CN103526386A - Blended yarn woven fabric and preparing method thereof - Google Patents
Blended yarn woven fabric and preparing method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN103526386A CN103526386A CN201310029879.8A CN201310029879A CN103526386A CN 103526386 A CN103526386 A CN 103526386A CN 201310029879 A CN201310029879 A CN 201310029879A CN 103526386 A CN103526386 A CN 103526386A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a blended yarn woven fabric and a preparing method thereof. The blended yarn woven fabric comprises a jute fiber, a cotton fiber, tencel and a polyester fiber. According to the method, blending is carried out with the jute fiber, the tencel, the cotton fiber and the polyester fiber as raw materials, the performance advantages of the jute fiber, the tencel, the cotton fiber and the polyester fiber are integrated in the manufactured fabric, the defect of a single raw material is overcome, the four fibers are blended, interwoven and reasonably matched and combined, and the wearability and the appearance effect of the fabric are greatly improved.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to field of textiles, relate to a kind of fabric and preparation method thereof, particularly relate to a kind of blended yarn woven fabric and preparation method thereof.
Background technology
One of most important textile raw material of Ma Shi China; kind has ramie, flax, hemp and jute etc.; flax fibre has that good moisture absorption loose wet and ventilative function, heat transfer and heat-transfer rate are fast, nice and cool, quality compared with light, powerful large, Vermins-proof mildew-proof, static is few, tone is soft generous; its function is approximate people's skin; there is protection human body; regulate the natural performances such as temperature, in addition, also there is shielding ultraviolet rays and antibacterial function.
Flax fibre is generally all firmer, and cohesive force is poor, and elasticity is poor, and wrinkle resistance and wearing no resistance has prodding and itching feeling, and feel is coarse, stiff, crease easily, drapability is poor.The linen textile of being made by flax fibre is nice and cool, and moisture absorption is ventilative, but flax fibre is harder, and fabric creases easily, and while wearing, skin has prodding and itching feeling.
It silk (Tencel) be a kind of solvent-borne type cellulose fibre ，Shi Britain Acordis company by exploitation in 10 years, until last century, the nineties just completed business application ， China registration Chinese " day thread " by name, be most typical environmental protection fiber.It silk is to take coniferous tree to be that main wood pulp, water and solvent oxidation amine mixes, and is heated to dissolve completely, in course of dissolution, can not produce any derivative and chemical action, and through removal of impurities and direct fabrics, its molecular structure is simple carbohydrate.Tencel fiber can decompose completely in earth, environmentally safe; In addition, the amine oxide solvent using in production is completely harmless to human body, almost completely can reclaim, can Reusability, and to produce the contained cellulosic molecule of Raw pulp and do not play chemical change, no coupling product, discharges outside factory without discarded object, is the green fiber of environmental protection.
Tencel fiber has high-crystallinity, fibre section homogeneous, but between fibril in conjunction with weak and there is no elasticity, as being subject to mechanical friction, fibrous outer can rupture, and forms the young pilose antler of approximately 1 ~ 4 micron of length, in hygrometric state situation, more easily produce especially, when serious, also can tangle into cotton grain.It is inhomogeneous that inhomogeneous local fibrillation can form product appearance, causes quality discrepancy, form and aspect difference and cotton grain fault etc.Tencel fabric has high-expansion, in water, expands and reaches 40%, gives thus the good drapability of fabric and smooth innervation, but can make fabric harden under hygrometric state, the medium-thick type fabric that particularly weight per unit area is larger.Thereby make fabric in the processing of dyeing and finishing and clothes, easily produce the faults such as folding line, scratch and color spot, and this class fault has strong " Memorability ", all can preserve enduringly.After it chance water, expand larger, dye well auxiliary agent easily enters fibrous inside, and the rate of therefore just dying is quite high, easily causes front and back and side-to-side shading.The sky silk face fabric good hygroscopicity of being made by tencel fiber, DIMENSIONAL STABILITY is better, and washing shrinkage is little, fabric sofetening, have gloss and drapability as silk, gas permeability is high, but wrinkle resistance is poor, there is no straightening sense, sew up rear slippage serious, easily fade, not sun-resistant, and easily fibrillable, there is high-expansion.
Cotton is most widely used fiber in the world.The reason that it is widely used has two: one is the relatively simple production technology of cotton, and another is the various textile products of its suitable for producing.Cotton fiber is porous material, and interior molecules is arranged very irregular, and in molecule, contains a large amount of hydrophilic-structures, therefore cotton face fabric hygroscopicity is very strong, cotton fiber is hot non-conductor, and the inner chamber of cotton fiber has been full of immobilising air, therefore has good warmth retention property, in addition, also have good gas permeability, anti-sensitivity, easily cleans, can not produce static, alkali resistance is strong.
Cotton fiber is not acidproof, extremely unstable to inorganic acid, washing shrinkage is larger, and all-cotton fabric is because cotton fiber elasticity is poor, easily wrinkling, and after wrinkling, be difficult to smooth, cotton fiber has very strong water imbibition, makes cotton fiber expand after it absorbs moisture, causes that cotton yarn shortens distortion, COTTON FABRIC washing shrinkage is larger, well-pressed not attractive in appearance in appearance, easily distortion must often be pressed when wearing, poor durability, easily fade, under moist state, as bacterium or fungi, cotton fiber can be broken down into glucose, thereby causes fabric moldy metamorphism.If all-cotton fabric contacts with daylight for a long time, powerful can reduction, fiber can hard embrittlement, if run into oxidant, bleaching powder or have the dyestuff of oxidisability, also can make fiber strength decline, and fiber embrittlement, hardens.The cotton textiles absorbing sweat made with cotton fiber is ventilative, softness, anti-sensitivity, easily clean, be difficult for fuzz balls, and shortcoming is: easy wrinkle, shrink, yielding.
Polyester fiber (polyesterbre) is that the polyester that formed by organic dibasic acid and dihydroxylic alcohols polycondensation is through the synthetic fiber of spinning gained.The polyester fiber of industrial mass production is made by polyethylene terephthalate, the commodity terylene by name of China.The elasticity of polyester fiber is all stronger than any fiber, intensity and ABRASION RESISTANCE are better, the fabric of being weaved by its not only fastness exceeds 3～4 times than other fiber, and it is not well-pressed, yielding, there are good crease resistance, elasticity and DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, also have good electrical insulation capability, resistance to daylight, rub resistance, weak acid resistant and weak base, anti-mildew mothproof.
Polyester fiber is hydrophobic fibre, in large molecule, lacks hydrophilic radical, and molecular chain structure is tight, and degree of crystallinity and the degree of orientation are higher, causes its hygroscopicity, gas permeability poor.The fabric of being made by polyester fiber is easily stained, and dyeability is poor, easily produces static, or causes pruitus.Dacron fabric generally must or have at high temperature under the condition that carrier exists with disperse dyes dyeing, and heat is easily out of shape, and wears uncomfortablely, easily inhales dust, easily pilling.The fabric made by polyester fiber is well-pressed, do not crease easily, not yielding; But hygroscopicity, gas permeability are poor.
More or less all there is certain limitation in the textiles of making due to single raw material, so can be by different component fiber be mixed, the yarn of exploitation complex function, thereby make the advantage between different fibers obtain complementation, avoid shortcoming separately, and then changed wearability and the appearance effect of fabric.For example:
The patent No. is that 03138857.4 patent of invention discloses a kind of multicomponent hemp blended textile and textile technology thereof, utilize hemp, yakwool, terylene, four kinds of fibers of model are that to be spun into line density be the large linen blended yarn of 9.7-200tex multicomponent to raw material, being woven into total tightness degree is the multicomponent hemp blended cloth of 30-99.5%, and this textiles has advantages of that anti-mildew is antibacterial, moisture absorption is ventilative, antiultraviolet, antistatic, drapability are good.
Utilize the research of the BLENDED FABRIC of a height fiber crops, day silk, cotton, four kinds of fibers of polyester fiber to have no report.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to provide a kind of blended yarn woven fabric and preparation method thereof, the method be take fiber crops, day silk, cotton, polyester fiber and is carried out blending as raw material, the fabric of making combines the performance advantage of fiber crops, day silk, cotton, four kinds of fibers of polyester, made up the deficiency of single raw material, four kinds of fiber blends interweave, be reasonably combined, greatly improved wearability and the appearance effect of fabric.
For realizing object of the present invention, one aspect of the present invention provides a kind of blended yarn woven fabric, comprises following raw material: flax fibre, cotton fiber, day silk and polyester fiber.
Wherein, the weight portion proportioning of described raw material is: flax fibre 5-15, cotton fiber 30-55, day silk 5-25, polyester fiber 20-45.
Particularly, the weight portion proportion optimization of described raw material is: flax fibre 7-12, cotton fiber 39-50, day silk 10-20, polyester fiber 22-39; More preferably flax fibre 8, cotton fiber 50, day silk 20, polyester fiber 22 or flax fibre 7, cotton fiber 50, day silk 17, polyester fiber 26 or flax fibre 12, cotton fiber 39, day silk 10, polyester fiber 39.
Particularly, described flax fibre is selected a kind of in ramee, hemp, flax or jute, is preferably ramie, and more preferably No. three, Hunan ramie.
The present invention provides a kind of preparation method of blended yarn woven fabric on the other hand, comprises as follows step in sequence:
1) prepare the flax fibre that comes unstuck
Numb plant material is mixed with biology enzyme liquid, carry out enzymolysis processing, remove the colloid in numb plant material, obtain the flax fibre that comes unstuck;
2) comb spins processing
First according to the weight portion proportioning of flax fibre, cotton fiber, day silk, polyester fiber, be that 5-15:30-55:5-25:20-45 prepares raw material, after then four kinds of raw materials being mixed, spinning is processed and is made 40-100
ssingle blending spun yarn;
3) weave processing
Single blending spun yarn is made to 40
s/ 2-100
s/ 2 strand; Then strand is carried out to starching processing; Then be made into grey cloth;
4) grey cloth arranges
Resist successively scratchy processing, heat treatment, mercerization finish, non-ironing processing, washing to process and preshrunk processing grey cloth, obtain.
Wherein, the liquid of biology enzyme described in step 1) is prepared from accordance with the following steps: first mould bacterial classification is seeded in fermentation medium, carries out fermentation process, wherein fermentation temperature is 52-56 ℃, until the pH value of zymotic fluid reaches 8.5-9; Then zymotic fluid is carried out to centrifugal treating, obtain biology enzyme liquid; Described enzymolysis processing temperature is 52-56 ℃; In every 100g ramie raw materials, add the biological degumming enzyme liquid of 50-60ml.
Particularly, described numb plant material is selected a kind of in ramee, hemp, flax or jute, is preferably ramie, and more preferably No. three, Hunan ramie.
The weight portion proportion optimization of raw material wherein, step 2) is: flax fibre 7-12, cotton fiber 39-50, day silk 10-20, polyester fiber 22-39; More preferably flax fibre 8, cotton fiber 50, day silk 20, polyester fiber 22 or flax fibre 7, cotton fiber 50, day silk 17, polyester fiber 26 or flax fibre 12, cotton fiber 39, day silk 10, polyester fiber 39.
Wherein, in the processing procedure of starching described in step 3), slurry is comprised of starch, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), enzyme auxiliary agent, and the ratio of the weight of its constituent is 5:1:0.2.
Particularly, the strand as warp thread being carried out to described starching processes.
Especially, to 100
s/ 2 strand carries out described starching to be processed.
Wherein, described in step 4), anti-scratchy processing comprises as follows step in sequence:
4-1), to the grey cloth processing of singing, the filoplume on burn off grey cloth surface, makes the grey cloth of singing;
4-2) grey cloth of singing floats auxiliary agent and mixes with boiling, and heating is boiled and floated processing, makes to boil and floats grey cloth;
4-3) will boil and float grey cloth and mix in cellulase solution, and carry out enzyme and wash processing, then carry out the deactivation of cellulase, make the deburring grey cloth of itching.
Particularly, step 4-3), enzyme is washed the temperature 54-56 ℃ of processing; The enzyme time of washing is 80-90 minute.
Wherein, described in step 4), non-ironing processing comprises as follows step in sequence:
4A) preparation improves non-ironing dose
According to following proportioning, get the raw materials ready
Above-mentioned raw materials is mixed, make non-ironing dose, standby;
, by mixing with non-ironing dose through the grey cloth of mercerization finish, in temperature, be 4B) at 90-95 ℃, to carry out non-ironing processing, wherein non-ironing dose of the improvement of every 1kg grey cloth interpolation 500-600ml;
4C) grey cloth after non-ironing processing is baked to processing, wherein baking treatment temperature is 150-160 ℃.
Particularly, step 4A), non-ironing dose is low formaldehyde DP finish agent F-ECO(BASF); Described catalyst is catalyst F-M(MgCl
26H
20); Described silicone oil is silicone oil WH-328.
The inventive method tool has the following advantages:
1, the employing biological degumming technology in the inventive method is processed ramie raw materials, improved flax fibre number, damage and sclerosis because using soda acid to come unstuck flax fibre is caused have been reduced, improved the quality of fibrilia raw material, significantly improve the spinnability of ramie, reduced industrial chemicals consumption, reduced sewage up to standard, reduce environmental pollution, reached GB environment protection requirement.
2, in employing, spinning technique is combed in long spinning comb spinning technique/cotton type spinning, and the yarn defect spinning out is few, and yarn strength is good, and bar is dry good.
3, the mixed cloth that prepared by the present invention adopts fiber crops, day silk, cotton, four kinds of fiber blends of polyester fiber to form, make full use of the premium properties of different fibers, the gas permeability of flax fibre for example, the overhanging property of tencel fiber, the hygroscopicity of cotton fiber, the stiffness of polyester fiber, the indices of blended yarn woven fabric is better than national standard and industry standard.
4, the inventive method adopts biology enzyme liquid to resist scratchy processing to grey cloth, and biology enzyme liquid is nibbled exposed flax fibre head, afterbody on grey cloth top layer, and softening fibre, has eliminated the prodding and itching feeling containing flax fiber blending fabric, comfortable and easy to wear.
5, the blended yarn woven fabric that the inventive method makes, because flax fibre contains natural " phytocide ", it is antibacterial that fabric has anti-mildew, antiultraviolet, anlistatig effect.
6, the blended yarn woven fabric that the inventive method makes, due to the special finishing that different fibers are reasonably combined and carry out, fabric is quick-drying washable, and the airing time, than the fast 1-2 hour of other fabrics, easily arranges, and easily preserves.
7, the inventive method is carried out ironing and anti-crease processing to blending grey cloth, and the wrinkle resistance of grey cloth is strengthened, and shape-retaining ability improves, and keeps the stiffness of fabric, and facing anti-crease is good, and 220 ° of elastic recovery angle > have improved the quality of fabric.
8, the inventive method has solved fabric ferment and has washed, and the large defect of strength loss in non-ironing process is mainly to have benefited from ferment to wash enzyme, non-ironing dose, the selecting and rational process choice of strong protecting agent, has guaranteed the brute force that fabric is taken.
9, in the wash and wear processing procedure of the inventive method, add non-ironing dose of low formaldehyde, in the fabric after noniron finish, content of formaldehyde is low, reaches European environmental protection standard.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, further describe the present invention, advantage and disadvantage of the present invention will be more clear along with description.But these embodiment are only exemplary, scope of the present invention are not formed to any restriction.It will be understood by those skilled in the art that lower without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention and can the details of technical solution of the present invention and form be modified or be replaced, but these modifications and replacement all fall within the scope of protection of the present invention.
The present invention adopts ramie (No. three, Hunan ramie) for fibrilia raw material of the present invention, public of its fibre count >=1900, average fiber length 10-12cm.Select the fiber crops first season of high-quality ramee variety (No. three, Hunan ramie), meticulously draw together system, decaptitate and truncate, acquisition fibre count is high, the numb raw material of quality better.In embodiment, take ramie as fibrilia raw material, and except ramie, other crudefiber crops are all applicable to the present invention, such as hemp, flax, jute etc.
Embodiment 1
One, the preparation of blend fibre raw material
1, the preparation of ramie stripes
1) raw ramie preliminary treatment:
Selecting does not have stain, is bundled into ramie handle after cleaning, dry without No. three ramies of the Hunan ramie of small holes caused by worms, then ramie handle is put into acid solution, carry out immersion treatment, wherein the temperature in immersion process is 25 ℃, soak time is 3 hours, and the weight of ramie handle is 0.4-0.7kg; Acid solution is that concentration is the hydrochloric acid solution of 3mol/L.
In the ramie handle of processing through acid soak, add aqueous slkali and boiling auxiliary agent, make ramie being soaked in aqueous slkali and boiling auxiliary agent, heating, boiling 3 hours, wherein, aqueous slkali is that concentration is the NaOH solution of 5mol/L, and the volume of described aqueous slkali is (bath raio) 10:1 with the ratio of the gross weight of ramie raw materials; Described boiling auxiliary agent is multifunctional comprehensive finishing agent, sodium phosphate trimer, waterglass, and described boiling auxiliary agent is 0.1:1 with the ratio of the gross weight of ramie raw materials.
After ramie raw materials after boiling is processed is taken out, is drained with in hot water, wash to the pH of cleaning solution be neutrality, till the pH that is washed till cleaning solution is 6-7.5.
2) biological degumming:
A. the preparation of biology enzyme liquid:
Bacterial classification YXT-II after activation (the Hunan prosperous Thailand of benefit numb industry weaving dress ornament Co., Ltd) is placed in the fermentation tank that fermentation medium is housed, carry out fermentation process, until the pH value of zymotic fluid reaches 8.5, make biofermentation enzyme liquid, wherein in sweat, fermentation temperature is 52-56 ℃; Then zymotic fluid is carried out to centrifugal treating, obtain the biology enzyme liquid that comes unstuck.
B. enzymolysis method for degumming:
Pretreated ramie raw materials is put into the glue kettle that biological degumming enzyme liquid is housed, carry out enzyme digestion reaction, remove the colloid in ramie raw materials, wherein, add the biological degumming enzyme liquid of 50ml in every 100g ramie raw materials, in enzyme digestion reaction process, controlling temperature is 56 ℃, after enzymolysis method for degumming 3h, ramie raw materials is put into 95-100 ℃ of hot water, and washing is removed ramie glue that enzyme digestion reaction takes off and by biological degumming enzyme-deactivating, then ramie is taken out, drained.
3) copy fiber crops, softening, heap storage
The ramie draining away the water is placed in to flax stamping device and copies fiber crops processing, copy numb number of turns 6-8 to enclose/, remove residual colloid and foreign material in ramie, obtain degummed ramie, then degummed ramie is put into dryer carries out drying and processing, obtains the ramie that regain is 7-9%;
Ramie is put into softener and to ramie spray oil emulsion, carries out softening processing by softener, wherein in every 100g ramie, spray 7g oil emulsion; Described oil emulsion is comprised of tea oil, kerosene, alkali, water, and the ratio of the weight of its constituent is tea oil 10: kerosene 9: alkali 1: water 80.
It is 25-30 ℃ that ramie after softening is processed is placed in temperature, in the warehouse that relative humidity is 70-90%, stacks 5 days, obtains degummed ramie.
4) shredding, combing
Degummed ramie is placed in to opener and carries out shredding processing, degree of opening is 75-80%, then joins in eckling machine and carries out combing, obtains the ramie stripes of runner rate≤15%.
2, the preparation of cotton, day silk, polyester fiber bar
Cotton, after opening picking, combing, combing are processed, is made to the sliver that specification is 45-50g/5m;
By tencel fiber, after opening picking, combing, combing are processed, making specification is the sky strand of 45-50g/5m;
By polyester fiber, after opening picking, combing, combing are processed, making specification is the polyester fiber bar of 30-40g/5m.Two, comb spins processing
1, drafting is processed
Ramie stripes, day strand, sliver, polyester fiber bar are placed in to pre-parallel operation, drawing frame successively, carry out drafting processing, make fiber crops, day silk, cotton, polyester fiber blended sliver, wherein the weight proportion of flax fibre, tencel fiber, cotton fiber, polyester fiber is 8:20:50:22.
2, spinning is processed
Fiber blended sliver, successively by the processing of spinning of Speed frames, fine spining machine, is made to 100
ssingle blending spun yarn;
Fiber blended sliver, successively by the processing of spinning of Speed frames, fine spining machine, is made to 60
ssingle blending spun yarn.
Three, weave processing
1, prepare strand
By two 100
ssingle blending spun yarn by doubling winder, two-for-one twister, make 100 successively
s/ 2 strand, standby;
By two 60
ssingle blending spun yarn by doubling winder, two-for-one twister, make 60 successively
s/ 2 strands, standby.
2, warping, sizing are processed
By 100
s/ 2 strand by warping machines after by the Sizing machines of slurry is housed, carry out sizing processing, then under being the condition of 90 ℃, temperature carries out drying and processing, obtaining the rate of sizing is 10%, regain is 7% starching strand, and wherein, described slurry is comprised of starch, PVA, enzyme auxiliary agent, the ratio of the weight of its constituent is 5:1:0.2, and strand is 70 ms/min by the speed of Sizing machines.
3, weave processing
With 100 after starching
s/ 2 strands are warp thread, 60
s/ 2 strands are that weft yarn is made into 2/1 grey twill on loom.
Four, arrange cloth
1, singeing finish
Grey cloth after printing and dyeing are processed is by the processing of singing of two gassing frames, the filoplume on burn off grey cloth surface, and wherein, the treatment temperature of singing is 100 ℃, grey cloth is 120 ms/min by the speed of two gassing frames.
2, boil and float processing
Grey cloth after singeing finish is put into be equipped with and boil the collator that floats auxiliary agent, boil and float processing, wherein, boil that to float treatment temperature be 100 ℃, boiling the time of floating is 80min, described boiling floated alkali, refining agent, bleeding agent, the sodium sulfite that auxiliary agent is 30:10:3:2 by the ratio of weight and formed, described in boil that to float auxiliary agent weight be 0.5:1 with the ratio of grey cloth gross weight.
3, the deburring arrangement of itching
By boiling the grey cloth floating after processing, put into and cellulase solution is housed (model is DENYKEM-A-400XY, Australia product) in overflow machine, carry out enzyme and wash processing, exposed flax fibre head, afterbody on grey cloth top layer nibbled in biology enzyme agent, and softening fibre, wherein in overflow machine, to carry out the enzyme time of washing be 45min to grey cloth; Then grey cloth is put into 95-100 ℃ of hot water makes cellulase complete inactivation post-drying, make the deburring grey cloth of itching, the mass concentration of wherein said cellulase solution is 6 ‰, the pH value of cellulase solution is 7.5, and the consumption of cellulase solution is that every 1kg grey cloth is used described cellulase solution 0.5kg; It is 55 ± 1 ℃ that enzyme is washed treatment temperature, and the enzyme time of washing is 80 minutes.
4, sizing, mercerization finish
Deburring is itched to grey cloth by after setting machine heat treatment, by grey cloth by the mercerizing range of alkali lye is housed, grey cloth is carried out to alkaline denaturation mercerization finish, obtain mercerising grey cloth, wherein in mercerizing range, alkali lye is that concentration is that the sodium hydroxide solution of 170g/L, the consumption of alkali lye are the alkali lye that every 1kg mercerising grey cloth adds 500ml, and grey cloth is 45m/min by the speed of alkali lye.
5, noniron finish
1), according to following proportioning, get the raw materials ready
Above-mentioned raw materials is mixed, make wash and wear finisher, standby;
2) noniron finish
After packing wash and wear finisher into non-ironing stenter, mercerising grey cloth is passed through to non-ironing stenter, carry out noniron finish, then bake processing, obtain non-ironing grey cloth, wherein noniron finish temperature is 95 ℃, grey cloth is 45m/min by the speed of noniron finish machine, and wash and wear finisher consumption is that every 1kg grey cloth adds 500ml wash and wear finisher; Baking treatment temperature is 150 ℃, and curing the processing time is 100s; Baking the speed by non-ironing stenter of grey cloth in processing procedure is 25m/min;
According to the standard GB/T/T3819-1997 mensuration of the textile fabric folding line recovery " reply horn cupping ", measure the elastic recovery angle (slow crease recovery angle) of the grey cloth after non-ironing processing >=220 °.
6, washing is processed
Non-ironing grey cloth, by washing processing in washing combination machine, is made to the content of formaldehyde≤50ppm in grey cloth, and wherein, the temperature that washing is processed is 70-80 ℃, and grey cloth is 60m/min by the speed of washing combination machine, and in washing processing procedure, the pH value of water is 5.5-7.
7, shrunk finish
Grey cloth after washing is processed is by after sanforizer, and packing rolling, makes numb staple ester blended yarn woven fabric.
According to State Standard of the People's Republic of China GB/T4667-1995 " mensuration of woven fabric fabric width ", measure the fabric width of blended yarn woven fabric; GB/T4669-2008 " mensuration of textiles woven fabric linear mass and mass area ratio " measures the quality of blended yarn woven fabric; GB/T8630-2002 " mensuration of textile washing and dry rear change in size " measures the washing size changing rate of fabric; GB/T3819-1997 " mensuration of textile fabric folding line recovery is replied horn cupping " measures the slow crease recovery angle of fabric; GB/T3923.1-1997 " textile fabric tensile property part 1: the mensuration galley proof method of ultimate strength and elongation at break " measures the ultimate strength of fabric; GB/T3917.1-2009 " mensuration of textile fabric tear properties first impact pendulnm method tearing brute force " measures the tearing brute force of fabric; GB/T4668-1995 " mensuration of threads per unit length " measures the density of fabric; GB/T2912.1-2009 " the mensuration part 1 of textile formaldehyde: the formaldehyde (aqueous extraction method) that dissociates and be hydrolyzed " measures the pH value of fabric; GB/T14801-2009 " woven fabric and knitted fabric skew of weft and weft bow test method " measures the weft slope of fabric and the fiber content that textile industry standard FZ/T01101-2008 " the mensuration Physical of textile fiber content " measures fabric; FZ/T01032-1993 " mensuration of fabric and goods seam damage thereof " measures the seam damage rate of fabric, and testing result is as shown in table 1.
Table 1: embodiment 1 blended yarn woven fabric testing result
The testing result of table 1 shows, the indices of numb staple ester blended yarn woven fabric prepared by the present invention is all better than national standard and industry standard.
Embodiment 2
One, the preparation of blend fibre raw material
1, the preparation of ramie stripes
1) raw ramie preliminary treatment:
Selecting does not have stain, is bundled into ramie handle after cleaning, dry without No. three ramies of the Hunan ramie of small holes caused by worms, then ramie handle is put into acid solution, carry out immersion treatment, wherein the temperature in immersion process is 27 ℃, soak time is 4 hours, and the weight of ramie handle is 0.4-0.7kg; Acid solution is that concentration is the sulfuric acid solution of 4mol/L.
In the ramie handle of processing through acid soak, add aqueous slkali and boiling auxiliary agent, make ramie being soaked in aqueous slkali and boiling auxiliary agent, heating, boiling 2 hours, wherein, aqueous slkali is that concentration is the NaOH solution of 6mol/L, and the volume of described aqueous slkali is (bath raio) 10:1 with the ratio of the gross weight of ramie raw materials; Described boiling auxiliary agent is multifunctional comprehensive finishing agent, sodium phosphate trimer, waterglass, and described boiling auxiliary agent is 0.1:1 with the ratio of the gross weight of ramie raw materials.
After ramie raw materials after boiling is processed is taken out, is drained with in hot water, wash to the pH of cleaning solution be neutrality, till the pH that is washed till cleaning solution is 6-7.5.
2) biological degumming:
A. the preparation of biology enzyme liquid:
Bacterial classification YXT-II after activation (the Hunan prosperous Thailand of benefit numb industry weaving dress ornament Co., Ltd) is placed in the fermentation tank that fermentation medium is housed, carry out fermentation process, until the pH value of zymotic fluid reaches 9, make biofermentation enzyme liquid, wherein in sweat, fermentation temperature is 52-56 ℃; Then zymotic fluid is carried out to centrifugal treating, obtain the biology enzyme liquid that comes unstuck.
B. enzymolysis method for degumming:
Pretreated ramie raw materials is put into the glue kettle that biological degumming enzyme liquid is housed, carry out enzyme digestion reaction, remove the colloid in ramie raw materials, wherein, add the biological degumming enzyme liquid of 60ml in every 100g ramie raw materials, in enzyme digestion reaction process, controlling temperature is 52 ℃, after enzymolysis method for degumming 4h, ramie raw materials is put into 95-100 ℃ of hot water, and washing is removed ramie glue that enzyme digestion reaction takes off and by biological degumming enzyme-deactivating, then ramie is taken out, drained.
3) copy fiber crops, softening, heap storage
The ramie draining away the water is placed in to flax stamping device and copies fiber crops processing, copy numb number of turns 6-8 to enclose/, remove residual colloid and foreign material in ramie, obtain degummed ramie, then degummed ramie is put into dryer carries out drying and processing, obtains the ramie that regain is 7-9%;
Ramie is put into softener and to ramie spray oil emulsion, carries out softening processing by softener, wherein in every 100g ramie, spray 9g oil emulsion; Described oil emulsion is comprised of tea oil, kerosene, alkali, water, and the ratio of the weight of its constituent is tea oil 10: kerosene 9: alkali 1: water 80.
It is 25-30 ℃ that ramie after softening is processed is placed in temperature, in the warehouse that relative humidity is 80-90%, stacks 6 days, obtains degummed ramie.
4) shredding, combing
Degummed ramie is placed in to opener and carries out shredding processing, degree of opening is 75-80%, then joins in eckling machine and carries out combing, obtains the ramie stripes of runner rate≤15%.
2, the preparation of cotton, day silk, polyester fiber bar
Cotton, after opening picking, combing, combing are processed, is made to the sliver that specification is 45-50g/5m;
By tencel fiber, after opening picking, combing, combing are processed, making specification is the sky strand of 45-50g/5m;
By polyester fiber, after opening picking, combing, combing are processed, making specification is the polyester fiber bar of 30-40g/5m.
Two, comb spins processing
1, drafting is processed
Ramie stripes, day strand, sliver, polyester fiber bar are placed in to pre-parallel operation, drawing frame successively, carry out drafting processing, make fiber crops, day silk, cotton, polyester fiber blended sliver, wherein the weight proportion of flax fibre, tencel fiber, cotton fiber, polyester fiber is 7:17:50:26.
2, spinning is processed
Fiber blended sliver, successively by the processing of spinning of Speed frames, fine spining machine, is made to 60
ssingle blending spun yarn;
Fiber blended sliver, successively by the processing of spinning of Speed frames, fine spining machine, is made to 60
ssingle blending spun yarn.
Three, weave processing
1, prepare strand
By two 60
ssingle blending spun yarn by doubling winder, two-for-one twister, make 60 successively
s/ 2 strands, standby.
2, warping, sizing are processed
By 60
s/ 2 strand by warping machines after by the Sizing machines of slurry is housed, carry out sizing processing, then under being the condition of 100 ℃, temperature carries out drying and processing, obtaining the rate of sizing is 11%, regain is 9% starching strand, and wherein, described slurry is comprised of starch, PVA, enzyme auxiliary agent, the ratio of the weight of its constituent is 5:1:0.2, and strand is 75 ms/min by the speed of Sizing machines.
3, weave processing
By 60 after starching
s/ 2 strand is as warp thread, and 60
s/ 2 strand is made into 2/2 grey twill on loom as weft yarn.
Four, arrange cloth
1, singeing finish
Grey cloth after printing and dyeing are processed is by the processing of singing of two gassing frames, the filoplume on burn off grey cloth surface, and wherein, the treatment temperature of singing is 101 ℃, grey cloth is 130 ms/min by the speed of two gassing frames.
2, boil and float processing
Grey cloth after singeing finish is put into be equipped with and boil the collator that floats auxiliary agent, boil and float processing, wherein, boil that to float treatment temperature be 102 ℃, boiling the time of floating is 90min, described boiling floated alkali, refining agent, bleeding agent, the sodium sulfite that auxiliary agent is 30:10:3:2 by the ratio of weight and formed, described in boil that to float auxiliary agent weight be 0.6:1 with the ratio of grey cloth gross weight.
3, the deburring arrangement of itching
By boiling the grey cloth floating after processing, put into the overflow machine that cellulase solution is housed, carry out enzyme and wash processing, exposed flax fibre head, afterbody on grey cloth top layer nibbled in biology enzyme agent, and softening fibre, and wherein in overflow machine, to carry out the enzyme time of washing be 50min to grey cloth; Then grey cloth is put into 95-100 ℃ of hot water makes cellulase complete inactivation post-drying, make the deburring grey cloth of itching, the mass concentration of wherein said cellulase solution is 6 ‰, the pH value of cellulase solution is 7.0, and the consumption of cellulase solution is that every 1kg grey cloth is used described cellulase solution 0.6kg; It is 55 ± 1 ℃ that enzyme is washed treatment temperature, and the enzyme time of washing is 90 minutes.
4, sizing, mercerization finish
Deburring is itched to grey cloth by after setting machine heat treatment, by grey cloth by the mercerizing range of alkali lye is housed, grey cloth is carried out to alkaline denaturation mercerization finish, obtain mercerising grey cloth, wherein in mercerizing range, alkali lye is that concentration is that the sodium hydroxide solution of 180g/L, the consumption of alkali lye are the alkali lye that every 1kg mercerising grey cloth adds 550ml, and grey cloth is 55m/min by the speed of alkali lye.
5, noniron finish
1) according to following proportioning, get the raw materials ready
2) noniron finish
After packing wash and wear finisher into non-ironing stenter, mercerising grey cloth is passed through to non-ironing stenter, carry out noniron finish, then bake processing, obtain non-ironing grey cloth, wherein, the temperature of noniron finish is 90 ℃, and grey cloth is 55m/min by the speed of noniron finish machine, and the consumption of wash and wear finisher is the wash and wear finisher that every 1kg grey cloth adds 600ml; Baking treatment temperature is 155 ℃, and curing the processing time is 110s; Baking the speed by non-ironing stenter of grey cloth in processing procedure is 35m/min;
According to the standard GB/T/T3819-1997 mensuration of the textile fabric folding line recovery " reply horn cupping ", measure the elastic recovery angle (slow crease recovery angle) of the grey cloth after non-ironing processing >=220 °.
6, washing is processed
Non-ironing grey cloth, by washing processing in washing combination machine, is made to the content of formaldehyde≤50ppm in grey cloth, and wherein, the temperature that washing is processed is 70-80 ℃, and grey cloth is 65m/min by the speed of washing combination machine, and in washing processing procedure, the pH value of water is 5.5-7.
7, shrunk finish
Grey cloth after washing is processed is by after sanforizer, and packing rolling, makes numb staple ester blended yarn woven fabric.
According to State Standard of the People's Republic of China GB/T4667-1995 " mensuration of woven fabric fabric width ", measure the fabric width of blended yarn woven fabric; GB/T4669-2008 " mensuration of textiles woven fabric linear mass and mass area ratio " measures the quality of blended yarn woven fabric; GB/T8630-2002 " mensuration of textile washing and dry rear change in size " measures the washing size changing rate of fabric; GB/T3819-1997 " mensuration of textile fabric folding line recovery is replied horn cupping " measures the slow crease recovery angle of fabric; GB/T3923.1-1997 " textile fabric tensile property part 1: the mensuration galley proof method of ultimate strength and elongation at break " measures the ultimate strength of fabric; GB/T3917.1-2009 " mensuration of textile fabric tear properties first impact pendulnm method tearing brute force " measures the tearing brute force of fabric; GB/T4668-1995 " mensuration of threads per unit length " measures the density of fabric; GB/T2912.1-2009 " the mensuration part 1 of textile formaldehyde: the formaldehyde (aqueous extraction method) that dissociates and be hydrolyzed " measures the pH value of fabric; GB/T14801-2009 " woven fabric and knitted fabric skew of weft and weft bow test method " measures the weft slope of fabric and the fiber content that textile industry standard FZ/T01101-2008 " the mensuration Physical of textile fiber content " measures fabric; FZ/T01032-1993 " mensuration of fabric and goods seam damage thereof " measures the seam damage rate of fabric, and testing result is as shown in table 2.
Table 2: embodiment 2 blended yarn woven fabric testing results
The testing result of table 2 shows, the indices of numb staple ester blended yarn woven fabric prepared by the present invention is all better than national standard and industry standard.
Embodiment 3
One, the preparation of blend fibre raw material
1, the preparation of ramie stripes
1) raw ramie preliminary treatment:
Selecting does not have stain, is bundled into ramie handle after cleaning, dry without No. three ramies of the Hunan ramie of small holes caused by worms, then ramie handle is put into acid solution, carry out immersion treatment, wherein the temperature in immersion process is 30 ℃, soak time is 3.5 hours, and the weight of ramie handle is 0.4-0.7kg; Acid solution is that concentration is the phosphoric acid solution of 5mol/L.
In the ramie handle of processing through acid soak, add aqueous slkali and boiling auxiliary agent, make ramie being soaked in aqueous slkali and boiling auxiliary agent, heating, boiling 2.5 hours, wherein, aqueous slkali is that concentration is the NaOH solution of 5.5mol/L, and the volume of described aqueous slkali is (bath raio) 10:1 with the ratio of the gross weight of ramie raw materials; Described boiling auxiliary agent is multifunctional comprehensive finishing agent, sodium phosphate trimer, waterglass, and described boiling auxiliary agent is 0.1:1 with the ratio of the gross weight of ramie raw materials.
After ramie raw materials after boiling is processed is taken out, is drained with in hot water, wash to the pH of cleaning solution be neutrality, till the pH that is washed till cleaning solution is 6-7.5.
2) biological degumming:
A. the preparation of biology enzyme liquid:
Bacterial classification YXT-II after activation (the Hunan prosperous Thailand of benefit numb industry weaving dress ornament Co., Ltd) is placed in the fermentation tank that fermentation medium is housed, carry out fermentation process, until the pH value of zymotic fluid reaches 8.5, make biofermentation enzyme liquid, wherein in sweat, fermentation temperature is 52-56 ℃; Then zymotic fluid is carried out to centrifugal treating, obtain the biology enzyme liquid that comes unstuck.
B. enzymolysis method for degumming:
Pretreated ramie raw materials is put into the glue kettle that biological degumming enzyme liquid is housed, carry out enzyme digestion reaction, remove the colloid in ramie raw materials, wherein, add the biological degumming enzyme liquid of 55ml in every 100g ramie raw materials, in enzyme digestion reaction process, controlling temperature is 54 ℃, after enzymolysis method for degumming 3.5h, ramie raw materials is put into 95-100 ℃ of hot water, and washing is removed ramie glue that enzyme digestion reaction takes off and by biological degumming enzyme-deactivating, then ramie is taken out, drained.
3) copy fiber crops, softening, heap storage
The ramie draining away the water is placed in to flax stamping device and copies fiber crops processing, copy numb number of turns 6-8 to enclose/, remove residual colloid and foreign material in ramie, obtain degummed ramie, then degummed ramie is put into dryer carries out drying and processing, obtains the ramie that regain is 7-9%;
Ramie is put into softener and to ramie spray oil emulsion, carries out softening processing by softener, wherein in every 100g ramie, spray 8g oil emulsion; Described oil emulsion is comprised of tea oil, kerosene, alkali, water, and the ratio of the weight of its constituent is tea oil 10: kerosene 9: alkali 1: water 80.
It is 25-30 ℃ that ramie after softening is processed is placed in temperature, in the warehouse that relative humidity is 70-80%, stacks 7 days, obtains degummed ramie.
4) shredding, combing
Degummed ramie is placed in to opener and carries out shredding processing, degree of opening is 75-80%, then joins in eckling machine and carries out combing, obtains the ramie stripes of runner rate≤15%.
2, the preparation of cotton, day silk, polyester fiber bar
Cotton, after opening picking, combing, combing are processed, is made to the sliver that specification is 45-50g/5m;
By tencel fiber, after opening picking, combing, combing are processed, making specification is the sky strand of 45-50g/5m;
By polyester fiber, after opening picking, combing, combing are processed, making specification is the polyester fiber bar of 30-40g/5m.
Two, comb spins processing
1, drafting is processed
Ramie stripes, day strand, sliver, polyester fiber bar are placed in to pre-parallel operation, drawing frame successively, carry out drafting processing, make fiber crops, day silk, cotton, polyester fiber blended sliver, wherein the weight proportion of flax fibre, tencel fiber, cotton fiber, polyester fiber is 12:10:39:39.
2, spinning is processed
Fiber blended sliver, successively by the processing of spinning of Speed frames, fine spining machine, is made to 100
ssingle blending spun yarn;
Fiber blended sliver, successively by the processing of spinning of Speed frames, fine spining machine, is made to 40
ssingle blending spun yarn.
Three, weave processing
1, prepare strand
By two 100
ssingle blending spun yarn by doubling winder, two-for-one twister, make 100 successively
s/ 2 strands, standby;
By two 40
ssingle blending spun yarn by doubling winder, two-for-one twister, make 40 successively
s/ 2 strands, standby.
2, warping, sizing are processed
By 100
s/ 2 strand by warping machines after by the Sizing machines of slurry is housed, carry out sizing processing, then under being the condition of 110 ℃, temperature carries out drying and processing, obtaining the rate of sizing is 10%, regain is 8% starching strand, and wherein, described slurry is comprised of starch, PVA, enzyme auxiliary agent, the ratio of the weight of its constituent is 5:1:0.2, and strand is 80 ms/min by the speed of Sizing machines.
3, weave processing
By 100 after starching
s/ 2 strand is as warp thread, and 40
s/ 2 strand is made into 2/1 grey twill on loom as weft yarn.
Four, arrange cloth
1, singeing finish
Grey cloth after printing and dyeing are processed is by the processing of singing of two gassing frames, the filoplume on burn off grey cloth surface, and wherein, the treatment temperature of singing is 102 ℃, grey cloth is 140 ms/min by the speed of two gassing frames.
2, boil and float processing
Grey cloth after singeing finish is put into be equipped with and boil the collator that floats auxiliary agent, boil and float processing, wherein, boil that to float treatment temperature be 101 ℃, boiling the time of floating is 100min, described boiling floated alkali, refining agent, bleeding agent, the sodium sulfite that auxiliary agent is 30:10:3:2 by the ratio of weight and formed, described in boil that to float auxiliary agent weight be 0.55:1 with the ratio of grey cloth gross weight.
3, the deburring arrangement of itching
By boiling the grey cloth floating after processing, put into the overflow machine that cellulase solution is housed, carry out enzyme and wash processing, exposed flax fibre head, afterbody on grey cloth top layer nibbled in biology enzyme agent, and softening fibre, and wherein in overflow machine, to carry out the enzyme time of washing be 60min to grey cloth; Then grey cloth is put into 95-100 ℃ of hot water makes cellulase complete inactivation post-drying, make the deburring grey cloth of itching, the mass concentration of wherein said cellulase solution is 6 ‰, the pH value of cellulase solution is 8.0, and the consumption of cellulase solution is that every 1kg grey cloth is used described cellulase solution 0.55kg; It is 55 ± 1 ℃ that enzyme is washed treatment temperature, and the enzyme time of washing is 85 minutes.
4, sizing, mercerization finish
Deburring is itched to grey cloth by after setting machine heat treatment, by grey cloth by the mercerizing range of alkali lye is housed, grey cloth is carried out to alkaline denaturation mercerization finish, obtain mercerising grey cloth, wherein in mercerizing range, alkali lye is that concentration is that the sodium hydroxide solution of 190g/L, the consumption of alkali lye are the alkali lye that every 1kg mercerising grey cloth adds 600ml, and grey cloth is 50m/min by the speed of alkali lye.
5, noniron finish
1) according to following proportioning, get the raw materials ready
2) noniron finish
After packing wash and wear finisher into non-ironing stenter, mercerising grey cloth is passed through to non-ironing stenter, carry out noniron finish, then bake processing, obtain non-ironing grey cloth, wherein, the temperature of noniron finish is 95 ℃, and grey cloth is 50m/min by the speed of noniron finish machine, and the consumption of wash and wear finisher is the wash and wear finisher that every 1kg grey cloth adds 550ml; Baking treatment temperature is 160 ℃, and curing the processing time is 120s; Baking the speed by non-ironing stenter of grey cloth in processing procedure is 50m/min;
According to the standard GB/T/T3819-1997 mensuration of the textile fabric folding line recovery " reply horn cupping ", measure the elastic recovery angle (slow crease recovery angle) of the grey cloth after non-ironing processing >=220 °.
6, washing is processed
Non-ironing grey cloth, by washing processing in washing combination machine, is made to the content of formaldehyde≤50ppm in grey cloth, and wherein, the temperature that washing is processed is 70-80 ℃, and grey cloth is 70m/min by the speed of washing combination machine, and in washing processing procedure, the pH value of water is 5.5-7.
7, shrunk finish
Grey cloth after washing is processed is by after sanforizer, and packing rolling, makes numb staple ester blended yarn woven fabric.
According to State Standard of the People's Republic of China GB/T4667-1995 " mensuration of woven fabric fabric width ", measure the fabric width of blended yarn woven fabric; GB/T4669-2008 " mensuration of textiles woven fabric linear mass and mass area ratio " measures the quality of blended yarn woven fabric; GB/T8630-2002 " mensuration of textile washing and dry rear change in size " measures the washing size changing rate of fabric; GB/T3819-1997 " mensuration of textile fabric folding line recovery is replied horn cupping " measures the slow crease recovery angle of fabric; GB/T3923.1-1997 " textile fabric tensile property part 1: the mensuration galley proof method of ultimate strength and elongation at break " measures the ultimate strength of fabric; GB/T3917.1-2009 " mensuration of textile fabric tear properties first impact pendulnm method tearing brute force " measures the tearing brute force of fabric; GB/T4668-1995 " mensuration of threads per unit length " measures the density of fabric; The pH value of fabric is measured in GB/T2912.1-2009 " the mensuration part 1 of textile formaldehyde: the formaldehyde (aqueous extraction method) that dissociates and be hydrolyzed "; GB/T14801-2009 " woven fabric and knitted fabric skew of weft and weft bow test method " measures the weft slope of fabric and the fiber content that textile industry standard FZ/T01101-2008 " the mensuration Physical of textile fiber content " measures fabric; FZ/T01032-1993 " mensuration of fabric and goods seam damage thereof " measures the seam damage rate of fabric, and testing result is as shown in table 3.
Table 3: embodiment 3 blended yarn woven fabric testing results
Reference examples
In arranging cloth process, do not carry out deburring itches and arrange, all the other are identical with embodiment 1.
The anti-scratchy test of test example 1
Numb staple ester blended yarn woven fabric cutting 10 * 10cm prepared by embodiment of the present invention 1-3, is placed in micro-Microscopic observation, the quantity of the filoplume of the lower exposed height >=0.5mm on cloth cover of unit are (square centimeter), and testing result is as shown in table 4;
The cotton day exposed hairiness number of silk polyester blended fabric of table 4 fiber crops
| ? | Embodiment 1 | Embodiment 2 | Embodiment 3 |
| Exposed hairiness number (root/cm 2） | 3 | 5 | 6 |
The anti-scratchy test of test example 2
Fabric prepared by blended yarn woven fabric prepared by the embodiment of the present invention 1 and reference examples is made respectively shirt, resists the scratchy experiment of trying on.According to the personnel's of trying on build, distribute suitable shirt, under different operating environment, do the experience of trying on next to the skin.
The primary condition of 1, trying on:
Temperature and humidity conditions: temperature: 26-30
℃; Relative humidity: 60-70%;
Try staff condition on: the age: 25-40 year, number 10 people;
Wear shirt model: 39#, 2 people; 40#, 3 people; 41#, 3 people; 42#, 2 people;
Try working environment on: clerk 3 people; Outwork personnel 3 people; Free personnel 4 people;
Try the time on: 2 hours
2, try result on:
After having tried on, according to trying impression on, fill in the scratchy situation experience of shirt table, result is as shown in table 5.
The scratchy situation of table 5 blended yarn woven fabric (shirt) is tried experience table on
Experimental result shows: dress is without prodding and itching feeling feel after anti-scratchy arrangement for blended yarn woven fabric prepared by the present invention, and comfortableness is good; And have prodding and itching feeling without the blended yarn woven fabric of scratchy arrangement of past.Blended yarn woven fabric of the present invention, through anti-scratchy arrangement, has solved the scratchy problem of crudefiber crop fabric effectively.
Claims (10)
1. a blended yarn woven fabric, comprises following raw material: flax fibre, cotton fiber, day silk and polyester fiber.
2. blended yarn woven fabric as claimed in claim 1, is characterized in that the weight portion proportioning of described raw material is: flax fibre 5-15, cotton fiber 30-55, day silk 5-25, polyester fiber 20-45.
3. blended yarn woven fabric as described in as arbitrary in claim 1-3, is characterized in that described flax fibre selects a kind of in ramee, hemp, flax or jute.
4. a preparation method for blended yarn woven fabric, comprises as follows step in sequence:
1) prepare the flax fibre that comes unstuck
Numb plant material is mixed with biology enzyme liquid, carry out enzymolysis processing, remove the colloid in numb plant material, obtain the flax fibre that comes unstuck;
2) comb spins processing
First according to the weight portion proportioning of flax fibre, cotton fiber, day silk, polyester fiber, be that 5-15:30-55:5-25:20-45 prepares raw material, after then four kinds of raw materials being mixed, spinning is processed and is made 40-100
ssingle blending spun yarn;
3) weave processing
Single blending spun yarn is made to 40
s/ 2-100
s/ 2 strand; Then strand is carried out to starching processing; Then be made into grey cloth;
4) grey cloth arranges
Resist successively scratchy processing, heat treatment, mercerization finish, non-ironing processing, washing to process and preshrunk processing grey cloth, obtain.
5. preparation method as claimed in claim 4, it is characterized in that the liquid of biology enzyme described in step 1) is prepared from accordance with the following steps: first mould bacterial classification is seeded in fermentation medium, carry out fermentation process, wherein fermentation temperature is 52-56 ℃, until the pH value of zymotic fluid reaches 8.5-9; Then zymotic fluid is carried out to centrifugal treating, obtain biology enzyme liquid.
6. the preparation method as described in claim 4 or 5, is characterized in that the temperature of enzymolysis processing described in step 1) is 52-56 ℃; In every 100g ramie raw materials, add the biological degumming enzyme liquid of 50-60ml.
7. the preparation method as described in claim 4 or 5, is characterized in that in the processing procedure of starching described in step 3), slurry is comprised of starch, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), enzyme auxiliary agent.
8. the preparation method as described in claim 4 or 5, is characterized in that described in step 4), anti-scratchy processing comprises as follows step in sequence:
4-1), to the grey cloth processing of singing, the filoplume on burn off grey cloth surface, makes the grey cloth of singing;
4-2) grey cloth of singing floats auxiliary agent and mixes with boiling, and heating is boiled and floated processing, makes to boil and floats grey cloth;
4-3) will boil and float grey cloth and mix with cellulase solution, and carry out enzyme and wash processing, then carry out the deactivation of cellulase, make the deburring grey cloth of itching.
9. preparation method as claimed in claim 8, is characterized in that step 4-3) described in enzyme wash the temperature 54-56 ℃ of processing; The enzyme time of washing is 80-90 minute.
10. the preparation method as described in claim 4 or 5, is characterized in that described in step 4), non-ironing processing comprises as follows step in sequence:
4A) preparation improves non-ironing dose
According to following proportioning, get the raw materials ready
Above-mentioned raw materials is mixed, make non-ironing dose, standby;
4B) grey cloth through mercerization finish being mixed with non-ironing dose, is at 90-95 ℃, to carry out non-ironing processing in temperature;
4C) grey cloth after non-ironing processing is baked to processing, wherein baking treatment temperature is 150-160 ℃.
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