WO2024042025A1 - Colorants capillaires permettant d'augmenter la tenue de la couleur des cheveux colorés - Google Patents

Colorants capillaires permettant d'augmenter la tenue de la couleur des cheveux colorés Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024042025A1
WO2024042025A1 PCT/EP2023/072911 EP2023072911W WO2024042025A1 WO 2024042025 A1 WO2024042025 A1 WO 2024042025A1 EP 2023072911 W EP2023072911 W EP 2023072911W WO 2024042025 A1 WO2024042025 A1 WO 2024042025A1
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Prior art keywords
hair dye
hair
weight
alkanes
branched
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PCT/EP2023/072911
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English (en)
Inventor
Désirée Sarah HAAG
Christine Mendrok-Edinger
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Dsm Ip Assets B.V.
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Publication of WO2024042025A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024042025A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/004—Preparations used to protect coloured hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions, particularly to the field of cosmetic compositions for the dyeing of hair.
  • the hair colouration is a specific field of cosmetics.
  • the hair colouration is a common procedure particularly among women and is performed by using hair dyes.
  • Hair dyes are classified, according to colour resistance, into temporary, semipermanent, demipermanent and permanent.
  • the first two are based on molecules which are already coloured.
  • Temporary dyes act through dye deposition on cuticles, but semipermanent may penetrate a little into the cortex and so the colour resists up to typically six washes.
  • Demipermanent and permanent hair dyes are based on colour precursors, called oxidation dyes, and the final shade is developed by their interactions with an oxidizing agent, but they differ from the alkalizing agent used. In oxidation systems, there is an intense diffusion of the molecules into the cortex, what promotes a longer colour resistance.
  • the problem to be solved by the present invention is to offer a product which increases the colour resistance of a hair dye which is applied to the hair.
  • the present invention relates to a hair dye composition
  • a hair dye composition comprising
  • the amount of branched saturated C15-C19 alkane in said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is more than 80 % by weight, preferably more that 90 % by weight, most preferred more than 92 % by weight, in respect to the weight of said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
  • a “C x -y-alkyl” group is an alkyl group comprising x to y carbon atoms, i.e. , for example, a Ci-3-alkyl group is an alkyl group comprising 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • the alkyl group can be linear or branched. For example -CH(CH3)-CH2-CH3 is considered as a C4-alkyl group.
  • IIV(A) filters are UV filters that absorb UV(A) light, i.e. electromagnetic radiation of the wavelength between 315 and 400 nm.
  • UV(B) filters are UV filters that absorb UV(B) light, i.e. electromagnetic radiation of the wavelength between 280 and 315 nm.
  • a liquid organic UV filter is liquid at ambient temperature (i.e. 25°C).
  • a solid organic UV filter is solid at ambient temperature (i.e. 25°C).
  • a “mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes” in the present document means that said mixture comprises different alkanes each of them only having 15, 16, 17, 18 or 19 carbon atoms but does not comprise any alkanes having less carbons. Therefore, such a mixture does not contain for example dodecane or isododecane. Said mixture comprises both branched and linear C15-C19 alkanes.
  • the term “shampoo” as used in the present document relates to a hair care composition used for cleansing of hair, i.e. the removal of oils, dirt, skin particles, dandruff, environmental pollutants and other contaminant particles that gradually build up in hair.
  • the term shampoo also encompasses conditioning shampoos.
  • the shampoo preparations according to the invention are applied to the hair and then rinsed away with water and are well known to a person skilled in the art.
  • hair conditioner refers in the present document to a hair care composition which are applied after washing the hair with cleansing compositions, such as a shampoo.
  • the conditioners leave the hair more soft and pliable, facilitates combing and impart other positive attributes to the hair.
  • Such hair conditioners can be leave in or rinse off products and are well known to a person skilled in the art.
  • colour resistance refers to the resistance of a dye to be washed out by water, respectively by a cleansing product, typically a shampoo, of the dyed hair.
  • An increase in colour resistance therefore, means that the removal of the hair dye from the dyed hair by washing/shampooing is reduced.
  • hair dye composition refers to a composition which can dye hair, particular human hair. It, however, does not relate to coloured cosmetic compositions which comprise pigments, particularly inorganic pigments such as iron oxide or carbon black.
  • the hair dye composition comprises a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
  • Particular suitable mixtures of C15-C19 alkanes are particularly the ones disclosed in WO 2016/185046, WO 2017/046177, WO 2018/109353 A1 and WO 2018/109354 A1 and WO 2018/172228 A1 .
  • the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes has a content of carbon of biological origin being greater or equal to 90% with respect of the total weight of the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15- C19 alkanes.
  • the biological origin of chemicals is very advantageous as such material has a high degree of sustainability. High sustainable products or compositions are highly demanded in the market.
  • Standard ASTM D 6866 concerns "Determining the Biobased Content of Natural Range Materials Using Radiocarbon and Isotope Ratio Mass Spectrometry Analysis", while standard ASTM D 7 026 concerns ’’Sampling and Reporting of Results for Determination of Biobased Content of Materials via Carbon Isotope Analysis".
  • ASTM D 6866 concerns "Determining the Biobased Content of Natural Range Materials Using Radiocarbon and Isotope Ratio Mass Spectrometry Analysis
  • ASTM D 7 026 concerns ’Sampling and Reporting of Results for Determination of Biobased Content of Materials via Carbon Isotope Analysis”.
  • the second standard mentions the first in its first paragraph.
  • the first standard describes a test of measurement of the ratio 14 C/ 12 C of a sample and compares it with the ratio 14 C/ 12 C of a sample renewable reference of origin 100%, to give a relative percentage of C of origin renewable in the sample.
  • the standard is based on the same concepts that the dating with 14 C.
  • the composition has no or a very small amount (less than 100 ppm, particularly less than 30 ppm) of aromatic hydrocarbons with respect to the total weight of the mixture of branched and linear saturated CI SCI 9 alkanes.
  • the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is particularly produced by catalytic hydrogenation of hydrocarbon biomass feedstock, such as described in detail in WO 2016/185046, particular the one disclosed as example 3 of WO 2016/185046.
  • the amount of linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes in said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is less than 10 % by weight, preferably less than 8 % by weight, most preferred more than 5 % by weight, in respect to the weight of said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
  • the amount of C15 is less than 3 %, particularly less than 1 %, preferably less than 0.05 %, by weight in respect to the weight of said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
  • the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is a mixture of branched and linear saturated C16-C19 alkanes.
  • the amount of branched saturated C16-C18 alkane is more than 90% by weight, preferably more than 95 % by weight in respect to the weight of said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
  • the amount of C15 alkanes is less than 5 %, particularly less than 2%, by weight in respect to the weight of said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
  • the amount of branched saturated C17-C18 alkane is more than 85% by weight, preferably more than 92 % by weight in respect to the weight of said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
  • the amount of C17 alkanes is more between 15 and 20 % by weight in respect to the weight of said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
  • the amount of branched saturated C18 alkane is more than 50% by weight, preferably more than 60 % by weight, even more preferably more than 70 % by weight, relative to the weight of said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
  • the amount of C18 alkanes is particularly between 70 and 75 % by weight in respect to the weight of said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes.
  • the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes consist preferably mainly of C18 alkane(s), most preferably mainly of branched C18 alkane(s).
  • the hair dye composition comprises a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes, said composition does not comprise any lower alkanes, i.e. it does particularly not comprise any C12 alkanes and particularly does not comprise any C12 or C13 or C14 alkanes.
  • the mixture of C15-C19 alkanes has at 20°C, a viscosity of 3-15 mPa s, particularly between 6 and 12 mPa s.
  • the mixture of C15-C19 alkanes has at 20°C a refractive index of between 1 .40 and 1 .48, particularly of between 1 .42 and 1 .45, most preferably between 1 .43 and 1.44.
  • the mixture of C15-C19 alkanes is the mixtures of C15-C19 alkanes as commercialized as EMOGREENTM L19 by SEPPIC.
  • the amount of the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is in the range of between 0.015 and 12.0 % by weight, particularly between 0.5 and 11 .0 % by weight, preferably between 1 .0 and 10.0 % by weight, more preferably between 1 .5 and 8.0 % by weight, even more preferably between 2.0 and 6.0 % by weight, based on the weight of the hair dye composition.
  • the hair dye composition further comprises an ester of a fatty acid and dextrin.
  • Dextrin is an oligomer of D-glucose. Its structure can be represented simplified by the following structure
  • Dextrins have different average degrees of glycopolymerization which leads to different molecular weights.
  • the dextrin of said ester of a fatty acid and dextrin has preferably an average degree of glycopolymerization of between 3 and 20, particularly between 8 and 16.
  • the fatty acid of said ester of a fatty acid and dextrin is a C14-C18 fatty acid, particularly a linear C14-C18 fatty acid, most preferably palmitic acid.
  • ester of a fatty acid and dextrin is a dextrin palmitate as commercialized as Rheopearl® KL2 by Chiba Flour Milling.
  • Dextrin has several hydroxyl groups which can be esterified.
  • said ester of a fatty acid and dextrin has an average number of esterified hydroxyl groups of more than 2.5, preferably between 2.5 and 3.5, more preferably between 2.5 and 3.4, most preferably between 2.5 and 3.2, per glucose unit.
  • the majority of all the hydroxyl groups of the dextrin are esterified.
  • said ester of a fatty acid and dextrin has a molecular weight M n of between 8'000 and 16'000 Da, preferably between 9'000 and 13'000 Da, more preferably between 10'000 and 11'500 Da.
  • the molecular weight Mn is determined in Dalton (Da) particularly by SEC/GPC using polystyrene as standard.
  • Both fatty acid and dextrin have biological origin.
  • the biological origin of chemicals is very advantageous as such material or products thereof have a high degree of sustainability. High sustainable products or compositions are highly demanded in the market.
  • the amount of the ester of a fatty acid and dextrin is preferably in the range of between 0.01 and 15 % by weight, particularly between 0.1 and 12 % by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 8 % by weight, more preferably between 0.6 and 7 % by weight, even more preferably between 0.8 and 6 % by weight, most preferably between 1 .3 and 4 % by weight, based on the weight of the hair dye composition.
  • the ratio of the weight of said ester of a fatty acid and dextrin to the weight of said mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes is preferably less than 1 , preferably in the range of 0.5 to 0.8, most preferred in the range of 0.55 - 0.70.
  • the composition comprises preferably more, by weight, of the C15-C19 alkanes than of the ester of a fatty acid and dextrin.
  • the hair dye composition comprises either a hair dye or precursor(s) of a hair dye.
  • the hair dye is a semipermanent hair dye.
  • the semipermanent hair dye is advantageous in that it is very easy for application and suitable for regular use and is a way of colouring the hair particularly mild to the hair and the skin as they are not using an oxidizing agent.
  • the number of different shades of hair colours is somehow more limited.
  • semipermanent hair dyes are less suitable to colour gray or white hair.
  • semipermanent hair dyes cannot be used to obtain a lighter shade of the actual hair colour, which limits the possibilities of colouration for people having a natural dark or black hair colour.
  • Semipermanent hair dyes typically include compounds having a chromophore system that is common in dye chemistry such as nitro, azo, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, triarylmethane, and azomethane, which may be used as disperse dyes, nitro dyes, cationic (basic) dyes, anionic (acidic) dyes and metal complex dyes (as disclosed indicated in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry Vol A 12, page 586, 5th, completely revised edition, 1989).
  • a chromophore system that is common in dye chemistry such as nitro, azo, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, triarylmethane, and azomethane, which may be used as disperse dyes, nitro dyes, cationic (basic) dyes, anionic (acidic) dyes and metal complex dyes (as disclosed indicated in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry Vol A 12, page 586, 5th
  • anthraquinone dyes are anthraquinone having a quaternary ammonium side chain.
  • nitro dyes are compounds selected from the group consisting of 2-((2-nitrophenyl)amino)ethan-1-ol (CAS: 4926-55-0), 4-((2- hydroxyethyl)amino)-3-nitrophenol (CAS: 92952-81-3), 2-((4-amino-2- nitrophenyl)amino)ethan-1-ol (CAS: 2871-04), N,N'-Bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-p- phenylenediamine (CAS: 84041-77-0) and 2,2'-((4-((2-Hydroxyethyl)amino)-3- nitrophenyl)imino)bisethanol) (CAS: 33229-34-4), 2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine (CAS: 5307-14-2) and 4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine (CAS: 99-56-9).
  • Semipermanent hair dyes are commercially available in a great variety of chemistry and colours. Particularly suitable as semipermanent hair dyes are those implemented in the commercial product lines selected from the group consisting of Revlon® Professional Nutri ColorTM Filters from Revlon®, John Freida Violet Crush for Blondes from Kao Brands, Revolution Haircare Tones for Brunettes from Revlon®, Good Dye Young from Good Dye Young, Wella Color by You from Coty and Syoss Color Glow from Schwarzkopf & Henkel. Permanent Hair Dyes
  • the hair dye is a permanent hair dye.
  • the permanent hair dye is advantageous over the other types of hair dyes in that it offers the highest colour resistance of hair dyes, has an excellent colour coverage, particularly also for white or gray hair, and offers the broadest variety of colours and shades available. Permanent hair dyes, however, are rather aggressive, due to the chemical oxidation and fixation process.
  • a permanent hair dye is produced by a permanent hair colouring composition.
  • the hair dye composition comprises at least three components by which the permanent dye is formed:
  • the process of permanent hair dye formation is typically performed under basic conditions by the use of an alkalizing agent.
  • the mechanism of oxidation involves three steps:
  • Oxidizing agents are usually hydrogen peroxide, and the alkaline environment is usually provided by ammonia.
  • the combination of hydrogen peroxide and ammonia causes the natural hair to be lightened, providing a "blank canvas" for the dye.
  • Ammonia opens the hair shaft pores so that the dye can actually diffuse inside the fiber.
  • Primary intermediate agents are well known for use in hair colour, and include ortho or para substituted aminophenols or phenylenediamines, particularly para-phenylenediamines of the formula: wherein R 11 and R 12 are each independently hydrogen, Ci-6-alkyl, or C1-6- alkyl substituted with one or more hydroxy, methoxy, methylsulphonylamino, aminocarbonyl, furfuryl, unsubstituted phenyl, or amino substituted phenyl groups; and
  • R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 are each independently hydrogen, Ci-6-alkyl, C1-6- alkoxy, halogen, or Ci-e-alkyl substituted with one or more hydroxy or amino groups.
  • Preferred primary intermediate agent are selected from the group consisting of para-phenylenediamine, 2-methyl-1 ,4-diaminobenzene, 2,6-dimethyl- 1 ,4-diaminobenzene, 2,5-dimethyl-1 ,4-diaminobenzene, 2,3-dimethyl-1 ,4- diaminobenzene, 2-chloro-1 ,4-diaminobenzene, 2-methoxy-1 ,4-diaminobenzene, 1 -phenylamino-4-aminobenzene, 1 -dimethylamino-4-aminobenzene, 1 - diethylamino-4-aminobenzene, 1 -bis(beta-hydroxyethyl)amino-4-aminobenzene, 1 -methoxyethylamino-4-aminobenzene, 2-hydroxymethyl-1 ,4-diaminobenzene, 2-
  • Particularly preferred primary intermediate agent are p-phenylenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5- diaminotoluene, their salts and mixtures thereof.
  • the colour coupling agent is particularly selected from the group consisting of m-aminophenol, 2,4-diaminotoluene, 4-amino, 2-hydroxytoluene, phenyl methyl pyrazolone, (3-methyl-1 -phenyl-5-pyrazolone), 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol, 3,4-methylenedioxy-1 -[(beta-hydroxyethyl)amino]benzene, 1 -methoxy-2-amino-4- [(beta-hydroxyethyl)amino]benzene, 1 -hydroxy-3-(dimethylamino)benzene, 6- methyl-1-hydroxy-3[(beta-hydroxyethyl)amino]benzene, 2,4-dichloro-1 -hydroxy-3- am inobenzene, 1 -hydroxy-3-(diethylam ino)benzene, 1 -hydroxy-2-methyl-3-am ino- benzene, 2-chloro
  • Preferred coupling agents are selected from the group consisting of resorcinol, 1 -naphthol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-amino-2-hydroxy toluene, m-amino- phenol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 3-methyl-1-phenyl-5-pyrazolone, their salts, or mixtures.
  • the permanent hair colouring composition comprises an alkalizing agent.
  • alkalizing agent means an ingredient that is capable of imparting alkalinity (e. g. a pH of greater than 7) to the oxidative composition.
  • Preferred alkalizing agents are ammonium hydroxide, metal hydroxides, alkanolamines, sodium silicate, metal carbonates, sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable metal hydroxides and carbonates include alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides or carbonates. Examples of such metal hydroxides are hydroxides of sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium, magnesium or.
  • a particularly preferred alkaline earth metal hydroxide is sodium hydroxide.
  • a particularly preferred alkanolamine is monoethanolamine (MEA).
  • Permanent hair colouring compositions are commercially available in a great variety of chemistry and colours.
  • Particularly suitable as permanent hair dyes are those obtained from the commercial product lines selected from the group consisting of Schwarzkopf Brilliance from Schwarzkopf, Schwarzkopf got2b Edelmetall from Schwarzkopf & Henkel, L’ Oreal Preference Vivid Colors from L’ Oreal, Revlon ⁇ Total ColorTM from Revlon, Schwarzkopf Brilliance Gem Collection from Schwarzkopf & Henkel, Wella Professional Koleston Perfect Pure Naturals from Wella, Wella Koleston from Coty, Beautycolor Bela&Cor from Bonyplus, Miracle System from Josh Wood Colour, Garnier Nutrisse Ultra Creme Permanent Hair Dye from L’Oreal and Hello! Bubble Foam Color - Mise en Scene from Amorepacific.
  • the hair dye composition may comprise further ingredients the person skilled in the art knows for hair dye compositions form his/her knowledge.
  • additional ingredients are selected from the group consisting of water, alcohols, particularly C10-22 alcohols, silicone oils, salts, particularly sodium chloride, fragrances, oils, particularly natural, plant oils, surfactants, preferably anionic surfactants or a nonionic surfactants or a amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, particularly alkylsulfates, alkylethersulfates, alkylsulfonates or alkylarylsulfonates, stabilizers, and thickeners, particularly celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses.
  • the hair dye is either a permanent hair dye or a semipermanent hair dye.
  • the hair dye composition Due to the necessary chemical reaction between primary intermediate agent, coupling agent, and oxidant to form the permanent hair dye the hair dye composition is stored in the different compartments prior to the use resp. application of the hair dye composition.
  • the invention relates to a hair dye kit 1 comprising the hair dye composition 2, as described above in great detail, which is localized inside of a package 3.
  • the complete hair dye composition is preferably stored before its use in a single compartment package.
  • Figure 1 shows schematically such a hair dye kit 1 which has one compartment 4.
  • the compartment is preferably so that the hair dye composition 2, which is localized inside the compartment, is protected from the environment and prevents the composition from leaking.
  • the compartment is, hence, particularly preferred tight against water and/or humidity and/or other liquid fluids, and/or oxygen and/or light and/or protects the composition from heat.
  • the compartment 3 is preferably made out of polymer, metal, metal alloy or composite, particularly metal coated polymer foil or metal and/or metal coated cardboard.
  • the compartment preferably comprises means for filling and/or emptying 8, such as for example a lid or seal or cap or latch or cap, particularly a screwing cap, or any means to define a predefined breaking point or zone.
  • the compartment may be flexible or solid.
  • the compartment 4 may also be regarded as a package 3 for the hair dye composition 2.
  • the hair dye of the hair dye composition is a permanent hair dye composition and that the hair dye kit 1 comprises
  • the hair dye kit 1 is preferably a hair dye kit 1 in which the package 3 consists of at least two different closed compartments 4 wherein the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes, the ester of a fatty acid and dextrin; and the primary intermediate agent are localized in a first compartment 4a and oxidant is localized in second compartment 4b.
  • Figure 2 shows schematically such a hair dye kit 1 which has a package 3 with different compartments.
  • the compartments 4, 4a, 4b can have loose compartments, i.e. that the individual compartments are not fixed to each other by fixing means. This can be realized for example by the use of individual bags or bottles as compartments.
  • a package 3 which might represent for example a transport or sale packaging.
  • a packaging is a covering box, particularly made of cardboard, preferably coated cardboard, or polymer.
  • information such as trade name, instructions or any other information, which is typically printed on the outer surface of a commercial product packing, is preferably provided.
  • the different compartments 4, 4a, 4b, 4c can be all made out the same material or of different material.
  • the size, respectively the inner space (content), of the individual compartments 4, 4a, 4b 4c are preferably chosen so that the respective amount of the respective parts of the hair composition corresponds to the amount needed in the final hair dye product.
  • the volume of inner space of one of the compartments is chosen so that the complete amount of hair dye composition can be filled in said compartment.
  • FIG. 4 An example for such an embodiment is schematically represented in figure 4.
  • a few components of the hair dye composition 2 particularly the mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes;
  • the rest of the hair dye composition 2, particularly an oxidant, are stored.
  • the second compartment 4b is only partially filled with the respective parts of the hair dye composition so that compartment has sufficient remaining (empty) volume capacity inside of the second compartment 4b to take up the parts of the hair dye composition 2 stored in the first compartment 4a.
  • the second compartment 4b has preferably means for filling and/or emptying 8, as shown in figure 4, preferably a screwing cap.
  • the ingredients of the hair dye composition 2 are storage stable for an extended time, particularly for several months.
  • Figure 5a shows the situation when the package 3 of the kit, is removed, and the second compartment 4b is opened, particularly by applying the means for filling and/or emptying 8, as shown in figure 3, preferably by removing the screwing cap.
  • the first compartment 4a which is for example a sealed polymer bag or a bottle made of polymer, also opened, for example by cutting the walls of the first compartment by a pair of scissors or puncturing to allow accessing the parts of the hair dye composition stored in the first compartment 4a. These parts of the hair dye composition are added to the part of the hair dye composition stored in the second compartment 4b.
  • Figure 5b shows the situation of figure 5a after complete filling the content of the first compartment in to the second compartment.
  • the complete hair dye composition is within the second compartment 4b.
  • the means for filling and/or emptying 8 preferably by remounting the screwing cap, the different components may be easily mixed, for example by shaking, before the permanent hair dye is formed by the ingredients so that the permanent hair dye composition is ready for use.
  • the means for filling and/or emptying 8 can be used again, preferably by removing the screwing cap, to allow the composition to leave the second compartment 4b and to be applied to hair.
  • the different compartments may also be connected to each other.
  • they are typically connected by means to define a predefined breaking point or zone.
  • Such means can be obtained particularly by moulding of thin layers of polymers and/or by weakening the material linking the compartments by holes, particularly by a row of lines, which allow the destruction of the link between the compartments by for example ripping forces.
  • Figure 6 shows a schematic representation of such a typical hair dye kit which has two compartments with a linking zone with a predefined breaking point or zone.
  • the first compartment 4a and the second compartment 4b are connected to each other by means of a predefined breaking point or zone 7.
  • the thickness of material is typically reduced and/or comprises holes 6, as shown in figure 6.
  • the material thickness and/or number and size of holes is typically chosen so that the two compartments 4a and 4b are held together.
  • This force is typically applied by a ripping action exerted by the hand of the consumer or hairdresser or by cutting action by a pair of scissors or a knife.
  • This embodiment has the advantage that during storage and transport the two compartments are not moved loosely within the package 3 and can be easily separated at the time of use allowing an easy handling of the two compartments.
  • Figure 1 shows a schematic representation of a hair dye kit which has one compartment.
  • Figure 2 shows a schematic representation of a hair dye kit which has two compartments.
  • Figure 3 shows a schematic representation of a hair dye kit which has three compartments.
  • Figure 4 shows a schematic representation of a hair dye kit which has two compartments of which one compartment provides sufficient inner space to enclose the whole hair dyeing composition.
  • Figure 5 shows a schematic representation of a hair dye kit of figure 4 before (figure 5a) and after mixing (figure 5b).
  • Figure 6 shows a schematic representation of a hair dye kit which has two compartments with a linking zone with a predefined breaking point or zone.
  • the hair dye composition is applied to hair, particular to human hair. It has been observed that the hair dye composition, as described above in great detail, leads to an increased colour resistance of a hair dye which is applied to hair.
  • a colour change is usually not only a change of an individual parameter L, a or b, resp. L*, a* or b*, but a change of more than one of these parameters simultaneously.
  • Assessing the advantage of this invention is best realized by comparing the measured colour of dyed hair before and after shampooing and/or washing cycles.
  • the hair dye composition leads to an increased colour resistance of a hair dye which is applied to hair.
  • the present invention relates to the use of a mixture of branched and linear saturated C15-C19 alkanes in combination with an ester of a fatty acid and dextrin in a hair dye for increasing the colour resistance of a hair dye which is applied to hair.
  • the hair dye is in a one preferred embodiment a semipermanent hair dye and in another preferred embodiment a permanent hair dye.
  • the invention relates to a method of dyeing hair comprising the steps of a) applying a hair dye composition as shown above in great detail to hair b) washing the dyed hair.
  • step b) takes only place after a certain time of waiting after step a). In this time of typically 5 to 60 minutes, particularly 30 - 45 minutes, between step a) and b) the hair dye has the chance to better coat and/or penetrate the hair.
  • the hair dye is a permanent dye
  • the hair dye composition is thoroughly mixed to allow that the ingredients of the hair dye composition are homogenously distributed and that certain parts of the ingredients, such as primary intermediate agent, coupling agent and oxidant, are enabled to react to form the permanent hair dye, before the final hair dye composition is applied to the hair in step a).
  • certain parts of the ingredients such as primary intermediate agent, coupling agent and oxidant, are enabled to react to form the permanent hair dye, before the final hair dye composition is applied to the hair in step a).
  • the hair is treated with a conditioner.
  • step b) a step c) followed by step d) is performed in the above method c) applying a hair conditioner to the dyed and washed hair resulting from steps a) and b); d) washing the conditioned dyed hair resulting from step c).
  • Hair conditioners as well as their compositions, are well known to the person skilled in the art.
  • Hair tresses (Kerling Nr. 826204 KT dicht, Euro-hair, remis extra bleached, color 10/0, length: 120 mm) have been dyed according to the instruction provided in the package of the semipermanent hair dye Revelon Professional® Nutri ColorTM Filters 200 Violet ("200 Viole ) or Revelon Professional® Nutri ColorTM Filters 190 Blau (“190 Blau”) or Revelon Professional® Nutri ColorTM Filters 740 Light Copper ( ⁇ ’740 Light Copper 1 ’) using the hair dyeing composition according to table 1 .
  • the hair dye composition has been prepared by admixing dextrin palmitate, and/or C15-C19 alkane and/or water at 70°C under stirring in a beaker to the undiluted commercial hair dye (i.e. 190 Blau or 200 Violet or 740 Light Copper).
  • the compositions of table 1 have been cooled under stirring to room temperature before further use.
  • Each hair tress has been treated with 1 ml of the respective hair dyeing composition for 5 minutes.
  • the tress has been rinsed for 30 seconds with warm water (38°C) and dried at room temperature overnight. 3 tresses have been prepared per sample.
  • the dyed tresses For each shampooing/washing cycle the dyed tresses have been washed with 0.5 ml of a shampoo of the composition according to table 2 per hair tress for 30 seconds, and then rinsed for 30 seconds with warm water (38°C). This procedure has been repeated 4 times so that the tresses have been shampooed/washed 5 times in total for each shampooing/washing cycle. At the end of each shampooing/washing cycle the tresses have been dried at room temperature overnight.
  • the L*a*b*-values of the hair tresses have been measured before the first (i.e.
  • Hair tresses (Kerling Nr. 826204 KT dicht, Euro-hair, remis extra bleached, color 10/0, length: 120 mm) have been dyed according to the instruction provided in the package of the permanent hair dyes Igora Royal permanent color cream 0-89 red violet or Igora Royal Metallics 5-26 Lightbrown Ash Chocolate using the respective hair dye composition of table 9.
  • 1 CP Igora red represents the color part of the two compartment package of the commercial product Igora Royal permanent color cream 0-89 red violet.
  • the color part comprises 1 -Hydroxyethyl 4,5-Diamino Pyrazole Sulfate (primary intermediate) and 1- Naphthol (coupling agent).
  • the hair dye compositions have been prepared by admixing the respective amounts, given in table 9, of dextrin palmitate, and/or C15-C19 alkane and/or water at 70°C under stirring in a beaker to the undiluted color cream part of the commercial hair dye (i.e. CP Igora red or CP Igora LB) (comprising primary intermediate agents and coupling agents).
  • the compositions of table 9 have been cooled under stirring to room temperature before further use.
  • the so prepared compositions have been mixed with the respective developer part (comprising hydrogen peroxide as oxidant) of the commercial hair dye according to the instruction provided with the commercial hair dye in a plastic hairdresser bowl and mixed with a hair color brush. The mixed solution was then let to rest for 5 minutes.
  • Each hair tress has been then treated with 1 ml of the respective hair dyeing composition prepared as described. After 30 minutes of exposure time the tresses have been rinsed with warm water (38°C) until the water ran clear. Then the tresses have been dried over night at room temperature. The tresses have been cut in switches of 1 .0 cm width. For each test 3 tresses have been prepared.
  • the color of the dyed tresses has been measured to get the initial L*, a* b* values value (i.e. “after 0 cycles") using the color measuring method as described below “Color measuring”.
  • the dyed tresses For each shampooing/washing cycle the dyed tresses have been washed with 0.5 ml of a shampoo of the composition according to table 2 per hair tress for 30 seconds, and then rinsed for 30 seconds with warm water (38°C). This procedure has been repeated 10 times so that the tresses have been shampooed/washed 10 times in total for each shampooing/washing cycle. At the end of each shampooing/washing cycle the tresses have been dried at room temperature overnight.
  • the L*a*b*-values of the hair tresses have been measured before the first (i.e. “after 0 cycles") and after the respective shampooing/washing cycles (i.e. “after 1 cycle”, “after 2 cycles” etc.) respectively, using a Konica Minolta-CM 600d color measurement device.
  • the respective 3 tresses have been positioned next to each other and the L*a*b*-values have been 25 times measured and their average has been reported in tables 10 and 12.
  • the changes in colour indicated as AL*, Aa*, Ab* and AE* in tables 11 and 13 are calculated from the color measurements of the initial values and after the respective shampooing/washing cycles.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des compositions de colorants capillaires comprenant un mélange spécifique d'alcanes en C15-C19 saturés linéaires et ramifiés, un ester d'un acide gras et de dextrine. Il a été démontré que ces compositions de colorants capillaires permettent d'augmenter significativement la tenue de la couleur des cheveux colorés.
PCT/EP2023/072911 2022-08-22 2023-08-21 Colorants capillaires permettant d'augmenter la tenue de la couleur des cheveux colorés WO2024042025A1 (fr)

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Citations (8)

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US20060002965A1 (en) * 2003-03-22 2006-01-05 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien (Henkel Kgaa) Mixing device
US20080276384A1 (en) * 2004-06-14 2008-11-13 Hiroyasu Daigo Hair dye compositions
WO2016185046A1 (fr) 2015-05-20 2016-11-24 Total Marketing Services Procédé de production de fluides hydrocarbures biodégradables
WO2017046177A1 (fr) 2015-09-16 2017-03-23 Total Marketing Services Composition emolliente biosourcee comprenant des isoparaffines
WO2018109354A1 (fr) 2016-12-16 2018-06-21 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Procédé pour améliorer des propriétés sensorielles d'émulsions huile-dans-eau
WO2018109353A1 (fr) 2016-12-16 2018-06-21 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Procédé d'amélioration des propriétés sensorielles d'émulsions huile-dans-eau pour réduire l'effet collant desdites émulsions huile-dans-eau à base de glycérine
WO2018172228A1 (fr) 2017-03-20 2018-09-27 Total Marketing Services Composition gelifiee biosourcée
US20210137818A1 (en) * 2017-01-11 2021-05-13 Jo Cosmetics Co., Ltd. Oil-based hair coloring cosmetic

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US20060002965A1 (en) * 2003-03-22 2006-01-05 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien (Henkel Kgaa) Mixing device
US20080276384A1 (en) * 2004-06-14 2008-11-13 Hiroyasu Daigo Hair dye compositions
WO2016185046A1 (fr) 2015-05-20 2016-11-24 Total Marketing Services Procédé de production de fluides hydrocarbures biodégradables
WO2017046177A1 (fr) 2015-09-16 2017-03-23 Total Marketing Services Composition emolliente biosourcee comprenant des isoparaffines
WO2018109354A1 (fr) 2016-12-16 2018-06-21 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Procédé pour améliorer des propriétés sensorielles d'émulsions huile-dans-eau
WO2018109353A1 (fr) 2016-12-16 2018-06-21 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Procédé d'amélioration des propriétés sensorielles d'émulsions huile-dans-eau pour réduire l'effet collant desdites émulsions huile-dans-eau à base de glycérine
US20210137818A1 (en) * 2017-01-11 2021-05-13 Jo Cosmetics Co., Ltd. Oil-based hair coloring cosmetic
WO2018172228A1 (fr) 2017-03-20 2018-09-27 Total Marketing Services Composition gelifiee biosourcée

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DATABASE GNPD [online] 31 May 2022 (2022-05-31), ANONYMOUS: "GNPD - C15-19 Alkane (Non-Food)", XP093017168, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/ingredients/12747/ Database accession no. 12747 *
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