CN103142437A - Application of Amygdalus pedunculatus pall oil to cosmetic field - Google Patents

Application of Amygdalus pedunculatus pall oil to cosmetic field Download PDF

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CN103142437A
CN103142437A CN2013100920860A CN201310092086A CN103142437A CN 103142437 A CN103142437 A CN 103142437A CN 2013100920860 A CN2013100920860 A CN 2013100920860A CN 201310092086 A CN201310092086 A CN 201310092086A CN 103142437 A CN103142437 A CN 103142437A
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oil
amygdalus
skin
amygdalus pedunculata
pedunculata pall
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CN103142437B (en
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李聪
申烨华
藏小妹
陈邦
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Northwest University
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Abstract

The invention discloses application of Amygdalus pedunculatus pall oil to the cosmetic field, wherein the Amygdalus pedunculatus pall oil is used as base oil to be massaged on the skin of the face and the body directly or after being added with essential oil; or the Amygdalus pedunculatus pall oil is used as one of raw materials to make moisturizer, skincare lotion, pasty mask, or hand cream and the like for daily nursing care of the skin; or the Amygdalus pedunculatus pall oil is used as one of raw materials to make cleansing oil and facial cleanser for cleaning the skin of the face; or the Amygdalus pedunculatus pall oil is adopted as an ultravioresistant oil-soluble main element to protect the skin; or the Amygdalus pedunculatus pall oil is adopted as one of raw materials of liquid shampoo, hair conditioner or hair oil for the daily nursing care of the hair.

Description

The application of amygdalus pedunculata pall oil in cosmetic field
Technical field
The present invention relates to the application of amygdalus pedunculata pall oil in cosmetics.
Background technology
Prunus pedunculata Maxim. have another name called handle almond, Fructus seu semen pruni szechuanicae ( Amygdalus pedunculataPall.), be the machaka of Rosaceae Amygdalus, be distributed in mountain region and the desert region of NORTHWEST CHINA arid, semiarid zone, mainly in North Shaanxi, Banner North Yinshan Mountain, Inner Mongolia shallow mountain area, also there is distribution the some areas such as Xinjiang, Ningxia, Hebei.Prunus pedunculata Maxim. has stronger preventing and fixing sand ability, and its kernel is rich in oils and fats, crude protein, has higher economic worth, is the first-selected seeds of administering northern Desert Area development woody oleiferous plants base.2011, the State Administration of Forestry ratified 1,000,000 mu of Yulin Prefectures Prunus pedunculata Maxim. planting scheme.At present, begin to take shape in the Prunus pedunculata Maxim. base.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to provide the application of amygdalus pedunculata pall oil in cosmetic field, and amygdalus pedunculata pall oil is nursing skin and hair effectively, the effect such as have deep layer nourishing, moisturizing, uvioresistant, clean, beautify.
Implementation procedure of the present invention is as follows:
(1) the Prunus pedunculata Maxim. kernel is through decortication, remove impurity, drying;
(2) the Prunus pedunculata Maxim. kernel squeezes and gets oil, and feeding temperature is no more than 35 ℃, and oil outlet temperature is no more than 50 ℃;
(3) oils and fats after the squeezing namely gets amygdalus pedunculata pall oil through precipitation, filtration.
Amygdalus pedunculata pall oil can be used for cosmetic field, and described cosmetics are quintessence oil, emollient cream, makeup remover, facial milk cleanser, surfactant, hand cream, facial film, suntan lotion, hair conditioner, shampoo or hair oil.
Amygdalus pedunculata pall oil is as base oil; directly or add the skin massaging that is used for facial and health after quintessence oil; or make emollient cream, surfactant, cream pack or hand cream etc. as one of raw material; be used for the skin daily nursing, or as one of raw material of making makeup remover, facial milk cleanser, be used for the cleaning of skin of face; or as anti-ultraviolet major oil soluble components; can protect skin, or as one of raw material of shampoo, hair conditioner or hair oil, be used for the daily nursing of hair.
Prunus pedunculata Maxim. kernel oil content is 45% ~ 58%, and in its oils and fats, unsaturated fatty acid content up to 96% ~ 98%, is mainly 66% ~ 72% oleic acid, 26% ~ 30% linoleic acid, and rich in vitamin E, and content is higher than 40mg/100g.The oils and fats that oleic acid content is high can effectively suppress the generation of peroxide, and vitamin E also has stronger oxidation resistance, therefore, the amygdalus pedunculata pall oil good stability, not perishable.The amygdalus pedunculata pall oil relative density is 0.900 ~ 0.960; saponification number is 185 ~ 193, and iodine number is 106 ~ 120 (seeing Table 1), is a kind of semi-drying oils and fats; amygdalus pedunculata pall oil is as one of raw material of cosmetics, the effect that can play protection and nourish skin and hair after using.The characteristic that amygdalus pedunculata pall oil is different from other plant oil is can also keep liquid condition when temperature is reduced to subzero 5 ℃.It also has and absorbs preferably ultraviolet performance.Therefore, amygdalus pedunculata pall oil can be used as high-quality used for cosmetic crude vegetal.
Figure 671459DEST_PATH_IMAGE002
Annotate: C n:w, wherein n represents carbon number in fatty acid carbon chain, w represents the number of unsaturated bond.
Advantage of the present invention:
(1) the present invention is take high-quality psammophytes amygdalus pedunculata pall oil as raw material, be used for the aspects such as massage oil, emollient cream, surfactant, cream pack, facial milk cleanser, can effectively improve skin, improve the skin moisturizing degree, resist ultraviolet radiation, reach the purpose of skin nursing; Be used for the aspects such as shampoo, hair conditioner, hair oil, the purpose that can reach cleaning, nurse, beautify hair.
(2) take the psammophytes Prunus pedunculata Maxim. as raw material, on the one hand can be cosmetic field novel oiliness raw material is provided, Desert Control and resource are taken full advantage of combine on the other hand, have wide DEVELOPMENT PROSPECT.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is that amygdalus pedunculata pall oil is used in one week of hand front and back design sketch as the skin protection base oil, and A figure is before using, and B figure is after using;
Fig. 2 is that the facial cream that contains amygdalus pedunculata pall oil is used in facial two all front and back design sketchs, and A figure is before using, and B figure is after using;
Fig. 3 is the UV extinction spectrum figure of amygdalus pedunculata pall oil;
Fig. 4 is that amygdalus pedunculata pall oil is used on the forearm that contains color make-up as makeup remover and common makeup remover, and the A place is the action effect of amygdalus pedunculata pall oil, and the B place is the action effect of common makeup remover.
The specific embodiment
(1) the Prunus pedunculata Maxim. kernel after shelling, remove impurity, is used the drying equipment hot air drying, and the kernel temperature is lower than 50 ℃, and moisture is lower than 6wt%;
(2) the Prunus pedunculata Maxim. kernel is put into oil press and squeezed and get oil, during charging, Prunus pedunculata Maxim. kernel temperature is no more than 35 ℃, and oil outlet temperature is no more than 50 ℃;
(3) oils and fats after the squeezing is amygdalus pedunculata pall oil after precipitation, simple filtration, and is standby.
Embodiment 1: get appropriate amygdalus pedunculata pall oil and directly be applied in hand, face or body skin, gently rub and be massaged into skin and absorb, before and after one week design sketch is as seen to be used in hand from Fig. 1 amygdalus pedunculata pall oil; Amygdalus pedunculata pall oil makes the Skin Cell softness flexible, can reach the effect of moisturizing skin.
Embodiment 2: similar to Example 1, difference is when using facial cream or emulsion, drips 1 ~ 2 amygdalus pedunculata pall oil, can form hydrophobic film at skin surface, and as seen the facial cream that contains amygdalus pedunculata pall oil from Fig. 2 is used in facial two all front and back design sketchs; The facial cream that contains amygdalus pedunculata pall oil can suppress the evaporation of epidermis moisture, prevents xerosis cutis, coarse.
Embodiment 3: similar to Example 1, and get appropriate amygdalus pedunculata pall oil and directly be applied in hand, face or body skin, gently to rub and be massaged into the skin absorption, amygdalus pedunculata pall oil can strengthen the anti-ultraviolet ability of skin, and protective effect is provided.
Embodiment 4: similar to Example 1, get appropriate amygdalus pedunculata pall oil and directly be applied in the face that contains color make-up, soft massage, facial with flushing with clean water, from Fig. 3 amygdalus pedunculata pall oil as makeup remover and common makeup remover be used in contain color make-up the forearm Contrast on effect as seen: amygdalus pedunculata pall oil can the removal color make-up, improves the cleannes of skin.
Embodiment 5: similar to Example 1, difference is when using makeup remover, drips 2 ~ 3 amygdalus pedunculata pall oils, can directly be used in face, increases the ability of product cleaning skin, and facial by massage in use, can reach the purpose of skin protection.
Embodiment 6: because quintessence oil concentration is higher, directly use is stronger to the zest of skin, can with amygdalus pedunculata pall oil as base oil, add quintessence oil and use.Take the 10ml amygdalus pedunculata pall oil as example, add 2 ~ 3 Flos Rosae Rugosae quintessence oils, can directly be applied to face, life-time service can be desalinated mottle, pale skin.
Embodiment 7: similar to Example 6, difference is to add 4 ~ 6 Herba Lysimachiae foenum-graeci quintessence oil in the 10ml amygdalus pedunculata pall oil, is used for the massage of health skin, and life-time service can help the skin toxin expelling, improve sleep, and with rear lubricious and oiliness, the oiliness sense is little.
Embodiment 8: a kind of natural skin care quintessence oil, and each component and content thereof (take mass fraction) are amygdalus pedunculata pall oil 90% ~ 98%; White oil 1% ~ 6%; All the other are alginic acid, are fit to daily skin protection and use.
Embodiment 9: a kind of moisturizing hand cream, and each component and content thereof (take mass fraction) are amygdalus pedunculata pall oil 10% ~ 24%; Stearic acid 2% ~ 7%; Glycerol monostearate 1% ~ 3%; Lanoline 1% ~ 6%; Glycerol 4% ~ 8%; Vitamin E 0.1% ~ 1%; Essence is appropriate; All the other are deionized water.
Embodiment 10: a kind of facial milk cleanser, and each component and content thereof (take mass fraction) are amygdalus pedunculata pall oil 8% ~ 15%; Stearic acid 3% ~ 6%; Glycerol monostearate 7% ~ 13%; Hexadecanol-octadecanol (mixed alcohol) 3% ~ 9%; Glycerol 4% ~ 8%; Triethanolamine 1% ~ 2%; Camomile extract 1% ~ 2%; Antiseptic is appropriate; Essence is appropriate; All the other are deionized water.
Embodiment 11: a kind of anti-ultraviolet surfactant, and each component and content thereof (take mass fraction) are amygdalus pedunculata pall oil 4% ~ 8%; Sodium lactate 3% ~ 6%; Polyoxyethylene hardened castor oil 0.1% ~ 1%; Citric acid 1% ~ 2%; Sodium hydroxide 0.1% ~ 0.5%; Lanoline is appropriate, and essence is appropriate; Antiseptic is appropriate; All the other are deionized water.
Embodiment 12: a kind of gentle emollient cream, and each component and content thereof are (in mass fraction): amygdalus pedunculata pall oil 15% ~ 25%; Glycerol 3% ~ 6%; Lecithin 8% ~ 12%; Butyl myristate 5% ~ 9%; Essence is appropriate; Antiseptic is appropriate; Aloe extract 1% ~ 5%, all the other are deionized water.
Embodiment 13: a kind of cream pack, and each component and content thereof are (in mass fraction): glycerol 7% ~ 15%; Emulsified silicone oil 4% ~ 7%; Amygdalus pedunculata pall oil 5% ~ 13%; Sorbitol 2% ~ 4%; Kaolin 18% ~ 30%; Zinc oxide 2% ~ 3%; Chitin 1% ~ 3%; Lauryl alcohol 4% ~ 6%; Triethanolamine 0.1% ~ 1%; Antiseptic is appropriate; Essence is appropriate; All the other are deionized water.
Embodiment 14: a kind of natural sun-prevention oil, and each component and content thereof are (in mass fraction): amygdalus pedunculata pall oil 45% ~ 60%; Olive oil 15% ~ 23%; Liquid paraffin 5% ~ 15%; Essence is appropriate; All the other are the salicylic acid peppermint ester.
Embodiment 15: a kind of moist type hair conditioner, and each component and content thereof are (in mass fraction): amygdalus pedunculata pall oil 6% ~ 18%; Alkyl imidazoline 15% ~ 20%; Sodium alginate 1% ~ 2%; Glycerol 4% ~ 6%; Glyceryl monostearate 2% ~ 5%; Vitamin E 0.1% ~ 1%; Antiseptic 0.2% ~ 0.5%; Antioxidant 0.03% ~ 0.5%; Essence 0.3% ~ 0.5%; All the other are deionized water.
Embodiment 16: a kind of conditioning shampoo, and each component and content thereof are (in mass fraction): amygdalus pedunculata pall oil 5% ~ 15%; Sodium laurylsulfate 3% ~ 8%; Cation guar gum 0.3% ~ 1%; Polyvinylpyrrolidone 0.5% ~ 1%; Citric acid 0.1% ~ 1%; Ethylene glycol bis stearate 0.2% ~ 1.5%; EDTA0.05% ~ 0.1%; Propylene glycol 0.1% ~ 1%; Antiseptic is appropriate; Essence 0.2% ~ 1%; All the other are deionized water.
Embodiment 17: a kind of natural hair oil, and each component and content thereof are (in mass fraction): amygdalus pedunculata pall oil 60% ~ 80%; Olive oil 10% ~ 20%; All the other are Oleum Gossypii semen; Essence is appropriate; Antioxidant is appropriate; Pigment is appropriate.
Experimental example 1: the moisturizing effect of amygdalus pedunculata pall oil to skin
1. physical data
Ginseng survey personnel: dry 20 examples of hand skin, dry 20 examples of skin of face, dry 20 examples of body skin.
Sex: women's 35 examples, male's 25 examples.
Age: 15 years old ~ 20 years old, 10 examples; 20 years old ~ 25 years old, 10 examples; 25 years old ~ 30 years old, 10 examples; 30 years old ~ 35 years old, 10 examples; 35 years old ~ 40 years old, 10 examples; 40 years old ~ 45 years old, 10 examples.
Result of use: 1 grade of 41 example, 2 grade of 6 example, 3 grade of 3 example, 4 grade of 0 example.
The blank group, 30 examples, women's 20 examples, male's 10 examples.
2. life cycle and using method
Life cycle: surrounding is a cycle.
Using method: amygdalus pedunculata pall oil evenly is applied to hand, face and body skin, every day 2 times, each 1 time sooner or later.
3. effect criterion
Effect is divided into 4 grades
1 grade: in 7 days, xerosis cutis is obviously improved, and improves more than 90%.
2 grades: in 14 days, xerosis cutis improves, and improves 70% ~ 90%.
3 grades: in 21 days, xerosis cutis makes moderate progress, and improves 30% ~ 70%.
4 grades: in 28 days, xerosis cutis is improved very littlely, improves below 30%.
4. result of use sees Table 2
Figure 588600DEST_PATH_IMAGE003
5. blank group observed result sees Table 3
Figure 495900DEST_PATH_IMAGE004
6. conclusion
Amygdalus pedunculata pall oil has the moisturizing effect, and hand, face and body skin drying are had significant curative effect.Keep the bioactive ingredients of pure natural by the amygdalus pedunculata pall oil of low temperature pressing, be mainly unsaturated fatty acid, very approaching with the human body lipid, thereby it is better to ooze skin, human body skin also is easy to absorb.Lasting use contains the cosmetics of amygdalus pedunculata pall oil, and dry skin will improve greatly, and skin can be more moist, smooth, flexible.
7. typical experimenter
The experimenter one:
Zhang, the women, 24 years old, the university students, hand skin is dry, is coated with sooner or later every day with amygdalus pedunculata pall oil, and after using continuously a week, hand skin moistens smooth, and conscious skin is comfortable.
The experimenter two:
Yan, the women, 40 years old, computer office was often used in accounting, and the dry coarse tarnish of skin of face is coated with sooner or later with amygdalus pedunculata pall oil every day, and after two weeks, the coarse situation of xerosis cutis is obviously improved, and continues to use after two months, and the facial exquisiteness of moistening is glossy.
The experimenter three:
Deng, the male, 33 years old, outdoor coach worked for a long time out of doors, body skin is dry, desquamation, is coated with sooner or later every day with amygdalus pedunculata pall oil, and after using continuously for two weeks, desquamation alleviates, subjective symptoms makes moderate progress, and after one month, skin smooth moistens comfortable, recovers normal.
Experimental example 2: contain the facial cream of amygdalus pedunculata pall oil to the moist effect of face
1. physical data
Ginseng survey personnel: dry desquamation 20 examples of skin of face, women's 8 examples wherein, male's 12 examples, 18 ~ 45 years old age.
2. life cycle and using method
Life cycle: surrounding is a cycle.
Using method: contain facial cream every day 2 times of amygdalus pedunculata pall oil, each 1 time sooner or later, evenly be applied to face.
3. effect criterion
1 grade: in 7 days, facial dry desquamation phenomenon disappears.
2 grades: in 14 days, facial dry desquamation phenomenon improves, and improves more than 70%.
3 grades: in 21 days, facial dry desquamation phenomenon makes moderate progress, and improves 30% ~ 70%.
4 grades: in 28 days, facial dry desquamation phenomenon is improved very littlely, improves below 30%.
4. result
1 grade of 13 example, 2 grade of 4 example, 3 grade of 3 example, how 4 grade of 0 example works after using a week, and skin of face moistens glossy, without any untoward reaction.
5. conclusion
Product of the present invention has the moisturizing effect, and facial xerosis cutis desquamation is had good curative effect.
Experimental example 3: the uvioresistant effect of amygdalus pedunculata pall oil and olive oil relatively
1. analytical method
(1) amygdalus pedunculata pall oil, olive oil are quantitatively diluted with appropriate cyclohexane extraction;
(2) adopt wave spectrum collection of illustrative plates-ultraviolet spectrophotometer (Japanese Shimadzu SHIMADZU UV-2550) to analyze;
(3) absorbing wavelength is selected 200 ~ 400nm.
2. conclusion
Experimental result as shown in Figure 4, the amygdalus pedunculata pall oil maximum absorption wavelength appears at the 212nm place, the olive oil maximum absorption wavelength appears at the 208nm place, can illustrate that amygdalus pedunculata pall oil and olive oil have to absorb ultraviolet characteristic.And with the absorbance of the amygdalus pedunculata pall oil of the concentration height than olive oil, further illustrate amygdalus pedunculata pall oil and have the ultraviolet characteristic of stronger absorption, can better protect skin to avoid ultraviolet invasion.
Experimental example 4: the action effect that contains the facial milk cleanser of amygdalus pedunculata pall oil
1. object of study: general skin quality person's 50 examples.
2. using method: facial with product cleaning of the present invention, early, evening each once, used continuously for 4 weeks.
3. experimental result: feel comfortable person's 44 examples, sensation general person 6 examples.
Experimental example 5: amygdalus pedunculata pall oil is as the action effect of cleansing cosmetic
Estimate amygdalus pedunculata pall oil as outward appearance, character, the cosmetics of cleansing cosmetic come off, washability and combination property.
1. analytical method
(1) outward appearance
◇: transparent
Zero: translucent
(2) character
◇: aqueous
*: non-aqueous
(3) cosmetics come off
The dropping situations of lipstick: lipstick (Maybelline system) is coated on forearm, diameter 2cm, after standing 2 hours dryings, effect is the 2mL amygdalus pedunculata pall oil approximately, and rubs massage with light finger.Then rinse with flowing water, observe the residual condition of lipstick, criterion is as follows.
The dropping situations of mascara: mascara (the blue system of card appearance) is coated on forearm, diameter 2cm, after standing 2 hours dryings, effect is the 2mL amygdalus pedunculata pall oil approximately, and rubs massage with light finger.Then rinse with flowing water, observe the residual condition of lipstick, criterion is as follows.
◇: the cosmetics situation that comes off is good
Zero: the cosmetics situation that comes off is general
△: the cosmetics situation that comes off is slightly poor
*: the cosmetics situation that comes off is poor
(4) washability
Amygdalus pedunculata pall oil approximately is applied in fore-arm in the 2g left and right, the easy washability when estimating with warm water washing.
◇: easily rinse, without greasy feeling
Zero: easily rinse
△: the difficult flushing
*: can not rinse, have oil residual on skin
(5) combination property
By 20 cosmetics experts, amygdalus pedunculata pall oil is estimated as the result of use of makeup remover.Lipstick and mascara are coated in respectively face, after dry 2 hours, get about 2g amygdalus pedunculata pall oil in moistening but do not contain the palm of the globule, then act on face, soft massage makes amygdalus pedunculata pall oil be coated with out in whole face, then uses warm water washing.Estimate amygdalus pedunculata pall oil as cosmetics dropping situations, washability and the comfort level of makeup remover.
◇: in 20 people, 18 people and above answer are well
In zero: 20 people, 14 ~ 16 people answer
△: in 20 people, 9 ~ 11 people answer
*: in 20 people, 5 people and following answer are well
2. conclusion
Amygdalus pedunculata pall oil sees Table 4 as the action effect of cleansing cosmetic, and by table 4 as can be known, product makeup removing effect of the present invention is better, not only can improve the skin clean degree, also can reach the purpose of skin protection by continuous massage skin when using.
Figure 891110DEST_PATH_IMAGE005

Claims (5)

1. the application of amygdalus pedunculata pall oil in cosmetic field.
2. use according to claim 1, it is characterized in that described cosmetics are quintessence oil, emollient cream, makeup remover, facial milk cleanser, surfactant, hand cream, facial film, suntan lotion, hair conditioner, shampoo or hair oil.
3. use according to claim 1, the quality percentage composition that it is characterized in that unsaturated fatty acid in described amygdalus pedunculata pall oil is 96% ~ 98%, and content of vitamin E is 40 ~ 120 mg/100g, and relative density is 0.900 ~ 0.960, saponification number is 185 ~ 193, and iodine number is 106 ~ 120.
4. use according to claim 3, it is characterized in that described amygdalus pedunculata pall oil adopts the low-temperature cold pressing preparation.
5. use according to claim 4, it is characterized in that the amygdalus pedunculata pall oil preparation process is:
(1) the Prunus pedunculata Maxim. kernel is through decortication, remove impurity, drying;
(2) the Prunus pedunculata Maxim. kernel squeezes and gets oil, and feeding temperature is no more than 35 ℃, and oil outlet temperature is no more than 50 ℃;
(3) oils and fats after the squeezing namely gets amygdalus pedunculata pall oil through precipitation, filtration.
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