WO2023159476A1 - Composition for caring for keratin materials - Google Patents

Composition for caring for keratin materials Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023159476A1
WO2023159476A1 PCT/CN2022/077953 CN2022077953W WO2023159476A1 WO 2023159476 A1 WO2023159476 A1 WO 2023159476A1 CN 2022077953 W CN2022077953 W CN 2022077953W WO 2023159476 A1 WO2023159476 A1 WO 2023159476A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
polyglyceryl
alcohol
composition
composition according
acid
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2022/077953
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Lixuan KE
Wenyan Xu
Chunyan He
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to PCT/CN2022/077953 priority Critical patent/WO2023159476A1/en
Priority to FR2203070A priority patent/FR3134005A1/en
Publication of WO2023159476A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023159476A1/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P37/00—Drugs for immunological or allergic disorders
    • A61P37/08—Antiallergic agents
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition.
  • the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials.
  • the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials.
  • the skin is the protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body from physical injury (such as trauma) and biological injury (such as bacteria, viruses or fungi) .
  • the epidermis is a keratinized stratified pavimentous epithelium. Its mean thickness ranges from 60 to 100 ⁇ m and may reach 600 to 700 ⁇ m on the sole of the feet and the palm of the hands. It consists mainly of keratinocytes, but also other cells, and rests on a basal membrane that separates it from the dermis.
  • the skin undergoes changes in all its compartments, i.e. dermal and epidermal.
  • compositions comprising cosmetic active ingredients have been used to care for the skin.
  • Glycyrrhetinic acid (enoxolone) is a kind of anti-inflammation ingredients which is able to be used in the cosmetic formulas to reduce the skin sensitive, anti-inflammation, among others. However, it is not easy to be dissolved in neither water or in classical oil.
  • a commonly used method is to use high dose of glycols (>40%) to solubilize glycyrrhetinic acid, or high dose of surfactant (>15%) to suspend glycyrrhetinic acid. Most of these applications are for medical purpose.
  • WO2021025550A1 discloses a pharmaceutical formulation which comprises 18 ⁇ -glycyrrhetinic acid, said formulation being a nanoemulsion aimed at enhancing the bioavailability of the active ingredient, wherein the formulation comprises a solubilizing agent selected from derivatives of diethylene glycol, derivatives of propylene glycol or derivatives of polyethylene glycol; a stabilizer selected from polyoxyglycerides, derivatives of castor oil or ethoxylated fatty alcohols; and an emollient oleaginous vehicle, wherein the solubilizing agent diethylene glycol is at least 40 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the formulation.
  • a solubilizing agent selected from derivatives of diethylene glycol, derivatives of propylene glycol or derivatives of polyethylene glycol
  • a stabilizer selected from polyoxyglycerides, derivatives of castor oil or ethoxylated fatty alcohols
  • an emollient oleaginous vehicle wherein
  • the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising:
  • At least one cosmetic active compound selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, salts and esters thereof;
  • the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.
  • composition of the present invention is stable, i.e. glycyrrhetinic acid, salts and esters thereof is not precipitated after a period of time, for example, at least one hour.
  • Fig. 1 shows the photos of compositions of invention examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-2 after being cenrifuged at 900 rmp for 1 hour.
  • keratin materials is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises:
  • At least one cosmetic active compound selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, salts and esters thereof;
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one cosmetic active compound selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, salts and esters thereof.
  • Glycyrrhetinic acid is a pentacyclic triterpenoid derivative of the beta-amyrin type and is shown below:
  • Glycyrrhetinic acid can be ⁇ -glycyrrhetinic acid and/or ⁇ -glycyrrhetinic acid.
  • the hydrogen at C18 of ⁇ -glycyrrhetinic acid and ⁇ -glycyrrhetinic acid is in the ⁇ or ⁇ confirmation, respectively.
  • ⁇ -Glycyrrhetinic acid is a substance which is obtained by hydrolyzing glycyrrhizic acid obtained from licorice.
  • ⁇ -glycyrrhetinic acid can be obtained by heating 18-beta-glycyrrhetinic acid in an alcoholic or aqueous alcoholic medium with an alkali metal hydroxide.
  • the alcohols can be selected from ethanol, n-and iso-propanol and n-and iso-butanol.
  • Preferred salts of the glycyrrhetinic acids are alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, such as, for example, sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium or magnesium salts, ammonium salts or salts of organic bases, such as, methylamine, dimethylamine, triethylamine, piperidine, ethylenediamine, lysine, choline hydroxide, meglumin, morpholine or arginine.
  • esters of the glycyrrhetinic acids are esters of saturated, straight-chained or branched alcohols having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred esters are methyl esters, glyceryl esters and stearyl esters.
  • the cosmetic active compound is selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, salts of organic bases and glycyrrhetinic acid, esters of saturated, straight-chained or branched alcohols having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and glycyrrhetinic acid, and a combination thereof.
  • the cosmetic active compound is selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, sodium glycyrrhetinate, potassium glycyrrhetinate, lithium glycyrrhetinate, calcium glycyrrhetinate, magnesium glycyrrhetinate, ammonium glycyrrhetinate, salts of glycyrrhetinic acid and an organic base selected from methylamine, dimethylamine, triethylamine, piperidine, ethylenediamine, lysine, choline hydroxide, meglumin, morpholine and arginine, methyl glycyrrhetinate, glyceryl glycyrrhetinate, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, and a combination thereof.
  • the cosmetic active compound is selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, sodium glycyrrhetinate, potassium glycyrrhetinate, ammonium glycyrrhetinate, methyl glycyrrhetinate, glyceryl glycyrrhetinate, and a combination thereof.
  • the cosmetic active compound selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, salts and esters thereof is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least C2-C8 glycol.
  • glycol here means an alcohol having two hydroxy groups.
  • the glycol may be a natural or synthetic glycol.
  • the glycol may have a linear or branched molecular structure.
  • the C 2 -C 8 glycol is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and a combination thereof.
  • glycol includes all possible isomer.
  • propylene glycol includes 1, 3-propylene glycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol and 1, 1-propylene glycol.
  • Butylene glycol includes 1, 4-butylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, 1, 2-butylene glycol, etc.
  • the C2-C8 glycol is selected from propylene glycol, propanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and a combination thereof.
  • the C2-C8 glycol is dipropylene glycol, propanediol.
  • the C2-C8 glycol is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 4 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, more preferably from 6 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.
  • the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably from 4 to 8 glycerols, and even more preferably 5 or 6 glycerols.
  • the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprise from 2 to 10 polyglyceryl units, more preferably 4 to 8 polyglyceryl units, and even more preferably 5 or 6 polyglyceryl units.
  • the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from monoesters, diesters and triesters of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, preferably saturated fatty acid, including from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid.
  • the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 caprylate, PG2 sesquicaprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 caprate, PG2 sesquicaprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 laurate, PG2 sesquilaurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 sesquimyristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 sesquistearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 sesquiisostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 sesquioleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate, PG3 capry
  • polyglyceryl fatty acid ester be chosen from: polyglyceryl mono-or di-caprate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglyceryl mono-or di-oleate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglyceryl mono-or di-caprylate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, and a combination thereof.
  • the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester be selected from polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate (PG6 dicaprate) , polyglyceryl-6 dioleate (PG6 dioleate) , polyglyceryl-6 caprylate (PG6 caprylate) , polyglyceryl-2 oleate (PG2 oleate) , and a combination thereof.
  • PG6 dicaprate for example, SunSoft Q-102H-C marketed by Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. may be used.
  • PG6 dioleate SunSoft Q-172H-C marketed by Taiyo Kagaku Co. Ltd. may be used.
  • PG6 caprylate SunSoft Q-8H-C marketed by Taiyo Kagaku Co. Ltd. may be used.
  • the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 3 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 4 wt. %to 12 wt. %, more preferably from 5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one liquid fatty alcohol.
  • liquid fatty alcohol means a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa) .
  • the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • liquid fatty alcohols of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structures at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
  • liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol.
  • Isostearyl alcohol is most particularly preferred as liquid saturated fatty alcohol.
  • the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond.
  • the fatty alcohols of the invention bear in their structure one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them, and they may be conjugated or non-conjugated.
  • These unsaturated fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.
  • They can optionally comprise, in their structures, at least one aromatic or nonaromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
  • liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are selected from oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol.
  • oleyl alcohol is most particularly preferred as liquid unsaturated fatty alcohol.
  • the liquid fatty alcohol is selected from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the liquid fatty alcohol is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 8 wt. %, more preferably from 0.8 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase.
  • Said aqueous phase contains water.
  • water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50%to 90%by weight, preferably from 60%to 85%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise an oily phase.
  • the oily phase is present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 40 wt. %, preferably from 2 wt. %to 30 wt. %, more preferably from 3 wt. %to 20 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.
  • Said oily phase preferably contains at least one oil.
  • the oil can be volatile or non-volatile.
  • oil means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • non-volatile oil means an oil that may remain on keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and that especially has a vapour pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .
  • Anon-volatile oil may also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined previously, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg/cm 2 .
  • oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise an additional cosmetic active ingredient in addition to the cosmetic active compound as defined previously.
  • moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates; botanical extracts (such as carica papaya fruit extract, hydrolyzed opuntia ficusindica flower extract) ; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin E (tocopherol) , vitamin C (ascorbic acid) , vitamin B5 (panthenol) , vitamin B3 (niacinamide) , and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; tightening agents; agents acting on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.
  • moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates; botanical extracts (such as carica papaya fruit extract, hydrolyzed opuntia ficusindica flower extract) ; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin E (tocopherol) , vitamin C (ascorbic acid) , vitamin B5 (panthenol) , vitamin B3 (niacinamide) , and derivatives
  • composition of the present invention may comprise may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance fragrances, chelating agents (for example, phytic acid) , preserving agents (for example, salicylic acid) and bactericides, thickeners (such as xanthan gum) , pH regulators (for example, triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide) , and mixtures thereof.
  • fragrances for instance, fragrances, chelating agents (for example, phytic acid) , preserving agents (for example, salicylic acid) and bactericides, thickeners (such as xanthan gum) , pH regulators (for example, triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide) , and mixtures thereof.
  • chelating agents for example, phytic acid
  • preserving agents for example, salicylic acid
  • bactericides for example, bactericides
  • thickeners such as xanthan gum
  • pH regulators for example, triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide
  • the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • polyglyceryl fatty acid ester selected from polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, and a combination thereof;
  • composition of the present invention is in the form of liquid, lotion, or emulsion.
  • composition of the present invention can be used for caring for keratin materials.
  • the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.
  • the keratin material is the skin.
  • compositions of invention examples (IE) 1-2 and comparative examples (CE) 1-3 were prepared based on the amounts given in Table 2. The amounts are given in%by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of invention examples 1-2 represents compositions according to the present invention.
  • Composition of comparative example 1 does not comprise at least one C12-C22 fatty alcohol.
  • Composition of comparative example 2 does not comprise at least one C2-C8 glycol.
  • Composition of comparative example 3 does not comprise at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.
  • compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking the composition of invention formula 1 as an example:
  • phase B 1) . heating water to 80°C to be used as phase B.
  • phase A and phase B were mixed with a homogenizer at 1600 rpm for 15 minutes.
  • each composition obtained was evaluated by centrifuging the composition at 900 rmp for 1 hour and observing with naked eyes to check whether there is glycyrrhetinic acid crystal deposited. It will be evaluated as stable if there is no glycyrrhetinic acid crystal deposited, otherwise, it will be evaluated as unstable.
  • Fig. 1 shows the photos of compositions of invention examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-2 after being cenrifuged at 900 rmp for 1 hour.
  • compositions according to invention examples 1-2 are stable, without deposition after centrifuge.

Abstract

A composition for caring for keratin materials comprising: (i) at least one cosmetic active compound selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, salts and esters thereof; (ii) at least one C2-C8 glycol; (iii) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester; and (iv) at least one liquid fatty alcohol. It also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying said composition to the keratin materials.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CARING FOR KERATIN MATERIALS TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials.
BACKGROUND ART
The skin is the protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body from physical injury (such as trauma) and biological injury (such as bacteria, viruses or fungi) . The epidermis is a keratinized stratified pavimentous epithelium. Its mean thickness ranges from 60 to 100μm and may reach 600 to 700μm on the sole of the feet and the palm of the hands. It consists mainly of keratinocytes, but also other cells, and rests on a basal membrane that separates it from the dermis.
During the menopause, the skin undergoes changes in all its compartments, i.e. dermal and epidermal.
The development of formulations dedicated to caring for and/or making up the skin and/or lips, is permanent.
A wide variety of cosmetic compositions comprising cosmetic active ingredients have been used to care for the skin.
Glycyrrhetinic acid (enoxolone) is a kind of anti-inflammation ingredients which is able to be used in the cosmetic formulas to reduce the skin sensitive, anti-inflammation, among others. However, it is not easy to be dissolved in neither water or in classical oil.
A commonly used method is to use high dose of glycols (>40%) to solubilize glycyrrhetinic acid, or high dose of surfactant (>15%) to suspend glycyrrhetinic acid. Most of these applications are for medical purpose.
WO2021025550A1 discloses a pharmaceutical formulation which comprises 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid, said formulation being a nanoemulsion aimed at enhancing the bioavailability of the active ingredient, wherein the formulation comprises a solubilizing agent selected from derivatives of diethylene glycol, derivatives of propylene glycol or derivatives of polyethylene glycol; a stabilizer selected from polyoxyglycerides, derivatives of castor oil or ethoxylated fatty alcohols; and an emollient oleaginous vehicle, wherein the solubilizing agent diethylene glycol is at least 40 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the formulation.
While in the cosmetic use, high dose of the glycols and surfactant may cause skin intolerant issue for daily use.
Thus, there is still a need to formulate a composition for caring for the skin comprising glycyrrhetinic acid or its derivative, which is stable (i.e. glycyrrhetinic acid or its derivative is not precipitated) and brings less irritation (or containing a relatively low amount of surfactant or glycol) .
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The inventors have now discovered that above needs can be achieved by the present invention.
Accordingly, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising:
(i) at least one cosmetic active compound selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, salts and esters thereof;
(ii) at least one C2-C8 glycol;
(iii) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester; and
(iv) at least one liquid fatty alcohol.
In a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.
It was found that the composition of the present invention is stable, i.e. glycyrrhetinic acid, salts and esters thereof is not precipitated after a period of time, for example, at least one hour.
Other advantages of the present invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
Implementations of the present invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the attached figures, wherein:
Fig. 1 shows the photos of compositions of invention examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-2 after being cenrifuged at 900 rmp for 1 hour.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the  meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between... and…" and "from... to... " .
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .
Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin materials” is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.
The composition according to the present invention comprises:
(i) at least one cosmetic active compound selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, salts and esters thereof;
(ii) at least one C2-C8 glycol;
(iii) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester; and
(iv) at least one liquid fatty alcohol.
Cosmetic active ingredients
According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one cosmetic active compound selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, salts and esters thereof.
Glycyrrhetinic acid is a pentacyclic triterpenoid derivative of the beta-amyrin type and is shown below:
Figure PCTCN2022077953-appb-000001
Glycyrrhetinic acid can be α-glycyrrhetinic acid and/or β-glycyrrhetinic acid.
Figure PCTCN2022077953-appb-000002
The hydrogen at C18 of α-glycyrrhetinic acid and β-glycyrrhetinic acid is in the α or β confirmation, respectively.
β-Glycyrrhetinic acid is a substance which is obtained by hydrolyzing glycyrrhizic acid obtained from licorice.
α-glycyrrhetinic acid can be obtained by heating 18-beta-glycyrrhetinic acid in an alcoholic or aqueous alcoholic medium with an alkali metal hydroxide. The alcohols can be selected from ethanol, n-and iso-propanol and n-and iso-butanol.
Preferred salts of the glycyrrhetinic acids are alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, such as, for example, sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium or magnesium salts, ammonium salts or salts of organic bases, such as, methylamine, dimethylamine, triethylamine, piperidine, ethylenediamine, lysine, choline hydroxide, meglumin, morpholine or arginine.
Preferred esters of the glycyrrhetinic acids are esters of saturated, straight-chained or branched alcohols having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred esters are methyl esters, glyceryl esters and stearyl esters.
Thus, preferably, the cosmetic active compound is selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, salts of organic bases and glycyrrhetinic acid, esters of saturated, straight-chained or  branched alcohols having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and glycyrrhetinic acid, and a combination thereof.
More preferably, the cosmetic active compound is selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, sodium glycyrrhetinate, potassium glycyrrhetinate, lithium glycyrrhetinate, calcium glycyrrhetinate, magnesium glycyrrhetinate, ammonium glycyrrhetinate, salts of glycyrrhetinic acid and an organic base selected from methylamine, dimethylamine, triethylamine, piperidine, ethylenediamine, lysine, choline hydroxide, meglumin, morpholine and arginine, methyl glycyrrhetinate, glyceryl glycyrrhetinate, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, and a combination thereof.
Most preferably, the cosmetic active compound is selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, sodium glycyrrhetinate, potassium glycyrrhetinate, ammonium glycyrrhetinate, methyl glycyrrhetinate, glyceryl glycyrrhetinate, and a combination thereof.
Advantageously, the cosmetic active compound selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, salts and esters thereof is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
C2-C8 glycols
According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least C2-C8 glycol.
The term “glycol” here means an alcohol having two hydroxy groups.
The glycol may be a natural or synthetic glycol. The glycol may have a linear or branched molecular structure.
Preferably, the C 2-C 8glycol is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and a combination thereof.
In the present application, the definition of glycol includes all possible isomer. For example, propylene glycol includes 1, 3-propylene glycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol and 1, 1-propylene glycol. Butylene glycol includes 1, 4-butylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, 1, 2-butylene glycol, etc.
More preferably, the C2-C8 glycol is selected from propylene glycol, propanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and a combination thereof.
Most preferably, the C2-C8 glycol is dipropylene glycol, propanediol.
Advantageously, the C2-C8 glycol is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 4 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, more preferably from 6 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Polyglyceryl fatty acid ester
According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.
It is preferable that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably from 4 to 8 glycerols, and even more preferably 5 or 6 glycerols. In other words, it is preferable that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprise from 2 to 10 polyglyceryl units, more preferably 4 to 8 polyglyceryl units, and even more preferably 5 or 6 polyglyceryl units.
The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from monoesters, diesters and triesters of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, preferably saturated fatty acid, including from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid.
The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 caprylate, PG2 sesquicaprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 caprate, PG2 sesquicaprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 laurate, PG2 sesquilaurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 sesquimyristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 sesquistearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 sesquiisostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 sesquioleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 sesquicaprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 caprate, PG3 sesquicaprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 laurate, PG3 sesquilaurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 sesquimyristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 sesquistearate, PG3 distearate, PG3 tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 sesquiisostearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3 oleate, PG3 sesquioleate, PG3 dioleate, PG3 trioleate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 sesquicaprylate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 caprate, PG4 sesquicaprate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 laurate, PG4 sesquilaurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 sesquimyristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 sesquistearate, PG4 distearate, PG4 tristearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 sesquiisostearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG4 triisostearate, PG4 oleate, PG4 sesquioleate, PG4 dioleate, PG4 trioleate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 sesquicaprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 tetracaprylate, PG5 caprate, PG5 sesquicaprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 tetracaprate, PG5 laurate, PG5 sesquilaurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilaurate, PG5 tetralaurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 sesquimyristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 tetramyristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 sesquistearate, PG5  distearate, PG5 tristearate, PG5 tetrastearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 sesquiisostearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 triisostearate, PG5 tetraisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 sesquioleate, PG5 dioleate, PG5 trioleate, PG5 tetraoleate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 sesquicaprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 tetracaprylate, PG6 pentacaprylate, PG6 caprate, PG6 sesquicaprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 tetracaprate, PG6 pentacaprate, PG6 laurate, PG6 sesquilaurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 tetralaurate, PG6 pentalaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 sesquimyristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6 tetramyristate, PG6 pentamyristate, PG6 stearate, PG6 sesquistearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 tristearate, PG6 tetrastearate, PG6 pentastearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 sesquiisostearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 triisostearate, PG6 tetraisostearate, PG6 pentaisostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 sesquioleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleate, PG6 tetraoleate, PG6 pentaoleate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 caprylate, PG7 dicaprate, PG7 dioleate, PG7 caprylate, PG8 dicaprate, PG8 dioleate, PG8 caprylate, PG9 dicaprate, PG9 dioleate, PG9 caprylate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 dioleate, PG10 caprylate, and mixtures thereof.
It is preferable that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester be chosen from: polyglyceryl mono-or di-caprate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglyceryl mono-or di-oleate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglyceryl mono-or di-caprylate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, and a combination thereof.
It is more preferable that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester be selected from polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate (PG6 dicaprate) , polyglyceryl-6 dioleate (PG6 dioleate) , polyglyceryl-6 caprylate (PG6 caprylate) , polyglyceryl-2 oleate (PG2 oleate) , and a combination thereof.
As PG6 dicaprate, for example, SunSoft Q-102H-C marketed by Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. may be used. As PG6 dioleate, SunSoft Q-172H-C marketed by Taiyo Kagaku Co. Ltd. may be used. As PG6 caprylate, SunSoft Q-8H-C marketed by Taiyo Kagaku Co. Ltd. may be used.
Advantageously, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 3 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 4 wt. %to 12 wt. %, more preferably from 5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Liquid fatty alcohols
According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one liquid fatty alcohol.
The term “liquid fatty alcohol” means a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol which is liquid at standard temperature (25℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.013×10 5 Pa) .
Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.
The saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structures at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol.
Isostearyl alcohol is most particularly preferred as liquid saturated fatty alcohol.
The liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond. Preferably, the fatty alcohols of the invention bear in their structure one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them, and they may be conjugated or non-conjugated.
These unsaturated fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.
They can optionally comprise, in their structures, at least one aromatic or nonaromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
More particularly, the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are selected from oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol.
In the composition of the invention, oleyl alcohol is most particularly preferred as liquid unsaturated fatty alcohol.
Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is selected from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, the liquid fatty alcohol is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 8 wt. %, more preferably from 0.8 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous phase
The cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase.
Said aqueous phase contains water.
Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50%to 90%by weight, preferably from 60%to 85%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Oily phase
The composition of the present invention may comprise an oily phase.
If presents, advantageously, the oily phase is present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 40 wt. %, preferably from 2 wt. %to 30 wt. %, more preferably from 3 wt. %to 20 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.
Said oily phase preferably contains at least one oil.
The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.
The term “oil” means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil that may remain on keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and that especially has a vapour pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) . Anon-volatile oil may also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined previously, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg/cm 2.
These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
Additional cosmetic active ingredients
The composition of the present invention may comprise an additional cosmetic active ingredient in addition to the cosmetic active compound as defined previously.
As examples of cosmetic active ingredient, mention can be made of moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates; botanical extracts (such as carica papaya fruit extract, hydrolyzed opuntia ficusindica flower extract) ; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin E (tocopherol) , vitamin C (ascorbic acid) , vitamin B5 (panthenol) , vitamin B3 (niacinamide) , and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; tightening agents; agents acting on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.
It is easy for the skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the additional cosmetic active ingredient based on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
Additional adjuvants or additives
The composition of the present invention may comprise may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance fragrances, chelating agents (for example, phytic acid) , preserving agents (for example, salicylic acid) and bactericides, thickeners (such as xanthan gum) , pH regulators (for example, triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide) , and mixtures thereof.
The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional adjuvants or additive so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
(i) from 0.1 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %of glycyrrhetinic acid;
(ii) from 6 wt. %to 10 wt. %of dipropylene glycol;
(iii) from 5 wt. %to 10 wt. %of at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester selected from polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, and a combination thereof; and
(iv) from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %of at least one liquid fatty alcohol selected from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, and a combination thereof.
Galenic form and method
The composition of the present invention is in the form of liquid, lotion, or emulsion.
The composition of the present invention can be used for caring for keratin materials.
According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.
In particular, the keratin material is the skin.
The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
EXAMPLES
Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.
Table 1
Figure PCTCN2022077953-appb-000003
Invention Examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-3
Compositions of invention examples (IE) 1-2 and comparative examples (CE) 1-3 were prepared based on the amounts given in Table 2. The amounts are given in%by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.
Table 2
Components IE. 1 IE. 2 CE. 1 CE. 2 CE. 3
Glycyrrhetinic acid 0.2 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.2
Dipropylene glycol 7.5 10 10 0 7.5
Isostearyl alcohol 2 1 0 3 2
Glyceryl stearate 0 0 0 0 6
Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate 6 6 6 6 0
Water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100
Composition of invention examples 1-2 represents compositions according to the present invention.
Composition of comparative example 1 does not comprise at least one C12-C22 fatty alcohol.
Composition of comparative example 2 does not comprise at least one C2-C8 glycol. 
Composition of comparative example 3 does not comprise at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.
Preparation process:
The compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking the composition of invention formula 1 as an example:
1) . mixing glycyrrhetinic acid, dipropylene glycol, isostearyl alcohol and Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate at room temperature, heating the mixture to 80℃ for about 1 hour to obtain a crystal clear phase A.
2) . heating water to 80℃ to be used as phase B.
3) . mixing phase A and phase B with a homogenizer at 1600 rpm for 15 minutes.
4) . mixing the solution obtained until it cool down to room temperature.
Evaluation:
The appearance of each composition obtained was observed with naked eyes.
The stability of each composition obtained was evaluated by centrifuging the composition at 900 rmp for 1 hour and observing with naked eyes to check whether there is glycyrrhetinic acid crystal deposited. It will be evaluated as stable if there is no glycyrrhetinic acid crystal deposited, otherwise, it will be evaluated as unstable.
Fig. 1 shows the photos of compositions of invention examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-2 after being cenrifuged at 900 rmp for 1 hour.
The results of appearance and stablity were summarized in Table 3.
Table 3
Figure PCTCN2022077953-appb-000004
NA: not tested.
It can be seen from Table 3 that compositions according to invention examples 1-2 are stable, without deposition after centrifuge.

Claims (15)

  1. A composition for caring for keratin materials comprising:
    (i) at least one cosmetic active compound selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, salts and esters thereof;
    (ii) at least one C2-C8 glycol;
    (iii) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester; and
    (iv) at least one liquid fatty alcohol.
  2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic active compound is selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, salts of organic bases and glycyrrhetinic acid, esters of saturated, straight-chained or branched alcohols having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and glycyrrhetinic acid, and a combination thereof; preferably, the cosmetic active compound is selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, sodium glycyrrhetinate, potassium glycyrrhetinate, lithium glycyrrhetinate, calcium glycyrrhetinate, magnesium glycyrrhetinate, ammonium glycyrrhetinate, salts of glycyrrhetinic acid and an organic base selected from methylamine, dimethylamine, triethylamine, piperidine, ethylenediamine, lysine, choline hydroxide, meglumin, morpholine and arginine, methyl glycyrrhetinate, glyceryl glycyrrhetinate, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, and a combination thereof.
  3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the cosmetic active compound is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  4. Composition according to any of claims 1-3, wherein the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably from 4 to 8 glycerols, and even more preferably 5 or 6 glycerols.
  5. Composition according to any of claims 1-4, wherein the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is chosen from monoesters, diesters and triesters of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, preferably saturated fatty acid, including from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid.
  6. Composition according to any of claims 1-5, wherein the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from polyglyceryl mono-or di-caprate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglyceryl mono-or di-oleate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglyceryl mono-or di-caprylate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, and a combination thereof, preferably, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, and a combination thereof.
  7. Composition according to any of claims 1-6, wherein the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is present in an amount ranging from 3 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 4 wt. %to 12 wt. %, more preferably from 5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  8. Composition according to any of claims 1-7, wherein the the liquid fatty alcohol comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  9. Composition according to any of claims 1-8, wherein the liquid fatty alcohol is selected from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  10. Composition according to any of claims 1-9, wherein the liquid fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 0.3 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 8 wt. %, more preferably from 0.8 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  11. Composition according to any of claims 1-10, further comprising an aqueous phase containing water.
  12. Composition according to claim 10, wherein water is present in an amount ranging from 50%to 90%by weight, preferably from 60%to 85%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  13. Composition according to any of claims 1-11, wherein further comprising an oily phase containing at least one oil.
  14. Composition according to claim 1 comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
    (i) from 0.1 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %of glycyrrhetinic acid;
    (ii) from 6 wt. %to 10 wt. %of dipropylene glycol;
    (iii) from 5 wt. %to 10 wt. %of at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester selected from polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, and a combination thereof; and
    (iv) from 0.5 wt. %to 5 wt. %of at least one liquid fatty alcohol selected from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, and a combination thereof.
  15. A non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to any of claims 1 to 14 to the keratin materials.
PCT/CN2022/077953 2022-02-25 2022-02-25 Composition for caring for keratin materials WO2023159476A1 (en)

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JPH06172150A (en) * 1992-12-02 1994-06-21 Kao Corp Skin cosmetic
FR2829937A1 (en) * 2001-09-24 2003-03-28 Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique Dermatological or cosmetic composition for treating inflammatory disorders, especially acne or seborrheic dermatitis, containing synergistic combination of zinc or stearyl glycyrrhetinate and lactamide
CN102085186A (en) * 2010-12-30 2011-06-08 北京中海康医药科技发展有限公司 Glycyrrhetinic acid emulsion and preparation method thereof
JP2013173727A (en) * 2012-01-27 2013-09-05 Kose Corp Emulsion composition blended with stearyl glycyrrhetinate
CN104755071A (en) * 2013-01-21 2015-07-01 富士胶片株式会社 External preparation for skin
CN113395981A (en) * 2019-01-30 2021-09-14 学校法人神奈川大学 External preparation for skin or mucosa, process for producing the same, and base for external preparation for skin or mucosa
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