WO2023215958A1 - Cosmetic cocoa honey formulations for use on hair and skin - Google Patents

Cosmetic cocoa honey formulations for use on hair and skin Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023215958A1
WO2023215958A1 PCT/BR2023/050140 BR2023050140W WO2023215958A1 WO 2023215958 A1 WO2023215958 A1 WO 2023215958A1 BR 2023050140 W BR2023050140 W BR 2023050140W WO 2023215958 A1 WO2023215958 A1 WO 2023215958A1
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Prior art keywords
cocoa
oil
honey
skin
hair
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PCT/BR2023/050140
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French (fr)
Portuguese (pt)
Inventor
Fábio Neves Dos SANTOS
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Cacaus Biocosméticos Ltda
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Publication of WO2023215958A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023215958A1/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/678—Tocopherol, i.e. vitamin E
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to base cosmetic formulations containing the innovative ingredient cocoa honey or its extracts.
  • the cosmetic active ingredient cocoa honey or its extracts gives cosmetic formulations properties, such as restrictive and, not limited to, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. The properties are due to the presence of bioactive organic compounds such as phenolics and flavonoids, amino acids, vitamins and minerals.
  • the cosmetic active ingredient cocoa honey contains minerals such as potassium, calcium, iron, manganese and zinc, in concentrations sufficient to provide properties such as cell regeneration and oil control.
  • Formulations containing cocoa honey or its extracts also contain bioactive compounds such as simple phenols, phenolic acids, acetophenones, phenylacetic acids, hydroxycinnamic acids, phenylpropenes and flavonoids.
  • the base formulations are developed for the production of cosmetic products, as a restrictive example and not limited to facial or body cream, facial or body moisturizer, shampoo, conditioner, soap, micellar solution, antioxidant facial solution, among others.
  • Cocoa (Theobroma cacao L) considered by the Aztecs to be “the food of the Gods” is known worldwide for the chocolate that is produced from almonds. When processing cocoa to extract the beans, cocoa honey is discarded as agricultural waste. Cocoa honey is a low viscosity liquid, containing reducing sugars such as fructose and sucrose, non-volatile bioactive organic compounds, as well as volatile organic compounds, essential vitamins and minerals such as potassium, sodium, calcium, iron, manganese and zinc.
  • reducing sugars such as fructose and sucrose
  • non-volatile bioactive organic compounds such as well as volatile organic compounds
  • essential vitamins and minerals such as potassium, sodium, calcium, iron, manganese and zinc.
  • cocoa honey remains neglected by the cocoa agroindustry and its use still does not reach 10% of its entire production capacity, making it an important asset of Brazilian biodiversity, very abundant and practically unexploited economically [ CARNELOSSO, M. Cocoa by-product helps in preparing chocolates with less sugar. Science and technology, n. 46, year 47, 2014],
  • Cocoa honey is an asset of Brazilian biodiversity, coming from a culture completely established in Brazil, present in the states of Bahia, Pará, Esp ⁇ rito Santo, Mato Grosso, Rondônia and Roraima [Brazilian Cocoa Yearbook 2016/Let ⁇ cia Mendes, et al. Santa Cruz do Sul: Editora Gazeta Santa Cruz, 2016].
  • Cocoa production in Brazil has been on the rise since 2003 with 170 thousand tons, rising to 261.7 thousand tons and reaching 279 thousand tons in 2016 according to data from the Brazilian Confederation of Agriculture and Livestock (CNA) [Confederaç ⁇ o of Agriculture and Livestock in Brazil. http://www.cnabrasil.org.br/noticias/importacao-complementar-de-cacau-eunica-opcao-paraindustria-processadora-manter-producao. Accessed May 1, 2017],
  • cocoa honey has become an increasingly abundant and low-cost agricultural residue because it accelerates the fermentation of beans.
  • cocoa honey is still little commercially explored due to two main factors: (i) the traditional interest of the cocoa chain only in the exploitation of almonds whose destination is the production of chocolate, which has a large consumer market; (ii) the lack of scientific research that reduces the perishability of cocoa honey and reveals its true added value based on the chemical composition of bioactive organic compounds, minerals (macro and micronutrients), and microbiological composition for applications in the food and beverage sectors and cosmetics.
  • cocoa honey To solve the technological challenge of the industrial use of cocoa honey and show the potential of cocoa honey as a raw material for different branches of the food, beverage and cosmetics industries, unprecedented research into physicochemical and microbiological characterization was carried out. of cocoa honey.
  • cocoa honey a raw material of great value for application in cosmetics.
  • bioactive compounds such as simple phenols, phenolic acids, acetophenones, phenylacetic acids, hydroxycinnamic acids, phenylpropenes and flavonoids.
  • the development of cosmetic products based on cocoa honey is also essential to encourage a transition in cocoa farming, from the specialization of the cocoa chain, focused on the chocolate market, to diversification with the sustainable use and exploitation of cocoa honey, which does not compete with chocolate, but it adds value and income for producers who become suppliers.
  • Patent BR 102016027617-9 of 24/1 1/2016 refers to an anti-stretch mark cream with a solid cosmetic composition, to combat stretch marks generated by pregnancy, overweight or growth, with hydrating and healing action on the affected areas .
  • the composition contains 1 L of moisturizing cream base (warm); 250 g of cocoa butter; 300 ml_ of avocado oil; 300 ml_ of almond oil; 100 ml_ of carrot oil; 200 ml_ rose water to aid hydration, balance the natural moisture barrier and skin healing; a teaspoon of xanthan gum. Therefore, it does not use a base containing cocoa honey or its extracts in its composition.
  • Patent BR 102019012558-6 of 18/06/2019 refers to a cream for stretch marks based on oils and plant extracts
  • this cream acts synergistically, assists and enhances the expected results of softening the appearance of stretch marks, with the average time to obtain results being around 120 days.
  • treatment with stretch mark cream promotes hydration, nutrition and stimulates cell renewal, thus restoring the skin's original characteristics.
  • Its formulation contains oils and plant extracts, vitamins and other substances. Therefore, it does not address the formulation of the base containing cocoa honey or its extracts.
  • Patent BR 102019009674-8 of 13/20172019 describes a moisturizing emulsion that prevents and treats radiodermatitis, 1st and 2nd degree burns, solar erythema, atopic dermatitis, as well as non-infected skin wounds, including ulcers. pressure, helping to eliminate fibrin and favoring the granulation of injured tissue, in addition to being a deep hydration cream.
  • the emulsion contains avocado oil, sunflower oil (Sunflower Oil), calendula glycolic extract, alpha-bisabolol, PCA-Na (Nalidone, Sodium Pidolate, Sodium Pyroglutamate), D-panthenol, allantoin, triethanolamine, TCM Triglycerides of capric/caprylic fatty acids (medium chain triglyceride of saturated fatty acids).
  • avocado oil sunflower oil (Sunflower Oil), calendula glycolic extract, alpha-bisabolol, PCA-Na (Nalidone, Sodium Pidolate, Sodium Pyroglutamate), D-panthenol, allantoin, triethanolamine, TCM Triglycerides of capric/caprylic fatty acids (medium chain triglyceride of saturated fatty acids).
  • cocoa honey or its extracts in its formulation, nor does it report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities.
  • Patent BR 102019009487-7 of 05/03/2019 refers to a method for extracting aromatic substances from the endocarp of the cocoa fruit, cocoa pulp and/or cocoa honey for the manufacture of Essences and Extracts, of perfumes, colognes and natural cocoa eau de toilette.
  • Fragrances contain aromas (smells) and/or flavors of fruits naturally produced by the cocoa endocarp and pulp.
  • the inventors describe that the extraction of these substances is done directly with alcohol, in the case of the fruit endocarp, for the production of colonies and toilet water. Therefore, it does not refer to the base cosmetic formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts, nor does it report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities.
  • Patent DE202005004609 of 03/21/2005 refers to the cosmetic massage composition for the skin which contains chocolate cream and olive oil, this massage being mainly indicated to stimulate the production of the hormone serotonin in the body. However, it does not report the presence of cocoa honey or its extracts in its base formulation, nor does it report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities.
  • Patent KR101222673 of 07/22/2011 refers to a cosmetic composition, an extract of a mixture of herbs used to relieve scalp irritation after hair dyeing and to guarantee the conditioning effect. Contains extracts of Symphytum officinale, Platycodon grandiflorum, Theobroma cacao and Eclipta prostrate as active ingredients. Extracts are prepared independently using water, C1 -C3 chain alcohol or a mixture thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition is manufactured in the form of a cream, a skin softener, an astringent, a lotion, a foundation, soap or cleansing foam. Therefore, it does not refer to the base formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts, nor does it report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities.
  • Patent RU94004559 of 02/03/1994 deals with a cosmetic cream containing the following proportion of components by weight: lanolin 1.8-2.5%; emulsion wax 3.0- 4.2%; cocoa oil 3.0-4.2%; glycerol 3.0-4.2%; almond oil 12.0-16.6%; benzene resin dye 0.95-1.2%; vitamin A 80000-120000 U; vitamin 40000-60000 U; aromatic principle 0.14-0.22 and distilled water.
  • This cream has a healing and cosmetic action on the skin. However, it does not report antioxidant activity and does not declare the presence of cocoa honey or its extracts.
  • Patent EA025061 of 02/04/2013 describes a composition for preparing a therapeutic and cosmetic cream based on biologically active natural components, intended for the treatment of skin lesions, dermatosis, elimination of scaling, removal of superficial comedones, nutrition and facial skin recovery, named water-oil emulsion creams.
  • the cream contains phyto complex of medicinal plants of licorice, green tea, Salvia officinalis, rosemary, taken in equal parts in the form of a water-alcohol-oil emulsion with a content of 40% ethyl alcohol and almond oil in a ratio of 2:3 , where the cream also contains glycyrrhizic acid, T2 emulsifier in a mixture with cocoa butter in a 1:1 ratio, nipagin, beeswax, vitamin E, vitamin C, propylene glycol, rosemary essential oil as odorant, purified water with the following proportion quantitative of ingredients by weight: water-alcohol-oil extract of medicinal plants in the proportion 1 :1 :1 -50-60; glycyrrhizic acid 0.1 -0.2; T2 emulsifier mixed with cocoa butter in a ratio of 1:1 -11 -22; vitamin E - 0.1 -0.3; vitamin C - 0.1 -0.3; beeswax - 5.0-
  • Patent UA81345C2 of 03/06/2006 refers to a cosmetic cream for peeling with an abrasive component and a fatty base that contains ground sea salt as an abrasive component, a fatty base of fine vegetable oils and vegetable fats, such as olive oil. jojoba, almond oil, wheat oil, cocoa butter.
  • bioactive additive containing vegetable oil in an amount of 75.0% to 85.0% of the total amount of bioactive additive as a carrier, sea buckthorn oil concentrate and composition of effective amount of essential oils.
  • it does not declare the base formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts, nor does it mention antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.
  • Patent RU2160082C1 dated 03/14/2000 describes a cosmetic cream containing lanolin, cocoa oil, spermaceti, olive oil, vitamin A and water, supplemented with beeswax, borax, castor oil and vitamins A and D in specified proportions. Its function is to accelerate the elimination of dryness and flaking of the skin. However, it does not declare antioxidant action and does not report the base cosmetic form containing cocoa honey or its extracts.
  • Patent CN107822998A of 12/10/2017 describes a whitening and moisturizing cream containing paullinia cupana fruit extract.
  • the cream is composed of whitening and moisturizing active ingredients, in addition to other conventional cosmetic ingredients.
  • the ingredients are Paullinia cupana fruit extract, lycium barbarum polysaccharide, respectively, in the proportion of 0.5-2% and 0.5-1.5% by mass. But, it does not contain cocoa honey or its extracts.
  • Patent RO130734A0 of 02/1/2015 deals with a cosmetic cream intended for people over 30 years of age.
  • the cream contains 0.1 -5% cholesterol, 1 -5.5% cetacean, 1 -5.5% cetostearyl alcohol, 0.5-5% stearic acid, 2.5 -40% olive oil, 3-10% yellow wax and cocoa butyl, 0.1 -35% sea buckthorn oil and almond oil, argan oil, 1 -5% orange oil, 0.1 -5 .5% coenzyme Q and 3% borax water. Therefore, it does not use cocoa honey or its extracts in its base composition.
  • Patent WO2019/000067 of 06/30/2017 describes a cosmetic composition for correcting skin tone.
  • the invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing a antioxidant complex and conditioning agent(s), in the form of a skin tone correction cream (or "Color Control Cream” or "CC cream”), which provides cellular detoxification and cellular oxygenation effects. Therefore, it does not contain a base formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts.
  • Patent MX2018003120 of 03/13/2018 refers to a cosmetic composition for topical application of ten ingredients and water, which are cosmetic additives and substances that promote luminosity, softness, moisture and improve the skin in terms of the presence of wrinkles .
  • it contains cetyl alcohol (1.2% - 2.0%), stearic acid (4.16% - 6.0%), glycerin (7.0% - 9.0%), and an extract of Alloispermum Integrifolium ( 0.1% - 2.5%).
  • the extract contains various quercetin and quercetin derivatives (total phenols and flavonoids of 106.8 mg ⁇ 5.30 mg gallic acid / 100 g and 305 mg ⁇ 14.7 mg catechin / 100 g).
  • cocoa butter (0.2% - 2.0%), propylparaben (0.05%), methylparaben (0.20%), almond oil (2.0% - 3.0%), 0%), triethanolamine (0.50% - 1.0%) and essence (0.001%).
  • cocoa butter (0.2% - 2.0%), propylparaben (0.05%), methylparaben (0.20%), almond oil (2.0% - 3.0%), 0%), triethanolamine (0.50% - 1.0%) and essence (0.001%).
  • cocoa butter (0.2% - 2.0%)
  • propylparaben 0.05%)
  • methylparaben 0.20%
  • almond oil (2.0% - 3.0%
  • 0% 0%
  • triethanolamine 0.50% - 1.0%)
  • essence 0.001%
  • Patent RU2625738 of 04/15/2016 describes an intimate cream for women.
  • This consists of a combined cosmetic base including cocoa butter, beeswax, lecithin, dead bee extract, bee cola extract, honey, hypericum oil, cedar oil, vitamin PP, vitamin E, essential tree oil of tea, cade oil and biologically active pantoate, plant material including Altai deer antler extracts, ortilia extract, clover extract, milfoil extract and shelf fungus extract.
  • the inventors describe that the invention provides the optimization of the formulated composition with the consequent improvement in the natural and environmental characteristics of the intimate cosmetic product for women, as well as the harmonization of female intimate life. Therefore, it does not describe a base formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts in its composition.
  • Patent RU2625502 of 04/12/2016 describes a method of producing intimate contact cosmetic cream for men aimed at intimate hygiene, consisting of a combined cosmetic base, including cocoa butter, beeswax, lecithin, dead bee extract, bee glue extract, honey, hypericum oil, cedar oil, vitamin PP, vitamin E, tea tree essential oil, cade oil and biologically active pantoate - plant material, including extracts of horns Altai deer, vetch extract, clover extract, nettle extract.
  • the inventors describe that the invention provides optimization of the formulated composition and harmonizes man's intimate life. Therefore, it does not address the base formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts.
  • Patent CN108175740 of 01/29/2018 discloses a repair cream capable of effectively preventing and removing stretch marks.
  • the repair cream comprises the following components by weight percentage: 3-6% black currant seed oil, 2-4% butyrospermum parkii fruit butter, 3-6% olea europaea fruit oil, 2-4% of cocoa butter, 17.5-35% of a composition (1) for removing stretch marks and 9-22% of a composition (2) for removing stretch marks; wherein the composition (1) for removing stretch marks is composed of 5-10% methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartate, 2.5-5% collagen and 10-20% beta-glucan; the stretch mark removal composition (2) is composed of 3-10% of a pseudoalteromonas fermentation product extract, 3-6% of acetyl tripeptide-1, 2-4% of a gotu kola extract and 1 - 2% oligopeptide-1.
  • the invention also provides the method of preparing the repair cream. However, it does not refer to the formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts, nor
  • Patent RU2680517 of 09/26/2017 refers to curative cosmetology and intimate cosmetics and presents the curative-prophylactic pan-therapeutic intimate cosmetic cream for the local administration production method, intended for strengthening skin tone, filling of cells of the epidermis with the balanced set of nutrients, manifestations of hemorrhoids in the prevention of rectal mucous membranes, protection against microtraumas and anal fissures, in the first stage consisting of the preparation of a cosmetic base combined by feeding cocoa butter and beeswax. Therefore, it does not refer to the base formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts, as well as does not report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.
  • Patent RU268541 1 of 08/29/2018 refers to cosmetics and presents anti-aging cream for face lifting containing green tea infusion, cocoa butter, macadamia oil, caprylic/capric triglycerides, glycerol, cetearyl alcohol, glycerol monostearate, acrylic/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, hyaluronic acid, retinol, vitamin E, ascorbic acid, a fragrance, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, dehydroacetonic acid, benzyl alcohol, dye and water, in which the components of the cream are in a certain proportion by weight.
  • the invention provides skin products, having regenerative action, rejuvenating action on the skin and restoring its turgor. Therefore, it does not contain a base formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts, nor does it report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.
  • Patent RU2694898 of 08/29/2018 describes an anti-cellulite laser cream for problem areas, comprising green tea infusion, rosehip infusion, cocoa butter, almond oil, caprylic/capric triglycerides, glycerin, cetearyl alcohol , glycerin monostearate, coffee oil, acrylic/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, poppy oil, goji berry extract, guarana extract, linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, L-carnitine, a fragrance, benzoic acid , sorbic acid, dehydroacetonic acid, benzyl alcohol, Cl 75125 dye and water, in which the cream components are in a certain proportion by weight.
  • it does not have a base formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts, nor does it report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.
  • Patent CN10781 1920 of 29/1 1/2017 refers to an energy purifying cream, which is prepared from the following components in percentage by mass: 10% water, 3% glycerin, 2% propylene glycol , 3% isopropyl myristate, 70% taraxacum officinale rhizome extract, 2% butyrospermum parkii extract, 5% cocoa seed lipid and 5% xanthan gum.
  • the invention has an improving effect on daily skin care, breast dredging female and skin lumps, it is prepared from safe raw materials without side effects and can be used for daily care. Therefore, it is not a base formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts, nor does it report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.
  • Patent WO2016201506 of 06/15/2016 presents a method for nourishing human skin and a kit for the user to prepare a nourishing cream formulation for the skin. They describe the effective therapeutic amount of the cream that is applied to the skin being treated.
  • the cream is in emulsion form, having an oil-based phase comprising an emulsifying wax and a therapeutic agent selected from: macadamia oil, sweet almond oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, shea butter, cocoa, extract of rosemary and its combinations.
  • the aqueous phase contains an emollient, in particular glycerin. Therefore, it does not use cocoa honey or its extracts in the formulation, nor does it report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.
  • Patent CN106420378 of 12/28/2016 belongs to the technical field of cosmetic makeup products and, in particular, refers to a tanning cream and a method of preparing the tanning cream.
  • the tanning cream is mainly prepared from 10-20% polyglycerol monosterate, 10-15% ethylhexyl palmitate, 5-10% isononyl isononanoate, 4-8% ethyl cellulose, 5-10% cocoa powder, 2-5% sodium algae acid, 3-7% hyaluronic acid, 5-12% titanium dioxide, 7-12% dicamphor sulfonated terephthalylidene acid, 3-5% vitamin E3, 5-10% malic acid, 0.5-1.5% preservative and 10-20% water.
  • the cream has a high level of safety and can reduce the burden on the skin; Furthermore, the concealing tanning cream has good tanning effects after use.
  • the formulation does not declare cocoa honey or its derivatives, or any other cocoa ingredient in its composition.
  • Patent GB2582142 of 03/12/2019 refers to a solid cosmetic composition containing vegetable butter, sodium bicarbonate and cream of tartar.
  • the vegetable butter can be cocoa butter or illipe butter and constitutes 40 to 60% by weight of the composition.
  • Sodium bicarbonate is 10 to 20% by weight of the composition.
  • O cream of tartar is 8 to 18% by weight of the composition.
  • the composition may further comprise a surfactant, such as a lauryl alcohol polyoxyether (e.g., Laureth 4).
  • the composition may further comprise one or more of a dye, binder, filler, perfume or decorative item. Therefore, it is not a formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts, nor does it report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.
  • formulations presented differ from existing ones because their characterizations present volatile and non-volatile bioactive organic compounds, amino acids, vitamins and minerals from cocoa honey or its extracts.
  • Another advantage is the high stability of the active ingredients, antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity, which have the benefits of hydrating and cleansing the skin and helping to reduce and prevent acne.
  • the texture is light, has a firming and nourishing effect. Furthermore, it does not contain toxic elements for the environment and human organism, it uses plant raw materials, of natural agricultural origin, and uses agricultural waste that would be discarded in the environment, contributing to sustainability.
  • FIG. 1 Samples of fresh cocoa honey after pH adjustment.
  • Emulsions Emulsion A: 5% cocoa honey; emulsion B: 20% cocoa honey; emulsion C: 50% cocoa honey and emulsion D: 100% cocoa honey.
  • the present invention aims to present cosmetic formulations, the reason for this patent application, developed for application in products, such as, but not limited to, facial and body cream, facial mask, facial and body moisturizing lotion, micellar water, antioxidant facial solution, shampoo, conditioner, hair mask, soap, capable of hydrating, performing asepsis, promoting cell regeneration, cleaning and removing oil from the skin and/or scalp.
  • products such as, but not limited to, facial and body cream, facial mask, facial and body moisturizing lotion, micellar water, antioxidant facial solution, shampoo, conditioner, hair mask, soap, capable of hydrating, performing asepsis, promoting cell regeneration, cleaning and removing oil from the skin and/or scalp.
  • the cosmetic formulations contain, in addition to cocoa honey or its extracts, Olivem 1000, stearic acid, lactic acid, vitamin E, bacuri butter, cupuaçu butter, cocoa butter, licuri oil, babassu oil, sequestrant green (sodium gluconate), green thickener (sclerotium gum), citroleum emulsifier.
  • Cosmetic formulations have in their composition non-volatile bioactive organic compounds, fibers, vitamins A, C, B complex, amino acids, essential minerals such as potassium, sodium, calcium, iron, manganese and zinc, different classes of bioactive compounds such as simple phenols, phenolic acids, acetophenones, phenylacetic acids, hydroxycinnamic acids, phenylpropenes and flavonoids.
  • the formulations have the following composition: cocoa honey or its extracts, vegetable oil, vegetable butter, emulsifier, antioxidant, green sequestrant, green thickener, emulsifier with moisturizing, antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties associated with cocoa honey or its extracts.
  • the conditioner, shampoo, soap, facial or micellar water product was prepared by combining the following components, considering the total weight: vehicle (0% to 100%), cocoa honey or its extracts (5% to 95% ), surfactants (0.5% to 28.0%), thickeners (0.2% to 0.7%), emulsifiers (0.5% to 6.0%), emollients (0.5% to 5 .0%), humectants (0.3% to 4.0%), antioxidant (0.01% to 0.02%), preservative (0.01% to 0.1%) and fragrance (0.01% to 0.5%).
  • the moisturizing, cream or serum products were formulated by combining the following components, considering the total weight: vehicle (0% to 10%), cocoa honey or its extracts (5% to 95%), surfactants (0.5 % to 28.0%), thickeners, (0.2% to 0.7%), emulsifiers (0.5% to 6.0%), emollients (0.5% to 5.0%), humectants (0.3% to 4.0%), antioxidant (0.01% to 0.02% ), preservative (0.01% to 0.1%) and fragrance (0.01% to 0.5%).
  • vehicle 0% to 10%
  • cocoa honey or its extracts 5% to 95%)
  • surfactants 0.5 % to 28.0%
  • thickeners (0.2% to 0.7%)
  • emulsifiers (0.5% to 6.0%)
  • emollients (0.5% to 5.0%)
  • humectants humectants
  • fragrance 0.01% to 0.5%).
  • the cream product resulting from the formulation should be applied to the
  • facial and body creams, facial and body lotions have moisturizing and beneficial properties for the skin, with a light texture. As it is a cream or lotion, it lasts a long time on the skin, when compared to other products available on the market.
  • cocoa honey or its extracts are being proposed as a cosmetic ingredient for the first time, the characterization of its physicochemical and microbiological properties was carried out.
  • the physicochemical properties determined in cocoa honey were: pH 3.4 - 3.6; density 1,065 - 1,074 g/mL; conductivity 190 - 221 mV; dissolved oxygen 6% - 15%; Brix 14 - 17%; turbidity 312 - 350 NTU; natural fermentation ethanol 3 - 9%; viscosity 6.01 - 7.98 mPa.
  • Figure 1 exemplifies samples of fresh cocoa honey after pH adjustment.
  • B Cocoa honey with an initial pH of 3.6 and a final pH of 5.5.
  • C Cocoa honey with an initial pH of 3.6 and a final pH of 6.0.
  • the chemical characterization of cocoa honey determined the concentration (Total) of amino acids: Aspartic acid 0.0477 g/100 g, glutamic acid (Total) 0.123 g/100 g, alanine ⁇ 0.015 (LOQ)* g/100 g, arginine (Total) ⁇ 0.01 (LOQ)* g/100 g, phenylalanine ⁇ 0.031 (LOQ)* g/100 g, glycine ⁇ 0.019 (LOQ)* g/100 g, hydroxyproline ⁇ 0.2 (LOQ )* g/100 g, histidine ⁇ 0.02 (LOQ)* g/100 g, isoleucine ⁇ 0.035 (LOQ)* g/100 g, leucine ⁇ 0.015 (LOQ)* g/100 g, lysine (Total) ⁇ 0.014 (LOQ)* g/100 g, ornithine ⁇ 0.05 (LOQ)
  • the characterization of cocoa honey determined the vitamins: vitamin B12 (cyanocobalamin) ⁇ 0.25 (LOQ)* pg/100 g, vitamin B5 (calcium pantothenate) 0.0567 mg/100 g, vitamin B5 (Pantothenic acid ) 0.0522 mg/100 g, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine) 0.0372 mg/100 g, vitamin B1 (thiamine base) 0.144 mg/100 g, vitamin B2 (riboflavin) 0.0103 mg/100 g, vitamin A ( Retinol) ⁇ 21 (LOQ)* pg/100 g, vitamin C 4.38 mg/100 g, vitamin B3 (Total Niacin) 0.534 mg/100 g.
  • cocoa honey determined the sugars: fructose 4.98 g/100 g, galactose ⁇ 0.10* (LOQ) g/100 g, glucose 4.90 g/100 g, lactose ⁇ 0. 10* (LOQ) g/100 g and sucrose 2.93 g/100 g.
  • the concentration of total sugar was determined by ion chromatography sugar (Sum - total) 12.82 g/100 g.
  • the chemical characterization of cocoa honey determined the organic acids by HPLC-UV: acetic acid ⁇ 0.20* (LOQ) g/100 g, citric acid 0.73 g/100 g, formic acid ⁇ 0.10 * (LOQ) g/100 g, fumaric acid ⁇ 0.10* (LOQ) g/100 g, lactic acid ⁇ 0.05* (LOQ) g/100 g, maleic acid ⁇ 0.10* (LOQ) g /100 g, malic acid 0.06 g/100 g, propionic acid ⁇ 0.20* (LOQ) g/100 g, succinic acid ⁇ 0.20* (LOQ) g/100 g, tartaric acid ⁇ 0.10 * (LOQ) g/100 g and nbutyric acid ⁇ 0.20* (LOQ) g/100 g.
  • the characterization of cocoa honey determined the total polyphenols: calc polyphenols. as gallic acid equivalent 350 mg/kg, polyphenols calc. as tannic acid equivalent 422 mg/kg, polyphenols calc. as catechin equivalent 279 mg/kg, polyphenols calc. as EGCG equivalent 508 mg/kg and polyphenols calc. as epicatechin equivalent 213 mg/kg.
  • the chemical characterization of cocoa honey determined the metals (macro and micronutrients): magnesium (total Mg) 301.084 mg/kg, manganese (total Mn) 1.164 mg/kg, molybdenum (total Mo) ⁇ 0.045 * (LOQ) mg/kg, potassium (total K) 272.375 mg/kg, sodium (total Na) ⁇ 0.448* (LOQ) mg/kg, aluminum (total Al) 1.679 mg/kg, barium (total Ba) ⁇ 0.560* (LOQ) mg/kg, calcium (total Ca) 94.501 mg/kg, magnesium (total Mg) 301.084 mg/kg, manganese (total Mn) 1.164 mg/kg, molybdenum (total Mo) ⁇ 0.045* (LOQ) mg/kg, arsenic (total As) ⁇ 0.006* (LOQ) mg/kg, cadmium (total Cd) 0.011 mg/kg, copper (total Cu
  • thermotolerant coliform count ⁇ 1 * cfu/mL enterobacteria count such as enterobacteriaceae ⁇ 10 * cfu/mL, total coliform count ⁇ 1 * cfu/mL, mold count and yeasts, molds > 450 cfu/mL and yeasts ⁇ 1 * cfu/mL, Escherichia coli count ⁇ 1 * cfu/mL, sulfite-reducing Clostridia count 5 cfu/mL, Listeria monocytogenes count ⁇ 10* cfu/g, count of enterobacteria such as enterobacteriaceae ⁇ 10* cfu/mL, aerobic count 30°C with total mesophilic count 1700 cfu/mL, positive coagulase Staphylococcus count - Staphylococcus coag. positive. ⁇ 10* c
  • FIG. 3 shows the in vitro test of the irritant potential of the cosmetic ingredient cocoa honey according to the OECD 439 methodology.
  • Assessment test of the irritant potential of cocoa honey test item SUPPORT LAB - STORAGE -20 °C (cocoa honey), through tissue viability (MTT) in human skin culture after 15 min of contact.
  • the data represents the average percentage of cell viability, mean ⁇ standard deviation, in relation to the respective negative control.
  • the average tissue viability of cocoa honey was 105-122% compared to the negative control, that is, in addition to not being toxic to the tissue, cocoa honey promoted an increase in cell viability.
  • the base formulation was composed of cocoa butter (5-10%) (Theobroma cacao), cupuaçu butter (5-10%) (Theobroma grandiflorum), licuri oil (Syagrus coronata) (5-10%) , Nipaguard SCE® preservative containing propanediol and benzoic acid (1 -3%), cocoa honey (5-95%), stearic acid (1 -2%), Olivem 1000® emulsifier containing cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate (1 -5 %), pink pepper essential oil (0.25-1.0%) (Schinus terebinthifolia), double-distilled glycerin (1 -3%), vitamin E (0.5-1.0%) and deionized water (5 -50%).
  • Cocoa honey was incorporated into the formulations (F1, F2, F3 and F4) in different proportions to obtain emulsions with different consistencies, viscosities, colors and fragrances.
  • Table 1 shows the composition of cosmetic formulations containing different proportions of cocoa honey as a new cosmetic ingredient.
  • Table 1 Composition of cosmetic formulations containing different proportions of cocoa honey as a new cosmetic ingredient.
  • Cetearyl alcohol 30/70 (Cetaryl alcohol) 5-10 5-10 5-10 5-10
  • Ethoxylated cetostearyl alcohol 20OE (Ceteareth-20) 1 -5 1 -5 1 -5 1 -5
  • Isopropyl palmitate (Isopropyl palmitate) 1 -5 1 -5 1 -5 1 -5
  • Glyceryl monostearate (Glyceryl stearate) 0.5- 0.5- 0.5- 0.5-2
  • Cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao seed butter) 0.5- 0.5- 0.5- 0.5-2
  • Nipaguard® SCE (Sorbitan Caprylate (and) 1 -3 1 -3 1 -3 1 -3
  • Xanthan gum (Xanthan gum) 0.1 - 0.1 - 0.1 - 0.1 - 0.1 -2
  • Vitamin E (Tocopherol) 0.5- 0.5- 0.5- 0.5-2

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Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetic formulations for use on hair and skin containing an innovative ingredient, coca honey or extracts thereof. Cocoa honey or extracts thereof are active substances containing minerals, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins and organic bioactive compounds which are responsible for the moisturising, antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, cell regenerating and oleosity controlling properties, as restrictive and non-limiting examples. The skin irritation test carried out on an experimental model of natural human skin showed that cocoa honey does not irritate the skin. Cocoa honey achieved an 105-122% increase in cell viability. The cosmetic base containing the innovative ingredient, cocoa honey or extracts thereof, with a high concentration of active substances, can be used to produce various cosmetic products, such as face or body creams, face or body moisturizers, face masks, face serums, shampoos, conditioners, soaps, hair masks, leave-in creams, among other restrictive and non-limiting examples.

Description

FORMULAÇÕES COSMÉTICAS DE MEL DE CACAU PARA APLICAÇÕES EM PELE E CABELO COSMETIC FORMULATIONS OF COCOA HONEY FOR SKIN AND HAIR APPLICATIONS
Campo da invenção Field of invention
[001 ] A presente invenção refere-se às formulações cosméticas base contendo o ingrediente inovador mel de cacau ou seus extratos. O ativo cosmético mel de cacau ou seus extratos confere às formulações cosméticas propriedades, como exemplo restritivo e, não limitante à antioxidante, anti-inflamatória e antimicrobiana. As propriedades são devido a presença de compostos orgânicos bioativos como fenólicos e flavonoides, aminoácidos, vitaminas e minerais. O ativo cosmético mel de cacau contém minerais como potássio, cálcio, ferro, manganês e zinco, em concentrações suficientes para conferir propriedades como regeneração celular e controle da oleosidade. As formulações contendo o mel de cacau ou seus extratos, contém ainda, compostos bioativos como fenóis simples, ácidos fenólicos, acetofenonas, ácidos fenilacéticos, ácidos hidroxicinâmicos, fenilpropenos e flavonoides. As formulações base são desenvolvidas para produção de produtos cosméticos, como exemplo restritivo e, não limitante a creme facial ou corporal, hidratante facial ou corporal, shampoo, condicionador, sabonete, solução micelar, solução facial antioxidante, entre outros.[001] The present invention relates to base cosmetic formulations containing the innovative ingredient cocoa honey or its extracts. The cosmetic active ingredient cocoa honey or its extracts gives cosmetic formulations properties, such as restrictive and, not limited to, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. The properties are due to the presence of bioactive organic compounds such as phenolics and flavonoids, amino acids, vitamins and minerals. The cosmetic active ingredient cocoa honey contains minerals such as potassium, calcium, iron, manganese and zinc, in concentrations sufficient to provide properties such as cell regeneration and oil control. Formulations containing cocoa honey or its extracts also contain bioactive compounds such as simple phenols, phenolic acids, acetophenones, phenylacetic acids, hydroxycinnamic acids, phenylpropenes and flavonoids. The base formulations are developed for the production of cosmetic products, as a restrictive example and not limited to facial or body cream, facial or body moisturizer, shampoo, conditioner, soap, micellar solution, antioxidant facial solution, among others.
Fundamentos da invenção Fundamentals of the invention
[002] O Cacau (Theobroma cacao L) considerado pelos Astecas “o alimento dos Deuses” é mundialmente conhecido pelo chocolate que é produzido a partir das amêndoas. No processamento do cacau para extração das amêndoas, o mel de cacau é descartado como resíduo agrícola. O mel de cacau é um líquido de baixa viscosidade, contendo açúcares redutores como frutose e sacarose, compostos orgânicos bioativos não- voláteis, além de compostos orgânicos voláteis, vitaminas e minerais essenciais como potássio, sódio, cálcio, ferro, manganês e zinco. [002] Cocoa (Theobroma cacao L) considered by the Aztecs to be “the food of the Gods” is known worldwide for the chocolate that is produced from almonds. When processing cocoa to extract the beans, cocoa honey is discarded as agricultural waste. Cocoa honey is a low viscosity liquid, containing reducing sugars such as fructose and sucrose, non-volatile bioactive organic compounds, as well as volatile organic compounds, essential vitamins and minerals such as potassium, sodium, calcium, iron, manganese and zinc.
[003] No entanto, o mel de cacau permanece negligenciado pela agroindústria do cacau e seu aproveitamento ainda não atinge 10% de toda a sua capacidade de produção, sendo então, um importante ativo da biodiversidade brasileira, muito abundante e, praticamente inexplorado economicamente [CARNELOSSO, M. Subproduto do cacau ajuda no preparo de chocolates com menos açúcar. Ciência e tecnologia, n. 46, ano 47, 2014], [003] However, cocoa honey remains neglected by the cocoa agroindustry and its use still does not reach 10% of its entire production capacity, making it an important asset of Brazilian biodiversity, very abundant and practically unexploited economically [ CARNELOSSO, M. Cocoa by-product helps in preparing chocolates with less sugar. Science and technology, n. 46, year 47, 2014],
[004] Entre os diversos compostos bioativos presentes no mel de cacau destacam-se os compostos fenólicos e flavonoides que são conhecidos por conferir atividade antioxidante, antimicrobiana e anti-inflamatória. Porém, para o mel de cacau não existem pesquisas que determinem as atividades antioxidante, antimicrobiana e anti-inflamatória, e associe a elas os compostos responsáveis [EFRAIM, P.; ALVES, A. B.; JARDIM, D. C. P. Polifenóis em cacau e derivados: teores, fatores de variação e efeitos na saúde. Braz. J. Food Technol., Campinas, v. 14, n. 3, p. 181 -201 , DOI:10.4260/BJFT201 1140300023, 201 1 ], [004] Among the various bioactive compounds present in cocoa honey, phenolic and flavonoid compounds stand out, which are known to confer antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity. However, for cocoa honey there is no research that determines the antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activities, and associates the responsible compounds with them [EFRAIM, P.; ALVES, A. B.; JARDIM, D. C. P. Polyphenols in cocoa and derivatives: levels, variation factors and effects on health. Braz. J. Food Technol., Campinas, v. 14, no. 3, p. 181 -201 , DOI:10.4260/BJFT201 1140300023, 201 1 ],
[005] As oportunidades de inovação e crescimento do setor de cosméticos no século XXI estão relacionadas à busca por matérias-primas naturais e vegetais, de fontes renováveis, principalmente de resíduos agroindustriais, de baixo custo e impacto para a natureza, mas com alto valor agregado [MAGALHÃES, W.V. et al. Patenting in the cosmetic sector: study of the use of herbal extracts. Braz. J. Pharm. Sci. [online], vol.47, n.4, pp.693-700. ISSN 2175-9790, 2011 ], [005] Opportunities for innovation and growth in the cosmetics sector in the 21st century are related to the search for natural and vegetable raw materials, from renewable sources, mainly from agro-industrial waste, with low cost and impact on nature, but with high value aggregate [MAGALHÃES, W.V. et al. Patenting in the cosmetic sector: study of the use of herbal extracts. Braz. J. Pharm. Sci. [online], vol.47, n.4, pp.693-700. ISSN 2175-9790, 2011 ],
[006] O grande desafio para as indústrias de cosméticos é aliar as tecnologias de ponta disponíveis com a produção em larga escala a partir de matérias primas vegetais, principalmente resíduos agroindustriais, mantendo a preservação do meio ambiente e a sustentabilidade [FONSECA-SANTOS, B; CORREA, M.A.; CHORILLI, M. Sustainability, natural and organic cosmetics: consumer, products, efficacy, toxicological and regulatory considerations. Braz. J. Pharm. Sci., São Paulo , v. 51 , n. 1 , p. 17-26, 2015]. [006] The great challenge for the cosmetics industries is to combine the cutting-edge technologies available with large-scale production from vegetable raw materials, mainly agro-industrial waste, maintaining the preservation of the environment and sustainability [FONSECA-SANTOS, B ; CORREA, M.A.; CHORILLI, M. Sustainability, natural and organic cosmetics: consumer, products, efficacy, toxicological and regulatory considerations. Braz. J. Pharm. Sci., São Paulo, v. 51, n. 1, p. 17-26, 2015].
[007] Uma oportunidade para superação desse desafio é a utilização de insumos agrícolas e agroindustriais e ativos da biodiversidade florestal os quais vêm ganhando cada vez mais destaque na era da bioeconomia, podendo ser beneficiado pela lei do Bem 1 1.196/05 [GONÇALVES, G.M.S. et al. Use of Curcuma longa in cosmetics: extraction of curcuminoid pigments, development of formulations, and in vitro skin permeation studies. Braz. J. Pharm. Sci., São Paulo , v. 50, n. 4, p. 885-893, 2014], [008] O desenvolvimento de produtos cosméticos derivados de ativos naturais da biodiversidade é um dos grandes focos e está entre as inovações de maior impacto no setor de cosméticos. A aceitação de produtos cosméticos contendo ingredientes naturais e vegetais tem aumentado no mercado nacional e internacional, visto que esses ingredientes estão associados à sustentabilidade e à preservação dos biomas, ajudando a consolidar os novos valores da sociedade como o bem-estar, a saúde, a estética, a juventude e a longevidade [CASTANO, A.M.V.; CIFUENTES, M.C.B.; RINCON, D.J.C. Antioxidant activity of two varieties of Ocimum basilicum L. for potential use in phytocosmetics. Rev. Fac. Nal. Agr. Medellin, Medellin, v. 69, n. 2, p. 7965-7973, 2016.]. [009] Produtos cosméticos contendo extratos de partes comestíveis do guaraná, açaí, cupuaçu, pequi, maracujá, licuri, karité, semente de linho, uva e pupunha já são bem aceitos no mercado nacional e internacional sendo produzidos e comercializados pelas principais empresas do ramo de cosméticos. No entanto, demonstrar que o aproveitamento de resíduos agroindustriais é viável para a produção de cosméticos compreende o desafio a ser superado [FUNASAKI, M. et al. Amazon rainforest cosmetics: Chemical approach for quality control. Quim. Nova, São Paulo, v. 39, n. 2, p. 194-209, fev. 2016], [007] An opportunity to overcome this challenge is the use of agricultural and agro-industrial inputs and forest biodiversity assets, which are gaining increasing prominence in the bioeconomy era, and can benefit from the Good Law 1 1.196/05 [GONÇALVES, GMS et al. Use of Curcuma longa in cosmetics: extraction of curcuminoid pigments, development of formulations, and in vitro skin permeation studies. Braz. J. Pharm. Sci., São Paulo, v. 50, no. 4, p. 885-893, 2014], [008] The development of cosmetic products derived from natural active ingredients from biodiversity is one of the major focuses and is among the innovations with the greatest impact on the cosmetics sector. The acceptance of cosmetic products containing natural and vegetable ingredients has increased in the national and international market, as these ingredients are associated with sustainability and the preservation of biomes, helping to consolidate the new values of society such as well-being, health, aesthetics, youth and longevity [CASTANO, AMV; CIFUENTES, MCB; RINCON, DJC Antioxidant activity of two varieties of Ocimum basilicum L. for potential use in phytocosmetics. Rev. Fac. Nal. Agr. Medellin, Medellin, v. 69, no. 2, p. 7965-7973, 2016.]. [009] Cosmetic products containing extracts from edible parts of guaraná, açaí, cupuaçu, pequi, passion fruit, licuri, shea, flax seed, grape and peach palm are already well accepted in the national and international market, being produced and sold by the main companies in the sector of cosmetics. However, demonstrating that the use of agro-industrial waste is viable for the production of cosmetics comprises the challenge to be overcome [FUNASAKI, M. et al. Amazon rainforest cosmetics: Chemical approach for quality control. Quim. Nova, São Paulo, v. 39, no. 2, p. 194-209, Feb. 2016],
[0010] O mel de cacau é um ativo da biodiversidade brasileira, oriundo de uma cultura completamente estabelecida no Brasil, presente nos estados da Bahia, Pará, Espírito Santo, Mato Grosso, Rondônia e Roraima [Anuário brasileiro do cacau 2016/Letícia Mendes, et al. Santa Cruz do Sul: Editora Gazeta Santa Cruz, 2016]. [0010] Cocoa honey is an asset of Brazilian biodiversity, coming from a culture completely established in Brazil, present in the states of Bahia, Pará, Espírito Santo, Mato Grosso, Rondônia and Roraima [Brazilian Cocoa Yearbook 2016/Letícia Mendes, et al. Santa Cruz do Sul: Editora Gazeta Santa Cruz, 2016].
[001 1 ] A produção de cacau no Brasil está em ascensão desde 2003 com 170 mil toneladas, passando para 261 ,7 mil toneladas e chegando a 279 mil toneladas em 2016 segundo dados da Confederação da Agricultura e Pecuária do Brasil (CNA) [Confederação da Agricultura e Pecuária no Brasil. http://www.cnabrasil.org.br/noticias/importacao-complementar-de-cacau-eunica-opcao- paraindustria-processadora-manter-producao. Acessado 1 de maio de 2017], [001 1] Cocoa production in Brazil has been on the rise since 2003 with 170 thousand tons, rising to 261.7 thousand tons and reaching 279 thousand tons in 2016 according to data from the Brazilian Confederation of Agriculture and Livestock (CNA) [Confederação of Agriculture and Livestock in Brazil. http://www.cnabrasil.org.br/noticias/importacao-complementar-de-cacau-eunica-opcao-paraindustria-processadora-manter-producao. Accessed May 1, 2017],
[0012] Como consequência do aumento da produção de cacau na última década, ocorreu o aumento da produção de polpa, mel de cacau e casca de cacau que não são aproveitados pela indústria de chocolate. O mel de cacau tornou-se cada vez mais abundante e um resíduo agrícola de baixo custo porque acelera a fermentação da amêndoas. Entretanto, o mel de cacau ainda é pouco explorado comercialmente devido a dois fatores principais: (i) o tradicional interesse da cadeia do cacau apenas na exploração das amêndoas cujo destino é a produção de chocolate que possui um grande mercado consumidor; (ii) a falta de pesquisas científicas que reduzam a perecibilidade do mel de cacau e revele o seu verdadeiro valor agregado baseado na composição química de compostos orgânicos bioativos, minerais (macro e micronutrientes), e composição microbiológica para aplicações nos ramos de alimentos, bebidas e cosméticos. [0012] As a consequence of the increase in cocoa production in the last decade, there has been an increase in the production of pulp, cocoa honey and cocoa shells that are not used by the chocolate industry. Cocoa honey has become an increasingly abundant and low-cost agricultural residue because it accelerates the fermentation of beans. However, cocoa honey is still little commercially explored due to two main factors: (i) the traditional interest of the cocoa chain only in the exploitation of almonds whose destination is the production of chocolate, which has a large consumer market; (ii) the lack of scientific research that reduces the perishability of cocoa honey and reveals its true added value based on the chemical composition of bioactive organic compounds, minerals (macro and micronutrients), and microbiological composition for applications in the food and beverage sectors and cosmetics.
[0013] Para solucionar o desafio tecnológico do uso industrial do mel de cacau e mostrar as potencialidades do mel de cacau como matéria-prima para diferentes ramos de indústrias de alimentos, bebidas e cosméticos foi realizada a pesquisa inédita de caracterização físico-química e microbiológica do mel de cacau. [0013] To solve the technological challenge of the industrial use of cocoa honey and show the potential of cocoa honey as a raw material for different branches of the food, beverage and cosmetics industries, unprecedented research into physicochemical and microbiological characterization was carried out. of cocoa honey.
[0014] Nossas pesquisas do mel de cacau determinou diferentes classes de compostos bioativos como fenóis simples, ácidos fenólicos, acetofenonas, ácidos fenilacéticos, ácidos hidroxicinâmicos, fenilpropenos e flavonoides. Essa grande diversidade de compostos bioativos encontrados ao mesmo tempo, num mesmo produto, torna o mel de cacau uma matéria-prima de grande valor para aplicação em cosméticos. O desenvolvimento de produtos cosméticos baseados no mel de cacau também é fundamental para incentivar uma transição na cacauicultura, da especialização da cadeia do cacau, focada no mercado do chocolate, para uma diversificação com o aproveitamento e uso sustentável do mel do cacau, que não compete com o chocolate, mas agrega valor e renda para os produtores que se tornam fornecedores. A diversificação da cadeia do cacau com o aproveitamento do mel de cacau é de grande importância, sobretudo, pela possibilidade de produção de extrato concentrado em compostos bioativos e geração de renda e de novos produtos a partir de um resíduo que é descartado. EFRAIM, P.; ALVES, A.B.; JARDIM, D.C.P. Revisão: Polifenóis em cacau e derivados: teores, fatores de variação e efeitos na saúde. Braz. J. Food Technol., Campinas, v. 14, n. 3, p. 181 -201 , Sept. 201 1 ; SILVA, E.N. et al. Nutritional value and antioxidant capacity of "cocoa honey" (Theobroma cacao L.). Food Sci. Technol (Campinas), Campinas, v. 34, n. 4, p. 755-759, 2014], [0015] Algumas patentes de cosméticos contendo ingredientes e bioativos vegetais têm sido depositadas conforme pesquisa em banco de patentes como INPI e ESPACENET. [0016] A patente BR 102016027617-9 de 24/1 1/2016 se refere a um creme anti-estrias com uma composição cosmética sólida, para combater estrias geradas pela gravidez, sobrepeso ou crescimento, com ação de hidratação e cicatrização das áreas afetadas. A composição contém 1 L de base creme hidratante (quente); 250 g de manteiga de cacau; 300 ml_ de óleo de abacate; 300 ml_ de óleo de amêndoas; 100 ml_ de óleo de cenoura; 200 ml_ de água de rosas para auxiliar na hidratação, equilibrar a barreira de umidade natural e cicatrização da pele; uma colher de chá de goma xantana. Portanto, não utiliza na sua composição a base contendo o mel de cacau ou seus extratos. [0014] Our research on cocoa honey determined different classes of bioactive compounds such as simple phenols, phenolic acids, acetophenones, phenylacetic acids, hydroxycinnamic acids, phenylpropenes and flavonoids. This great diversity of bioactive compounds found at the same time, in the same product, makes cocoa honey a raw material of great value for application in cosmetics. The development of cosmetic products based on cocoa honey is also essential to encourage a transition in cocoa farming, from the specialization of the cocoa chain, focused on the chocolate market, to diversification with the sustainable use and exploitation of cocoa honey, which does not compete with chocolate, but it adds value and income for producers who become suppliers. The diversification of the cocoa chain with the use of cocoa honey is of great importance, above all, due to the possibility of producing an extract concentrated in bioactive compounds and generating income and new products from waste that is discarded. EFRAIM, P.; ALVES, AB; JARDIM, DCP Review: Polyphenols in cocoa and derivatives: levels, variation factors and health effects. Braz. J. Food Technol., Campinas, v. 14, no. 3, p. 181 -201, Sept. 201 1 ; SILVA, EN et al. Nutritional value and antioxidant capacity of "cocoa honey" (Theobroma cacao L.). Food Sci. Technol (Campinas), Campinas, v. 34, no. 4, p. 755-759, 2014], [0015] Some patents for cosmetics containing plant ingredients and bioactives have been filed according to research in patent banks such as INPI and ESPACENET. [0016] Patent BR 102016027617-9 of 24/1 1/2016 refers to an anti-stretch mark cream with a solid cosmetic composition, to combat stretch marks generated by pregnancy, overweight or growth, with hydrating and healing action on the affected areas . The composition contains 1 L of moisturizing cream base (warm); 250 g of cocoa butter; 300 ml_ of avocado oil; 300 ml_ of almond oil; 100 ml_ of carrot oil; 200 ml_ rose water to aid hydration, balance the natural moisture barrier and skin healing; a teaspoon of xanthan gum. Therefore, it does not use a base containing cocoa honey or its extracts in its composition.
[0017] A patente BR 102019012558-6 de 18/06/2019 se refere a um creme para estrias a base de óleos e extratos vegetais, os inventores descrevem que este creme age sinergicamente, auxilia e potencializa os resultados esperados de amenização da aparência das estrias, sendo o prazo médio para obtenção dos resultados, cerca de 120 dias. Os inventores descrevem que o tratamento com o creme para estrias promove a hidratação, nutrição além de estimular a renovação celular, devolvendo assim as características íntegras da pele. Sua formulação contém óleos e extratos vegetais, vitaminas e outras substâncias. Assim, não trata de formulação da base contendo o mel de cacau ou seus extratos. [0017] Patent BR 102019012558-6 of 18/06/2019 refers to a cream for stretch marks based on oils and plant extracts, the inventors describe that this cream acts synergistically, assists and enhances the expected results of softening the appearance of stretch marks, with the average time to obtain results being around 120 days. The inventors describe that treatment with stretch mark cream promotes hydration, nutrition and stimulates cell renewal, thus restoring the skin's original characteristics. Its formulation contains oils and plant extracts, vitamins and other substances. Therefore, it does not address the formulation of the base containing cocoa honey or its extracts.
[0018] A patente BR 102019009674-8 de 13/05/2019 descreve uma emulsão hidratante que previne e trata radiodermites, queimaduras de 1 ° e 2o graus, eritema solar, dermatite atópica, bem como feridas cutâneas não infectadas, incluindo úlceras de pressão, auxiliando na eliminação de fibrina e favorecendo a granulação do tecido injuriado, além de ser um creme de hidratação profunda. A emulsão contém óleo de abacate, óleo de girassol (Sunflower Oil), extrato glicólico de calêndula, alfa-bisabolol, PCA-Na (Nalidone, Pidolato de sódio, Piroglutamato de sódio), D-pantenol, alantoína, trietanolamina, TCM Triglicérides de ácidos graxos cáprico/caprílico (triglicerídeo de cadeia média de ácidos graxos saturados). Entretanto, não apresenta na sua formulação mel de cacau ou seus extratos, nem relata atividades antioxidante, anti-inflamatória e antimicrobiana. [0019] A patente BR 102019009487-7 de 09/05/2019 se refere a um método para extrair substâncias aromáticas do endocarpo do fruto de cacau, da polpa de cacau e/ou do mel de cacau para a fabricação de Essências e Extratos, de Perfumes, de Colônias e de Águas de Toalete naturais do cacau. As fragrâncias contêm aromas (cheiros) e/ou sabores de frutas naturalmente produzidas pelo endocarpo e pela polpa do cacau. Os inventores descrevem que a extração destas substâncias é feita diretamente com álcool, no caso do endocarpo dos frutos, para produção de colônias e de águas de toalete. Portanto, não se refere a formulação cosmética base contendo o mel de cacau ou seus extratos, bem como não relata atividades antioxidante, anti-inflamatória e antimicrobiana. [0020] A patente DE202005004609 de 21/03/2005 se refere à composição cosmética de massagem para pele a qual contém creme de chocolate e azeite de oliva, sendo esta massagem, principalmente, indicada para estimular a produção do hormônio serotonina no corpo. Entretanto, não relata na sua formulação base a presença do mel de cacau ou seus extratos, bem como não relata atividades antioxidante, anti-inflamatória e antimicrobiana. [0018] Patent BR 102019009674-8 of 13/05/2019 describes a moisturizing emulsion that prevents and treats radiodermatitis, 1st and 2nd degree burns, solar erythema, atopic dermatitis, as well as non-infected skin wounds, including ulcers. pressure, helping to eliminate fibrin and favoring the granulation of injured tissue, in addition to being a deep hydration cream. The emulsion contains avocado oil, sunflower oil (Sunflower Oil), calendula glycolic extract, alpha-bisabolol, PCA-Na (Nalidone, Sodium Pidolate, Sodium Pyroglutamate), D-panthenol, allantoin, triethanolamine, TCM Triglycerides of capric/caprylic fatty acids (medium chain triglyceride of saturated fatty acids). However, it does not contain cocoa honey or its extracts in its formulation, nor does it report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities. [0019] Patent BR 102019009487-7 of 05/09/2019 refers to a method for extracting aromatic substances from the endocarp of the cocoa fruit, cocoa pulp and/or cocoa honey for the manufacture of Essences and Extracts, of perfumes, colognes and natural cocoa eau de toilette. Fragrances contain aromas (smells) and/or flavors of fruits naturally produced by the cocoa endocarp and pulp. The inventors describe that the extraction of these substances is done directly with alcohol, in the case of the fruit endocarp, for the production of colonies and toilet water. Therefore, it does not refer to the base cosmetic formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts, nor does it report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities. [0020] Patent DE202005004609 of 03/21/2005 refers to the cosmetic massage composition for the skin which contains chocolate cream and olive oil, this massage being mainly indicated to stimulate the production of the hormone serotonin in the body. However, it does not report the presence of cocoa honey or its extracts in its base formulation, nor does it report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities.
[0021 ] A patente RO11228256 de 27/1 1/2000 se refere a um creme cosmético antirrugas que apresenta efeitos regenerativos e hidratantes sobre a epiderme, formulado com argila associada ao ácido ferúlico - complexo de extrato de arroz, extrato de ginseng, de vitamina E, de vitamina A, óleo de calêndula, óleo de abacate e de óleo de germe de trigo, incorporado em uma pomada hidratada base compreendendo 2,5% de uma mistura de álcool cetearílico e polietoxilado de éter cetearílico com n = 20, 2,5% de estearato de glicerila, 1 ,0% de álcoois graxos, 1 ,0% de manteiga de cacau, 0,5% de óleo de silicone, 1 ,0% de emulsão de poliacrilamida, 2,0% glicerina, 3,0% colágeno, 0,10% de palmitato de ascorbila, 0,15% de trietanolamina, 0,10% de um sal de sódio do ácido etilenodiamino tetra-acético e 0,05% de butilhidroxianisol, sendo a porcentagem expressa em peso. Assim, não utiliza na sua composição a forma cosmética base contendo mel de cacau ou seus extratos. [0021] Patent RO11228256 of 27/1 1/2000 refers to an anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream that has regenerative and moisturizing effects on the epidermis, formulated with clay associated with ferulic acid - complex of rice extract, ginseng extract, vitamin E, vitamin A, calendula oil, avocado oil and wheat germ oil, incorporated into a hydrated ointment base comprising 2.5% of a mixture of cetearyl alcohol and polyethoxylated cetearyl ether with n = 20.2, 5% glyceryl stearate, 1.0% fatty alcohols, 1.0% cocoa butter, 0.5% silicone oil, 1.0% polyacrylamide emulsion, 2.0% glycerin, 3, 0% collagen, 0.10% ascorbyl palmitate, 0.15% triethanolamine, 0.10% of a sodium salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and 0.05% of butylhydroxyanisole, the percentage being expressed by weight. Therefore, it does not use the base cosmetic form containing cocoa honey or its extracts in its composition.
[0022] A patente KR101222673 de 22/07/2011 se refere à uma composição cosmética, um extrato de mistura de ervas utilizada para aliviar a irritação do couro cabeludo após a tintura de cabelo e para garantir o efeito condicionador. Contém extratos de Symphytum officinale, Platycodon grandiflorum, Theobroma cacao e Eclipta prostrate como ingrediente ativo. Os extratos são preparados independentemente usando água, álcool de cadeia C1 -C3 ou uma mistura dos mesmos. A composição cosmética é fabricada na forma de um creme, um amaciante de pele, um adstringente, uma loção, uma base, sabão ou espuma de limpeza. Portanto, não se refere à formulação base contendo o mel de cacau ou seus extratos, bem como não relata atividades antioxidante, anti-inflamatória e antimicrobiana. [0022] Patent KR101222673 of 07/22/2011 refers to a cosmetic composition, an extract of a mixture of herbs used to relieve scalp irritation after hair dyeing and to guarantee the conditioning effect. Contains extracts of Symphytum officinale, Platycodon grandiflorum, Theobroma cacao and Eclipta prostrate as active ingredients. Extracts are prepared independently using water, C1 -C3 chain alcohol or a mixture thereof. The cosmetic composition is manufactured in the form of a cream, a skin softener, an astringent, a lotion, a foundation, soap or cleansing foam. Therefore, it does not refer to the base formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts, nor does it report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities.
[0023] A patente RU94004559 de 09/02/1994 trata de um creme cosmético contendo a seguinte proporção de componentes em peso: lanolina 1 ,8-2, 5%; cera de emulsão 3,0- 4,2%; óleo de cacau 3, 0-4, 2%; glicerol 3, 0-4, 2%; óleo de amêndoa 12,0-16,6%; tintura de resina de benzeno 0,95-1 ,2%; vitamina A 80000-120000 U; vitamina 40000-60000 U; princípio aromático 0,14-0,22 e água destilada. Este creme apresenta ação curativa e cosmética sobre a pele. Entretanto, não relata atividade antioxidante e não declara a presença de mel de cacau ou seus extratos. [0023] Patent RU94004559 of 02/09/1994 deals with a cosmetic cream containing the following proportion of components by weight: lanolin 1.8-2.5%; emulsion wax 3.0- 4.2%; cocoa oil 3.0-4.2%; glycerol 3.0-4.2%; almond oil 12.0-16.6%; benzene resin dye 0.95-1.2%; vitamin A 80000-120000 U; vitamin 40000-60000 U; aromatic principle 0.14-0.22 and distilled water. This cream has a healing and cosmetic action on the skin. However, it does not report antioxidant activity and does not declare the presence of cocoa honey or its extracts.
[0024] A patente EA025061 de 04/02/2013 descreve uma composição para preparação de um creme terapêutico e cosmético à base de componentes naturais biologicamente ativos, destinados ao tratamento de lesões cutâneas, dermatose, eliminação de descamação, remoção de comedões superficiais, nutrição e recuperação facial pele, nomeados cremes de emulsão água-óleo. O creme contém fito complexo de plantas medicinais de alcaçuz, chá verde, Salvia officinalis, alecrim, tomado em partes iguais na forma de emulsão água-álcool-óleo com teor de álcool etílico a 40% e óleo de amêndoa na proporção de 2:3, onde o creme também contém ácido glicirrízico, emulsificante T2 em mistura com manteiga de cacau na proporção de 1 :1 , nipagina, cera de abelha, vitamina E, vitamina C, propilenoglicol, alecrim óleo essencial como odorante, água purificada com a seguinte proporção quantitativa de ingredientes em peso: água-álcool- extrato de óleo de plantas medicinais na proporção 1 :1 :1 -50-60; ácido glicirrízico 0,1 -0,2; emulsionante T2 em mistura com manteiga de cacau na proporção 1 :1 -11 -22; vitamina E - 0,1 -0,3; vitamina C - 0,1 -0,3; cera de abelha - 5, 0-7,0; propilenoglicol - 3, 0-5,0; óleo essencial de alecrim como odorante - 1 , 0-2,0; nipagina - 0,03-0,05; água purificada. Portanto, declara o mel de cacau ou seus extratos. [0025] A patente UA81345C2 de 06/03/2006 se refere a um creme cosmético para peeling com componente abrasivo e base gordurosa que contém sal marinho moído como componente abrasivo, base gordurosa de óleos vegetais finos e gorduras vegetais, tais como, óleo de jojoba, óleo de amêndoa, óleo de trigo, manteiga de cacau. Além disso, contém aditivo bioativo contendo óleo vegetal em uma quantidade de 75,0% a 85,0% da quantidade total de aditivo bioativo como veículo, concentrado de óleo de espinheiro-mar e composição de quantidade eficaz de óleos essenciais. Mas, não declara a formulação base contendo o mel de cacau ou seus extratos, bem como não menciona atividade antioxidante, anti-inflamatória e antimicrobiana. [0024] Patent EA025061 of 02/04/2013 describes a composition for preparing a therapeutic and cosmetic cream based on biologically active natural components, intended for the treatment of skin lesions, dermatosis, elimination of scaling, removal of superficial comedones, nutrition and facial skin recovery, named water-oil emulsion creams. The cream contains phyto complex of medicinal plants of licorice, green tea, Salvia officinalis, rosemary, taken in equal parts in the form of a water-alcohol-oil emulsion with a content of 40% ethyl alcohol and almond oil in a ratio of 2:3 , where the cream also contains glycyrrhizic acid, T2 emulsifier in a mixture with cocoa butter in a 1:1 ratio, nipagin, beeswax, vitamin E, vitamin C, propylene glycol, rosemary essential oil as odorant, purified water with the following proportion quantitative of ingredients by weight: water-alcohol-oil extract of medicinal plants in the proportion 1 :1 :1 -50-60; glycyrrhizic acid 0.1 -0.2; T2 emulsifier mixed with cocoa butter in a ratio of 1:1 -11 -22; vitamin E - 0.1 -0.3; vitamin C - 0.1 -0.3; beeswax - 5.0-7.0; propylene glycol - 3.0-5.0; rosemary essential oil as an odorant - 1.0-2.0; nipagin - 0.03-0.05; purified water. Therefore, it declares cocoa honey or its extracts. [0025] Patent UA81345C2 of 03/06/2006 refers to a cosmetic cream for peeling with an abrasive component and a fatty base that contains ground sea salt as an abrasive component, a fatty base of fine vegetable oils and vegetable fats, such as olive oil. jojoba, almond oil, wheat oil, cocoa butter. In addition, it contains bioactive additive containing vegetable oil in an amount of 75.0% to 85.0% of the total amount of bioactive additive as a carrier, sea buckthorn oil concentrate and composition of effective amount of essential oils. However, it does not declare the base formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts, nor does it mention antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.
[0026] A patente RU2160082C1 de 14/03/2000 descreve um creme cosmético contendo lanolina, óleo de cacau, espermacete, azeite de oliva, vitamina A e água, suplementado com cera de abelha, bórax, óleo de rícino e vitaminas A e D em proporções especificadas. Tem como função a eliminação acelerada de ressecamento e descamação da pele. Entretanto, não declara ação antioxidante e não relata a forma cosmética base contendo mel de cacau ou seus extratos. [0026] Patent RU2160082C1 dated 03/14/2000 describes a cosmetic cream containing lanolin, cocoa oil, spermaceti, olive oil, vitamin A and water, supplemented with beeswax, borax, castor oil and vitamins A and D in specified proportions. Its function is to accelerate the elimination of dryness and flaking of the skin. However, it does not declare antioxidant action and does not report the base cosmetic form containing cocoa honey or its extracts.
[0027] A patente CN107822998A de 10/12/2017 descreve um creme clareador e hidratante contendo extrato de fruta paullinia cupana. O creme é composto por ingredientes ativos clareadores e hidratantes, além de outros ingredientes cosméticos convencionais. Os ingredientes são extrato da fruta Paullinia cupana, o polissacarídeo lycium barbarum, respectivamente, na proporção de 0,5-2% e 0,5-1 ,5% em massa. Mas, não contém mel de cacau ou seus extratos. [0027] Patent CN107822998A of 12/10/2017 describes a whitening and moisturizing cream containing paullinia cupana fruit extract. The cream is composed of whitening and moisturizing active ingredients, in addition to other conventional cosmetic ingredients. The ingredients are Paullinia cupana fruit extract, lycium barbarum polysaccharide, respectively, in the proportion of 0.5-2% and 0.5-1.5% by mass. But, it does not contain cocoa honey or its extracts.
[0028] A patente RO130734A0 de 1 1/02/2015 trata um creme cosmético destinado a pessoas com mais de 30 anos de idade. De acordo com a invenção, o creme contém 0,1 -5% de colesterol, 1 -5,5% de cetáceo, 1 -5,5% de álcool cetoestearílico, 0,5-5% de ácido esteárico, 2,5-40% de azeite , 3-10% de cera amarela e butil cacau, 0,1 -35% de óleo de espinheiro e óleo de amêndoa, óleo de argan, 1 -5% de óleo de laranja, 0,1 -5,5% de coenzima Q e 3% água bórax. Assim, não utiliza na sua composição base o mel de cacau ou seus extratos. [0028] Patent RO130734A0 of 02/1/2015 deals with a cosmetic cream intended for people over 30 years of age. According to the invention, the cream contains 0.1 -5% cholesterol, 1 -5.5% cetacean, 1 -5.5% cetostearyl alcohol, 0.5-5% stearic acid, 2.5 -40% olive oil, 3-10% yellow wax and cocoa butyl, 0.1 -35% sea buckthorn oil and almond oil, argan oil, 1 -5% orange oil, 0.1 -5 .5% coenzyme Q and 3% borax water. Therefore, it does not use cocoa honey or its extracts in its base composition.
[0029] A patente WO2019/000067 de 30/06/2017 descreve uma composição cosmética de correção de tom de pele. A invenção trata de composições cosméticas contendo um complexo antioxidante e agente(s) condicionante(s), na forma de um creme de correção de tom de pele (ou "Color Control Cream" ou "CC cream"), que proporciona efeitos de detoxificação celular, oxigenação celular. Portanto, não trata de formulação base contendo mel de cacau ou seus extratos. [0029] Patent WO2019/000067 of 06/30/2017 describes a cosmetic composition for correcting skin tone. The invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing a antioxidant complex and conditioning agent(s), in the form of a skin tone correction cream (or "Color Control Cream" or "CC cream"), which provides cellular detoxification and cellular oxygenation effects. Therefore, it does not contain a base formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts.
[0030] A patente MX2018003120 de 13/03/2018 se refere a uma composição cosmética para aplicação tópica de dez ingredientes e água, que são aditivos cosméticos e substâncias que promovem a luminosidade, maciez, umectação e melhora da pele quanto à presença de rugas. Especificamente, contém álcool cetílico (1 ,2% - 2,0%), ácido esteárico (4,16% - 6,0%), glicerina (7,0% - 9,0%) e um extrato de Alloispermum Integrifolium (0,1 % - 2,5%). O extrato contém vários derivados de quercetagetina e quercetina (fenóis e flavonóides totais de 106,8 mg ± 5,30 mg ácido gálico / 100 ge 305 mg ± 14,7 mg catequina / 100 g). Além disso, as substâncias de suporte são manteiga de cacau (0,2% - 2,0%), propilparabeno (0,05%), metilparabeno (0,20%), óleo de amêndoa (2,0% - 3,0%), trietanolamina (0,50% - 1 ,0% ) e essência (0,001 %). Mas, não declara em sua formulação o mel de cacau ou seus extratos, bem como não menciona atividade antioxidante. [0030] Patent MX2018003120 of 03/13/2018 refers to a cosmetic composition for topical application of ten ingredients and water, which are cosmetic additives and substances that promote luminosity, softness, moisture and improve the skin in terms of the presence of wrinkles . Specifically, it contains cetyl alcohol (1.2% - 2.0%), stearic acid (4.16% - 6.0%), glycerin (7.0% - 9.0%), and an extract of Alloispermum Integrifolium ( 0.1% - 2.5%). The extract contains various quercetin and quercetin derivatives (total phenols and flavonoids of 106.8 mg ± 5.30 mg gallic acid / 100 g and 305 mg ± 14.7 mg catechin / 100 g). Additionally, supporting substances are cocoa butter (0.2% - 2.0%), propylparaben (0.05%), methylparaben (0.20%), almond oil (2.0% - 3.0%), 0%), triethanolamine (0.50% - 1.0%) and essence (0.001%). However, it does not declare cocoa honey or its extracts in its formulation, nor does it mention antioxidant activity.
[0031 ] A patente RU2625738 de 15/04/2016 descreve um creme íntimo para mulheres. Este consiste de uma base cosmética combinada, incluindo manteiga de cacau, cera de abelha, lecitina, extrato de abelhas mortas, extrato de colas de abelhas, mel, óleo de hypericum, óleo de cedro, vitamina PP, vitamina E, óleo essencial da árvore do chá, óleo de cade e pantoato biologicamente ativo, material vegetal, incluindo extratos de chifres de veado de Altai, extrato de ortilia, extrato de trevo, extrato de milfoil e extrato de fungo de prateleira. Os inventores descrevem que a invenção proporciona a otimização da composição formulada com a consequente melhoria nas características naturais e ambientais do produto cosmético íntimo para mulheres, bem como, a harmonização da vida íntima feminina. Portanto, não descreve formulação base contendo o mel de cacau ou seus extratos na sua composição. [0031] Patent RU2625738 of 04/15/2016 describes an intimate cream for women. This consists of a combined cosmetic base including cocoa butter, beeswax, lecithin, dead bee extract, bee cola extract, honey, hypericum oil, cedar oil, vitamin PP, vitamin E, essential tree oil of tea, cade oil and biologically active pantoate, plant material including Altai deer antler extracts, ortilia extract, clover extract, milfoil extract and shelf fungus extract. The inventors describe that the invention provides the optimization of the formulated composition with the consequent improvement in the natural and environmental characteristics of the intimate cosmetic product for women, as well as the harmonization of female intimate life. Therefore, it does not describe a base formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts in its composition.
[0032] A patente RU2625502 de 12/04/2016 descreve um método de produção de creme cosmético de contato íntimo para homens voltado para higiene íntima, consistindo de uma base cosmética combinada, incluindo manteiga de cacau, cera de abelha, lecitina, extrato de abelha morta, extrato de cola de abelha, mel, óleo de hypericum, óleo de cedro, vitamina PP, vitamina E, óleo essencial da árvore do chá, óleo de cade e pantoato biologicamente ativo - material vegetal, incluindo extratos de chifres de veado de Altai, extrato de ervilhaca, extrato de trevo, extrato de urtiga. Os inventores descrevem que a invenção proporciona otimização da composição formulada e harmoniza a vida íntima do homem. Portanto, não trata da formulação base contendo o mel de cacau ou seus extratos. [0032] Patent RU2625502 of 04/12/2016 describes a method of producing intimate contact cosmetic cream for men aimed at intimate hygiene, consisting of a combined cosmetic base, including cocoa butter, beeswax, lecithin, dead bee extract, bee glue extract, honey, hypericum oil, cedar oil, vitamin PP, vitamin E, tea tree essential oil, cade oil and biologically active pantoate - plant material, including extracts of horns Altai deer, vetch extract, clover extract, nettle extract. The inventors describe that the invention provides optimization of the formulated composition and harmonizes man's intimate life. Therefore, it does not address the base formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts.
[0033] A patente CN108175740 de 29/01/2018 divulga um creme reparador capaz de prevenir e remover eficazmente as estrias gravídicas. O creme reparador compreende os seguintes componentes por porcentagem de peso: 3-6% de óleo de semente de groselha preta, 2-4% de manteiga de fruta butyrospermum parkii, 3-6% de óleo de fruta olea europaea, 2-4% de manteiga de cacau, 17,5-35% de uma composição (1 ) para remoção de estrias gravídicas e 9-22% de uma composição (2) para remoção de estrias gravídicas; em que a composição (1 ) para remoção de estrias gravídicas é composta por 5-10% de aspartato de hidroxiprolina de metilsilanol, 2,5-5% de colágeno e 10-20% de beta-glucano; a composição de remoção de estrias gravídicas (2) é composta por 3-10% de um extrato de produto de fermentação de pseudoalteromonas, 3-6% de acetil tripeptídeo-1 , 2-4% de um extrato de gotu kola e 1 -2% de oligopeptídeo-1 . A invenção também fornece o método de preparação do creme reparador. Mas, não se refere a formulação contendo o mel de cacau ou seus extratos, bem como não relata atividade antioxidante, anti-inflamatória e antimicrobiana. [0033] Patent CN108175740 of 01/29/2018 discloses a repair cream capable of effectively preventing and removing stretch marks. The repair cream comprises the following components by weight percentage: 3-6% black currant seed oil, 2-4% butyrospermum parkii fruit butter, 3-6% olea europaea fruit oil, 2-4% of cocoa butter, 17.5-35% of a composition (1) for removing stretch marks and 9-22% of a composition (2) for removing stretch marks; wherein the composition (1) for removing stretch marks is composed of 5-10% methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartate, 2.5-5% collagen and 10-20% beta-glucan; the stretch mark removal composition (2) is composed of 3-10% of a pseudoalteromonas fermentation product extract, 3-6% of acetyl tripeptide-1, 2-4% of a gotu kola extract and 1 - 2% oligopeptide-1. The invention also provides the method of preparing the repair cream. However, it does not refer to the formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts, nor does it report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.
[0034] A patente RU2680517 de 26/09/2017 refere-se à cosmetologia curativa e cosméticos íntimos e apresenta o creme cosmético íntimo pan-terapêutico curativo- profilático para o método de produção de administração local, destinado ao fortalecimento do tom da pele, enchimento de células da epiderme com o conjunto equilibrado de nutrientes, manifestações de hemorroidas na prevenção das mucosas do reto, proteção contra microtraumas e fissuras anais, no primeiro estágio consistindo na preparação de base cosmética combinada pela alimentação da manteiga de cacau e cera de abelha. Portanto, não se refere à formulação base contendo o mel de cacau ou seus extratos, bem como não relata atividade antioxidante, anti-inflamatória e antimicrobiana. [0034] Patent RU2680517 of 09/26/2017 refers to curative cosmetology and intimate cosmetics and presents the curative-prophylactic pan-therapeutic intimate cosmetic cream for the local administration production method, intended for strengthening skin tone, filling of cells of the epidermis with the balanced set of nutrients, manifestations of hemorrhoids in the prevention of rectal mucous membranes, protection against microtraumas and anal fissures, in the first stage consisting of the preparation of a cosmetic base combined by feeding cocoa butter and beeswax. Therefore, it does not refer to the base formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts, as well as does not report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.
[0035] A patente RU268541 1 de 29/08/2018 se refere à cosméticos e apresenta creme anti-envelhecimento para lifting facial contendo infusão de chá verde, manteiga de cacau, óleo de macadâmia, triglicerídeos caprílico/cáprico, glicerol, álcool cetearílico, monoestearato de glicerol, polímero cruzado de acrílico/vinil isodecanoato, ácido hialurônico, retinol, vitamina E, ácido ascórbico, uma fragrância, ácido benzóico, ácido sórbico, ácido desidroacetônico, álcool benzílico, corante e água, em que os componentes do creme estão em uma certa proporção em peso. Os inventores descrevem que a invenção fornece produtos para a pele, tendo ação regenerativa, ação rejuvenescedora da pele e restaurando seu turgor. Assim, não trata de formulação base contendo o mel de cacau ou seus extratos, bem como não relata atividade antioxidante, anti-inflamatória e antimicrobiana. [0035] Patent RU268541 1 of 08/29/2018 refers to cosmetics and presents anti-aging cream for face lifting containing green tea infusion, cocoa butter, macadamia oil, caprylic/capric triglycerides, glycerol, cetearyl alcohol, glycerol monostearate, acrylic/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, hyaluronic acid, retinol, vitamin E, ascorbic acid, a fragrance, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, dehydroacetonic acid, benzyl alcohol, dye and water, in which the components of the cream are in a certain proportion by weight. The inventors describe that the invention provides skin products, having regenerative action, rejuvenating action on the skin and restoring its turgor. Therefore, it does not contain a base formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts, nor does it report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.
[0036] A patente RU2694898 de 29/08/2018 descreve um creme a laser anticelulite para áreas problemáticas, compreendendo infusão de chá verde, infusão de rosa mosqueta, manteiga de cacau, óleo de amêndoa, triglicérides caprílico/cáprico, glicerina, álcool cetearílico, monoestearato de glicerina, óleo de café, polímero cruzado de isodecanoato de acrílico/vinil, óleo de papoula, extrato de bagas de goji, extrato de guaraná, ácido linolênico, ácido linoléico, ácido oléico, L-carnitina, uma fragrância, ácido benzóico, ácido sórbico, ácido desidroacetônico, álcool benzílico, corante Cl 75125 e água, em que os componentes do creme estão em uma certa proporção em peso. Entretanto, não apresenta formulação base contendo o mel de cacau ou seus extratos, bem como não relata atividade antioxidante, anti-inflamatória e antimicrobiana. [0036] Patent RU2694898 of 08/29/2018 describes an anti-cellulite laser cream for problem areas, comprising green tea infusion, rosehip infusion, cocoa butter, almond oil, caprylic/capric triglycerides, glycerin, cetearyl alcohol , glycerin monostearate, coffee oil, acrylic/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, poppy oil, goji berry extract, guarana extract, linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, L-carnitine, a fragrance, benzoic acid , sorbic acid, dehydroacetonic acid, benzyl alcohol, Cl 75125 dye and water, in which the cream components are in a certain proportion by weight. However, it does not have a base formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts, nor does it report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.
[0037] A patente CN10781 1920 de 29/1 1/2017 se refere a um creme energético de purificação, que é preparado a partir dos seguintes componentes em porcentagem em massa: 10% de água, 3% de glicerina, 2% de propilenoglicol, 3% de miristato de isopropila, 70% de extrato de rizoma de taraxacum officinale, 2% de extrato de butyrospermum parkii, 5% de lipídio de semente de cacau e 5% de goma xantana. A invenção tem um efeito de melhoria no cuidado diário de peles, dragagem de seios femininos e caroços de pele, é preparado a partir de matérias primas seguras sem efeitos colaterais e pode ser usado para cuidado diário. Assim, não se trata de formulação base contendo o mel de cacau ou seus extratos, bem como não relata atividade antioxidante, anti-inflamatória e antimicrobiana. [0037] Patent CN10781 1920 of 29/1 1/2017 refers to an energy purifying cream, which is prepared from the following components in percentage by mass: 10% water, 3% glycerin, 2% propylene glycol , 3% isopropyl myristate, 70% taraxacum officinale rhizome extract, 2% butyrospermum parkii extract, 5% cocoa seed lipid and 5% xanthan gum. The invention has an improving effect on daily skin care, breast dredging female and skin lumps, it is prepared from safe raw materials without side effects and can be used for daily care. Therefore, it is not a base formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts, nor does it report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.
[0038] A patente WO2016201506 de 15/06/2016 apresenta um método para nutrir a pele humana e um kit para o próprio usuário preparar uma formulação de creme nutritivo para a pele. Descrevem qual a quantidade terapêutica eficaz do creme que é aplicada à pele em tratamento. O creme está na forma de emulsão, tendo uma fase à base de óleo compreendendo uma cera emulsificante e um agente terapêutico selecionado de: óleo de macadâmia, óleo de amêndoa doce, óleo de abacate, óleo de coco, manteiga de karité, cacau, extrato de alecrim e suas combinações. A fase aquosa contém um emoliente, em particular glicerina. Portanto, não utiliza na formulação o mel de cacau ou seus extratos, bem como não relata atividade antioxidante, anti-inflamatória e antimicrobiana. [0038] Patent WO2016201506 of 06/15/2016 presents a method for nourishing human skin and a kit for the user to prepare a nourishing cream formulation for the skin. They describe the effective therapeutic amount of the cream that is applied to the skin being treated. The cream is in emulsion form, having an oil-based phase comprising an emulsifying wax and a therapeutic agent selected from: macadamia oil, sweet almond oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, shea butter, cocoa, extract of rosemary and its combinations. The aqueous phase contains an emollient, in particular glycerin. Therefore, it does not use cocoa honey or its extracts in the formulation, nor does it report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.
[0039] A patente CN106420378 de 28/12/2016 pertence ao campo técnico de produtos de maquiagem para cosméticos e, em particular, refere-se a um creme bronzeador e a um método de preparação do creme bronzeador. O creme bronzeador é preparado, principalmente, a partir de 10-20% de monosterato de poliglicerol, 10-15% de palmitato de etilhexil, 5-10% de isononanoato de isononil, 4-8% de etiecelulose, 5-10% de cacau em pó, 2-5% de ácido de alga de sódio, 3-7% de ácido hialurônico, 5-12% de dióxido de titânio, 7-12% de ácido tereftalilideno dicamfor sulfonado, 3-5% de vitamina E3, 5-10% de málico ácido, 0,5-1 ,5% de conservante e 10-20% de água. Os inventores descrevem que o creme tem alto nível de segurança e pode reduzir a carga sobre a pele; além disso, o creme bronzeador dissimulador tem bons efeitos bronzeadores após o uso. Mas, não declara na formulação mel de cacau ou seus derivados, ou qualquer outro compotente de cacau na sua composição. [0039] Patent CN106420378 of 12/28/2016 belongs to the technical field of cosmetic makeup products and, in particular, refers to a tanning cream and a method of preparing the tanning cream. The tanning cream is mainly prepared from 10-20% polyglycerol monosterate, 10-15% ethylhexyl palmitate, 5-10% isononyl isononanoate, 4-8% ethyl cellulose, 5-10% cocoa powder, 2-5% sodium algae acid, 3-7% hyaluronic acid, 5-12% titanium dioxide, 7-12% dicamphor sulfonated terephthalylidene acid, 3-5% vitamin E3, 5-10% malic acid, 0.5-1.5% preservative and 10-20% water. The inventors describe that the cream has a high level of safety and can reduce the burden on the skin; Furthermore, the concealing tanning cream has good tanning effects after use. However, the formulation does not declare cocoa honey or its derivatives, or any other cocoa ingredient in its composition.
[0040] A patente GB2582142 de 12/03/2019 se refere a uma composição cosmética sólida contendo manteiga vegetal, bicarbonato de sódio e creme de tártaro. A manteiga vegetal pode ser manteiga de cacau ou manteiga de ilipe e constitui de 40 a 60% em peso da composição. O bicarbonato de sódio é de 10 a 20% em peso da composição. O creme de tártaro é de 8 a 18% em peso da composição. A composição pode ainda compreender um surfactante, tal como um polioxiéter de álcool laurílico (por exemplo, Laureth 4). A composição pode ainda compreender um ou mais de um corante, aglutinante, enchimento, perfume ou item decorativo. Assim, não se trata de formulação contendo o mel de cacau ou seus extratos, bem como não relata atividade antioxidante, anti-inflamatória e antimicrobiana. [0040] Patent GB2582142 of 03/12/2019 refers to a solid cosmetic composition containing vegetable butter, sodium bicarbonate and cream of tartar. The vegetable butter can be cocoa butter or illipe butter and constitutes 40 to 60% by weight of the composition. Sodium bicarbonate is 10 to 20% by weight of the composition. O cream of tartar is 8 to 18% by weight of the composition. The composition may further comprise a surfactant, such as a lauryl alcohol polyoxyether (e.g., Laureth 4). The composition may further comprise one or more of a dye, binder, filler, perfume or decorative item. Therefore, it is not a formulation containing cocoa honey or its extracts, nor does it report antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.
[0041 ] As formulações apresentadas diferem das existentes por apresentarem nas suas caracterizações compostos orgânicos bioativos voláteis e não voláteis, aminoácidos, vitaminas e minerais do mel de cacau ou seus extratos. [0041] The formulations presented differ from existing ones because their characterizations present volatile and non-volatile bioactive organic compounds, amino acids, vitamins and minerals from cocoa honey or its extracts.
[0042] Além disso, outra vantagem é a alta estabilidade dos ativos, atividade antioxidante, antimicrobiana e anti-inflamatória, apresentam como benefícios o efeito de hidratação e limpeza da pele e, auxilia na redução e prevenção de acne. A textura é leve, tem efeito firmador e nutritivo. Mais ainda, não contém elementos tóxicos para o meio ambiente e organismo humano, que utiliza matéria-prima vegetal, de origem agrícola natural, e utiliza resíduos agrícolas que seriam descartados no ambiente, contribuindo para a sustentabilidade. [0042] Furthermore, another advantage is the high stability of the active ingredients, antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity, which have the benefits of hydrating and cleansing the skin and helping to reduce and prevent acne. The texture is light, has a firming and nourishing effect. Furthermore, it does not contain toxic elements for the environment and human organism, it uses plant raw materials, of natural agricultural origin, and uses agricultural waste that would be discarded in the environment, contributing to sustainability.
Breve descrição dos desenhos Brief description of the drawings
Figura 1. Amostras de mel de cacau in natura após ajuste de pH. A: pH 3,6 - 5,0. B: pH 3,6 - 5,5. C: pH 3,6 - 6,0. Figure 1. Samples of fresh cocoa honey after pH adjustment. A: pH 3.6 - 5.0. B: pH 3.6 - 5.5. C: pH 3.6 - 6.0.
Figura 2. Ensaio de determinação da viscosidade do mel de cacau in natura. Figure 2. Test to determine the viscosity of fresh cocoa honey.
Figura 3. Teste in vitro do potencial irritante do ingrediente cosmético mel de cacau de acordo com a metodologia OECD 439. Figure 3. In vitro test of the irritant potential of the cosmetic ingredient cocoa honey according to the OECD 439 methodology.
Figura 4. Emulsões: Emulsão A: 5% mel de cacau; emulsão B: 20% mel de cacau; emulsão C: 50% mel de cacau e emulsão D: 100% mel de cacau. Figure 4. Emulsions: Emulsion A: 5% cocoa honey; emulsion B: 20% cocoa honey; emulsion C: 50% cocoa honey and emulsion D: 100% cocoa honey.
Figura 5. Emulsões de diferentes valores de pH contendo o mel de cacau na proporção de 100% da fase aquosa substituindo a água. Figure 5. Emulsions of different pH values containing cocoa honey in a proportion of 100% of the aqueous phase replacing water.
Figura 6. Emulsões contendo mel de cacau em diferentes proporções submetidas ao ensaio de centrifugação por 30 min a 3.000 rpm. Figure 6. Emulsions containing cocoa honey in different proportions subjected to the centrifugation test for 30 min at 3,000 rpm.
Figura 7. Emulsão contendo o mel de cacau em diferentes proporções que foram submetidas ao ensaio de viscosidade. Descrição da invenção Figure 7. Emulsion containing cocoa honey in different proportions that were subjected to the viscosity test. Description of the invention
[0043] A presente invenção tem por objetivo apresentar formulações cosméticas, motivo deste pedido de patente, desenvolvidas para aplicação em produtos, tal como, mas não limitado a, creme facial e corporal, máscara facial, loção hidratante facial e corporal, água micelar, solução facial antioxidante, shampoo, condicionador, máscara capilar, sabonete, capaz de hidratar, realizar assepsia, promover a regeneração celular, a limpeza e a remoção de oleosidade da pele e/ou couro cabeludo. [0043] The present invention aims to present cosmetic formulations, the reason for this patent application, developed for application in products, such as, but not limited to, facial and body cream, facial mask, facial and body moisturizing lotion, micellar water, antioxidant facial solution, shampoo, conditioner, hair mask, soap, capable of hydrating, performing asepsis, promoting cell regeneration, cleaning and removing oil from the skin and/or scalp.
[0044] As formulações cosméticas contém, além do mel de cacau ou seus extratos, Olivem 1000, ácido esteárico, ácido lático, vitamina E, manteiga de bacuri, manteiga de cupuaçu, manteiga de cacau, óleo de licuri, óleo de babaçu, sequestrante verde (gluconato de sódio), espessante verde (goma sclerotium), emulsionante de citróleo. [0044] The cosmetic formulations contain, in addition to cocoa honey or its extracts, Olivem 1000, stearic acid, lactic acid, vitamin E, bacuri butter, cupuaçu butter, cocoa butter, licuri oil, babassu oil, sequestrant green (sodium gluconate), green thickener (sclerotium gum), citroleum emulsifier.
[0045] As formulações cosméticas apresentam na sua composição compostos orgânicos bioativos não-voláteis, fibras, vitaminas A, C, complexo B, aminoácidos, minerais essenciais como potássio, sódio, cálcio, ferro, manganês e zinco, diferentes classes de compostos bioativos como fenóis simples, ácidos fenólicos, acetofenonas, ácidos fenilacéticos, ácidos hidroxicinâmicos, fenilpropenos e flavonoides. [0045] Cosmetic formulations have in their composition non-volatile bioactive organic compounds, fibers, vitamins A, C, B complex, amino acids, essential minerals such as potassium, sodium, calcium, iron, manganese and zinc, different classes of bioactive compounds such as simple phenols, phenolic acids, acetophenones, phenylacetic acids, hydroxycinnamic acids, phenylpropenes and flavonoids.
[0046] As formulações apresentam a seguinte composição: mel de cacau ou seus extratos, óleo vegetal, manteiga vegetal, emulsificante, antioxidante, sequestrante verde, espessante verde, emulsionante com propriedades hidratante, antioxidante, antimicrobiana e anti-inflamatória associadas ao mel de cacau ou seus extratos. [0046] The formulations have the following composition: cocoa honey or its extracts, vegetable oil, vegetable butter, emulsifier, antioxidant, green sequestrant, green thickener, emulsifier with moisturizing, antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties associated with cocoa honey or its extracts.
[0047] O produto do tipo condicionador, shampoo, sabonete, água facial ou micelar foram preparados combinando os seguintes componentes, considerando o peso total: veículo (0% a 100%), mel de cacau ou seus extratos (5% a 95%), tensoativos (0,5% a 28,0%), espessantes, (0,2% a 0,7%), emulsionantes (0,5% a 6,0%), emolientes (0,5% a 5,0%), umectantes (0,3% a 4,0%), antioxidante (0,01 % a 0,02%), conservante (0,01 % a 0,1 %) e fragrância (0,01 % a 0,5%). [0047] The conditioner, shampoo, soap, facial or micellar water product was prepared by combining the following components, considering the total weight: vehicle (0% to 100%), cocoa honey or its extracts (5% to 95% ), surfactants (0.5% to 28.0%), thickeners (0.2% to 0.7%), emulsifiers (0.5% to 6.0%), emollients (0.5% to 5 .0%), humectants (0.3% to 4.0%), antioxidant (0.01% to 0.02%), preservative (0.01% to 0.1%) and fragrance (0.01% to 0.5%).
[0048] Os produtos hidratante, creme ou sérum foram formulados combinando os seguintes componentes, considerando o peso total: veículo (0% a 10%), mel de cacau ou seus extratos (5% a 95%), tensoativos (0,5% a 28,0%), espessantes, (0,2% a 0,7%), emulsionantes (0,5% a 6,0%), emolientes (0,5% a 5,0%), umectantes (0,3% a 4,0%), antioxidante (0,01 % a 0,02%), conservante (0,01 % a 0,1 %) e fragrância (0,01 % a 0,5%). [0049] O produto creme resultante da formulação deverá ser aplicado na pele quando da necessidade de sua hidratação e/ou limpeza, a fim de evitar o ressecamento e os danos à pele causados por tais produtos à base de álcool ou outros produtos que agridem a pele. [0048] The moisturizing, cream or serum products were formulated by combining the following components, considering the total weight: vehicle (0% to 10%), cocoa honey or its extracts (5% to 95%), surfactants (0.5 % to 28.0%), thickeners, (0.2% to 0.7%), emulsifiers (0.5% to 6.0%), emollients (0.5% to 5.0%), humectants (0.3% to 4.0%), antioxidant (0.01% to 0.02% ), preservative (0.01% to 0.1%) and fragrance (0.01% to 0.5%). [0049] The cream product resulting from the formulation should be applied to the skin when it needs to be hydrated and/or cleansed, in order to avoid dryness and damage to the skin caused by such alcohol-based products or other products that harm the skin. skin.
[0050] Portanto, os cremes facial e corporal, as loções facial e corporal apresentam propriedade hidratante e benéfica à pele, apresenta textura leve. Por se tratar de um creme ou loção, apresenta longa duração sobre a pele, quando comparada com outros produtos disponíveis no mercado. [0050] Therefore, facial and body creams, facial and body lotions have moisturizing and beneficial properties for the skin, with a light texture. As it is a cream or lotion, it lasts a long time on the skin, when compared to other products available on the market.
Exemplos de concretização da invenção Examples of embodiment of the invention
[0051 ] Considerando que o mel de cacau ou seus extratos está sendo proposto como ingrediente cosmético pela primeira vez, foi feita a caracterização das suas propriedades físico-químicas e microbiológicas. As propriedades físico-químicas determinadas no mel de cacau foram: pH 3,4 - 3,6; densidade 1.065 - 1.074 g/mL; condutividade 190 - 221 mV; oxigênio dissolvido 6% - 15%; Brix 14 - 17%; turbidez 312 - 350 NTU; etanol de fermentação natural 3 - 9%; viscosidade 6,01 - 7,98 mPa. A Figura 1 exemplifica amostras de mel de cacau in natura após ajuste de pH. A: Mel de cacau com pH inicial de 3,6 e final de 5,0. B: Mel de cacau com pH inicial de 3,6 e final de 5,5. C: Mel de cacau com pH inicial de 3,6 e final de 6,0. [0051] Considering that cocoa honey or its extracts are being proposed as a cosmetic ingredient for the first time, the characterization of its physicochemical and microbiological properties was carried out. The physicochemical properties determined in cocoa honey were: pH 3.4 - 3.6; density 1,065 - 1,074 g/mL; conductivity 190 - 221 mV; dissolved oxygen 6% - 15%; Brix 14 - 17%; turbidity 312 - 350 NTU; natural fermentation ethanol 3 - 9%; viscosity 6.01 - 7.98 mPa. Figure 1 exemplifies samples of fresh cocoa honey after pH adjustment. A: Cocoa honey with an initial pH of 3.6 and a final pH of 5.0. B: Cocoa honey with an initial pH of 3.6 and a final pH of 5.5. C: Cocoa honey with an initial pH of 3.6 and a final pH of 6.0.
[0052] A caracterização química do mel de cacau determinou a concentração (Total) dos aminoácidos: ácido Aspártico 0,0477 g/100 g, ácido glutâmico (Total) 0,123 g/100 g, alanina <0,015 (LOQ)* g/100 g, arginina (Total) <0,01 (LOQ)* g/100 g, fenilalanina <0,031 (LOQ)* g/100 g, glicina <0,019 (LOQ)* g/100 g, hidroxiprolina <0,2 (LOQ)* g/100 g, histidina <0,02 (LOQ)* g/100 g, isoleucina <0,035 (LOQ)* g/100 g, leucina <0,015 (LOQ)* g/100 g, lisina (Total) <0,014 (LOQ)* g/100 g, ornitina <0,05 (LOQ)* g/100 g, prolina <0,02 (LOQ)* g/100 g, serina <0,016 (LOQ)* g/100 g, tirosina <0,023 (LOQ)* g/100 g, treonina 0,00660 g/100 g, valina <0,016 (LOQ)* g/100 g, cisteína + cistina <0,006 (LOQ)* g/100 g, metionina <0,024 (LOQ)* g/100 g e triptofano (total) <0,01 (LOQ)* g/100 g. [0053] A caracterização do mel de cacau determinou as vitaminas: vitamina B12 (cianocobalamina) <0,25 (LOQ)* pg/100 g, vitamina B5 (cálcio pantotenato) 0,0567 mg/100 g, vitamina B5 (Ácido pantotênico) 0,0522 mg/100 g, vitamina B6 (piridoxina) 0,0372 mg/100 g, vitamina B1 (tiamina base) 0,144 mg/100 g, vitamina B2 (riboflavina) 0,0103 mg/100 g, vitamina A (Retinol) <21 (LOQ)* pg/100 g, vitamina C 4,38 mg/100 g, vitamina B3 (Total Niacina) 0,534 mg/100 g. [0052] The chemical characterization of cocoa honey determined the concentration (Total) of amino acids: Aspartic acid 0.0477 g/100 g, glutamic acid (Total) 0.123 g/100 g, alanine <0.015 (LOQ)* g/100 g, arginine (Total) <0.01 (LOQ)* g/100 g, phenylalanine <0.031 (LOQ)* g/100 g, glycine <0.019 (LOQ)* g/100 g, hydroxyproline <0.2 (LOQ )* g/100 g, histidine <0.02 (LOQ)* g/100 g, isoleucine <0.035 (LOQ)* g/100 g, leucine <0.015 (LOQ)* g/100 g, lysine (Total) < 0.014 (LOQ)* g/100 g, ornithine <0.05 (LOQ)* g/100 g, proline <0.02 (LOQ)* g/100 g, serine <0.016 (LOQ)* g/100 g, tyrosine <0.023 (LOQ)* g/100 g, threonine 0.00660 g/100 g, valine <0.016 (LOQ)* g/100 g, cysteine + cystine <0.006 (LOQ)* g/100 g, methionine <0.024 (LOQ)* g/100 g and tryptophan (total) <0.01 (LOQ)* g/100 g. [0053] The characterization of cocoa honey determined the vitamins: vitamin B12 (cyanocobalamin) <0.25 (LOQ)* pg/100 g, vitamin B5 (calcium pantothenate) 0.0567 mg/100 g, vitamin B5 (Pantothenic acid ) 0.0522 mg/100 g, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine) 0.0372 mg/100 g, vitamin B1 (thiamine base) 0.144 mg/100 g, vitamin B2 (riboflavin) 0.0103 mg/100 g, vitamin A ( Retinol) <21 (LOQ)* pg/100 g, vitamin C 4.38 mg/100 g, vitamin B3 (Total Niacin) 0.534 mg/100 g.
[0054] A caracterização química do mel de cacau determinou os açúcares: frutose 4,98 g/100 g, galactose <0,10* (LOQ) g/100 g, glicose 4,90 g/100 g, lactose <0,10* (LOQ) g/100 g e sacarose 2,93 g/100 g. A concentração de açúcar total foi determinada por cromatografia iônica açúcar (Soma - total) 12,82 g/100 g. [0054] The chemical characterization of cocoa honey determined the sugars: fructose 4.98 g/100 g, galactose <0.10* (LOQ) g/100 g, glucose 4.90 g/100 g, lactose <0. 10* (LOQ) g/100 g and sucrose 2.93 g/100 g. The concentration of total sugar was determined by ion chromatography sugar (Sum - total) 12.82 g/100 g.
[0055] A caracterização química do mel de cacau determinou os ácidos orgânicos por HPLC-UV: ácido acético <0,20* (LOQ) g/100 g, ácido cítrico 0,73 g/100 g, ácido fórmico <0,10* (LOQ) g/100 g, ácido fumárico <0,10* (LOQ) g/100 g, ácido lático <0,05* (LOQ) g/100 g, ácido maleico <0,10* (LOQ) g/100 g, ácido málico 0,06 g/100 g, ácido propiônico <0,20* (LOQ) g/100 g, ácido succínico <0,20* (LOQ) g/100 g, ácido tartárico <0,10* (LOQ) g/100 g e ácido nbutírico <0,20* (LOQ) g/100 g. [0055] The chemical characterization of cocoa honey determined the organic acids by HPLC-UV: acetic acid <0.20* (LOQ) g/100 g, citric acid 0.73 g/100 g, formic acid <0.10 * (LOQ) g/100 g, fumaric acid <0.10* (LOQ) g/100 g, lactic acid <0.05* (LOQ) g/100 g, maleic acid <0.10* (LOQ) g /100 g, malic acid 0.06 g/100 g, propionic acid <0.20* (LOQ) g/100 g, succinic acid <0.20* (LOQ) g/100 g, tartaric acid <0.10 * (LOQ) g/100 g and nbutyric acid <0.20* (LOQ) g/100 g.
[0056] A caracterização do mel de cacau determinou os polifenóis totais: polifenóis calc. como ácido gálico equivalente 350 mg/kg, polifenóis calc. como ácido tânico equivalente 422 mg/kg, polifenóis calc. como catequina equivalente 279 mg/kg, polifenóis calc. como EGCG equivalente 508 mg/kg e polifenóis calc. como epicatequina equivalente 213 mg/kg. [0056] The characterization of cocoa honey determined the total polyphenols: calc polyphenols. as gallic acid equivalent 350 mg/kg, polyphenols calc. as tannic acid equivalent 422 mg/kg, polyphenols calc. as catechin equivalent 279 mg/kg, polyphenols calc. as EGCG equivalent 508 mg/kg and polyphenols calc. as epicatechin equivalent 213 mg/kg.
[0057] A caracterização química do mel de cacau determinou os metais (macro e micronutrientes): magnésio (Mg total) 301 ,084 mg/kg, manganês (Mn total) 1 ,164 mg/kg, molibdênio (Mo total) <0,045* (LOQ) mg/kg, potássio (K total) 272,375 mg/kg, sódio (Na total) <0,448* (LOQ) mg/kg, alumínio (Al total) 1 ,679 mg/kg, bário (Ba total) <0,560* (LOQ) mg/kg, cálcio (Ca total) 94,501 mg/kg, magnésio (Mg total) 301 ,084 mg/kg, manganês (Mn total) 1 ,164 mg/kg, molibdênio (Mo total) <0,045* (LOQ) mg/kg, arsênio (As total) <0,006* (LOQ) mg/kg, cádmio (Cd total) 0,011 mg/kg, cobre (Cu total) 0,948 mg/kg, ferro (Fe total) 3,022 mg/kg, chumbo (Pb total) <0,01 1 * (LOQ) mg/kg, mercúrio (Hg total) <0,002* (LOQ) mg/kg, fósforo (P total) 1 18,797 mg/kg, selênio (Se total) <0,1 12* (LOQ) mg/kg e zinco (Zn total) 2,589 mg/kg. [0057] The chemical characterization of cocoa honey determined the metals (macro and micronutrients): magnesium (total Mg) 301.084 mg/kg, manganese (total Mn) 1.164 mg/kg, molybdenum (total Mo) <0.045 * (LOQ) mg/kg, potassium (total K) 272.375 mg/kg, sodium (total Na) <0.448* (LOQ) mg/kg, aluminum (total Al) 1.679 mg/kg, barium (total Ba) <0.560* (LOQ) mg/kg, calcium (total Ca) 94.501 mg/kg, magnesium (total Mg) 301.084 mg/kg, manganese (total Mn) 1.164 mg/kg, molybdenum (total Mo) < 0.045* (LOQ) mg/kg, arsenic (total As) <0.006* (LOQ) mg/kg, cadmium (total Cd) 0.011 mg/kg, copper (total Cu) 0.948 mg/kg, iron (total Fe) 3.022 mg/kg, lead (total Pb) <0.01 1 * (LOQ) mg/kg, mercury (Total Hg) <0.002* (LOQ) mg/kg, Phosphorus (Total P) 1 18.797 mg/kg, Selenium (Total Se) <0.1 12* (LOQ) mg/kg and Zinc (Total Zn) 2.589 mg /kg.
[0058] A caracterização microbiológica do mel de cacau determinou: contagem de coliformes termotolerantes < 1 * ufc/mL, contagem de enterobactérias como enterobacteriaceae < 10* ufc/mL, contagem de coliformes totais < 1 * ufc/mL, contagem de bolores e leveduras, bolores > 450 ufc/mL e leveduras < 1 * ufc/mL, contagem de Escherichia coli < 1 * ufc/mL, contagem de Clostrídios sulfito redutores 5 ufc/mL, contagem de Listeria monocytogenes < 10* ufc/g, contagem de enterobactérias como enterobacteriaceae < 10* ufc/mL, contagem de aeróbios 30°C como contagem total de mesófilos 1700 ufc/mL, contagem de Staphylococcus coagulase positiva - Staphylococcus coag. posit. < 10* ufc/mL, contagem de bactérias láticas a 30°C < 10* ufc/mL, detecção de Salmonella em 25 ml - Salmonella spp., ausência /25 ml. [0058] The microbiological characterization of cocoa honey determined: thermotolerant coliform count < 1 * cfu/mL, enterobacteria count such as enterobacteriaceae < 10 * cfu/mL, total coliform count < 1 * cfu/mL, mold count and yeasts, molds > 450 cfu/mL and yeasts < 1 * cfu/mL, Escherichia coli count < 1 * cfu/mL, sulfite-reducing Clostridia count 5 cfu/mL, Listeria monocytogenes count < 10* cfu/g, count of enterobacteria such as enterobacteriaceae < 10* cfu/mL, aerobic count 30°C with total mesophilic count 1700 cfu/mL, positive coagulase Staphylococcus count - Staphylococcus coag. positive. < 10* cfu/mL, lactic acid bacteria count at 30°C < 10* cfu/mL, detection of Salmonella in 25 ml - Salmonella spp., absence /25 ml.
[0059] O teste de irritação cutânea realizado em modelo experimental de pele humana nativa, de acordo com a OECD TG 439, demonstrou que o mel de cacau não é irritante. [0060] A Figura 3 mostra o teste in vitro do potencial irritante do ingrediente cosmético mel de cacau de acordo com a metodologia OECD 439. Teste de avaliação do potencial irritante do mel de cacau, item de teste SUPPORT LAB - ARMAZENAMENTO -20 °C (mel de cacau), por meio da viabilidade tecidual (MTT) em cultura de pele humana após 15 min de contato. Os dados representam a média da porcentagem de viabilidade celular, média ± o desvio padrão, em relação ao respectivo controle negativo. [0059] The skin irritation test carried out on an experimental model of native human skin, in accordance with OECD TG 439, demonstrated that cocoa honey is not irritating. [0060] Figure 3 shows the in vitro test of the irritant potential of the cosmetic ingredient cocoa honey according to the OECD 439 methodology. Assessment test of the irritant potential of cocoa honey, test item SUPPORT LAB - STORAGE -20 °C (cocoa honey), through tissue viability (MTT) in human skin culture after 15 min of contact. The data represents the average percentage of cell viability, mean ± standard deviation, in relation to the respective negative control.
[0061 ] A viabilidade tecidual média do mel de cacau foi de 105-122% em comparação com o controle negativo, ou seja, além de não ser tóxico para o tecido, o mel de cacau promoveu um aumento na viabilidade celular. [0061] The average tissue viability of cocoa honey was 105-122% compared to the negative control, that is, in addition to not being toxic to the tissue, cocoa honey promoted an increase in cell viability.
[0062] A formulação base foi composta por manteiga de cacau (5-10%) (Theobroma cacao), manteiga de cupuaçu (5-10%) (Theobroma grandiflorum), óleo de licuri (Syagrus coronata) (5-10%), conservante Nipaguard SCE® contendo propanediol e ácido benzóico (1 -3%), mel de cacau (5-95%), ácido esteárico (1 -2%), emulsionante Olivem 1000® contendo cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate (1 -5%), óleo essencial de pimenta rosa (0,25-1 ,0%) (Schinus terebinthifolia), glicerina bidestilada (1 -3%), vitamina E (0,5-1 ,0%) e, água deionizada (5-50%). [0063] O mel de cacau foi incorporado nas formulações (F1 , F2, F3 e F4) em diferentes proporções para obter emulsões com diferentes consistências, viscosidades, colorações e fragrâncias. A Tabela 1 mostra a composição das formulações cosméticas contendo diferentes proporções do mel de cacau como novo ingrediente cosmético. [0062] The base formulation was composed of cocoa butter (5-10%) (Theobroma cacao), cupuaçu butter (5-10%) (Theobroma grandiflorum), licuri oil (Syagrus coronata) (5-10%) , Nipaguard SCE® preservative containing propanediol and benzoic acid (1 -3%), cocoa honey (5-95%), stearic acid (1 -2%), Olivem 1000® emulsifier containing cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate (1 -5 %), pink pepper essential oil (0.25-1.0%) (Schinus terebinthifolia), double-distilled glycerin (1 -3%), vitamin E (0.5-1.0%) and deionized water (5 -50%). [0063] Cocoa honey was incorporated into the formulations (F1, F2, F3 and F4) in different proportions to obtain emulsions with different consistencies, viscosities, colors and fragrances. Table 1 shows the composition of cosmetic formulations containing different proportions of cocoa honey as a new cosmetic ingredient.
[0064] Tabela 1. Composição das formulações cosméticas contendo diferentes proporções do mel de cacau como novo ingrediente cosmético. [0064] Table 1. Composition of cosmetic formulations containing different proportions of cocoa honey as a new cosmetic ingredient.
Matéria-prima (INCI Name) componentes (%)Raw material (INCI Name) components (%)
F1 F2 F3 F4F1 F2 F3 F4
Álcool cetoestearílico 30/70 (Cetearyl alcohol) 5-10 5-10 5-10 5-10Cetearyl alcohol 30/70 (Cetaryl alcohol) 5-10 5-10 5-10 5-10
Álcool cetoestearílico etoxilado 20OE (Ceteareth-20) 1 -5 1 -5 1 -5 1 -5Ethoxylated cetostearyl alcohol 20OE (Ceteareth-20) 1 -5 1 -5 1 -5 1 -5
Palmitato de isopropila (Isopropyl palmitate) 1 -5 1 -5 1 -5 1 -5Isopropyl palmitate (Isopropyl palmitate) 1 -5 1 -5 1 -5 1 -5
Monoestearato de glicerila (Glyceril stearate) 0,5- 0,5- 0,5- 0,5-2 Glyceryl monostearate (Glyceryl stearate) 0.5- 0.5- 0.5- 0.5-2
2 2 22 2 2
Manteiga de cacau (Theobroma cacao seed butter) 0,5- 0,5- 0,5- 0,5-2 Cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao seed butter) 0.5- 0.5- 0.5- 0.5-2
2 2 22 2 2
Nipaguard® SCE (Sorbitan Caprylate (and) 1 -3 1 -3 1 -3 1 -3Nipaguard® SCE (Sorbitan Caprylate (and) 1 -3 1 -3 1 -3 1 -3
Propanediol (and) Benzoic Acid) Propanediol (and) Benzoic Acid)
Glicerina vegetal (Glycerin) 1 ,5- 1 ,5- 1 ,5- 1 ,5-4 Vegetable glycerin (Glycerin) 1.5- 1.5- 1.5- 1.5-4
4 4 4 4 4 4
Goma xantana (Xanthan gum) 0,1 - 0,1 - 0,1 - 0,1 -2 Xanthan gum (Xanthan gum) 0.1 - 0.1 - 0.1 - 0.1 -2
2 2 22 2 2
Vitamina E (Tocopherol) 0,5- 0,5- 0,5- 0,5-2 Vitamin E (Tocopherol) 0.5- 0.5- 0.5- 0.5-2
2 2 2 2 2 2
Mel de cacau (QSP) 1-10 11- 21- 51-Cocoa honey (QSP) 1-10 11- 21- 51-
20 50 10020 50 100
Água (Aqua) (QSP) 100 100 100 100 Water (Aqua) (QSP) 100 100 100 100

Claims

REIVINDICAÇÕES
1. FORMULAÇÕES COSMÉTICAS PARA APLICAÇÃO NA PELE E NOS CABELOS, caracterizada por ambas as composições, creme hidratante para as mãos, creme hidrante facial ou corporal, loção hidratante facial ou corporal, sérum facial, solução de limpeza facial conterem em sua formulação o componente inovador mel de cacau ou seu extrato, além de óleo vegetal, manteiga vegetal, emulsificante, antioxidante, umectante, conservante, sequestrante, espessante, emulsionante, óleos essências e fragrâncias resultando nas propriedades hidratante, antioxidante, antimicrobiana, anti-inflamatória, regeneração celular e controle da oleosidade associadas ao mel de cacau ou seu extrato. 1. COSMETIC FORMULATIONS FOR APPLICATION ON SKIN AND HAIR, characterized in that both compositions, moisturizing hand cream, facial or body moisturizing cream, facial or body moisturizing lotion, facial serum, facial cleansing solution contain in their formulation the innovative component cocoa honey or its extract, in addition to vegetable oil, vegetable butter, emulsifier, antioxidant, humectant, preservative, sequestrant, thickener, emulsifier, essential oils and fragrances resulting in moisturizing, antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, cell regeneration and control properties of the oiliness associated with cocoa honey or its extract.
2. FORMULAÇÕES COSMÉTICAS PARA APLICAÇÃO NA PELE E NOS CABELOS, de acordo com a reivindicação 1 , caracterizado por ambas as composições, creme hidratante para as mãos, creme hidrante facial ou corporal, loção hidratante facial ou corporal, sérum facial antioxidante, combinarem os seguintes ingredientes: mel de cacau ou seu extrato (5 - 95%), álcool cetoestearílico (2 - 6%), álcool cetoestearílico etoxilado 20-OE (0,5 - 1 ,3%), palmitato de isopropila (1 - 3%), monoestearato de glicerila (0,6 - 1 ,5%), manteiga de cacau (0,6 - 1 ,5%), Nipaguard® SCE (0,5 - 1 ,2%), glicerina vegetal (1 - 3%), goma xantana (0,1 - 0,5%), oliwax (1 ,0 - 1 ,5%) e vitamina E (0,5 - 1 ,5%). 2. COSMETIC FORMULATIONS FOR APPLICATION ON SKIN AND HAIR, according to claim 1, characterized in that both compositions, moisturizing hand cream, facial or body moisturizing cream, facial or body moisturizing lotion, antioxidant facial serum, combine the following ingredients: cocoa honey or its extract (5 - 95%), cetostearyl alcohol (2 - 6%), ethoxylated cetostearyl alcohol 20-OE (0.5 - 1.3%), isopropyl palmitate (1 - 3%) , glyceryl monostearate (0.6 - 1.5%), cocoa butter (0.6 - 1.5%), Nipaguard® SCE (0.5 - 1.2%), vegetable glycerin (1 - 3% ), xanthan gum (0.1 - 0.5%), oliwax (1.0 - 1.5%) and vitamin E (0.5 - 1.5%).
3. FORMULAÇÕES COSMÉTICAS PARA APLICAÇÃO NA PELE E NOS CABELOS, de acordo com a reivindicação 1 , caracterizado por ambas as composições, sérum facial antioxidante, solução de limpeza facial combinarem os seguintes ingredientes: mel de cacau ou seu extrato (5 - 95%), Hydrolite® 5 green (1 - 2%), Olivem 1000 (2 - 3%), óleo de licuri (Syagrus Coronata seed oil) (1 ,5 - 3,0%), álcool cetoestearílico (1 - 3%), glicerina vegetal (1 - 3%), Zemea (propanediol) (1 ,5 - 2,5%), álcool cetoestearílico etoxilado 20-OE (0,5 - 1 ,5%), óleo de buriti (0,5 - 1 ,5%), Nipaguard® SCE (0,5 - 1 ,2%), goma xantana (0,1 - 0,5%), e vitamina E (0,5 - 1 ,5%). 3. COSMETIC FORMULATIONS FOR APPLICATION ON SKIN AND HAIR, according to claim 1, characterized in that both compositions, antioxidant facial serum, facial cleansing solution combine the following ingredients: cocoa honey or its extract (5 - 95%) , Hydrolite® 5 green (1 - 2%), Olivem 1000 (2 - 3%), licuri oil (Syagrus Coronata seed oil) (1.5 - 3.0%), cetostearyl alcohol (1 - 3%), vegetable glycerin (1 - 3%), Zemea (propanediol) (1.5 - 2.5%), ethoxylated cetostearyl alcohol 20-OE (0.5 - 1.5%), buriti oil (0.5 - 1 .5%), Nipaguard® SCE (0.5 - 1.2%), xanthan gum (0.1 - 0.5%), and vitamin E (0.5 - 1.5%).
4. FORMULAÇÕES COSMÉTICAS PARA APLICAÇÃO NA PELE E NOS CABELOS, caracterizada por ambas as composições, condicionador, xampu (shampoo), sabonete, máscara capilar e creme de pentear conterem em sua formulação o componente inovador mel de cacau ou seu extrato, além de óleo vegetal, manteiga vegetal, tensoativo não-iônico, tensoativo anfótero, detergente, estabilizador de espuma, espessante hidrofílico, dispersante, conservante antimicrobiano, ativo e veículo, agente de consistência/opacificante, cera autoemulsificante catiônica, sobre-engordurante, emulsificante, antioxidante, umectante, conservante, sequestrante, espessante, emulsionante, óleos essências e fragrâncias resultando nas propriedades hidratante, antioxidante, antimicrobiana, controle da oleosidade, estimulador de crescimento associadas ao mel de cacau ou seu extrato. 4. COSMETIC FORMULATIONS FOR APPLICATION ON SKIN AND HAIR, characterized in that both compositions, conditioner, shampoo, soap, hair mask and styling cream contain in their formulation the innovative component cocoa honey or its extract, in addition to oil vegetable, vegetable butter, non-ionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, detergent, foam stabilizer, hydrophilic thickener, dispersant, antimicrobial preservative, active and carrier, consistency/opacing agent, cationic self-emulsifying wax, super-greasing agent, emulsifier, antioxidant, humectant , preservative, sequestrant, thickener, emulsifier, essence oils and fragrances resulting in the moisturizing, antioxidant, antimicrobial, oil control and growth stimulator properties associated with cocoa honey or its extract.
5. FORMULAÇÕES COSMÉTICAS PARA APLICAÇÃO NA PELE E NOS CABELOS, de acordo com a reivindicação 4, caracterizado por ambas as composições, xampu (shampoo) e sabonete combinarem os seguintes ingredientes: mel de cacau ou seu extrato (5 - 50%), água purificada (5 - 50%), coco-glucoside (10 - 20%), cocamidopropil betaína (5 - 15%), lauril poliglucosideo (4 - 1 1 %), óleo de buriti (0,5 - 1 ,5%), óleo de licuri (0,5 - 1 ,5%), goma xantana (0,1 - 0,5%), glicerina (1 - 5%), Nipaguard® SCE (1 - 3%). 5. COSMETIC FORMULATIONS FOR APPLICATION ON SKIN AND HAIR, according to claim 4, characterized in that both shampoo and soap compositions combine the following ingredients: cocoa honey or its extract (5 - 50%), water purified (5 - 50%), coco-glucoside (10 - 20%), cocamidopropyl betaine (5 - 15%), lauryl polyglucoside (4 - 1 1%), buriti oil (0.5 - 1.5%) , licuri oil (0.5 - 1.5%), xanthan gum (0.1 - 0.5%), glycerin (1 - 5%), Nipaguard® SCE (1 - 3%).
6. FORMULAÇÕES COSMÉTICAS PARA APLICAÇÃO NA PELE E NOS CABELOS, de acordo com a reivindicação 4, caracterizado por ambas as composições, condicionador capilar, máscara capilar e creme de pentear combinarem os seguintes ingredientes: mel de cacau ou seu extrato (5 - 50%), água purificada (5 - 50%), álcool cetoestearílico (1 - 5%), cera BTMS 25 (álcool cetearílico e metossulfato de behentrimônio) (5 - 15%), óleo de buriti (0,5 - 1 ,5%), óleo de licuri (0,5 - 1 ,5%), óleo de bacaçu (0,5 - 1 ,5%), manteiga de cupuaçu (0,5 - 1 ,5%), manteiga de cacau (0,5 - 1 ,5%), oliwax (1 - 3%), goma xantana (1 - 0,5%), glicerina (1 ,5 - 3,5%), vitamina E (1 - 3%), Nipaguard® SCE (1 - 3%). 6. COSMETIC FORMULATIONS FOR APPLICATION ON SKIN AND HAIR, according to claim 4, characterized in that both compositions, hair conditioner, hair mask and styling cream combine the following ingredients: cocoa honey or its extract (5 - 50% ), purified water (5 - 50%), cetearyl alcohol (1 - 5%), BTMS 25 wax (cetearyl alcohol and behentrimonium methosulfate) (5 - 15%), buriti oil (0.5 - 1.5% ), licuri oil (0.5 - 1.5%), bacaçu oil (0.5 - 1.5%), cupuaçu butter (0.5 - 1.5%), cocoa butter (0. 5 - 1.5%), oliwax (1 - 3%), xanthan gum (1 - 0.5%), glycerin (1.5 - 3.5%), vitamin E (1 - 3%), Nipaguard® SCE (1 - 3%).
PCT/BR2023/050140 2022-05-10 2023-05-08 Cosmetic cocoa honey formulations for use on hair and skin WO2023215958A1 (en)

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BR102022009094-7A BR102022009094A2 (en) 2022-05-10 2022-05-10 COSMETIC FORMULATIONS OF COCOA HONEY FOR SKIN AND HAIR APPLICATIONS

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FR2849374A1 (en) * 2002-12-27 2004-07-02 Yves Derhy Cosmetic or dermatological composition, useful for treatment of skin or hair, particularly to treat aging of the skin, comprises cocoa paste
BR102019008531A2 (en) * 2019-04-26 2020-11-03 Servico Nacional De Aprendizagem Industrial POWDERED COCOA HONEY OBTAINED FROM CONCENTRATED COCOA HONEY AND THEIR MANUFACTURING PROCESSES OF THE REFERRED CONCENTRATED COCOA HONEY AND POWDERED COCOA HONEY
BR102019009487A2 (en) * 2019-05-09 2020-11-17 Albertus Eskes essences, perfumes and natural colonies obtained from the endocarp of the fruit, pulp or cocoa honey

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