CN104452075B - A kind of manufacture method of warp knit double-colored shaping vamp - Google Patents
A kind of manufacture method of warp knit double-colored shaping vamp Download PDFInfo
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- CN104452075B CN104452075B CN201410650697.7A CN201410650697A CN104452075B CN 104452075 B CN104452075 B CN 104452075B CN 201410650697 A CN201410650697 A CN 201410650697A CN 104452075 B CN104452075 B CN 104452075B
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- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 23
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 12
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims description 20
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 68
- 238000009954 braiding Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 210000001520 comb Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 239000000919 ceramic Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920004933 Terylene® Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000004879 dioscorea Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000008520 organization Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 abstract description 4
- 230000007613 environmental effect Effects 0.000 abstract description 2
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 abstract description 2
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 5
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920006052 Chinlon® Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000008901 benefit Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000010511 looping mechanism Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000003754 machining Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010422 painting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/20—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B27/00—Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, warp knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
- D04B27/10—Devices for supplying, feeding, or guiding threads to needles
- D04B27/24—Thread guide bar assemblies
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Abstract
The present invention relates to the production method of a kind of warp knit double-colored shaping vamp, belong to textile technology field.Fabric weaves on two-needle bar jacquard warp, have four yarn guiding chase combs, it is followed successively by only at the sley bar GB1 of front needle bar pad yarn braiding by the order of arrangement after machine forward direction machine, separate type jacquard comb JB2 and JB3 that can weave at front needle-bar and rear needle bar pad yarn, and only at the sley bar GB4 of rear needle bar pad yarn braiding;Separate type jacquard comb JB2 and JB3 uses half plane No. configuration, and when separate type jacquard comb JB2 and JB3 pads yarn lopping on front needle-bar and rear needle-bar, every Jacquard sley point can need carry out the skew of a needle gage or do not offset according to flower pattern.Production process is easy, and environmental protection, contrast effect is obvious.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to textile technology field, be specifically related to the manufacture method of a kind of warp knit double-colored shaping vamp.
Background technology
Warp knit shapes vamp and refers to only need a small amount of cutting can produce the shoes system of being directly used on tricot machine
The vamp product made.Vamp product is mainly weaved on double-needle bed raschel type tricot machine, is led by Jacquard
The skew of yarn pin forms vamp pattern at cloth cover, has the feature of " a small amount of seam is cut, once-forming ", this work
Skill simplifies vamp production procedure, reduces production cost, has wide market application foreground.Now
Warp knit on market shapes vamp fabric with terylene, chinlon as primary raw material, have good Resisting fractre and
Tensile property, can be used as finished product vamp through finishing process such as dyeing, sizings and uses.
The contrast effect of the vamp of warp knit shaping at present is mainly realized by the method such as stamp, thermal-adhering,
Forming the exquisite decorative pattern being different from main body vamp color, such decorative pattern is all to make dyestuff by chemical treatment
It is attached on fabric, the most in use gradually comes off owing to firmness is not enough, and there is dye
Liquid discharge causes environment pollution problem;It addition, the vamp after lower machine also needs directly to carry out at machining
Reason, can cause damage, and then reduce the mechanical performance of vamp fabric.
Summary of the invention
The invention aims to overcome current warp knit to shape problem present in vamp production technology, it is provided that
The production method of a kind of warp knit double-colored shaping vamp, is i.e. coordinated by dyed yarn and organizes conversion directly at loom
Upper formation has the vamp fabric of two kinds of colour effects, and its production process has the feature such as simplicity, environmental protection,
And two-color effect is abundanter.
The technical scheme provided according to the present invention, the production type of fabric is double-needle bed raschel tricot machine,
Use four yarn guiding chase combs to weave altogether, be followed successively by only at front needle bar pad by the order of arrangement after machine forward direction machine
The sley bar GB1 of yarn braiding, the separate type jacquard comb JB2.1 that can weave at front needle-bar and rear needle bar pad yarn,
JB2.2 and JB3.1, JB3.2 and the sley bar GB4 only woven at rear needle bar pad yarn;Separate type jacquard comb
JB2.1, JB2.2 and JB3.1, JB3.2 use half plane No. configuration, at separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2
Upper with JB3.1, JB3.2 equipped with piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard sley point;Separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 and
The piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard sley point of JB3.1, JB3.2, when front needle-bar or rear needle-bar occur skew, can make
Yarn does not pad yarn lopping on corresponding needle-bar;The braiding flow process of this manufacture method is as follows: sley bar GB1,
The yarn of separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 is woven into the anter formed by string set coil on front needle-bar
Fabric, separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2, the yarn of sley bar GB4 are woven into by going here and there on rear needle-bar
The rear panel fabric that set coil is formed;Piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard guide as separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2
Pin do not occur skew time, the yarn of separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 in front and back's needle bar pad yarn lopping,
Form anter fabric and the bonding pad of rear panel fabric;Separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 and separate type merchant
Card comb JB3.1, JB3.2 wear the yarn of different colours, are needing to be formed the region of two kinds of colour effects, and two
The piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard sley point of sley bar is swapped braiding, contrast effect can be formed at fabric face.
The plain cloth regional organization generation type of fabric is: separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 are at front needle-bar
Do not offset and offset at rear needle-bar, i.e. only in front needle bar pad yarn lopping;Separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2
Do not offset at rear needle-bar, i.e. only in rear needle bar pad yarn lopping in the skew of front needle-bar.
Separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 may be designed as padding yarn lopping in turn at front needle-bar and rear needle-bar,
The yarn of separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 is concurrently present in anter fabric and rear panel fabric, can will knit
Forward and backward connection of thing, and machine knocking-over bar space for 1.5-2.0mm, so anter fabric and rear panel
Fabric can fit tightly together, forms one piece of complete abundant vamp fabric.
Separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 are designed as, only in rear needle-bar lopping, preventing separate type Jacquard
The yarn of comb JB3.1, JB3.2 inweaves anter fabric, causes vamp colour mixture.
Exchange braiding refers to that separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 of previously having woven at front needle-bar become rear
Needle-bar weaves, and separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 of previously having woven at rear needle-bar become at front needle-bar
Braiding.
Described sley bar GB1, separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 wear a dyed yarn, separate type jacquard comb JB3.1,
JB3.2, sley bar GB4 wear b dyed yarn, and anter fabric is a color, and rear panel fabric is b color, separate type Jacquard
Comb JB2.1, JB2.2 and separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 are in certain area exchange braiding, and anter is knitted
Thing is b color at exchange area, and rear panel fabric is a color at exchange area, forms two-color effect.
Described production method also includes finishing process: under vamp after machine, will stretch whole cloth
Thermal finalization processes.
It is an advantage of the current invention that and utilize the direct weaving on tricot machine of two different colors of dyed yarn double-colored
Shaping vamp, method is easy, decreases dyeing process, reduces production cost and decrease environment
Pollute, do not result in vamp mechanicalness loss of energy.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is the schematic diagram of the main looping mechanism of double-needle bed raschel tricot machine;
Fig. 2 is the fabric schematic cross-section of warp knit double-colored shaping vamp.
In figure: 1 is front needle-bar, 2 is rear needle-bar, and 3 is anter fabric, and 4 is rear panel fabric, and A is front
Territory, sheet fabric pure a zone, B is territory, anter fabric pure b zone, and C is rear panel fabric ab colour mixture region,
D is bonding pad, and E is hollow area.
Detailed description of the invention
The invention will be further described below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.
Fabric weaves on double-needle bed raschel tricot machine, and plane No. is E24;Double-needle bed raschel warp
Volume machine is furnished with four yarn guiding chase combs, by the order of arrangement after machine forward direction machine, is followed successively by only at front needle-bar 1
The sley bar GB1 of pad yarn lopping, can pad the separate type jacquard comb JB2 of yarn lopping at front needle-bar 1 and rear needle-bar 2
With jacquard comb JB3, only pad the sley bar GB4 of yarn lopping at rear needle-bar 2;Separate type jacquard comb JB2 and JB3
Using half plane No. configuration, altogether in four sley bar configurations i.e. JB2.1, JB2.2, JB3.1 and JB3.2, these are four years old
Sley bar is respectively arranged with piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard sley point;At separate type jacquard comb JB2, separate type jacquard comb JB3
When padding yarn lopping on needle-bar, piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard sley point should occur a needle gage according to design needs
Skew, it is achieved the change of fabric structure.
Fabric weaves on double-needle bed raschel tricot machine, uses following procedures to weave:
(1) yarn of sley bar GB1 and separate type jacquard comb JB2 is woven into by coil on front needle-bar 1
The anter fabric 3 that mutually string set is formed, the yarn of separate type jacquard comb JB3 and sley bar GB4 is at rear needle-bar
It is woven on 2 mutually to be gone here and there by coil and overlaps the rear panel fabric 4 formed;
(2) separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 and separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 wear difference
The yarn of color, in the region that will form two kinds of colour effects, makes respective piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard guide
Pin swaps braiding, forms contrast effect.Such as, sley bar GB1 and separate type jacquard comb JB2 wears a
Dyed yarn, separate type jacquard comb JB3 and sley bar GB4 wears b dyed yarn, can shape at anter fabric and rear panel fabric
Become three kinds of color effects:
1. anter fabric pure a zone territory A, separate type jacquard comb JB2 do not offset and at rear pin at front needle-bar
Bed skew, jacquard comb JB3 does not offsets at rear needle-bar in the skew of front needle-bar, forms only separate type Jacquard
Comb JB2 yarn participates in a color anter cloth cover of braiding,
2. anter fabric pure b zone territory B, separate type jacquard comb JB2 front needle-bar skew and at rear needle-bar
Not offseting, separate type jacquard comb JB3 does not offsets at front needle-bar in the skew of rear needle-bar, is formed and only separates
Formula jacquard comb JB3 yarn participates in the anter b painting cloth face of braiding,
3. rear panel fabric ab colour mixture region C, separate type jacquard comb JB2 do not offset, separate type jacquard comb JB3
Do not offset at rear needle-bar and offset at front needle-bar, be formed with separate type jacquard comb JB2 and separate type jacquard comb
JB3 yarn participates in the rear panel ab colour mixture cloth cover of braiding jointly,
Anter fabric pure a zone territory A, anter fabric pure b zone territory B form two panels not at fabric anter
With the cloth cover region of color, i.e. form contrast effect.
Here, exchange braiding refers to separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, the JB2.2 previously woven at front needle-bar
Become weaving at rear needle-bar, and separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 of previously having woven at rear needle-bar become
Weave at front needle-bar.
(3) yarn of separate type jacquard comb JB2 needs not send out at front needle-bar and rear needle-bar according to design
Raw skew, pads yarn lopping in turn at front needle-bar 1 and rear needle-bar 2 the most respectively, separate type jacquard comb JB2.1,
The yarn of JB2.2 is concurrently present in anter fabric and rear panel fabric, anter fabric 3 and rear panel fabric 4 is connected
Connect, form bonding pad D;
(4) anter fabric 3 is used as the front of vamp, for avoiding fabric anter to produce colour mixture effect
Really, the yarn of separate type jacquard comb JB3 does not do and front and back connects, and forms hollow area E;
(5) for ensureing that the shaping vamp that weaves and rear panel can fit tightly, front needle-bar and rear needle-bar
Work bar space is set to 1.5~2mm.
Under vamp after machine, whole cloth to be carried out stretching thermal finalization and process.
According to appearance style to be realized, in the production method of double-colored shaping vamp, polyester low stretch selected by raw material
Silk or half light, have one or more in light terylene, yams is: 75D~300D.
Claims (6)
1. the manufacture method of a warp knit double-colored shaping vamp, it is characterised in that
The production type of warp knit double-colored shaping vamp is double-needle bed raschel tricot machine, this double-needle bed raschel
Tricot machine has four yarn guiding chase combs, and described four yarn guiding chase combs are depended on by the order of arrangement after machine forward direction machine
Secondary is only in sley bar GB1, the separate type that weaves at front needle-bar and rear needle bar pad yarn of the braiding of front needle bar pad yarn
Jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 and JB3.1, JB3.2 and the sley bar GB4 only woven at rear needle bar pad yarn;
Described separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 and JB3.1, JB3.2 use half plane No. configuration, in separate type
Jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 and JB3.1, JB3.2 are upper equipped with piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard sley point;Separate type is gone into business
Card comb JB2.1, JB2.2 and JB3.1, JB3.2 piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard sley point at front needle-bar or rear needle-bar
When there is skew, yarn does not pad yarn lopping on corresponding needle-bar;Under vamp after machine, whole cloth is carried out
Stretching thermal finalization processes,
Described manufacture method includes: the yarn of sley bar GB1 and separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 is front
The anter fabric formed by string set coil, separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 and comb it is woven on needle-bar
The yarn of comb GB4 is woven into the rear panel fabric formed by string set coil on rear needle-bar;When separate type Jacquard
When there is not skew in the piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard sley point of comb JB2.1, JB2.2, separate type jacquard comb JB2.1,
The yarn of JB2.2, in front needle-bar and rear needle bar pad yarn lopping, forms anter fabric and the connection of rear panel fabric
District;Separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 and separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 wear different colours
Yarn, in the region that will form two kinds of colour effects, makes respective piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard sley point carry out
Exchange braiding, forms contrast effect.
Manufacture method the most according to claim 1, it is characterised in that the plain cloth regional organization of fabric
Generation type is: separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 do not offset at front needle-bar and offset at rear needle-bar,
So that only in front needle bar pad yarn lopping;Separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 front needle-bar skew and rear
Needle-bar does not offsets, in order to only in rear needle bar pad yarn lopping.
Manufacture method the most according to claim 1, it is characterised in that separate type jacquard comb JB2.1,
JB2.2 is designed to pad yarn lopping, separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 in turn at front needle-bar and rear needle-bar
Yarn be concurrently present in anter fabric and rear panel fabric, by forward and backward connection of fabric, and machine take off
Spacing for 1.5-2.0mm of girth sheets.
Manufacture method the most according to claim 1, it is characterised in that exchange braiding refers to previously exist
Separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 of the braiding of front needle-bar become weaving at rear needle-bar, and previously at rear pin
Separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 of bed braiding become weaving at front needle-bar.
Manufacture method the most according to claim 1, it is characterised in that sley bar GB1 and separate type
Jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 wear a dyed yarn, and separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 and sley bar GB4 wear b
Dyed yarn, anter fabric is a color, and rear panel fabric is b color, separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 with point
From formula jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 in certain area exchange braiding, anter fabric is b color at exchange area,
Rear panel fabric is a color at exchange area, forms two-color effect.
Manufacture method the most according to claim 1, it is characterised in that low elastic polyester filament selected by raw material
Or half light, one or more mixing having in light terylene, yams is: 75D~300D.
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CN201410650697.7A CN104452075B (en) | 2014-11-17 | 2014-11-17 | A kind of manufacture method of warp knit double-colored shaping vamp |
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CN201410650697.7A CN104452075B (en) | 2014-11-17 | 2014-11-17 | A kind of manufacture method of warp knit double-colored shaping vamp |
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CN104452075B true CN104452075B (en) | 2016-08-17 |
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CN105386229B (en) * | 2015-10-16 | 2016-11-02 | 江南大学 | A kind of jacquard weave interval molding vamp and production method thereof |
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