CN100435675C - Fabric used for making warm underclothes - Google Patents

Fabric used for making warm underclothes Download PDF

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Publication number
CN100435675C
CN100435675C CNB200710019606XA CN200710019606A CN100435675C CN 100435675 C CN100435675 C CN 100435675C CN B200710019606X A CNB200710019606X A CN B200710019606XA CN 200710019606 A CN200710019606 A CN 200710019606A CN 100435675 C CN100435675 C CN 100435675C
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Prior art keywords
face fabric
thermal underwear
cloth
agent
underwear face
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CN101002633A (en
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潘爱玉
陈燮元
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DONGFANG DYEING AND FINISHING PLANT CHANGSHU CITY
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DONGFANG DYEING AND FINISHING PLANT CHANGSHU CITY
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Abstract

A fabric for heat-insulating underwear is composed of the surface structure made of polyester fibers and substrate made of polyurethane cored cotton yarn. Its productive method includes such steps as weaving by dual-surface loom, pre-treating, and dyeing, finishing, post-treating, scotching, pre-fixating shape, napping, combining, shearing, ironing, swinging, and fixating shape.

Description

Thermal underwear face fabric and processing method thereof
Technical field
What the present invention relates to is a kind of thermal underwear face fabric, and relates to the processing method of this lining, belongs to textile technology field.
Background technology
Materials such as the insulation flocculus that gum sprayed cotton wadding material, no collodion flocculus, water acupuncture manipulation obtain, doughnut material, space wadding once once had been used as the lining that the processing cold-proof underwear is used, for example outward appearance is too fat to move, gas permeability is poor, the hydrofuge shortcoming, wash the understanding that the back composite bed easily comes unstuck or the like to the weak property of above-mentioned raw materials but along with people, therefore, the thermal underwear face fabric that is processed into above-mentioned raw materials is not withdrawed from market because of not thinking highly of gradually.
The related warming cloth of real silk of CN2438574Y is by continuous non-woven fabric compounded the forming of material in the fabric of nexine and outer field real silk, skin can be established gauze layer, be actually the clearly demarcated MULTILAYER COMPOSITE cloth of a kind of hierarchical structure, motility is big each other, wash durability is extremely fragile, does not especially belong to truly knitting thermal underwear plus material.
CN1718124A has just released the thermal underwear face fabric of making through a series of procedure of processing with silk cocoon, undeniable this lining has good thermal property, frivolous comfortable, the advantage that sucting wet air permeability is desirable of dress, but can't realize suitability for industrialized production, can be to this from two tip cut-offs with common silk cocoon of its introduction, the centre is cut open, remove the cocoon content, open and flat is small chrysalis sheet, with machine or manual connect scattered small chrysalis sheet, gravity dry-pressing at normal temperatures becomes the procedure of processing of smooth fabric cloth to be confirmed.And the raw material of this thermal underwear face fabric is difficult to ensure.In addition,, as if more approach artifacts be lining, its expensive and can make us step back.
Perhaps for above-mentioned many reasons, comparatively common and underwear fabric occuping market leading position that know for the consumer of existing market mainly contains following two kinds: the one, and common undercoat suede, ultra-fine super gentle undercoat fleece underwear lining, the raw material of this underwear fabric is full terylene, though have flexibility and warmth retention property, but hygroscopicity, gas permeability are all undesirable, and be known, and the polyster fibre silk is a hydrophobic fibre, general character with general chemical fibre, so electrostatic phenomenon is comparatively serious; Color and luster degree and brightness and elasticity are all not ideal enough; Feel difference and lack bulkiness.The 2nd, all-cotton knitting single jersey (being all-cotton knitting cloth) is made underwear fabric, have certain elasticity, can not produce many strong points of electrostatic phenomenon, gas permeability excellence, but have that feel owes abundant, washing shrinkage is high, conformal weak effect, the lines not mellow and full property of tool, not plentiful concordant weakness of fine hair.
Make a general survey of the pluses and minuses of above-mentioned two kinds of underwear fabrics, the applicant think if can with these two kinds of underwear fabrics separately good and bad complementary, to can yet be regarded as so be a kind of act of ideal, yet do not see have similar bibliographical information and actual lining product to go on the market up to now.
Summary of the invention
Task of the present invention be to provide a kind of have soft, thermal property is desirable, the thermal underwear face fabric of high resilience and gas permeability, hygroscopicity excellence.
Task of the present invention also is to provide a kind of processing method of thermal underwear face fabric, and this method processing step is succinct and do not have fastidious property, raw material is easy to get, and can ensure the flexibility of lining and required color and luster effect.
Task of the present invention is finished like this, a kind of thermal underwear face fabric, comprise covering weave and end tissue, the raw material of described covering weave is a polyster fibre, and the raw material of tissue of the described end is a cotton polyurethane core-spun yarn, wherein: the content that the content of polyster fibre accounts for the 50-61% of total composition, cotton fiber accounts for the 38-46% of total composition, the content of spandex fibre accounts for the 1.0-2.5% of total composition, described polyster fibre is the superfine denier polyester fiber, and described superfine denier polyester fiber is the 150D/288F dacron ultrafine fiber.
The processing method of thermal underwear face fabric provided by the present invention may further comprise the steps:
A) weave, organize the end of as, as covering weave,, obtain grey cloth through two-sided woven making with polyster fibre with cotton polyurethane core-spun yarn;
B) grey cloth is carried out pre-treatment, obtain grey cloth to be dyed;
C) grey cloth to be dyed is dyeed, obtain stained clot-h;
D) stained clot-h is put in order;
E) post processing, open-width, pre-setting, plucking, carding, cropping, scald light, shake grain, the finished product typing, obtain thermal underwear face fabric.
In one embodiment of the invention, the pre-treatment step B) is to add soda ash 1.5-3g/L, scouring agent 2-4g/L, chelated dispersants 0.8-1.5g/L in water-bath; The control bath temperature is that 90-100 ℃, processing time are that the gait of march of 25-35min, cloth is 20-25m/min.
In another embodiment of the present invention, step C) material that the dyeing described in is adopted is disperse dyes and auxiliary agent, and described auxiliary agent is levelling agent and glacial acetic acid.
In another embodiment of the present invention, step D) arrangement described in is to drop into the terylene of fabric weight ratio to use softening agent 8-10%, leavening agent 2-3%, superfine fibre softening agent 2-3%, brightener 2-4% with softening agent 5-7%, cotton in dye vat; bath raio is 1: 8-10, normal temperature dewaters after handling 50-70min.
The setting temperature of the pre-setting in another embodiment of the present invention, step e) is 155-165 ℃, and cloth speed is 20-30m/min.
The setting temperature of the finished product typing in yet another embodiment of the present invention, step e) is 155-165 ℃, and cloth speed is 25-35m/min.
The present invention since selected polyster fibre particularly the superfine denier polyester fiber make covering weave, cotton polyurethane core-spun yarn is made end tissue, especially polyster fibre, cotton, spandex three's weight portion reasonable mixture ratio, the deficiency separately of the common undercoat suede in the prior art, ultra-fine super gentle undercoat fleece underwear lining and all-cotton knitting single jersey lining can be remedied effectively, get their strong point is double simultaneously.Polyster fibre has excellent soft texture and hygroscopicity, and cotton polyurethane core-spun yarn elasticity is abundant and skin-friendly is good and have good warming effect and desirable gas permeability.
The specific embodiment
Embodiment 1:
A) weave, choose 150D/288F superfine denier polyester fiber and make covering weave, choose 32S combed cotton spandex core-spun yarn and make end tissue, wherein: the content of 150D/288F in whole fabric is 51.5%, the content of cotton fiber in whole fabric is 46%, the content of spandex fibre in whole fabric is 2.5%, be put to 32 pins that two-sided machine for example produces by TaiWan, China, 38 o'clock two-sided large circle machines then or weave, obtain grey cloth by 32 pins, 38 o'clock two-sided circular knitting machines that the grand Knitting Machinery in Wuxi City Wuxi, Jiangsu Province, China Co., Ltd produces;
B) will be by steps A) resulting grey cloth puts into overflow dyeing machine and carries out pre-treatment, overflow dyeing machine is the high temperature double overflow overflow dyeing machine that widely adopts of dyeing for example, add soda ash 2g/L and adding then in the water in overflow dyeing machine (being generally running water) as producing by the refined fortune chemical industry in Shanghai, Shanghai City, China Co., Ltd, the trade mark of selling is that the concise degreaser of LAP emulsification is scouring agent 3g/L and adds as tie up bright chemical industry Co., Ltd by the Suzhou City, Jiangsu Province, China and produce, the trade mark of selling is for washing happy friend 100 type chelated dispersants 1g/L, 100 ℃ of control bath temperatures, processing time is 30min, the gait of march of cloth is controlled to be 25m/min, obtains grey cloth to be dyed;
C) dyeing, disperse dyes and auxiliary agent are joined by step B) in the described high temperature double overflow overflow dyeing machine, the concrete color of disperse dyes and the input amount of input amount and auxiliary agent are to the quality requirements of product and fixed according to the user, wherein: auxiliary agent comprises levelling agent and glacial acetic acid, it is 1011 levelling agents that levelling agent preferably adopts such as the trade mark of being produced and sold by Jiangsu Province, China Wuxi City dolantin chemical industry Co., Ltd, obtains stained clot-h;
D) stained clot-h is put in order, earlier will be by step C) resulting stained clot-h drops in the dye vat, the Q113 dye vat that dye vat for example adopts dyeing generally to adopt, in dye vat, drop into the terylene softening agent 6% of stained clot-h weight ratio then, cotton with softening agent 10%, leavening agent 2%, superfine fibre softening agent 2%, brightener 3%, the control bath raio is 1: 9 (water of the cloth of 1 weight portion and 9 weight portions), go out cylinder after handling 60min, dehydration, send step e) carry out post processing, in this step: described terylene preferably adopts by Tian Yuan chemical plant, Jiangsu Province, China shining sun city with softening agent and produces, the trade mark of selling is the super gentle aminosilicone emulsifier of TY-209 type, describedly cotton tie up the production of bright chemical industry Co., Ltd as adopting by the Suzhou City, Jiangsu Province, China with softening agent, the trade mark of selling is the comfortable spit of fland of a CA-195 softening agent, described leavening agent for example adopts the Jiangsu Province, China Yixing City to rise star chemical industry Co., Ltd and produces, the trade mark of selling is a GES type leavening agent, described superfine fibre for example adopts by Tian Yuan chemical plant, Jiangsu Province, China shining sun city with softening agent and produces, the trade mark of selling is a TY-207 dipping silicone oil emulsion, and described brightener for example adopts by Jiangsu Province, China Wuxi City dolantin chemical industry Co., Ltd and produces, the trade mark of selling is the DML brightener;
E) post processing, will be via step D) grey cloth after the arrangement or claim cloth according in the prior art to common undercoat suede, the identical processing step of ultra-fine super gentle undercoat suede carries out open-width (also have on the industry and claim to cut open the width of cloth) in regular turn, pre-setting, plucking, carding, cropping, scald light, shake grain, the finished product typing, obtain having the thermal underwear face fabric of effect shown in the table 1, in this step, the setting temperature of described pre-setting is 160 ℃, the cloth speed control is built in 25m/min, and padding machine for example adds to be tieed up bright chemical industry Co., Ltd by the Suzhou City, Jiangsu Province, China and produce, the trade mark of selling is the comfortable spit of fland of AK-28 type raising agent 30g/L; The temperature of described finished product typing is 160 ℃, the fast 30m/min of being of cloth.
Embodiment 2
Only with steps A) in the content of 150D/288F in whole fabric change 61% into, cotton fiber and the content of spandex fibre in whole fabric changes 38% and 1% respectively into; Only with step B) in the throwing amount of soda ash change that 1.5g/L, scouring agent change 2g/L into, chelated dispersants changes 0.9g/L into into, bath temperature changes the gait of march that 90 ℃, processing time change 35min, cloth into into and changes 20m/min into; Only with step D) in terylene with softening agent change 5% into, cotton with softening agent change 8% into, leavening agent changes 3% into, superfine fibre with softening agent change 3% into, brightener changes 4% into, bath raio changes 1: 8 into, the processing time changes 65min into; Only with step e) in the setting temperature of pre-setting change 165 ℃, cloth speed into and change 30m/min into, change the finished product setting temperature into 155 ℃, cloth speed and change 25m/min into.All the other are all with the description to embodiment 1.Resulting thermal underwear face fabric has the effect shown in the table 1.
Embodiment 3
Only with steps A) in the content of 150D/288F in whole fabric change 58.5% into, cotton fiber and the content of spandex fibre in whole fabric changes 40% and 1.5% respectively into; Only with step B) in the throwing amount of soda ash change that 2.2g/L, scouring agent change 2.5g/L into, chelated dispersants changes 1.2g/L into into, bath temperature changes the speed of carrying out that 95 ℃, processing time change 32min, cloth into into and changes 22m/min into; Only with step D) in terylene with softening agent change 5.5% into, cotton with softening agent change 9% into, leavening agent changes 2.5% into, superfine fibre with softening agent change 2.5% into, brightener changes 2.5% into, bath raio changes 1: 9 into, the processing time changes 70min into; Only with step e) in the setting temperature of pre-setting change 155 ℃, cloth speed into and change 28m/min into, change the finished product setting temperature into 158 ℃, cloth speed and change 27m/min into.All the other are all with the description to embodiment 1, and resulting thermal underwear face fabric has the effect shown in the table 1.
Embodiment 4
Only with steps A) in the content of 150D/288F in whole fabric change 52.5% into, cotton fiber and the content of spandex fibre in whole fabric changes 45.5% and 2% respectively into; Only with step B) in the throwing amount of soda ash change that 2.5g/L, scouring agent change 3.5g/L into, chelated dispersants changes 1.5g/L into into, bath temperature changes the speed of carrying out that 98 ℃, processing time change 28min, cloth into into and changes 25m/min into; Only with step D) in terylene with softening agent change 7% into, cotton with softening agent change 8.5% into, leavening agent changes 2% into, superfine fibre with softening agent change 2% into, brightener changes 2.5% into, bath raio changes 1: 9.5 into, the processing time changes 55min into; Only with step e) in the setting temperature of pre-setting change 158 ℃, cloth speed into and change 28m/min into, change the finished product setting temperature into 162 ℃, cloth speed and change 31m/min into.All the other are all with the description to embodiment 1, and resulting thermal underwear face fabric has the effect shown in the table 1.
Embodiment 5
Only with steps A) in the content of 150D/288F in whole fabric change 56.2% into, cotton fiber and the content of spandex fibre in whole fabric changes 42% and 1.8% respectively into; Only with step B) in the throwing amount of soda ash change that 3g/L, scouring agent change 4g/L into, chelated dispersants changes 0.8g/L into into, bath temperature changes the speed of carrying out that 97 ℃, processing time change 25min, cloth into into and changes 23m/min into only with step D) in terylene with softening agent change 6.5% into, cotton with softening agent change 9.5% into, leavening agent changes 2.8% into, superfine fibre with softening agent change 2.7% into, brightener changes 2% into, bath raio changes 1: 8.5 into, the processing time changes 50min into; Only with step e) in the setting temperature of pre-setting change 162 ℃, cloth speed into and change 26m/min into, change the finished product setting temperature into 165 ℃, cloth speed and change 34m/min into.All the other are all with the description to embodiment 1, and resulting thermal underwear face fabric has the effect shown in the table 1.
Table 1 is the ultra-fine super gentle undercoat velvet fabric in thermal underwear face fabric of the present invention and the prior art and the physical property contrast table of knitting single jersey lining
Figure C20071001960600101
Annotate:
1. gas permeability
Experimental condition: water ware method is tested.
Condition: 25 ℃ of wet-bulb temperature, dry-bulb temperature 35C °, relative humidity 45%, 2 hours time, sample area 37.5cm 2
2. hygroscopicity is that regain is measured under the status of criterion, 20 ℃, and 65%RH.
3. flexibility is to make up common evaluation gained result through 10 people.
4 warmth retention property test conditions: test fabric surface temperature rise efficient after using far-infrared radiation 30min under 37C ° the environment temperature.
5. flexibility test is carried out FCP14 method (the detection method physical index that Chinese popular lining inspection center formulates).

Claims (7)

1, a kind of thermal underwear face fabric, comprise covering weave and end tissue, the raw material that it is characterized in that described covering weave is a polyster fibre, and the raw material of tissue of the described end is a cotton polyurethane core-spun yarn, wherein: the content that the content of polyster fibre accounts for the 50-61% of total composition, cotton fiber accounts for the 38-46% of total composition, the content of spandex fibre accounts for the 1.0-2.5% of total composition, described polyster fibre is the superfine denier polyester fiber, and described superfine denier polyester fiber is the 150D/288F dacron ultrafine fiber.
2, a kind of processing method of thermal underwear face fabric as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that may further comprise the steps:
A) weave, organize the end of as, as covering weave,, obtain grey cloth through two-sided woven making with polyster fibre with cotton polyurethane core-spun yarn;
B) grey cloth is carried out pre-treatment, obtain grey cloth to be dyed;
C) grey cloth to be dyed is dyeed, obtain stained clot-h;
D) stained clot-h is put in order;
E) post processing, open-width, pre-setting, plucking, carding, cropping, scald light, shake grain, the finished product typing, obtain thermal underwear face fabric.
3, the processing method of thermal underwear face fabric according to claim 2 is characterized in that step B) described in pre-treatment in water-bath, adding soda ash 1.5-3g/L, scouring agent 2-4g/L, chelated dispersants 0.8-1.5g/L; The control bath temperature is that 90-100 ℃, processing time are that the gait of march of 25-35min, cloth is 20-25m/min.
4, the processing method of thermal underwear face fabric according to claim 2 is characterized in that step C) described in the material that adopts of dyeing be disperse dyes and auxiliary agent, and described auxiliary agent is levelling agent and glacial acetic acid.
5, the processing method of thermal underwear face fabric according to claim 2, it is characterized in that step D) described in arrangement be in dye vat, drop into the terylene of fabric weight ratio with softening agent 5-7%, cotton with softening agent 8-10%, leavening agent 2-3%, superfine fibre with softening agent 2-3%, brightener 2-4%; bath raio is 1: 8-10, normal temperature dewaters after handling 50-70min.
6, the processing method of thermal underwear face fabric according to claim 2 is characterized in that step e) described in the setting temperature of pre-setting be 155-165 ℃, cloth speed is 20-30m/min.
7, the processing method of thermal underwear face fabric according to claim 2 is characterized in that step e) described in the setting temperature of finished product typing be 155-165 ℃, cloth speed is 25-35m/min.
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