WO2023159478A1 - Composition de soins pour matières kératiniques et masque la contenant - Google Patents

Composition de soins pour matières kératiniques et masque la contenant Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023159478A1
WO2023159478A1 PCT/CN2022/077961 CN2022077961W WO2023159478A1 WO 2023159478 A1 WO2023159478 A1 WO 2023159478A1 CN 2022077961 W CN2022077961 W CN 2022077961W WO 2023159478 A1 WO2023159478 A1 WO 2023159478A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
sodium
acid
mask
alginate
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2022/077961
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Mingxuan MA
Changjian HOU
Zhenxi LEE
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to PCT/CN2022/077961 priority Critical patent/WO2023159478A1/fr
Priority to FR2203030A priority patent/FR3133016A1/fr
Publication of WO2023159478A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023159478A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0212—Face masks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/99—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from microorganisms other than algae or fungi, e.g. protozoa or bacteria
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition and mask containing the some.
  • the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin.
  • Skin aging is part of the aging process of human body, which not only relates to the age itself, but also closely relates to external factors, such as sunlight exposure.
  • the light induced skin aging ( “light-aging” ) is mainly caused by sunlight irradiation, and as depletion of the ozone layer is aggravating, the light-aging of the skin becomes more and more serious, which affects the appearance of the skin.
  • Extracts of herbal medical materials generally comprises many active ingredients, such as saponins, flavonoids, and alkaloids, many of which ingredients have various skin-care functions.
  • Cosmetic products based on herbal ingredients have thousands of years of history in China. Particularly, nowadays, people prefer natural substances rather than chemically synthesized substances. Therefore, cosmetic products containing herbal ingredients, for example, acidic fermentation extract, are getting more popular.
  • the composition In order to be commercially acceptable, the composition must be stable for a certain period of time. No matter how efficacious a product is, the product will not be commercially acceptable if it separates or otherwise deteriorates under normal shipping and storage conditions prior to sale.
  • compositions for caring for keratin materials comprising an acidic fermentation extract, which is stable and suitable for a mask using an alginate tissue as a mask tissue.
  • the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising in an aqueous phase:
  • composition has a pH of 5.3-7.0 and a viscosity of 14-65 UD as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
  • composition according to the present invention is stable and suitable for a mask, especially those using an alginate tissue as a mask tissue.
  • composition according to the present invention has a viscosity of 14-65 UD, as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 at a shear rate of 200 rpm, and has a jelly like texture.
  • composition according to the present invention can be used as an anti-aging cosmetic product.
  • composition according to the present invention can deliver a light and fresh sensory.
  • the present invention provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
  • the present invention also provides a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular human skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention on the keratin materials.
  • Fig. 1 shows the rheological plot of composition of invention example 1 and comparative example 1, wherein square lines indicate the storage modulus; triangle lines indicate the loss modulus.
  • Fig. 2 shows the appearance of composition of comparative example 1 under different conditions, A: 37°C for 2 months, B: 45°C for 2 months, C: cycle for 10 days and then room temperature for 2 months, D: room temperature for 2 months.
  • Fig. 3 shows the appearance of composition of comparative example 2 under different conditions, A: 37°C for 2 months, B: 45°C for 2 months, C: cycle for 10 days and then room temperature for 2 months, D: room temperature for 2 months.
  • keratin material is intended to cover the skin. Facial skin and eye skin are most particularly considered according to the present invention.
  • stable means that the composition does not show any obvious change in appearance and smell as well as flowing behavior for at least 2 months.
  • composition for caring for keratin materials according to the present invention comprises in an aqueous phase:
  • composition has a pH of 5.3-7.0 and a viscosity of 14-65 UD as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one acidic fermentation extract.
  • acidic fermentation extract mention can be made of inactivated cultures of Bifidobacterium, saccharomyces/xylinum/black tea ferment, thermus thermophillus ferment, lactococcus ferment, vitreoscilla ferment, lactobacillus ferment, and combinations thereof.
  • the acidic fermentation extract is selected from inactivated cultures of Bifidobacterium.
  • Inactivated cultures of Bifidobacterium may be made according to the process set forth in U.S. Pat. No. 4,464,362.
  • the Bifidobacterium may originate from a variety of species. Preferably the species are those that confer the “probiotic” designation. Most preferred is where the species is Bifidobacterium longum.
  • Bifidobacterium More specific examples of Bifidobacterium are referred to by their INCI names, e.g. Bifida lysate, Bifida ferment lysate, Bifida filtrate, and so on. Also suitable are Bifida extract, which is an extract obtained from the fermentation of Bifidobacterium longum, and Bifida ferment filtrate which is a filtrate of the product obtained by fermentation of Bifida.
  • the inactivated culture of Bifidobacterium is selected from Bifida lysate, Bifida ferment lysate, Bifida filtrate, Bifida extract, Bifida ferment filtrate, and a combination thereof.
  • Bifida ferment lysate which is a product obtained by the fermentation of Bifida and registered under the INCI name: Bifidat ferment Lysate, under the EINECS name: Bifidobacterium longum, under the EINECS No.: 306-168-4 and under the CAS No.: 96507-89-0.
  • Bifida ferment lysate is a product obtained by the fermentation of Bifida and registered under the INCI name: Bifidat ferment Lysate, under the EINECS name: Bifidobacterium longum, under the EINECS No.: 306-168-4 and under the CAS No.: 96507-89-0.
  • Such a lysate is in particular sold under the name Repair Complex by the company K. Richter GmbH.
  • Bifida ferment lysate contains the metabolic products and cytoplasmic fractions when Bifido bacteria are cultured, inactivated and then disintegrated.
  • Bifida ferment lysate contains acetic acid and/or lactic acid.
  • the acidic fermentation extract is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 3.0 wt. %, more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one neutralized polyacrylic acid.
  • Suitable neutralized polyacrylic acids for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, metal salts of polyacrylic acid.
  • the neutralized polyacrylic acids can be partially or totally neutralized.
  • the acrylic monomers of the neutralized polyacrylic acids according to the invention may be neutralized to a proportion of from 5%to 100%.
  • Examples thereof include the sodium, potassium, lithium and ammonium salts of polyacrylic acid.
  • the most preferred neutralized polyacrylic acid is sodium polyacrylate.
  • Sodium polyacrylates are acrylic homopolymers in partially or totally neutralized form, and they are hydrophilic.
  • hydrophilic polymer means a non-amphiphilic polymer that is soluble and dispersible in water.
  • said polyacrylate is sodium polyacrylate is designed by CAS number 9003-04-7.
  • Sodium polyacrylate is for example marketed by Sigma-Aldrich, or COSMEDIA SP sold by the company BASF.
  • Sodium polyacrylate sold under the name Cosmedia contains 90%solids and 10%water.
  • the neutralized polyacrylic acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 3.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 0.4 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention has a pH of 5.3-7.0.
  • the composition has a pH of 5.7-6.3.
  • the composition may comprise a pH adjusting agent in order to have a suitable pH.
  • the pH adjusting agent is selected from citrate buffer, phosphate buffer, monosodium dibasic phosphate, gluconic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, trisodium citrate, acetic acid, maleic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, sodium phosphate, sodium gluconate, sodium lactate, sodium citrate, sodium acetate potassium citrate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, sodium dihydrogen phosphate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogen carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, and a combination thereof.
  • the pH adjusting agent is selected from acetic acid, sodium acetate, tartaric acid, sodium tartrate, citric acid, sodium citrate, and a combination thereof.
  • the pH adjusting agent is selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof.
  • the pH adjusting agent is selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof, it is present in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 1.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 0.45 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a pH adjusting agent selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof can react with the alginate for jellification.
  • sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof can not only react with the alginate, but also behave as a pH agent.
  • composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible solvents, for instance C2 to C8 polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
  • water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible solvents for instance C2 to C8 polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
  • the aqueous phase comprises water and at least one C2-C8 polyol.
  • polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycerin, and glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol.
  • the at least one C2-C8 polyol is selected from propanediol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, and a combination thereof.
  • the aqueous phase comprises propanediol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and glycerin.
  • the at least one C2-C8 polyol is present in an amount ranging from 5 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 8 wt. %to 20 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase may represent in amount ranging from 30 wt. %to 97.5 wt. %, preferably from 30 wt. %to 97 wt. %, more preferably from 60 wt. %to 97 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises no oily phase.
  • composition according to the present invention can comprises one or more additional cosmetic active ingredients.
  • enzymes for example, flavonoids; additional antiaging agents; humetants (for example, biosaccharide gum-1, mannose, sodium hyaluronate) ; tensioning agents; soothing agents; additional ferments (for example, saccharomyces/xylinum/black tea ferment) , and mixtures thereof.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance, fragrances, surfactants (for example, non-ionic surfactants, for example, caprylyl/capryl glucoside) , chelating agents (for example, disodium EDTA) , preserving agents (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides (for example, hydroxyacetophenone) , additional thickeners (for example, xanthan gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose) , and mixtures thereof.
  • fragrances for instance, fragrances, surfactants (for example, non-ionic surfactants, for example, caprylyl/capryl glucoside) , chelating agents (for example, disodium EDTA) , preserving agents (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides (for example, hydroxyacetophenone) , additional thickeners (for example, xanthan gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose)
  • the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • a pH adjusting agent selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof
  • composition has a pH of 5.7-6.3 and a viscosity of 14-65 UD as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2 at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
  • composition according to the present invention can be impregnated into a water insoluble mask tissue to form a mask.
  • the present invention relates to a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
  • water insoluble means that the mask tissue is not dissolvable in water and it doesn’t break apart upon immersion in water.
  • the skilled in the art can choose a suitable mask tissue and the weight ratio of the mask tissue used and the composition according to the present invention based on the nature of the composition.
  • the mask tissue can be a woven or non-woven fabric made of natural fibers such as cotton, pulp, bamboo and cellulose fibers, semi-natural fibers such as viscose rayon fibers and synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers, and polypropylene fibers. Two or more selected from the above fibers may be used in combination.
  • the mask tissue is an alginate tissue.
  • Alginate tissues are known in the art and are described in WO2020001069A1.
  • an alginate tissue may comprise a water insoluble alginate chosen from calcium alginate, strontium alginate, zinc alginate, copper alginate, manganese alginate, or a mixture thereof, preferably calcium alginate, preferably in an amount ranging from 20 wt. %to 100 wt. %, preferably from 20 wt. %to 50 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the tissue.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises a pH adjusting agent selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 0.45 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
  • a pH adjusting agent selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 0.45 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the mask tissue may be consisted of one or more layers. If a multilayer tissue is used, the material of each layer may be the same or different from each other.
  • the multilayer tissue can be prepared by laminating multiple layers made from the materials mentioned above.
  • the mask tissue can have a wide variety of shapes, depending on the desired use and characteristic of the mask.
  • the mask tissue is typically designed to fit the area of the skin to which topical application is desired.
  • the mask tissue is designed to correspond to the shape of the face avoiding the eye, nostril, and mouth areas, as necessary.
  • composition according to the present invention can be produced by firstly forming the aqueous phase, then adjusting the pH to 5.0-6.3, followed by adding the neutralized polyacrylic acid and then acidic fermentation extract, lastly adjusting the pH to 5.3-7.0.
  • composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application and can especially constitute a composition intended for caring for keratin materials, and especially human skin.
  • composition according to the present invention can be used for anti-aging.
  • the present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular skin, comprising the step of applying the composition or the mask as defined above to the keratin materials.
  • the keratin materials are facial skin and/or eye skin.
  • compositions according to invention examples (IE. ) 1-2 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-3 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material with regard to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated) :
  • composition of invention example 1 for illustration:
  • compositions obtained above were evaluated as follows.
  • the viscosity was measured at 25°C, using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with a spindle M2, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle are observed) , at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
  • a sample If a sample can pass each of the individual tests, it passes the static stability test. If a sample fails at any time point under any temperature during the test, the sample is evaluated as “fail the static stability test” .
  • the oscillation mode of rheometer was used in the test and the spinner is CP-50.
  • the frequency (f) was set to be from 1Hz to 10 Hz. 2-3 drops of a sample were applied to the testing plate of the rheometer. Then the testing temperature was set to be 45°C or room temperature and maintained for 1 minute. The storage modulus and the loss modulus of the sample were recorded.
  • Fig. 1 demonstrates the rheology behaviour of each composition of invention example 1 and comparative example 1.
  • composition of invention example is more stable.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
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  • Tropical Medicine & Parasitology (AREA)
  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Une composition de soins pour matières kératiniques comprend dans une phase aqueuse : (i) au moins un extrait de fermentation acide ; et (ii) au moins un poly(acide acrylique) neutralisé, la composition présentant un pH de 5,3 à 7,0 et une viscosité de 14 à 65 UD telle que déterminée au moyen d'un viscosimètre Rheomat 100 Plus équipé d'un mobile M2 à une vitesse de cisaillement de 200 tr/min. Un procédé cosmétique de soins pour matières kératiniques, en particulier de la peau, comprend l'étape d'application de la composition ou du masque sur les matières kératiniques.
PCT/CN2022/077961 2022-02-25 2022-02-25 Composition de soins pour matières kératiniques et masque la contenant WO2023159478A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2022/077961 WO2023159478A1 (fr) 2022-02-25 2022-02-25 Composition de soins pour matières kératiniques et masque la contenant
FR2203030A FR3133016A1 (fr) 2022-02-25 2022-04-04 composition de soin des matières kératineuses et masque contenant celle-ci

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2022/077961 WO2023159478A1 (fr) 2022-02-25 2022-02-25 Composition de soins pour matières kératiniques et masque la contenant

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WO2023159478A1 true WO2023159478A1 (fr) 2023-08-31

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20140161855A1 (en) * 2011-07-14 2014-06-12 Monsanto Technology LLC a corporation Cosmetic with enhanced collagen i synthesis
US20160008270A1 (en) * 2014-07-11 2016-01-14 Mary Kay Inc. Cosmetic compositions and methods of their use
US20160271264A1 (en) * 2015-03-20 2016-09-22 Elc Management Llc Optically-activated system for reducing the appearance of skin imperfections
US20180360702A1 (en) * 2015-12-18 2018-12-20 L'oreal Composition based on an aqueous phase containing a dispersion of an anhydrous composite material
WO2020127577A1 (fr) * 2018-12-21 2020-06-25 L V M H Recherche Effet pro-vitaminique d'un extrait d'un microorganisme probiotique

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3024318A1 (de) 1980-06-27 1982-01-28 Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Karl Richter GmbH, 1000 Berlin Kosmetische mittel
CN106421867A (zh) * 2016-07-20 2017-02-22 国家纳米科学中心 一种含纳米金的抗菌海藻酸钙敷料
CN112334124A (zh) 2018-06-28 2021-02-05 莱雅公司 用于护理皮肤的套盒
WO2020007906A1 (fr) * 2018-07-04 2020-01-09 Chr. Hansen A/S Compositions topiques aqueuses comprenant des bactéries probiotiques viables
CN108904432A (zh) * 2018-08-02 2018-11-30 广州航美化妆品有限公司 一种具有嫩肤、祛痘作用的多效面膜

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20140161855A1 (en) * 2011-07-14 2014-06-12 Monsanto Technology LLC a corporation Cosmetic with enhanced collagen i synthesis
US20160008270A1 (en) * 2014-07-11 2016-01-14 Mary Kay Inc. Cosmetic compositions and methods of their use
US20160271264A1 (en) * 2015-03-20 2016-09-22 Elc Management Llc Optically-activated system for reducing the appearance of skin imperfections
US20180360702A1 (en) * 2015-12-18 2018-12-20 L'oreal Composition based on an aqueous phase containing a dispersion of an anhydrous composite material
WO2020127577A1 (fr) * 2018-12-21 2020-06-25 L V M H Recherche Effet pro-vitaminique d'un extrait d'un microorganisme probiotique

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