CN101487164A - Knitting method for warp-knitting jacquard seamless fabric - Google Patents
Knitting method for warp-knitting jacquard seamless fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN101487164A CN101487164A CNA2009100074574A CN200910007457A CN101487164A CN 101487164 A CN101487164 A CN 101487164A CN A2009100074574 A CNA2009100074574 A CN A2009100074574A CN 200910007457 A CN200910007457 A CN 200910007457A CN 101487164 A CN101487164 A CN 101487164A
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- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 49
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 41
- 210000001519 tissues Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 38
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 230000000875 corresponding Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 238000009954 braiding Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 abstract description 3
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 abstract 3
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 14
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 6
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 6
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 6
- 239000011528 polyamide (building material) Substances 0.000 description 6
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 5
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 5
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 230000005012 migration Effects 0.000 description 3
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229920004933 Terylene® Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000007689 inspection Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 description 2
- 210000001624 Hip Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 241000272168 Laridae Species 0.000 description 1
- 208000008425 Protein Deficiency Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 241000700159 Rattus Species 0.000 description 1
- 238000004458 analytical method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010276 construction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002708 enhancing Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002203 pretreatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003908 quality control method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000011265 semifinished product Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
Abstract
The invention discloses a method for knitting warp-knitting jacquard-weave seamless textile, comprising the specific process flows as follows: firstly, a basic knitting process is determined; as for the general warp-knitting seamless jacquard-weave textile, a front needle bed and a rear needle bed respectively uses a guide bar to knit base fabric and respectively uses a jacquard weave guide bar to knit main jacquard weave patterns and tissues for connecting front sheets and rear sheets; secondly, information of main jacquard lapping movement and corresponding jacquard needle movement formed by the jacquard weave guide bar is determined; and finally, information of the lapping movement and jacquard weave needle action at the edge of the front garment piece and the rear garment piece is determined. The method utilizes specific process to lead certain needles at the jacquard weave guide bar to knit the edge connecting tissue and lead other jacquard weave needles to knit main patterns, thus forming the textile with natural connection and rich patterns; furthermore, additional guide bars are not used for connecting the edge, thus greatly simplifying the knitting method and improving the design efficiency and production benefits radically.
Description
Technical field:
The present invention relates to a kind of warp-knitted fabric braid method, relate in particular to a kind of braid method of warp-knitting jacquard seamless fabric.
Background technology:
Seamless fabric is meant the fabric that main position such as neck, waist, stern need not be made owing to save the seam mark, make fabric when wear undergarment, stretch freedom, it rolls into one the comfortableness and the fashion of clothes, belongs to the high-grade fabric category.Through compile seamless fabric comprise through compile seamless underwear, seamless coat, seamless sportswear, through weave pantyhose, through compile gloves, through compiling seamless product such as pipe racks, because the born plane discontinuity of woven product, have to rely on the connection of suture to realize the human body coverage effect that it is three-dimensional, so will realize that in woven field seamless almost is impossible.The method of traditional mode of production seamless fabric has four kinds: weave on (one), the circular knit machine; (2), weave on the horizontal type weft machine; (3), weave on the two-needle bar multi-bar warp knitting machine; (4) weave on the jacquard double needle-bar warp knitting machine.
Wherein the seamless fabric that weaves on the circular knit machine has abundant colors, can cooperate jacquard weave to form various decorative patterns, can form shape next to the shin at privileged sites in conjunction with the distinctive folding and unfolding pin of weft knitting technology simultaneously; Horizontal type weft machine plane No. is lower, can only use the loose seamless fabric of thicker yarn production; Generally speaking, weft-knitted seamless fabric can only use the yarn of different colours to carry out jacquard weave, structurally can only can not form the mesh of hollow out, variation based on dense organization, and structure effect lacks level.The seamless fabric that weaves on the two-needle bar multi-bar warp knitting machine adopts special sley bar braiding limit portion conjunctive tissue, owing to adopt other flower comb braiding main body decorative pattern, weaving is complicated, now seldom adopts.The seamless fabric main body clour effect that weaves on the jacquard double needle-bar warp knitting machine is simple, can not adopt thickness organizational effect simultaneously, and limit portion rat tail is not smooth simultaneously, can not realize perfect the connection.
In conjunction with above analysis, existing tricot seamless knitted method can not form the jacquard effect that decorative pattern is abundant, level is distinct, and the perfection that can not reach the fabric construction nature simultaneously connects, and part weaving complexity, causes productivity effect lower.
Summary of the invention:
The present invention is directed to above technical deficiency, provide that the limit portion of garment piece connects before and after can perfectly solving, realize the visual effect of " flawless ", form simultaneously and connect the braid method that nature, decorative pattern enrich a kind of warp-knitting jacquard seamless fabric of fabric.
For realizing above purpose, the technical solution used in the present invention is:
Preliminary preparation is: before (1) stood in machine with the people, facing machine was as the judgment standard of direction; (2) use two, four or six sley bar, wherein two jacquard guide bars are positioned at middlely, are balanced configuration; (3) from heading (right side) to tail direction (left side), with 0,1,2 ... motion is numbered to the pad yarn; (4) for preceding needle-bar jacquard weave comb, each root knitting needle banking stop on the right side is called right contact, and this state is regarded initial non-migration state as, and the lateral confinement bit slice that keeps left is called left side contact, and this state is regarded shift state as; (5) for back needle-bar jacquard weave comb, each root knitting needle lateral confinement bit slice that keeps left is initial non-migration state, and banking stop is called shift state on the right side; (6) when the knitting needle non-migration,, when knitting needle is offset, represent with information " T " with information " H " expression; (7) two lines form an effect unit, use a color grid (artistic conception lattice) expression, weave 8 jacquard informations of effect unit needs, promptly before each pin of front and back needle-bar and underlap, all need a jacquard information.
Concrete technological process is:
(1) determine basic weaving: through compiling the seamless jacquard fabric, the front and back needle-bar respectively uses a ground sley bar to weave basic base fabric for generally, and each uses one jacquard guide bar braiding main body elaborate pattern and front and back sheet conjunctive tissue.Each sley bar pad yarn elementary organization is as follows:
Preceding needle-bar ground comb: 0-1-1-1/1-0-0-0//
Preceding needle-bar jacquard weave comb: 1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1//
Back needle-bar jacquard weave comb: 1-1-1-2/1-1-1-0//
Back needle-bar ground comb: 1-1-1-0/0-0-0-1//
(2) determine motion of main body decorative pattern pad yarn and the corresponding knitting needle action message that the jacquard weave comb shape becomes:
The basic skew tissue that the jacquard weave comb shape becomes on the preceding needle-bar and the action message of its knitting needle are:
Basic thin tissue: 1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1//(HHHH/HHHH/ /)
Change thick tissue: 1-0-1-1/2-3-1-1//(HHHH/TTHH/ /)
Change mesh tissue: 2-1-1-1/1-2-1-1//(TTHH/HHHH/ /)
Change thin tissue: 2-1-1-1/2-3-1-1//(TTHH/TTHH/ /)
The basic skew tissue that the jacquard weave comb shape becomes on the back needle-bar and the action message of its knitting needle are:
Basic thin tissue: 1-1-1-2/1-1-1-0//(HHHH/HHHH/ /)
Change thick tissue: 2-2-2-3/1-1-1-0//(HHHH/HHTT/ /)
Change mesh tissue: 0-0-0-1/1-1-1-0//(HHTT/HHHH/ /)
Change thin tissue: 2-2-2-3/2-2-2-1/ // (HHTT/HHTT/ /)
(3) the pad yarn of determining garment piece limit, front and back portion moves and the knitting needle action message:
When right edge portion was basic thin tissue, the rightest one piece of knitting needle of front cut pieces carried out special pad yarn, connected needle-bar backward by preceding needle-bar, the jacquard weave control information be HTHT/HHHH//; When left side portion was basic thin tissue, the first from left piece knitting needle of rear garment piece carried out special pad yarn, connected needle-bar forward by the back needle-bar, the jacquard weave control information be HTHT/HHHH//.
When right edge portion when changing thick organizing, garment piece the rightest one piece of knitting needle in front and back all carries out special pad yarn, respectively by behind the forward direction with by after be connected forward, anter jacquard weave control information be HTHT/TTHH//, rear panel jacquard weave control information be HHHH/THTH//; When left side portion when changing thick organizing, anter jacquard weave control information be HHHH/THTH//, rear panel jacquard weave control information be HTHT/HHTT//.
The advantage of patent of the present invention is: (1) uses effect unit of 8 jacquard information braidings, has not only enriched organizational structure of fabrics, and has realized that the perfection of seamless fabric limit portion connects; (2) utilize the skew of knitting needle to carry out the seamless link of fabric limit portion, simplified the sley bar quantity that is used for connecting the limit; (3) thin tissue and thick institutional framework can weave simultaneously, have greatly enriched the clour effect of seamless fabric; (4) the fabric body decorative pattern is formed by the different shift state of jacquard guide bar, and clour effect is abundant, clear layer; (5) comb and adopt cotton, polyamide fibre, terylene, the jacquard weave comb adopts raw materials such as polyamide fibre, terylene, cotton ammonia, bright and beautiful ammonia, can improve fabric property and class; (6) utilize the jacquard process braiding can improve machine speed greatly, thereby enhance productivity.
Description of drawings:
Fig. 1 is knitting needle offset sequence definition figure of the present invention;
Wherein: (1) is the artistic conception grid; (2) be the weaving example; (3) be the offset sequence definition;
C1 is a needle-bar pin foremast yarn sequence before the odd number line; C2 is a needle-bar underlap sequence before the odd number line;
C3 is a needle-bar pin foremast yarn sequence after the odd number line; C4 is a needle-bar underlap sequence after the odd number line;
C5 is a needle-bar pin foremast yarn sequence before the even number line; C6 is a needle-bar underlap sequence before the even number line;
C7 is a needle-bar pin foremast yarn sequence after the even number line; C8 is a needle-bar underlap sequence after the even number line;
Fig. 2 is for seamless fabric thin tissue of the present invention limit portion connects, the thick limit portion connection layout of organizing;
Wherein: A-1 is the connection between the sheet thin tissue before and after the right side; A-2 is the connection between the sheet thin tissue before and after the left side; B-1 is the connection between the thick tissue of sheet before and after the right side; B-2 is the connection between the thick tissue of sheet before and after the left side.
The specific embodiment:
Be woven to example with a bright and beautiful ammonia seamless underwear, implement to divide following step:
A, selected raw material;
Preceding needle-bar ground comb: 56dtex (40f) polyamide fibre
Preceding needle-bar jacquard weave comb: 56dtex (40f) polyamide fibre+22dtex spandex wrap yarn
Back needle-bar jacquard weave comb: 56dtex (40f) polyamide fibre+22dtex spandex wrap yarn
Back needle-bar ground comb: 56dtex (40f) polyamide fibre
B, the traversing floral disc of customization or arrangement chain piece:
Select the two-needle bar electronic Jacquard warp knitting machine of West Germany's import for use, type is RDPJ6/2, perhaps selects homemade RDT6/2 for use, and plane No. is E24 (per inch 24 pins), and several 6 of sley bar uses 4 during braiding, and floral disc is several 6, and machine speed is controlled at about 800rpm during braiding.
Preceding needle-bar ground comb: 0-1-1-1/1-0-0-0//
Preceding needle-bar jacquard weave comb: 1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1//
Back needle-bar jacquard weave comb: 1-1-1-2/1-1-1-0//
Back needle-bar ground comb: 1-1-1-0/0-0-0-1//
A braiding circulation is 2 lines in this technology.
Type is spent in c, design, defines the action message of each piece knitting needle in each sequence:
Use warp-knitted fabric CAD system (WKCAD3.0) design flower type, wide as spending with the stringer number, half of line number is as spending height, different effect unit uses different color showings, thereby form the jacquard weave effect bitmap (plan of weave) of flower type, it is 810 that present embodiment is spent wide, and spending height is 884.Motion of main body decorative pattern pad yarn and corresponding knitting needle action message are:
The basic skew tissue that the jacquard weave comb shape becomes on the preceding needle-bar and the action message of its knitting needle:
Basic thin tissue: 1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1//(HHHH/HHHH/ /)
Change thick tissue: 1-0-1-1/2-3-1-1//(HHHH/TTHH/ /)
Change mesh tissue: 2-1-1-1/1-2-1-1//(TTHH/HHHH/ /)
Change thin tissue: 2-1-1-1/2-3-1-1//(TTHH/TTHH/ /)
The basic skew tissue that the jacquard weave comb shape becomes on the back needle-bar and the action message of its knitting needle are:
Basic thin tissue: 1-1-1-2/1-1-1-0//(HHHH/HHHH/ /)
Change thick tissue: 2-2-2-3/1-1-1-0//(HHHH/HHTT/ /)
Change mesh tissue: 0-0-0-1/1-1-1-0//(HHTT/HHHH/ /)
Change thin tissue: 2-2-2-3/2-2-2-1/ // (HHTT/HHTT/ /)
As shown in Figure 1 and Figure 2, the pad yarn of limit portion motion and knitting needle action message are: described, when right edge portion was basic thin tissue, the rightest one piece of knitting needle of front cut pieces carried out special pad yarn, by preceding needle-bar company needle-bar backward, the jacquard weave control information be HTHT/HHHH//; When left side portion was basic thin tissue, the first from left piece knitting needle of rear garment piece carried out special pad yarn, connected needle-bar forward by the back needle-bar, the jacquard weave control information be HTHT/HHHH//.Described, when right edge portion when changing thick organizing, garment piece the rightest one piece of knitting needle in front and back all carries out special pad yarn, respectively by behind the forward direction with by after be connected forward, anter jacquard weave control information be HTHT/TTHH//, rear panel jacquard weave control information be HHHH/THTH//; When left side portion when changing thick organizing, anter jacquard weave control information be HHHH/THHTH//, rear panel jacquard weave control information be HTHT/HHTT//.
D, determine the fabric width parameter, pass information:
Four all completely wear sley bar in this technology, can produce several seamless underwears simultaneously according to the fabric width of machine, suppose that the machine fabric width is 138 inches, and then total needle amount is 138 * 24=3312 pin, can produce four these seamless underwears simultaneously at most.
E, rear finishing duplex process flow:
Openpore check → send out dyeing workshop → preboarding (decatize under the certain vacuum condition) → pre-treatment → dyeing → post processing → oven dry setting → arrangement → inspection of semifinished product → a small amount of cutting to make → finished product inspection → finishing and packing warehouse-in.
F, fabric quality control:
Use the fabric quality parameter of this technology as follows:
On the machine horizontal close (wpc): 9.4
On the machine vertical close (cpc): 16
Finished product horizontal stroke close (wpc): 18
Finished product is indulged close (cpc): 32
The present invention adopts special process to make a few pieces of needle knitting limit portion conjunctive tissues on the jacquard guide bar, other knitting needle braiding main body decorative pattern, connect nature, the abundant fabric of decorative pattern thereby form, the braid method of warp-knitting jacquard seamless fabric of the present invention does not need extra the use manyly sley bar is carried out limit portion to connect, braid method is simplified greatly, can fundamentally be improved design efficiency and productivity effect.
Claims (4)
1, a kind of braid method of warp-knitting jacquard seamless fabric, it is characterized in that: described concrete technological process is, determine basic weaving earlier, the front and back needle-bar respectively uses a ground sley bar to weave basic base fabric, and each uses one jacquard guide bar braiding main body elaborate pattern and front and back sheet conjunctive tissue; Secondly, determine motion of main body decorative pattern pad yarn and the corresponding knitting needle action message that the jacquard weave comb shape becomes; At last, determine the motion of pad yarn and the knitting needle action message of garment piece limit, front and back portion.
2, the braid method of a kind of warp-knitting jacquard seamless fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: described each sley bar pad yarn elementary organization is: preceding needle-bar ground comb: 0-1-1-1/1-0-0-0//; Preceding needle-bar jacquard weave comb: 1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1//; Back needle-bar jacquard weave comb: 1-1-1-2/1-1-1-0//; Back needle-bar ground comb: 1-1-1-0/0-0-0-1//.
3, the braid method of a kind of warp-knitting jacquard seamless fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: the method for attachment of described garment piece limit portion, when right edge portion is basic thin tissue, the rightest one piece of knitting needle of front cut pieces carries out special pad yarn, connect needle-bar backward by preceding needle-bar, the jacquard weave control information be HTHT/HHHH//; When left side portion was basic thin tissue, the first from left piece knitting needle of rear garment piece carried out special pad yarn, connected needle-bar forward by the back needle-bar, the jacquard weave control information be HTHT/HHHH//.
4, the braid method of a kind of warp-knitting jacquard seamless fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: the method for attachment of described garment piece limit portion, when right edge portion is when changing thick organizing, garment piece the rightest one piece of knitting needle in front and back all carries out special pad yarn, respectively by behind the forward direction with by after be connected forward, anter jacquard weave control information be HTHT/TTHH//, rear panel jacquard weave control information be HHHH/THTH//; When left side portion when changing thick organizing, anter jacquard weave control information be HHHH/THTH//, rear panel jacquard weave control information be HTHT/HHTT//.
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| CNA2009100074574A CN101487164A (en) | 2009-02-14 | 2009-02-14 | Knitting method for warp-knitting jacquard seamless fabric |
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| CNA2009100074574A CN101487164A (en) | 2009-02-14 | 2009-02-14 | Knitting method for warp-knitting jacquard seamless fabric |
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| CN102425032A (en) * | 2011-10-13 | 2012-04-25 | 江南大学 | Production method of seamless clothes with multi-layer jacquard effect |
| CN102517789A (en) * | 2011-12-30 | 2012-06-27 | 王敏其 | Weaving method for seamless non-snagging warp-knitted panty stockings |
| CN102587023A (en) * | 2012-03-15 | 2012-07-18 | 东华大学 | Traceless joint fabric knitting method of double-needle-bed warp knitting machine |
| CN102742942A (en) * | 2012-07-16 | 2012-10-24 | 高要市红雨伞服饰有限公司 | Integrally formed ultra-thin seamless pantyhose and manufacture method thereof |
| CN103541146A (en) * | 2013-11-12 | 2014-01-29 | 莆田市华峰工贸有限公司 | Formation method of two-color or multi-color jacquard warp knitting cloth and warp knitting cloth formed according to same |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN102425032A (en) * | 2011-10-13 | 2012-04-25 | 江南大学 | Production method of seamless clothes with multi-layer jacquard effect |
| CN102517789A (en) * | 2011-12-30 | 2012-06-27 | 王敏其 | Weaving method for seamless non-snagging warp-knitted panty stockings |
| CN102587023A (en) * | 2012-03-15 | 2012-07-18 | 东华大学 | Traceless joint fabric knitting method of double-needle-bed warp knitting machine |
| CN102742942A (en) * | 2012-07-16 | 2012-10-24 | 高要市红雨伞服饰有限公司 | Integrally formed ultra-thin seamless pantyhose and manufacture method thereof |
| CN104032476A (en) * | 2013-03-05 | 2014-09-10 | 高要市红雨伞服饰有限公司 | Integrally-formed double fabric edge-covered hollow-out jacquard seamless pantyhose and manufacturing method thereof |
| CN104032476B (en) * | 2013-03-05 | 2017-02-08 | 高要市红雨伞服饰有限公司 | Integrally-formed double fabric edge-covered hollow-out jacquard seamless pantyhose and manufacturing method thereof |
| CN104278428A (en) * | 2013-07-09 | 2015-01-14 | 高要市红雨伞服饰有限公司 | Integrally-formed thick seamless ninth pants and manufacturing method thereof |
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| CN103572494B (en) * | 2013-11-08 | 2015-05-06 | 江南大学 | Method for weaving warp knitting seamless bottomless pantyhose |
| CN103572494A (en) * | 2013-11-08 | 2014-02-12 | 江南大学 | Method for weaving warp knitting seamless bottomless pantyhose |
| CN103541146A (en) * | 2013-11-12 | 2014-01-29 | 莆田市华峰工贸有限公司 | Formation method of two-color or multi-color jacquard warp knitting cloth and warp knitting cloth formed according to same |
| CN103541146B (en) * | 2013-11-12 | 2015-07-15 | 莆田市华峰工贸有限公司 | Formation method of two-color or multi-color jacquard warp knitting cloth and warp knitting cloth formed according to same |
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