WO2023111483A1

WO2023111483A1 - Emulsified solid cosmetic composition

Info

Publication number: WO2023111483A1
Application number: PCT/FR2022/052399
Authority: WO
Inventors: Nathalie Gavache; Murielle FARIGOULLE; Valérie de la Poterie
Original assignee: Lvmh Recherche
Priority date: 2021-12-17
Filing date: 2022-12-16
Publication date: 2023-06-22
Also published as: FR3130562A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition for making up or caring for the lips or the skin in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, the composition having a water content greater than 5% by weight relative to the weight of the product, a fat having a melting peak centred on a value between 20°C and 35°C and a gelling agent for the aqueous phase. The invention also relates to a method for preparing said solid cosmetic composition, as well as to a method for making up or caring for the lips or the skin.

Description

Title of the invention: Solid cosmetic composition in emulsion

Technical area

The invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition comprising a continuous aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, said fatty phase comprising a fatty substance with a low melting point and the aqueous phase comprising a hydrophilic gelling agent. The invention also relates to a process for preparing such a composition and to its use for making up or care, in particular for making up and/or caring for the lips or the skin.

Prior technique

[0002] Makeup sticks are essentially based on waxes and are anhydrous. They have the disadvantage of depositing a greasy and present film, so much so that the need remains to provide the lips or the skin of the face with freshness and moisturizing care by formulating lipsticks, lip balms and complexion products comprising water which exhibit surprising sensoriality with extreme glide.

[0003] It is desirable to obtain a composition whose texture is sufficiently rigid to be molded in the form of a stick while allowing comfortable application of a thin film with high coverage on the lips or the skin.

[0004] Thus, one of the problems underlying the invention aims to obtain a cosmetic composition that is solid at room temperature in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion which provides a feeling of freshness, which is moisturizing, comfortable and not drying for lips and skin.

[0005] In addition, the provision of solid cosmetic products for making up and caring for the lips or the skin that have a surprising feeling when applied to the skin remains a constant objective. A second problem at the basis of the invention consists in proposing a solid composition which is extremely gliding on application, and which leaves a thin, high-coverage film on the lips or on the skin.

Disclosure of Invention

[0006] The invention responds to these problems and proposes a lipstick or a stick foundation providing a fresh and moisturizing effect, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase gelled with a gelling hydrophilic and a fatty phase containing at least one non-liquid fatty substance at room temperature having a particular melting point. The melting point can be defined for example as the temperature of a melting peak of the fatty substance, this temperature possibly corresponding to the abscissa of the top of a melting peak which is read on a thermogram recorded by a method of analysis known to those skilled in the art. [0007] A first object of the present invention is therefore a solid cosmetic composition for making up or caring for the lips or the skin, said composition being in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, said composition comprising:

- water in a content greater than 5% by mass relative to the mass of the composition,

- an emulsifying system comprising at least one non-silicone non-ionic surfactant,

- a fatty substance having a melting peak centered on a temperature value (called “melting temperature” or “melting point”) of between 20°C and 35°C, having a percentage of liquid fraction at 20°C lower to 20% by mass, and having a percentage of liquid fraction at 35°C greater than 80% by mass, and

- a gelling agent for the aqueous phase.

[0008] The melting peak, the percentage of liquid fraction at 20° C. and the percentage of liquid fraction at 35° C. of the fatty substance can be measured by any method known to those skilled in the art, for example by differential calorimetry at scanning (Differential Scanning Calorimetry or DSC). According to this method, a thermogram is recorded (also called melting curve) representing the evolution of the heat absorbed by the fatty substance as a function of the temperature to which it is exposed, during a linear rise in temperature as a function of time. The thermogram includes a single melting peak when the fatty substance is chemically pure.

[0009]Thus, the expression "melting peak centered on a temperature value" can designate the abscissa of a point located at the top of a peak observed on a thermogram representing the variation of the heat energy absorbed by the fatty substance as a function of the temperature, the thermogram being obtained with a differential scanning calorimeter, preferably by applying a rise in temperature of the fatty substance at a constant rate of 10° C./min.

The "melting temperature" or the "melting peak" of the fatty substance within the meaning of the invention is preferably the temperature of the top of a peak observed between 20° C. and 35° C. on a thermogram recorded by differential scanning calorimetry. [0011]According to a particular protocol for measurement by differential scanning calorimetry of the melting peak and the percentages of liquid fraction, a first temperature rise is carried out on a sample of the fatty substance between 25° C. and 100° C. at a speed 10°C/min, then cooling from 100°C to -50°C at 5°C/min, then recording a thermogram by raising the temperature from -50°C to 100°C at a rate of 10 °C/min. The melting peak and the percentages of liquid fraction of the fatty substance are preferably measured on the so-called “second melting” thermogram. [0012] For example, the melting temperature and the percentages of liquid fraction can be measured with a differential thermal analyzer model DSC 1 from Mettler-Toledo.

[0013] According to a particular protocol for measuring the melting temperature and the percentages of liquid fraction of the fatty substance, 40 μl crucibles with lids pierced with a hole 50 μm in diameter are used, with a sample mass of 10 at 20 mg. The temperature cycle undergone by the sample can be the following:

- A stabilization of 5 minutes at 25°C

- A first heating from 25°C to 100°C at a rate of 10°C/min. This first heating aims to erase the thermal past of the sample linked to its industrial manufacturing method, by achieving a total melting

- Cooling from 100°C to -50°C at 5°C/min. This cooling aims to completely crystallize the sample at a controlled rate

- A second heating from -50°C to 100°C at a rate of 10°C/min. This second heating makes it possible to melt a completely crystallized sample under controlled conditions, allowing a rigorous comparison between samples.

[0014] The values extracted from these measurements, on the second melting peak, are in particular:

- the total enthalpy of fusion (in J/g), ie the quantity of energy necessary to completely melt 1 g of sample. This measurement is carried out by integrating the entire melting peak,

- the percentage of fusion according to the temperature,

- the reaction rate,

- the temperature as a function of the percentage of melting, and

- the melting start and end temperatures.

[0015] Unexpectedly, the inventors have observed that it was possible to prepare a cosmetic composition providing freshness and hydration while providing a new sensoriality and glide on application. These advantages make it possible to propose a new product for making up the lips or the skin which confers new care properties and which is non-drying for the lips and the skin of the face.

Another advantage of the solid cosmetic composition of the invention is related to its very easy application, to its surprising texture at the time of application to the skin, as well as to the sensory effect of freshness that it provides.

Within the meaning of the invention, ambient temperature is understood to mean a temperature ranging from 20° C. to 25° C.

The composition of the invention comprises a fatty substance having a melting peak, preferably a main melting peak, centered on a value between 20° C. and 35°C. The mass percentage of liquid fraction of the fatty substance at 20° C. is less than 20%, preferably less than 10%, and even more preferably less than 5%. The mass percentage of liquid fraction of the fatty substance at 35° C. is greater than 80%, preferably greater than 90%, and more preferably greater than 95%. [0019] The fatty substance provides a very cool, even cold effect and also provides a very pleasant application thanks to an extreme fondant and slipperiness on application, and which leaves a thin film on the lips or on the skin.

[0020] This fatty substance can be chosen from aliphatic acid and fatty alcohol monoesters, such as myristyl lactate. Two other examples of such a fatty substance are LIPEX® SMP (INCI name: hydrogenated vegetable oil) manufactured by the company UNIPEX, and the product SUSTOLEO® TL (INCI name: trilaurin).

In a particular embodiment, the fatty substance is a monoester or a mixture of monoesters of a C4-C10 aliphatic acid and of a C16-C18 alcohol. Mention may be made of a fatty substance comprising stearyl heptanoate (for example the brand product TEGOSOFT® SH supplied by the company EVONIQ, or the commercial product PELEMOL® 187 from the supplier KREGLINGER EUROPE).

The fatty substance may be a mixture comprising stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate, in particular a mixture comprising 60-80% by mass of stearyl heptanoate and 20-40% by mass of stearyl caprylate. Several of these mixtures are commercially available, including the reference CRODAMOL® W-SS MB sold by the company CRODA, the brand product DUB SOLIDE® from STEARINERIE DUBOIS, the product PRODHYPHORE® ST from the company PRODIGE, or the product from reference PCL-SOLID 660086.

The fatty substance may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30%, preferably from 0.5% to 20%, and better still from 1% to 15% by weight of the weight of the composition.

The solid cosmetic composition of the invention further comprises at least one gelling agent for the aqueous phase. The gelling agent can exist in the natural state (it will also be said that the gelling agent is natural), be synthetic or be artificial. A synthetic gelling agent can be a product of natural origin, when it is obtained from at least one natural reagent.

The gelling agent is preferably natural and can be extracted from a plant.

[0026] The inventors have observed that the nature of the gelling agent of the aqueous phase can have an influence on the hardness of the composition, its ease of application on the lips or on the skin, and the feeling of freshness provided by the composition after its application.

[0027] This gelling agent can be chosen from scleroglucan gum; xanthan gum and its derivatives such as dehydroxanthan; guar gum; tara gum; ghatti gum; sclerotium gum; starches; the station ; agarose; carrageenans such as iota carrageenan, lamda carrageenan and kappa carrageenan; carob flour, alginates; celluloses and their derivatives; hydroxypropylguar; pectins and gellan gum.

[0028]According to one embodiment, the gelling agent is chosen from carrageenans and sclerotium gum.

The gelling agent may be chosen from sclerotium gum (such as the Amigum® product or the Amigel Granule® product sold by Alban Muller), agar (such as Ina Agar® CS-320 sold by Iwase Cosfa ), gellan gum (such as Kelcogel® CG-LA sold by Azelis), xanthan gum (such as Rhodicare® T sold by Solvay Novecare or Keltrol® CG LAXT sold by CP Keltro), carrageenans ( such as the product Satiagum® VPC 430 sold by Cargill Beauty or Alcogel® RCG 4041), cellulose and its derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose (such as Natrosol® 250 M PC) and hydroxypropylcellulose, tamarind gum (such as the Tamarind® product with the INCI name tamarindus indica seed gum), alginates (such as Manugel® DMB), silicates (such as the LAPONITE® XLG product with the INCI name hydrous sodium lithium magnesium silicate, and mixtures thereof. One such blend is commercially available under the trade name Siligel® H and includes xanthan gum and sclerotium gum. [0030]According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one natural polysaccharide chosen from carrageenans and sclerotium gum. In a particular embodiment, the gelling agent of the aqueous phase is a sclerotium gum which reinforces the advantageous properties of the fatty substance mentioned above.

The gelling agent may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20%, preferably from 0.02% to 10%, and better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

For example, the composition comprises from 0.01% to 1.5% by mass, from 0.02% to 1% by mass or from 0.05% to 0.8% by mass of an aqueous phase gelling agent chosen from carrageenan and gum sclerotium.

The water content in the composition can be between 5% and 50%, preferably between 10% and 45%, and better still between 20% and 40% by weight of the weight of the composition.

The composition may also comprise at least one glycol, preferably chosen from polyglycols such as pentylene glycol (also called pentane-1,2-diol), 1,3-butylene glycol, hexane-1, 2-diol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols. The total content of glycol(s) advantageously varies from 0 to 30%, and preferably from 2% to 20%, by mass relative to the mass of the composition.

[0035] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises one, two or three glycols, such as vegetable glycerol, hexane-1,2-diol or 1,3-butylene vegetable glycol, the total mass percentage of glycol(s) ranging from 5% to 15% by mass of the mass of the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprises an emulsifying system comprising at least one non-silicone nonionic surfactant. Such a surfactant makes it possible to obtain a water-in-oil emulsion. Its HLB (hydrophilic/lipophilic balance) is preferably less than 8, advantageously less than or equal to 7, and even better, less than or equal to 6.

The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described for example in "The HLB system, A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection, ICI Americas Inc., 1984". For emulsifying surfactants, HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of water-in-oil emulsions The HLB of the surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DAVIES method.

The non-silicone nonionic surfactant may advantageously be chosen from (poly)oxyalkylenated ose esters and ethers; (poly)oxyalkylenated polyol fatty acid esters, (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols; polymers of the polyoxyalkylenated glycol fatty acid ester type, polyol alkyl esters, and mixtures thereof.

The esters of fatty acids and polyol (poly) oxyalkylene are advantageously formed from fatty acids comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and polyol (poly) oxyalkylenated such as a (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol or a (poly)oxyalkylenated sorbitol.

The esters of fatty acids and polyol (poly) oxyalkylene are for example advantageously chosen from mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-oleates or stearates of sorbitol or glycerol, laurates of glycerol or polyethylene glycol. The polyoxyalkylenated groups are preferably (poly)oxyethylenated and/or (poly)oxypropylene groups.

The (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols are preferably (poly)oxyethylenated and/or (poly)oxypropylene alcohols, and preferably comprise a fatty alcohol ether containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and polyethylene glycol, said ether comprising from 1 to 10, better still between 2 and 6, ethylene glycol units.

The polymers of the polyoxyalkylenated glycol fatty acid ester type are advantageously a block polymer, preferably of ABA structure, comprising poly(hydroxylated ester) blocks and polyethylene glycol blocks. The fatty acid ester of said polymer can be polyhydroxylated. It generally has a chain comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 18 carbon atoms.

The esters can in particular be chosen from oleates, palmitates or stearates. The polyethylene glycol sequences of said polymer comprise preferably from 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, and more preferably from 20 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide. A particularly suitable polymer surfactant is the 30 EO polyethylene glycol di-polyhydroxystearate sold under the trade name Arlacel® P 135 by the company ICI.

As polyol alkyl esters, mention may be made of polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate such as the product marketed under the name CITHROL® DPHS-SO-(MV) by the company CRODA. Mention may also be made of glycerol and/or sorbitan esters and, for example, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate marketed under the name LAMEFORM® TGI by the company Cognis, polyglycerol-4 isostearate marketed under the name Isolan® GI 34 by Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate marketed under the name Arlacel® 987 by the company ICI, sorbitan and glycerol isostearate marketed under the name Arlacel® 986 by the company ICI, the diester of a mixture of isostearic, polyhydroxystearic and sebacic acid with Polyglycerin-4 (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate) under the name Isolan® GPS by the company Evonik.

The non-silicone nonionic surfactant is preferably chosen from sorbitan esters, polyglycerol esters and mixtures thereof. The emulsifying system can comprise polyglyceryl-6-polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2-isostearate and sorbitan sesquioleate.

In a particular embodiment, the emulsifying system comprises a mixture of NIKKOMULESE® WO-NS MB supplied by the company Nippon Surfactant Industrie (POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE, POLYGLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE and DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE), and of SPAN 83-LQ® supplied by Croda (SORBITAN SESQUIOLEATE).

The composition according to the invention comprises an emulsifying system comprising at least one surfactant, in particular in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, or even 0.5% to 15% by mass, preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by mass.

The emulsifying surfactant system may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 1 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 2 to 6% by weight.

The composition may comprise, in addition to the fatty substance described above, another fatty substance chosen from oils and waxes.

The composition may thus comprise a wax making it possible to structure the cosmetic composition and give it a solid consistency. The wax, different from the fatty substance described above, can have a melting point of between 30°C and 100°C. The composition can advantageously comprise a wax or a mixture of waxes whose melting point ranges from 55° C. to 70° C., preferably in a content ranging from 5% to 15% by mass.

[0050] The mixture of waxes may in particular comprise candelilla wax and a fatty substance derivative contained in the olive such as the commercial product Phytowax®, rice wax, carnauba wax, sunflower wax, wax beeswax, soy wax, rapeseed wax, olive wax, cotton wax, bay wax, china insect wax, montan wax, lanolin and its alcohol derivatives, acetylated, esterified, polyethoxylated, kapok wax, sugar cane wax, hexyl laurate, jojoba wax, shellac wax and/or polyethoxylated cholesterol ether. [0051]According to one embodiment, the composition comprises a mixture of waxes comprising candelilla wax and olive wax.

The oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, such as linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, oils of vegetable origin, synthetic C10-C40 ethers, synthetic C10-C40 esters, C12-C26 fatty alcohols, C12-C22 higher fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0053]0n can advantageously choose the oils from:

- C8-C16 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) can be for example

- isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, hemi-squalane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®

- linear alkanes having respectively C9-C17, C10-C14 hydrocarbon chains, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Créations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate, in C15-C19, such as those marketed by Seppic under the name EMOGREEN® L15, in C9-C12, C12-C14, or C15-C19 such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC (name INCI COCONUT ALKANES (and) COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE) and VEGELIGHT 1618LC (INCI name C15-19 ALKANES (and) COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE),

- n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), in particular sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97,

- fatty acid esters, in particular with 4 to 22 carbon atoms,

- synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that R1+R2 is >16, such as isononyl isononanoate, 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2 dodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate;

- linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70;

- hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerine stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

- esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms

- esters of fatty alcohol or branched fatty acids C24-C28

- Polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of carboxylic acid(s) hydroxylated(s) with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an optionally unsaturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid; and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one ester oil chosen from the group consisting of jojoba esters or mixtures of triglycerides obtained by esterification of glycerol with capric acid and caprylic acid .

The oils which can be used are, for example, jojoba esters or mixtures of triglycerides obtained by esterification of glycerol with capric acid and caprylic acid.

The cosmetic composition of the invention may also comprise at least one pigment and/or one nacre, and preferably at least one organic or inorganic pigment. The pigment and/or the mother-of-pearl may have been surface-modified by one or more treatments of a chemical or mechanical nature.

The pigment and/or nacre content advantageously varies from 0 to 40% by mass, and preferably from 8% to 12% by mass, relative to the mass of the solid cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic composition may also comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient chosen from UV filters, perfumes, fillers, pH adjusters, antioxidants and preservatives.

The solid cosmetic composition of the invention may also comprise at least one biologically active agent, the effect of which is preferably desquamating, moisturizing, emollient, healing, plumping and/or nourishing. Mention will be made, for example, of tocopherol and its salts, such as phosphates, acetate or palmitate of tocopherol, an active ingredient consisting of one and or more molecules and / or one or more plant extracts having moisturizing properties different from the glycols mentioned above, such as such as urea, hyaluronic acid, alpha-hydroxy acids, and lactic acid or even anti-aging agents. [0060] The solid cosmetic composition of the invention is advantageously in the form of a stick obtained by pouring then molding and demolding, or in the form of a gel which can be poured into a case or into a cup serving as container when the product is used by a consumer.

[0061] The hardness of the sticks can be measured according to the following protocols.

[0062] Measurement of the hardness of a stick with a diameter of 11 mm:

The sticks with a diameter of 11 mm were left at room temperature for 24 hours, then placed in an oven at 20° C. for 24 hours.

The hardness measurements were carried out using a texturometer (TA-XTPLUS® texture analyzer, Stable Microsystems) and an ETUDEMA Mobile wire + gray support according to the following parameters:

- approach speed: 30 mm/s

- test speed: 1 mm/s

- withdrawal speed: 30 mm/s

- clearance: 25mm

- thread cutting distance: 70 mm

Three measurements were made for each composition.

[0063] Measurement of the hardness of a stick with a diameter of 18 mm:

The 18 mm diameter sticks were left at ambient temperature for 24 hours, then placed in an oven at 20° C. for 24 hours.

The hardness measurements were carried out using a texturometer (TA-XTPLUS® texture analyzer, Stable Microsystems) and an ETUDEMA mobile wire + gray support according to the following parameters: approach speed: 30 mm/s test speed: 1 mm/s withdrawal speed: 30 mm/s distance: 70 mm wire cutting distance: 65 mm

Three measurements were made for each composition.

According to a second aspect, the invention relates to a method for preparing a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising the following steps: a- dispersion or dissolution of the aqueous phase gelling agent in water by mixing, under stirring, and preferably at a temperature ranging from 50°C to 110°C, to prepare an aqueous phase, b- mixture of the fatty substance having a melting peak, preferably a main melting peak, centered on a value between 20°C and 35°C, with any other fatty substances such as oils and waxes, at a temperature ranging from 50°C to 110°C, to prepare a fatty phase, c- emulsion of the aqueous phase in the fatty phase, at a temperature ranging from 50°C to 110°C, d- injection of the emulsion into a mold or into a packaging unit such as a cup or a box, and e- cooling to ambient temperature of the assembly obtained, to obtain a product comprising the solid cosmetic composition according to invention.

The third object of the invention is a process for making up or caring for the lips or the skin comprising a step of applying the composition described above to the lips or to the skin.

The composition may be a composition for making up and/or caring for the lips. It can also be a composition for making up or caring for the skin, in particular the skin of the face. The composition may or may not be pigmented.

The composition of the invention can be packaged to provide a cosmetic product, for example a stick of lipstick, a stick lip balm, a foundation, a concealer, a foundation (primer in English), a tinted treatment or a lip balm.

The composition of the invention can be presented in a case, in a cup or in a pallet. A lip product is preferably presented in a case comprising a base provided with a guided mechanism, and a cap. In all the examples, the temperature is between 20° C. and 25° C. unless otherwise mentioned, and the percentages are expressed by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[00701 Example 1: Comparison between a solid composition according to the invention and a control

Initially, a DSC profile of the fatty substances in Table 1 below was carried out according to the following protocol.

A differential thermal analyzer model DSC 1 from Mettler-Toledo is used. For the measurements, 40 μl crucibles with lids drilled with a 50 μm diameter hole are used, with a sample mass of 10 mg to 20 mg. The temperature cycle undergone by the sample is as follows:

- stabilization for 5 minutes at 25°C

- a first heating is carried out (first melting) from 25°C to 100°C at a rate of 10°C/min, by carrying out a total melting

- the sample is cooled from 100°C to -50°C at 5°C/min to completely crystallize the sample at a controlled rate

- it is heated a second time (second melting) from 50° C. to 100° C. at a rate of 10° C./min.

The values extracted from these measurements, on the peak of the second fusion, relate to the percentage of fusion (or liquid fraction) as a function of the temperature applied to the sample.

The liquid fraction values as a function of temperature are reported in the table 1 below, as well as the number of peaks identified by the analyzer, and the values of the temperatures at the top of these peaks.

[Table 1]

[0073] We do observe a different and discriminating profile depending on whether the ingredient tested belongs to group 1 (INVENTION) or to group 2 (CONTROLS).

Secondly, compositions were prepared according to Table 2 below, in which 5% by weight of one of the four ingredients tested above was added.

The formulas are indicated in Table 2 below (M by mass of the final composition). [Table 2]

Ingredients :

The gelling agent of the aqueous phase can be: sclerotium gum corresponding to the Amigum® product or to the Amigel Granule® product; or a carrageenan gum commercially available under the trademark Satiagum® VPC 430 or under the trademark Alcogel® RCG 4041; or sodium polyacrylate. The wax can be candelilla wax and Phytowax® or a mixture. The oil can be a mixture of jojoba esters and caprylic/capric triglyceride. The glycol can be a mixture of vegetable glycerol, hexane-1,2-diol and vegetable 1,3-butylene glycol.

Preparation process:

1. PHASE A (oily):

- Heat the oils, the surfactant, the waxes and the pastes to 95°C and stir under Rayneri at a speed of 100-300 rpm for at least 15 minutes until homogenization.

- Pass the mixture of VEGELIGHT® 1214 LC and pigments three times through a triple cylinder, then add it to the previous mixture with stirring until homogenization and until reaching 95°C before emulsifying.

2. PHASE B (aqueous):

- Mix all the ingredients except the cosmetic active ingredients and the sclerotium gum at 90°C with an emulsifier centered at 400 rpm for 5 min. The pH is adjusted to 5.5 with the buffer solution.

- Then add the cosmetic active ingredients and sclerotium gum under the same stirring conditions.

3. EMULSION: Add phase B to phase A with stirring at 95°C in a Rayneri machine at a speed of 800-900 rpm for 10 min.

4. Pour the sticks at this temperature, leave for 5 min at room temperature and package them in the final packs.

The compositions thus prepared are poured into molds for the preparation of solid sticks.

Evaluation of the compositions:

The consistency of the stick obtained and the behavior of these formulas on application to the lips have been reported in Table 3.

[Table 3]

A “soft” consistency for a stick characterizes a stick that easily deforms to the touch, unlike a stick of solid consistency, which is rigid.

The advantage of selecting a compound from group 1 (INVENTION) to obtain compositions having a solid consistency and whose application to the lips is pleasant is demonstrated.

Example 2: Advantage of the presence of a gelling agent in the aqueous phase

A solid composition was prepared according to Table 4 below by following the manufacturing method of Example 1.

[Table 4]

The % indicated are % by mass.

Ingredients :

Sclerotium gum corresponds to the Amigum® product or the Amigel Granule® product. Carrageenan gum can be found commercially under the brand name Satiagum® VPC 430 or Alcogel® RCG 4041. The fatty substance can be CRODAMOL® W-SS MB, TEGOSOFT® SH (STEARYL HEPTANOATE 70% and STEARYL CAPRYLATE 30% ), PELEMOL® 187 (STEARYL HEPTANOATE) or PRODHYPHORE® ST (STEARYL HEPTANOATE 70% and STEARYL CAPRYLATE 30%) or a mixture thereof. The wax can be candelilla wax and Phytowax® or a mixture of waxes. The oil can be a mixture of jojoba esters and caprylic/capric triglyceride. The glycol can be a mixture of vegetable glycerol, hexane-1,2-diol and vegetable 1,3-butylene glycol. Preparation process:

The compositions are prepared according to the method described in Example 1.

Evaluation: The presence of a gelling agent in the aqueous phase makes it possible to improve the consistency of the stick obtained by casting. In addition, unlike COMPARATIVE 3, the effect felt on application of the composition according to the invention (INVENTION 3) is an effect of freshness and hydration of the lips. Example 3 Study of the Influence of the Presence of Water in the Formula Lip makeup sticks were prepared according to Table 5 by following the manufacturing process described in Example 1. Comparative 5 comprises 5% by mass of water while the composition according to the invention contains 30% by mass of water.

[Table 5]

The % indicated are % by mass

Evaluation: The compositions prepared are solid. While Comparative Control 5 produces an unpleasant application on the lips, the composition according to the invention of Example 4 applies easily and produces a particularly pleasant sensation of freshness. Example 4: solid compositions according to the invention

Sticks for making up the lips according to the invention were prepared using the method of manufacture of Example 1. The formulas are indicated in Table 6 below. [Table 6]

The % indicated are % by mass.

Evaluation: These compositions according to the invention all have a solid consistency at ambient temperature.

Example 5: Lèyres rouge according to the invention

A composition according to the invention was prepared according to the manufacturing process of Example 1, the formula of which is indicated in Table 7 below.

[Table 7]

The % indicated are % by mass

Preparation process: 1. PHASE A (oily):

- Heat the oils, the surfactant, the waxes and the pastes to 95°C and stir under Rayneri at a speed of 100-200 rpm until homogenization.

- Pass the mixture and POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE MB three times and

TRIMETHYLOLPROPANE TRIISOSTEARATE using a three-cylinder grinder, then add it to the previous mixture with stirring until homogenization and until it reaches 95°C before emulsifying.

2. PHASE B (aqueous):

- Mix all the ingredients with the exception of the cosmetic active ingredients and the sclerotium gum at 50°C under a centered emulsifier at 400 rpm for 5 min. The pH is adjusted to 5.5 with the buffer solution. - Then add the cosmetic active ingredients and the sclerotium gum under the same stirring conditions for 40 minutes to form the gel.

3. EMULSION: Add phase B to A with stirring at 95°C under a Rayneri deflocculator at 900 rpm for 10 min.

Assessment :

The composition has a solid consistency which makes it suitable for casting in a mold to obtain a stick.

The formula is a lipstick in the form of a solid stick with a diameter of 11 millimeters. The hardness measured according to the method described above is 80 grams.

The application is particularly easy due to the gliding properties and allows the application on the lips of a very thin film of color. In addition, the presence of water in a large quantity produces a particularly pleasant cooling effect for the user.

Example 6: Foundation, lipstick and concealer according to the invention

A composition according to the invention was prepared according to the manufacturing process of Example 1, the formula of which is indicated in Table 8 below.

[Table 8]

Preparation process:

1. PHASE A (oily):

2. PHASE B (aqueous):

- Mix all the ingredients with the exception of the cosmetic active ingredients and the sclerotium gum at 50°C under a centered emulsifier at 400 rpm for 5 min. The pH is adjusted to 5.5 with the buffer solution.

- Then add the cosmetic active ingredients and the sclerotium gum under the same stirring conditions for 40 minutes to form the gel.

4. Pour the sticks at this temperature, leave for 5 min at room temperature and package them in the final packs. The emulsion was poured into molds of different diameters: 11 mm to make a lipstick, 18 mm to make a foundation, 11 mm to make a concealer. The emulsion was also poured into a refillable case in order to offer a foundation.

Product evaluation:

The composition has a solid consistency which makes it suitable for casting in a mold to obtain a stick. The lipstick formula is in the form of a solid stick with a diameter of 11 millimeters. The hardness measured according to the method described above is 80 grams.

The foundation formula in the form of a solid stick with a diameter of 18 millimeters which is applied to the skin of the face, in a thin film and producing a fresh effect and a very pleasant gliding sensation. The hardness measured for this stick is 104 grams.

The product used as a concealer is applied to the dark circles by touches. It is in the form of a stick with a diameter of 11 millimeters. The hardness measured according to the previous protocol is 72 grams. The application produces a fresh and pleasant effect.

Finally, the formula of Example Invention 9 can be poured into a refillable “cushion” case without foam for a poured foundation. In this case, the formula is taken up with a sponge to apply the product to the skin of the face. The application produces a fresh and pleasant effect.

Claims

[Claim 1] Solid cosmetic composition for making up or caring for the lips or the skin, said composition being in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, said composition comprising:

- a fatty substance having a melting peak centered on a value between 20°C and 35°C, having a percentage of liquid fraction at 20°C of less than 20% by mass, and having a percentage of liquid fraction at 35° C greater than 80% by mass, and

- a gelling agent for the aqueous phase.

[Claim 2] Composition according to Claim 1, in which the gelling agent of the aqueous phase is chosen from scleroglucan gum; xanthan gum and its derivatives such as dehydroxanthan; guar gum; tara gum; ghatti gum; sclerotium gum; starches; the station ; agarose; carrageenans such as iota carrageenan, lamda carrageenan and kappa carrageenan; carob flour, alginates; celluloses and their derivatives; hydroxypropylguar; pectins and gellan gum.

[Claim 3] Composition according to Claim 2, in which the gelling agent of the aqueous phase is chosen from carrageenans and sclerotium gum.

[Claim 4] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the gelling agent of the aqueous phase is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20%, preferably from 0.02% to 10%, and better still from 0.05% to 5 % by mass relative to the mass of the composition.

[Claim 5] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the percentage of liquid fraction of the fatty substance at 20°C is less than 10% by mass, and preferably less than 5% by mass.

[Claim 6] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the percentage of liquid fraction of the fatty substance at 35°C is greater than 90% by weight, preferably greater than 95% by weight.

[Claim 7] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance is a monoester or a mixture of monoesters of a C4-C10 aliphatic acid and of a C16-C18 alcohol.

[Claim 8] Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fatty substance comprises stearyl heptanoate.

[Claim 9] Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fatty substance is a mixture comprising stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate.

[Claim 10] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by mass, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by mass, and better still from 1 % to 15% by mass relative to the mass of the composition.

[Claim 11] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water content is between 5% and 50% by mass, preferably between 10% and 45% by mass, and better still between 20% and 40 % by mass relative to the mass of the composition.

[Claim 12] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises at least one glycol chosen from polyglycols such as pentylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexane-1, 2-diol, glycerol and polyethylene glycols.

[Claim 13] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-silicone nonionic surfactant is chosen from sorbitan esters, polyglycerol esters and mixtures thereof.

[Claim 14] Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the emulsifying system comprises polyglyceryl-6-polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2-isostearate and sorbitan sesquioleate.

[Claim 15] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a wax or a mixture of waxes whose melting point ranges from 55°C to 70°C, preferably in a content ranging from 5 % to 15% by mass relative to the mass of the composition.

[Claim 16] Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of waxes comprising candelilla wax and olive wax.

[Claim 17] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is packaged to provide a lipstick stick, a stick lip balm, a foundation, a complexion correcting product, a foundation, tinted care or lip balm.

[Claim 18] Process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition in accordance with one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a- dispersion or dissolution of the aqueous phase gelling agent in water by mixing, with stirring, and preferably at a temperature ranging from 50° C. to 110° C., to prepare an aqueous phase, b- mixing of the fatty substance having a melting peak centered on a value between 20°C and 35°C, with any other fatty substances such as oils and waxes, at a temperature ranging from 50°C to 110°C, to prepare a phase fatty phase, c- emulsion of the aqueous phase in the fatty phase, at a temperature ranging from 50°C to 110°C, d- injection of the emulsion into a mold or into a conditioning unit such as a bucket or a casing, and e- cooling the emulsion to room temperature.

[Claim 19] Process for making up or caring for the lips or the skin, characterized in that it comprises a step of applying to the lips or to the skin the composition in accordance with one of Claims 1 to 17.