CN102425032A - Production method of seamless clothes with multi-layer jacquard effect - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了具有多层次提花效应的无缝服装生产方法,其特征是:在双针床多梳贾卡经编机上生产,地梳单独地在各自针床成圈,不摆动到相对的针床垫纱,形成基本织物;贾卡提花梳栉在各自的针床编织提花花纹,形成花式地网,在边部将前后针床的织物进行连接;多梳花梳梳栉在各自的针床编织轻花纹、重花纹、轮廓花纹等具有立体效应的花纹,与贾卡梳栉配合形成立体感强、地网丰富的经编无缝提花服装;本发明解决了现有无缝服装一般仅具有单一的结构效应,其花式地网和立体花纹结构没有能够有机结合的问题,从工艺方法上创新性地在双针床经编机上将贾卡提花和多梳花梳提花结合起来,为高档无缝服装的开发提供有效方法。
The invention discloses a seamless garment production method with multi-level jacquard effect, which is characterized in that: the production is performed on a double-needle bed multi-comb jacquard warp knitting machine, and the ground combs form loops on each needle bed separately without swinging to the opposite needle Mattress yarn to form the basic fabric; Jacquard bars weave jacquard patterns on their respective needle beds to form fancy ground nets, and connect the fabrics on the front and rear needle beds at the edges; Bed weaves patterns with three-dimensional effects such as light patterns, heavy patterns, and outline patterns, and cooperates with jacquard bars to form warp-knitted seamless jacquard garments with strong three-dimensionality and rich ground nets; the invention solves the problem that the existing seamless garments generally only It has a single structural effect, and there is no problem of organic combination of its fancy ground net and three-dimensional pattern structure. From the perspective of technological methods, it innovatively combines Jacquard jacquard and multi-comb jacquard on a double-needle bed warp knitting machine. The development of high-grade seamless garments provides an effective method.
Description
技术领域: Technical field:
本发明专利涉及一种经编无缝服装的生产方法,特别公开一种具有变化地网、轻花纹、重花纹和轮廓花纹等多层次提花效应的无缝服装生产方法。The patent of the present invention relates to a production method of warp-knitted seamless garments, and particularly discloses a production method of seamless garments with multi-layered jacquard effects such as changing ground nets, light patterns, heavy patterns and outline patterns.
背景技术: Background technique:
无缝服装在颈、腰、臀等主要部位无须缝制,由于省去缝迹,使得服装在穿着时贴身合体、伸展自由,它将服装的舒适性和时尚性集于一身,属于高档服装范畴。梭织工艺无法直接编织无缝服装,一般是先编织面料,然后依靠裁剪、缝制和整烫形成三维立体的服装。现有生产无缝服装的方法有针织纬编方法和针织经编方法两种。Seamless garments do not need to be sewn on the neck, waist, buttocks and other main parts. Due to the omission of seams, the garments fit snugly and stretch freely when worn. It combines the comfort and fashion of the garments and belongs to the category of high-end garments. . The woven process cannot directly weave seamless garments. Generally, fabrics are woven first, and then three-dimensional garments are formed by cutting, sewing and ironing. The existing methods of producing seamless garments have two kinds of knitting weft knitting method and knitting warp knitting method.
针织纬编方法即在纬编无缝机上进行无缝服装生产,可以采用不同的组织结构、不同的纱线原料等方法形成具有一定色彩和花式效应的服装。但是针织纬编工艺由于横向纱线的连续性,无法形成结构多变、层次丰富的凹凸网孔效应和立体花纹效应。The knitting and weft knitting method is to produce seamless garments on a weft knitting seamless machine. Different organizational structures, different yarn raw materials, etc. can be used to form garments with certain colors and fancy effects. However, due to the continuity of the transverse yarns, the knitting and weft knitting process cannot form the concave-convex mesh effect and three-dimensional pattern effect with variable structure and rich layers.
针织经编方法即在双针床贾卡无缝经编机上进行无缝服装生产,可以使用贾卡提花梳栉形成丰富的地网,并利用局部的贾卡提花针形成无缝的边部。但是针织经编方法由于原料、穿纱、送经等工艺条件的限制,无法形成层次丰富、立体感强的花纹效应。The warp knitting method is to produce seamless garments on a double-needle bed Jacquard seamless warp knitting machine. Jacquard bars can be used to form a rich ground net, and partial Jacquard needles can be used to form seamless edges. However, the warp knitting method cannot form a pattern effect with rich layers and strong three-dimensional effect due to the limitations of raw materials, yarn threading, warp let-off and other technological conditions.
为实现织物的花纹效应,实践中还可采用生产无缝连裤袜的方法,即在双针床多梳经编机上,使用两边的花梳在地组织上形成简单的花纹图案,但是这种方法形成的织物地组织简单,无法生产变化地网组织。In order to achieve the pattern effect of the fabric, the method of producing seamless pantyhose can also be used in practice, that is, on the double-needle bed multi-comb warp knitting machine, the flower combs on both sides are used to form simple pattern patterns on the ground tissue, but this The texture of the fabric formed by the method is simple, and it is impossible to produce variable mesh textures.
结合以上分析,现有无缝服装一般仅具有单一的结构效应,尤其是经编无缝服装,其花式地网和立体花纹结构没有能够有机结合,使经编无缝服装的开发一直徘徊不前。因此,需要进一步提高工艺技术,将网孔效应与立体花纹效应结合起来,即需要从工艺方法上创新性地在双针床经编机上将贾卡提花和多梳花梳提花结合起来,为高档无缝服装的开发提供有效方法。Combined with the above analysis, the existing seamless garments generally only have a single structural effect, especially the warp-knitted seamless garments, whose fancy ground net and three-dimensional pattern structure can not be organically combined, so that the development of warp-knitted seamless garments has been lingering. forward. Therefore, it is necessary to further improve the process technology and combine the mesh effect with the three-dimensional pattern effect, that is, it is necessary to innovatively combine the Jacquard jacquard and the multi-comb jacquard on the double-needle bed warp knitting machine in terms of the process method. The development of seamless garments provides an effective method.
发明内容: Invention content:
本发明针对现有技术的不足,提供一种具有多层次提花效应的无缝服装生产方法,将电子贾卡技术和多梳起花技术在双针床经编机上有机结合起来,这种编织方法可以使经编无缝服装既具有丰富的地组织花纹效果,又可以使主体花纹立体感强,解决前述无缝服装生产的不足。Aiming at the deficiencies of the prior art, the present invention provides a seamless garment production method with multi-level jacquard effect, which organically combines electronic jacquard technology and multi-comb raising technology on a double-needle bed warp knitting machine. This knitting method The warp-knitted seamless garment can not only have a rich ground texture pattern effect, but also make the main pattern have a strong three-dimensional effect, and solve the aforementioned shortcomings in the production of seamless garments.
为实现以上目的,本发明专利采用的技术方案是:In order to achieve the above object, the technical scheme adopted by the patent of the present invention is:
具有多层次提花效应的无缝服装生产方法,其特征是:在双针床多梳贾卡经编机上生产,地梳单独地在各自针床成圈,不摆动到相对的针床垫纱,形成基本织物;贾卡提花梳栉在各自的针床编织提花花纹,形成花式地网,在边部将前后针床的织物进行连接;多梳花梳梳栉在各自的针床编织轻花纹、重花纹、轮廓花纹等具有立体效应的花纹,与贾卡梳栉配合形成立体感强、地网丰富的经编无缝提花服装。The method for producing seamless garments with multi-level jacquard effect is characterized in that: it is produced on a double-needle bed multi-comb Jacquard warp knitting machine, the ground combs form loops on each needle bed separately, and do not swing to the opposite needle bed to lay yarn, Form the basic fabric; jacquard jacquard bars weave jacquard patterns on their respective needle beds to form a fancy ground net, and connect the fabrics on the front and rear needle beds at the edge; multi-comb jacquard bars weave light patterns on their respective needle beds Patterns with three-dimensional effects, such as heavy patterns and outline patterns, can be combined with jacquard bars to form warp-knitted seamless jacquard garments with strong three-dimensional effect and rich ground net.
所述的双针床多梳贾卡经编机在前后针床各配备至少1把地梳,各配备至少1把贾卡提花梳栉,各配备至少1把花梳梳栉。The double-needle bed multi-comb jacquard warp knitting machine is equipped with at least one ground comb on each of the front and rear needle beds, each equipped with at least one jacquard bar, and each equipped with at least one floral bar.
所述的双针床多梳贾卡经编机前针床地梳垫纱为0-1-1-1/1-0-0-0//,前针床提花梳基本垫纱为1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1//,前针床花梳采用衬纬方式按图案要求形成各种立体花纹;后针床地梳垫纱1-1-1-0/0-0-0-1//,后针床提花梳基本垫纱为1-1-1-2/1-1-1-0//,后针床花梳采用衬纬方式按图案要求形成各种立体花纹。The ground combing yarn on the front needle bed of the double-needle bed multi-comb Jacquard warp knitting machine is 0-1-1-1/1-0-0-0//, and the basic laying yarn on the front needle bed jacquard comb is 1- 0-1-1/1-2-1-1//, the pattern comb on the front needle bed adopts the weft insertion method to form various three-dimensional patterns according to the pattern requirements; the ground comb on the rear needle bed is 1-1-1-0/0 -0-0-1//, the basic inlaid yarn of the jacquard comb on the rear needle bed is 1-1-1-2/1-1-1-0//, the pattern comb on the rear needle bed adopts the weft insertion method to form each A three-dimensional pattern.
本发明专利通过可解决的技术问题是:The technical problems that can be solved by the patent of this invention are:
(1)发明一种双针床多梳贾卡经编机,将在无缝提花织物经编机上,在机器的最外两侧加装分布于不同横移线的多把花梳梳栉。花梳梳栉的数目根据实际生产服装的要求而定,每条横移线上的花梳数目为1-10把,每侧的横移线条数为1-6条,实现了多层次提花效应的无缝服装生产机器特殊配置需要。(1) Invent a kind of double-needle bar multi-comb jacquard warp knitting machine, on the seamless jacquard warp knitting machine, install many flower comb bars distributed in different traverse lines on the outermost two sides of the machine. The number of patterned combs depends on the requirements of actual garment production. The number of patterned combs on each traverse line is 1-10, and the number of traverse lines on each side is 1-6, realizing the multi-level jacquard effect The special configuration of the seamless garment production machine is required.
(2)发明一种具有多层次提花效应的无缝服装生产方法,现有无缝服装一般仅具有单一的结构效应,尤其是经编无缝服装,其花式地网和立体花纹结构没有能够有机结合。具有多层次提花效应的无缝服装生产工艺在双针床多梳贾卡经编机上将贾卡提花和多梳花梳提花结合起来,形成立体感强、地网丰富的经编无缝提花服装。(2) Invent a method for producing seamless garments with multi-level jacquard effects. Existing seamless garments generally only have a single structural effect, especially warp-knitted seamless garments, whose fancy ground net and three-dimensional pattern structure are not able to organic combination. The seamless garment production process with multi-level jacquard effect combines the jacquard and multi-comb jacquard on the double-needle bed multi-comb jacquard machine to form a warp-knitted seamless jacquard garment with a strong three-dimensional effect and a rich ground network .
附图说明: Description of drawings:
附图1为本发明的双针床多梳贾卡经编机梳栉配置示意图;Accompanying drawing 1 is the schematic diagram of bar configuration of double-needle bar multi-comb Jacquard warp knitting machine of the present invention;
图中,FJB1.1和FJB1.2为前针床的两把半机号的分离贾卡梳,合成一把满机号的贾卡梳FJB1,FGB2为前针床的地梳,FPB3-8和FPB9-14为前针床的花梳;后针床的标注与前针床相对应。In the figure, FJB1.1 and FJB1.2 are two half-gauge separated jacquard combs of the front needle bed, and a full gauge jacquard comb FJB1 is synthesized, FGB2 is the ground comb of the front needle bed, FPB3-8 And FPB9-14 are pattern combs of the front needle bed; the label of the rear needle bed corresponds to that of the front needle bed.
具体实施方式: Detailed ways:
(1)无缝服装设计,在双针床多梳贾卡织物花型设计系统中设计服装的花型和无缝边部,设计内容包括:地梳的垫纱工艺、贾卡梳的提花颜色信息、花梳的垫纱轨迹。其中,前针床地梳垫纱为0-1-1-1/1-0-0-0//,前针床提花梳基本垫纱为1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1//,前针床花梳采用衬纬方式按图案要求形成轻花纹、重花纹或轮廓花纹;后针床地梳垫纱1-1-1-0/0-0-0-1//,后针床提花梳基本垫纱为1-1-1-2/1-1-1-0//,后针床花梳采用衬纬方式按图案要求形成轻花纹、重花纹或轮廓花纹;(1) Seamless garment design, design the pattern and seamless edge of the garment in the double-needle bed multi-comb Jacquard fabric pattern design system. The design content includes: the yarn lapping process of the ground comb, and the jacquard color of the Jacquard comb Information, yarn laying track of flower comb. Among them, the ground combing yarn of the front needle bed is 0-1-1-1/1-0-0-0//, and the basic laying yarn of the jacquard comb of the front needle bed is 1-0-1-1/1-2-1 -1//, the pattern comb on the front needle bed adopts the weft insertion method to form light patterns, heavy patterns or outline patterns according to the pattern requirements; the ground comb on the rear needle bed is 1-1-1-0/0-0-0-1/ /, the basic inlaid yarn of jacquard comb on the rear needle bed is 1-1-1-2/1-1-1-0//, the flower comb on the rear needle bed adopts the weft insertion method to form light patterns, heavy patterns or outline patterns according to the pattern requirements ;
(2)上机控制文件生成,根据设计系统中绘制的花型图案,在系统中生成具有梳栉垫纱信息、贾卡提花信息、经轴送纱量信息、织物牵拉量信息的上机花型控制文件。上机文件通过软盘、U盘等形式读入到双针床多梳贾卡经编机上,也可以通过网络传输的方式。同时生成纸质文档和电子文档用以安排上机生产。(2) The control file generation of the upper machine, according to the pattern drawn in the design system, generates the upper machine information in the system with the bar laying information, jacquard information, warp beam feeding amount information, and fabric pulling amount information Pattern control file. The files on the machine are read into the double-needle bed multi-comb Jacquard warp knitting machine through floppy disk, U disk, etc., and can also be transmitted through the network. At the same time, paper documents and electronic documents are generated to arrange on-machine production.
(3)按照一般成型经编织物生产和后整理方法进行。(3) Carry out according to the production and finishing methods of general shaped warp knitted fabrics.
本发明专利解决了现有无缝服装一般仅具有单一的结构效应,其花式地网和立体花纹结构没有能够有机结合的问题,从工艺方法上创新性地在双针床经编机上将贾卡提花和多梳花梳提花结合起来,为高档无缝服装的开发提供有效方法。The patent of the invention solves the problem that the existing seamless garments generally only have a single structural effect, and the fancy ground net and the three-dimensional pattern structure cannot be organically combined. The combination of card jacquard and multi-comb jacquard provides an effective method for the development of high-grade seamless garments.
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