CN102753140A - 护肤组合物 - Google Patents
护肤组合物 Download PDFInfo
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- CN102753140A CN102753140A CN2011800060967A CN201180006096A CN102753140A CN 102753140 A CN102753140 A CN 102753140A CN 2011800060967 A CN2011800060967 A CN 2011800060967A CN 201180006096 A CN201180006096 A CN 201180006096A CN 102753140 A CN102753140 A CN 102753140A
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Abstract
本发明提供了无水的防晒组合物，所述组合物包含挥发性溶剂、溶于所述挥发性溶剂中的有机紫外线滤光剂、溶于所述挥发性溶剂中的水不溶性的低挥发性C2-C8液态有机硅、溶于所述挥发性溶剂中的多元羧酸的支链脂肪酸酯、以及成膜聚合物，其中所述多元羧酸的支链脂肪酸酯和所述水不溶性的低挥发性C2-C8液态有机硅以约3:1至4.25:1的比率存在。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及局部用防晒剂组合物，所述防晒剂组合物能成功涂敷于润湿皮肤。
背景技术
常规的防晒产品一般采取溶解、乳化或分散于媒介物中的紫外滤光化合物和/或颗粒状紫外屏蔽化合物（统称为“防晒活性物质”）的形式，所述媒介物局部涂敷于皮肤上。防晒活性物质通常通过包含于媒介物中的辅助聚合物和其他成分，在皮肤上形成薄的、通常防水的保护层。
申请人已认识到，遗憾的是，虽然典型的防晒产品在涂敷于干燥皮肤时能成功地提供持久的保护屏障，但在涂敷于汗湿或其上有残余水分的皮肤时，通常结果并非如此。事实上，将常规的防晒产品涂敷于润湿的皮肤时，其趋势是稀释防晒活性物质，涂抹形成不完整的薄膜，该薄膜通常从皮肤剥落或剥离和/或呈现出糊状的白色外观。最终结果是令人不快的，并且使得皮肤不能很好地得到保护，免于太阳光线的伤害。
其他人已设想了该问题的解决方案，就是使用油包水型乳化剂进行“自乳化”，可能是在皮肤上存在残余水分的情况下“自乳化”。然而，申请人已认识到，现有技术的“润湿皮肤”防晒产品仍存在严重的美学和性能问题。因此，申请人现已确定出全新组合物，该组合物可持久并舒适地涂敷于皮肤上，并且所得薄膜能够保护皮肤不受破坏性紫外线辐射的伤害。
发明内容
本发明涉及无水的防晒剂组合物，其包含挥发性溶剂、溶于该挥发性溶剂中的有机紫外线滤光剂、溶于该挥发性溶剂中的水不溶性的低挥发性C2-C8液态有机硅、溶于该挥发性溶剂中的多元羧酸的支链脂肪酸酯、以及成膜聚合物。多元羧酸的支链脂肪酸酯和水不溶性的低挥发性C2-C8液态有机硅以约3:1至4.25:1的比率存在。
具体实施方式
本发明满足了上述需求，并克服了现有技术的缺点。具体地讲，已发现，有机紫外线(UV)滤光剂可与挥发性溶剂、水不溶性的低挥发性C2-C8液态有机硅、多元羧酸的支链脂肪酸酯和成膜聚合物组合，以形成无水组合物，该组合物在涂敷于润湿皮肤上时出人意外地形成耐久的美观保护膜。
如本文所用，“美容上可接受的”是指适用于接触组织（如皮肤）而无不当的毒性、不相容性、不稳定性、刺激、变应性反应等等。
如本文所用，“基本上不含”是指组合物包含小于约1重量%，例如小于约0.1重量%，如小于约0.01重量%的某种成分。
本发明的组合物是无水的。所谓“无水的”是指组合物基本上不含水分。
如本文所用，“变白”是指防晒剂组合物与皮肤上的水分接触所引起的非透明或乳状外观。
浓度范围和“浓缩物”
除非另外具体描述，否则包括在本文中的所有百分比均为重量百分比，其基于排除所存在的任何推进剂的组合物的总重量。排除任何推进剂的组合物在本说明书中称为“浓缩物”。
有机紫外线滤光剂
本发明的组合物包含有机紫外线滤光剂。本发明中可用的有机紫外线滤光剂是美容上可接受的化合物，该化合物吸收紫外范围内的辐射，并且通常可溶于一种或多种有机烃类溶剂。有机紫外线滤光剂吸收紫外光谱的某一部分(290nm-400nm)内的辐射，并且对上面定义的紫外光谱内的至少一个波长的消光系数可为至少约1000mol-1cm-1，例如大于10,000或100,000或1,000,000mol-1cm-1。
有机紫外线滤光剂的例子包括但不限于3-亚苄基樟脑，具体地讲3-亚苄基降樟脑及其衍生物，如3-(4-甲基亚苄基)樟脑；4-氨基苯甲酸衍生物，具体地讲4-(二甲基氨基)苯甲酸-2-乙基己酯、4-(二甲基氨基)苯甲酸-2-辛酯和4-(二甲基氨基)苯甲酸戊酯；肉桂酸酯，具体地讲4-甲氧基肉桂酸-2-乙基己酯、4-甲氧基肉桂酸丙酯、4-甲氧基肉桂酸异戊酯、2-氰基-3,3-苯基肉桂酸-2-乙基己酯（奥克立林(octocrylene)）；水杨酸酯，即水杨酸-2-乙基己酯、水杨酸-4-异丙基苄酯、水杨酸高薄荷酯；二苯甲酮衍生物，具体地讲2-羟基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮、2-羟基-4-甲氧基-4'-甲基二苯甲酮、2,2'-二羟基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮；亚苄基丙二酸酯，具体地讲4-甲氧基亚苄基丙二酸二-2-乙基己酯；三嗪衍生物，例如2,4,6-三苯胺基-(对-羰-2'-乙基-1'-己氧基)-1,3,5-三嗪和辛基三嗪酮；或苯甲酸、4,4'-[[6-[[[(1,1-二甲基乙基)氨基]羰基]苯基]氨基]-1,3,5-三嗪-2,4-二基]二亚氨基]双-，双(2-乙基己基)酯(UVASORB HEB)；丙烷-1,3-二酮，例如1-(4-叔丁基苯基)-3-(4’-甲氧基苯基)丙烷-1,3-二酮；酮基三环(5.2.1.0)癸烷衍生物；苯甲酰甲烷的衍生物，例如1-(4’-叔丁基苯基)-3-(4’-甲氧基苯基)丙烷-1,3-二酮、4-叔丁基-4’-甲氧基二苯甲酰基甲烷(PARSOL 1789)、1-苯基-3-(4’-异丙基苯基)-丙烷-1,3-二酮、苯甲酸2-(4-二乙基氨基-2-羟基苯甲酰基)-苯甲酸己酯(UVINUL A+)或1H-苯并咪唑-4,6-二磺酸、2,2'-(1,4-亚苯基)双二钠盐(NEO HELOPAN AP)；和苯并三唑，具体地讲称为2,2'-亚甲基-双-(6-(2H-苯并三唑-2-基)-4-(1,1,3,3-四甲基丁基)-酚)[INCI：双辛基三唑]的苯并三唑衍生物，其可按商品名TINOSORB M从汽巴精化(CIBA Chemicals)商购获得。另一种可用的苯并三唑衍生物为2-(2H-苯并三唑-2-基)-4-甲基-6-[2-甲基-3-[1，3,3,3-四甲基-1-[(三甲基甲硅烷基)氧基]二硅氧烷基]丙基]-酚(CAS-No.:155633-54-8)，其也通过INCI名称甲酚曲唑三硅氧烷标识并且可按商品名MEXORYL XL得自Chimex。另外合适的是非对称取代的三嗪衍生物，和2,4-双-{[4-(2-乙基-己氧基)-2-羟基]-苯基}-6-(4-甲氧基苯基)-1,3,5-三嗪(INCI：非均三嗪(anisotriazine))，其可按商品名TINOSORB S从汽巴公司(CIBA)商购获得。
在一个实施例中，有机紫外线滤光剂选自奥克立林、苯并三唑、非均三嗪、水杨酸酯、肉桂酸酯和苯甲酰基甲烷衍生物。
有机紫外线滤光剂在浓缩物中的存在浓度可为约1重量%至约40重量%，如约5重量%至约35重量%，如约10重量%至约30重量%，如约15重量%至约25重量%。
本领域技术人员将容易认识到，术语“有机紫外线滤光剂”并不包括紫外线屏蔽粒子（“UV屏蔽粒子”），这些粒子通常至少在一定程度上用于散射紫外线辐射。例子包括无机氧化物，包括二氧化钛、氧化锌、氧化铁、氧化硅(silicone oxides)或其他金属（如过渡金属，如晶态过渡金属）氧化物。UV屏蔽粒子通常为尺寸（如直径）为约0.1微米至约10微米的固体粒子。在本发明的某些实施例中，UV屏蔽粒子可以任选地包含在组合物中。在某些其他实施例中，它们被排除在外。对于那些包含UV屏蔽粒子的实施例，UV屏蔽粒子在浓缩物中的存在浓度可为约0.1%至约10%，如约0.5%至约5%，诸约0.5%至约2%。
挥发性溶剂
本发明的组合物包含挥发性溶剂。所谓“挥发性”是指满足下列一项或多项要求的化合物：闪点低于150℃（如小于约130℃，如小于约50℃，如小于约25℃）和/或沸点小于约150℃（如小于约100℃，如小于约90℃）的那些化合物。所谓“溶剂”是指当挥发性溶剂中紫外线滤光剂的浓度设定为挥发性溶剂的1%时，能够（不存在任何其他成分，如表面活性剂、共溶剂等）溶解（如形成澄清溶液，如使700nm波长光源的光强度的至少25%（如至少约50%）透过1cm光程，如通过常规的可见光分光光度法所测得）组合物中存在的紫外线滤光剂。在某些实施例中，可在挥发性溶剂中紫外线滤光剂的浓度设定为10%时获得溶液。
挥发性溶剂通常是美容上可接受的并且在室温下是液体。此外，挥发性溶剂在某些实施例中可与水混溶。所谓“可与水混溶”是指挥发性溶剂可按所有比例完全溶于水。可与水混溶的挥发性溶剂的合适例子包括乙醇、丙醇和异丙醇。在某些实施例中，如果不可与水混溶，则挥发性溶剂可至少在一定程度上溶于异丙醇。
挥发性溶剂在浓缩物中的存在量可为约10%至约60%，或约20%至约55%，或约30%至约50%。
水不溶性的低挥发性C
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液态有机硅
本发明的组合物包含水不溶性的低挥发性C2-C8液态有机硅。所谓“低挥发性”是指化合物的闪点高于约105℃，如高于约150℃，如高于约200℃。所谓“液态有机硅”是指具有至少一个硅氧烷（Si-O-Si键）并且在室温下为液态（熔点低于25℃）的化合物。液态有机硅不溶于水，但通常可溶于挥发性溶剂（如可溶于异丙醇）。液态有机硅包含C2-C8官能团。在某些实施例中，液态有机硅可以具有含侧烷基基团的甲硅烷氧基重复单元，如那些包含一个或多个
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单元的液态有机硅，其中n为2至8，如2至4。一个特别合适的例子为其中n=2的化合物，其可按SILWAX D02（INCI：乙基聚甲基硅氧烷）得自乔治亚州达克拉市斯泰公司(Siltech,Dacula,Georgia)。在另一个实施例中，液态有机硅为辛基聚甲基硅氧烷。在又另一个实施例中，液态有机硅为苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷。
水不溶性的低挥发性C2-C8液态有机硅通常起到为皮肤表面上产生的薄膜提供塑性的作用，以及起到防止变白（例如通过增加所产生的薄膜的折射率）的作用，要不是有这种液态有机硅，当组合物接触皮肤上存在的水时可能会出现变白现象。
水不溶性的低挥发性C2-C8液态有机硅在浓缩物中的存在量可为约0.5%至约10%，或约1%至约6%，或约2%至约4%。
多元羧酸的支链脂肪酸酯
本发明的组合物包含多元羧酸的支链脂肪酸酯(“BFEPCA”)。多元羧酸的支链脂肪酸酯在室温下为液态（熔点低于25℃），不溶于水，可溶于挥发性溶剂。在一个值得注意的实施例中，BFEPCA是多元酸与C10-C30脂肪酸（如C12-C22脂肪酸）的反应产物。脂肪酸可以是支链的。多元酸可选自柠檬酸、抗坏血酸、磷酸和硫酸。在一个实施例中，多元酸为柠檬酸或抗坏血酸。柠檬酸尤其值得注意。
例如，BFEPCA可每个分子具有五个或更多个酯基。BFEPCA的一个合适例子为辛基十二烷醇柠檬酸酯聚酯，其可按COSMOSURF CE-100从乔治亚州达克拉市斯泰公司(Surfa TechCorporation/Siltech Corporation,Dacula,Georgia)商购获得。
PFECPA有助于组合物能够在薄膜的形成过程中排除水分，还能在薄膜形成后起到防止薄膜剥落和抵抗水降解的作用。
PFECPA在浓缩物中的存在量可为约2%至约40%，或约4%至约25%，或约8%至约18%。发明人已发现，PFEPCA和水不溶性的低挥发性C2-C8液态有机硅应以PFEPCA比水不溶性的低挥发性C2-C8液态有机硅为约3:1至4.25:1、如3.5:1至4:1的比率存在。如果该比率过高，则组合物在涂敷于润湿皮肤时会呈现不可取的暂时变白现象，并且薄膜不能适当地形成，不具有良好的美观性，例如，其使皮肤具有沉重感，并在与润湿皮肤接触时趋于剥离，反之如果该比率过低，则所得的薄膜会缺乏防水性。
成膜聚合物
本发明的组合物包含成膜聚合物，以加快薄膜形成和提供一定的防水性。所谓“成膜聚合物”是指这样的聚合物，在该聚合物溶解于组合物中时，将该组合物涂抹于例如光滑玻璃上，并让液体媒介物蒸发时，容许形成连续性或半连续性薄膜。如此，该聚合物应当在玻璃上以如下方式干燥，其中在该聚合物涂抹的区域上其应主要是连续的，而不是形成多个离散的岛状结构。一般来讲，根据本文所述的本发明实施例通过在皮肤上涂敷组合物而形成的薄膜，其平均厚度小于约100微米，如小于约50微米。
合适的成膜聚合物包括如多糖或蛋白质的天然聚合物，以及如聚酯、聚丙烯酸酯、聚氨酯、乙烯基聚合物、聚磺酸酯、聚脲、聚噁唑啉等的合成聚合物。成膜聚合物的具体例子包括（例如）具有疏水基团的丙烯酸均聚物或共聚物，如丙烯酸酯/辛基丙烯酰胺共聚物，包括可得自新泽西州布里奇沃特的阿克苏化学公司(Akzo Chemical,Bridgewater,New Jersey)的DERMACRYL 79；可按X-22-8247D得自日本信越公司(Shin-Etsu,Japan)的聚二甲基硅氧烷/丙烯酸酯聚二甲基硅氧烷共聚物；可按COSMEDIA DC得自宾夕法尼亚州安布勒的科宁公司(Cognis Corporation,Ambler,Pennsylvania)的氢化二聚体二亚油基/二甲基碳酸酯共聚物；乙烯基吡咯烷酮和长链α-烯烃的共聚物，如可按GANEX V220得自新泽西州韦恩的ISP精化公司(Specialty Chemicals,Wayne,New Jersey)的那些共聚物；可按GANEXWP660同样得自ISP的乙烯基吡咯烷酮/蜂花烷基(tricontanyl)共聚物；水可分散性聚酯，包括磺基聚酯，如可按EASTMAN AQ 38S从伊士曼化学公司(Eastman Chemical)商购获得的那些。在某些实施例中，成膜聚合物为水不溶性的，但在暴露于碱性时可使其溶解，从而在用肥皂洗涤时有利于将其从皮肤上去除。
成膜聚合物在浓缩物中的存在量可为约0.25%至约15%，或约0.5%至约10%，或约1%至约5%。
分散的烷基改性有机硅聚合物
本发明的组合物可包含分散的烷基改性有机硅聚合物。该分散的烷基改性有机硅聚合物通常不溶于挥发性溶剂，也不溶于水。为了在水和挥发性溶剂中均赋予不溶性，分散的烷基改性有机硅聚合物包含C8–C30直链或环状、饱和或不饱和烷基，如C12–C22烷基。
分散的烷基改性有机硅通常起到降低表面张力、改善水排除以及减少变白现象的作用。在挥发性溶剂（如异丙醇）中良好分散的合适的烷基改性有机硅聚合物的例子包括鲸蜡基聚二甲硅氧烷和双乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷的共聚物，如可从乔治亚州达克拉的斯泰公司(Tech,Dacula,Georgia)商购获得的SILWAX CR-5016。
分散的烷基改性有机硅聚合物在浓缩物中的存在量可为约0.1%至约1%，或约0.1%至约0.5%，或约0.1%至约0.25%。
气溶胶推进剂
本发明的组合物可以包含推进剂以有助于将组合物喷涂于皮肤上。发明人已发现，可以通过使组合物基本上不含水不溶性推进剂如异丁烷而减少变白现象。如果选择推进剂，则可使用具有有限（非零）水溶性的推进剂。一个合适的例子为醚，如二甲醚（其在20℃下具有71克/升的水溶解度）和甲乙醚，其中二甲醚尤其值得注意。
气溶胶推进剂在组合物中的存在量可为约10%至约60%，或约20%至约40%，或约25%至约40%。如此前所讨论，组合物的其余部分是浓缩物。
在一个另选的实施例中，组合物不含常规的气溶胶推进剂，而是可以使用“阀袋”(bag on valve)系统在无喷射推进剂的情况下推进，该系统利用与组合物的其余部分隔离的空气或氮气。
蜡
在某些实施例中，组合物包含蜡。所谓蜡是指一种或多种疏水化合物，其熔点（或熔融范围）在30℃至120℃的范围内，如在45℃至100℃的范围内。在一个实施例中，蜡组分包括熔点为约75℃至100℃的蜡化合物。
所谓“疏水化合物”是指这样的化合物，其包含满足以下三项标准中的一项或多项的疏水部分：(a)具有至少六个碳的碳链，其中这六个碳每一个都不是羰基碳或都不具有与其直接键合的亲水部分（在下文定义）；(b)具有两个或更多个烷基甲硅烷氧基基团；或(c)具有一连串的两个或更多个氧丙烯基团。疏水部分可包括直链、环状、芳族、饱和或不饱和基团。该疏水化合物并非两亲的，并且此类化合物不包含亲水部分，如为极性的阴离子、阳离子、两性离子或非离子基团，这些基团包括硫酸根、磺酸根、羧酸根、磷酸根、膦酸根、铵（包括单烷基铵、二烷基铵和三烷基铵物质）、吡啶鎓、咪唑啉鎓、脒鎓、聚(乙烯亚胺鎓)、烷基磺酸铵、烷基羧酸铵、两性乙酸盐和聚(乙烯氧基)磺酰基部分。在某些实施例中，疏水化合物不包含羟基部分。
合适的蜡包括各种烃类（直链或支链烷烃或烯烃、酮、二酮、伯醇或仲醇、醛、甾醇酯、链烷酸、萜烯、单酯）中的任何一种，所述烃类如碳链长度在C12至C38范围的那些烃类。同样合适的还有二酯或其他支链酯。在一个实施例中，该化合物为醇（甘油或非甘油）和C18或更高级脂肪酸的酯。
非限制性例子包括各种天然蜡中的任一种，包括莲花蜡（如可得自加利福尼亚州西尔马的Deveraux Specialties公司(Deveraux Specialties,Silmar,California)的莲花蜡）；蜂蜡（如可得自纽约州西巴比伦的史东毕斯公司(Strahl and Pitsch,West Babylon,New York)的白蜂蜡SP-422P）、虫蜡、抹香鲸油、羊毛脂、植物蜡（如巴西棕榈蜡）、霍霍巴油、小烛树蜡；矿物蜡，如石蜡；以及合成蜡，如鲸蜡基棕榈酸酯、月桂基棕榈酸酯、十六-十八混合醇硬脂酸酯和聚乙烯蜡（如PERFORMALENE 400，其分子量为450并且熔点为84℃，可得自德克萨斯州舒格兰的新相技术公司(New PhaseTechnologies,Sugar Land,Texas)）；以及有机硅蜡，如C30-45烷基聚甲基硅氧烷和C30-45烯烃（如道康宁AMS-C30，其熔点为70℃，可得自密歇根州米德兰市的道康宁公司(Dow Corning,Midland,Michigan)）。在某些实施例中，蜡组分包括高熔点的甘油酯，如单硬脂酸甘油酯。
蜡在组合物中的存在量可为约0.1%至约5%，或约0.1%至约2%，或约0.1%至约1%。
其他成分
各种其他美容上可接受的成分中的任一种可按不致抵消各种其他成分的效果的量包含在组合物中。例如，诸如芳香剂、染料、防腐剂、皮肤有益剂、光稳定剂、抗氧化剂的成分可按例如小于约10%、如小于约5%、如小于约2%、如小于约1%的总浓度包含在内。在某些实施例中，组合物基本上不含不溶于挥发性溶剂中的成分。
本发明的组合物通常以各种组分在具有任选推进剂的挥发性溶剂中的单相溶液的形式提供。该任选的推进剂通常作为与溶于组合物的其余部分中或可与组合物的其余部分混溶的液态推进剂平衡的蒸气存在。在某些实施例中，组合物具有至多2%的分散于其中的不溶性固体或液体。
实例
以下非限制性实例将进一步说明受权利要求书保护的发明：
实例I：发明实例的制备
制备了在表1中示出的根据本文所述的本发明实施例的以下组合物，即发明实例“实例1至4”：
表1：发明实例
179.8%的辛基十二烷醇柠檬酸酯聚酯(COSMOSURF CE-100,BFEPCA)、20%的乙基聚甲基硅氧烷（SILWAX D02，水不溶性的低挥发性C2-C8液态有机硅）和0.2%的鲸蜡基聚二甲硅氧烷与双-乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷的共聚物（SILWAX CR-5016，烷基改性的有机硅聚合物）的共混物，每一种成分均可得自斯泰公司(SilTech)。
发明实例1-4通过以下方式制备：在容器内装入异丙醇（挥发性溶剂），加入丙烯酸酯/辛基丙烯酰胺共聚物并混合至完全溶解，然后加入抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯并混合至均匀。在第二容器中，通过以下方式制备油/防晒剂相：将胡莫柳酯、羟苯甲酮、柳酸辛酯、阿伏苯宗、奥克立林、2,6萘二甲酸二乙基己酯、丁基辛醇水杨酸酯（仅就实例1而言）、莲花蜡、聚二甲基硅氧烷和丙烯酸酯/聚二甲基硅氧烷共聚物共混，然后将混合物加热至最多75-80℃，直至防晒剂粉末完全溶解并均匀。随后将该相冷却至30℃。缓慢地将油/防晒剂相加入醇相。随后加入其余的成分，包括生育酚乙酸酯、视黄醇棕榈酸酯以及辛基十二醇柠檬酸酯交联聚合物、乙基聚甲基硅氧烷和鲸蜡基聚二甲硅氧烷/双乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物的预混物；以及芳香剂。
实例II：发明实例和比较例的评估
比较例“比较例1-6”通过与发明实例“实例1”类似的方式制备（仅作为浓缩物-无推进剂），不同的是(1)在某些情况下省去鲸蜡基聚二甲硅氧烷/双乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷的共聚物；(2)在某些情况下调整辛基十二烷醇柠檬酸酯聚酯的相对比例；以及(3)分别用月桂基(C12)或鲸蜡基(C18)聚二甲基硅氧烷替换乙基聚甲基硅氧烷。
将发明实例“实例1”的浓缩物以及比较例“比较例1-3”各自单独地泵涂到人受试者的润湿手臂上。发明实例“实例1”（COSMOSURF CE-100和SILWAX D-02和SILWAX CR-5016的比率为79.8:20:0.2）在涂敷于润湿皮肤上时未呈现变白现象，其干燥充分并在皮肤上形成不可见的薄膜。比较例“比较例1”（无SILWAX D-02并且无SILWAX CR-5016）在涂敷于润湿皮肤上后立即呈现暂时变白现象，其未呈现良好的美观，如其使皮肤有沉重感，并且在接触润湿皮肤时趋于剥离。比较例“比较例2”（COSMOSURF CE-100和SILWAX D-02的比率为90:10，并且无SILWAX CR-5016）与“比较例1”相比表现出较弱的变白现象，但是在涂敷于润湿皮肤上后仍立即呈现出不可接受的暂时变白程度。比较例“实例3”（COSMOSURF CE-100和SILWAX D-02的比率为80:20，并且无SILWAX CR-5016）在涂敷于润湿皮肤上后立即表现非常轻微但可接受的暂时变白现象。
实例III：附加比较例的评估
比较例“比较例4-6”按类似于实例“实例1”的方式制备（也作为浓缩物），不同的是乙基聚甲基硅氧烷用这样的聚甲基硅氧烷替换，该聚甲基硅氧烷具有更长碳链的烷基取代。
具体地讲，比较例“比较例4”与发明实例“实例1”除了用鲸蜡基聚二甲硅氧烷（COSMOSURF CE-100和鲸蜡基聚二甲硅氧烷的比率为4:1，并且无SILWAX CR-5016）替换了乙基聚甲基硅氧烷之外是相同的。在涂敷于润湿皮肤上后其立即同时表现出不可接受的混浊以及轻微但不可接受的暂时变白现象。
此外，比较例“比较例5”与比较例“比较例4”除了COSMOSURFCE-100和鲸蜡基聚二甲硅氧烷的比率为1∶1之外是相同的。其在皮肤上表现出不可接受的剥离。
此外，比较例“比较例6”与比较例“比较例4”除了用月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷替换了鲸蜡基聚二甲硅氧烷之外是相同的。其在涂敷于润湿皮肤上后立即表现出暂时的不可接受的混浊。
实例II和III中的结果表明，如果辛基十二烷醇柠檬酸酯聚酯和乙基聚甲基硅氧烷以约3:1至4.25:1的重量比率存在，则组合物提供可抵抗皮肤上的水分的美观的不变白的薄膜，并允许在皮肤上形成透明的薄膜。如果这些成分的比率高于该范围，则组合物在涂敷于润湿皮肤上后会立即呈现过重的暂时变白现象。如果这些成分的比率低于该范围，或者如果乙基聚甲基硅氧烷被例如C12或C18烷基聚甲基硅氧烷替换，则所得的组合物在涂敷于润湿皮肤上后会呈现在皮肤上剥离的现象和/或暂时的混浊。
实例IV：发明实例防晒因子(SPF)的评估
使用常规的体内静态SPF测试方法对四种发明实例组合物即发明实例“实例1-4”进行防晒因子(SPF)的测试，该方法包括在涂敷于干燥皮肤上后进行80分钟的浸水。所述组合物具有分别报告为89.62、75.22、54.85和36.22的SPF。
使用改进的方法对相同组合物进行测试，该方法除了组合物被涂敷于润湿皮肤上之外与常规方法相同。具体地讲，实验受试者将自身浸在矿泉中5分钟，离开矿泉，保持在环境温度下，并在离开矿泉5分钟内，将测试材料涂敷于受试者的润湿皮肤上。所述组合物的SPF值分别为87.29、73.82、54.33和35.2。这些结果出人意外地表明，根据常规的体内方法，本发明的组合物在涂敷于润湿皮肤上时，与涂敷于干燥皮肤上时相比仅损失其SPF的很小一部分（小于3%）。
Claims (10)
1.一种组合物，包含：
挥发性溶剂；
溶于所述挥发性溶剂中的有机紫外线滤光剂；
溶于所述挥发性溶剂中的水不溶性的低挥发性C2-C8液态有机硅；
溶于所述挥发性溶剂中的多元羧酸的支链脂肪酸酯；以及
成膜聚合物，其中所述多元羧酸的支链脂肪酸酯和所述水不溶性的低挥发性C2-C8液态有机硅以约3:1至4.25:1的比率存在，其中所述组合物是无水的。
2.根据权利要求1所述的组合物，其中所述多元羧酸的支链脂肪酸酯是辛基十二烷醇柠檬酸酯聚酯。
3.根据权利要求1所述的组合物，其中所述水不溶性的低挥发性C2-C8液态有机硅包含-[CH3-SiO-CnH2n-CH3]–单元，其中n为2至8。
4.根据权利要求3所述的组合物，其中所述水不溶性的低挥发性C2-C8液态有机硅是乙基聚甲基硅氧烷。
5.根据权利要求4所述的组合物，其中所述多元羧酸的支链脂肪酸酯和所述水不溶性的低挥发性C2-C8液态有机硅以3.5:1至4:1的比率存在。
6.根据权利要求1所述的组合物，其中所述有机紫外线滤光剂选自奥克立林、苯并三唑、非均三嗪、水杨酸酯、肉桂酸酯和苯甲酰基甲烷衍生物。
7.根据权利要求1所述的组合物，还包含气溶胶推进剂。
8.根据权利要求7所述的组合物，其中所述气溶胶推进剂是二甲醚。
9.根据权利要求1所述的组合物，还包含蜡。
10.根据权利要求1所述的组合物，还包含0.1%至约5%的莲花蜡。
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| PCT/US2011/043807 WO2012009405A2 (en) | 2010-07-14 | 2011-07-13 | Skin care compositions |
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| CN113286635B (zh) * | 2019-01-15 | 2023-11-24 | 株式会社资生堂 | 防晒化妆品 |
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| AU2011279278A1 (en) | 2012-08-02 |
| NZ601152A (en) | 2014-06-27 |
| KR20120112558A (ko) | 2012-10-11 |
| BR112012018522A2 (pt) | 2019-06-18 |
| EP2509568B8 (en) | 2018-03-21 |
| CN102753140B (zh) | 2015-04-01 |
| BR112012018522B8 (pt) | 2022-08-30 |
| AU2011279278B2 (en) | 2014-01-16 |
| KR101437416B1 (ko) | 2014-09-05 |
| EP2509568B1 (en) | 2018-01-10 |
| CA2786570A1 (en) | 2012-01-19 |
| CA2786570C (en) | 2014-10-21 |
| BR112012018522B1 (pt) | 2019-11-19 |
| US20120288449A1 (en) | 2012-11-15 |
| US20120014882A1 (en) | 2012-01-19 |
| WO2012009405A2 (en) | 2012-01-19 |
| WO2012009405A3 (en) | 2012-03-08 |
| ES2660150T3 (es) | 2018-03-21 |
| EP2509568A4 (en) | 2015-12-30 |
| US8697035B2 (en) | 2014-04-15 |
| EP2509568A2 (en) | 2012-10-17 |
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