CN103696071A - Processing technology of yarns used for artificial fur - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a processing technology of yarns used for artificial fur. A blending ratio of the yarns is that56s woolto 64s woolis equal to 60to 40. The processing technology adopts a special processing method on the steps of a fore-spinning process, a spinning process, an after-spinning process and the like. The processing technology has the beneficial effects that by adopting the yarns processed by the technology, after after-treatment such as weavingand pile cutting, a fabric surface is full and smooth, rich in light and elasticity, and good in thermal insulation property. A quarry-faced whole overcoat is bright in color, smooth in a hair side, and neat in guard hair and fluff. After ironing, the artificial fur is flat, neat and good in style. The appearance of the artificial fur is similar to natural fur, and is better in thermal insulation property, air permeability and elasticity.

Description

The processing technology of yarn for a kind of Fake Furs

(1) technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of manufacturing technique of yarn of field of textiles, particularly relate to the processing technology of yarn for a kind of Fake Furs.

(2) background technology

Fur coat, refers to the animal fur that hair-on tanning forms, as dress material.Common are fox skin, fur, sheepskin and wolf-skin etc.Fur coat is the desirable material of warm wear, gets that it is warming, light, durable, and the quality of magnificent noble quality.Leather can obtain various appearance styles after dyeing is processed, very popular.

Atural fur is mainly derived from fur-bearing animal, general animal hair skin is comprised of close pin hair, fine hair, the coarse wool of giving birth to of epidermal area and surface thereof, but because of animal species different, these several maos of proportion of composing differences, thereby the quality that has determined fur has the difference of height, quality.As the fur of dress materials, take have that fine hair, the thickness of close life is thick, lightweight, gas-bearing property is well as superior.The natural superiority of FUR GARMENT, has deepened the preference of people to it, and it is worth also and goes up significantly thereupon, to today, and a high-grade FUR GARMENT exquisite in workmanship, priceless, become a kind of rich, gentility's symbol.In order to reduce the cost of atural fur and leather products, expand its source, in recent years, Fake Furs has had large development.Meanwhile, under the flag of animal protectionism, people start to resist consciously FUR GARMENT, have also promoted the development of Fake Furs technology.

In recent years, adopt woven, knitting or gluing mode, at fabric face, form fine hair different in size, have the outward appearance and the wearability that approach atural fur, such processing method is popular gradually.

Take machine made synthetic fur as example, adopt double-deckly through fluffing tissue, after clipping, at fabric face, form lint.This Fake Furs fine hair is fixed firmly, and lint is neat, good springiness, and warming and gas permeability can be similar with atural fur.At present, on such produce market, also do not see, do not see relevant technology open yet.

(3) summary of the invention

The object of the invention is in order to overcome the weak point of existing yarn and production technology thereof, and the processing technology of a kind of Fake Furs with yarn is provided.

Technical scheme of the present invention is to realize like this.

The processing technology of yarn for the Fake Furs of this programme, yarn adopts dyeing of Australian wool spinning.The blending ratio of this yarn is 56s wool: 64s wool=60:40, very calculates by weight; The critical process of the processing technology of this yarn is as follows:

(1), dyeing and finishing workshop wool top mercerising, dyeing and after backwashing technique

Flow process: pine tag ball, dyeing, spin-dry, after backwashing,

1. mercerising anti-shrinking

Flow process: wool, chlorination mercerising, oxidation mercerising, 90 minutes process times;

2. dyeing adopts REACTIVE DYES, and fibre damage is little, and COLOR FASTNESS is high;

(2), 32Nm/2 pure wool yarn process flow process

1. fore-spinning

Silver mixing: a unit type B412, combined roots 10, drafting multiple 10, lower machine weight 20 ± 1g, silver mixing gets damp again in advance by 24h;

Two times silver mixing: unit type GN6-17, combined roots 8, drafting multiple 9.3, lower machine weight 12.9 ± 0.5g, volume read-out 100ml/min;

One grilling: unit type GN6-17R, combined roots 8, drafting multiple 9, lower machine weight 11.5 ± 0.5g;

Two road grilling: unit type GN6-26, combined roots 6, drafting multiple 8, lower machine weight 8.6 ± 0.5g;

Three road grilling: unit type GN6-211, combined roots 4, drafting multiple 6.6, lower machine weight 5.2 ± 0.2g;

Rove: unit type FM-8N, combined roots 1, drafting multiple 10.92, lower machine weight 0.84 ± 0.02g;

2. spinning process

Real number: the 32.5Nm that spins of single thread,

Drafting multiple: 15.68,

The twist: 400T/m,

Sth. made by twisting is twisted with the fingers to: Z,

Steel wire hook: 25#,

Always space: 190mm;

3. spinning process after

Winder: the ESPRO.M automatic winder of Italian Savio company;

Doubling: the fmx doubling frame of Switzerland SSM company, number of share of stock is 2 strands;

Double twisting: the VTS-086 two-for-one twister of German SAVRER company;

The twist: 230T/m, twist with the fingers to: S twists with the fingers;

Ceeling: equipment TYPE type twine reeler;

Frame is long: 178cm, large strand is public heavy: 250g.

After finally spinning, wash soft processing, make yam surface smooth, high resilience.

Usefulness of the present invention is: adopt the yarn of this processes, after arranging through weaving, after clipping etc., matte is plentiful smooth, is imbued with fat light, elasticity, and thermal property is good.Whole overcoat of hair side is bright in luster, and hair side is smooth-going, and pin lint hair is neat.Scald press rear calm, clean and tidy, style is good.Its outward appearance is similar in appearance to atural fur, and warmth retention property, gas permeability and elasticity are all better.

(4) specific embodiment

Below in conjunction with embodiment, the invention will be further described.

One, technological process

1, raw material is prepared

Mixed proportion: 56s 60%; 64s 40%, average fineness after mixing: 27.36 μ m, fineness is discrete: 29.5%.

2, dyeing and finishing workshop wool top mercerising, dyeing and after backwashing

Pine tag ball, dyeing, spin-dry, after backwashing.

Capital equipment model: N461 type ball top dyeing machine; LB331 type hot roller back washer.

(1), mercerising anti-shrinking is taked quick mercerization

Technological process: common wool, chlorination mercerising, oxidation mercerising;

90 minutes process times, whiteness is high, good hand touch.

, dyeing adopts low temperature active dyestuff, itself has low temperature coloring, low temperature fixation function.Fibre damage is little, and COLOR FASTNESS is high.

3,32Nm/2 pure wool yarn process flow process

(1), fore-spinning

(2), spinning process

Fine spining machine unit type: domestic FB505A type ring throstle,

Spin number: 32.5Nm(considers yarn twist contraction to single thread in fact, so number increases 0.5Nm),

Drafting multiple: 15.68,

The twist: 400T/m,

Sth. made by twisting is twisted with the fingers to: Z,

Steel wire hook: 25#,

Always space: 190mm.

(3), rear spinning process

1. winder: the ESPRO.M automatic winder of Italian Savio company;

2. doubling: the fmx doubling frame of Switzerland SSM company, number of share of stock is 2 strands;

3. double twisting: the VTS-086 two-for-one twister of German SAVRER company;

The twist: 230T/m, twist with the fingers to: S twists with the fingers;

4. ceeling: equipment TYPE type twine reeler;

Frame is long: 178cm, large strand is public heavy: 250g.

After finally spinning, wash soft processing, make yam surface smooth, high resilience.

Two, technological difficulties

In order to pursue the emulation of Fake Furs, because natural animal fiberoptic fiber has gloss, soft matte is plentiful smooth, is imbued with fat light, elasticity, and thermal property is good, plays wool warp botany.

In order to make fleece be fluffy thick close sense, and in fleece, form the heat-insulation layer that an air is difficult for circulation, the proportioning of raw material is a crucial ring.Adopt fineness 27 μ m left and right, discrete 28%-30%, reaches the discrete large feature of natural fur coat fibre fineness to greatest extent.Between fiber, cohesive force is little, thereby will select silkete unshrinkable wool.In spinning process, the twist is difficult for excessive, because the twist is crossed conference, to bristle, brings difficulty, and pieces is brushed not opened.But mercerized wool cohesive force is poor, the wayward wandering fibre of fine spining machine, spun in the past and increased and crude oil consumption, and fine spining machine should be taked the slip draft of single district, reduces drafting multiple simultaneously, and reel cage pressure is reduced to the two ingots of 22Kg/ from the two ingots of 28Kg/.When effectively controlling floating fiber, reduce yarn unevenness.

Claims (1)

1. a processing technology for yarn for Fake Furs, adopts dyeing of Australian wool spinning, it is characterized in that: the blending ratio of this yarn is 56s wool: 64s wool=60:40, very calculates by weight; The critical process of the processing technology of this yarn is as follows:

(1), dyeing and finishing workshop wool top mercerising, dyeing and after backwashing technique

Flow process: pine tag ball, dyeing, spin-dry, after backwashing,

1. mercerising anti-shrinking

Flow process: wool, chlorination mercerising, oxidation mercerising, 90 minutes process times;

2. dyeing adopts REACTIVE DYES, and fibre damage is little, and COLOR FASTNESS is high;

(2), 32Nm/2 pure wool yarn process flow process

1. fore-spinning

Silver mixing: a unit type B412, combined roots 10, drafting multiple 10, lower machine weight 20 ± 1g, silver mixing gets damp again in advance by 24h;

Two times silver mixing: unit type GN6-17, combined roots 8, drafting multiple 9.3, lower machine weight 12.9 ± 0.5g, volume read-out 100ml/min;

One grilling: unit type GN6-17R, combined roots 8, drafting multiple 9, lower machine weight 11.5 ± 0.5g;

Two road grilling: unit type GN6-26, combined roots 6, drafting multiple 8, lower machine weight 8.6 ± 0.5g;

Three road grilling: unit type GN6-211, combined roots 4, drafting multiple 6.6, lower machine weight 5.2 ± 0.2g;

Rove: unit type FM-8N, combined roots 1, drafting multiple 10.92, lower machine weight 0.84 ± 0.02g;

2. spinning process

Real number: the 32.5Nm that spins of single thread,

Drafting multiple: 15.68,

The twist: 400T/m,

Sth. made by twisting is twisted with the fingers to: Z,

Steel wire hook: 25#,

Always space: 190mm;

3. spinning process after

Winder: the ESPRO.M automatic winder of Italian Savio company;

Doubling: the fmx doubling frame of Switzerland SSM company, number of share of stock is 2 strands;

Double twisting: the VTS-086 two-for-one twister of German SAVRER company;

The twist: 230T/m, twist with the fingers to: S twists with the fingers;

Ceeling: equipment TYPE type twine reeler;

Frame is long: 178cm, large strand is public heavy: 250g.

After finally spinning, wash soft processing, make yam surface smooth, high resilience.