TWI575130B - The preparation method of elastic jacquard three - layer mesh - Google Patents

Description

Method for preparing elastic jacquard three-layer mesh

The invention relates to an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth, in particular to a preparation method of an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth.

The invention relates to an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth, in particular to a preparation method of an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the invention to provide a method for preparing a three-layer mesh of elastic jacquard fabric which is smooth and delicate.

In order to achieve the above object, the technical solution adopted by the present invention is: a method for preparing an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh, comprising the following steps: a) preparing a mechanical covering yarn: rotating and winding the outer fiber filament in a uniform draft On the core silk polyurethane; b) three-layer mesh preparation: mechanically coated yarn, polyester or polyamide monofilament, polyester or polyamide fiber and polyurethane are woven into a three-layer mesh by warp knitting, The surface of the three-layer mesh fabric is mechanically covered yarn, the middle layer is made of polyester or polyamide monofilament, the bottom material is polyester or polyamide fiber and polyurethane; c) the facial jacquard: through the jacquard in three layers The face of the mesh presents a design pattern.

Wherein, the process of preparing the mechanical covering yarn in the step a) controls the thickness of the mechanical covering yarn to be 50D-150D polyester, polyamide fiber or composite fiber (hemp ash) coated with 40D polyurethane, 70D polyurethane, 100D polyurethane.

Wherein, step b) is woven into a three-layer mesh fabric using a warp knitting machine, and the warp knitting yarn does not pass through the warp. The reed adjusts the tension. According to the characteristics of the raw material of the mechanical covering yarn, the fabric fabric does not pass the spring sheet adjusting machine, and the weaving efficiency is improved, and the cloth surface is flat/fine.

The method further comprises the following steps: d) mesh dyeing: d1) relaxing the elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth prepared for dyeing at a temperature of 70-85 ° C to adjust the cloth tension; d2) predetermined: at a temperature of 185 ° C - 200 ° C The fabric is longitudinally micro-drawn, the horizontal door width is set according to the pattern, and the vertical micro-pull to the flower pattern is 1.5-2 cm smaller than the finished pattern; d3) dyeing: dyeing the predetermined fabric according to the fabric fiber Control dyeing temperature, dyeing temperature rise and fall is less than or equal to 1 degree/minute; d4) Set: The dyed fabric is dimensioned at a temperature of 180 °C, the horizontal width is set according to the pattern setting standard, and the overall pattern is aligned. The size control is within 0.3-0.5 CM. In step d1), the cloth traveling speed is controlled to be 10Y/min; in step d2), the cloth traveling speed is controlled to be 5-8Y/min; in step d3), the cloth traveling speed is controlled to be 250-300Y/min; in step d4), the cloth traveling is controlled. The speed is 5-8Y/min.

The beneficial effects of the present invention are: the existing upper structure, the components are generally divided into a front sleeve, a back sleeve, a toe, a waist, a shoe eye, a tongue, etc., these pieces are usually separately manufactured, according to each part body The size of the cutter is cut and cut, and then stitched together. If the pattern needs to be attached to different parts of the upper, it must be printed or high-frequency pressed to form a complete upper. If the elastic upper is to be produced, it must be stitched by elastic parts. It is more difficult to curl, the size is not well controlled, the production process is numerous, the production efficiency is low, and the cost is high. The fabric of the invention mainly selects raw materials, on-machine process, drawing, weaving, relaxation pre-shrinking, predetermined, overflow dyeing, and forming; according to the size of the shoe type, the finished product is shaped according to the size of the shoe, and the process technology is woven last time. The shoe type not only protects the environment, but also simplifies the upper production process, improves production efficiency and reduces production costs.

The details of the technical contents, structural features, and objects and effects of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the embodiments.

The invention relates to a method for preparing an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh, comprising the following steps: a) preparing a mechanical covering yarn: rotating and wrapping the outer fiber filament on a uniformly drawn core polyurethane; preparing a mechanical covering yarn program The thickness of the mechanical covering yarn is controlled to be 50D-150D polyester, polyamide fiber or composite fiber (hemp gray) coated with 40D polyurethane, 70D polyurethane, 100D polyurethane. b) Three-layer mesh preparation: the mechanical covering yarn, polyester or polyamide monofilament, polyester or polyamide fiber and polyurethane are woven into a three-layer mesh by warp knitting, so that the face of the three-layer mesh The material is mechanical covered yarn, the middle layer is made of polyester or polyamide monofilament, the bottom material is polyester or polyamide fiber and polyurethane. The step is to weave three-layer mesh with warp knitting machine, warp knitting process yarn. The line does not pass the spring piece to adjust the tension; c) the face jacquard: the design pattern is presented on the face of the three-layer mesh by jacquard.

The invention adopts the new technical material wrapping yarn-mechanical covering yarn, and the outer fiber filament is continuously rotated and wound on the core-filament polyurethane which is uniformly drawn, and the pre-pulling ratio of the polyurethane in the spinning process is a Important process parameters, which affect the elasticity of the covered yarn and the fabric, and affect the strength of the covered yarn, the unevenness of the strip and the creep performance. The pre-draw ratio is small, and the elastic fabric fabric can not be fully utilized. The advantage is that it is difficult to draw high yarn, and it is easy to cause broken yarn, and the quality of the product will decrease.

At the same time, the invention also adjusts the cost problem. This elastic fabric, the face is covered with 50D-150D (polyester/polyamide or composite fiber) coated yarn + intermediate layer (polyester/polyamine monofilament) + bottom Ordinary (polyester/polyamide) fiber + polyurethane production.

The main features of the present invention: due to the density problem of the device itself (number of stitches), it is impossible to produce a fine cloth surface like the weft knitting machine, and the original equipment must be adjusted according to the elastic shrinkage of the raw material and the process of weaving. The spring piece adjusts the tension. According to the characteristics of the raw material of the mechanical covering yarn, the machine fabric process does not pass the spring piece adjusting machine, and the weaving efficiency is improved, and the cloth surface is flat/fine.

The elastic jacquard three-layer mesh of the invention further comprises a dyeing process step: D1) Relaxation and refining: The elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth prepared for dyeing is relaxed at a temperature of 70-85 ° C, and refined by water washing. The washing liquid contains 3% soda ash, 3% emulsifier, 0.5% glacial acetic acid, and is adjusted at the same time. The PH value is between 6-7, the control cloth travel speed is 10Y/min, the water absorption is 30kg pressure, the cloth tension is adjusted, the energy saving is 30% compared with the previous dyeing cylinder refining process, the cleaning cloth cleanliness is lowered to reduce the oil content; d2) is scheduled: the slack The cloth head of the rear fabric is cut and then connected to the guide cloth. The length of the guide cloth is more than 10 meters. After the cloth is trimmed, the fabric is longitudinally micro-shaped at a temperature of 185 °C-200 °C. The horizontal door width is set according to the pattern. The width of the longitudinal micro-pull to the pattern is 1.5-2cm smaller than that of the finished pattern; the tension of the device is less than 1kg, and the traveling speed of the fabric is controlled to be 5-8Y/min. The step of the invention is not retractable (the fine lines appear when the shrinkage occurs, After the cylinder, it is easy to produce wrinkles due to fine lines. Therefore, it can only be micro-pulled. (In the design of the pattern, the longitudinal dimension of the grey fabric must be budgeted (1-1.5CM smaller than the original pattern), and the longitudinal direction after relaxation and refining. Dimensions (small 1.5-2.5CM), scheduled micro-pull rear view Dimensions (1-2CM smaller than the original pattern), the longitudinal dimension (0.5-1CM) produced after the dyeing into the cylinder, the timing is in accordance with the original pattern size, must be arranged according to the size; d3) Dyeing: Adopt Large nozzle dyeing cylinder, bath ratio 1:15, PH value 4-5, spray pressure 33PA, dyeing and holding the predetermined fabric for 40-60 minutes, controlling the cloth traveling speed at 250-300Y/min, dyeing temperature: polyamide 100-105 ° C, polyester 130-135 ° C, polyester polyamide 120 ° C, dyeing temperature rise and fall is less than or equal to 1 degree / minute, the speed can not be too fast, the temperature depends on the fiber, there is polyether blending temperature More than 120 degrees of dyeing, otherwise it will be easy to appear cylinder wrinkles, anti-wrinkle agent must be added during dyeing; d1) set: at 180 ° C, speed 5-8Y, wind 1800 rpm, tension 1kg, upwind 80%, downwind 50 % The size of the dyed fabric is dimensioned, the horizontal width is set according to the standard size of the pattern, and the overall pattern alignment is controlled within 0.3-0.5CM. Through the selection of material weaving, special dyeing and finishing process (relaxed refining-predetermined-dyeing-forming), it is used to make high-grade jacquard elastic three-layer fabric, which improves the limitation of the three-layer fabric in terms of elasticity, and has soft handfeel and elasticity. The cloth surface is fine and has no pressing effect on the toes. The shoes made by the invention give a feeling of easy and unconstrained feeling, and the technical technique is Weaving into a shoe type is not only eco-friendly, but also simplifies the production process of the upper, improves production efficiency, reduces production costs, and gives people a new green and healthy comfort.

The above is only the embodiment of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the scope of the invention, and the equivalent structure or equivalent process transformation made by using the content of the specification of the present invention, or directly or indirectly applied in other related technical fields, The same is included in the scope of patent protection of the present invention.

Claims (4)

The invention relates to a method for preparing an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh, the method steps comprising: a) preparing a mechanical covering yarn: rotating and wrapping the outer fiber filament on a uniformly drawn core polyurethane; b) preparing a three-layer mesh : Mechanically coated yarn, polyester or polyamide monofilament, polyester or polyamide fiber and polyurethane are warp knitted into a three-layer mesh through a warp knitting machine, so that the surface material of the three-layer mesh is mechanical Covered yarn, the middle layer is made of polyester or polyamide monofilament, the bottom material is polyester or polyamide fiber and polyurethane, in which the warp yarn does not pass the spring sheet to adjust the tension; c) facial jacquard: through The jacquard pattern presents a design pattern on the face of the three-layer mesh. The method for preparing an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh according to claim 1, wherein the mechanically coated yarn program in the step a) controls the thickness of the mechanical coated yarn to be 50D-150D polyester, polyamide fiber or composite fiber. (hemp ash) coated with 40D polyurethane, 70D polyurethane, 100D polyurethane. The method for preparing an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh according to claim 1, further comprising the steps of: d) mesh dyeing: d1) relaxing the elastic jacquard three-layer mesh prepared for dyeing at a temperature of 70-85 ° C. , adjust the cloth tension; d2) predetermined: the fabric is longitudinally micro-drawn at a temperature of 185 ° C -200 ° C, the longitudinal micro-pull to the pattern is 1.5-2 cm smaller than the finished pattern; d3) dyeing: the predetermined fabric is Dyeing, control dyeing temperature according to fabric fiber, dyeing temperature rise and fall is less than or equal to 1 degree/min; d4) Set: The dyed fabric is dimensioned at a temperature of 180 °C, and the overall pattern alignment size is controlled at 0.3-0.5CM within. The method for preparing an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh according to claim 3, wherein the traveling speed of the cloth is controlled to be 10Y/min in step d1); the traveling speed of the cloth is controlled to be 5-8Y/min in step d2); In step d3), the cloth traveling speed is controlled at 250-300 Y/min; in step d4), the cloth traveling speed is controlled at 5-8 Y/min.