of braiding, add it is knitting itself coil and eyed structure, footwear
Facestock material good air permeability, it is comfortable and easy to wear;Cutting material without traditional footwear material, all parts sewing shoes, it is bonded in
The operation such as together, production procedure is shortened, and reduces equipment investment and cost of labor.
Brief description of the drawings:
Fig. 1 is the function division schematic diagram of the weft jacquard footwear material fabric of invention;
Fig. 2 is the institutional framework weave diagram of each subregion of jacquard weave vamp material of invention.
The detailed description of preferred embodiment
To become apparent the present invention, hereby with preferred embodiment, and accompanying drawing is coordinated to be described in detail below.It should be understood that
These embodiments are only illustrative of the invention and is not intended to limit the scope of the invention.In addition, it is to be understood that reading the present invention
Tell about after content, those skilled in the art can make various changes or modifications to the present invention, these equivalent form of values equally fall within
The application appended claims limited range.
With reference to shown in Fig. 1 and Fig. 2, following embodiments are using the structure for being suitable to produce weft jacquard vamp material of the invention
And production method.
Specific embodiment:
Fig. 1 is a kind of function division schematic diagram of weft jacquard vamp material, and Fig. 2 is the group of each subregion of jacquard weave vamp material
Structure weave diagram is knitted, is woven in two-way jacquard double-sided barring-on circular knitting machine, it is raw material, air to use low melting point core-skin color silk
Layer figured texture weave is elementary organization, and using different institutional frameworks with reference to vamp function division will to meet the performance of vamp material
Ask, and the weft jacquard vamp material obtained by Final finishing processing.
Described weft jacquard vamp material, it is characterised in that:Compiled using the terylene low melting point color silk with skin-core structure
Knit, the fusing point of the cortex construction of sheath-core yarn is 180 DEG C, and fineness is 600D, and cortex melts under uniform temperature and pressure during Final finishing
Melt, make double side weft knitting jacquard weave vamp fabric coil inter-adhesive, cool down solidify afterwards, obtain the vamp with suitable stiffness and feel
Material.
The structure of described weft jacquard vamp material, it is characterised in that:Elementary organization uses dichromatism air layer jacquard weave group
Knit, make fabric two sides that there is similar flower pattern effect and style.Toe-cap A areas can use mesh or dichromatism small jacquard structure, mesh
Structure is realized by tuck or barring-on tissue more, to improve the attractive in appearance and gas permeability of fabric;Dichromatism small jacquard can be connected repeatedly just
Reverse side fabric, makes fabric closely knit, strengthens the performances such as the bursting of fabric;Toe-cap, upper of a shoe both sides B areas use tuck or barring-on tissue shape
Into eyed structure, to meet sport footwear gas permeability;Toe-cap is adopted from the connection in sole connecting portion C areas and different mesh region B areas
With the thin tissue of air layer;Heel of a shoe (D areas) uses closely knit dichromatism small jacquard or twill-weave structure;Ground tissue (E areas) is
Small diamond shaped air Rotating fields.
A kind of production method of weft jacquard vamp material, comprises the following steps:
The first step, raw material selection:From the terylene low melting point color silk with skin-core structure, the cortex construction of sheath-core yarn it is molten
Point is 180 DEG C, and fineness is 600D.
Second step, machine choice:Selection machine number two-way jacquard double-sided barring-on circular knitting machine for E12 or E14 has.
3rd step, pattern data:In patterning design software, the function division of the vamp material for designing as needed is adopted
Color jacquard weave and the pattern data information of structure jacquard weave, color and structure jacquard region are distinguished using different colours;Will flower
Type data message is converted into controlling the upper machine file of digitalized needle selecting machine work, so as to looming weaving.
4th step, looming weaving:Upper machine file is imported into the control system of machine, two-way cam system weaves a horizontal stroke
Row, the corresponding yarn guide of first via cam system wears blue color silk, and green color silk is worn on the second tunnel, it is ensured that fabric has vamp material
It is required that jacquard weave effect and thickness;Elementary organization uses dichromatism air layer figured texture weave, and cyclinder needle and coverer are imitated according to flower pattern
Corresponding dyed yarn should be respectively woven under slide cam selector effect, fabric positive and negative has similar stylistic effects;In tuck cam or turn over
Eyed structure is formed under the effect of pin triangle.
5th step, Final finishing sizing:Finishing process includes washing, sizing, cutting etc., and forming machine design temperature is 130
DEG C, pressure be 12kPa, transfer rate be 1 m/min, make vamp material smooth, carried out along the contour line of vamp using laser
Cut, to ensure to cut accurate quick, efficiency high.
Claims (1)
1. a kind of weft jacquard vamp material, is woven, using low melting point core-skin in two-way jacquard double-sided barring-on circular knitting machine
Color silk is raw material, and air layer figured texture weave is elementary organization, uses different institutional frameworks to meet with reference to vamp function division
The performance requirement of vamp material, and the weft jacquard vamp material obtained by Final finishing;
Described weft jacquard vamp material is woven using the terylene low melting point color silk with skin-core structure, with skin-core structure
The fusing point of the cortex construction of terylene low melting point color silk is 160-180 DEG C, and fineness is 600-800D, and cortex is in a constant temperature during Final finishing
Melted under degree and pressure, make double side weft knitting jacquard weave vamp fabric coil inter-adhesive, cool down solidify afterwards, so as to obtain with suitable
The vamp material of hardness and feel;Or spandex is added simultaneously, to strengthen the elasticity and density of fabric;
Described vamp function division uses different institutional frameworks, specifically:Elementary organization uses dichromatism air layer jacquard weave group
Knit, make fabric two sides that there is similar flower pattern effect and style;Or elementary organization uses the three color small sesame points of jacquard weave reverse side
Effect;Toe-cap uses mesh or dichromatism small jacquard structure, and eyed structure is realized by tuck or barring-on tissue more, to improve fabric
Attractive in appearance and gas permeability;Dichromatism small jacquard can repeatedly connect positive and negative fabric, make fabric closely knit, strengthen the Bursting Properties of fabric;
Toe-cap, upper of a shoe both sides organize the formation of eyed structure using tuck or barring-on, to meet sport footwear gas permeability;Toe-cap is connected with sole
The thin tissue for being connected by air layer in the different mesh regions in position and toe-cap, upper of a shoe both sides;Heel of a shoe is using closely knit
Dichromatism small jacquard or twill-weave structure;Be organized as small diamond shaped air Rotating fields;
During knitting, in machine number to be weaved in E12 or E14 has two-way jacquard double-sided barring-on circular knitting machine;Two-way cam system
A row is formed, the corresponding yarn guide of first via cam system wears a kind of color silk, and another color silk is worn on the second tunnel, so as to ensure
Fabric has the jacquard weave effect and thickness of vamp material requirement;Elementary organization use dichromatism air layer figured texture weave, cyclinder needle and
Coverer weaves corresponding dyed yarn respectively according to flower pattern effect under slide cam selector effect, and there is fabric positive and negative similar style to imitate
Really;Eyed structure is formed under tuck cam or needle overturning triangle effect.
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