CN102940341A - Integrally molding process for uppers - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to an integrally molding process for uppers. The process comprises the following steps: selecting raw materials, warping, loading the warped raw materials to a machine, threading yarns, making a pattern, inputting the pattern into an electric control system, making a flower disc, regulating the machine, weaving, loosening and pre-shrinking, pre-shaping, dyeing through overflow, drying and shaping, wherein the selecting of the raw materials is specifically selecting fibers or yarns for molding the uppers; the making of the pattern is specifically making the pattern according to the sizes of shoes; and the pre-shaping is shaping according to the sizes of the shoes. The integrally molding process provided by the invention is different from the prior art in the following aspects: a textile technology is applied to the upper molding process at the first time; the fibers or the yarns are used as upper materials; the uppers are woven and molded at one time through additional pattern making and pre-shaping steps; therefore, ecological and environmental protection is realized, the upper manufacturing process is simplified, the production efficiency is increased and the production cost is reduced; the integrally molding process is used for making high-grade elastic three-layer jacquard shoe fabrics; the limitation of the three-layer fabric on the elastic aspect is improved; and the integrally molding process has the advantages of good hand feel, good softness, good elasticity, no extruding effect on toes and comfort for wearing.

Description

The vamp integral forming process

Technical field

The present invention relates to footwear and make the field, is a kind of vamp integral forming process specifically.

Background technology

Existing Instep structure for shoes is divided into protheca, rear cover, toe-cap, waist, eyelet and flap usually.These parts are made separately usually, are stitched together afterwards, form complete vamp.The manufacture craft of vamp generally comprises and gets the raw materials ready, stamping-out, peel, toe-cap typing, vamp flanging, vamp or applying inside, vamp or inside sewing machine, paste in jewelry or adorno thing, the face fit, car closes, repaiies and waits operation inside in the face, production process is various, production efficiency is low, and production cost is high., also must make up by printing or high frequency compacting or with pattern at vamp different piece attached pattern such as need, can not with the vamp one-shot forming, reduced the qualification rate of product.In addition, the general elasticity of existing footwear face material is relatively poor, and feel is stiff, can produce squeezing action to toe, wears uncomfortable.

Summary of the invention

In order to overcome above-mentioned the deficiencies in the prior art, technical problem to be solved by this invention provides a kind of vamp integral forming process.

In order to solve the problems of the technologies described above, the technical solution used in the present invention is:

A kind of vamp integral forming process may further comprise the steps:

Select raw material, warping, upper machine, entry, chart, input electric-control system, work out floral disc, accent machine, weave, lax preshrunk, predetermined, overflow dyeing, oven dry, Cheng Ding;

Wherein, the described raw material that selects refers to fiber or the yarn of selecting instep formation to use, and described drawing refers to work out pattern according to footwear type size, described predetermined referring to according to the typing of footwear type size.

The present invention is different from prior art, has the following advantages:

(1) textile technology is applied in the instep formation technique first, adopt fiber or yarn as the vamp material, and on the basis of existing textile technology by the step such as set up drawing, be scheduled to, make vamp be able to disposable weaving, both to ecological, environmental protective, simplified again the vamp production procedure, improved production efficiency, reduced production cost, simultaneously owing to there is not steps such as sewing up splicing, prepared product percent of pass improves greatly, and outward appearance is neat and artistic;

(2) be used for making three layers of footwear face of high-grade jacquard weave elasticity material, improved the limitation that three shell fabrics use aspect elasticity, have soft good springiness, to toe without squeezing action, characteristics comfortable and easy to wear.

The specific embodiment

By describing technology contents of the present invention, structural feature in detail, realized purpose and effect, give explanation below in conjunction with embodiment is detailed.

The vamp integral forming process of present embodiment may further comprise the steps:

Step 1, select raw material:

According to the vamp designing requirement, such as performance requirements such as gas permeability, elasticity, pliabilitys, select suitable fiber or yarn, such as spandex, terylene, nylon etc.

It is as follows to make three layers of footwear face of high-grade jacquard weave elasticity material:

238 of L1:200D spandexs, 2 wear 2 skies, and warp run-in is 1200, and content is 6.2%;

The L2:280D polyamide fibre is 238 on net heavily, and 2 wear 2 skies, and warp run-in is 1800, and content is 12%;

476 of L3:30D nylon monofilaments are completely worn, and warp run-in is 7600, and content is 25.2%;

238 of L4:140 polyamide core-spun yarns, 1 wears 1 sky, warp run-in 1600, content 18.6% is the jacquard weave comb;

238 of L5:140 polyamide core-spun yarns, 1 wears 1 sky, warp run-in 1600, content 18.6% is the jacquard weave comb;

The L6:100D polyamide fibre is 476 on net heavily, completely wears warp run-in 1750, content 19.4%.

Step 2, warping:

With the cheese (fiber that step 1 is selected or yarn) of some, the length by designing requirement is configured to certain fabric width, and with suitable, uniform tension force, close wind is on warp beam or beam of a loom, for the warp systems that consists of fabric is prepared.

The control of tension in Warping is wanted evenly, and this has the requirement of two aspects: the one, and it is even that the tension force of each yarns will remain; The 2nd, it is even that the tension force between each yarns will remain.Current through compiling the needs of large production for adapting to, the specification of filament yarn cake is increasing, causes package tension force and unwinding tension really to be consistent from the beginning to the end.To allow exactly in every suit warp beam the even tension between each coiled hair consistent so really want aborning ready-made as far as possible.The yarn cake is take the weight of 4 ~ 6kg as good.

Take DSE-H21/30NC spandex warping flow process as example, illustrate that the main points of processes control of warping process is as follows:

A, for the many characteristics of a warper skill number, adopt be uniformly dispersed, the method for symmetrical top cylinder can be improved between each yarn cake individuality in fineness to greatest extent and inhale difference aspect the look, this point is of equal importance to long filament and spandex;

On b, the modern advanced warping type master head is set, the accuracy of its parameter directly affects the processing performance of all the other auxiliary coiled hairs;

The warping of c, spandex should be listed the emphasis of warping technology in, and for the computer spandex warping machine that has PIV to arrange, the accuracy of its technical parameter and the advance of operation have stoped the possibility of defective in quality coiled hair being carried out again assembly from the negative.

The correlation computations of this step:

1, actual fineness measures

The true fineness of precursor is directly connected to the calculating of weaving process, also has influence on accordingly the content ratio of each raw material in the grey cloth, must make every effort to accurate.And warping environment, equipment performance and technological operation all can cause the variation of fineness.As be designated the spandex of 44dtex, may only have 40dtex or 42dtex during actual warping, and the long filament of sign 55dtex may there be 56dtex.Correct method is: when creel each time is on probation, extract simultaneously 10 cylinders, with each actual net weight grams that spends and the actual meter long fineness of calculating separately that exhausts, 10 fineness values that obtain are removed after the minimum and maximum value again averaged.

2, the calculating of warping yarn-using amount

The computing formula of required coiled hair total length and needed raw material gross weight is:

$N=\frac{P\×M\×N}{4800I}$

$G=\frac{N\×n\×D\×A}{9000\×1000}$

In the formula, N is the total length of required coiled hair, and unit is m; P is vertical close for weaving, and unit is line/cm; M is the thread-feeding amount of corresponding sley bar, and unit is mm/rack; L is for weaving required grey cloth overall length, and unit is m; I is the draw ratio of corresponding raw material, long filament can be considered 1; G is the gross weight of needed raw material, and unit is kg; N is the number of required coiled hair; D is actual fineness, and unit is D; A is the warping radical.

Step 3, upper machine;

Step 4, entry;

Step 5, drawing: work out pattern according to footwear type size;

Step 6, input electric-control system:

In the electric-control system with condition entry Weaving-machines such as the pattern formulated and control parameters, comprise creel and coiled hair zero clearing, input speed, radical and draw ratio are determined halt condition etc.;

Step 7, formulation floral disc;

Step 8, accent machine: transfer machine with spandex fibre, adjust suitable technique, tension force density rotating speed;

Step 9, weave:

The qualifying point of this step comprise following some:

1, broken yarn fault

Reduce in accordance with the following methods broken yarn: a, prevent the generation of wool yarn, broken yarn from warping process first, carry out that warping oils, the testing of Electrostatic Treatment and wool yarn, broken yarn self-stop.Raw material to different cultivars will use corresponding tension in Warping, controls the warping machine speed well, ensure quality; B, attention pincers pin, the work of school pin are regularly carried out needle selection and school pin work to working needle spare.Producing in the saturated situation, should carry out the work of a complete machine needle selection to groove pin in per about 9 months, to clamp pin and school pin work to nook closing member, sinker, sley point.About 4 years, all pin spares are answered update all; C, pay attention to on-the-spot to save from damage and changing pin work, reduce pin road and broken yarn.Strengthen simultaneously the technical training to the operative employee, in situation about once just can handle well, do not allow to shut down in frequent succession; D, technological parameter are the important channels of reducing broken yarn with cooperating of environment.Such as the humiture in workshop, the spandex draw ratio, the factors such as the collocation of spandex content and thickness of yarn are all influential to what of broken yarn.

2, clouding fault

Use and expand the limit device, and adopt suitable expansion limit speed ratio to solve the clouding fault.

3, greasy dirt and vitta

With two yarns on the limit of coiled hair, arch high over goes to knit to selvedge, with the prevention vitta.

The correlation computations of this step:

1, the control of spandex content

The two comb fabrics that interweave take spandex and long filament when known long filament warp run-in, calculate needed spandex warp run-in according to following formula as example:

$L_1=\frac{i_1\×L_2\×D_2\×E}{i_2\×D_1}$

In the formula, L ₁Be the spandex warp run-in, unit is mm/rack; L ₂Be the long filament thread-feeding amount, unit is mm/rack; i ₁Be the spandex content ratio; i ₂Be the long filament content ratio; D ₁Actual fineness for spandex; D ₂Actual fineness for long filament; E is the spandex draw ratio.

Wherein, i ₁+ i ₂=100%, the clean stretching percentage of spandex draw ratio=1+ spandex; The actual fineness D of long filament and spandex ₁, D ₂Should in warping process, record.

2, the vertical close and finished product grammes per square metre calculating of finished product

In order to ensure PRODUCTS FIELD to percentage elongation and response rate, the grammes per square metre deviation should be advisable with ± 5%.

$P_B=\frac{9000\×4800\×G_1\×E}{10\×P_A\×(L_1\×D_1+L_2\×D_2\×E)}$

Wherein, P _BVertical close for finished product, unit is line/cm; P _ABe finished product horizontal stroke close (can be calculated by the fabric width of weaving radical and customer requirement and get) that unit is file/cm; G ₁Be the grammes per square metre that finished product requires, unit is g/m ²

In rear arrangement, as long as the density after obtaining product and shrinking can be tried to achieve the maximum grammes per square metre of this kind conversely.

Make three layers of footwear face of high-grade jacquard weave elasticity material specifically to weave parameter as follows:

GB1：1-02-3/1-02-3/1-02-3/4-53-2/4-53-2/4-53-2//

GB1:2 wears 2 skies

GB2：4-53-2/4-53-2/4-53-2/1-02-3/1-02-3/1-02-3//

GB2:2 wears 2 skies

GB3：1-02-13-21-2//

GB3: completely wear

GB4：1-01-2//

GB4:1 wears 1 sky

GB5：1-01-2//

GB5:1 wears 1 sky

GB6：1-00-1//

GB6: completely wear

Step 10, lax preshrunk;

Step 11, predetermined: according to the typing of footwear type size;

Step 12, overflow dyeing;

Step 13, oven dry;

Step 11, Cheng Ding: according to the typing of footwear type size.

The above only is embodiments of the invention; be not so limit claim of the present invention; every equivalent structure or equivalent flow process conversion that utilizes description of the present invention to do; or directly or indirectly be used in other relevant technical fields, all in like manner be included in the scope of patent protection of the present invention.

Claims (1)

1. the vamp integral forming process is characterized in that, may further comprise the steps:

Select raw material, warping, upper machine, entry, chart, input electric-control system, work out floral disc, accent machine, weave, lax preshrunk, predetermined, overflow dyeing, oven dry, Cheng Ding;

Wherein, the described raw material that selects refers to fiber or the yarn of selecting instep formation to use, and described drawing refers to work out pattern according to footwear type size, described predetermined referring to according to the typing of footwear type size.