CH714643B1 - Decorated component integrating at least one ornamental element for timepieces or jewellery. - Google Patents

Abstract

Method for crimping at least one ornamental element (2) with an at least partially transparent or translucent component (3) of a timepiece or piece of jewelry, in particular of precious or semi-precious stone, capable of rendering said at least one ornamental element (2) visible through an outer surface (4a) of said component (3), the method comprising the following steps: forming at least one cavity (5a, 5b, 5c, 5d, 5e , 5f) from an inner surface (4b) of the component (3), said at least one cavity (5a to 5f) being adapted to form a receiving housing for said at least one ornamental element (2), and positioning positioning of said at least one ornamental element (2) in said at least one cavity (5a to 5f), filling of said cavity with a transparent or translucent resin so as to maintain the at least one element of ornament (2) in the thickness of the component (3) and thus form a decorated component (1).

Description

The invention relates to a crimping method of at least one ornamental element with a component of a timepiece or jewelry. It also relates to the decorated component obtained by this process, as well as a timepiece or piece of jewelery as such incorporating such a decorated component.

In the field of jewelry and watchmaking, it is known to use assembly processes, also called crimping processes, to fix one or more precious stones on a piece of jewelry or watchmaking, such as a ring, a necklace, a watch or other, generally in precious metal. There are different crimping techniques: grain or claw, closed or invisible, descended or rail. Invisible crimping is particularly interesting, from an aesthetic point of view, because it makes it possible to pave a surface or to produce a pattern with precious stones, without the claws or the means of holding the stones being seen. These tiles or patterns can use stones of different shapes and/or colors. It is thus possible to create gradations of colors or mosaics by combining, for example, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, etc.

[0003] The present invention proposes a new approach for decoration in watchmaking and jewelry, making it possible to design a component decorated with timepieces and/or jewelry, with very varied designs.

[0004] To this end, the invention relates to a process for crimping at least one ornamental element with an at least partially transparent or translucent component of a timepiece or piece of jewelry, in particular in precious or semi-precious stone. -precious, capable of making said at least one ornamental element visible through an outer surface of said component, the method comprising the following steps: formation of at least one cavity from an inner surface of the component, said at least one cavity being adapted to form a receiving housing for said at least one ornamental element, and placing said at least one ornamental element in said at least one cavity, filling of said cavity with a transparent or translucent resin so as to maintain the at least one ornamental element in the thickness of the component and thus form a decorated component.

[0005] The resin may comprise a color close to or identical to that of the material of the component at least close to said cavity and/or a refractive index substantially identical to that of said material of the component at least close to said cavity.

[0006] The forming step may comprise an ablation of material in the component by means of mechanical or laser machining.

[0007] The assembly step may comprise a sub-step of temporarily fixing said at least one ornamental element in said at least one cavity of the component after it has been put in place within said cavity.

[0008] A temporary fixing sub-step may comprise a step of arranging in the cavity a temporary immobilization element of said at least one ornamental element in this cavity.

[0009] The temporary immobilization element can be an elastic element, in particular a spring.

The assembly method may comprise a step of partially filling said at least one cavity with a resin aimed at ensuring that said at least one ornamental element retained in the cavity is held in this cavity, then the removal of the temporary asset.

[0011] The assembly method may include a step of performing an anti-reflective treatment on said component, in particular when this component is made of sapphire.

[0012] The invention also relates to a decorated component for a timepiece or piece of jewelery comprising an at least partially transparent or translucent component, in particular in precious or semi-precious stone, and at least one ornamental element positioned and maintained in its thickness within a cavity produced by an inner surface and filled with a transparent or translucent resin at least partially surrounding the ornamental element, so that the ornamental element is visible from an outer surface of the making up.

The component may be at least partially transparent or translucent at said cavity so that the ornamental element is visible from an outer surface of the component through the transparent or translucent thickness of said component.

[0014] The component may be in precious or semi-precious stone, such as a sapphire or a diamond, and/or the resin may comprise a color close to or identical to that of the material of the component, at least close to said cavity. , and/or a refractive index substantially identical to that of said material of the component, at least close to said cavity.

[0015] The cavity may be a blind hole so that the component comprises a continuous and intact outer surface, at least at the level of a zone superimposed on the ornamental element.

The component may have a thickness less than or equal to 5 mm, or even less than or equal to 3 mm, at least at the level of the ornamental element.

[0017] The ornamental element may be made of a material from the group comprising a precious stone, a semi-precious stone, a precious metal, a metal alloy, a ceramic and metal crystals, or comprises an organic plant material or animal, such as a flower, an insect, in particular an ant, butterfly wings, a beetle, or a shell.

[0018] The decorated component may comprise several ornamental elements arranged in contact with each other within the same cavity and/or different cavities so as to produce the effect of an invisible crimp within the component. .

[0019] The decorated component can be a bezel, a crystal, a dial and/or a flange of a timepiece.

The invention also relates to a timepiece or piece of jewelry, characterized in that it comprises at least one decorated component as described above.

These objects, characteristics and advantages of the present invention will be set out in detail in the following description of a particular embodiment given on a non-limiting basis in relation to the appended figures, among which: FIG. 1 is a view of top of a decorated component for a timepiece, such as a bezel, comprising several ornamental elements, according to one embodiment of the invention. Figure 2 is a bottom view of this decorated component according to the embodiment of the invention. Figure 3 is a III-III sectional view of this decorated component according to the embodiment of the invention. Figure 4 is a IV-IV sectional view of this decorated component according to the embodiment of the invention. FIG. 5 is a schematic representation of a timepiece or piece of jewelry comprising a component decorated according to the embodiment of the invention. FIG. 6 is a flowchart relating to a method for assembling at least one ornamental element on a component for a timepiece or jewelry piece according to one embodiment of the invention.

With reference to Figures 1 to 5, the invention will be illustrated in the context of the decoration of a sapphire bezel for a timepiece, in particular for a wristwatch, by way of example. Naturally, it remains suitable for implementation for the decoration of other timepiece or jewelry components, in particular other sapphire components.

[0023] By convention, we will use the adjective "inside" to designate a part or a surface of a component intended to be oriented towards the timepiece or jewelry piece, and which will be at least partly hidden, and vice versa. the adjective “exterior” to designate a part or a surface intended to be oriented outside the timepiece or jewelry piece, and which will be at least partly visible to an observer.

The embodiment of the invention therefore illustrates a decorated sapphire bezel for a timepiece 10, comprising at least one ornamental element 2, preferably several ornamental elements 2, obtained by a process of assembly or crimping, illustrated in FIG. 6. More specifically, this decorated bezel is therefore formed by the integration of at least one ornamental element 2 into a component 3 to form a decorated component 1, a decorated bezel according to the chosen example.

A method of assembling at least one ornamental element 2 with a component 3 will now be explained, with reference to FIG. 6, according to one embodiment of the invention. This method contributes to attaching at least one ornamental element 2 to component 3 of a timepiece or piece of jewelery 10, to achieve a result which is similar to invisible crimping.

To do this, the method includes a step 11 of forming one or more cavities 5a to 5f in an inner surface 4b of a component 3, here the bezel. Such a forming step 11 is advantageously carried out by mechanical or laser machining, such machining being carried out so that each cavity 5a to 5f is adapted to form a housing for receiving at least one ornamental element 2.

More specifically, according to the embodiment, this step 11 comprises a sub-step 12 of producing at least one cavity 5a to 5f by removal of material from the inner surface 4b of the component 3 by means of machining mechanical or laser. This laser ablation makes it possible to hollow out the inner surface 4b of component 3 in order to extract therefrom a portion of material for the creation of several cavities 5a to 5f. Each cavity 5a to 5f thus created is in the form of a blind hole, which may have a shape complementary to the ornamental element(s) 2 to be arranged therein. Naturally, the invention does not relate specifically to the shape of the decoration, therefore not to the number of cavity(ies) or ornamental element(s), which can be arbitrary. As a side note, this step has no impact on the outer surface 4a opposite the inner surface 4b, superimposed on a cavity thus formed.

Of course, it is possible to envisage using different types of laser making it possible to obtain such laser machining of a cavity 5a to 5f in a component 3 of a timepiece 10.

In addition, any combination of number of cavities and number of ornamental element 2 can be considered. Thus, such a cavity formation step 11 then makes it possible to obtain from the inner surface 4b of the component 3: a single cavity 5a to 5f adapted to form a housing for receiving a single ornamental element 2 or a plurality of ornamental elements 2; a plurality of cavities 5a to 5f, each cavity 5a to 5f of which is adapted to form a housing for receiving a single ornamental element 2 or a plurality of ornamental elements 2; a plurality of cavities 5a to 5f of which at least first and second cavities 5a to 5f are adapted to form housings for receiving respectively a single ornamental element 2 and a plurality of ornamental elements 2.

The method then comprises an optional step 13 of performing an anti-reflective treatment on component 3, in particular when this component 3 is a precious stone such as sapphire. Such a step 13 comprises a substep 14 of applying a thin layer of material with a low refractive index to the outer surface 4a, the inner surface 4b and/or said at least one cavity 5a to 5f of the component 3. During this sub-step 14, a physical vapor deposition, better known by the acronym "PVD", of such a thin layer is then carried out, in particular under vacuum, from an evaporation or sputtering. It will be noted that such an antireflection treatment, in addition to its antireflection function, contributes to improving the resistance of the resin used in contact with component 3, as will be detailed below.

Next, the method provides for a step 15 of mounting at least one ornamental element 2 in at least one cavity 5a to 5f of the component 3. This step 15 comprises a sub-step of positioning 16 of said at least one at least one ornamental element 2 in said at least one cavity 5a to 5f. During this sub-step 16, at least one ornamental element 2 is then inserted into each cavity 5a to 5f.

Next, the assembly step 15 comprises a sub-step 17 of temporarily attaching said at least one ornamental element 2 to the component 3, more precisely in a cavity 5a to 5f of this component 3. This temporary attachment has for the purpose of maintaining an ornamental element 2 in the desired final position within a cavity of the component 3: this final position can respect aesthetic and technical criteria.

Finally, the method comprises a step 20 of filling the cavity with a resin. This resin makes it possible to close the cavities produced, while definitively maintaining each ornamental element within a cavity, in the chosen position. The resin therefore at least partially surrounds each ornamental element to ensure its maintenance.

This last step of filling 20 can be carried out in several distinct steps, in combination with the sub-step of fixing 17 temporarily. Indeed, this temporary fixing sub-step 17 may comprise a step of arranging 18 in a cavity 5a to 5f of an element for temporary immobilization of an ornamental element 2. During this step of arranging 18 , a temporary immobilization element is preferably placed in each cavity 5a to 5f. According to one embodiment, such an immobilizing element may for example be a spring, a first end of which supports at least one ornamental element in the chosen final location, when the spring is at rest, and a second end of which is held to an external device.

The method then comprises a partial filling sub-step 19 of at least one cavity 5a to 5f with resin, until the resin comes into contact with at least one ornamental element and comes to ensure maintaining it, and before the resin reaches the immobilizing element, the spring according to this embodiment.

Then, the temporary immobilization element can therefore be removed since the ornamental element remains held by the resin, then the step of completely filling the cavity can be finalized.

In this embodiment, the spring used as a temporary immobilization element has the advantage of providing flexibility which promotes the passage of the resin around each ornamental element, so that the resin fills a cavity from its bottom, while allowing an elastic repositioning of the ornamental element 2 at the desired location in its cavity when the resin has been able to partially fill the bottom of the cavity. As a side note, it is possible to use one spring per ornamental element or for several ornamental elements, or even several springs for the same ornamental element. In addition, it is possible to use one spring per cavity 5a to 5f or several springs per cavity. As a variant, the spring can be replaced by any elastic element.

In an alternative embodiment, a temporary immobilization element can be an adhesive material, such as glue, which then temporarily connects the ornamental element 2 to at least one wall of a cavity of the component.

Finally, after complete filling 20 of each cavity, the method may include an optional finishing step 21, consisting in cleaning the interior surface of the decorated component 1 obtained, to avoid any overflow of resin and obtain a perfectly flat interior surface. and/or continues the decorated component 1.

[0040] As a side note, it is noted that an anti-reflective treatment as mentioned previously fulfills a second technical function of improving the adhesion between the resin and the component at their interface, in particular when this component is made of sapphire.

Naturally, this method is particularly intended for a component 3 that is at least partially transparent or translucent at the level of a zone superimposed on an ornamental element to allow perfect or blurred visibility of such an ornamental element 2 by its outer surface.

On the other hand, the resin used is similarly transparent or translucent, so as not to hide the ornamental element(s) 2 that it surrounds and maintains.

[0043] According to an advantageous embodiment, the resin is chosen to have a similar or even identical appearance to the material of component 3, at least at the level of a cavity. It can thus present the same color. Advantageously, it also has a refractive index identical to that of the material of component 3, to ensure optical continuity at the interface between component 3 and the resin, at the level of a cavity, which does not make it possible to detect the naked eye the presence of the resin within the component 3. The result obtained is similar to an invisible crimping of at least one ornamental element 2 suspended in the thickness of a component 3. In addition, the outer surface 4a of component 3 remains unchanged and continuous, retaining all its properties intact. In particular, it has an optimal aesthetic appearance due to its continuity, appreciable to the eye and to the touch, while forming a protective surface for the timepiece or piece of jewelery on which it is mounted, in particular against scratches, naturally in addition to the protection of the ornamental elements it covers.

[0044] This assembly process offers the possibility of achieving a multitude of decorative effects, in a very simple way, by varying the materials, shapes, colors, number, etc., of the ornamental elements, which can be any, depending on the decorative aspect chosen. Advantageously, it makes it possible to arrange ornamental elements in precious material or in noble metal, or in any metal alloy, within a transparent or translucent component, possibly very rigid, for example itself also coming from a stone. precious.

The resin used is preferably a transparent synthetic resin. For example, this resin can be a high quality optical silicone resin. As a side note, during the filling steps, the resin is heated beforehand to make it sufficiently liquid to promote its introduction into a cavity 5a to 5f of the component. After curing, it guarantees the maintenance of the ornamental elements, as well as the sealing of the decorated component.

The invention also relates to a decorated component 1 obtained by such an assembly process.

Figures 1 to 4 thus illustrate an example in which the component 3 is a sapphire watch bezel, and the ornamental elements 2 are in the form of small gold rods.

The bezel is transparent, even translucent, and comprises outer surfaces 4a and inner 4b opposite, flat and parallel, as well as mounting areas 6. The bezel also comprises outer edges 7a and inner 7b circular, connecting the surfaces inner and outer 4a, 4b between them, and delimiting the annular shape of the bezel.

In this bezel, the mounting zones 6 are defined between these two outer 7a and inner 7b edges and are provided to ensure the fixing of the bezel and therefore of the decorated component 1 on a timepiece 10. Each zone of mounting 6 is provided with a through hole 8 opening at each of its ends into the outer 4a and inner 4b surfaces. This hole is provided to cooperate with a connecting element such as a screw, so as to participate in the fixing of this component 3 and therefore of the decorated component 1 on the timepiece 10.

The outer surface 4a of the component 3 is visible to an observer of the timepiece 10, when this component 3 is attached to the timepiece 10. As explained, this outer surface 4a is preferably flat, smooth and/or continue. It is also intact, that is to say that it is devoid of any type of alteration or damage which would in particular be liable to degrade the transparency or the appearance of component 3.

[0051] Cavities 5a to 5f extend from the inner surface 4b, adapted to form housings for receiving ornamental elements 2. In the bezel, several cavities 5a to 5f are defined from this inner surface 4b, extending between the outer and inner edges 7a, 7b on the one hand and the mounting zones 6 on the other hand. In this component 3, each cavity 5a to 5f is adapted to form a housing capable of receiving a plurality of ornamental elements 2, or even a single ornamental element 2.

In this embodiment, such an ornamental element 2 can be a precious or semi-precious stone, or else an element made of precious metal (gold, platinum), ceramic or metal crystals (in particular gold crystals). As a variant, in all the embodiments, an ornamental element 2 can be any stone, or come from an organic plant or animal material, such as a flower, an insect, in particular an ant, butterfly wings, a beetle , or a seashell.

Referring to Figure 1, we see that in such a decorated component 1, the ornamental element or elements 2 arranged in the cavities 5a to 5f defined from the inner surface 4b, are visible through the outer surface 4a.

The resulting decorated component 1 may comprise a plurality of ornamental elements, in particular several stones, which are housed in the same cavity 5a to 5f according to an arrangement configuration of these ornamental elements which may consist of several baguette-cut stones placed side by side, to obtain a visual impression of invisible continuous setting. As a variant, this decorated component 1 can also comprise a plurality of ornamental elements 2, each of which is housed in a corresponding cavity 5a to 5f, the cavities 5a to 5f possibly being arranged close to each other so that the ornamental elements 2, visible through the outer surface 4a, appear glued to each other, with no visible sight of a crimp.

In such a decorated component 1, the initial component 3 is for example a constituent element of a timepiece 10, resulting from the cutting or shaping of a precious or semi-precious stone, such as a transparent sapphire or even a diamond, in order to give it the shape and/or the function expected in the timepiece 10. In a non-limiting and non-exhaustive manner, the component 3 of the timepiece 10 can be a crystal, a dial, a flange or even a bezel as in the present embodiment of the invention described above.

The invention is thus particularly suitable for decorating a thin component, for example a bezel or a glass with a thickness less than or equal to 5 mm, or even less than or equal to 3 mm. This component is therefore advantageously presented as a part of a flat plate of small thickness, comprising two flat, even slightly curved, and opposite, preferably parallel, outer and inner surfaces. Each cavity has a depth less than this thickness of the component, so as not to alter its outer surface. This depth can for example represent a maximum of 75% of the thickness of the component at the place where the cavity is made. In the extreme case of a watch crystal, its thickness may be very small, in particular between about 1 and 3 mm, preferably equal to 2 mm, and the depth P of a cavity is then preferably less than or equal to 1mm.

[0057] In an alternative embodiment, the component 3 can simply be a precious or semi-precious stone having a decorative function in the timepiece or piece of jewelery 10.

Claims (17)

1. Process for crimping at least one ornamental element (2) with an at least partially transparent or translucent component (3) of a timepiece or piece of jewelery (10), in particular made of precious or semi-precious stone. valuable, capable of making said at least one ornamental element (2) visible through an outer surface (4a) of said component (3), the method comprising the following steps: – formation (11) of at least one cavity (5a, 5b, 5c, 5d, 5e, 5f) from an inner surface (4b) of the component (3), said at least one cavity (5a to 5f) being adapted to form a receiving housing for said at least one ornamental element (2), and – Installation (16) of said at least one ornamental element (2) in said at least one cavity (5a to 5f), - filling (20) of said cavity with a transparent or translucent resin so as to maintain the at least one ornamental element (2) in the thickness of the component (3) and thus form a decorated component (1). 2. Assembly method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the resin has a color close to or identical to that of the material of the component (3) at least close to said cavity and/or a refractive index substantially identical to that said component material (3) at least close to said cavity. 3. Assembly method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the forming step (11) comprises an ablation of material in the component (3) by means of mechanical or laser machining. 4. Assembly method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a sub-step of fixing (17) temporarily said at least one ornamental element (2) in said at least one cavity (5a to 5f) of the component (3) after the step of positioning (16) said at least one ornamental element (2) in said at least one cavity (5a to 5f). 5. Assembly method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said temporary fixing sub-step (17) comprises a step of arranging (18) in the cavity (5a to 5f) a temporary immobilization element said at least one ornamental element (2) in this cavity (5a to 5f). 6. Assembly method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the temporary immobilization element is an elastic element, in particular a spring. 7. Assembly method according to one of claims 5 to 6, characterized in that it comprises a step of partially filling (19) said at least one cavity (5a to 5f) with a resin aimed at ensuring in this cavity (5a to 5f) of said at least one ornamental element (2) retained in the cavity (5a to 5f), then the removal of the temporary immobilization element. 8. Assembly method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a step of performing (13) an anti-reflection treatment on said component (3), in particular when this component (3) is in sapphire. 9. Decorated component (1) for a timepiece or piece of jewelery (10) comprising a component (3) at least partially transparent or translucent, in particular in precious or semi-precious stone, and at least one ornamental element ( 2) positioned and held in the thickness of the component within a cavity made by an inner surface (4b) and filled with a transparent or translucent resin at least partially surrounding the ornamental element (2), so that the ornamental element (2) is visible from an outer surface (4a) of the component (3). 10. Decorated component (1) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the component (3) is at least partially transparent or translucent at the level of said cavity so that the ornamental element (2) is visible from a surface exterior (4a) of the component (3) through the transparent or translucent thickness of said component (3). 11. Decorated component (1) according to one of claims 9 and 10, characterized in that the component (3) is made of precious or semi-precious stone, such as a sapphire or a diamond, and/or in that the resin has a color close to or identical to that of the material of the component (3), at least close to said cavity, and/or in that the resin has a refractive index substantially identical to that of the said material of the component (3) at least close to said cavity. 12. Decorated component (1) according to one of claims 9 to 11, characterized in that the cavity is a blind hole so that the component (3) comprises a continuous and intact outer surface (4a), at least at the level of a zone superimposed on the ornamental element (2). 13. Decorated component (1) according to one of claims 9 to 12, characterized in that the component (3) has a thickness less than or equal to 5 mm, or even less than or equal to 3 mm, at least at the level of the ornamental element (2). 14. Decorated component (1) according to one of claims 9 to 13, characterized in that the ornamental element (2) is made of a material from the group comprising a precious stone, a semi-precious stone, a precious metal , a metal alloy, a ceramic and metal crystals, or comprises an organic plant or animal material, such as a flower, an insect, in particular an ant, butterfly wings, a beetle, or a shell. 15. Decorated component (1) according to one of claims 9 to 14, characterized in that it comprises several ornamental elements (2) arranged in contact with each other within the same cavity and/or of different cavities so as to produce the effect of an invisible crimp within the component (3). 16. Decorated component (1) according to one of claims 9 to 15, characterized in that it is a bezel, a crystal, a dial or a flange of a timepiece (10). 17. Timepiece or piece of jewelery (10), characterized in that it comprises at least one decorated component (1) according to one of claims 9 to 16.