CN104452075B - A kind of manufacture method of warp knit double-colored shaping vamp - Google Patents

A kind of manufacture method of warp knit double-colored shaping vamp Download PDF

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Publication number
CN104452075B
CN104452075B CN201410650697.7A CN201410650697A CN104452075B CN 104452075 B CN104452075 B CN 104452075B CN 201410650697 A CN201410650697 A CN 201410650697A CN 104452075 B CN104452075 B CN 104452075B
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China
Prior art keywords
bar
separate type
needle
yarn
comb
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Expired - Fee Related
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CN201410650697.7A
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Chinese (zh)
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CN104452075A (en
Inventor
缪旭红
蒋高明
杨大伟
马丕波
陈晴
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Jiangnan University
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Jiangnan University
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06Patterned fabrics or articles
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B27/00Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, warp knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B27/10Devices for supplying, feeding, or guiding threads to needles
    • D04B27/24Thread guide bar assemblies
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

The present invention relates to the production method of a kind of warp knit double-colored shaping vamp, belong to textile technology field.Fabric weaves on two-needle bar jacquard warp, have four yarn guiding chase combs, it is followed successively by only at the sley bar GB1 of front needle bar pad yarn braiding by the order of arrangement after machine forward direction machine, separate type jacquard comb JB2 and JB3 that can weave at front needle-bar and rear needle bar pad yarn, and only at the sley bar GB4 of rear needle bar pad yarn braiding;Separate type jacquard comb JB2 and JB3 uses half plane No. configuration, and when separate type jacquard comb JB2 and JB3 pads yarn lopping on front needle-bar and rear needle-bar, every Jacquard sley point can need carry out the skew of a needle gage or do not offset according to flower pattern.Production process is easy, and environmental protection, contrast effect is obvious.

Description

A kind of manufacture method of warp knit double-colored shaping vamp
Technical field
The invention belongs to textile technology field, be specifically related to the manufacture method of a kind of warp knit double-colored shaping vamp.
Background technology
Warp knit shapes vamp and refers to only need a small amount of cutting can produce the shoes system of being directly used on tricot machine The vamp product made.Vamp product is mainly weaved on double-needle bed raschel type tricot machine, is led by Jacquard The skew of yarn pin forms vamp pattern at cloth cover, has the feature of " a small amount of seam is cut, once-forming ", this work Skill simplifies vamp production procedure, reduces production cost, has wide market application foreground.Now Warp knit on market shapes vamp fabric with terylene, chinlon as primary raw material, have good Resisting fractre and Tensile property, can be used as finished product vamp through finishing process such as dyeing, sizings and uses.
The contrast effect of the vamp of warp knit shaping at present is mainly realized by the method such as stamp, thermal-adhering, Forming the exquisite decorative pattern being different from main body vamp color, such decorative pattern is all to make dyestuff by chemical treatment It is attached on fabric, the most in use gradually comes off owing to firmness is not enough, and there is dye Liquid discharge causes environment pollution problem;It addition, the vamp after lower machine also needs directly to carry out at machining Reason, can cause damage, and then reduce the mechanical performance of vamp fabric.
Summary of the invention
The invention aims to overcome current warp knit to shape problem present in vamp production technology, it is provided that The production method of a kind of warp knit double-colored shaping vamp, is i.e. coordinated by dyed yarn and organizes conversion directly at loom Upper formation has the vamp fabric of two kinds of colour effects, and its production process has the feature such as simplicity, environmental protection, And two-color effect is abundanter.
The technical scheme provided according to the present invention, the production type of fabric is double-needle bed raschel tricot machine, Use four yarn guiding chase combs to weave altogether, be followed successively by only at front needle bar pad by the order of arrangement after machine forward direction machine The sley bar GB1 of yarn braiding, the separate type jacquard comb JB2.1 that can weave at front needle-bar and rear needle bar pad yarn, JB2.2 and JB3.1, JB3.2 and the sley bar GB4 only woven at rear needle bar pad yarn;Separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 and JB3.1, JB3.2 use half plane No. configuration, at separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 Upper with JB3.1, JB3.2 equipped with piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard sley point;Separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 and The piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard sley point of JB3.1, JB3.2, when front needle-bar or rear needle-bar occur skew, can make Yarn does not pad yarn lopping on corresponding needle-bar;The braiding flow process of this manufacture method is as follows: sley bar GB1, The yarn of separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 is woven into the anter formed by string set coil on front needle-bar Fabric, separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2, the yarn of sley bar GB4 are woven into by going here and there on rear needle-bar The rear panel fabric that set coil is formed;Piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard guide as separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 Pin do not occur skew time, the yarn of separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 in front and back's needle bar pad yarn lopping, Form anter fabric and the bonding pad of rear panel fabric;Separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 and separate type merchant Card comb JB3.1, JB3.2 wear the yarn of different colours, are needing to be formed the region of two kinds of colour effects, and two The piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard sley point of sley bar is swapped braiding, contrast effect can be formed at fabric face.
The plain cloth regional organization generation type of fabric is: separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 are at front needle-bar Do not offset and offset at rear needle-bar, i.e. only in front needle bar pad yarn lopping;Separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 Do not offset at rear needle-bar, i.e. only in rear needle bar pad yarn lopping in the skew of front needle-bar.
Separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 may be designed as padding yarn lopping in turn at front needle-bar and rear needle-bar, The yarn of separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 is concurrently present in anter fabric and rear panel fabric, can will knit Forward and backward connection of thing, and machine knocking-over bar space for 1.5-2.0mm, so anter fabric and rear panel Fabric can fit tightly together, forms one piece of complete abundant vamp fabric.
Separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 are designed as, only in rear needle-bar lopping, preventing separate type Jacquard The yarn of comb JB3.1, JB3.2 inweaves anter fabric, causes vamp colour mixture.
Exchange braiding refers to that separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 of previously having woven at front needle-bar become rear Needle-bar weaves, and separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 of previously having woven at rear needle-bar become at front needle-bar Braiding.
Described sley bar GB1, separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 wear a dyed yarn, separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2, sley bar GB4 wear b dyed yarn, and anter fabric is a color, and rear panel fabric is b color, separate type Jacquard Comb JB2.1, JB2.2 and separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 are in certain area exchange braiding, and anter is knitted Thing is b color at exchange area, and rear panel fabric is a color at exchange area, forms two-color effect.
Described production method also includes finishing process: under vamp after machine, will stretch whole cloth Thermal finalization processes.
It is an advantage of the current invention that and utilize the direct weaving on tricot machine of two different colors of dyed yarn double-colored Shaping vamp, method is easy, decreases dyeing process, reduces production cost and decrease environment Pollute, do not result in vamp mechanicalness loss of energy.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is the schematic diagram of the main looping mechanism of double-needle bed raschel tricot machine;
Fig. 2 is the fabric schematic cross-section of warp knit double-colored shaping vamp.
In figure: 1 is front needle-bar, 2 is rear needle-bar, and 3 is anter fabric, and 4 is rear panel fabric, and A is front Territory, sheet fabric pure a zone, B is territory, anter fabric pure b zone, and C is rear panel fabric ab colour mixture region, D is bonding pad, and E is hollow area.
Detailed description of the invention
The invention will be further described below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.
Fabric weaves on double-needle bed raschel tricot machine, and plane No. is E24;Double-needle bed raschel warp Volume machine is furnished with four yarn guiding chase combs, by the order of arrangement after machine forward direction machine, is followed successively by only at front needle-bar 1 The sley bar GB1 of pad yarn lopping, can pad the separate type jacquard comb JB2 of yarn lopping at front needle-bar 1 and rear needle-bar 2 With jacquard comb JB3, only pad the sley bar GB4 of yarn lopping at rear needle-bar 2;Separate type jacquard comb JB2 and JB3 Using half plane No. configuration, altogether in four sley bar configurations i.e. JB2.1, JB2.2, JB3.1 and JB3.2, these are four years old Sley bar is respectively arranged with piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard sley point;At separate type jacquard comb JB2, separate type jacquard comb JB3 When padding yarn lopping on needle-bar, piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard sley point should occur a needle gage according to design needs Skew, it is achieved the change of fabric structure.
Fabric weaves on double-needle bed raschel tricot machine, uses following procedures to weave:
(1) yarn of sley bar GB1 and separate type jacquard comb JB2 is woven into by coil on front needle-bar 1 The anter fabric 3 that mutually string set is formed, the yarn of separate type jacquard comb JB3 and sley bar GB4 is at rear needle-bar It is woven on 2 mutually to be gone here and there by coil and overlaps the rear panel fabric 4 formed;
(2) separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 and separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 wear difference The yarn of color, in the region that will form two kinds of colour effects, makes respective piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard guide Pin swaps braiding, forms contrast effect.Such as, sley bar GB1 and separate type jacquard comb JB2 wears a Dyed yarn, separate type jacquard comb JB3 and sley bar GB4 wears b dyed yarn, can shape at anter fabric and rear panel fabric Become three kinds of color effects:
1. anter fabric pure a zone territory A, separate type jacquard comb JB2 do not offset and at rear pin at front needle-bar Bed skew, jacquard comb JB3 does not offsets at rear needle-bar in the skew of front needle-bar, forms only separate type Jacquard Comb JB2 yarn participates in a color anter cloth cover of braiding,
2. anter fabric pure b zone territory B, separate type jacquard comb JB2 front needle-bar skew and at rear needle-bar Not offseting, separate type jacquard comb JB3 does not offsets at front needle-bar in the skew of rear needle-bar, is formed and only separates Formula jacquard comb JB3 yarn participates in the anter b painting cloth face of braiding,
3. rear panel fabric ab colour mixture region C, separate type jacquard comb JB2 do not offset, separate type jacquard comb JB3 Do not offset at rear needle-bar and offset at front needle-bar, be formed with separate type jacquard comb JB2 and separate type jacquard comb JB3 yarn participates in the rear panel ab colour mixture cloth cover of braiding jointly,
Anter fabric pure a zone territory A, anter fabric pure b zone territory B form two panels not at fabric anter With the cloth cover region of color, i.e. form contrast effect.
Here, exchange braiding refers to separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, the JB2.2 previously woven at front needle-bar Become weaving at rear needle-bar, and separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 of previously having woven at rear needle-bar become Weave at front needle-bar.
(3) yarn of separate type jacquard comb JB2 needs not send out at front needle-bar and rear needle-bar according to design Raw skew, pads yarn lopping in turn at front needle-bar 1 and rear needle-bar 2 the most respectively, separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, The yarn of JB2.2 is concurrently present in anter fabric and rear panel fabric, anter fabric 3 and rear panel fabric 4 is connected Connect, form bonding pad D;
(4) anter fabric 3 is used as the front of vamp, for avoiding fabric anter to produce colour mixture effect Really, the yarn of separate type jacquard comb JB3 does not do and front and back connects, and forms hollow area E;
(5) for ensureing that the shaping vamp that weaves and rear panel can fit tightly, front needle-bar and rear needle-bar Work bar space is set to 1.5~2mm.
Under vamp after machine, whole cloth to be carried out stretching thermal finalization and process.
According to appearance style to be realized, in the production method of double-colored shaping vamp, polyester low stretch selected by raw material Silk or half light, have one or more in light terylene, yams is: 75D~300D.

Claims (6)

1. the manufacture method of a warp knit double-colored shaping vamp, it is characterised in that
The production type of warp knit double-colored shaping vamp is double-needle bed raschel tricot machine, this double-needle bed raschel Tricot machine has four yarn guiding chase combs, and described four yarn guiding chase combs are depended on by the order of arrangement after machine forward direction machine Secondary is only in sley bar GB1, the separate type that weaves at front needle-bar and rear needle bar pad yarn of the braiding of front needle bar pad yarn Jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 and JB3.1, JB3.2 and the sley bar GB4 only woven at rear needle bar pad yarn; Described separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 and JB3.1, JB3.2 use half plane No. configuration, in separate type Jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 and JB3.1, JB3.2 are upper equipped with piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard sley point;Separate type is gone into business Card comb JB2.1, JB2.2 and JB3.1, JB3.2 piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard sley point at front needle-bar or rear needle-bar When there is skew, yarn does not pad yarn lopping on corresponding needle-bar;Under vamp after machine, whole cloth is carried out Stretching thermal finalization processes,
Described manufacture method includes: the yarn of sley bar GB1 and separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 is front The anter fabric formed by string set coil, separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 and comb it is woven on needle-bar The yarn of comb GB4 is woven into the rear panel fabric formed by string set coil on rear needle-bar;When separate type Jacquard When there is not skew in the piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard sley point of comb JB2.1, JB2.2, separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, The yarn of JB2.2, in front needle-bar and rear needle bar pad yarn lopping, forms anter fabric and the connection of rear panel fabric District;Separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 and separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 wear different colours Yarn, in the region that will form two kinds of colour effects, makes respective piezoelectric ceramics Jacquard sley point carry out Exchange braiding, forms contrast effect.
Manufacture method the most according to claim 1, it is characterised in that the plain cloth regional organization of fabric Generation type is: separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 do not offset at front needle-bar and offset at rear needle-bar, So that only in front needle bar pad yarn lopping;Separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 front needle-bar skew and rear Needle-bar does not offsets, in order to only in rear needle bar pad yarn lopping.
Manufacture method the most according to claim 1, it is characterised in that separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 is designed to pad yarn lopping, separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 in turn at front needle-bar and rear needle-bar Yarn be concurrently present in anter fabric and rear panel fabric, by forward and backward connection of fabric, and machine take off Spacing for 1.5-2.0mm of girth sheets.
Manufacture method the most according to claim 1, it is characterised in that exchange braiding refers to previously exist Separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 of the braiding of front needle-bar become weaving at rear needle-bar, and previously at rear pin Separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 of bed braiding become weaving at front needle-bar.
Manufacture method the most according to claim 1, it is characterised in that sley bar GB1 and separate type Jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 wear a dyed yarn, and separate type jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 and sley bar GB4 wear b Dyed yarn, anter fabric is a color, and rear panel fabric is b color, separate type jacquard comb JB2.1, JB2.2 with point From formula jacquard comb JB3.1, JB3.2 in certain area exchange braiding, anter fabric is b color at exchange area, Rear panel fabric is a color at exchange area, forms two-color effect.
Manufacture method the most according to claim 1, it is characterised in that low elastic polyester filament selected by raw material Or half light, one or more mixing having in light terylene, yams is: 75D~300D.
CN201410650697.7A 2014-11-17 2014-11-17 A kind of manufacture method of warp knit double-colored shaping vamp Expired - Fee Related CN104452075B (en)

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CN105386229B (en) * 2015-10-16 2016-11-02 江南大学 A kind of jacquard weave interval molding vamp and production method thereof
CN105420911B (en) * 2015-11-04 2017-11-14 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 A kind of two-sided jacquard pattern design weaving
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CN111304819A (en) * 2020-03-16 2020-06-19 福建华峰新材料有限公司 Composite texture jacquard fabric and production process and application thereof
CN113403744A (en) * 2021-06-24 2021-09-17 福建漳平协龙高新化纤有限公司 Knitting process of warp-knitted double-needle-bed jacquard multicolor three-dimensional fabric, fabric and shoe upper

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