CN103799586B - Semi-worsted pure-spun-silk smooth overcoating and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents
Semi-worsted pure-spun-silk smooth overcoating and manufacturing method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN103799586B CN103799586B CN201410045638.7A CN201410045638A CN103799586B CN 103799586 B CN103799586 B CN 103799586B CN 201410045638 A CN201410045638 A CN 201410045638A CN 103799586 B CN103799586 B CN 103799586B
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- spun silk
- spun
- silk
- overcoating
- hair
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- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title abstract 2
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims description 22
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000000314 lubricant Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 230000000996 additive effect Effects 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000009960 carding Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 241000124033 Salix Species 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000000889 atomisation Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000010026 decatizing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000007689 inspection Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000007921 spray Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 2
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000012847 fine chemical Substances 0.000 description 2
- 241000255789 Bombyx mori Species 0.000 description 1
- 208000019300 CLIPPERS Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 208000021930 chronic lymphocytic inflammation with pontine perivascular enhancement responsive to steroids Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001220 stainless steel Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010935 stainless steel Substances 0.000 description 1
Abstract
The invention relates to semi-worsted pure-spun-silk smooth overcoating. The semi-worsted pure-spun-silk smooth overcoating is characterized by being woven through 28s/2Nm spun silk warp yarn and 28s/2Nm spun silk weft yarn in a weft stain mode, wherein the 28s/2Nm spun silk warp yarn and the 28s/2Nm spun silk weft yarn are obtained in a semi-worsted mode, the fineness of the spun silk yarn ranges from 11 micrometers to 11.5 microns. The invention further relates to a manufacturing method of the semi-worsted pure-spun-silk smooth overcoating. The surface of the semi-worsted pure-spun-silk smooth overcoating has the effects that wool roots are dense, parallel, level, soft and smooth and the appearance is glossy, graceful and elegant, so that the semi-worsted pure-spun-silk smooth overcoating is high-grade overcoating fabric integrating softness, smoothness, gloss and gorgeousness.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of half spinning woollen overcoating, particularly relate to a kind of half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating and preparation method thereof.
Background technology
Tradition woollen overcoating take wool as primary raw material, adopts the carded woolen knitwear of slubbing process route processing; And the fabric made by 100% silkworm silk is at present generally light and thin type, be only applicable to spring and summer season, be not used in woolen fabrics and produce winter dress.
Summary of the invention
For above-mentioned shortcoming, the object of the present invention is to provide a kind of half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating being used in winter dress all made by spun silk yarn.
Technology contents of the present invention is: half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating, it is characterized in that it adopts weft sateen line to weave by half spinning obtained 28s/2Nm spun silk warp thread and 28s/2Nm spun silk weft yarn and forms; Spun silk fineness is 11 ~ 11.5 μm.
Another object of the present invention is to the preparation method that above-mentioned half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating is provided.
The preparation method of half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating, it comprises the steps:
(1), first spun silk is come unstuck, make spun silk obtain residual silkgum content 2 ~ 3 % by weight; Then the spun silk after coming unstuck is dyeed;
(2), by the spun silk after above-mentioned dyeing carry out and hair on mixing willow, and the addition being adopted by wool lubricant spray atomization mode to be directly added in wool lubricant on spun silk during hair is 0.2 ~ 1.0 %owf, the profit weight ratio of wool lubricant is 1:8 ~ 1:15; Add antistatic additive with during hair, the addition of antistatic additive is 1.5 ~ 2.5 % by weight; Be 11 ~ 13% with upper machine regain during hair; With after hair, spun silk is carried out vexed hair, the vexed hair time is 47 ~ 50 hours; Then spun silk is carried out carding through combing machine for fur again, the setting parameter of combing machine for fur is that shaping determines to weigh 16 ~ 17g/5m; Feed gross weight 42 ~ 47g/ time; Cylinder rotating speed 345 ~ 355r/min; Thorn rod rotating speed 950 ~ 1050r/min; Doffing speed 12 ~ 17r/min; Flat-clothing speed 125 ~ 135mm/min; Spun silk after carding obtains spun silk warp thread and spun silk weft yarn through drafting → rove → spun yarn → winder → doubling → winder double twisting again;
(3), weft sateen line is adopted to be woven into spun silk fabric grey cloth on spun silk warp thread obtained in step (2) and spun silk weft yarn;
(4), spun silk fabric grey cloth obtained in step (3) is carried out Final finishing to get product half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating; Postfinishing process: flat eliminate → drying → middle inspection → decatizing → plucking → cropping → wet brush → clot → oven dry → mono-boiling hot → cropping → ripe repaiies → steams brush → finished product.
During Final finishing, flat technique of eliminating is selected to be strictly on guard against that grey cloth produces folding line; Use stainless steel fillet clothing during plucking, pin cloth needle point is sharp, and Duola, cuts, to increase gross density more; The hair clipper edge of a knife needs sharp, prevents cropping from skidding, and produces cropping tool marks.
The present invention adopts half spinning process route, changes slubbing postfinishing process, and the winter dress woollen overcoating utilizing half spinning pure spun silk yarn to make, has expanded the application of spun silk, and technology belongs to blank in industry.
The present invention is advantageously: it is close and concordant, submissive that the face of inventing the half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating made reaches dry foot, the graceful noble effect of gloss appearance, is aly to integrate soft, suitable, sliding, bright, magnificent high-grade overcoating fabric.
Detailed description of the invention
Spun silk fineness is 11 ~ 11.5 μm in the examples below that; Wool lubricant is the SELBANA UN wool lubricant of Kekai Fine Chemical (Shanghai) Co., Ltd., and antistatic additive is the KATAX 570C antistatic additive of Kekai Fine Chemical (Shanghai) Co., Ltd..
Example 1, (1), first spun silk is come unstuck, make spun silk obtain residual silkgum content 2 % by weight; Then the spun silk after coming unstuck is dyeed;
(2), by the spun silk after above-mentioned dyeing carry out and hair on mixing willow, and the addition being adopted by wool lubricant spray atomization mode to be directly added in wool lubricant on spun silk during hair is 0.8%owf, the profit weight ratio of wool lubricant is 1:10; Add antistatic additive with during hair, the addition of antistatic additive is 2.0 % by weight; Be 12% with upper machine regain during hair; With after hair, spun silk is carried out vexed hair, the vexed hair time is 48 hours; Then spun silk is carried out carding through combing machine for fur again, the setting parameter of combing machine for fur is the surely heavy 16.5g/5m of shaping; Feed gross weight 45g/ time; Cylinder rotating speed 350r/min; Thorn rod rotating speed 1000r/min; Doffing speed 15r/min; Flat-clothing speed 130mm/min; Spun silk after carding obtains 28s/2Nm spun silk warp thread and 28s/2Nm spun silk weft yarn through drafting → rove → spun yarn → winder → doubling → winder double twisting again;
(3), weft sateen line is adopted to be woven into spun silk fabric grey cloth on spun silk warp thread obtained in step (2) and spun silk weft yarn;
(4), spun silk fabric grey cloth obtained in step (3) is carried out Final finishing to get product half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating; Postfinishing process: flat eliminate → drying → middle inspection → decatizing → plucking → cropping → wet brush → clot → oven dry → mono-boiling hot → cropping → ripe repaiies → steams brush → finished product.
Claims (1)
1. the preparation method of half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating, it comprises the steps:
(1), first spun silk is come unstuck, make spun silk obtain residual silkgum content 2 ~ 3 % by weight; Then the spun silk after coming unstuck is dyeed;
(2), by the spun silk after above-mentioned dyeing carry out and hair on mixing willow, and the addition being adopted by wool lubricant spray atomization mode to be directly added in wool lubricant on spun silk during hair is 0.2 ~ 1.0 %owf, the profit weight ratio of wool lubricant is 1:8 ~ 1:15; Add antistatic additive with during hair, the addition of antistatic additive is 1.5 ~ 2.5 % by weight; Be 11 ~ 13% with upper machine regain during hair; With after hair, spun silk is carried out vexed hair, the vexed hair time is 47 ~ 50 hours; Then spun silk is carried out carding through combing machine for fur again, the setting parameter of combing machine for fur is that shaping determines to weigh 16 ~ 17g/5m; Feed gross weight 42 ~ 47g/ time; Cylinder rotating speed 345 ~ 355r/min; Thorn rod rotating speed 950 ~ 1050r/min; Doffing speed 12 ~ 17r/min; Flat-clothing speed 125 ~ 135mm/min; Spun silk after carding obtains spun silk warp thread and spun silk weft yarn through drafting → rove → spun yarn → winder → doubling → winder double twisting again;
(3), weft sateen line is adopted to be woven into spun silk fabric grey cloth on spun silk warp thread obtained in step (2) and spun silk weft yarn;
(4), spun silk fabric grey cloth obtained in step (3) is carried out Final finishing to get product half spinning pure spun silk woollen overcoating; Postfinishing process: flat eliminate → drying → middle inspection → decatizing → plucking → cropping → wet brush → clot → oven dry → mono-boiling hot → cropping → ripe repaiies → steams brush → finished product.
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CN201410045638.7A CN103799586B (en) | 2014-02-08 | 2014-02-08 | Semi-worsted pure-spun-silk smooth overcoating and manufacturing method thereof |
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CN201410045638.7A CN103799586B (en) | 2014-02-08 | 2014-02-08 | Semi-worsted pure-spun-silk smooth overcoating and manufacturing method thereof |
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CN103799586A CN103799586A (en) | 2014-05-21 |
CN103799586B true CN103799586B (en) | 2015-03-11 |
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WO2019210447A1 (en) * | 2018-05-01 | 2019-11-07 | Xu Min | Cloth material |
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CN1083877A (en) * | 1992-12-05 | 1994-03-16 | 如皋市纺织厂 | Air spinning silk-cotton interwoven denim and production method thereof |
CN2830439Y (en) * | 2005-06-11 | 2006-10-25 | 朱国玉 | Double-warp silk shell fabric |
JP4234181B1 (en) * | 2007-08-23 | 2009-03-04 | 株式会社村田製作所 | Wire grid and manufacturing method thereof |
CN101250786B (en) * | 2008-03-12 | 2010-08-04 | 江苏华西村股份有限公司 | Method for producing antimicrobial, electrostatic resistance, warp and weft bi-directional elastic worsted cloth |
CN102061549B (en) * | 2010-11-23 | 2012-10-10 | 张家港市金陵纺织有限公司 | Processing method of semi-worsted ultra-thin double-faced overcoating wool fabric |
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