CA2145860A1

CA2145860A1 - Hair treatment preparations

Info

Publication number: CA2145860A1
Application number: CA002145860A
Authority: CA
Inventors: Kurt Seidel; Reinhard Mueller; Detlef Hollenberg; Anke Kaczich
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 1992-09-29
Filing date: 1993-06-24
Publication date: 1994-04-14
Also published as: DE4232506A1; ATE147617T1; DE59305172D1; EP0662815A1; CN1089135A; ES2096929T3; EP0662815B1; WO1994007456A1; SI9300481A

Abstract

Excellent wet and dry combability is obtained by treating hair with water-based preparations containing (A) alkoxylated wool wax alcohols, (B) esters of glycerol with saturated or unsaturated C10-22 fatty acids and (C) esters of sorbitan with saturated or unsaturated C10-22 fatty acids and/or alkoxylated analogs thereof.
In the case of colored hair, a strong levelling effect is also obtained with little change in color.

Description

, ~ H 269 PCT / 26.05.1993 2i ~ 5 8 6 ~
.. . ~ .
Hair tr~A- preparations This invention relates to hair treatment preparations cont~n;ng a special combination of active ingredients.
The washing and care of hair is an important part of personal hygiene. Both the washing of hair with shampoos and the decorative f;n;sh;ng of hair styles, for example by coloring or permanent waving, are measures which affect the natural structure and properties of hair. For example, the wet and dry comhAh;l;ty of hair, its hold and its body can be adversely affected or the number of split ends can be increased by such measures. In addition, the uniform distribution of dyes applied with hair coloring preparations can often be problematical, particularly on hair which has been seriously damaged.
Accordingly, it has long been standard practice to subject the hair to a special aftertreatment. To this end, the hair is treated, normally by rinsing, with special active substances, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers. Combability, hold and body are improved and the number of split ends are reduced by this treatment, depending on the formulation of the preparation used.
In addition, so-called composite preparations have recently been developed to reduce the effort involved in standard multistep processes, particularly where the preparations are directly applied by the user.
In addition to the usual components, for example for cleaning hair, these composite preparations also contain active substances which had previously been reserved for hair aftertreatment preparations. The consumer is thus involved in one less step. At the same time, packaging costs are reduced because one product less is used.
The active substances available both for separate aftertreatment preparations and for composite preparations are unable as yet to satisfy every consumer requirement. More particu-larly, the search still goes on for active substances and combina-tions thereof which combine greater effectiveness with ready biodegradability.
It has now surprisingly been found that preparations contA;n;ng a combination of three classes of active substances already known for hair treatment purposes ideally satisfy the requirements mentioned above. Above all, very good wet and dry combability is achieved. In addition, in the case of colored hair, 2145~60 ~ ~ _ '' f a strong levelling effect is obtained with surprisingly little change in color. Finally, readily biodegradable preparations can be formulated with this combination of active substances.
Accordingly, the present invention relates to a water-based hair tr~tm~nt preparation c~ntAining typical cosmetic constituents, characterized in that - alkoxylated wool wax alcohols (A), - esters of glycerol with saturated or lln~atllrated C1022 fatty acids (B) and - esters of sorbitan with saturated or unsaturated C1022 fatty acids (C) and/or alkoxylated analogs thereof are present.
Wool wax alcohols, which are also known as lanolin alcohols, are complex mixtures of sterols and aliphatic alcohols which are obtained from wool wax. The principal constituents of wool wax alcohols are cholesterol, lanosterol and sterols derived therefrom, C1830 n-alcohols, C1626 isoalcohols, ~lk~ne~iols and iso~lk~ne~iols.
The reaction of these mixtures with alkylene oxides, particularly ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, gives the alkoxylated compounds which are known inter alia as emulsifiers, solubilizers, moisturizers and conditioners. These products are normally not uniformly alkoxylated compounds, but instead are characterized by a homolog distribution determined by the particular alkoxylation process applied. The degree of alkoxylation mentioned is always based on the molar starting quantities of wool wax alcohol and alkylene oxide.
Ethoxylated wool wax alcohols are preferred for the purposes of the invention. Degrees of ethoxylation of 1 to 50 and, above all, 2 to 30 are particularly preferred.
The glycerol esters (B) used may be monoesters, diesters and triesters of glycerol with saturated or unsaturated C1022 fatty acids. Preferred fatty acids are lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid and also erucic acid.
Esters with C16 and Cl8 fatty acids are particularly preferred. Esters with unsaturated fatty acids are also particu-larly preferred. In addition, the monoesters are preferred to the diesters and triesters.
A particularly preferred compound (B) is glycerol monooleate.
In addition to the chemically clearly defined compounds 21~60 , ~; .

mentioned above, mixtures of the type formed in the processing of native renewable raw materials, for example fats and oils, may also be used as the glycerol esters. In this case, the acid components of the esters are mixtures of fatty acids corresponding to the natural starting products. Mixtures of monoesters, diesters and triesters, particularly monoesters and diesters, may also be used in accordance with the invention.
The sorbitan esters (C) may be monoesters, sesquiesters, diesters and triesters of sorbitan with saturated or unsaturated ClO
22 fatty acids. In this case, too, preferred fatty acids are lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid and also erucic acid.
Esters with Cl6 and Cl8 fatty acids are particularly preferred. Esters with unsaturated fatty acids are also particu-larly preferred. In addition, the monoesters and sesquiesters are preferred to the diesters and triesters.
Most particularly preferred compounds (C) are sorbitan monooleate and sorbitan sesquioleate.
In addition to the chemically clearly defined compounds mentioned above, mixtures of the type formed in the processing of native renewable raw materials, for example fats and oils, may also be used as the sorbitan esters. In this case, the acid components of the esters are mixtures of fatty acids corresponding to the natural starting products.
Compounds obtainable by reaction of the sorbitan esters (C) mentioned with alkylene oxides, particularly ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, may also be used in accordance with the invention.
These products are normally not individual compounds, but are characterized by a corresponding homolog distribution according to the particular alkoxylation process applied. The degree of alkoxylation mentioned is always based on the molar starting quantities of sorbitan ester and alkylene oxide. According to the invention, ethoxylated sorbitan esters are preferred alkoxylated sorbitan esters. Degrees of ethoxylation of 1 to 80 and, above all, 5 to 40 are particularly preferred.
The preparations according to the invention preferably c~nt~;n the alkoxylated wool wax alcohols (A) in quantities of 0.1 to 5~ by weight, based on the preparation as a whole. The glycerol esters (B) and the sorbitan esters (C) are preferably present in quantities of 0.1 to 3~ by weight and, more preferably, in quanti-ties of 0.1 to 2~ by weight.
Preparations cont~;n;ng a conditioner in addition to the compulsory components (A), (B) and (C) are particularly suitable for the treatment of hair and, in particular, for the aftertreatment of 21~5~&~
I C~

hair.
Examples of suitable hair-conditioning compounds are cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, quaternized and aminofunctional silicone oils, alkyl ami~m; n~s, esterquat3 and phospholipids.
Examples of cationic surfactants suitable for use in the hair treatment preparations according to the invention are, in particular, quaternary ammonium compounds, preferably ammonium halides, especially chloride and bromides, such as alkyl trimethyl ammonium chlorides, dialkyl dimethyl ammonium chlorides and trialkyl methyl ammonium chlorides, for example cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetyl methyl ammonium chloride. Other cationic surfactants suitable for use in accordance with the invention are quaternized protein hydrolyzates.
Cationic polymers may also be used as the hair-conditioning compounds. Suitable cationic polymers typically contain a quater-nary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
20 Preferred cationic polymers are, for example, - quaternized cellulose ethers, - polysiloxanes containing quaternary groups, - dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride polymers, - acrylamide dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride copolymers, - dimethyl aminoethyl methacrylate/vinyl pyrrolidone copoly-mers quaternized with diethyl sulfate, - vinyl pyrrolidone/methoimidazolinium chloride copolymers, - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and the polymers cont~;n;ng quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain known under the names of - Polyquaternium 2, - Polyquaternium 17, - Polyquaternium 18 and - Polyquaternium 27.

Silicone oils suitable for use in accordance with the invention are the commercially available products Q2-7224 (a stabilized trimethyl silyl amodimethicone; a product of Dow Corning), Dow Corning 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (General Electric), SLM-55067 (Wacker) and Abil~-Quat 3270 and 3272 (Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethyl siloxanes, Quaternium-

2 1 ~ 0 80).
Apart from a favourable conditioning effect, alkyl amidoamines, particularly fatty acid ami~n~m; n~, such as the stearyl amidopropyl dimethyl amine commercially available as Tego Amid0 S 18, are distinguished in particular by their ready biode-gradability.
So-called esterquats, such as the dialkyl ammonium methosulfates and methyl hydroxyalkyl~ dialkoyloxyalkyl ammonium methosulfates marketed under the name Stepantex~, are also readily biodegradable.
Finally, natural substances, such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, may also be used as the hair-conditioning compounds.
With the biodegradability of the preparations according to the invention in mind, alkyl ami~o~m~nes, esterquats and phospholipids are preferably used as the hair-conditioning com-pounds. It is particularly preferred to use alkyl amidoamines, The preparations according to the invention preferably have a pH value of 3.5 to 6 and, more preferably, in the range from 4.0 to 5Ø Only in the case of special products, such as hair dyes and permanent wave preparations, may higher pH values be preferred, al-though a pH above 10 should generally not be exceeded.
Virtually any acid suitable for cosmetic purposes may be used to establish this pH value. Edible acids are normally used, particularly if the preparation is not intended for waving. Edible acids are understood to be those acids which are consumed as part of the normal human diet and which have positive effects on the organism. The acids in question are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. According to the invention, it is particularly preferred to use citric acid and lactic acid.
In addition, the preparations according to the inventicn may contain any of the cosmetic additives typically used for the particular application envisaged.
Thus, the preparations may be formulated, for example, as hair aftertreatment preparations, shampoos, hair dyes and wave preparations.
According to the invention, the preparations are preferably formulated as hair aftertreatment preparations, particularly hair rinses. In this case, the preparations essentially contain water, perfume oils, solubilizers and dyes in addition to the components already mentioned.
The preparations according to the invention may be formulated as shampoos above all in the case of so-called composite .~ . 21~60 preparations where hair cleaning preparations and hair aftertreatment preparations are combined in one and the same product. In addition to their water base, these preparations c~ntA;n surface-active compounds selected from the group of anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants as an important component.
Anionic surfactants suitable for the preparations according to the invention are any of the anionic surfactants which are suitable for use on the human body. They are characterized by a water-solubilizing anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group c~ntA;n;ng appLu~imately 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Glycol or polygly-col ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and also hydroxyl groups may also be present in the molecule. The following are examples of suitable anionic surfactants in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium salts and also the mono-, di- and triAlkAnolAmmnn;um salts containing 2 or 3 carbon atoms in the alkanol group:

20 - linear fatty acids containing 10 to 22 carbon atoms (soaps), - ether carboxylic acids corresponding to the formula R-O-(CH2-CH2O)X-CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group contA;n;ng 10 to 22 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, 25 _ acyl sarcosides cont~;n;ng 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group, - acyl taurides c~ntA;n;ng 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group, - acyl isethionates containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group, - sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters contA;n;ng 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid m~noA1kyl polyoxyethyl esters cont~;n;ng 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, 35 - linear alkane sulfonates containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms, - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms, - alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids contain-ing 12 to 18 carbon atoms, 40 - alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates corre-sponding to the formula R-O(CH2-CH2O)X-OSO3H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, - mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to ~. 2145~60 D~-A-37 25 030, - sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and/or hydroxyalkyl propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354, - sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids cnnt~;n;ng 12 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to D~-A-39 26 344, - esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of approximately 2 to 15 molecules ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and also sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monn~l kyl polyoxyethyl esters containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO(~) or -SO3(-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example cocoacyl aminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines cnnt~;nin~ 8 to 18 carbon atomR in the alkyl or acyl group and coco-acyl aminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C8l8 alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group and which are capable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionic acids, N-alkyl aminobutyric acids, N-alkyl ;m;no~;propionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkyl amidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkyl aminopropionic acids and alkyl aminoacetic acids all cnnt~;n;ng a~,u~imately 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-çocoalkyl aminopropionate, cocoacyl aminoethyl aminopropionate and C12l8 acyl sarcosine.
Nonionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups as the hydrophilic group. Examples of 214~860 . ~ ~

compounds such as these are - adducts of 2 to 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and with alkylphenols containing 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, - Cl222 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide with glycerol, - C822 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and ethoxylated analogs thereof and - adducts of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil.

The compounds containing alkyl groups used as surfactants may be individual substances. However, it is generally preferred to produce the compounds in question from native vegetable or animal raw materials so that mixtures of compounds differing in their chain length according to the particular raw material used are obtained.
The surfactants which are adducts of ethylene and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of such adducts may be both products having a "normal-range" homolog distribution and also products having a "narrow-range" homolog distribution.
~Normal-range" products are mixtures of homologs which are obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. By contrast, narrow-range products are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. It may be preferab1e to use narrow-range products.
The preparations according to the invention preferably c~nt~;n the surface-active compounds A in quantities of 0.5 to 20%
by weight and, more particularly, in quantities of 0.5 to 10~ by weight, based on the particular preparation.
By virtue of the levelling properties of the combination of active ingredients according to the invention, the preparations may also be formulated as hair dyes. In this case, the preparations contain substantive dyes and/or oxidation dye precursors as essential components. The corresponding dyes and dye precursors suitable for use on human hair are well known to the expert.
~ here the prepara~ions according to the inventior. are formulated as permanent wave preparations, they may be formulated both as a wave solutionifor carrying out the reducing first step of f T 2 1 ~ ~ ~ 6 0 . ~

H 269 PCT g pe-,~n~nt waving and also as a fixing solution. Wave solutions contain keratin-reducing compounds, such as thioglycolic acid and physiologically safe salts thereof, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and ~-mercaptoethane sulfonic acid, as essential components. Fixing solutions are normally acidic and contain oxidizing agents, such as for example potassium bromate or hydrogen peroxide. In the case of permanent wave treatment, both the wave solution and the fixing solution may contain the combination of active ingredients according to the invention. However, a large part of the effect is actually obtained where only one of the two solutions, particularly the fixing solution, contains the combina-tion of active ingredients.
Other typical constituents of the preparations according to the invention may be:
- anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers, such as for example vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl ace-tate/butyl maleate/ isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride/acrylate copolymers, octyl acrylamide/methyl methacrylate/tert.butyl aminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/ dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers, - thickeners, such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates and xantham gum, - structurants, such as glucose and maleic acid, - protein hydrolyzates, more particularly elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soya protein and wheat protein hydrolyzates, con~n~tion products thereof with fatty acids and quaternized protein hydrolyzates, - perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins, - solubilizers, such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, - dyes, - antidandruff agents, such as Piroctone Olamine and Zinc Omadine, - other substances for pH adjustment, - active substances, such as p~nth~nol, allantoin, pyrroli~ne carboxylic acids, plant extracts and vitamins, ~1 . 214~86~

- light stabilizer~, - consistency regulators, such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers, - fats and waxes, such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins and fatty alcohols, - fatty acid alkanolamides, - complexing agents, such as EDTA, NTA and phosphonic acids, - swelling and penetration agents, such as glycerol, propyl-ene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbon-ates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secnn~Ary and tertiary phosphates, - opacifiers, such as latex, - pearlescers, such as ethylene glycol monostearate and distearate, _ propellents, such as propane/butane mixtures, N20, dimethyl ether, C02 and air and - antioxidants.

The present invention also relates to a process for treating hair with the preparation rlA; m~d in any of claims 1 to 12.
Particularly preferred proces~e3 are those in which, after the treatment, the hair is rinsed with water or with a preparation consisting largely of water.
The following Examples are intended to illustrate the invention.
~ x a m p 1 e 8 I. ~lor; - ic tests to ~tr- n~ color retention in colored hair Method A levelling tress (natural white, 2 g, approx. 15 cm long;
obtA;nAhle from the Kerling company) was tied halfway up. To simulate seriously damaged hair, the lower part of the tress was alternately cold-waved twice and ultra-bleached twice. Cold waving was carried out by treatment with an aqueous solution of a cold-wave preparation based on ammonium thioglycolate (30 minutes) and subsequent fixing with potassium bromate solution (10 minutes).
Super bl~Arh;ng was carried out with an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide and ammonium peroxydisulfate. To simulate lightly damaged hair, the upper part was only ultra-bleached once. The entire tress was then colored with Poly Diadem Pflege Intensiv Tonung (shade:
mAhng~ny coral), a product of Henkel KGaA. The coloring mixture was used in a quantity of 4 g per g tress. After a contact time of 30 -- 21~6() -minutes, the tresses were rinsed with warm water (30C) and dried with a blow dryer. The colored hair tresses were then stored for 4 days at room temperature.
After colorimetric determination of the zero values, the hair tresses were treated with the test mixture 6 times for 1 minute, the tresses being thoroughly rinsed with water (30C) after each treatment and dried with a blow dryer. The tresses were then colorimetrically evaluated using a Datacolor T~fl~h with D65 light (daylight). The sample to be evaluated was cl _cd to the spectral photometer and the remission values were measured over the visible light range from 390 to 700 nm at intervals of 10 nm and processed by computer. The computer program determined the standard color values according to the CIE system (Commission Internationale de L'Eclairage), corresponding to DIN 5033, and converted them into color intervals according to DIN 6174. The measured values shown in the following are all averages of 4 measuring points per tress half.
The following values were determined:

Total color interval DE (relative to the zero value) Levelling L (difference between the total color intervals DE after the treatment of seriously damaged and lightly damaged hair) The compositions of the mixtures tested and the results obtained are set out in Tables 1 and 2 below.

~i ` 214~860 m In ~ m In ~ O O
.
o o o rl r ~
n u~ ~ ~ In u~ ,I r r O ~ O O ~ ~D dl A

U7 ~ ~ ~1 o ~ O O r~ r u~
O co m ~ . â
,~ .... I I . ... ~c o ~ ,1 ~ r ~ ,, o C
,¢ . ~ ~ ~ a~ a~ o ~ ~ O N o ~ r a~
I ~:;
N ~ O ~ ~1 ~ r ~ -- , c~ o ~1 o ~
~ ~ o ~ o ~ ~ ~ ~ _, r D ,D
o r r u~ a ~o ~ ~ o ~ ,i ~ r ~ ~ ~

a o c~

O ~^~ o o o v ~ n ~ O ~ ~ â
a~
~P f~ C
D E~ ~
a tJ D
~ ' '1 a~ C ~ ~

S~
f~ ~ aD a, --rq r^ ~ ~ ~ In n a u a~ + r_ ~
a 5~ C a ~ ~ r r-- _ S ~D , ~ ~
~ a c~ ~ n t~ ~ 1 f~
¢ ~ n O ,~

~ '~ 0~ '^ s~ '- '~ ,~ a~ -~ aD
a~ a) ~ t~ r- U . ~ >1 r~ ~ C ~
m E~ ~ t ~ a a ~ r; a a ~ r~

H 269 PCT 13 ~-.
Table 2 ~quantities in parts by weiqht]

Component / mixture B1 B2 B3 B4 B5 B6 B7 B8 B9 B10B11 Stenol~ 1618 1.81.8 1.8 1.8 1.81.81.8 1.81.8 1.8 1.8 Tegoamid~S 187 1.61.6 1.6 1.6 1.61.61.6 1.61.6 1.6 1.6 Cutina~CPa 1.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.0 1,2-Propylene glycol 2.0 2.0 2.02.02.0 2.02.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Lactic acid 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.50.50.5 0.50.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Polychol~5 0.5 - 0.5 1.0 - - - - 0.5 0.5 Dehymuls~SMO9 0.5 - - - 0.51.0 - - 0.5 - 0.5 Monomuls~90 0 18 0.5 - - - - - 0.5 1.0 - 0.5 0.5 Perfume oil, preservative, water ~----------------------- ad 100 --------------------~
DE (lightly damaged hair) 2.5 4.7 4.2 3.8 4.1 3.5 4.1 3.9 3.1 3.5 3.3 DE (seriously damaged hair) 3.7 9.5 7.5 6.8 7.8 7.0 7.6 6.7 5.4 5.7 5.5 L 3.2 7.6 3.3 5.4 3.7 6.3 3.5 4.3 4.44.3 4.0 All mixtures were adjusted to pH 4.0 with citric acid 7 N,N-dimethyl-N'-stearoyl-1,3-~ m;nopropane (CTFA name: Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (GOLDSCHMIDT) C3 8 Ester of saturated long-chain fatty alcohols and fatty acids, primarily palmitic acid cetyl ester (CTFA name: Cetyl Palmitate) (HENKEL) 9 Sorbitan monooleate (HENKEL) ~ ~ 2 1 ~ ~ 8 ~ O

II. ~pl ;C~t;t~n r 1~
The quantities in the following Examples are ~ by weight.

1) Hair rinse Stenol01618 1.8 Tegoamid~S 18 1.6 1,2-Propylene glycol 1.0 Citric acid 0.6 Polychol~5 0.5 Dehymuls0SSO 0.15 Mon( l18~90 0 18 0.2 Perfume oil, water ad 100 The rinse had a pH value of 3.8.
2) Hair rin~e Stenol~1618 1.8 Tegoamid~S18 1.5 1,2-Propylene glycol 1.2 Lactic acid 0.5 Polychol05 0.8 Dehymuls0SMO 0.3 ~nn~ 1 ~090 0 18 0 5 Perfume oil, waterad 100 The rinse had a pH value of 4Ø

3) Hair rinse Stenol~1618 1.8 Stepantex0VS go10 1.8 1,2-Propylene glycol 0.7 Citric acid o.g Polychol05 0.5 Dehymuls~SSO 0.3 Monomllls090 0 18 0.3 Perfume oil, dye, water ad 100 The rinse had a pH value of 4.8.
0 1o N-methyl-N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N-di-(tallowacyloxyethyl)-ammonium methosulfate (90~ active substance in isopropanol) (STEPAN)

4) Hair rin~e Stenol~1618 2.5 2145~60 Eumulgin0B 11l l.O
Eumulgin0B 2l2 l.O
f Cutina~CP l.O
Eutanol~G 13 0.5 Polawax0GP 2Ool4 0.75 Abil0Quat 327015 0.5 Dow Corning0929-Emulsionl6 2.6 Polychol~5 l.O
Dehymuls0SMO 0.6 Mono~l-l809O O 18 0.5 Citric acid 0.02 Water ad lOO

The rinse had a pH value of 4Ø

Cetostearyl alcohol cont~;n~ng approx. 12 mol EO (CTFA name:
Ceteareth-12) (~F1lNKT~.T,) 2 Cetostearyl alcohol containing approx. 20 mol EO (CTFA name:
Ceteareth-20) (~T~NKT~T,) 1l Cnn~n~Ation product of saturated liquid fatty alcohols, primarily decyl alcohol, prepared by the Guerbet reaction (CTFA name: Octyl Dodecanol) (HENKEL) 14 Stearyl alcohol/polyethylene glycol stearate mixture (CTFA
name: Stearyl Alcohol (and) PEG-Stearate) (CRODA) 1S Diquaternary polymethyl siloxane (CTFA name: Quaternium-80) (GOLDSCHMIDT) 6 Aminofunctional polydimethyl siloxane (35~ active substance) (DOW COR~lNG)

5) Hair rinse Rewoquat0W 7500l7 1.1 Lanette Ola 3.0 Eumulgin0B 1 0.8 Eumulgin~B 2 1.6 Cutina0GMSl9 0.5 Eutanol0G l.O
Polychol05 2.0 Dehymul80sMs2o Mon~ ls09O O 18 1.5 Water ad lOO

7 1-Methyl-2-nortallow alkyl-3-tallow fatty acid amidoethyl imidazolinium methosulfate (approx. 75~ active substance) (REWO) la Mixture of higher saturated fatty alcohols, primarily cetyl . ~ 21~58BO

alcohol and stearyl alcohol (CTFA name: Cetearyl Alcohol) ( ~7~1~T . ) g Glycerol monostearate (CTFA name: Glyceryl Stearate) (T~NTC~ZT.) 20 Sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan Stearate) NK~T . )

6) Hair rin~e Stenol~91618 2.5 Paraffin oil perliq. 2.5 Dehydol~100 0.5 Dehyquart~DA 2.4 Polychol'lD5 3.0 Dehymuls'~9SSO 0.8 Monomuls~990 0 18 1.0 Water ad 100 The rinse had a pH value of 4.5.

7) Hair r~n~e Stenol~91618 3.5 Cutina~9GMS 1.0 Eutanol~G 2.0 Eumulgin'l!~B 321 1.4 Span~2022 1.6 Akypoquat~13123 0.7 Dow Corning'!D200 Fluid, 0.65 mm2 s-1 24 1.0 Polychol~5 1.5 Dehymul8~lDsMsla O.7 Monomuls~90 0 18 0.8 Lactic acid 0.8 Water ad 100 The rinse had a pH value of 3.5.
21 Cetostearyl alcohol cont~;n;ng approx. 30 mol ethylene oxide (CTFA name: Ceteareth-30) (HENKEL) 22 Sorbitan monolaurate (ATLAS) 23 Quaternary ammonium compound based on trimethyl amine/epichlorohydrin/behenic acid (70~ active substance) (CHEM-Y) 2~ Hexamethyl disiloxane (CTFA name: Hexamethyl Bi-siloxane) (DOW CORN lN(:; )

8) .~l _-O
Texapon'9N 2525 43.o ,,~t ~ 2145$60 Dehyton~!9K26 10.0 Plantaren~-120027 4.0 Euperlana~PK 300023 1.6 Arquad~31629 0.8 Polychol~203 3.0 Dehymulsa~SML31 1.5 nom~ )90 0 18 1.0 Glucamate~9DOE 12032 0.5 Sodium chloride 0.2 Water ad 100 2s Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (approx. 28~ active substance;
CTFA name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (HENKEL) 26 Fatty acid amide derivative, betaine structure, correspond-ing to the formula R-CONH(CH2)3N~(CH3)2(CH2COO- (approx. 30 active substance; CTFA name: Cocoamidopropyl Betaine) (r~NK~r~ ) 27 Cl2-C16 alkyl glucoside, degree of oligomerization 1.4 (ap-prox. 50~ active substance; CTFA name: Lauryl Polyglycoside (~r~NK~T~) 2s Liquid dispersion of pearle~cers and amphosurfactant (ap-prox. 62~ active ~ubstance; CTFA name: Glycol Distearate (and) Glycerin (and) Laureth-4 (and) Cocoamidopropyl Beta-ine) (~NR~r,) 29 Tri-Cl6-alkyl methyl ammonium chloride (AKZO) 30 Lanolin alcohol + 20 ethylene oxide (CTFA name: Laneth-20) (CRODA) 31 Sorbitan monolaurate (HENKEL) 32 Ethoxylated methyl glucoside dioleate (CTFA name: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate)(AMERCHOL)

9) .~1 -o Texapon~N 7033 21.0 Plantaren~-1200 8.0 Genamin0DSAC34 1.2 Cutinaa~EGMS3s 0.6 Polychol'lD20 2.0 Dehymuls0SMO 2.0 Mnnom ~ 90 0 18 1.5 Antil~14136 1.3 Sodium chloride 0.2 Water ad 100 33 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (approx. 72~ active substance) (T~NR~r) ` ~ ` 21~60 3~ Dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride (HOECHST) Ethylene glycol monostearate (approx. 25-35~ monoester, 60-70~ diester; CTFA name: Glycol Stearate) (T~F:NRF~T,) 36 Polyoxyethylene propylene glycol dioleate (40~ active sub-stance: CTFA name: Propylene Glycol (and) PEG 55 Propylene Glycol Oleate) (GOLDSCHMIDT)

10) .~ _ _o Texapon~DK 14 S37 50.0 Dehyton~9K 10.0 Akypo~l9RLM 100 NV38 4.5 Polymer P1 acc. to DE 39 29 973* 0.6 Cutina'~'AGS39 2.0 D-Panthenol 0.5 Glucose 1.0 Salicylic acid 0.4 Sodium chloride 0.5 Polychola~20 2.5 Dehymuls~SSO 1.0 r~nn~ 5990 0 18 2.5 Water ad 100 The shampoo had a pH value of 5.2.

* Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride/ acrylic acid copolymer neutralized with sodium hydroxide 3' Sodium lauryl myristyl ether sulfate (approx. 2896 active substance; CTFA name: Sodium Myreth Sulfate) (~NRT1~r.) 3s C12 1~ fatty alcohol + 10 ethylene oxide acetic acid sodium salt (22~ active substance; CTFA name: Sodium Laureth-ll Carboxylate) (CHEM-Y) 39 Ethylene glycol stearate (approx. 5-1596 monoester, 85-959 diester; CTFA name: Glycol Distearate) (T~ T-)

11) .~ _ - o Texapon~DK 14 S 25.0 TexapontDSB 3~ 7.5 Eucarol~'TA4~ 12.0 Akypo~RLM 100 NV g.o Dehyton~AB 3042 8.3 Polymer P1 acc. to DE 39 29 973 0.6 Elfacos'19GT 282S43 0.5 Polychol~20 4.0 Dehymuls~SMS 1.0 --~ 21~60 ~nno~nls090 0 18 1.5 Sodium chloride 0.5 Water ad 100 The shampoo had a pH value of 5Ø
40 Sulfosuccinic acid semiester based on an alkyl polyglycol ether, di-Na salt (approx. 40~ active substance; CTFA name:
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate) (HENKEL) 41 Lauryl alcohol+7 ethylene oxide tartrate sodium salt (ap-prox. 25~ active substance; CTFA name: Sodium Laureth-7 Tartrate) (AUSICHEM) 42 Fatty amine derivative, betaine structure (approx. 30 active substance; CTFA name: Coco-Betaine) (HENKEL) 43 Tallow alcohol+60 ethylene oxide myristyl ether (CTFA name:
Talloweth-60 Myristyl Glycol) (AKZO)

12) .~
Texapon~N 70 19.4 AkyporRLM 100 NV 9.1 Dehyton~K 6.7 Plantaren~-1200 4.0 Merquat~55044 3.8 D-Panthenol 0.5 Glucose 1.0 Benzoic acid 0.5 Polychol~20 2.5 Dehymuls~SMO 0.7 Mnnn~llls~90 0 18 0.8 Sodium chloride 0.7 Water ad 100 The shampoo had a pH value of 5Ø

~4 Dimethyl diallyl~mmon;um chloride/acrylamide copolymer (8 active substance; CTFA name: Polyquaternium 7) (MOBIL OIL)

13) Tonic pack (removable by rinsing) Stenol~1618 3.0 Eumulgin~B 1 0.5 Eumulgin~B 2 0.5 Cutina~CP 1.0 Eutanol~G 1.5 Hostacerin~PN 7345 0.004 Dow Corning~929 Emulsion 2.9 Polychol~5 1.5 ~ ~ ~ 2~ s~n Dehymuls~SSO 1.0 Mon~rllls~90 0 18 1.0 Water ad 100 45 Polyacrylic acid sodium salt copolymer (HOECHST) 214S~O

14) Dyeing cream C12-18 Fatty alcohol 1.2 Lanette 0 4.0 Eumulgin~B 2 0.8 Cutina~ KD 1645 2.0 Sodium sulfite 0.5 L(+) Ascorbic acid 0.5 Ammonium sulfate 0.5 1,2-Propylene glycol 1.2 Polymer JR~40 o47 p-Aminophenol 0.85 p-Tolylene ~lAm;ne 0.85 2-Methyl resorcinol 0.14 6-Methyl-m-aminophenol 0.42 Polychol05 0.5 Dehymuls~SMS 0.3 Monom~ 90 0 18 0.3 jA 1.5 Water ad 100 ~6 Fatty acid mono/diglyceride emulsifier mixture (CTFA name:
Tallow Glycerides (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Potassium Stearate) (HENKEL) ~7 Quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose (Union Carbide) The dyeing cream had a pH value of 10Ø It gave the hair a strong red tint.

15) Dyeing cream Texapon0N25 25.0 C1218 fatty alcohol 2.0 Hydrenol~D48 6.5 Ammonium ~ulfate l.o L(+) Ascorbic acid 0.4 Sodium sulfite 0.5 p-Aminophenol 0.08 p-Tolylene diamine 0.6 Resorcinol 0.11 4-Chlororesorcinol 0.23 6-Methyl-m-aminophenol 0.06 ,pmmon; A 1 . 2 Water ad 100 This mixture component had a pH value of lO.o.

21~5~0 _ 15a) Develc~er . 1A;Ajn fordyeing creams 14) and 15) Texapon~N 25 2.1 Hydrogen peroxide (50%) 12.0 Turpinal~l9SL49 1.7 Latekoll0Ds 12.0 Polychol'l)20 0.9 Dehymuls0SMO 0.5 ~nne,rlll 9~1990 0 18 0 7 Water ad 100 .8 C16/18 fatty alcohol 49 1-Hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (609~ active substance;
CTFA name: Etidronic Acid) (HENKEL) 50 Acrylate/methacrylic acid copolymer (25% active substance) (BASF) The dyeing cream gave the hair a brown tint.

16) Tinting ,~
Texapon~N 70 14.0 Dehyton'l~K 10.0 Akypo~9RLM 45 NVs1 14.7 Plantaren~-1200 , 4,0 Polymer P1 acc. to DE 39 29 973 0.3 25 Cremophor~RH 40s2 0.8 Dye C.I. 12 719 0.02 Dye C.I. 12 251 0.02 Dye C.I. 12 250 0.04 Dye C.I. 56 059 0.03 30 PHB ester 0.25 Perfume oil q.s.
Polychol~lD20 1.6 Dehymuls~SML 1.2 Mono~ D9o 0 18 1.1 35 Water ad 100 51 Lauryl alcohol+4.5 ethylene oxide acetic acid sodium salt (20.496 active substance) (CHEM-Y) s2 Castor oil, hydrogenated + 45 ethylene oxide (CTFA name:
40 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil) (BASF) When the hair was washed with this tinting shampoo, it was left bright light blond in color.

45 17) P~- Ant wave cream J ~ r 2 1 4 ~i ~ 6 0 Wave cream Plantaren$-800s3 5.0 Thioglycolic acid 8.0 Turpinal~SL 0.5 ~m~n~ (25~) 7.3 Ammonium carbonate 3.0 Cetostearyl alcohol 5.0 Guerbet alcohol 4.0 Polychol~5 3.0 Dehymuls~SMO 2.0 Monomuls~90 0 18 l.o Perfume oil q.5.
Water ad 100 The wave cream had a pH value of 8Ø
53 C8-Clo alkyl glucoside, degree of oligomerization 1.6 (approx.
60~ active ~ubstance) (~T~NTC~T.) ~ r, 21~S8GO

Fixinq solution Plantaren0-8OO 5.0 HydLoye~lated castor oil 2.0 Potassium bromate 3.5 Nitrilotriacetic acid 0.3 Citric acid 0.2 Merquat0550 0.5 Polychol020 1.5 Dehymuls0SMO l.O
~n~m.lls~sO O 18 l.O
Perfume oil q.s.
Water ad lOO

The fixing solution had a pH value of 3.8.
18) Liquid ~- ^~t wave Wave lotion Plantaren0-1200 3.0 Thioglycolic acid 8.0 Dehyton~K 3.3 ~ (25~) 6.4 Ammonium carbonate 3.0 Lamequat0Ls4 2.9 Nitrilotriacetic acid 0.3 Kerasol0 55 1 . O
Dyes q.s.
Perfume oil q.s.
Water ad lOO
0 54 Cationized collagen hydrolyzate (approx. 35~ active sub-stance; CTFA name: Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen) (HENKEL) 5~ Protein hydrolyzate, average molecular weight approx.
lOO,OOO Dalton (13~ active substance) (CRODA) -21'~5860 Fixinq solution Plantaren0-1200 6.0 Texapon0N 25 5.4 Potassium bromate 3.5 Xanthan gum 0 3 Citric acid 0.1 Dehyquart~Es6 1.O
Polychol~20 0.8 Dehymuls0SSO 0.8 Mnnomllls~90 0 18 1.0 Perfume oil q.s Water ad 100 56 N-(2-hydroxyhexadecyl-1)-N,N-dimethyl-N(2-hydroxyethyl)-ammonium chloride (28~ active sub.ctance) (HENKEL) 19) Gel ~e~l -nt wave Wave qel Plantaren0-1200 4.0 Thioglycolic acid 8.0 Thiolactic acid 3,0 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.7 Turpinal0SL 0,5 ~ ~ (25~) 9.3 Ammonium carbonate 3.0 Lame~uat~L 2.9 Kerasol0 0 5 Perfume oil ~.s Water ad 100 Fixinq solution Plantarenr-1200 6.0 Hydrogen peroxide (50~) 12.0 Texapon0N 25 3.6 Turpinal~SL 0.7 Panthenol 1.0 Ajidew0N 5057 4,0 Xanthan gum 0.1 Polychol020 0 7 Dehymuls0SMO o g Monomll18~90 0 18 0.8 Water - ad 100 The fixing solution had a pH value of 3.5.

,~ 214~860 57 DL-2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid sodium salt (approx. 50 active substance; CTFA name: Sodium PCA) (AJINOMOTO)

Claims

27

1. A water-based hair treatment preparation containing typical cosmetic constituents, characterized in that - alkoxylated wool wax alcohols (A), - esters of glycerol with saturated or unsaturated C10-22 fatty acids (B) and - esters of sorbitan with saturated or unsaturated C10-22 fatty acids (C) and/or alkoxylated analogs thereof are present.

2. A preparation as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the alkoxylated wool wax alcohol (A) contains 1 to 50 molecules ethylene oxide per alcohol molecule.

3. A preparation as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the glycerol esters (B) are monoesters of glycerol with unsaturated fatty acids.

4. A preparation as claimed in any of claims 1 to 3, charac-terized in that the sorbitan esters (C) are monoesters, sesquiesters, diesters or triesters with unsaturated fatty acids.

5. A preparation as claimed in any of claims 1 to 4, charac-terized in that it contains - 0.1 to 5% by weight alkoxylated wool wax alcohols (A) - 0.1 to 3% by weight glycerol esters (B) and - 0.1 to 3% by weight sorbitan esters (C) and/or alkoxylated analogs thereof.

6. A preparation as claimed in any of claims 1 to 5, charac-terized in that it also contains a conditioning agent.

7. A preparation as claimed in claim 6, characterized in that the conditioning agent is an alkyl amidoamine.

8. A preparation as claimed in any of claims 1 to 7, charac-terized in that the preparation has a pH value of 3.5 to 6 and, more particularly, in the range from 4.0 to 5Ø

9. A preparation as claimed in any of claims 1 to 8, charac-terized in that an edible acid, particularly citric acid or lactic acid, is present for pH adjustment.

10. A preparation as claimed in any of claims 1 to 9, charac-terized in that it is formulated as a hair aftertreatment prepara-tion.

11. A preparation as claimed in any of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is formulated as a shampoo.

12. A preparation as claimed in any of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is formulated as a hair dye.

13. A process for treating hair, characterized in that the preparation claimed in any of claims 1 to 12 is applied to the hair.

14. A process as claimed in claim 13, characterized in that the hair is subsequently rinsed with water or with a preparation essentially containing water.