CN102061547B - Polyester fabric and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Polyester fabric and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN102061547B
CN102061547B CN200910224629.3A CN200910224629A CN102061547B CN 102061547 B CN102061547 B CN 102061547B CN 200910224629 A CN200910224629 A CN 200910224629A CN 102061547 B CN102061547 B CN 102061547B
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China
Prior art keywords
polyester
fabric
temperature
yarn
fine
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CN200910224629.3A
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CN102061547A (en
Inventor
胡金霞
蔡东照
石井正树
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Toray Sakai Weaving and Dyeing Nantong Co Ltd
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Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses a polyester fabric and a preparation method thereof. Soluble high-shrinkage polyester yarns of which the filament number is below 0.4 denier are adopted in at least one of the warp and weft directions of the fabric; and the splitting rate of the fabric is over 80 percent, and the tearing strength of the fabric is over 9.8 N. The cloth cover of the fabric combines fashion and functionality, and the polyester fabric is an ideal material for sports and relaxation. After the polyester fabric is subjected to single-surface calendaring, one surface is smooth and glossy, and the other surface offers a weak hair or chamois matte feel. In addition, the polyester fabrics do not have any splitting agent, and are simple in operation and low in cost.

Description

A kind of polyester textile and preparation method thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of polyester textile and preparation method thereof.Be specifically related to a kind of fabric containing the solubility high-shrinkage fiber and preparation method thereof.
Background technology
Along with improving constantly of living standard, people are also more and more higher to the requirement of garment material, the extremely consumers in general's favor of soft, as to have functional and fashion concurrently weaving face fabric.From walking always of current garment market, the weaving face fabric with mannerism becomes consumer's first-selection, and the very large market demand is arranged.
But this type of weaving face fabric in the market, the ubiquity feel is soft not, the water pressure resistance deficiency, tear powerful defective, the problem that cloth style is single.The individual style of this fabric and good physical property mainly are to select materials, weave, the control of a series of engineerings of rear arrangement processing, the control of particularly opening fine engineering and opening fine following process.How can obtain the desirable fine rate of opening, reach good cloth style, can guarantee that again the functional every evaluation index of finished product is good, be the difficult problem that present dyeing faces.
At present, conventional fiber opening process is that high temperature highly basic is opened fine method, as Chinese patent CN101429689A discloses a kind of superfine fibre and production method thereof, but its fiber opening process conditional request is high, scope is wide, easily causes out fine effect unstable, inhomogeneous, also easily make the common PET fiber decompose, cause fibre damage large, physical property is good not, and production cost is high, energy resource consumption is large, sewage discharge is many, to environment.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of soft, tear powerful high polyester textile and preparation method thereof.
Cloth cover effect uniqueness of the present invention, after opening fibre, cloth cover has the weak feel of wool or chamois leather velvet; Can also pass through follow-up single face calendering engineering after opening fibre, make cloth cover one-sided smooth and glossy, another side has the weak feel of wool or flock suede sense.
Technical solution of the present invention is as follows:
At least one party of fabric warp-wise of the present invention or broadwise is the solubility high-contraction polyester yarn of filament number below 0.4 DENIER, and the fine rate of opening of this fabric reaches more than 80%, tears more than brute force reaches 9.8N.
The modified soluble polyester that the conventional polyester that solubility high-contraction polyester yarn of the present invention is is 70~80% by percentage by weight and percentage by weight are 20~30% makes by composite spinning.Modified soluble polyester contained in polyester yarn reaches out fine purpose by dissolve decrement in alkali lye, makes the fabric sofetening exquisiteness.The percentage by weight of modified soluble polyester is lower than 20% the time, and the feel of fabric is fine and smooth not; When the percentage by weight of modified soluble polyester surpasses 30%, the physical property such as the brute force of yarn are difficult to guarantee.
The boiling water shrinkage of solubility high-contraction polyester yarn of the present invention is 8~38%.In general the boiling water shrinkage of yarn is higher, and fabric is tightr, water pressure resistance is higher; If, but boiling water shrinkage causes cloth cover to produce fold when too high can to cause yarn to shrink excessive, water pressure resistance reduces on the contrary.So the boiling water shrinkage of yarn of the present invention is best between 8~38%.
The preparation method of fabric of the present invention comprises and selects materials, weaves and arrange afterwards processing.
At first, select solubility high-contraction polyester yarn to be weaved as warp thread and/or weft yarn, then carry out rear arrangement processing, obtain product of the present invention.Wherein, after rear arrangement processing comprises refining, directly opened fibre.The temperature of refining is 60~105 ℃, and the slurry while adopting heat alkali liquid, refining agent removal to weave on yarn and greasy dirt etc. are dirty, and alkaline agent concentration is 5~10g/L, refining agent concentration is 4~12g/L, give larger longitude and latitude tension force simultaneously, make cloth cover smooth, be conducive to the carrying out of lower road engineering.Decide refining speed according to thickness and the refining effect of cloth, be preferably 15~80m/min.
After grey cloth carries out refining, do not need to carry out the centre typing, but directly carry out alkali decrement fiber opening process.In the middle of adopting, the typing engineering can cause half-finished powerful decline of tearing, and shrinkage reduces.Both can reduce technological process and directly open fibre, again can be cost-saving.
In fiber opening process of the present invention, adopt the High Temperature High Pressure liquid-flow dyeing machine, in alkali lye, the concentration of NaOH is 1.65~8.25g/L, and the concentration of NaOH is during lower than 1.65g/L, alkali concn is too low, the alkali decrement is opened fibre and is difficult to carry out, and the concentration of NaOH is higher than 8.25g/L, and alkali concn is too high, the impaired aggravation of fiber, tear powerful the reduction, production cost is high, and sewage discharge is many.The concentration of NaOH is opened fine rate and tears brute force better in the scope of 1.65~8.25g/L the time, and further preferably the concentration of NaOH is 4.95~6.6g/L.
Opening fine temperature is 80~130 ℃, when opening fine temperature lower than 80 ℃, need to take a long time, and just can reach the desirable fine rate of opening, and tears brute force and improve not obvious; And while opening fine temperature higher than 130 ℃, although the raising of reduction rate is very fast, open fine situation improve not obvious, larger to the damage of fiber, tear powerful descend apparent in view.And open fine temperature in the time of 80~130 ℃, open fine rate and tear brute force better, more preferably 110~120 ℃.
Open fine time 20~60min, the time is during lower than 20min, and what be difficult to obtain opens fine effect; Time, while surpassing 60min, opens fibre effect improved not obvious again, and opens fine overlong time, is unfavorable for the control of production cost.Open the fine time when 30~40min, open fine rate and tear brute force all more satisfactory.Preferably open fine time 30~40min.Bath raio 1: 10~30.Fabric of the present invention is through after fiber opening process processing, filament number below 0.4 DENIER, open fine rate and reach more than 80%, tear more than brute force reaches 9.8N.
Rear arrangement processing of the present invention also comprises RESIN FINISH.Wherein, the resin in RESIN FINISH adopts the hybrid resin of waterproof resin and soft resin, wherein waterproof resin: the mass ratio of soft resin is 1: 0.4~0.5.By the product after RESIN FINISH of the present invention, not only tear powerful highly, and the water pressure resistance index is high, makes the feel of fabric good simultaneously.Consider that polyester textile easily produces static, so also can add antistatic resin during RESIN FINISH, improve the antistatic property of fabric.The condition of the typing carried out during RESIN FINISH processing is: 150~170 ℃ of temperature, if temperature lower than 150 ℃, the cloth surface evenness slightly has deficiency, and temperature is higher than the words of 170 ℃, cloth style shows slightly inflexible and feel and hardens, cloth speed 40~50m/min, wind speed 20~30Hz.
The present invention also can carry out the single face satinage after RESIN FINISH, can make fabrics cloth cover Paint Gloss, reduces the gap between fiber, improves the water pressure resistance of fabric.The calendering temperature is at 120~180 ℃, and during lower than 120 ℃, fibre gap is difficult for seeing, and can not get higher water pressure resistance; And temperature is higher than 180 ℃, the feel hardening becomes fragile, easily crease, and preferably 140~160 ℃, cloth speed 30m/min, pressure 40~60kgf/cm 2.
The water pressure resistance of the fabric after above-mentioned RESIN FINISH-satinage, reach 500mmH after washing 5 times 2more than O.
Fabric of the present invention, through opening fine decrement processing, has the good fine rate of opening, and it is powerful good to tear, and feel is fine and smooth, have the weak feel of wool or chamois leather velvet, and unique cloth cover effect and fashion are arranged.And, after RESIN FINISH-satinage, not needing to carry out coating or fit just can obtain good water pressure resistance, and the air-moisture-permeable protection effect is arranged, cloth cover is smooth glossy simultaneously, is the good material of Sport & Casual.The present invention does not add any fine agent of opening, simple to operate, with low cost.
The specific embodiment
In the present invention, the method for testing of each physical property is as follows:
1, open fine rate (the beautiful standard in TRS east): each 5 of the test films of the latitude direction of 1. learning from else's experience 10cm*10cm.2. shine the fine situation of opening of observing the fiber section by SEM, calculate the fine rate of opening.3. the mean value of getting test data is final result.Wherein open fine rate circular as follows:
Take 8, to cut apart solubility high-shrinkage fiber yarn be example,
Opening fine last one thread has n root fiber,
Theory is opened fine rear (opening fine rate 100%): the fiber number of an one thread is 8n,
Actual open fibre after, observe the fiber number of an one thread, count m.
Open the * 100% of fine rate=(m/8n)
2, water pressure resistance: JIS L1092 (A) method.
3, tear brute force: JIS L1096 (D) method.
Below in conjunction with embodiment, the invention will be further described.
Embodiment 1:
1) yarn:
Warp thread adopts 56T-144-DTY, weft yarn adopts 87T-48-solubility high-contraction polyester yarn, in yarn, modified soluble weight polyester percentage is 20%, boiling water shrinkage is 23%, opening fine rear filament number is 0.18 DENIER, in grey cloth, solubility high-shrinkage fiber yarn content is 48.2%, and the target reduction rate is 9.6%.
2) fabric specification and weaving:
Tissue: 2/1TWILL
Grey cloth density: through close * filling density=201*152 root/in.
3) postfinishing process parameter and explanation:
Refining: temperature is 95 ℃, speed: 70m/min, the time of staying: 25~35s.
Open fibre: in the High Temperature High Pressure liquid-flow dyeing machine, carry out, in alkali lye, the concentration of NaOH is 4.95g/L, 110 ℃ of maximum temperatures, maximum temperature temperature retention time 30min, bath raio 1: 20.Programming rate: 1~2 ℃/min, cooling rate: 1~2 ℃/min, nozzle gap: 80/3, cloth speed 70m/min, liquid measure: 250L, actual reduction rate is 12.8%, opens fine rate 92%.
Dyeing: adopt liquid-flow dyeing machine to be dyeed.130 ℃ of maximum temperatures, maximum temperature temperature retention time 20min, bath raio 1: 20.
Rear drying: adopt under 130 ℃ dry.
Resin: by above-mentioned cloth antistatic additive KE05:1.0, softener KQ88:0.8, waterproofing agent KW62:2.0 processes under 140 ℃, cloth speed 60m/min.
Hot blast stentering forming: 160 ℃ of temperature, cloth speed 50m/min, wind speed 30Hz.
Calendering: 160 ℃ of temperature, cloth speed 30m/min, pressure: 60kgf/cm 2.
Finished product is through close * filling density=266*162 root/in, and the soft exquisiteness of cloth cover, simultaneously have the weak feel of wool, and one-sided smooth is glossy.JIS L1096 (D) method records tears powerful 25*12.3N, and 5 back scrubbing of JIS L1092 (A) method are washed rear water pressure resistance and are: 929mmH 2o.
Embodiment 2:
1) yarn:
All adopt 78T/2-48-solubility high-contraction polyester yarn through weft yarn, in yarn, modified soluble weight polyester percentage is 25%, and boiling water shrinkage is 10%, opens fine rear filament number 0.14 DENIER, in grey cloth, solubility high-shrinkage fiber yarn content is 100%, and the target reduction rate is 25%.
2) fabric specification and weaving:
Tissue: 2/2TWILL
Grey cloth density: through close * filling density=153*107 root/in.
3) postfinishing process parameter and explanation:
Refining: temperature is 95 ℃, speed: 70m/min, the time of staying: 25~35s.
Open fibre: in the High Temperature High Pressure liquid-flow dyeing machine, carry out, in alkali lye, the concentration of NaOH is 6.6g/L, 120 ℃ of maximum temperatures, maximum temperature temperature retention time 40 minutes, bath raio 1: 20.Programming rate: 1~2 ℃/min, cooling rate: 1~2 ℃/min, nozzle gap: 80/3, cloth speed 70m/min, liquid measure: 250L, actual reduction rate is 28.6%, opening fine rate is 91%.
Dyeing: adopt liquid-flow dyeing machine to be dyeed.Maximum temperature: 125 ℃, highest temperature temperature retention time: 20min, bath raio: 1: 20.
Rear drying: adopt under 130 ℃ dry.
Resin: by above-mentioned cloth antistatic additive KE05:1.0, softener KQ88:0.8, waterproofing agent KW62:2.0 processes under 140 ℃, cloth speed 60m/min.
Hot blast stentering forming: 160 ℃ of temperature, cloth speed 50m/min, wind speed 30Hz.
Calendering: 160 ℃ of temperature, cloth speed 30m/min, pressure: 60kgf/cm 2.
Finished product is through close * filling density=191*136 root/in, and the soft exquisiteness of cloth cover, simultaneously have the flock suede sense, and one-sided smooth is glossy.JIS L1096 (D) method records tears powerful 29.4*14.4N, and 5 back scrubbing of JIS L1092 (A) method are washed rear water pressure resistance and are: 910mmH 2o.
Embodiment 3:
1) yarn:
Warp thread adopts 56T-144-DTY, weft yarn adopts 75T/2-36-solubility high-shrinkage fiber yarn, in yarn, modified soluble weight polyester percentage is 28%, boiling water shrinkage is 38%, open fine rear filament number 0.2 DENIER, in grey cloth, solubility high-shrinkage fiber yarn content is 56.9%, and the target reduction rate is 15.9%.
2) fabric specification and weaving:
Tissue: 2/1TWILL
Grey cloth density: through close * filling density=203*112 root/in.
3) postfinishing process parameter and explanation:
Refining: temperature is 95 ℃, speed: 70m/min, the time of staying: 25~35s.
Open fibre: in the High Temperature High Pressure liquid-flow dyeing machine, carry out, in alkali lye, the concentration of NaOH is 8.25g/L, 80 ℃ of maximum temperatures, maximum temperature temperature retention time 60 minutes, bath raio 1: 30.Programming rate: 1~2 ℃/min, cooling rate: 1~2 ℃/min, nozzle gap: 80/3, cloth speed 70m/min, liquid measure: 300L, actual reduction rate is 18.1%, opening fine rate is 92%.
Dyeing: adopt liquid-flow dyeing machine to be dyeed.Maximum temperature: 120 ℃, highest temperature temperature retention time: 20min, bath raio 1: 30.
Rear drying: adopt under 130 ℃ dry.
Resin: by above-mentioned cloth antistatic additive KE05:1.0, softener KQ88:0.8, waterproofing agent KW62:2.0 processes under 140 ℃, cloth speed 60m/min.
Hot blast stentering forming: 160 ℃ of temperature, cloth speed 50m/min, wind speed 30Hz.
Calendering: 160 ℃ of temperature, cloth speed 30m/min, pressure: 60kgf/cm 2.
Finished product is through close * filling density=179*112 root/in, and the soft exquisiteness of cloth cover, simultaneously have flock suede, and one-sided smooth is glossy.JIS L1096 (D) method records tears powerful 15.9*11.5N, and 5 back scrubbing of JIS L1092 (A) method are washed rear water pressure resistance and are: 890mmH 2o.
Embodiment 4:
1) yarn:
Warp thread adopts 78T/2-48 solubility high-shrinkage fiber yarn, weft yarn adopts 84T-144-DTY, in yarn, modified soluble weight polyester percentage is 30%, boiling water shrinkage is 24%, open fine rear filament number 0.16 DENIER, in grey cloth, solubility high-shrinkage fiber yarn content is 68.3%, and the target reduction rate is 20.5%.
2) fabric specification and weaving
Tissue: 2/2TWILL
Grey cloth density: through close * filling density=153*132 root/in.
3) postfinishing process parameter and explanation:
Refining: temperature is 95 ℃, speed: 70m/min, the time of staying: 25~35s.
Open fibre: in the High Temperature High Pressure liquid-flow dyeing machine, carry out, in alkali lye, the concentration of NaOH is 1.8g/L, 130 ℃ of maximum temperatures, maximum temperature temperature retention time 20 minutes, bath raio 1: 10.Programming rate: 1~2 ℃/min, cooling rate: 1~2 ℃/min, nozzle gap: 80/3, cloth speed 70m/min, liquid measure: 200L, actual reduction rate is 24.9%, opening fine rate is 90%.
Dyeing: adopt liquid-flow dyeing machine to be dyeed.Maximum temperature: 130 ℃, highest temperature temperature retention time: 20min, bath raio: 1: 10.
Rear drying: adopt under 130 ℃ dry.
Resin: by above-mentioned cloth antistatic additive KE05:1.0, softener KQ88:0.8, waterproofing agent KW62:2.0 processes under 140 ℃, cloth speed 60m/min.
Hot blast stentering forming: 160 ℃ of temperature, cloth speed 50m/min, wind speed 30Hz.
Calendering: 160 ℃ of temperature, cloth speed 30m/min, pressure: 60kgf/cm 2.
Finished product is through close * filling density=179*159 root/in, and the soft exquisiteness of cloth cover, simultaneously have the weak feel of wool, and one-sided smooth is glossy.JIS L1096 (D) method records tears powerful 15.6*10.6N, and 5 back scrubbing of JIS L1092 (A) method are washed rear water pressure resistance and are: 860mmH 2o.

Claims (5)

1. a polyester textile is characterized in that: at least one party who forms this fabric warp-wise or broadwise is the solubility high-contraction polyester yarn of filament number below 0.4 DENIER, and the fine rate of opening of this fabric reaches more than 80%, tears more than brute force reaches 9.8N; The modified soluble polyester that the conventional polyester that described solubility high-contraction polyester yarn is is 70~80% by percentage by weight and percentage by weight are 20~30% forms by composite spinning.
2. polyester textile according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: the boiling water shrinkage of described solubility high-contraction polyester yarn is 8~38%.
3. the preparation method of a polyester textile claimed in claim 1, comprise select materials, weave, rear arrangement processing, it is characterized in that: select solubility high-contraction polyester yarn to be weaved as warp thread and/or weft yarn, then carry out rear arrangement processing, wherein, after rear arrangement processing comprises the grey cloth refining, directly carry out fiber opening process; In described fiber opening process, adopt the High Temperature High Pressure liquid-flow dyeing machine to be opened fibre, actual conditions is as follows: in alkali lye, the concentration of NaOH is 1.65~8.25g/L, and temperature is 80~130 ℃, and the time is 20~60min, and bath raio is 1:10~30.
4. the preparation method of polyester textile according to claim 3, it is characterized in that: the actual conditions of described fiber opening process is as follows: in alkali lye, the concentration of NaOH is 4.95~6.6g/L, and temperature is 110~120 ℃, and the time is 30~40min.
5. according to the preparation method of claim 3 or 4 described polyester textiles, it is characterized in that: described rear arrangement processing also comprises RESIN FINISH, wherein waterproof resin: the mass ratio of soft resin is 1:0.4~0.5.
CN200910224629.3A 2009-11-16 2009-11-16 Polyester fabric and preparation method thereof Expired - Fee Related CN102061547B (en)

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CN104342818B (en) * 2013-08-09 2017-06-30 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 A kind of breathable fabric
CN105862222A (en) * 2015-01-20 2016-08-17 吴江市万事达纺织有限公司 A fishbone pattern fabric and a preparation process therefor
CN106087302A (en) * 2016-07-13 2016-11-09 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 A kind of dyeing and finishing processing method of frivolous ventilative polyester-cotton blend anti-plumage fabric
CN111996649A (en) * 2020-08-15 2020-11-27 晋江万兴隆染织实业有限公司 Strong waterproof antistatic fabric and preparation method thereof
CN115897014A (en) * 2022-12-27 2023-04-04 广州汉德新材料股份有限公司 Calendering medical science and technology cloth and manufacturing method and application thereof

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Granted publication date: 20131225