WO2023221014A1 - Émulsion cosmétique à moussage blanc réduit - Google Patents

Émulsion cosmétique à moussage blanc réduit Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023221014A1
WO2023221014A1 PCT/CN2022/093729 CN2022093729W WO2023221014A1 WO 2023221014 A1 WO2023221014 A1 WO 2023221014A1 CN 2022093729 W CN2022093729 W CN 2022093729W WO 2023221014 A1 WO2023221014 A1 WO 2023221014A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
weight
emulsion
stearate
palmitate
carbon atoms
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2022/093729
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English (en)
Inventor
Julia Eckert
Claudia Mueller
Fasong LI
Yan Li
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
Niva (Shanghai) Co. Ltd.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf Ag, Niva (Shanghai) Co. Ltd. filed Critical Beiersdorf Ag
Priority to PCT/CN2022/093729 priority Critical patent/WO2023221014A1/fr
Publication of WO2023221014A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023221014A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group

Definitions

  • the present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a cosmetic emulsion which shows reduced levels of white appearance after application.
  • Cosmetic products generally not only serve to look beautiful and attractive, but their effects make a decisive contribution to increased self-esteem and people's wellbeing. Accordingly, a wide variety of cosmetic products are used for the daily cleaning and care of human skin.
  • anti-foaming agents are included in body lotions and creams which reduce the time until the air bubbles and with it the white foam disappears. If no anti-foaming agents are used, the white foam will need longer time to disappear, and the spreading/massage upon application to the skin will increase the foaming. Thus, for consumers, the skin care product will become whiter and whiter during applying, although finally it will disappear. As a result, the consumer will have the impression that the product is difficult to spread and absorb.
  • the anti-foaming agents can help the air bubbles break and disappear faster, so the product seems to be easier spread and faster absorbed on skin.
  • silicone oils are used as anti-foaming agent.
  • E. g. dimethicone has low surface tension and is not easy to dissolve into water or other oil ingredients. As result it can easily move to the surface of the air bubbles and spread on the bubble surface. This process renders the surface of the bubble to become uneven so that the bubbles start to combine and break faster.
  • Typical silicone oil based anti-foaming compositions are described in US5531929 A.
  • EP 0339958 A3 describes encapsulated silicone anti-foaming compositions.
  • Lexgard MG Natural MB is known under the INCI designation methylhepylglycerin. Datasheets suggest that it can be used as anti-foaming agent. However, the anti-foaming capabilities of this material are still limited.
  • a first object of the present invention is a cosmetic emulsion comprising based on the total weight of the composition
  • the emulsions according to the invention allow the appearance of foaming after application to be reduced. It was surprising that a synergism was observed between the compounds.
  • normal conditions refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.
  • the term “free from” means that the proportion of the respective substance is less than 0.05%by weight. This ensures that entrainments or impurities with these substances are not included as “free from” according to the invention.
  • skin refers solely to the human skin.
  • Fatty alcohols are understood as primary alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Silicone compounds are understood as substances comprising a dimethylsiloxane subunit (SiO (CH 3 ) 2 ) in its chemical structure.
  • Emulsifiers are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name “emulsifying agent” .
  • Surfactants are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name “surfactant” .
  • the emulsion according to the invention comprises from 0.05 to 5%by weight of methylheptylglycerin. It is preferred if the total quantity of methylheptylglycerin is in the range from 0.1 to 2%by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 1.5%by weight and most preferably from 0.3 to 1.1%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the emulsion comprises at least one oil chosen from the esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated
  • the total quantity of esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated is in the range from 0.2 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 6.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 5.0%by weight and most preferably from 0.75 to 4.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • Preferred esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated are selected from the group consisting of hexyldecyl stearate, hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl
  • isopropyl myristate and/or isopropyl palmitate are particular preferred.
  • esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated, selected from the group consisting of hexyldecyl stearate, hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isonononon
  • the total quantity of isopropyl myristate and/or isopropyl palmitate is in the range from 0.2 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 6.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 5.0%by weight and most preferably from 0.75 to 4.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • At least one fatty acid triglyceride is contained in the emulsion.
  • the total quantity of the fatty acid triglycerides is preferably in the range from 0.5 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 6.5%by weight, more preferably 2.1 to 6%by weight and most preferably from 2.2 to 5.0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the fatty acid triglyceride is selected from Cocos Nucifera Oil (Triglyceride (Fractionated Coconut Oil) ) , Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter (Astrocaryum sp Triglycerides) , C10-18 Triglycerides, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Triglyceride, C12-18 Acid Triglyceride, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, C8-12 Acid Triglyceride, Caprylic/capric/myristic/stearic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Capric/Lauric/Myristic/Oleic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric/Linoleic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric/Stearic Triglyceride, Castoryl Maleate (Ceraphyl RMT (Ricinoleyl Monomaleate Triglyceride) ) , Hydrogenated C12-18 Triglycerides,
  • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride In particular preferred is Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride.
  • the total quantity of the Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 6.5%by weight, more preferably 2.1 to 6%by weight and most preferably from 2.2 to 5.0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the fatty acid triglyceride can also be part of natural oils.
  • Preferred natural oils which can be contained are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, glycine soja oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, cuckoo flower oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter, and shea butter.
  • the emulsion comprises least one fatty alcohol ether. It is preferred if the emulsion comprises distearyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether and/or dicaprylyl ether as fatty alcohol ether. Further it is preferred if total quantity of fatty alcohol ether is in the range from 0.2 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 6.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 5.0%by weight and most preferably from 0.75 to 4.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • total quantity of distearyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether and/or dicaprylyl ether is in the range from 0.2 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 6.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 5.0%by weight and most preferably from 0.75 to 4.5 %by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion. Most preferred is dicaprylyl ether.
  • the emulsion comprises less than 0.1%or 0%by weight of polymers formed by homo-or copolymerization with acrylic acid and/or methacrylic.
  • the emulsion comprises less than 0.1%or 0%by weight of polymers formed by homo-or copolymerization with 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the oil phase of the emulsion sums up to a total quantity in the range from 3.0 to 20.0%by weight, more preferably from 5.0 to 15%by weight and most preferably from 6.0 to 12.0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • emulsifier and surfactants are not part of the oil phase. Nevertheless, fatty alcohols count as part of the oil phase.
  • Further compounds which can be contained in the oil phase are for example chosen from further branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols since they are obtainable according to the Guerbet reaction.
  • Preferred alcohol oils are hexyldecanol ( G 16, T 16) , octyldodecanol ( G, 20) and 2-ethylhexyl alcohol.
  • oils preferred according to the invention are chosen from the addition products of from 1 to 5 propylene oxide units onto mono-or polyhydric C8-22-alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, e.g., PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether ( APM) .
  • mono-or polyhydric C8-22-alkanols such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, e.g., PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether ( APM) .
  • oils which can be contained in the emulsion according to the invention are chosen from the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide units onto mono-or polyhydric C3-22-alkanols, such as butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, e.g., PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon AP) , PPG-9 butyl ether ( B25) , PPG-10 butanediol ( 57) and PPG-15 stearyl ether ( E) .
  • PPG-14 butyl ether Ucon AP
  • PPG-9 butyl ether B25
  • PPG-10 butanediol 57
  • PPG-15 stearyl ether E
  • Further oils are preferbly chosen from the C8-C22-fatty alcohol esters of monobasic or polybasic C2-C7-hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular, the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid.
  • esters based on linear C14/15-alkanols, e.g., C12-C15-alkyl lactate, and on C12/13-alkanols branched in the 2 position are available under the trade name from Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH &Co., Hamburg, in particular the commercial products ESI, EMI and ETI.
  • oils which can preferably be used are chosen from the symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, e.g., glycerol carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate ( CC) or the esters of DE 197 56 454 A1.
  • the emulsion comprises at least one fatty alcohol comprising 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • fatty alcohols cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the corresponding mixture cetearyl alcohol are most preferred.
  • the total quantity of those fatty alcohols is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 6.0%by weight and most preferably 2.5 to 5.0 %by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the emulsion comprises 0.05 to 1%by weight of at least one polymer selected from the group of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum and dehydroxanthan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition. Those gums allow to build up a hydrogel structure in the formulation.
  • At least xanthan gum is contained. Further it is particular preferred if at least gellan gum is contained. Further it is particular preferred if at least sclerotium gum is contained. Further it is particular preferred if at least dehydroxanthan gum is contained.
  • the emulsion comprises 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, more preferably 0.12 to 0.5%by weight and most preferably 0.15 to 0.3%by weight of at least one polymer selected from the group of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum and dehydroxanthan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • xanthan gum Most preferred is the combination of xanthan gum and gellan gum.
  • the emulsion according to the invention comprises further short chain polyols comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
  • those preferred polyols are contained in quantities ranging from 0.5 to 10%by weight, more preferably 1 to 9%by weight and most preferably from 1.5 to 8%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the emulsion comprises phenoxyethanol and/or ethylhexylglycerin.
  • phenoxyethanol is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of phenoxyethanol is in the range from 0.1 to 2.0%by weight, preferably from 0.6 to 1.4%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • ethylhexylglycerin is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of ethylhexylglycerin is in the range from 0.1 to 1.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • nonionic emulsifier is contained.
  • nonionic emulsifiers are selected from oleth-20, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.
  • glyceryl stearate and/or glyceryl stearate SE are particularly preferred.
  • the total quantity of the nonionic emulsifier is in the range from 0.2 to 4.0%by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 3.0%by weight and most preferably 1.3 to 2.8%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • nonionic emulsifier selected from oleth-20, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil
  • the total quantity of those nonionic emulsifier is in the range from 0.2 to 4.0%by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 3.0%by weight and most preferably 1.3 to 2.8%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • At least one anionic emulsifier is contained, which is advantageously selected from the group of anionic emulsifiers having a hlb value ranging from 8 to 18, in particular from 10 to 15.
  • Preferred anionic emulsifiers are selected from glyceryl stearate citrate, sodium cetearyl sulfate and glyceryl citrate.
  • the total quantity of anionic emulsifier is in the range from 0.05 to 2.0%by weight, more preferably 0.07 to 0.3%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the total quantity of glyceryl stearate citrate, sodium cetearyl sulfate and/or glyceryl citrate is in the range from 0.05 to 2.0%by weight, more preferably 0.07 to 0.3%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • active ingredients are contained. These are advantageously selected from the group containing sodium hyaluronate, 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide, creatine, folic acid, panthenol, pantolactone, vitamin C, magnolia, calcium pantothenate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
  • the active ingredients mentioned in the group are advantageously used in total proportions of up to 2%by weight, preferably less than 1%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the emulsion is an oil in water emulsion.
  • water is contained in the emulsion in a total quantity ranging from 75.0%by weight to 95.0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • Figure 1 shows a picture of Example 1
  • Figure 2 shows a picture of Example 2
  • Figure 3 shows a picture of Example 3.
  • Figure 4 shows a picture of Example 4.
  • Ex. 2 is according to the invention.
  • Ex. 1, Ex. 3 and Ex. 4 are reference examples.
  • test sample test sample
  • Pipette which can measure 200 ⁇ L sample
  • artificial skin black PU artificial leather
  • metronome stopwatch
  • camera photograph light box
  • camera fixing system
  • imageJ image analyze software
  • Example 1 in the table above is a reference example containing methylheptylglycerin.
  • Example 2 is an example according to the invention containing methylheptylglycerin and isopropylpalmitate. If another oil, e.g., octyldodecanol is added an increase in white foam is observed (Ex. 4) . This applies also, if only the ester is used in absence of methylheptylglycerin (Ex. 3) . Thus, only by applying isopropyl palmitate in combination with methylheptylglycerin allows a synergistic reduction of white foam (Figure 2) .

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Une émulsion cosmétique qui présente des niveaux réduits d'aspect blanc après application. Spécifiquement, l'émulsion cosmétique comprend de la méthylheptylglycérine et au moins une huile choisie parmi les esters des alcools gras saturés ou insaturés linéaires ou ramifiés ayant de 2 à 30 atomes de carbone avec des acides gras saturés ou insaturés linéaires ou ramifiés ayant de 2 à 30 atomes de carbone, qui peuvent être hydroxylés, de préférence le myristate d'isopropyle et/ou le palmitate d'isopropyle.
PCT/CN2022/093729 2022-05-19 2022-05-19 Émulsion cosmétique à moussage blanc réduit WO2023221014A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2022/093729 WO2023221014A1 (fr) 2022-05-19 2022-05-19 Émulsion cosmétique à moussage blanc réduit

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2022/093729 WO2023221014A1 (fr) 2022-05-19 2022-05-19 Émulsion cosmétique à moussage blanc réduit

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WO2023221014A1 true WO2023221014A1 (fr) 2023-11-23

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2012012390A (ja) * 2010-06-04 2012-01-19 Rohto Pharmaceutical Co Ltd ヒアルロン酸含有乳化組成物
CN102844015A (zh) * 2010-03-04 2012-12-26 株式会社资生堂 防晒用组合物
EP2807925A1 (fr) * 2013-05-26 2014-12-03 Symrise AG Compositions antimcrobielles
JP2017222605A (ja) * 2016-06-15 2017-12-21 日油株式会社 化粧料組成物
US20210363086A1 (en) * 2020-05-22 2021-11-25 Inolex Investment Corporation Biobased alkyl glyceryl ethers and methods of making and using the same

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN102844015A (zh) * 2010-03-04 2012-12-26 株式会社资生堂 防晒用组合物
JP2012012390A (ja) * 2010-06-04 2012-01-19 Rohto Pharmaceutical Co Ltd ヒアルロン酸含有乳化組成物
EP2807925A1 (fr) * 2013-05-26 2014-12-03 Symrise AG Compositions antimcrobielles
JP2017222605A (ja) * 2016-06-15 2017-12-21 日油株式会社 化粧料組成物
US20210363086A1 (en) * 2020-05-22 2021-11-25 Inolex Investment Corporation Biobased alkyl glyceryl ethers and methods of making and using the same

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