CN202466043U - Tencel-blended heavy twist jacquard fabric - Google Patents
Tencel-blended heavy twist jacquard fabric Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN202466043U CN202466043U CN2011205551445U CN201120555144U CN202466043U CN 202466043 U CN202466043 U CN 202466043U CN 2011205551445 U CN2011205551445 U CN 2011205551445U CN 201120555144 U CN201120555144 U CN 201120555144U CN 202466043 U CN202466043 U CN 202466043U
- Authority
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- China
- Prior art keywords
- fabric
- yarn
- twist
- tencel
- blended
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Fee Related
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 33
- 229920000433 Lyocell Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 22
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- 238000011049 filling Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 11
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 abstract description 6
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 abstract description 5
- 238000007639 printing Methods 0.000 abstract description 4
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 18
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 16
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 description 16
- 239000002002 slurry Substances 0.000 description 13
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 10
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 7
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 6
- 238000010025 steaming Methods 0.000 description 6
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 5
- 230000018109 developmental process Effects 0.000 description 4
- 238000001764 infiltration Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 4
- 240000007594 Oryza sativa Species 0.000 description 3
- 235000007164 Oryza sativa Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 description 3
- 235000009566 rice Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 238000009955 starching Methods 0.000 description 3
- 229920001131 Pulp (paper) Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000002708 enhancing Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229910052739 hydrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 239000001257 hydrogen Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000003780 insertion Methods 0.000 description 2
- 125000004805 propylene group Chemical group 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- 229920000715 Mucilage Polymers 0.000 description 1
- LFTLOKWAGJYHHR-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-Methylmorpholine N-oxide Chemical compound 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Abstract
A tencell-blended heavy twist jacquard fabric is disclosed. The fabric is characterized by fabric weave structure of a 1/1+3/1+3/3 openwork fabric, fabric warp density of 435 ends/10 cm, weft density of 273.5 ends/10 cm, width of 165 cm, 70/30LY/CJ11.8tex blended yarns adopted as warp yarns and weft yarns, and yarn twist of 1600 twists/ meter. The beneficial effects of the tencel-blended heavy twist jacquard fabric are that novel environment-protecting material tencel is adopted as blended material; the fabric is advantaged by beautiful appearance and comfort due to the special heavy twist design and the small figured texture weave design; and the fabric is an ideal fabric for spring and summer female fashionable dresses due to dry and comfortable touch, good flexibility, light and thin texture, good air permeability, and brisk printing that makes people feel refreshed.
Description
(1) technical field
The utility model relates to a kind of fabric of field of textiles, particularly relates to a kind of structure of Tencel blending heavy twist jacquard fabric.
(2) background technology
Got into since 21st century, " environment " become and concerned the vital problem of survival and development of mankind, and people have had tangible progress to the attention of environmental protection than the last century.Little of the drop life, all classify environmental protection as primary prerequisite to industrial development greatly.Under the influence that this global atmosphere is waited, green textiles arises at the historic moment.But the unicity of pure cotton fabric can not satisfy the demand of people to the dress ornament house ornamentation already, thus development of new environmental protection textile material become the decision textile enterprise whether have emulative key factor of epoch.Modern green textile material is mainly derived from nature and generates through processing, and process also needs under pollution-free situation capable of circulation, to carry out.Tencel fiber promptly is one of the widest green fiber of the highest involvement aspect of present utilization rate.
It silk is a kind of solvent-borne type cellulose fibre, and its raw material comes from timber, constantly regeneration naturally.Timber is processed wood pulp, adopt the NMMO spinning technique, wood pulp directly at amine-oxides solvent direct fabrics, is accomplished under physical action fully.The amine-oxides solvent recycle is used, and the rate of recovery reaches more than 99%, has characteristics such as nontoxic, pollution-free.It silk kind is used the back bio-degradable, can not pollute environment, is called as " two Pius XI circle green fibers ".Thereby day silk product will inevitably become the emphasis of product development from now on.
(3) summary of the invention
The utility model provides a kind of Tencel blending heavy twist jacquard fabric for these reasons.
The technical scheme of the utility model is to realize like this.
The Tencel blending heavy twist jacquard fabric of this programme, the fabric structure of this lining is a 1/1+3/1+3/3 cage work; Fabric through close be 435/10cm, filling density is 273.5/10cm, fabric width 165cm.Fabric warp thread, weft yarn all adopt the 70/30LY/CJ11.8tex blended yarn, yarn twist 1600 sth. made by twisting/rice.
The usefulness of the utility model is: this product adopts novel environment friendly material Tencel to carry out blending; Special tight twist yarn design and the design of small jacquard institutional framework make lining reach beautiful and comfortable effect, and the lining feel is dry and comfortable, good springiness; Quality is frivolous; Good permeability, pure and fresh stamp is given the salubrious meaning of people, is the desirable lining of spring and summer woman fashionable dress.
(4) description of drawings
Accompanying drawing is the organization chart of this programme Tencel blending heavy twist jacquard fabric.
(5) specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with embodiment the present invention is described further.
One, product design
1, yarn is selected and design
Aspect the selection of yarn; In order to make textiles both have the ventilative soft characteristic of traditional cotton; Make lining can obtain unique peach face style again through post processing; We have adopted the Tencel blended yarn, and wherein tencel fiber is the G100 with fibrillation, and blending rate is a day silk: cotton=70: 30.For making printing and dyeing arrangements back lining feel pleasant, the indistinct line effect that crimps is arranged, adopt the tight twist yarn of the twist 1600 sth.s made by twisting/rice at design upper warp and woof yarn, move back the back of scouringing and bleaching because the untwisting contraction generation shrinkage effect of tight twist yarn in the arrangement of printing and dyeing like this.And middle twist tight twist yarn (be approximately normal twist per unit 1.5 times) can reach the design effect of expection, can keep soft lining feel again.
2, Fabric Design
On tissue is selected, should give prominence to the novelty attractive in appearance of texture pattern, take into account the wearing comfort ability again.Therefore select for use plain weave ground for main body, intersperse little mock leno weave, get characteristics such as its porous breathable, adopt lower longitude and latitude secret emissary lining more frivolous, to sum up the reason lining more is applicable to summer clothes.
Finally our product specification of design is designed to: fabric warp thread, weft yarn all adopt the 70/30LY/CJ11.8tex blended yarn, yarn twist 1600 sth. made by twisting/rice; Fabric through close be 435/10cm, filling density is 273.5/10cm, fabric width 165cm FIGURED CLOTH; Fabric tissue is the 1/1+3/1+3/3 open-work.
Two, technology main points
1, technical flow design
1.1 weaving process flow process: yarn steaming (typing), warping, sizing, denting, weave, check, grade, repair knit, finished product.
1.2 dyeing and finishing technology flow process: singe, huge refining, mercerising, stamp, overflow are washed, the oven dry of loose formula, softness.
2, master operation technology main points
2.1 yarn typing
Lean on hydrogen bond to connect in the cotton fiber between the big molecule and keep its form, in the spinning twisting process, fiber form is distorted in the yarn, the obvolvent between the fiber with tangle this twisted state that can keep fiber to a certain extent.Along with the further increase of the twist, this twisted state more and more difficulty is kept, so produce under the effect of internal stress at torsion of fibers, yarn has the trend of untwisting.Lax, untwisting under the state that yarn grips at two ends will produce twist contraction kink phenomenon.
For preventing this twist contraction kink phenomenon of yarn, need carry out hot wet setting to yarn.Fiber in the wet processing of heat because the lubricity of water; Be prone to make fiber combining slow, and heat energy can make active, the fracture of hydrogen bond, has broken original poised state; On the reposition through super-dry, the cooling after the molecular structure shape be fixed; So the twisted state of fiber is held in the yarn, along with internal stress weakens or disappears, twist contraction that untwisting produces and the corresponding disappearance of kink phenomenon.
2.2 yarn steaming adopts GA571A type vacuum yarn steaming pot that yarn is carried out the test of yarn steaming optimal process, to confirm optimised process.Weigh the quality of yarn steaming effect and use back this index of length of lay degree, " returning length of lay degree " refers to the yarn of 1 meter length, draw close to the centre from two ends, and when yarn is beaten first sth. made by twisting, the distance between the yarn of two ends.Distance between its two ends is short more, and yarn is not easy more to beat and twists with the fingers, and the typing effect is good more comparatively speaking.The unit that returns length of lay degree is cm.
Yarn steaming technology: vacuumize, preheating, humidification, insulation, constant temperature, vacuum cool-down, end.
2.3 warping technology
Warp thread is a Tencel blending tight twist yarn, and the normal yarn of yarn twist is slightly high, in the warping process, is prone to beat sth. made by twisting.Tencel fiber itself has powerful high, driedly stretches characteristics such as big, and the too high meeting of tension force causes the unexpected elongation of yarn excessive, and the processing of back operation is caused difficulty.The warping technology of tension force, middle elongation, the low speed of a motor vehicle during we adopt based on above problem.Suitably reduce the speed of a motor vehicle, avoid beating sth. made by twisting because of the Yarn-recovery that the parking of high speed cracked ends causes.Make under the uniform prerequisite of sheet yarn tension, suitably reduce the tension force of driving, reduce destruction the yarn typing.Use adjustable warping creel, angle remains on 45 °, and the full wafer warp tension is consistent.Warping speed of a motor vehicle 280m/min.Occur doing broken string serious phenomenon in district's when preventing sizing because of yarn twist is high, warp beam need stop to deposit typing a period of time and re-use.
2.4 slashing technique
2.4.1 the sizing operation is the key of heavy twist production, there are following technological difficulties in this operation:
(1), owing to causing, tight twist yarn chance moisture after getting into the slurry pot gathers the turn phenomenon.After getting into drying room, the styling of high temperature makes the displacement between yarn reverse increase, causes the dividing sinker top disconnected when going out the drying room dividing sinker, influences sizing quality.
(2), warp thread adopts the Tencel blended yarn, tencel fiber itself has shortcomings such as filoplume is many, fibre cohesion difference.Improve yarn lining rate and can improve the long problem of Yarn filoplume, increase the slurry infiltration rate and can make between fiber tightr.Therefore it is most important to slurry axoplasm amount to coordinate relations such as sizing pressure, concentration of slurry.
(3), because the yarn twist of tight twist yarn is big, the yam surface structure is consolidation relatively, and is poorer than normal twist yarn to the absorption and the penetrating power of sizing, especially props up tight twist yarn for height, guarantee that each item index difficulty such as enhancing, infiltration, lining of sizing are bigger.
2.4.2 the selection of slurry formula
The big yarn texture of the tight twist yarn twist closely is difficult for starching, and Tencel blended yarn filoplume is difficult to weave more, so slurries should more be paid attention to the permeability and the lining property of slurries when increasing yarn strength.Complete for guaranteeing the yarn serous coat, the yarn typing is good, and slashing strength and ABRASION RESISTANCE improve.We have selected for use with low sticking starch is main slurry, suitably adds the propylene slurry to heavy twist kind sizing.We find that this kind formula of size sizing serous coat is soft through test weaving, and it is less to be easy to dividing sinker secondary filoplume, and the leasing broken end obviously reduces.Low mucilage liquid is also comparatively good to the infiltration of tight twist yarn, and is obvious to the humidification of yarn.
Slurry formula is: low viscosity phosphate ester starch: 100kg, propylene class slurry (CLH-98): 8kg, the viscosity 10 of unpacking ", slurry pot viscosity 9 ".
2.4.3 sizing knitting technology
Adopt seven unit transmission GA308 type Sizing machiness to carry out starching.Critical process is following:
(1), sizing adopts the not stratified mud jacking technology of single stock tank double-clip-double-nip, suitably increases the sizing squeezing pressure, makes slurries be easy to infiltration.Suitably improve wet district cylinder temperature, make yarn flash baking, be beneficial to the tight twist yarn typing, do and distinguish the agile minimizing broken end of yarn.
(2), suitably tension force is respectively distinguished in increasing, makes yarn in sizing process, keep certain tension force, the minimizing yarn is beaten the probability that sth. made by twisting is entangled with mutually.Guarantee the low speed of a motor vehicle, in time handle vehicle condition, prevent the influence of stopping in emergency Yarn-recovery being caused.
(3), in operation, should note improving marking strand thick stick speed, the time that minimizing is clocked over.In time touring timely solution of finding to break end.
Through the rationalization of formulating and operating with sizing liquor preparation slashing technique, finally we have obtained comparatively satisfied sizing effect.Set the destarch rate: 15.5% ± 1, actual destarch rate: 15.2%; Set regain: 11 ± 1%, actual moisture regain: 9.6%; Enhancing rate 16.2%, percentage elongation 8.8%.Test data meets the technique initialization requirement basically.
2.5 weaving process
This product is a tencel blending heavy twist dobby, uses the 710-190 of Toyota type 4 spray dobby machines to weave.Be prone to cause opening unclear because Yarn filoplume is long, cause the wefting insertion difficulty.More crisp hard after the tencel fiber starching, warp thread is prone to brittle failure.Weft yarn also is a tight twist yarn, and spinner's operation is had relatively high expectations.The major measure that we take to above problem has: rationally formulate the opening amount, guaranteeing suitably to reduce opening on the clear basis that is beneficial to wefting insertion of opening, in order to avoid through disconnected too high.
Concrete technology is following: heald frame height (mm): 138-140, and the opening traverse: 29 °, opening time: 290 °, back beam height: 0, the warp stop frame height :-1, go into the latitude time: 90 °, arrive the latitude time: 230 °.Weaving efficiency reaches 84% on the product machine, and product quality reaches company's inner quality standard.
2.6 dyeing and printing process
In the dyeing and finishing processing, because this kind is a longitude and latitude heavy twist cloth, it is smooth to reach finished product, and feel such as silkiness are smooth, adopts silk to put down and handles, and guarantees that finished product has enough elastic elongations.Novelty for outstanding lining has designed pure and fresh rural area decalcomania and has printed.
Three, the novelty of project
1, tencel fiber is the environmental protection fiber, and has both possessed day the distinctive post processing effect of silk after the cotton blending, does not lose the good characteristic of cotton soft permeability again, meets the environmental protection of modern textile article, requirement comfortable, attractive in appearance fully.
2, compare with common jacquard weave kind, the texture of heavy twist jacquard weave is softer, and is soft after the post processing, comfortable and easy to wear.
Four, product evaluation
This product adopts novel environment friendly material Tencel to carry out blending; Special tight twist yarn design and the design of small jacquard institutional framework make lining reach beautiful and comfortable effect, and the lining feel is dry and comfortable, good springiness; Quality is frivolous; Good permeability, pure and fresh stamp is given the salubrious meaning of people, is the desirable lining of spring and summer woman fashionable dress.
Claims (1)
1. Tencel blending heavy twist jacquard fabric, it is characterized in that: the fabric structure of this lining is a 1/1+3/1+3/3 cage work; Fabric through close be 435/10cm, filling density is 273.5/10cm, fabric width 165cm.
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| CN107541839A (en) * | 2016-06-28 | 2018-01-05 | 际华三五四二纺织有限公司 | A kind of ultra-thin tencel, flax jacquard fabric weaving process |
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| WO2018085966A1 (en) * | 2016-11-11 | 2018-05-17 | 姚萍 | Jacquard cloth having excellent performance |
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