FR2968955A1 - Composition, useful for the non-therapeutic treatment or make-up of keratin materials, comprises, in a medium containing water, ascorbic acid, a chelant having phosphonic acid group, metabisulfite and peroxide decomposer compound - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprises, in a medium containing water: (a) ascorbic acid; (b) a chelant having phosphonic acid group, or its salt; (c) metabisulfite; and (d) a peroxide decomposer compound comprising ferment of thermus thermophilus, ethylbisiminomethylguaicol manganese chloride, and a mixture of superoxide dismutase and glutathione. ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising ascorbic acid and a particular mixture of antioxidants as well as a process for treating or making up keratin materials. It is known to introduce into cosmetic compositions various active agents intended to provide specific treatments for the skin and / or the hair. However, some of these active agents have the drawback of being unstable in an aqueous medium and of easily degrading in contact with water, in particular because of oxidation phenomena. They lose their activity quickly over time and this instability runs counter to the desired efficiency.

It has long been sought to formulate ascorbic acid or vitamin C, because of its many beneficial properties. In particular, ascorbic acid stimulates the synthesis of connective tissue and especially collagen, strengthens the skin's defenses against external aggressions such as ultraviolet radiation and hair, compensates for the vitamin E deficiency of the skin, depigments skin and has an anti-free radical function. These last two properties make it an excellent candidate as a cosmetic or dermatological active agent to fight against the aging of the skin or to prevent it. Unfortunately, ascorbic acid is very sensitive to certain parameters of the environment and in particular to oxidation phenomena. It can oxidize rapidly to dehydroascorbic acid, a highly unstable chemical entity that decays due to its chemical structure (alpha, beta bis-ketolactone). It follows therefore a rapid degradation of ascorbic acid formulated in the presence of these parameters, and more particularly in the presence of oxygen, light, metal ions, depending on the temperature, or in certain pH conditions. (Pharm Acta.

Helv., 1969, 44, 611-667; STP Pharma, 1985, 4, 281-286). This degradation is manifested in particular by the appearance of a color in the composition that can gradually change from yellow to orange then brown, making the composition unacceptable to the user.

Several solutions have therefore been envisaged in the prior art for decreasing and / or delaying the degradation of ascorbic acid.

One of the solutions described in application EP-A-0913147 is to associate with ascorbic acid a phosphonic acid group chelator and a metabisulfite to obtain a significant improvement in the stability of ascorbic acid in aqueous medium. However, despite this improvement in stability, it has been found that such a composition has the disadvantage of yellowing after storage for at least 2 months at room temperature (25 ° C.). This yellowing of the composition makes it attractive to consumers and hinders the marketing of such a composition.

The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a composition comprising ascorbic acid in aqueous medium having improved stability and having a slight variation in the color of the composition after storage for 2 months at room temperature.

In this regard the Applicant has surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the stability of such a composition is improved by combining with ascorbic acid, a phosphonic acid group chelator, a metabisulfite and a peroxide decomposer as described below. . Such a composition has a very slight variation of the initial color after storage.

More specifically, the invention therefore relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium containing water, a) ascorbic acid, and b) a phosphonic acid group chelator, or one its salts c) a metabisulphite; d) a peroxide decomposer compound selected from a thermus thermophillus ferment, ethylbisiminomethylguaicol manganese chloride, a Superoxide Dismutase and glutathione melt. The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for the non-therapeutic treatment or make-up of keratin materials such as the skin, the hair, the hairs, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails of a human being, including the application of on keratin materials of a composition as described above. The composition according to the invention comprises ascorbic acid which may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 3% to 6% by weight. weight. The phosphonic acid group-containing chelator may in particular be chosen from ethylenediamine tetra (methylene phosphonic acid), hexamethylenediamine tetra (methylenephosphonic acid), diethylenetriamine penta (methylenephosphonic acid), and salts thereof, and especially their salts. sodium such as the pentasodium salt of ethylenediamine tetra (methylene phosphonic acid).

Advantageously, use is made of ethylenediamine tetra (methylene phosphonic acid), in particular that sold by THERMPHOS under the name Dequest 2041. It is also possible to use preferably the pentasodium salt thereof, sold under the name Dequest 2046. by THERMPHOS Company.

The phosphonic acid-containing chelator or one of its salts may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.005 to 5% and, preferably, from 0.01 to 2% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition.

Metabisulfite may be an alkaline, alkaline earth or ammonium salt of anhydrosulphurous acid. Sodium or potassium metabisulfite is preferably used.

The metabisulfite may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.005 to 2% and, preferably, from 0.05 to 1% of the total weight of the composition. The expression "peroxide decomposing compound" is intended to mean a compound capable of decomposing a peroxide function of the ROOH type to non-free radical species according to the following reaction: 2 ROOH + decomposer peroxide - 2 R-OH + O 2 (no radical species is generated or activated oxygen) The peroxide decomposer activity can be determined using the catalysis activity test described hereinafter before the examples. The peroxide decomposer is chosen from: the ferment of thermus thermophillus, such as that sold under the name Venuceane® by Sederma, ethylbisiminomethylguaicol manganese chloride, sold in particular under the name EUK-134 by the company Unipex; Super oxide dismutase. Superoxide dismutases SOD are enzymes capable of inducing the disproportionation of superoxide ions, according to the reaction: 2 O ° -2 + 2 H + - * H2O2 + 02 SODs act against oxygen free radicals. O2 superoxide ion (active oxygen) is a radical ion whose instability and reactivity make it a toxic compound, because it generates, especially in the presence of metal ions, hydroxyl free radicals (° OH) highly harmful. Superoxide dismutases exert a protective effect, in particular by trapping superoxide ions and thus constitute a biological defense system against the harmful effects of free oxygen radicals.

SOD enzymes, which are metalloproteins whose metallic constituent is iron, manganese, copper and / or zinc, can be of various origins. SODs of plant origin (for example extracted from melon, fungi, algae, spinach, wheat, etc.) or extracted from microorganisms (bacteria or yeasts) may especially be mentioned.

Preferably, a SOD of vegetable origin will be used.

According to a preferred embodiment, the mixture of SOD and glutathione is present in a melon extract, such as the melon extract sold under the name EXTRAMEL® C by the company Seppic. The SOD used according to the invention can be characterized by activity ranging from 100 to 10,000 enzymatic units per milligram (U / mg) of dry matter (M.S), and in particular from 300 to 800 U / mg of MS. The enzymatic unit of SOD is defined by Mc Cord and Fridovitch, J. Biol. Chem. 244, 6049 (1969).

Advantageously, the peroxide decomposer is a thermophilic thermophilic ferment. The peroxide decomposer compound described above may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 15 × 10 -6% to 0.075% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 15 × 10 -5% to 0.005% by weight. Advantageously, the composition comprises an aqueous phase having a pH ranging from 5 to 7.5.

The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. In particular the composition is suitable for topical application to the skin. The physiologically acceptable medium is in particular a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say without odor, color or unpleasant appearance, and which does not generate punctuation, tugging or redness unacceptable to the user.

By physiologically acceptable medium, an environment compatible with keratin materials of human beings such as the skin, the mucous membranes, the nails, the scalp and / or the hair is understood.

The composition used according to the invention may be intended for a cosmetic application. It can be used for the care or makeup of keratin materials.

The composition according to the invention comprises water which may be present in a content ranging from 5% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 35% to 75% by weight. weight. The composition may further comprise a water-miscible polyol at room temperature (25 ° C.), chosen in particular from polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as the mono, di or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, the mono, di or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers; ; and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a water-miscible polyol at room temperature in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 3% to 15% by weight. % in weight.

The composition may include an oil. The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.).

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squafan, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the Dynamit Nobel company, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR2 and R'OR2 in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate or ethyl-2- palmitate. hexyl, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631); linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups. The oil may be present in a content ranging from 5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 10 to 30% by weight.

The composition may also comprise a cosmetic additive chosen in particular from fillers, surfactants, cosmetic or dermatological active agents, UV filters, film-forming polymers, gelling agents, preservatives, perfumes, and pigments.

Of course those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compounds according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition considered.

The composition used according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields; it may be especially in the form of an aqueous solution, hydroalcoholic, optionally gelled, a dispersion of the lotion type possibly two-phase, an oil-water or water-in-oil emulsion or multiple, an aqueous gel, an oil dispersion in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules possibly being polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or, better still, lipidic vesicles of ionic and / or non-ionic type. ionic. Advantageously, the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion. When the composition is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to total weight of the composition. The oils and emulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration. The emulsifier is present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

This composition may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a mousse . It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick.

The following examples illustrate the invention.

Test for to identify a peroxide decomposer activity:

To determine whether a compound has a peroxide decomposer activity, it is determined whether the compound has catalase activity according to the following protocol.

Catalase, in the presence of hydrogen peroxide, and methanol, produces formaldehyde, the latter reacts with Purpald. The product of the reaction is oxidized by potassium periodate to a colored product whose absorbance is measured at 550 nm.

Reagents: - 0.25 M phosphate buffer - pH 7.0 (starting from a solution of K2PO4, adjusted pH with 1N sodium hydroxide solution) - catalase solutions (to make a calibration curve): according to the batch of Catalase enzyme received (activity expressed in EU / mg enzyme), make standard solutions such as the activity be 1 to 15 EU / ml solution. use 0.025M phosphate buffer to make dilutions - Purpald solution: weigh 66.7 mg of Purpald in 20mL of 2N KOH - periodate solution of potassium: weigh 0.15g of periodate in 10m1 of 0.5N KOH

Stock solution of the test compound: 0.05 g in 100 ml of 0.025 M phosphate buffer Dilution of the stock solution 1/5 in 0.025 M phosphate buffer: 100 ppm

Procedure: In a 96-well plate:

Calibration curve: 25 μl of 0.25 M phosphate buffer 20 μl of 0.025 M phosphate buffer pH 7.0 10 μl of 0.025 M buffer pH 7.0 50 μl of catalase solution (varying concentrations) or 0.025 M buffer pH 7.0 ("zero" point) Incubate with shaking for 20 minutes at 25 ° C 50 μl Purpald Incubate with shaking for 10 minutes at 25 ° C Add 25 μl of potassium periodate. Homogenize.

150 μl of supernatant are removed and the absorbance is measured at 550 nm using a spectrophotometer. Plot the calibration curve by referring to: the X axis: Catalase activity (in EU / ml) the Y axis: OD at 550 nm measured for each catalase solution according to the concentration tested.

Tests: 25 μl of 0.25 M phosphate buffer pH 7.0 25 μl of methanol 10 μl of oxygenated water 0.15% 50 μl of solution containing the test compound Incubate with stirring 20 minutes at 25 ° C 50 μl of Purpald Incubate with shaking for 10 minutes at 25 ° C Add 25 μl of potassium periodate. Homogenize.

150 μl of supernatant are removed and the absorbance is measured at 550 nm using a spectrophotometer. Postpone the OD on the calibration curve to deduce the possible catalase-like activity of the tested active. The test compound is considered to be a peroxide decomposer when the test solution containing said compound reaches an activity of at least 1 EU / ml. Comparative Example 1: 8 solutions (S2 to S9) of ascorbic acid placed in the presence of iron (III) traces were prepared in a pH 5 buffered hydroalcoholic medium in headspace flasks. A solution (Si) of ascorbic acid containing no iron was also prepared. The flasks were vortexed and put in an oven at 45 ° C for 48 hours. Then, the optical densities were read at 410 nm at the Varian Cary 4000 spectrophotometer at room temperature to measure the variation in the color intensity of the tested solution. For each solution S2 to S8, the percentage of the test solution was then calculated. inhibition of the intensity of the color, (which reflects the stabilizing power on the ascorbic acid of the ingredients put in the presence) according to the following relation:% inhibition (Si) = [Abs (Si) - Abs (Si)]! [Abs (S9) - Abs (S1)] / 100 Abs (Si) = absorbance of the solution Si

To carry out this test, the following solutions were prepared: buffer solution at pH5: preparation of a solution of citric acid at 0.1M in water = solution A preparation of a solution of Na2HPO4 at 0.2M in water = solution B Buffer solution = mixture of 48.5 ml of solution A + 51.5 ml of solution B - solvent (S): 90% MeOH + 10% buffer solution pH5 (v / v)

- solution of 0.8 g ascorbic acid in 100 ml of solvent S

ferric solution of 0.338 g (FeCl 3, 6H 2 O) in 100 ml of water (ie a solution of 12.5 mM)

- 1% antioxidant solutions (1 g of antioxidant in 100 ml of water). Then 9 solutions described in the table below (amount in μl of solution) were prepared.

The following results were obtained (with thermus thermophillus ferment): solutions in SiS S9 S2 S3 S4 S5 S6 S7 S8 Ascorbic acid 5000 5000 5000 5000 5000 5000 5000 5000 5000 Dequest 2046 (1) 1500 1500 1500 1500 Venucean (2) 1000 1000 1000 1000 Metabisulfite of 1000 1000 1000 1000 sodium FeCI3, 6 H20 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Buffer pH 5 5000 4900 1400 2400 2400 2900 3400 3900 3900 total in pl 10000 10000 10000 10000 10000 10000 10000 10000 10000 Absorbance at 0.454 1.006 0.166 0.566 0.242 0.259 0.729 1.052 0.355 410 nm% inhibition - 52.14 20.32 - 38.51 - 35.43 49.77 108.33 -17.93 30 (1) Pentasodium salt of the acid ethylene diamine tetra (methylene phosphonic) (2) Ferment of thermus thermophillus, from Sederma The results obtained show that the solution S2 containing the combination Dequest 2046, Venucean, sodium metabisulfite allows an inhibition of 52.14% which exceeds addition of effects observed separately from each ingredient taken alone (S6, S7, S8) or associated pairs (S3, S4, S5). The antioxidant action was also evaluated with the other peroxide decomposers (ethylbisiminomethylguaicol manganese chloride EUK-134 by the company Unipex, SOD + glutathione EXTRAMEL® C melon extract by the company Seppic). Solutions respectively S10, S11. The following results were obtained: Pl S9 solution S2 S10 S10 S11 Ascorbic acid 5000 5000 5000 5000 5000 Dequest 2046 (1) 1500 1500 1500 Metabisulfite Na 1000 1000 1000 Venucean (2) 1000 Extramel C (3) 1000 Euk-134 ( 4) 1000 FeCl3, 6H20 100 100 100 100 MeOH / Sol pH5 5000 4900 1400 1400 1400 total in pl 10000 10000 10000 10000 10000 Absorbance at 0.317 0.548 0.080 0.096 0.082 410 nm% inhibition -65.23% -58.44% -64.37 % (3) ethylbisiminomethylguaicol manganese chloride - company Unipex 15 (4) SOD + glutathione EXTRAMEL® C melon extract - company Seppic

The results obtained show that: a) the solution S10 containing the combination Dequest 2046, Extramel C, sodium metabisulfite allows a 58.44% inhibition b) the solution S11 containing the combination Dequest 2046, EUK-134, Metabisulfite sodium allows inhibition of 64.37%. EXAMPLE 2 A facial care cream having the following composition was prepared, the contents being expressed in percentages by weight: 11 glycerin 12% propylene glycol 5% Preservatives qs Ascorbic acid 5% Sodium hydroxide 1.8% Citric acid 1, 24 Pentasodium salt of ethylenediamine 0.15% tetra (methylenephosphonic acid) (Dequest® 2046 from Thermphos) Ferment of thermus thermophillus (Venuceane® from Sederma) 0.1 Sodium metabisulfite 0.1 Dimethicone copolyol mixture, cyclopentasiloxane and water (10/88/2) (DC 5225C Dow Corning) Cycloptensiloxane Water qs 100% Example 3: A facial care cream having the following composition was prepared the contents being expressed in percent by weight : Ascorbic acid 5% Citric acid 1.24% Pentasodium salt of ethylenediamine 0.15% tetra (methylene phosphonic acid) (Dequest® 2046 from Thermphos) Ferment of thermus thermophillus 0.1 (Venuceane® from Sederma ) Sodium metabisulphite 0.1 Neutralized 0.7 partially ammoniated polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid (Hostacerin AMPS® from Clariant) hydroxyethyl cellulose (NATROSOL 250 HHR from Aqualon) 1% Methyl glucose sesquistearate, oxyethylenated 3% (Glucamate SSE 20 from Noveon) blend poly dimethylsiloxane alpha-omega dihydroxyl / cyclopenta dimethylsiloxane (14.7 / 85.3) (Dow Corning 1501 FL from Dow Corning) 7.5% Cyclohexasiloxane 6.5 0/0 Apricot kernel oil 0/0 Cetyl Alcohol 0.5% Stearyl Alcohol 0.5% Octyldodecanol 40% Tocopherol Acetate 0.25% Microspheres Copolymer Vinylidene Chloride / Acrylonitrile / Methyl Methacrylate Expanded isobutane (EXPANCEL 551 DE 40 D42 from Expancel) 0.25 0/0 Preservatives qs Water qs 100 0/0 Example 4: A facial care lotion having the following composition was prepared, the contents being expressed as a weight percentage : Acid a scorbic acid 9.9% Citric acid 1.24 0/0 Pentasodium salt of ethylenediamine tetra (methylene phosphonic acid) (Dequest® 2046 from Thermphos) 0.15 Ferment of thermus thermophillus 25 (Venuceane® from Sederma) 0 Sodium metabisulfite 0.1 Dipropylene glycol 24.5 Butylene glycol Triethyl citrate 6 0/0 Ethanol 12% Water qs 100% The composition according to the invention applied daily to the face makes it possible to combat the signs of aging. skin.

Claims (13)

REVENDICATIONS1. A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium containing water, a) ascorbic acid, and b) a phosphonic acid group chelator, or a salt thereof; c) a metabisulfite; d) a peroxide decomposer compound selected from a thermus thermophillus ferment, ethylbisiminomethylguaicol manganese chloride, a mixture of Superoxide Dismutase and glutathione. 2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the ascorbic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 3 to 6% by weight. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the phosphonic acid group chelator is selected from ethylenediamine tetra (methylene phosphonic acid), hexamethylenediamine tetra (methylene phosphonic acid), diethylenetriamine acid penta (methylenephosphonic), and their salts. 20 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the phosphonic acid group chelator is the pentasodium salt of ethylenediamine tetra (methylene phosphonic acid). 25 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the phosphonic acid-containing chelator is present in a content ranging from 0.005 to 5% and, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.01 to 2% by weight. 30 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the metabisulfite is sodium metabisulfite. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the metabisulfite is present in a content ranging from 0.005 to 2% and, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.05 to 1% by weight. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the peroxide decomposer is a ferment of thermus thermophillus. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the peroxide decomposer is in a content ranging from 15 x 10-6% to 0.075% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and preferably 15x10-5% to 0.005% by weight. 4010. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water is present in a content ranging from 5% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from % to 75% by weight. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an oil. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. 13. Cosmetic process for the non-therapeutic treatment or makeup of keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims. 15