AU727231B2 - Aqueous skin and hair care products - Google Patents

Aqueous skin and hair care products Download PDF

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AU727231B2
AU727231B2 AU72128/98A AU7212898A AU727231B2 AU 727231 B2 AU727231 B2 AU 727231B2 AU 72128/98 A AU72128/98 A AU 72128/98A AU 7212898 A AU7212898 A AU 7212898A AU 727231 B2 AU727231 B2 AU 727231B2
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hair
water
care
care compositions
skin
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AU7212898A (en
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Horst Hoffkes
Georg Knubel
Marianne Waldmann-Laue
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Acyclic And Carbocyclic Compounds In Medicinal Compositions (AREA)

Abstract

Aqueous products which contain as active care principles a mixture of (a) sulphation and/or sulphonation products of saturated and/or unsaturated carboxylic and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids; and (b) fatty alcohols and/or acids, are characterised by their special gentleness and excellent skin and hair care effect.

Description

Aqueous Skin and Hair Care Products This invention relates to water-containing skin-care and hair-care compositions, which contain as their active ingredients a mixture of sulfation and/or sulfonation products of carboxylic acids and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids and fatty alcohols and/or fatty acids, and to the use of such mixtures.
Surfactant-containing skin-care or hair-care preparations are often attended by the disadvantage that they lead to excessive defatting of the skin and/or to unwanted swelling of the keratin layer. The skin is thus converted into a dry, brittle or rough state and has an unpleasant feeling. The structure of the hair can also be adversely affected, above all where compositions for colouring or waving the hair which contain oxidising ingredients, such as hydrogen peroxide, or reducing ingredients, such as thioglycolic acid, are used. This leads to a deterioration in wet combability or even to an unsatisfactory feel. Accordingly, hair-care components, generally quaternised polymers, are added to the surfactant-containing hair treatment preparations.
Unfortunately, these quaternised polymers are also not entirely satisfactory because they can cause the hair to develop an unwanted electrostatic charge during brushing, particularly in dry air. In addition, formulations containing quaternised polymers tend to thicken in the event of prolonged storage, which is troublesome above all in the case of hair colouring creams. For this reason, oleic acid soaps in admixture with fatty alcohols have also been proposed as hair-care components in hair colorants. However, this mixture is not entirely satisfactory either because the soaps form unwanted insoluble lime soaps with hard water and, in addition, large quantities of lower alcohols are required to improve the rheological properties even though they are undesirable from the point of view of dermatological compatibility. The problem addressed by the present invention was to overcome the disadvantages described above.
DE-A1 37 07 014 relates to surfactant-containing preparations of which the skin-care properties are significantly improved by addition of a-sulfofatty acid salts. For the formulation of these preparations as cosmetic skin cleansers and hair shampoos, the document in question mentions inter alia fatty alcohols among the oils and fats optionally present. However, it does not disclose a specific formulation nor even contain any reference to a synergistic hair-/skin-care effect of a combination of a-sulfofatty acids and fatty alcohols.
It has now surprisingly been found that a mixture of sulfation and/or sulfonation products of carboxylic acids and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids with fatty alcohols and/or fatty acids has a synergistic effect in regard to its skin-care and hair-care properties which goes far beyond a purely additive skincare-hair effect of the individual components of the mixture.
Accordingly, the present invention relates to water-containing skin-care and hair-care compositions containing as their active skin-/hair-care ingredient a mixture of sulfation and/or sulfonation products of saturated and/or unsaturated carboxylic acids and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids and fatty alcohols and/or fatty acid soaps.
Sulfonation products of unsaturated and/or saturated carboxylic acids, which are also referred to hereinafter in short as "sulfonates of saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids", are preferred for the purposes of the invention. The sulfonates of the saturated carboxylic acids are also commonly 4 6 referred to in the literature as "a-sulfocarboxylic acids".
C07370 Sulfonates of unsaturated carboxylic acids are known from the literature. They may be obtained, for example, by reaction of the unsaturated carboxylic acids with gaseous sulfur trioxide.
Particulars of the production process using oleic acid, for example, can be found in DE-A1 39 26 344 to which reference is expressly made.
Monounsaturated carboxylic acids are normally reacted with substantially the same quantity of sulfur trioxide. Polyunsaturated carboxylic acids can be reacted both with the same quantity of sulfur trioxide and with an excess of sulfur trioxide. In the latter case above all, a mixture of mono- and polysulfonated products is thus formed. For reasons of product quality, it is of advantage to limit the ratio between the quantities of sulfur trioxide and polyunsaturated carboxylic acid used to values below 2.
It is known to the expert that the sulfonation of olefinically unsaturated compounds gives mixtures rather than pure compounds. In the sulfonation of unsaturated carboxylic acids, the corresponding saturated hydroxycarboxylic acid sulfonates are formed in addition to the unsaturated carboxylic acid sulfonates. The ratio between the two products is normally of the order of 70:30 to 30:70.
Since the properties of the unsaturated carboxylic acid sulfonates and the saturated hydroxycarboxylic acid sulfonates are very similar, the pure unsaturated carboxylic acid sulfonates may be replaced by the mixtures mentioned in the skin-/hair-care mixtures according to the invention.
In the context of the present invention, therefore, the expressions "sulfonation products of unsaturated carboxylic acids" and "sulfonates of unsaturated carboxylic acids" are understood to encompass both the unsaturated carboxylic acid sulfonates and the mixtures of unsaturated carboxylic acid sulfonates and saturated hydroxycarboxylic acid sulfonates which are obtained in the production process.
According to the invention, both the sulfonates or pure unsaturated carboxylic acids and the sulfonates of carboxylic acid mixtures may be used. Mixtures obtained from natural raw materials, for example oils, are normally used.
Suitable unsaturated carboxylic acids are, for example, lauroleic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, petroselic acid, petroselaidic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, linoleic acid, linolaidic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, gadoleic acid, arachidonic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, clupanodonic acid and docosahexaenoic acid.
Preferred unsaturated carboxylic acids contain 12 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 3 C=C double bonds such as, for example, petroselic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid.
Oleic acid is particularly preferred.
It has proved to be of advantage to use these sulfonation products of the unsaturated carboxylic acids in the form of their salts, especially in the form of their alkali metal salts.
According to the invention, particularly favourable skin-/hair-care properties of the skin-/hair- S care mixture are obtained where sulfonation products of saturated carboxylic acids corresponding to Oormula C07370
R
0O 0" in which R 1 is a C6- 2 0 alkyl group and X and X' independently of one another represent hydrogen, an alkali metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium cation or an alkaline amino acid, are used.
The sulfonation products of the saturated carboxylic acids are also known from the literature.
The production of a-sulfocarboxylic acid dialkali metal salts X' in formula an alkali metal cation) are described, for example, in DE-A1 39 13 385. The other a-sulfocarboxylic acid salts corresponding to formula can be similarly produced where the corresponding bases of alkaline amino acids are used for neutralisation. Suitable alkaline amino acids are, in particular, arginine, histidine, lysine and/or ornithine. Suitable alkanolamines are, for example, mono-, di- and triethanolamine. Mixed salts, such as sodium triethanolammonium mixed salts, may also be produced where the neutralisation step is carried out with 1mol of sodium hydroxide and 1mol of triethanolamine per mol of a-sulfocarboxylic acid. "Acidic" salts of the a-sulfocarboxylic acids can also be produced by neutralisation with only 1mol of base.
Sulfonation products of saturated carboxylic acids or carboxylic acid mixtures selected from the group consisting of capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and behenic acid are preferred. Sulfonation products of a carboxylic acid mixture based on lauric acid and myristic acid are particularly suitable and again are preferably used in the form of their disalts.
According to the invention, preferred sulfonation products of hydroxycarboxylic acids are the sulfonation products of C 8 to C 22 hydroxycarboxylic acids, more especially the sulfonation products of hydroxystearic acid.
The compositions according to the invention contain a fatty alcohol and/or a fatty acid as another compulsory component of the skin-/hair-care mixture.
Particularly suitable fatty acids are fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. Suitable fatty acids are, above all, the saturated fatty acids mentioned above in connection with the sulfonation products of saturated carboxylic acids.
Particularly favourable skin-/hair-care properties in the context of the invention are exhibited by mixtures with fatty alcohols, more particularly containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Suitable fatty alcohols are saturated fatty alcohols, such as caprylic alcohol, pelargonic alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
The ratio in which components a) and more particularly the sulfonation products of the saturated carboxylic acids and the fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are present in the composition according to the invention may vary within wide limits. Particularly favourable skin-haircare properties can be obtained where components a) and more particularly the sulfonation products of the saturated carboxylic acids and the fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are present in a ratio by weight of 20:1 to 1:10.
C07370 In one embodiment, the present invention relates to water-containing skin-care compositions which contain the mixture described above as their active skin-care ingredient. Water-containing skincare compositions are, for example, hand and body washing lotions, shower baths, foam baths and rinse-off skin-care emulsions. The mixture described above is present in such water-containing skincare compositions in quantities of preferably 1 to 30wt%, based on the skin-care composition.
Depending on the particular application, the skin-care compositions may contain as further ingredients anionic, cationic, nonionic or ampholytic surfactants, cosmetic oil and fatty components, fragrances, essential oils, antimicrobial agents and preservatives, thickeners, complexing agents, opacifiers and pearlescers, pH regulators and dyes which are used in quantities known to the expert.
Particularly favourable skin-care properties and a particularly pleasant skin feel are obtained where the pH value of the water-containing skin-care composition is below 4 and more particularly between 2 and 3. This can be achieved in the usual way by adding suitable acids, such as citric acid.
In another embodiment, the present invention relates to water-containing hair-care compositions and encompasses both compositions which remain on the hair and compositions which are rinsed out after a contact time of a few seconds to a few minutes. Examples of water-containing hair-care compositions are hair-care shampoos, rinses, after-treatments, conditioners, tints, colorants, permanent wave formulations, fixing products and blow-wave formulations. The hair-care mixtures are present in these water-containing hair-care compositions in quantities of 5 to 40wt%, based on the water-containing hair-care composition.
In addition, it has been found that, irrespective of the nature of the water-containing hair-care composition, certain other components complement the effect of the hair-care mixture with particular advantage. The other components in question are, in particular, acyl lactylates and water-soluble starch which may be used either individually or in the form of mixtures with one another.
Suitable acyl lactylates correspond to general formula (11): o
CH
3 o
(II)
in which R" is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl group containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, X is an alkali metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium cation or an alkaline amino acid and y is a number of 1 to Acyl lactylates in which R" is a linear or methyl-branched, more particularly saturated alkyl group containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms and y is a number of 1 to 3 are particularly preferred.
Acyl lactylates such as these are commercially available under the registered name of Pationic®.
A sodium isostearoyl lactyl lactylate marketed under the name of Pationic® ISL is a particularly preferred acyl lactylate.
C07370 Finally, compositions additionally containing water-soluble starch have also proved to be particularly effective.
Depending on the purpose for which the water-containing hair-care composition is to be used, the following ingredients may be present in the usual quantities known to the expert: nonionic surfactants, such as fatty alcohol alkoxylates and alkyl polyglycosides, anionic surfactants, such as for example alkyl benzenesulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates with a conventional or narrow homologue distribution, glycerol ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, isethionates, taurides, sarcosinates, alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts, sulfosuccinates, sulfotriglycerides and alkyl (ether) phosphates, cationic surfactants, such as for example quaternary ammonium compounds, amidoamines and quaternised esters and protein hydrolysates, zwitterionic surfactants, such as betaines for example, ampholytic surfactants, nonionic polymers, such as for example polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers and cellulose ethers, structurants, such as glucose and maleic acid, hair-conditioning compounds, such as phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and kephalins, and silicone oils, protein hydrolysates, more particularly elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and wheat protein hydrolysates, condensation products thereof with fatty acids and quaternised protein hydrolysates, perfume oils and dimethyl isosorbide, solubilisers, such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and the diethylene glycol, dyes, antidandruff agents, such as Piroctone Olamine and Zinc Omadine, other substances for adjusting the pH value, active substances, such as panthenol, allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids and salts thereof, plant extracts and vitamins, UV filters, consistency factors, such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers, waxes, such as beeswax and montan wax, fatty acid alkanolamides, complexing agents, such as EDTA, NTA and phosphonic acids, swelling and penetration agents, such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, opacifiers, such as latex, pearlescers, such as ethylene glycol monostearate and distearate, z propellants, such as propane/butane mixtures, N 2 0, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air and C07370 antioxidants, reducing agents, such as for example thioglycolic acid and derivatives thereof, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and a-mercaptoethane sulfonic acid, oxidising agents, such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate and sodium bromate.
Particularly mild surfactants for particularly effective surfactant-containing hair-care compositions are alkyl polyglycosides corresponding to the formula RO-(Z)x, where R is an alkyl group containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, Z is a monosaccharide or oligosaccharide and x is a number of 1.1 to 5. These compounds are characterised by the following parameters: The alkyl group R contains 8 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched.
Primary, linear and 2-methyl-branched aliphatic groups are preferred. Alkyl groups such as these are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl and 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. Where so-called "oxoalcohols" are used as starting materials, compounds containing an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
Particularly preferred alkyl polyglycosides are those in which R consists essentially of C8 and Clo alkyl groups, essentially of C12 and C14 alkyl groups, essentially of C 8 to C16 alkyl groups or essentially of C 1 2 to C16 alkyl groups.
Any monosaccharides or oligosaccharides may be used as the sugar unit Z. Sugars containing or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are normally used. Examples of such sugars include glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar units are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose. Glucose is particularly preferred.
Suitable alkyl polyglycosides contain on average 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl glycosides with xvalues of 1.3 to 2 and more particularly with x-values of 1.4 to 1.6 can be particularly advantageous.
In cases where water-containing hair-care compositions with particularly favourable hair-care properties are required, known cationic hair-care polymers of the type commercially available as Polymer JR®, Cosmedia Guar®, Luviquat®, Mirapol® A15, Gafquat®, Merquat®, Hercules PD®170, Cartaretine®F4, Polyquart®H and Polymin®HS may of course be present in addition to the described hair-care mixture. The cationic polymers may be present in quantities of 1 to 10wt%, based on the hair-care composition.
The compositions used in accordance with the invention may be formulated, for example, as aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, creams, gels or emulsions. Suitable alcohols are the known low molecular weight alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
The hair-care mixture has proved to be of particular advantage in hair colorants and tints.
Products such as these contain so-called "substantive" dyes and/or oxidation dye precursors.
Typical substantive dyes are, for example, nitrobenzene derivatives, anthraquinone dyes, triphenyl methane dyes and azo dyes. Representatives of this class of dyes used in hair colorants and tints are, for example, the compounds known under the International names or trade names of HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, Methylgelb, Fluorgelb, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Kardinalrot, Rot Y, Rot X, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, Nitroblau, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, picramic acid C07370 and Rodol 9 R. Other suitable substantive dyes are, for example, the compounds 3-nitro-4ethylaminobenzoic acid, 1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-6-nitroquinoxaline, 2-nitro-4-amino-4'dimethylaminodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid and 2-nitro-4-aminodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid.
Hair colorants contain so-called primary intermediates and secondary intermediates as oxidation dye precursors. The primary intermediates form the actual dyes with one another under the influence of oxidising agents or atmospheric oxygen or by coupling with one or more secondary intermediates.
The primary intermediates normally used are primary aromatic amines containing another free or substituted hydroxy or amino group in the para position or ortho position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and derivatives thereof. Special representatives are, for example, p-toluylenediamine, 2,4,5,6tetraaminopyrimidine, p-aminophenol, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(2,5diaminophenyl)-ethanol, 2-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-ethanol, 1-phenyl-3-carboxyamido-4-amino-5pyrazolone and 4-amino-3-methylphenol.
m-Phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenols are generally used as secondary intermediates. Particularly suitable secondary intermediates are a-naphthol, pyrogallol, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, 1- 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 1,3-bis-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)-propane, 2chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol and 2-methyl resorcinol.
The hair-care properties of the water-containing hair-care compositions according to the invention are particularly relevant where they are formulated for shampoos, conditioners and rinses in such a way that they have a pH value below 4. The hair-care properties of water-containing hair-care compositions containing substantive dyes or oxidation dye precursors are particularly relevant when they have a pH value in the range from 6 to 11 and, more particularly, in the range from 8 to The present invention also relates to the use of a mixture of sulfation and/or sulfonation products of unsaturated and/or saturated carboxylic acids and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids and fatty alcohols and/or fatty acids as an active skin-/hair-care mixture in water-containing skin-/hair-care compositions.
The use of a. mixture of sulfonation products of saturated carboxylic acids corresponding to formula and fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms is particularly preferred. Particulars of the compounds of the mixture used in accordance with the invention and other optional ingredients can be found in the foregoing.
The skin-/hair-care mixture used in accordance with the invention is particularly suitable for hair colorants and hair tints containing substantive dyes or oxidation dye precursors.
C07370 Examples A. Skin-care compositions 1. Rinse-off skin-care emulsion A water-containing skin-care emulsion according to the invention (El) and a skin-care emulsion used for comparison (C1) were prepared from the following ingredients (quantities in wt%, based on the emulsion): El C1 Lauric/myristic acid sulfonate disodium salt (active substance content 21.2%) 20 Stenol® 16181 5 Cationic emulsion DC® 9292 5 Perfume oil 0.3 0.3 Preservative 0.2 0.2 Citric acid to pH 4 Water to 100 100 1 1:1 mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, a commercial product of Henkel KGaA 2 cationic emulsion of a silicone polymer end-capped by aminofunctional groups (INCI name: Amodimethicone and Tallowtrimonium Chloride and Nonoxynol-10); a product of Dow Corning The emulsions were applied to the skin still moist from washing. After rinsing off, a pleasant feeling of the skin was only subjectively experienced in the case of the skin-care emulsion according to the invention.
B. Hair-care compositions The hair-care effect was determined on predamaged hair. To predamage the hair, dry hair tresses weighing about 2g (Fischbach und Miller, Type 6923) were blonded once for half an hour with 32g of a blonding mixture (commercial product Poly Blond Medium Aufheller). After the blonding mixture had been washed out, the hair tresses were permanently waved without drying using the commercial product Poly Lock Normal. The contact times of the wave component and the fixing component were 30 and 15 minutes, respectively. After the fixing component had been rinsed out, the tresses were dried and conditioned for at least 2 days under ambient conditions.
The predamaged hair was then tested for wet combability. To this end, the rinsed hair tresses were intensively shampooed before testing with quantities of 0.2mL of a 50% solution of Texapon® (28% solution of sodium lauryl ether sulfate in water) and then rinsed out. 0.5mL of the formulation to be tested was then uniformly rubbed into the hair, left in the hair for 1 minute and then carefully rinsed out. The hair was then combed with a fine-toothed comb and the combing resistance was subjectively evaluated. The comparison formulation was then tested in the same way on the same tress. Evaluation was based on a scale of 1 very good) to 6 unsatisfactory).
1. Water-containing hair aftertreatment One water-containing hair aftertreatment according to the invention (E2) and two comparison aftertreatments (C2/C3) were prepared from the following ingredients (quantities in wt%, based on the aftertreatment):
,S
E2 C2 C3 Lauric/myristic acid sulfonate (active substance content 25.5%) 20 Eumulgin® B2 3 Stenol® 1618 5 C07370 Pationic® ISL 4 3 3 3 Perfume oil 0.3 0.3 0.3 Preservative 0.2 0.2 0.2 Citric acid to pH 2 Water to 100 100 100 3 Cetyl stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 20 mol EO, a product of Henkel KGaA 4 Sodium salt of isostearoyl lactyl lactylate (INCI name: Sodium Isostearoyl-2-lactate), a product of PATCO In the wet combability test, the water-containing aftertreatment (E2) according to the invention attained a score of 1 while aftertreatments C2 and C3 attained scores or 4-5 (C2) and 4 In addition, the aftertreatment (E2) according to the invention provided the hair with improved styleholding behaviour in practical tests.
2. Water-containing hair rinse A water-containing hair rinse (E3) according to the invention and a comparison hair rinse (C4) were prepared from the following ingredients (quantities in wt%, based on the rinse): E3 C4 Oleic acid sulfonate monopotassium salt (50% active substance) 10 Stenol® 1618 Starch 5 3 3 Perfume oil 0.3 0.3 Preservative 0.2 0.2 Water to 100 100 Soluble, high-purity product of Merck Wet combability was tested as described above on predamaged hair. The hair rinse according to the invention (E3) attained a score of 3 while the comparison rinse (C4) was awarded a score of 4- 3. Hair tints A hair tint according to the invention (E4) and a comparison hair tint (C5) were prepared from the following ingredients (quantities in wt%, based on the hair tint): E4 Lauric/myristic acid sulfonate disodium salt (active substance content 25.5%) 20 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate, Texapon® N25 (active substance content 28%) Stenol® 1618 5 4-Amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid 0.1 0.1 6-Nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline hydrochloride 0.1 0.1 Ammonia to pH 8.2 Water to 100 100 Wet combability was tested on predamaged hair. The hair tint according to the invention (E4) was awarded a score of 2-3 while the comparison hair tint (C5) attained a score of 4. Hair colorants A water-containing hair colorant according to the invention (E5) and a comparison hair colorant (C6) were prepared from the following ingredients (quantities in wt%, based on hair colorant): Sc 1RAZ 7Q C6 Lauric/myristic acid sulfonate disodium salt (active substance content 25.5%) Sodium lauryl ether sulfate, Texapon® N25 (active substance content 28%) 4 24 Plantaren 6006 2 2 C07370 Akypo® Soft 45 NV 7 3 3 Tallow fatty alcohol 8 8 Polymer JR 4008 0.5 Cationic Emulsion DC®929 5 p-Toluylenediamine sulfate 0.1 0.1 p-Aminophenol hydrochloride 0.03 0.03 Resorcinol 0.04 0.04 m-Aminophenol 0.004 0.004 Ammonia to pH Water to 100 100 6 Liquid aqueous preparation of lauryl polyglycoside; a product of Henkel KGaA 7 Lauryl alcohol ethoxylate acetic acid sodium salt (INCI name: Sodium Laureth-6 Carboxylate); a product of Chem-Y 8 Quaternised hydroxyethyl cellulose (INCI name: Polyquaternium-10); a product of Amerchol Kerling "naturweip (natural white)" hair tresses were coloured for 30 minutes at room temperature with a commercial hydrogen peroxide dispersion of Poly Colour Brilliance Colour-Creme in a mixing ratio of 1:1. A light blond tone was obtained. Wet combability was determined as described above. The hair colorant according to the invention (E5) was awarded a score of 2 while the comparison colorant (C6) was awarded a score of C07370

Claims (15)

1. The use of a mixture of sulfation and/or sulfonation products of unsaturated and/or saturated carboxylic acids and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids and fatty alcohols and/or fatty acids as an active skin/hair-care mixture in water-containing skin/hair-care compositions.
2. The use claimed in claim 1, characterised in that a mixture of sulfonation products of saturated carboxylic acids corresponding to formula R 1 xil'O- 0x O X o 0 (I) in which R 1 is a C6-20 alkyl group and X and X' independently of one another represent hydrogen, an alkali metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium cation or an alkaline amino acid, and C12-22 fatty alcohols is used.
3. The use claimed in claim 2, characterised in that the active care mixture is used in water- containing hair-care compositions.
4. The use claimed in claim 3, characterised in that the hair-care compositions are hair colorants or tints containing substantive dyes or oxidation dye precursors. 15
5. Water-containing skin-/hair-care compositions containing as their active skin-/hair-care ingredient a mixture of S a. sulfation and/or sulfonation products of saturated and/or unsaturated carboxylic acids and/or Shydroxycarboxylic acids and b. fatty alcohols and/or fatty acids. 20
6. Water-containing skin-/hair-care compositions as claimed in claim 5, characterised in that sulfonation products of saturated and/or unsaturated carboxylic acids and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids are present.
7. Water-containing skin-/hair-care compositions as claimed in claim 5 or claim 6, characterised in that sulfonation products of saturated carboxylic acids corresponding to formula Ri R S.x I I I S" 25 0 (I) in which R 1 is a C6-20 alkyl group and X and X' independently of one another represent hydrogen, an alkali metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium cation or an alkaline amino acid, are present.
8. Water-containing skin-lhair-care compositions as claimed in any one of claims 5 to 7, characterised in that a mixture of sulfonation products of saturated carboxylic acids and C12-22 fatty alcohols is present as the active care ingredient.
9. Water-containing skin-lhair-care compositions as claimed in claim 8, characterised in that the sulfonation products of the saturated carboxylic acids and the C12-22 fatty alcohols are present in a ratio by weight of 20:1 to 1:10. AL
10. Water-containing hair-care compositions as claimed in any one of claims 5 to 9, characterised in that they additionally contain fatty acids. C07370
11. Water-containing hair-care compositions as claimed in any one of claims 5 to characterised in that water-soluble starch and/or acyl lactylate is present as an additional care ingredient.
12. Water-containing hair-care compositions as claimed in any one of claims 5 to 11, characterised in that they contain substantive dyes and/or oxidation dye precursors.
13. Water-containing hair-care compositions as claimed in any one of claims 5 to 12, characterised in that a cationic polymer is present.
14. Water-containing hair-care compositions as claimed in any one of claims 5 to 13, characterised in that the pH values for shampoos, aftertreatments and rinses is below 4 and, for compositions containing substantive dyes or oxidation dye precursors, is in the range from 6 to 11. Water-containing skin-/hair-care compositions, substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to any one of the examples. Dated 3 November 1999 HENKEL KOMMANDITGESELLSCHAFT AUF AKTIEN
15 Patent Attorneys for the Applicant/Nominated Person SPRUSON FERGUSON ooo C07370
AU72128/98A 1997-04-08 1998-03-30 Aqueous skin and hair care products Ceased AU727231B2 (en)

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DE19714370A DE19714370A1 (en) 1997-04-08 1997-04-08 Aqueous caring skin and hair treatment products
DE19714370 1997-04-08
PCT/EP1998/001850 WO1998044907A1 (en) 1997-04-08 1998-03-30 Aqueous skin and hair care products

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AU727231B2 true AU727231B2 (en) 2000-12-07

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AU7212898A (en) 1998-10-30
ES2180164T5 (en) 2005-09-01
DE19714370A1 (en) 1998-10-15
WO1998044907A1 (en) 1998-10-15
EP0971689B2 (en) 2005-03-23
PT971689E (en) 2003-01-31
EP0971689B1 (en) 2002-08-21
ATE222485T1 (en) 2002-09-15
EP0971689A1 (en) 2000-01-19

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