CN103799586B - Semi-worsted pure-spun-silk smooth overcoating and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Semi-worsted pure-spun-silk smooth overcoating and manufacturing method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN103799586B
CN103799586B CN201410045638.7A CN201410045638A CN103799586B CN 103799586 B CN103799586 B CN 103799586B CN 201410045638 A CN201410045638 A CN 201410045638A CN 103799586 B CN103799586 B CN 103799586B
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China
Prior art keywords
spun silk
spun
silk
overcoating
hair
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Expired - Fee Related
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CN201410045638.7A
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Chinese (zh)
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CN103799586A (en
Inventor
陈丽芬
曹敬农
曹秀明
刘刚
孙金虎
李冰冰
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JIANGSU YANGGUANG HOLDING GROUP Co Ltd
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JIANGSU YANGGUANG HOLDING GROUP Co Ltd
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Priority to CN201410045638.7A priority Critical patent/CN103799586B/en
Publication of CN103799586A publication Critical patent/CN103799586A/en
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Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current
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Abstract

The invention relates to semi-worsted pure-spun-silk smooth overcoating. The semi-worsted pure-spun-silk smooth overcoating is characterized by being woven through 28s/2Nm spun silk warp yarn and 28s/2Nm spun silk weft yarn in a weft stain mode, wherein the 28s/2Nm spun silk warp yarn and the 28s/2Nm spun silk weft yarn are obtained in a semi-worsted mode, the fineness of the spun silk yarn ranges from 11 micrometers to 11.5 microns. The invention further relates to a manufacturing method of the semi-worsted pure-spun-silk smooth overcoating. The surface of the semi-worsted pure-spun-silk smooth overcoating has the effects that wool roots are dense, parallel, level, soft and smooth and the appearance is glossy, graceful and elegant, so that the semi-worsted pure-spun-silk smooth overcoating is high-grade overcoating fabric integrating softness, smoothness, gloss and gorgeousness.

Description

Half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating and preparation method thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of half spinning woollen overcoating, particularly relate to a kind of half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating and preparation method thereof.
Background technology
Tradition woollen overcoating take wool as primary raw material, adopts the carded woolen knitwear of slubbing process route processing; And the fabric made by 100% silkworm silk is at present generally light and thin type, be only applicable to spring and summer season, be not used in woolen fabrics and produce winter dress.
Summary of the invention
For above-mentioned shortcoming, the object of the present invention is to provide a kind of half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating being used in winter dress all made by spun silk yarn.
Technology contents of the present invention is: half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating, it is characterized in that it adopts weft sateen line to weave by half spinning obtained 28s/2Nm spun silk warp thread and 28s/2Nm spun silk weft yarn and forms; Spun silk fineness is 11 ~ 11.5 μm.
Another object of the present invention is to the preparation method that above-mentioned half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating is provided.
The preparation method of half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating, it comprises the steps:
(1), first spun silk is come unstuck, make spun silk obtain residual silkgum content 2 ~ 3 % by weight; Then the spun silk after coming unstuck is dyeed;
(2), by the spun silk after above-mentioned dyeing carry out and hair on mixing willow, and the addition being adopted by wool lubricant spray atomization mode to be directly added in wool lubricant on spun silk during hair is 0.2 ~ 1.0 %owf, the profit weight ratio of wool lubricant is 1:8 ~ 1:15; Add antistatic additive with during hair, the addition of antistatic additive is 1.5 ~ 2.5 % by weight; Be 11 ~ 13% with upper machine regain during hair; With after hair, spun silk is carried out vexed hair, the vexed hair time is 47 ~ 50 hours; Then spun silk is carried out carding through combing machine for fur again, the setting parameter of combing machine for fur is that shaping determines to weigh 16 ~ 17g/5m; Feed gross weight 42 ~ 47g/ time; Cylinder rotating speed 345 ~ 355r/min; Thorn rod rotating speed 950 ~ 1050r/min; Doffing speed 12 ~ 17r/min; Flat-clothing speed 125 ~ 135mm/min; Spun silk after carding obtains spun silk warp thread and spun silk weft yarn through drafting → rove → spun yarn → winder → doubling → winder double twisting again;
(3), weft sateen line is adopted to be woven into spun silk fabric grey cloth on spun silk warp thread obtained in step (2) and spun silk weft yarn;
(4), spun silk fabric grey cloth obtained in step (3) is carried out Final finishing to get product half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating; Postfinishing process: flat eliminate → drying → middle inspection → decatizing → plucking → cropping → wet brush → clot → oven dry → mono-boiling hot → cropping → ripe repaiies → steams brush → finished product.
During Final finishing, flat technique of eliminating is selected to be strictly on guard against that grey cloth produces folding line; Use stainless steel fillet clothing during plucking, pin cloth needle point is sharp, and Duola, cuts, to increase gross density more; The hair clipper edge of a knife needs sharp, prevents cropping from skidding, and produces cropping tool marks.
The present invention adopts half spinning process route, changes slubbing postfinishing process, and the winter dress woollen overcoating utilizing half spinning pure spun silk yarn to make, has expanded the application of spun silk, and technology belongs to blank in industry.
The present invention is advantageously: it is close and concordant, submissive that the face of inventing the half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating made reaches dry foot, the graceful noble effect of gloss appearance, is aly to integrate soft, suitable, sliding, bright, magnificent high-grade overcoating fabric.
Detailed description of the invention
Spun silk fineness is 11 ~ 11.5 μm in the examples below that; Wool lubricant is the SELBANA UN wool lubricant of Kekai Fine Chemical (Shanghai) Co., Ltd., and antistatic additive is the KATAX 570C antistatic additive of Kekai Fine Chemical (Shanghai) Co., Ltd..
Example 1, (1), first spun silk is come unstuck, make spun silk obtain residual silkgum content 2 % by weight; Then the spun silk after coming unstuck is dyeed;
(2), by the spun silk after above-mentioned dyeing carry out and hair on mixing willow, and the addition being adopted by wool lubricant spray atomization mode to be directly added in wool lubricant on spun silk during hair is 0.8%owf, the profit weight ratio of wool lubricant is 1:10; Add antistatic additive with during hair, the addition of antistatic additive is 2.0 % by weight; Be 12% with upper machine regain during hair; With after hair, spun silk is carried out vexed hair, the vexed hair time is 48 hours; Then spun silk is carried out carding through combing machine for fur again, the setting parameter of combing machine for fur is the surely heavy 16.5g/5m of shaping; Feed gross weight 45g/ time; Cylinder rotating speed 350r/min; Thorn rod rotating speed 1000r/min; Doffing speed 15r/min; Flat-clothing speed 130mm/min; Spun silk after carding obtains 28s/2Nm spun silk warp thread and 28s/2Nm spun silk weft yarn through drafting → rove → spun yarn → winder → doubling → winder double twisting again;
(3), weft sateen line is adopted to be woven into spun silk fabric grey cloth on spun silk warp thread obtained in step (2) and spun silk weft yarn;
(4), spun silk fabric grey cloth obtained in step (3) is carried out Final finishing to get product half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating; Postfinishing process: flat eliminate → drying → middle inspection → decatizing → plucking → cropping → wet brush → clot → oven dry → mono-boiling hot → cropping → ripe repaiies → steams brush → finished product.

Claims (1)

1. the preparation method of half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating, it comprises the steps:
(1), first spun silk is come unstuck, make spun silk obtain residual silkgum content 2 ~ 3 % by weight; Then the spun silk after coming unstuck is dyeed;
(2), by the spun silk after above-mentioned dyeing carry out and hair on mixing willow, and the addition being adopted by wool lubricant spray atomization mode to be directly added in wool lubricant on spun silk during hair is 0.2 ~ 1.0 %owf, the profit weight ratio of wool lubricant is 1:8 ~ 1:15; Add antistatic additive with during hair, the addition of antistatic additive is 1.5 ~ 2.5 % by weight; Be 11 ~ 13% with upper machine regain during hair; With after hair, spun silk is carried out vexed hair, the vexed hair time is 47 ~ 50 hours; Then spun silk is carried out carding through combing machine for fur again, the setting parameter of combing machine for fur is that shaping determines to weigh 16 ~ 17g/5m; Feed gross weight 42 ~ 47g/ time; Cylinder rotating speed 345 ~ 355r/min; Thorn rod rotating speed 950 ~ 1050r/min; Doffing speed 12 ~ 17r/min; Flat-clothing speed 125 ~ 135mm/min; Spun silk after carding obtains spun silk warp thread and spun silk weft yarn through drafting → rove → spun yarn → winder → doubling → winder double twisting again;
(3), weft sateen line is adopted to be woven into spun silk fabric grey cloth on spun silk warp thread obtained in step (2) and spun silk weft yarn;
(4), spun silk fabric grey cloth obtained in step (3) is carried out Final finishing to get product half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating; Postfinishing process: flat eliminate → drying → middle inspection → decatizing → plucking → cropping → wet brush → clot → oven dry → mono-boiling hot → cropping → ripe repaiies → steams brush → finished product.
CN201410045638.7A 2014-02-08 2014-02-08 Semi-worsted pure-spun-silk smooth overcoating and manufacturing method thereof Expired - Fee Related CN103799586B (en)

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CN103799586B true CN103799586B (en) 2015-03-11

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CN1083877A (en) * 1992-12-05 1994-03-16 如皋市纺织厂 Air spinning silk-cotton interwoven denim and production method thereof
CN2830439Y (en) * 2005-06-11 2006-10-25 朱国玉 Double-warp silk shell fabric
JP4234181B1 (en) * 2007-08-23 2009-03-04 株式会社村田製作所 Wire grid and manufacturing method thereof
CN101250786B (en) * 2008-03-12 2010-08-04 江苏华西村股份有限公司 Method for producing antimicrobial, electrostatic resistance, warp and weft bi-directional elastic worsted cloth
CN102061549B (en) * 2010-11-23 2012-10-10 张家港市金陵纺织有限公司 Processing method of semi-worsted ultra-thin double-faced overcoating wool fabric

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