CH711956A2 - Cosmetic composition having anti-radical properties. - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to compositions with anti-radical properties for topical use comprising at least one extract of one or more plants as active ingredients, their use on the one hand for the improvement and / or prevention of signs aging of the skin, on the other hand to improve and / or promote skin repair, and methods for preparing said compositions.

Description

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION [0001] The subject of the present invention is compositions with topical anti-radical properties comprising at least one extract of one or more plants as active ingredients, their use on the one hand for the improvement and / or prevention of the signs of aging of the skin, on the other hand for improving and / or promoting skin repair, and methods for preparing said compositions.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION [0002] Aging is a natural phenomenon to which any individual is confronted. The most visible signs of aging appear on the face, the skin losing its tone and the first wrinkles appearing.

[0003] The skin is vulnerable to attack by free radicals. These oxidizing molecules can be dangerous in case of excess and play an important role in skin aging.

Free radicals, generated by the normal functioning of the human body, are generally balanced with antioxidant molecules. The natural mechanisms of antioxidant defense of the skin involve molecules such as vitamin E, vitamin C, selenium, or enzymes. These antioxidant molecules have the main property of trapping the free radicals of the body in order to maintain the equilibrium between the free radicals and the antioxidant molecules.

[0005] Free radicals are also produced under the influence of external elements such as pollution, tobacco or UV rays. In some situations, the density of antioxidants decreases, while the level of free radicals increases. The natural balance between the free radicals and the antioxidant molecules is then disturbed creating an oxidative stress. This stress makes them aggressive towards the body, particularly with respect to the fundamental elements of the skin, such as (in particular) keratinocytes, fibroblasts, as well as the production of collagen and elastin. The consequences of skin aggression by free radicals are multiple and the most common are its loss of strength and elasticity.

Many solutions have been developed to try to slow down the appearance of these signs of age or to repair signs already installed.

In this context, it is important to provide compositions with anti-free radical properties to strengthen the natural defenses of the skin and help fight against free radicals. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION [0008] The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: - an aqueous phase, - at least one extract of one or more plants as active ingredients, chosen from the group comprising Mimosa tenuiflora, Limnanthes alba, Arnica montana, Calendula officinalis, Harpagophytum procumbens, and Ruscus acuieatus, - allantoin and - at least one suitable adjuvant.

According to another object, the present invention relates to a method for preventing and / or improving the signs of skin aging, wherein said cosmetic composition is applied to the skin.

The invention also relates to the use of said cosmetic composition for topical use to protect the skin against free radicals.

According to another object also, the present invention relates to a composition comprising: - an aqueous phase, - at least one extract of one or more plants as active ingredients, chosen from the group comprising Mimosa tenuiflora, Limnanthes alba, Arnica montana, Calendula officinalis, Harpagophytum procumbens, and Ruscus acuieatus, allantoin and at least one suitable adjuvant.

Another object of the invention is the use of said composition for improving and / or promoting skin repair, comprising the topical application of said composition.

Another object of the invention relates to a method of manufacturing said cosmetic composition or said composition comprising the following steps: a) preparing an aqueous solution of allantoin at least 0.1%; b) mixing said aqueous allantoin solution with an extract of one or more plants as active ingredients, said plants being selected from the group consisting of Mimosa tenuiflora, Limnanthes alba, Arnica montana, Calendula officinalis, Harpagophytum procumbens and Ruscus acuieatus, and c) add to the mixture b) at least one suitable adjuvant.

Another object of the invention is a kit comprising said cosmetic composition.

Brief description of figures [0015]

Fig. 1 represents the paramagnetic resonance spectra of the electron: superoxide radical scavenging activity in the presence or absence of the product at concentrations of 0.1; 0.25; and 5%, or the reference molecule, SOD at 400 IU / ml.

Fig. 2 represents the paramagnetic resonance spectra of the electron: activity of trapping hydroxyl radicals in the presence or absence of the product at concentrations of 0.03, 0.33 and 1.6% (w / v) or of the reference molecule, mannitol at 10 mM (0.182%, w / v).

Fig. 3 shows the effects of the cosmetic composition and SOD on the RPE signal of the DMPO / radi-cal superoxide complex.

Fig. 4 shows the effects of the cosmetic composition and SOD on the EPR signal of the DMPO / radi-cal hydroxyl complex.

Fig. 5 shows the effects of the cosmetic composition at time o, after 3 months and 5 months of use with 2 daily applications.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [0016] The purpose of the invention described below is to propose a cosmetic composition comprising: an aqueous phase, at least one extract of one or more plants as active ingredients, chosen from the group comprising Mimosa tenuiflora, Limnanthes alba, Arnica montana, Calendula officinalis, Harpagophytum procumbens, and Ruscus aculeatus, - Pallantoin and - at least one suitable adjuvant.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises as active ingredients between 0.01 and 50% by weight of at least one extract of one or more plants chosen from the group comprising Mimosa tenuiflora, Limnanthes alba, Arnica montana, Calendula officinalis, Harpagophytum procumbens, and Ruscus aculeatus. Even more preferentially, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises as active ingredients between 0.01 and 5% by weight of at least one extract of one or more plants chosen from the group comprising Mimosa tenuiflora, Limnanthes alba, Arnica montana, Calendula officinalis, Harpagophytum procumbens, and Ruscus aculeatus.

Furthermore, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase representing from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 60 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises allantoin. Allantoin is a nitrogenous chemical compound of organic or vegetable origin. It can be extracted from the mucus of some gastropods or even from the roots of comfrey and cereal seeds. Preferably, the composition comprises at least 0.1% allantoin.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one adjuvant selected from sequestering agents, antioxidants, sunscreens, preservatives, fillers, dyes, perfumes, essential oils, cosmetic active agents, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, self-tanning compounds, soothing and protective agents for the skin, or mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may further contain at least one pro-penetrating agent and / or humectant, selected from the group comprising propylene glycol, glycerin or sorbitol.

In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention consists of:

Water 68.9239%

Limnanthes alba 2.0000%

Arnica montana 0.2000%

Mimosa tenuiflora 0.6000%

Calendula officinalis 0.2000%

Harpagophytum procumbens 0.2000%

Ruscus aculeatus 0.2000%

Glycerine 5.5440% cetearyl isononanoate 4.0000%

Dicaprylyl carbonate 4.0000% cetearyl ethylhexanoate 3.0000% cetearyl alcohol 2.5000%

Glycerine Stearate 2.2000%

Isopropyl myristate 2.0000%

Propylene glycol 1.8940% potassium cetyl phosphate 0.8000%

Levulinic acid 0.4050%

Carbonière 0.3800%

Chlorphenesin 0.2800%

Allantoin 0.2000%

Sodium hydroxide 0.1956% Sodium levulinate 0.0900% O-cymen-5-ol 0.0800%

Citric acid 0.0280%

Potassium sorbate 0.0240%

Tetrasodium glutamate-diacetate 0.0235%

Sorbitol 0.0040%,% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms normally used for topical application, especially in the form of a cream, an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion. , a multiple emulsion, a solution, a suspension, a powder, an aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solution, an aqueous or oily gel, a liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous product , an oil dispersion in an aqueous phase using spherules (nanospheres, nanocapsules, lipid vesicles), a transdermal device or in any other form for topical application.

In emulsions, either in "water-in-oil" or in "oil-in-water" form, the direction of the emulsion is generally conferred by the emulsifying agent used.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used effectively with a prolonged effect in a method for preventing and / or improving the signs of skin aging, wherein said composition is applied on the skin.

As shown in Examples 3 and 4 (FIG 5), the effects of the composition according to the invention to prevent and / or improve the signs of skin aging are visible and effective after application of the composition in the form of a cream. These visible effects include protective effects related to anti-free radical properties and repair effects of skin damage.

The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic composition comprising: an aqueous phase, - at least one extract of one or more plants as active ingredients, chosen from the group comprising Mimosa tenuiflora, Limnanthes alba, Arnica montana, Calendula officinalis, Harpagophytum procumbens, and Ruscus aculeatus, - allantoin and - at least one appropriate adjunct, for topical use to protect the skin against free radicals.

In the context of the present invention, free radicals are atoms or molecules that have won or lost an electron such as the superoxide radical (or superoxide anion) and the hydroxyl radical.

Thus, the invention relates to the use of said cosmetic composition for topical use to protect the skin against the superoxide anion and the hydroxyl radical.

As shown in Example 1, the composition according to the present invention has anti-radica-lar properties quite remarkable vis-à-vis the superoxide and hydroxyl radical.

On the other hand, a composition comprising: - an aqueous phase, - at least one extract of one or more plants as active ingredients, selected from the group comprising Mimosa tenuiflora, Limnanthes alba, Arnica montana, Calendula officinalis , Harpagophytum procumbens, and Ruscus aculeatus, - allantoin and - at least one suitable adjuvant, can also be used to improve and / or promote skin repair, by topical application of said composition.

According to another object, the present invention relates to a method of manufacturing said cosmetic composition comprising the following steps: a) preparing an aqueous solution of allantoin at least 0.1%; b) mixing said aqueous allantoin solution with an extract of one or more plants as active ingredients, said plants being selected from the group consisting of Mimosa tenuiflora, Limnanthes alba, Arnica montana, Calendula officinalis, Harpagophytum procumbens and Ruscus aculeatus, and c) adding to the mixture b) at least one suitable adjuvant.

According to the present invention, the cosmetic composition comprises adjuvants chosen from the group comprising pro-penetrating agents, and / or humectants (such as propylene glycol, glycerin or sorbitol).

The cosmetic composition may also comprise the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field chosen from the group comprising stabilizers, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, chelating agents, odor absorbers, chemical filters or minerals, inorganic pigments, surfactants, polymers, silicone oils, colorants, emulsifiers, thickeners, gelling agents, water binders and spreading agents.

[0035] Advantageously, the content of the extract is between 0.01% and 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% and 10% by weight, even more preferably between 0.1% and 10% by weight. weight, even more preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a kit in the form of a container such as an ampoule or a bottle containing the cosmetic composition as described above.

The invention will now be illustrated by way of non-limiting example by the following Examples 1 to 4:

Examples

Example 1

Measurement of the anti-radical activity of the cosmetic composition The reference products, mannitol and superoxide dismutase (SOD), were supplied by SIGMA.

The cosmetic composition, the reference molecules and the reagents used were prepared in ultrapure water (Milli Q). The measurement of the anti-radical activity was carried out by the electron paramagnetic resonance spectrometry technique (ROSEN GM, HALPERN HJ, Spin trapping biologically generated free radicals: correlating formation with cellular injury, Methods in Enzymology, 1990; 186, 611-621).

In this method, the spin states of the single electrons of the molecules, in particular in free radicals, are characterized. In practice, free radicals are produced in the apparatus; a probe molecule called spin trap resonates in their presence and the corresponding signal is analyzed. A trapping molecule of radicals decreases the spin trap signal. RPE measurements were performed with a Brucker ECS 106 spectrometer at room temperature. The spin trap used was 5.5 dimethyl-1-pyrroline-1-oxide (DMPO).

The superoxide anion was produced by the enzymatic system xanthine / xanthine oxidase. The product was dissolved in ultra pure water at various concentrations. A blank without product was produced in parallel. SOD at 400 IU / ml was tested for reference (positive control).

The hydroxyl radical was produced by photolysis (UVB) of hydrogen peroxide in aqueous solution. The product was dissolved in ultrapure water at various concentrations. A blank without product was produced in parallel. Mannitol at 10 mM (ie 0.182 mg / ml) was tested for reference (positive control).

The intensities of the RPE signal were calculated by double integration of the lower field line. The percentages of protection of the product under test were obtained from the values of the controls without product under test.

% Protection = (Sproduit - Stémoin) / (So - Stémoin) X100 [0044] Sproduit: integration of the RPE signal obtained with the product test or reference [0045] Stémoin: integration of the RPF signal, obtained with the control [0046] So: integration of the RPE signal obtained in the absence of free radicals

Evaluation of the anti-radical effect of the cosmetic composition by paramagnetic resonance spectrometry of the electron.

SOD and mannitol were chosen as reference molecules for the validation of the test on superoxide radicals and hydroxyl radicals respectively.

[0048] Effect on the superoxide radical.

In the presence of SOD at 400 IU / ml, the RPE signal of the superoxide anion is zero (FIG 1).

The scavenging effect is maximal (100%, Table 1, Fig. 3). This effect validates the test.

Table 1: [0051]

RPE signal

Product Concentration (%, w / v)% Control% Free Radical Control Control - 2,400,000 100 0

Comp. 0.1 1 970 000 82 18 Cosmetic 0.25 1 250 000 52 48 0.62 1 010 000 42 58 2.5 636 000 26 74 5 0 0 100 SOD 400 IU / ml 0 0 100 [0052] The control corresponds to the basal mixture contained in all the samples and used for the measurement is xanthine (10 mM) + xanthine oxidase (0.8U / ml) + DMPO 50% (v / v).

The cosmetic composition, tested at 0.1% (w / v), has no effect on the RPE signal of the superoxide radical. At 0.25 and 0.62% (w / v), it inhibits the RPE signal by 48% and 58% respectively. The latter is totally inhibited at 5% (w / v). Effect on the hydroxyl radical.

In the presence of mannitol at 10 mM (ie 0.182%, w / v), the RPE signal of the oxide radical was strongly decreased (FIG 2); the trapping activity amounts to 93% (Table 2, Fig. 4). This effect validates the test.

Table 2: [0055]

RPE signal

Product Concentration (%, w / v)% Control% Free Radical Control Control - 7,460,000 100 0

Comp. 0.03 7 200 000 96 4 Cosmetics 0.33 3 700 000 50 50 1.6 247 000 3 97 16.6 0 0 100

Mannitol 2 (10mM) 294,000 The control corresponds to the basal mixture contained in all the samples and used for the RPE is the H202 mixture (1/50, v / v) + 800 mM DMPO in water.

The cosmetic composition, tested at 0.03% (w / v), has no effect on the RPE signal of the hydroxyl radical. At 0.33% (w / v), it inhibits the signal by 50%. At 1.6 and 16.6% (w / v), the cosmetic composition inhibits the signal by 97% and 100% respectively.

The reactive metabolites of oxygen, such as superoxide anion, hydroxyl radical, hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and singlet oxygen are responsible for toxic reactions for the body. Produced by the body itself or by external aggressions, they degrade sugars, proteins, lipids and nucleic acids. The short life of the radicals, about 10-11 seconds for the hydroxyl radical limits the detection capacity of these chemical species.

Radicals such as the superoxide anion and the hydroxyl radical are evidenced by the electron paramagnetic resonance spectrometry technique. A "spin trap" like DMPO resonates in the presence of free radicals and stabilizes them in the form of complexes having a characteristic spectrum. The scavenging effect of the product is directly evidenced by a decrease in the intensity of the signal emitted by the spin trap.

Advantageously, the Applicant has demonstrated that the cosmetic composition decreases in a dose-dependent manner the RPE signal of the superoxide anion. At the concentration of 5%, the cosmetic composition has the same effect as the SOD at 400 IU / ml, the reference molecule known for its scavenging power of superoxide radicals.

In addition, the cosmetic composition dose-dependently decreases the RPE signal of the hydroxyl radical. At the concentration of 1.6%, this effect is equivalent to that obtained with 2% mannitol, the reference molecule known for its ability to scavenge hydroxyl radicals.

Thus, the cosmetic composition has anti-radical effects vis-à-vis the superoxide anion and the hydroxyl radical.

EXAMPLE 2 Preparation Protocol for the Cosmetic Composition According to the Invention: Preparation of a 0.2% allantoin solution in demineralized water in a tank heated to 80.degree. - Between 50 and 60 ° C, addition of chlorphénésine at 0.28% (% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition) in the open tank and stirring for 10 minutes - Addition of propylene glycol at 1-2% - Add to mixing in the tank an emulsion of meadow oil (Limnanthes alba) heated to 80 ° C in the presence of various adjuvants in 0.3% NaOH solution. The mixture is cooled to 30 ° C. before adding an extract of several plants in hydroglycerin comprising extracts of Mimosa tenuiflora 6%, Arnica Montana 2%, harpagophytum 2%, calendula 2%, of Ruscus 2%. - The mixture is finally cooled to 25 ° C.

In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises: [0061]

Non INCI mixed Quantity (% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition)

Water 68.9239

Limnanthes alba 2.0000

Arnica montana 0.2000

Mimosa tenuiflora 0.6000

Calendula officinalis 0.2000

Harpagophytum procumbens 0.2000

Ruscus aculeatus 0.2000

Glycerine 5.5440 Cetearyl isononanoate 4.0000

Dicaprylyl carbonate 4.0000 Cetearyl ethylhexanoate 3.0000 Cetearyl alcohol 2.5000

Glycerine stearate 2.2000

Isopropyl myristate 2.0000

Propylene glycol 1.8940 Cetyl potassium phosphate 0.8000

Levulinic acid 0.4050

Carboniere 0.3800

Chlorphenesin 0.2800

Allantoin 0.2000

Sodium hydroxide 0.1956 Sodium levulinate 0.0900 O-cymen-5-ol 0.0800

Citric acid 0.0280

Potassium sorbate 0.0240

Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.0235

Sorbitol 0.0040

Total% 100%

Example 3

Effectiveness of the cosmetic composition At the beginning of the study, each volunteer received a sample to be tested and the methods of use: application morning and evening on the face, neck and décolleté, apply to the cleansed skin, clean and dry, making movements from the lower face upwards; by emphasizing the wrinkles of the crow's feet and under palpebral; by penetrating by massage. Each volunteer used the cosmetic composition of the invention in cream form to replace their usual care cream for 28 days.

During the course of the study, each subject was asked not to change their habits and cosmetic products, to not intentionally expose themselves to the sun or to perform UV sessions and not to practice care in the Institute.

At the end of the study, the volunteer brought back his product and he evaluated the cosmetic qualities of the product studied.

To evaluate the subjective efficacy of the anti-aging product, at the beginning (J1) and at the end of the study (D28), the dermatologist noted the following characteristics: - Anti-wrinkle potential: from 0 to 6 (according to the BAZIN Atlas scale) - Remodeling potential: from 0 to 5 (according to the BAZIN Atlas scale) - Smoothing potential: from 0 to 5 (according to the BAZIN Atlas scale) - Complexion radiance according to the CLCT method:

Color of complexion: Pink-red (from 1 to 10), olive (from 1 to 10), beige (from 1 to 10) and light pink (from 1 to 10) according to a color chart.

Claims (12)

Luminosity of the complexion: (O = not luminous dyed 9 = luminous complexion) Clarity of the complexion: (O = not clear dyed 9 = fair complexion) Transparency of the complexion: (O = not transparent dyed 9 = transparent complexion) Texture of the skin: Roughness: (O = rough skin 9 = smooth skin) Softness: (O = not soft skin 9 = soft skin) Hydration: (O = dry skin 9 = skin hydrated) - Uniformity of the complexion: score assigned to a brown spot based SKIN color chart [0065] To evaluate the effectiveness of the product, at the beginning (J 1) and at the end of the study (D28), the volunteer noted the following items from 0 to 9: - Smooth skin: (O = rough skin 9 = smooth skin) - Wrinkles and fine lines: (O = many wrinkles, 9 = no wrinkles) - Skin firmness: (O = skin not firm, 9 = firm skin) Results [0066] The evaluation of the subjective efficacy by the dermatologist showed a statistically significant improvement of the following characteristics: - radiance of the complexion according to the CLCT method: color of the skin nt: olive (decrease of 12.70%) Beige (decrease of 18.32%) light pink (increase of 47.62%) Brightness of the complexion: 46.15% Clarity of the complexion: 40.68% Texture of the skin : Roughness (90.48%) Softness (90.48%) Hydration (33.60%) - Anti-wrinkle potential: 11.48% - Reshaping potential: 13.04% - Smoothing potential: 15.38% [0067] In addition, an improvement in the color of the complexion "Rose / Red" (decrease of 3.70%) and "Transparency" (9.09%) was observed in this study. This allowed to highlight an anti-aging effect of the product. Example 4 Effectiveness of the cosmetic composition on fine lines [0068] A volunteer received the cosmetic composition according to the invention and its protocol of use: application morning and evening on the face, neck and décolleté, to apply on the cleaned skin clean and dry, making movements from the lower face upwards; by emphasizing the wrinkles of the crow's feet and under palpebral; by penetrating by massage. The volunteer has used the cosmetic composition of the invention in the form of cream to replace its usual care cream for 5 months. The photos of fig. 5 show the appearance of fine lines after 3 months and 5 months of use of the cream. They show in particular a progressive attenuation of the wrinkles of the lower eyelid and a clear improvement of the skin texture. These are the visible consequences of the tissue regenerating and rehydrating effect of the cosmetic composition according to the invention. claims A cosmetic composition comprising: an aqueous phase, at least one extract of one or more plants as active ingredients, selected from the group consisting of Mimosa tenuiflora, Limnanthes alba, Arnica montana, Calendula officinalis, Harpagophytum procumbens, and Ruscus aculeatus, - allantoin and - at least one appropriate adjuvant. 2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, containing as active ingredients between 0.01 and 50% by weight of at least one extract of one or more plants selected from the group consisting of Mimosa tenuiflora, Limnanthes alba, Arnica montana, Calendula. officinalis, Harpagophytum procumbens, and Ruscus aculeatus. 3. The cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, further containing at least one pro-penetrating agent and / or humectant, selected from the group comprising propylene glycol, glycerin or sorbitol. 4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous phase represents from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 60 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. The cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said adjuvant is selected from sequestering agents, antioxidants, sunscreens, preservatives, fillers, dyes, perfumes, essential oils, cosmetic active ingredients. , moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, self-tanning compounds, soothing and protective agents for the skin, or mixtures thereof. 6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, provided in the form of cream, oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, solution, suspension or powder. 7. A method for preventing and / or improving the signs of skin aging, wherein the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 is applied to the skin. 8. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, for topical use to protect the skin against free radicals. 9. Composition comprising: - an aqueous phase, - at least one extract of one or more plants as active ingredients, chosen from the group comprising Mimosa tenuiflora, Limnanthes aiba, Arnica montana, Calendula officinalis, Harpagophytum procumbens, and Ruscus aculeatus. - allantoin and - at least one appropriate adjuvant. The composition of claim 8, for use in improving and / or promoting skin repair, comprising topically applying the composition of claim 8. 11. A method of manufacturing the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 or the composition of claim 8 comprising the following steps: a) preparing an aqueous solution of allantoin at least 0.1%; b) mixing said aqueous allantoin solution with an extract of one or more plants as active ingredients, said plants being selected from the group consisting of Mimosa tenuiflora, Limnanthes alba, Arnica montana, Calendula officinalis, Harpagophytum procumbens and Ruscus aculeatus, and c) adding to the mixture b) at least one suitable adjuvant. 12. Kit comprising the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 or the composition according to claim 9.