CN103498280B - A kind of preparation technology of elastic jacquard three-layer screen cloth - Google Patents

A kind of preparation technology of elastic jacquard three-layer screen cloth Download PDF

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Publication number
CN103498280B
CN103498280B CN201310350187.3A CN201310350187A CN103498280B CN 103498280 B CN103498280 B CN 103498280B CN 201310350187 A CN201310350187 A CN 201310350187A CN 103498280 B CN103498280 B CN 103498280B
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China
Prior art keywords
cloth
spandex
layer
jacquard
terylene
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CN201310350187.3A
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CN103498280A (en
Inventor
方华珊
卓丽琼
杨德华
方志坚
卡梅伦.达内希瓦尔
程南送
黄文寿
周亚伦
贾芳纪
贺三灼
曹显
李懿
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Fujian Huafeng New Material Co ltd
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FUJIAN HUAFENG NEW MATERIAL Co Ltd
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Priority to CN201310350187.3A priority Critical patent/CN103498280B/en
Priority to PCT/CN2013/082136 priority patent/WO2015021667A1/en
Publication of CN103498280A publication Critical patent/CN103498280A/en
Priority to TW103127163A priority patent/TWI575130B/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/18Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a kind of preparation technology of elastic jacquard three-layer screen cloth, comprise the following steps: 1) mechanical wrap yarn preparation: outer wrapping fiber long filament is rotated and is wrapped on the core silk spandex by the uniform velocity drawing-off; 2) three-layer mesh fabric preparation: by mechanical wrap yarn, terylene or nylon monofilament, terylene or nylon fibre and spandex by being made into three-layer mesh fabric through volume mode, make that the facial material of three-layer mesh fabric is mechanical wrap yarn, kinds of interlayer is terylene or nylon monofilament, bottom material is terylene or nylon fibre and spandex; 3) facial jacquard weave: propose layout at the face of three-layer mesh fabric by jacquard process.Beneficial effect of the present invention is: work out pattern according to footwear type size decorative pattern, and finished product presses the sizing of footwear type size, and the technology last time is made into footwear type, both to ecological, environmental protective, in turn simplify vamp production procedure, improves production efficiency, reduce production cost.

Description

Preparation process of elastic jacquard three-layer screen cloth
Technical Field
The invention relates to an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh fabric, in particular to a preparation process of the elastic jacquard three-layer mesh fabric.
Background
The three-layer net cloth comprises an upper surface layer part, a lower surface layer bottom part and a middle layer connected between the upper surface layer part and the lower surface layer bottom part which are woven in a yarn warp knitting mode. The loosening and thickness degree of the fabric depends on the connecting yarn between the upper layer surface part and the lower layer bottom part and the weaving mode, the elastic jacquard three-layer mesh fabric is produced by covering yarn (polyester/nylon or composite fiber and spandex) on the face part, the middle layer (polyester/nylon monofilament), common (polyester/nylon) fiber at the bottom part and spandex, and jacquard is carried out on the face part or the two surfaces of the face part and the bottom part. The longitudinal direction of the grey cloth is 1-1.5cm smaller than the finished pattern in the weaving process, and the weaving coiling position must be packaged by a standard big tube core. Because of the density problem (the needle number) of the equipment, the elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth can not be as fine and smooth as the cloth cover produced by a circular weft knitting machine, the tension of the original equipment must be adjusted by a spring piece according to the elastic shrinkage of the raw fiber by adopting the raw material and the process weaving, the fabric does not pass through the spring piece adjusting machine in the weaving process according to the characteristics of the mechanical coated yarn raw material, the weaving efficiency is improved, and the cloth cover is smooth/fine.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a preparation process for making an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth smooth and fine.
In order to achieve the purpose of the invention, the invention adopts the technical scheme that:
a preparation process of elastic jacquard three-layer screen cloth comprises the following steps:
1) preparing a mechanical covering yarn: rotating and winding the outer wrapping fiber filament on the core yarn spandex which is drafted at a constant speed;
2) preparing three layers of mesh cloth: weaving mechanical covered yarns, terylene or chinlon monofilaments, terylene or chinlon fibers and spandex into three-layer mesh cloth in a warp knitting mode, wherein the surface of the three-layer mesh cloth is made of the mechanical covered yarns, the middle layer of the three-layer mesh cloth is made of the terylene or chinlon monofilaments, and the bottom of the three-layer mesh cloth is made of the terylene or chinlon fibers and the spandex;
3) carrying out face jacquard: and (3) providing design patterns on the face of the three layers of screen cloth through a jacquard process.
Wherein, in the process of preparing the mechanical covered yarn in the step 1), the thickness of the mechanical covered yarn is controlled to be 50D-150D terylene, nylon fiber or composite fiber (hemp ash) covered with 40D spandex, 70D spandex and 100D spandex.
And 2) weaving three layers of mesh cloth by adopting a warp knitting machine, wherein the tension of the yarns is not adjusted by a spring piece in the warp knitting process. The fabric is characterized in that the weaving efficiency is improved and the fabric surface is smooth/fine according to the characteristics of the raw material of the mechanical covered yarn and the weaving process does not need a spring piece adjusting machine.
Wherein, still include the following step:
4) dyeing the screen cloth:
4A) relaxing the elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth to be dyed at the temperature of 70-85 ℃ and adjusting the tension of the cloth;
4B) predetermining: longitudinally micro-drawing and shaping the cloth at the temperature of 185-200 ℃, setting a standard width according to the pattern in the transverse width, and longitudinally micro-drawing until the pattern is 1.5-2cm smaller than that of the finished pattern;
4C) dyeing: dyeing the preset cloth, controlling the dyeing temperature according to the cloth fiber, and raising the dyeing temperature to be less than or equal to 1 ℃ per minute;
4D) and (3) finalizing: sizing the dyed cloth at the temperature of 180 ℃, sizing the transverse breadth according to the standard breadth set by the pattern, and controlling the overall pattern contraposition size within 0.3-0.5 CM. Wherein,
in the step 4A), the cloth advancing speed is controlled to be 10Y/min;
in the step 4B), the cloth advancing speed is controlled to be 5-8Y/min;
in the step 4C), the cloth advancing speed is controlled to be 250-300Y/min;
and 4D), controlling the cloth advancing speed to be 5-8Y/min.
The invention has the beneficial effects that: the existing vamp structure is characterized in that parts of the existing vamp structure are usually a front cover, a rear cover, a toe cap, a waist, eyelets, a tongue and the like, the parts are usually manufactured separately, cut-off knives are made according to the size of the model of each part, and then the parts are sewn together, if patterns are required to be attached to different parts of the vamp, the patterns must be attached through printing or high-frequency pressing to form a complete vamp, if the elastic vamp is required to be produced, the elastic vamp is difficult to stitch and curl by an elastic part, the size cutting is difficult to control, the manufacturing process is various, the production efficiency is low, and the cost is high. The fabric of the invention is mainly prepared from raw materials, a processing technique, drawing, weaving, relaxation preshrinking, presetting, overflow dyeing and finalizing; the patterns are made according to the sizes of the shoe shapes, the finished products are shaped according to the sizes of the shoe shapes, and the shoe shapes are woven in one step in the process technology, so that the ecological environment is protected, the vamp production flow is simplified, the production efficiency is improved, and the production cost is reduced.
Detailed Description
In order to explain technical contents, structural features, and objects and effects of the present invention in detail, the following description is given in detail with reference to the embodiments.
The invention relates to a preparation process of elastic jacquard three-layer screen cloth, which comprises the following steps:
1) preparing a mechanical covering yarn: rotating and winding the outer wrapping fiber filament on the core yarn spandex which is drafted at a constant speed; in the process of preparing the mechanical covering yarn, the thickness of the mechanical covering yarn is controlled to be 50D-150D terylene, 40D spandex, 70D spandex and 100D spandex covered by nylon fiber or composite fiber (hemp ash). 2) Preparing three layers of mesh cloth: the method comprises the following steps of weaving mechanical covered yarns, terylene or chinlon monofilaments, terylene or chinlon fibers and spandex into three-layer mesh cloth in a warp knitting mode, wherein the surface of the three-layer mesh cloth is made of the mechanical covered yarns, the middle layer of the three-layer mesh cloth is made of the terylene or chinlon monofilaments, and the bottom of the three-layer mesh cloth is made of the terylene or chinlon fibers and the spandex; 3) carrying out face jacquard: and (3) providing design patterns on the face of the three layers of screen cloth through a jacquard process.
The invention adopts a new technical material to wrap yarn, namely mechanical wrapping yarn, and continuously rotates and winds the wrapping fiber filament on the core filament spandex which is drafted at a constant speed, the pre-drafting multiple of the spandex in the spinning process is an important process parameter, which influences the elasticity of the wrapping yarn and fabric, and also influences the strong elongation, evenness and creep property of the wrapping yarn, the pre-drafting multiple is small, the advantage of good elasticity of the elastic fabric can not be fully exerted, the yarn breakage is easily caused by over-drafting, and the product quality is reduced along with the difficulty in spinning.
Meanwhile, the invention also adjusts the cost problem, and the elastic fabric is produced by 50D-150D (polyester/nylon or composite fiber) covered yarns on the face, an intermediate layer (polyester/nylon monofilament), bottom common (polyester/nylon) fibers and spandex.
The invention has the main characteristics that: because the density problem (the number of needles) of the equipment per se cannot be as fine as that of a cloth produced by a circular weft knitting machine, the raw material is adopted to adjust the process on the technical weaving according to the elastic shrinkage of original fiber, the original equipment must adjust the tension by a spring piece, according to the characteristics of the raw material of the mechanically-coated yarn, the process for loading the fabric on the machine does not need to adjust the machine by the spring piece, the weaving efficiency is improved, and the cloth surface is smooth/fine.
The elastic jacquard three-layer mesh fabric further comprises the following dyeing process steps:
4A) relaxation refining: the elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth to be dyed is relaxed at the temperature of 70-85 ℃, the elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth is refined by washing, the washing liquid contains 3% of sodium carbonate, 3% of emulsifier and 0.5% of glacial acetic acid, the PH value is adjusted to be 6-7, the advancing speed of the cloth is controlled to be 10Y/min, the water absorption capacity is 30kg of pressure, the tension of the cloth is adjusted, the energy is saved by 30% compared with the refining process of a previous dye vat, the cleanness of the grey cloth is improved, and the oil content is reduced;
4B) predetermining: shearing the cloth ends of the loosened cloth, connecting the guide cloth, wherein the length of the guide cloth is more than 10 meters, trimming and shaping the cloth, longitudinally and slightly drawing and shaping the cloth at the temperature of 185-200 ℃, setting the standard width of a transverse door according to a pattern, and longitudinally and slightly drawing until the pattern is 1.5-2cm smaller than that of a finished pattern; the tension of the equipment is less than 1kg, the cloth advancing speed is controlled to be 5-8Y/min, the step of the invention can not be limited (fine lines can appear in the contraction setting, wrinkle marks caused by the fine lines can easily appear after the cloth enters a cylinder), only the micro-drawing setting can be carried out (the longitudinal size of the grey cloth (1-1.5 CM smaller than that of the original pattern) is required to be set in advance during pattern design, the longitudinal size (1.5-2.5 CM smaller than that of the original pattern) is obtained after the grey cloth is relaxed and refined, the longitudinal size (1-2 CM smaller than that of the original pattern) is required to be set in advance after the grey cloth is dyed into the cylinder, the longitudinal size (0.5-1CM) generated after the grey cloth rotates is required to be set according to the size of the original;
4C) dyeing: a large-nozzle dye vat is adopted, and the bath ratio is 1: 15, pH value of 4-5, spray pressure of 33PA, dyeing and heat preservation of the preset cloth for 40-60 minutes, controlling the cloth advancing speed at 250-300Y/min, and dyeing temperature: polyamide fiber is 100-;
4D) and (3) finalizing: sizing the dyed cloth at the temperature of 180 ℃, the speed of the vehicle is 5-8Y, the wind power is 1800 turns, the tension is 1kg, the upwind is 80 percent, and the downwind is 50 percent, the transverse width is sized according to the standard width of the pattern, and the contraposition size of the whole pattern is controlled within 0.3-0.5 CM. The shoe is used for manufacturing the high-grade jacquard elastic three-layer fabric by the processes of material selection, weaving and special dyeing and finishing (loosening, refining, presetting, dyeing and finalizing), improves the limitation of the three-layer fabric in the aspect of elasticity, has soft and good elasticity, fine and smooth cloth cover and no extrusion effect on toes, gives a relaxed and unconstrained feeling to the shoes manufactured by the invention, and is environment-friendly due to the fact that the shoe type is woven once by the process technology, the production flow of the vamp is simplified, the production efficiency is improved, the production cost is reduced, and brand new green, healthy and comfortable effects are provided for people.
The above description is only an embodiment of the present invention, and not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, and all modifications of equivalent structures and equivalent processes, which are made by the present specification, or directly or indirectly applied to other related technical fields, are included in the scope of the present invention.

Claims (4)

1. A preparation process of elastic jacquard three-layer screen cloth is characterized by comprising the following steps:
1) preparing a mechanical covering yarn: rotating and winding the outer wrapping fiber filament on the core yarn spandex which is drafted at a constant speed;
2) preparing three layers of mesh cloth: the method comprises the following steps of weaving mechanical covered yarns, terylene or chinlon monofilaments, terylene or chinlon fibers and spandex into three-layer mesh cloth in a warp knitting mode, wherein the surface of the three-layer mesh cloth is made of the mechanical covered yarns, the middle layer of the three-layer mesh cloth is made of the terylene or chinlon monofilaments, and the bottom of the three-layer mesh cloth is made of the terylene fibers and the spandex or the chinlon fibers and the spandex;
3) carrying out face jacquard: designing patterns on the face of the three layers of screen cloth through a jacquard process;
and step 2) weaving three layers of mesh cloth by adopting a warp knitting machine, wherein the tension of the yarns is not adjusted by a spring leaf in the warp knitting process.
2. The process for preparing an elastic jacquard three-layer screen cloth according to claim 1, wherein the thickness of the mechanical covering yarn is controlled to be 50D-150D polyester fiber covered with 40D spandex, 70D spandex and 100D spandex in the process of preparing the mechanical covering yarn in the step 1); or the 50D-150D nylon fiber is coated with 40D spandex, 70D spandex and 100D spandex; or the composite fiber is coated with 40D spandex, 70D spandex and 100D spandex.
3. The process for making an elastic jacquard triple layer web according to claim 1, further comprising the steps of:
4) dyeing the screen cloth:
4A) relaxing the elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth to be dyed at the temperature of 70-85 ℃ and adjusting the tension of the cloth;
4B) predetermining: longitudinally slightly drawing and shaping the cloth at the temperature of 185-200 ℃ until the flower type is 1.5-2cm smaller than that of the finished pattern;
4C) dyeing: dyeing the preset cloth, controlling the dyeing temperature according to the cloth fiber, and raising the dyeing temperature to be less than or equal to 1 ℃ per minute;
4D) and (3) finalizing: sizing the dyed cloth at 180 ℃, and controlling the alignment size of the whole pattern within 0.3-0.5 CM.
4. Process for the production of an elastic jacquard triple layer web according to claim 3,
in the step 4A), the cloth advancing speed is controlled to be 10Y/min;
in the step 4B), the cloth advancing speed is controlled to be 5-8Y/min;
in the step 4C), the cloth advancing speed is controlled to be 250-300Y/min;
and 4D), controlling the cloth advancing speed to be 5-8Y/min.
CN201310350187.3A 2013-08-13 2013-08-13 A kind of preparation technology of elastic jacquard three-layer screen cloth Active CN103498280B (en)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201310350187.3A CN103498280B (en) 2013-08-13 2013-08-13 A kind of preparation technology of elastic jacquard three-layer screen cloth
PCT/CN2013/082136 WO2015021667A1 (en) 2013-08-13 2013-08-23 Preparation process of elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth
TW103127163A TWI575130B (en) 2013-08-13 2014-08-08 The preparation method of elastic jacquard three - layer mesh

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

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CN103498351B (en) * 2013-08-13 2015-09-09 莆田市华峰工贸有限公司 A kind of dyeing of elastic jacquard three-layer screen cloth
CN104975431B (en) * 2014-04-02 2017-07-11 莆田市华峰工贸有限公司 A kind of preparation method of surface double-color jacquard Sandwich screen-cloth
CN105077847A (en) * 2014-05-24 2015-11-25 安踏(中国)有限公司 Vamp forming technology
CN105862242A (en) * 2016-06-08 2016-08-17 东莞百宏实业有限公司 Weaving method of composite elastic multicolor warp-knitted jacquard vamp fabric
CN106012273B (en) * 2016-07-05 2018-04-13 福建省晋江市华宇织造有限公司 A kind of elasticity screen cloth and its production method
CN106319750A (en) * 2016-08-23 2017-01-11 东莞百宏实业有限公司 Weaving method of single-layer multi-color warp-knitted jacquard fabric with three dimensional effect
CN106149191B (en) * 2016-08-31 2017-12-19 莆田市华峰工贸有限公司 A kind of heterochromatic preparation technology for distinguishing warp knitting cloth in region
CN108642697B (en) * 2017-01-10 2020-05-12 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 Manufacturing method of bicolor color-changing three-layer mesh cloth
CN109208167B (en) * 2018-11-14 2020-12-25 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 Mesh cloth with jacquard weave at mesh edge
CN113733683A (en) * 2021-09-06 2021-12-03 福建新龙科技有限公司 High-elastic jacquard vamp fabric and production process thereof

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Publication number Publication date
TW201512485A (en) 2015-04-01
TWI575130B (en) 2017-03-21
CN103498280A (en) 2014-01-08
WO2015021667A1 (en) 2015-02-19

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