CN102995200A - Silkworm pupa protein fiber blended yarns, moisture-absorbing suspension ultraviolet-resistant fabric, spinning method and production process - Google Patents
Silkworm pupa protein fiber blended yarns, moisture-absorbing suspension ultraviolet-resistant fabric, spinning method and production process Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention discloses silkworm pupa protein fiber blended yarns. The silkworm pupa protein fiber blended yarns are blended yarns of silkworm pupas, terylene and cotton in a blending weight ratio of 50:25:25, and the linear density of the blended yarns of the silkworm pupas, the terylene and the cotton is 14.8tex. The invention also discloses a moisture-absorbing suspension ultraviolet-resistant fabric using the silkworm pupa protein fiber blended yarns, a spinning method of the silkworm pupa protein fiber blended yarns, and a production process of the moisture-absorbing suspension ultraviolet-resistant fabric. The silkworm pupa protein fiber blended yarns comprehensive adopt silkworm pupa protein fiber, terylene fiber and cotton fiber, and the ratio and the linear density of the three types of fibers enable the three types of fibers to give full play to advantages, and weaken the defects of each fiber. The moisture-absorbing suspension ultraviolet-resistant fabric meets requirements on attractive appearance, overcomes the defects of silkworm pupa protein short fibers, has the properties of good moisture absorption, suspension, ultraviolet resistance, comfort, sanitation and the like, is molded during production through one step, saves the cost and energy resources, and has high added values.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to textile technology field, relate in particular to a kind of blended yarn, moisture absorption dangle uvioresistant fabric and corresponding spinning method and production technology.
Background technology
Under the overall background of Global Oil resource scarcity, the synthetic fiber production cost can be progressively high, and the growth of amount also can suffer restraints; Along with growth in the living standard, people have also had higher requirement to comfortableness, the feature of environmental protection of textiles and dress ornament simultaneously, and the natural function textiles progressively becomes the market mainstream.Advocating " green " has become a kind of global consumption tide, and increasing consumer orientation is in buying human health and environmentally friendly ecological safety product.The holy mulberry silkworm chrysalis azelon that the U.S. new fiber materials of Yibin favour company produces, smooth such as real silk with it, soft characteristics like cashmere, and 18 seed amino acids that contain of the pupa albumen skin of can moistening, uvioresistant, the characteristics such as environmental protection receive the concern that underwear, family such as spin at the industry.The all good characteristics of holy mulberry silkworm chrysalis azelon are located its main scope of application and are contact skin series products.
" Sheng Sang " pupa albumen fiber is comprehensive utilization Polymer Technology, synthetic fiber spinning technology, biotechnology, after pupa albumen and native cellulose blend, and the novel biomass fiber of making.In process, adopt high-tech technique, so during fibre forming, albumen mass-energy is enriched in the surface of fiber, forms the protein fibre of skin-core structure.This is with good animal protein+pure natural plant fibre, make the invention of novel All Pure Nature biomass fiber, obtaining national inventing patent (ZL 03135631.3), is the again great innovation on world's artificial fibre invention history, the new era of having started the fiber history.It is take pupa albumen and native cellulose as raw material, and its raw material silkworm chrysalis has stronger recyclability, can not threaten to earth resource, meets the requirement of Green Textiles.More valuable is that its raw material is discarded after reeling silk from cocoons originally, and these characteristics realize that in current resource conservation sustainable development is very valuable.
With the thread fabric of pupa albumen yarn, satisfy the following fashion trend developing direction of clothes, that is: frivolous, elegant, comfortable, be rich in texture, functional, environmental protection, health care etc.The exploitation fabric is suitable makees next to the skin the wearing the clothes in summer such as women's dress skirt, shirt, be intended to use the premium properties of pupa albumen staple fibre and the woven new product of pupa albumen fiber that new technology development goes out to have high-tech, top grade, high added value, to increase the kind of textiles, satisfy the demands of consumers.But lack in the market take into account moisture absorption, dangle, the fabric of the performances such as uvioresistant, comfortable, health.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of Novel rearing pupa protein fiber blended yarn.
The present invention also aims to provide a kind of and have good moisture absorption, dangle, the uvioresistant fabric is dangled in the moisture absorption of the performance such as uvioresistant, comfortable, health.
The present invention also aims to provide a kind of spinning method of making above-mentioned pupa albumen fiber blend yarn.
The present invention also aims to provide a kind of utilizes described spinning method to make the dangle production technology of uvioresistant fabric of described moisture absorption.
For achieving the above object, pupa albumen fiber blend yarn of the present invention is silkworm chrysalis/wash/silk/cotton blended yarn, and the blending part by weight of silkworm chrysalis/wash/cotton is 50:25:25, and the line density of described blended yarn is 14.8tex.
This dangle fabric construction of uvioresistant fabric of the moisture absorption that provides is provided is plain weave ground jacquard weave lattice, all adopts described pupa albumen fiber blend yarn through weft yarn; The ground tissue of described plain weave ground jacquard weave lattice adopts plain weave; The jacquard weave lattice of described plain weave ground jacquard weave lattice adopt mock leno weave; Described plain weave ground jacquard weave lattice have 60 warp thread and 60 weft yarns in a Weaving Cycle, be distributed with 2 open-work jacquard weave lattice; 433/the 10cm of warp count of described plain weave ground jacquard weave lattice, 236/10cm of weft count.
The spinning method of the above-mentioned pupa albumen fiber blend yarn of manufacturing of the present invention comprises five processes successively, and the first operation is respectively pupa albumen fiber, polyster fibre, cotton fiber to be carried out opening picking, and the blending part by weight of silkworm chrysalis/wash/cotton is 50:25:25; Second operation work is comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning, namely pupa albumen fiber, polyster fibre and cotton fiber is carried out respectively comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning; Three process is drafting, first pupa albumen fiber, polyster fibre is carried out respectively pre-drawing, again to the pupa albumen fiber behind the pre-drawing respectively, polyster fibre and to carry out three roads without the cotton fiber that pre-drawing is processed mixed also; Drawing frame uses anti-tangle roller in the mixing in doubling step; The 4th road is Roving Frames; The 5th road is spinning process, adopts the match network to spin in the spinning process, and obtaining line density behind the spinning process is the blended woven fabric yarn of 14.8tex.
The technological parameter of the spinning process that employing match network spins is: front roller speed 178 r/min, back zone drafting multiple 1.21, twist factor 390, roller gauge 18 * 31 mm, horn mouth 3.5 * 2.5mm, collector 3.0mm, roller is middle hardness roller, steel traveler uses FO9/0, speed of a motor vehicle 180r/min, ingot speed 14454r/min.
Provided by the inventionly utilize described spinning method to make the dangle production technology of uvioresistant fabric of described moisture absorption to be: weave after spinning is finished, weaving process comprises successively winding procedure, warping process, sizing operation, passes operation and weaving process; The slurry formula that adopts in the sizing operation is: add 37.5 kilograms of PVA-1799,12.5 kilograms of CD-747,62.5 kilograms of phosphates, 20 kilograms of QL-89 and 3 kilograms of SLMO-02 in the mixing cirtern of 1 meter of diameter, add entry and make the slurries height in the mixing cirtern reach 90 centimetres.
The technological parameter that adopts in the winding procedure is: S:+140% * 1.5cm, L:+40% * 20cm, T:-40% * 20cm.
The present invention has following advantage:
1. pupa albumen fiber blend yarn of the present invention has comprehensively adopted pupa albumen, terylene and cotton three kinds of fibers, and its proportioning and line density can be given full play to the advantage of each fiber, the defective that reduction exists separately; Utilize pupa albumen fiber blend yarn of the present invention can produce the moisture absorption uvioresistant fabric that dangles.
2. the moisture absorption of the present invention uvioresistant fabric that dangles has adopted plain weave ground jacquard weave lattice tissue aspect the cooperation organizing.The ground tissue adopts more closely plain weave, and ABRASION RESISTANCE is good, and the jacquard weave lattice adopt mock leno weave, produces the open-work effect of nature, the moisture absorbing and sweat releasing ability of enhanced products.Dexterously with two kinds of tissue associatings, make graceful fancy cage work in the design.Its outward appearance novelty is aughty, has both satisfied requirement attractive in appearance, and plain weave has satisfied wear-resisting, the durable requirement of fabric simultaneously, and mock leno weave is so that thoroughly wet, the gas permeability enhancing of fabric.
3. for the low characteristics of pupa albumen fiber strength, when spinning, adopt match network spinning technique, so that the yarn that is spun into has the structure of similar strand of yarn, powerful for improving, promote blended yarn fineness and intensity, improve bar and do, reduce slubbing, details and filoplume, and there is very significantly effect the aspects such as weavability that improve yarn, significantly promoted the yarn quality class, embody better the wearability of fabric, and alleviated the pressure (normally when sizing, taking measures to reduce filoplume etc. in the prior art) of later process.The present invention utilizes match network spinning technique to reduce filoplume, slubbing, details etc. when spinning, so that institute's yarn strength is high, bar makes a good job of, and any surface finish compared with prior art belongs in the source and processes, and not only better effects if has also been saved cost simultaneously.
4. the moisture absorption of the present invention uvioresistant fabric that dangles has 60 warp thread and 60 weft yarns in a Weaving Cycle, be distributed with 2 open-work jacquard weave lattice, so that this fabric take plain weave and mock leno weave as elementary organization, organizes alternate configurations to make graceful fancy cage works for two kinds.Its plain weave has satisfied wear-resisting, the durable requirement of fabric, and mock leno weave is so that thoroughly wet, the gas permeability enhancing of fabric.
5. moisture absorption of the present invention is dangled the uvioresistant fabric by the design of tissue and suitable process of manufacture, and it is light and soft to reach quality, smooth comfortable, moisture absorbing and sweat releasing, uvioresistant, the resultant effect of outward appearance unique and beautiful.Whole producing process set practicality, functional, ornamental being integrated, simultaneously technological process is short, can produce on common production equipment, and processing cost is low, less energy consumption.
6. drawing frame uses anti-tangle roller when pre-drawing and drafting, can increase the rubber roll antistatic property.
The pupa albumen fiber with polyster fibre mixed and before first through the pre-drawing operation, again through three roads mixed also (being mixing in doubling step), can improve the uniformity of three kinds of fibers after the blending.
8. the concrete technology parameter of spinning process is so that match network spinning technique can be used in spinning process well.
The fabric of the performances such as moisture absorption provided by the invention dangles that the uvioresistant fabric has good moisture absorption concurrently, dangles, uvioresistant, comfortable, health has utilized the premium properties of pupa albumen staple fibre, has overcome again the deficiency of pupa albumen staple fibre simultaneously.The moisture absorption of the present invention uvioresistant fabric outward appearance unique and beautiful of dangling, washability is strong; Cost and the energy are saved in the production process one-shot forming, and added value is high.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is the dangle looming draft of uvioresistant fabric of moisture absorption of the present invention.
The specific embodiment
The invention discloses a kind of pupa albumen fiber blend yarn, described pupa albumen fiber blend yarn is silkworm chrysalis/wash/silk/cotton blended yarn, the blending part by weight of silkworm chrysalis/wash/cotton is 50:25:25, and the line density of described blended yarn is that 14.8tex(tex specifically refers to the weight grams of 1000 meters long yarns when official regain).
The invention also discloses the spinning method of above-mentioned pupa albumen fiber blend yarn, the method comprises five processes successively, and the first operation is respectively silkworm chrysalis/wash/cotton to be carried out opening picking, and the blending part by weight of silkworm chrysalis/wash/cotton is 50:25:25;
The second operation work comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning is namely carried out respectively comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning to pupa albumen fiber, polyster fibre and cotton fiber.Take during comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning " low velocity, gently hinder quantitatively, less fiber, reclaim more, suitable tension force " technological principle.
Three process is drafting, first pupa albumen fiber, polyster fibre is carried out respectively pre-drawing, again to the pupa albumen fiber behind the pre-drawing respectively, polyster fibre and to carry out three roads without the cotton fiber that pre-drawing is processed mixed also; Drawing frame uses anti-tangle roller when pre-drawing and drafting.
The 4th road is Roving Frames.The back area draft that Roving Frames suitably amplifies rove spaces, and is beneficial to reduce drafting force, reduces slubbing quantity and improves into Yarn Evenness.Do not go out at spun yarn under the prerequisite of hardhead, roving twist should be suitably bigger than normal, can improve like this inherent quality of rove, is conducive to spinning-drafting.The suitable suitable control less than normal of rove back zone drafting multiple, the proparea drafting multiple should be suitably bigger than normal, and is flat to guarantee rove bar solid carbon dioxide.
The 5th road is spinning process, adopts the match network to spin in the spinning process, and the blended woven fabric that obtains line density behind the spinning process and be 14.8tex is with yarn (being the pupa albumen fiber blend yarn).The technological parameter of the spinning process that employing match network spins is: front roller speed 178 r/min(rev/mins), back zone drafting multiple 1.21, twist factor 390, roller gauge 18 * 31 mm, horn mouth 3.5 * 2.5mm, collector 3.0mm, roller is middle hardness roller, steel traveler uses FO9/0, speed of a motor vehicle 180r/min, ingot speed 14454r/min.
The technological principle of spinning process is: suitably strengthen back zone drafting multiple, dwindle nip gauge, be conducive to improve bar evenness; Suitably reduce the speed of a motor vehicle, can reduce end breakage rate.By heavily pressurization and suitably roller gauge bigger than normal, can the balance drafting force, make it to adapt with grasping force, guarantee fiber stable motion in drafting process, improve the flat purpose of bar solid carbon dioxide to reach.
As shown in Figure 1, the invention also discloses a kind of moisture absorption of using above-mentioned pupa albumen fiber blend yarn uvioresistant fabric that dangles, the fabric construction of this fabric is plain weave ground jacquard weave lattice, all adopts described pupa albumen fiber blend yarn through weft yarn.The ground tissue of described plain weave ground jacquard weave lattice adopts plain weave.The jacquard weave lattice of described plain weave ground jacquard weave lattice adopt mock leno weave.433/the 10cm of warp count of described plain weave ground jacquard weave lattice, 236/10cm of weft count.Described plain weave ground jacquard weave lattice have 60 warp thread and 60 weft yarns in a Weaving Cycle, be distributed with 2 open-work jacquard weave lattice.The dangle quality of the every square meter of uvioresistant fabric fabric of moisture absorption of the present invention is 123.3 grams.
The invention also discloses the dangle production technology of uvioresistant fabric of above-mentioned moisture absorption, comprise spinning method and weaving process by production sequence.
Spinning method is identical with the spinning method of above-mentioned pupa albumen fiber blend yarn, repeats no more herein.
Weave after spinning is finished, weaving process comprises successively winding procedure, warping process, sizing operation, passes operation and weaving process.
The technological parameter that adopts in the winding procedure is: S(is short slub) :+140% * 1.5cm, L(i.e. long slubbing) :+40% * 20cm, T(are details) :-40% * 20cm.
Winding procedure points for attention: adopt small tension receiving coil, jogging speed technique.Suitably reduce the speed of a motor vehicle, reduce yarn tension, prevent that bar from doing deterioration and cotton knot increases, require the doff passage bright and clean, adopt air splicer, and pay close attention to joint quality constantly.
The warping process points for attention: warping process tension force is wanted suitable grasp less than normal, adopts the configuration of arc tension force, and the warping speed of a motor vehicle is too not high, warp beam or beam winding density are not too big, and it is smooth to reel, and the soft or hard degree is consistent, avoid yarn elongation excessive, affect its elasticity and brute force.
The slurry formula that adopts in the sizing operation is:
Adding 37.5 kilograms of PVA-1799(in the mixing cirtern of 1 meter of diameter is polyvinyl alcohol), 12.5 kilograms of CD-747(are starch), 62.5 kilograms of phosphates (being converted starch), 20 kilograms of QL-89(are liquid propene acid) and 3 kilograms of SLMO-02(be wax disk(-sc)), add entry and make the interior slurries height of mixing cirtern reach 90 centimetres.
Pass operation and adopt 12 pages of heald frames, front 6 pages and rear 6 pages of segmentations are along wearing, i.e. (123456) * 5+,(78,910 11 12) * 5.
Weaving process points for attention: adopt little opening, the low back rest, larger warp tension to weave.
The above-mentioned moisture absorption uvioresistant fabric that dangles is carried out performance test and analysis (testing according to corresponding GB and industry standard), adopt simultaneously the PTT fabric of close specification as a comparison.Specification and the numbering of tested fabric see table 1 for details.
Table 1
Annotate: PTT is the elasticity terylene.
Measuring required instrument and instrument has: fabric thickness instrument, fabric air-permeability amount instrument, thoroughly wet experimental box, capillary effect analyzer, fabric fall analyzer and fabric ultraviolet protection instrument (being this area normal experiment device).
Experimental procedure is as follows:
1) gas permeability test: the method for testing of fabric breathability is by GB GB/T 5453-1997 " mensuration of textile fabric gas permeability ".Every sample selects 10 place's different parts to measure, fabric experiment area 20cm2, the fabric pressure drop is 100Pa(Pascal), measure vertical air flow rate by the given area of sample in the certain hour, calculate air penetrability.The gas permeability test result is as shown in table 2.
Table 2 unit: mm/s
[0045]
2) poisture-penetrability test: the method for testing of fabric moisture-penetrability is by GB GB/T 12704.1-2009 " textile fabric poisture-penetrability test method part 1: moisture absorption method ".Adopt moisture vapor transmission cup moisture absorption method, filling hygroscopic agent and seal the closed environment that places set point of temperature and humidity with the moisture vapor transmission cup of fabric sample, go out vapor transfer rate according to the change calculations of moisture vapor transmission cup in the certain hour (comprising sample and hygroscopic agent) weight.Every sample cuts three at diverse location, then asks its mean value.Poisture-penetrability test result such as table 3.
Table 3 unit: g/m2h
Annotate: WVT-rate of perviousness, unit is every square metre hour [g/ (m of gram
2H)]; G
1Weight/g before the moisture absorption of-assembly; G
2Weight/g after the moisture absorption of-assembly.
3) lead moist test: fabric wetness guiding performance test method is by industry standard FZ/T 01071-2008 " textiles capillary effect test method ".Cutting of sample is at distance selvedge 1/10th fabric width places, distinguishes longitudinally and horizontal three samples of cutting, and major defect does not have on the sample.Long 30 ㎝ of sample, wide 2.5 ㎝ that are not less than.The result is as shown in table 4 for the fabric wetness guiding property testing.
Table 4 unit: cm
4) drapability test: the method for testing of fabric fall is by industry standard FZ/T 01345-1996 " textile fabric drapability test method ".It is the 240mm circular specimen that every fabric is got 1 diameter, opens the aperture that a diameter is 4mm at the sample center.Each test of both direction that is 45 ° of angles at the warp-wise of sample, broadwise and with warp-wise and broadwise once.Circular specimen is placed between circular clamping disk, use the parallel rays vertical with horizontal direction irradiation, obtain the sample perspective view, the percentage of the projected area of the sample hanging portion of asking by tracing and the ratio of original area is suspended coefficient.The drapability test result is as shown in table 5.
Table 5
5) ultraviolet ray of fabric test: the method for testing of fabric fall is by GB GB/T 18830-2009 " evaluation of ultraviolet resistance of fabric ".An important parameter estimating the fabric ultraviolet protection is Ultraviolet Protection Factor UPF, and this coefficient is used for weighing ultra-violet radiation to the extent of injury of human body.After the UPF value referred to that certain shielding is used, ultra-violet radiation made skin reach the threshold dose required time value of a certain damage (such as erythema, eye injury even carcinogenic etc.) and reaches the ratio of the time value of same extent of injury during without shielding.By this standard test, as the UPF of sample ﹥ 40, and during UPA ﹤ 5%, can be described as " antiultraviolet product ".The uv resistance of fabric can testing result see Table 6.
Table 6
More than by respective standard moisture absorption of the present invention is dangled that the uvioresistant fabric has carried out gas permeability, poisture-penetrability, dangles, the uvioresistant test.Experimental result shows: moisture absorption of the present invention, dangle and moisture absorption, gas permeability, poisture-penetrability and the uvioresistant performance of uvioresistant fabric all good, all meet or exceed standard-required level.
Claims (6)
1. pupa albumen fiber blend yarn is characterized in that: described pupa albumen fiber blend yarn is silkworm chrysalis/wash/silk/cotton blended yarn, and the blending part by weight of silkworm chrysalis/wash/cotton is 50:25:25, and the line density of described blended yarn is 14.8tex.
2. right to use requires the moisture absorption of pupa albumen fiber blend yarn described in the 1 uvioresistant fabric that dangles, and it is characterized in that: this facing fabric structure is plain weave ground jacquard weave lattice, all adopts described pupa albumen fiber blend yarn through weft yarn; The ground tissue of described plain weave ground jacquard weave lattice adopts plain weave;
The jacquard weave lattice of described plain weave ground jacquard weave lattice adopt mock leno weave;
Described plain weave ground jacquard weave lattice have 60 warp thread and 60 weft yarns in a Weaving Cycle, be distributed with 2 open-work jacquard weave lattice;
433/the 10cm of warp count of described plain weave ground jacquard weave lattice, 236/10cm of weft count.
3. the spinning method of the fiber blend yarn of pupa albumen described in the claim 1, it is characterized in that: comprise successively five processes, the first operation is respectively pupa albumen fiber, polyster fibre, cotton fiber to be carried out opening picking, and the blending part by weight of silkworm chrysalis/wash/cotton is 50:25:25;
Second operation work is comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning, namely pupa albumen fiber, polyster fibre and cotton fiber is carried out respectively comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning;
Three process is drafting, first pupa albumen fiber, polyster fibre is carried out respectively pre-drawing, again to the pupa albumen fiber behind the pre-drawing respectively, polyster fibre and to carry out three roads without the cotton fiber that pre-drawing is processed mixed also; Drawing frame uses anti-tangle roller in the mixing in doubling step;
The 4th road is Roving Frames;
The 5th road is spinning process, adopts the match network to spin in the spinning process, and obtaining line density behind the spinning process is the blended woven fabric yarn of 14.8tex.
4. spinning method according to claim 4, it is characterized in that: the technological parameter of the spinning process that employing match network spins is: front roller speed 178 r/min, back zone drafting multiple 1.21, twist factor 390, roller gauge 18 * 31 mm, horn mouth 3.5 * 2.5mm, collector 3.0mm, roller are middle hardness roller, and steel traveler uses FO9/0, speed of a motor vehicle 180r/min, ingot speed 14454r/min.
5. right to use requires spinning method described in 4 to make the dangle production technology of uvioresistant fabric of the described moisture absorption of claim 2, it is characterized in that: weave after spinning is finished, weaving process comprises successively winding procedure, warping process, sizing operation, passes operation and weaving process;
The slurry formula that adopts in the sizing operation is:
In the mixing cirtern of 1 meter of diameter, add 37.5 kilograms of PVA-1799,12.5 kilograms of CD-747,62.5 kilograms of phosphates, 20 kilograms of QL-89 and 3 kilograms of SLMO-02, add entry and make the slurries height in the mixing cirtern reach 90 centimetres.
6. production technology according to claim 5, it is characterized in that: the technological parameter that adopts in the winding procedure is: S:+140% * 1.5cm, L:+40% * 20cm, T:-40% * 20cm.
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