TW201512485A - Preparation process of elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth - Google Patents

Preparation process of elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth Download PDF

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TW201512485A
TW201512485A TW103127163A TW103127163A TW201512485A TW 201512485 A TW201512485 A TW 201512485A TW 103127163 A TW103127163 A TW 103127163A TW 103127163 A TW103127163 A TW 103127163A TW 201512485 A TW201512485 A TW 201512485A
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Taiwan
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layer mesh
jacquard
spandex
preparing
dyeing
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TW103127163A
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Chinese (zh)
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TWI575130B (en
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Hua-Shan Fang
li-qiong Zhuo
De-Hua Yang
zhi-jian Fang
Daneshvar Kamran
Nan-Song Cheng
Wen-Shou Huang
ya-lun Zhou
Fang-Ji Jia
San-Zhuo He
Xian Cao
Yi Li
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Fujian Huafeng Textile Technology Co Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/18Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

Disclosed is a preparation process of elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth. The preparation process comprises the following steps: (1) machinery wrap yarn preparation: rotating an externally-wrapped fiber filament and winding the externally-wrapped fiber filament on core silk spandex drafted at a constant speed; (2) three-layer mesh cloth preparation: weaving the machinery wrap yarn, dacron or chinlon monofilament, dacron or polymide fabric and spandex into three-layer mesh cloth in a warp knitting manner, so that the facial material of the three-layer mesh cloth is machinery wrap yarn, the middle layer material is dacron or chinlon monofilament, and the bottom material is dacron or polyamide fabric and spandex; and (3) surface jacquard: forming a design pattern in the surface part of the three-layer mesh cloth by using the jacquard process.

Description

一種彈性提花三層網布的製備方法Method for preparing elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth

本發明涉及一種彈性提花三層網布,尤其涉及一種彈性提花三層網布的製備方法。The invention relates to an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth, in particular to a preparation method of an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth.

本發明涉及一種彈性提花三層網布,尤其涉及一種彈性提花三層網布的製備方法。The invention relates to an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth, in particular to a preparation method of an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth.

發明的發明目的在於提供一種使彈性提花三層網布布面平整和細膩的製備方法。SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the invention to provide a method for preparing a three-layer mesh of elastic jacquard fabric which is smooth and delicate.

為了實現上述發明目的,本發明採用的技術方案為: 一種彈性提花三層網布的製備方法,包括以下步驟: a)機械包覆紗製備:將外包纖維長絲旋轉並纏繞在被勻速牽伸的芯絲氨綸上; b)三層網布製備:將機械包覆紗、滌綸或錦綸單絲、滌綸或錦綸纖維和氨綸通過經編方式織成三層網布,使得三層網布的面部材質為機械包覆紗,中間層材質為滌綸或錦綸單絲,底部材質為滌綸或錦綸纖維和氨綸; c)面部提花:通過提花方式在三層網布的面部提出設計圖案。In order to achieve the above object, the technical solution adopted by the present invention is: a method for preparing an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh, comprising the following steps: a) mechanical covering yarn preparation: rotating and winding the outer fiber filaments in a uniform draft b) three-layer mesh preparation: the mechanical covering yarn, polyester or nylon monofilament, polyester or nylon fiber and spandex are woven into a three-layer mesh by warp knitting, so that the face of the three-layer mesh The material is mechanically covered yarn, the middle layer is made of polyester or nylon monofilament, the bottom material is polyester or nylon fiber and spandex; c) The facial jacquard: the design pattern is presented on the face of the three-layer mesh by jacquard.

其中,步驟a)中製備機械包覆紗程序控制機械包覆紗的粗細為50D-150D滌、錦綸纖維或複合纖維(麻灰)包覆40D氨綸、70D氨綸、100D氨綸。Wherein, the process of preparing the mechanical covering yarn in the step a) controls the thickness of the mechanical covering yarn to be 50D-150D polyester, nylon fiber or composite fiber (hemp gray) coated with 40D spandex, 70D spandex, 100D spandex.

其中,步驟b)為採用經編機織成三層網布,經編過程紗線不經過彈簧片調整張力。此織物面料根據機械包覆紗原料本身的特性,上機工藝不經過彈簧片調機,提高織造效率,布面又平整/細膩。Wherein, step b) is woven into a three-layer mesh fabric by using a warp knitting machine, and the warp knitting yarn is not adjusted by the spring piece. According to the characteristics of the raw material of the mechanical covering yarn, the fabric fabric does not pass the spring sheet adjusting machine, and the weaving efficiency is improved, and the cloth surface is flat/fine.

其中,還包括以下步驟: d)網布染色: d1)將準備染色的彈性提花三層網布在溫度70-85℃下進行鬆弛,調節布料張力; d2)預定:在溫度185℃-200℃對布料進行縱向微拉定型,橫向門幅根據圖型設定標準門幅,縱向微拉至花型比成品圖案花型小1.5-2cm; d3)染色:對預定後的布料進行染色,根據布料纖維控制染色溫度,染色升降溫小於或等於1度/分鐘; d4)成定:在溫度180℃對染色後的布料進行尺寸定型,橫向門幅根據圖型設定標準門幅定型,整體花型對位尺寸控制在於0.3-0.5CM之內。 步驟d1)中控制布料行進速度在10Y/分鐘; 步驟d2)中控制布料行進速度在5-8Y/分鐘; 步驟d3)中控制布料行進速度在250-300Y/分鐘; 步驟d4)中控制布料行進速度在5-8Y/分鐘。Among them, the following steps are also included: d) Mesh dyeing: d1) The elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth to be dyed is slackened at a temperature of 70-85 ° C to adjust the cloth tension; d2) predetermined: at a temperature of 185 ° C - 200 ° C The fabric is longitudinally micro-shaped, the horizontal width is set according to the pattern, and the longitudinal micro-pull is 1.5-2cm smaller than the finished pattern; d3) dyeing: dyeing the predetermined fabric according to the fabric fiber Control dyeing temperature, dyeing temperature rise and fall is less than or equal to 1 degree / minute; d4) Set: The size of the dyed fabric is shaped at 180 °C, the horizontal width is set according to the standard size setting, and the overall pattern is aligned. The size control is within 0.3-0.5 CM. In step d1), the cloth traveling speed is controlled to be 10Y/min; in step d2), the cloth traveling speed is controlled to be 5-8Y/min; in step d3), the cloth traveling speed is controlled to be 250-300Y/min; in step d4), the cloth traveling is controlled. The speed is 5-8Y/min.

本發明的有益效果為:現有的鞋面結構,部件通常分為前套、後套、鞋頭、腰身、鞋眼、鞋舌等,這些件通常都是單獨製作之後,根據每個部位型體大小制定裁刀沖剪,再縫合在一起,如需在鞋面不同部位附著圖案,還必須通過印刷或高周波壓制上去,形成完整的鞋面,若是要生產彈性鞋面,須由彈性部件縫合起來更難於卷邊,尺寸裁剪不好控制,製作工序繁多,生產效率低下,成本高。此發明織物面料主要選原料、上機工藝、製圖、織造、鬆弛預縮、預定、溢流染色、成定;根據鞋型大小花紋制訂圖案,成品按鞋型大小定型,工藝技術上一次織成鞋型,既對生態環保,又簡化了鞋面生產流程,提高了生產效率,降低了生產成本。The beneficial effects of the present invention are: the existing upper structure, the components are generally divided into a front sleeve, a back sleeve, a toe, a waist, a shoe eye, a tongue, etc., these pieces are usually separately manufactured, according to each part body The size of the cutter is cut and cut, and then stitched together. If the pattern needs to be attached to different parts of the upper, it must be printed or high-frequency pressed to form a complete upper. If the elastic upper is to be produced, it must be stitched by elastic parts. It is more difficult to curl, the size is not well controlled, the production process is numerous, the production efficiency is low, and the cost is high. The fabric of the invention mainly selects raw materials, on-machine process, drawing, weaving, relaxation pre-shrinking, predetermined, overflow dyeing, and forming; according to the size of the shoe type, the finished product is shaped according to the size of the shoe, and the process technology is woven last time. The shoe type not only protects the environment, but also simplifies the upper production process, improves production efficiency and reduces production costs.

為詳細說明本發明的技術內容、構造特徵、所實現目的及效果,以下結合實施方式詳予說明。The details of the technical contents, structural features, and objects and effects of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the embodiments.

本發明一種彈性提花三層網布的製備方法,包括以下步驟:The invention provides a method for preparing an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh, comprising the following steps:

a)機械包覆紗製備:將外包纖維長絲旋轉並纏繞在被勻速牽伸的芯絲氨綸上;製備機械包覆紗程序控制機械包覆紗的粗細為50D-150D滌、錦綸纖維或複合纖維(麻灰)包覆40D氨綸、70D氨綸、100D氨綸。b)三層網布製備:將機械包覆紗、滌綸或錦綸單絲、滌綸或錦綸纖維和氨綸通過經編方式織成三層網布,使得三層網布的面部材質為機械包覆紗、中間層材質為滌綸或錦綸單絲,底部材質為滌綸或錦綸纖維和氨綸,該步驟為採用經編機織成三層網布,經編過程紗線不經過彈簧片調整張力;c)面部提花:通過提花方式在三層網布的面部提出設計圖案。a) Preparation of mechanical coated yarn: Rotating and wrapping the outer fiber filament on the filament yarn which is uniformly drawn; preparing the mechanical covering yarn program to control the thickness of the mechanical covering yarn is 50D-150D polyester, nylon fiber or composite Fiber (hemp ash) coated with 40D spandex, 70D spandex, 100D spandex. b) Preparation of three-layer mesh: mechanically covered yarn, polyester or nylon monofilament, polyester or nylon fiber and spandex are woven into three layers of mesh through warp knitting, so that the surface material of the three-layer mesh is mechanically covered yarn The middle layer is made of polyester or nylon monofilament, and the bottom material is polyester or nylon fiber and spandex. The step is to weave a three-layer mesh with a warp knitting machine. The warp yarn does not pass the spring piece to adjust the tension; c) the facial jacquard : Design a pattern on the face of a three-layer mesh by jacquard.

本發明採用新技術材料包紗——機械包覆紗,將外包纖維長絲不斷的旋轉並纏繞在被勻速牽伸的芯絲氨綸上,在紡紗過程中氨綸的預牽倍數,是一項重要的工藝參數,它影響包覆紗的及織物的彈性,又影響包覆紗的強伸度,條幹不均勻度和蠕變性能,預牽伸倍數小,不能充分發揮彈力織物面料彈性好的優勢,牽伸過高紡紗困難,又容易引起斷絲,產品品質隨之下降。The invention adopts the new technical material wrapping yarn-mechanical covering yarn, and continuously rotates the outer fiber filament and wraps it on the core silk spandex which is uniformly drawn, and the pre-pulling ratio of the spandex in the spinning process is a Important process parameters, which affect the elasticity of the covered yarn and the fabric, and affect the strength of the covered yarn, the unevenness of the strip and the creep performance. The pre-draw ratio is small, and the elastic fabric fabric can not be fully utilized. The advantage is that it is difficult to draw high yarn, and it is easy to cause broken yarn, and the quality of the product will decrease.

同時本發明在成本問題也做了調整,此款彈性織物,面部用50D-150D(滌/錦或複合纖維)包覆紗+中間層(滌/錦單絲)+底部普通(滌/錦)纖維+氨綸生產。At the same time, the invention has also been adjusted in terms of cost. This elastic fabric, 50D-150D (polyester/brocade or composite fiber) covered yarn + intermediate layer (polyester/brocade monofilament) + bottom ordinary (polyester/brocade) Fiber + spandex production.

本發明的主要特點:因設備本身的密度問題(針數),無法像緯編圓機生產布面細膩,採用此原料根據原纖維彈性收縮度,並在工藝織造上調整工藝,原設備都必須彈簧片調整張力,根據機械包覆紗原料本身的特性,此織物面料上機工藝不經過彈簧片調機,提高織造效率,布面又平整/細膩。The main features of the present invention: due to the density problem of the device itself (number of stitches), it is impossible to produce a fine cloth surface like the weft knitting machine, and the original equipment must be adjusted according to the elastic shrinkage of the raw material and the process of weaving. The spring piece adjusts the tension. According to the characteristics of the raw material of the mechanical covering yarn, the machine fabric process does not pass the spring piece adjusting machine, and the weaving efficiency is improved, and the cloth surface is flat/fine.

本發明彈性提花三層網布還包括染色工藝步驟:The elastic jacquard three-layer mesh of the invention further comprises a dyeing process step:

d1)鬆弛精煉:將準備染色的彈性提花三層網布在溫度70-85℃下進行鬆弛,通過水洗進行精煉,水洗液中含純鹼3%、乳化劑3%,冰醋酸0.5%,同時調整PH值在6-7之間,控制布料行進速度在10Y/分鐘,吸水量30kg壓力,調節布料張力,較之前染缸精煉工藝節能30%,提升坯布清潔度降低含油率;D1) Relaxation and refining: The elastic jacquard three-layer mesh cloth prepared for dyeing is relaxed at a temperature of 70-85 ° C, and refined by water washing. The washing liquid contains 3% soda ash, 3% emulsifier, 0.5% glacial acetic acid, and is adjusted at the same time. The PH value is between 6-7, the control cloth travel speed is 10Y/min, the water absorption is 30kg pressure, the cloth tension is adjusted, the energy saving is 30% compared with the previous dyeing cylinder refining process, and the cleanness of the grey cloth is improved to reduce the oil content;

d2)預定:對鬆弛後布料的布頭剪齊後接導布,導布長度大於10米,後對布料切邊定型,在溫度185℃-200℃對布料進行縱向微拉定型,橫向門幅根據圖型設定標準門幅,縱向微拉至花型比成品圖案花型小1.5-2cm;設備張力小於1kg,控制布料行進速度在5-8Y/分鐘,本發明該步驟不可縮定(縮定會出現細紋,進缸後容易出現因細紋產生的皺印),所以只能微拉定型(在花型設計時必須預算設定好坯布縱向尺寸大小(比原圖案小1-1.5CM),經鬆馳精煉後縱向尺寸大小(小1.5-2.5CM),預定微拉後縱向尺寸大小(比原圖案小1-2CM),染色進缸後因轉動後產生的縱向尺寸大小(0.5-1CM),成定時按原圖案大小符合,必須根據大小尺寸排定;D2) Predetermined: After the cloth head of the fabric is loosened, the cloth is cut and the guide cloth is connected. The length of the guide cloth is more than 10 meters. After the cloth is trimmed, the fabric is longitudinally micro-shaped at a temperature of 185 °C-200 °C. According to the pattern setting standard door width, the longitudinal micro-pull to the flower pattern is 1.5-2cm smaller than the finished pattern pattern; the equipment tension is less than 1kg, and the control cloth travel speed is 5-8Y/min, the step of the invention can not be reduced (reduced Fine lines will appear, and wrinkles due to fine lines will appear easily after entering the cylinder. Therefore, it can only be micro-pulled (the longitudinal dimension of the grey fabric must be budgeted (the size of the original pattern is 1-1.5CM). After slack refining, the longitudinal dimension (small 1.5-2.5CM), the longitudinal dimension after micro-tensioning (1-2CM smaller than the original pattern), the longitudinal dimension (0.5-1CM) produced after the dyeing into the cylinder , the timing is in accordance with the original pattern size, must be arranged according to the size;

d3)染色:採用大噴嘴染缸,浴比1:15,PH值4-5,噴壓33PA,對預定後的布料進行染色保溫40-60分鐘,控制布料行進速度在250-300Y/分鐘,染色溫度:錦綸100-105℃,滌綸130-135℃,滌錦120℃,染色升降溫小於或等於1度/分鐘,轉速不能過快,溫度根據纖維而定,有錦綸混織溫度不要超過120度染色,不然會容易出現缸皺,染色過程中必須加抗皺劑;D3) Dyeing: dyeing cylinder with large nozzle, bath ratio 1:15, PH value 4-5, spray pressure 33PA, dyeing and keeping the predetermined fabric for 40-60 minutes, controlling the cloth traveling speed at 250-300Y/min, dyeing Temperature: nylon 100-105 ° C, polyester 130-135 ° C, polyester brocade 120 ° C, dyeing temperature rise and fall is less than or equal to 1 degree / minute, the speed can not be too fast, the temperature depends on the fiber, the nylon blending temperature should not exceed 120 degrees Dyeing, otherwise it will be easy to appear cylinder wrinkles, anti-wrinkle agent must be added during the dyeing process;

d1)成定:在溫度180℃,車速5-8Y,風力1800轉,張力1kg,上風80%,下風50%相對染色後的布料進行尺寸定型,橫向門幅根據圖型設定標準門幅定型,整體花型對位尺寸控制在於0.3-0.5CM之內。通過選材織造、特殊染整工藝(鬆弛精煉—預定—染色—成定),使用於製作高檔提花彈性三層面料,改善了三層面料在彈性方面上使用的局限性,具有手感柔軟彈性好,布面細膩,對腳趾無擠壓作用,本發明製作的鞋子給人一種輕鬆無約束的感覺,工藝技術上一次織成鞋型,既對生態環保,又簡化了鞋面生產流程,提高了生產效率,降低了生產成本,給人一種全新綠色健康的舒適。D1) Set: at a temperature of 180 ° C, a speed of 5-8Y, a wind of 1800 rpm, a tension of 1 kg, an upwind of 80%, a downwind of 50% relative to the dyed fabric for size setting, and a lateral width of the horizontal width according to the pattern. Stereotype, the overall pattern alignment size is controlled within 0.3-0.5CM. Through the selection of material weaving, special dyeing and finishing process (relaxed refining - predetermined - dyeing - forming), used in the production of high-grade jacquard elastic three-layer fabric, improved the limitations of the three-layer fabric in terms of elasticity, with a soft touch and elasticity, The cloth surface is exquisite and has no squeezing effect on the toes. The shoes made by the invention give a feeling of easy and unconstrained feeling, and the process technology is woven into a shoe type last time, which not only protects the environment, but also simplifies the production process of the upper and improves the production. Efficiency, reducing production costs, giving people a new green and healthy comfort.

以上所述僅為本發明的實施例,並非因此限制本發明的專利範圍,凡是利用本發明說明書內容所作的等效結構或等效流程變換,或直接或間接運用在其他相關的技術領域,均同理包括在本發明的專利保護範圍內。The above is only the embodiment of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the scope of the invention, and the equivalent structure or equivalent process transformation made by using the content of the specification of the present invention, or directly or indirectly applied in other related technical fields, The same is included in the scope of patent protection of the present invention.

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Claims (5)

一種彈性提花三層網布的製備方法,其方法步驟包括: a)機械包覆紗製備:將外包纖維長絲旋轉並纏繞在被勻速牽伸的芯絲氨綸上; b)三層網布製備:將機械包覆紗、滌綸或錦綸單絲、滌綸或錦綸纖維和氨綸通過經編方式織成三層網布,使得三層網布的面部材質為機械包覆紗,中間層材質為滌綸或錦綸單絲,底部材質為滌綸或錦綸纖維和氨綸; c)面部提花:通過提花方式在三層網布的面部提出設計圖案。A method for preparing an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh, the method steps comprising: a) preparing a mechanical covering yarn: rotating and wrapping the outer fiber filament on a uniformly drawn core silk spandex; b) preparing a three-layer mesh : Mechanically covered yarn, polyester or nylon monofilament, polyester or nylon fiber and spandex are woven into a three-layer mesh by warp knitting, so that the surface material of the three-layer mesh is mechanically covered yarn, and the middle layer is made of polyester or Nylon monofilament, the bottom material is polyester or nylon fiber and spandex; c) Facial jacquard: design pattern on the face of the three-layer mesh by jacquard. 如請求項1所述的彈性提花三層網布的製備方法,其中,步驟a)中製備機械包覆紗程序控制機械包覆紗的粗細為50D-150D滌、錦綸纖維或複合纖維(麻灰)包覆40D氨綸、70D氨綸、100D氨綸。The method for preparing an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh according to claim 1, wherein the step of preparing the mechanical covering yarn in the step a) controls the thickness of the mechanical covering yarn to be 50D-150D polyester, nylon fiber or composite fiber (hemp gray). ) coated with 40D spandex, 70D spandex, 100D spandex. 如請求項1所述的彈性提花三層網布的製備方法,其中,步驟b)為採用經編機織成三層網布,經編過程紗線不經過彈簧片調整張力。The method for preparing an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh according to claim 1, wherein the step b) is woven into a three-layer mesh by a warp knitting machine, and the warp yarn is adjusted by the warp yarn without adjusting the tension. 如請求項1所述的彈性提花三層網布的製備方法,其還包括以下步驟: d)網布染色: d1)將準備染色的彈性提花三層網布在溫度70-85℃下進行鬆弛,調節布料張力; d2)預定:在溫度185℃-200℃對布料進行縱向微拉定型,縱向微拉至花型比成品圖案花型小1.5-2cm; d3)染色:對預定後的布料進行染色,根據布料纖維控制染色溫度,染色升降溫小於或等於1度/分鐘; d4)成定:在溫度180℃對染色後的布料進行尺寸定型,整體花型對位尺寸控制在於0.3-0.5CM之內。The method for preparing an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh according to claim 1, further comprising the following steps: d) mesh dyeing: d1) relaxing the elastic jacquard three-layer mesh prepared for dyeing at a temperature of 70-85 ° C for relaxation , adjust the cloth tension; d2) predetermined: the fabric is longitudinally micro-drawn at a temperature of 185 ° C -200 ° C, the longitudinal micro-pull to the pattern is 1.5-2 cm smaller than the finished pattern; d3) dyeing: the predetermined fabric is Dyeing, control dyeing temperature according to fabric fiber, dyeing temperature rise and fall is less than or equal to 1 degree/minute; d4) Set: The dyed fabric is dimensioned at a temperature of 180 °C, and the overall pattern alignment size is controlled at 0.3-0.5CM within. 如請求項4所述的彈性提花三層網布的製備方法,其中, 步驟d1)中控制布料行進速度在10Y/分鐘; 步驟d2)中控制布料行進速度在5-8Y/分鐘; 步驟d3)中控制布料行進速度在250-300Y/分鐘; 步驟d4)中控制布料行進速度在5-8Y/分鐘。The method for preparing an elastic jacquard three-layer mesh according to claim 4, wherein the traveling speed of the cloth is controlled to be 10Y/min in step d1); the traveling speed of the cloth is controlled to be 5-8Y/min in step d2); step d3) The medium control cloth travel speed is 250-300Y/min; in step d4), the cloth travel speed is controlled at 5-8Y/min.
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