WO2023110815A1 - Émulsion avec un acide alpha-hydroxy, filtre uv et polymère - Google Patents

Émulsion avec un acide alpha-hydroxy, filtre uv et polymère Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023110815A1
WO2023110815A1 PCT/EP2022/085519 EP2022085519W WO2023110815A1 WO 2023110815 A1 WO2023110815 A1 WO 2023110815A1 EP 2022085519 W EP2022085519 W EP 2022085519W WO 2023110815 A1 WO2023110815 A1 WO 2023110815A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
acid
weight
composition
composition according
alpha
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PCT/EP2022/085519
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English (en)
Inventor
Heidi Rolfes
Stephanie AKAKIOS
Angelina BOGNOUNOU
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Publication date
Priority claimed from ZA2021/10341A external-priority patent/ZA202110341B/en
Priority claimed from FR2200179A external-priority patent/FR3131694A1/fr
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2023110815A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023110815A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention concerns a cosmetic composition, which is an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an aqueous phase comprising at least one alpha-hydroxy acid, and an oily phase comprising at least one UV filter and at least one polymer selected from homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and one of its salts. It also relates to a cosmetic process for caring keratin materials such as skin, comprising applying said composition onto said keratin materials.
  • the skin is the protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body from physical injury (such as trauma) and biological injury (such as bacteria, viruses or fungi).
  • the skin of the human body comprises the dermis and the epidermis.
  • the epidermis is the top most layer of the skin, and its superficial layer is called the stratum corneum.
  • Known skin peeling procedures include mechanical removal, such as dermabrasion or CO2 laser, and chemical-induced skin removal.
  • mechanical removal such as dermabrasion or CO2 laser
  • chemical-induced skin peeling techniques or chemical peels are widely utilized and have a variety of types that provide varying degrees of skin removal.
  • Common chemical peel agents include alpha-hydroxy acids. Such acids are linked to limitations in terms of formulations, because they decrease the pH and create instability of the compositions. Moreover, the use of such acids allows having a peeling action but can create discomfort at a certain concentration.
  • photoprotective compositions usually comprise UV filters, which are classically lipophilic.
  • compositions for caring for and/or making up of keratin materials which are stable, photoprotective, and show a non-ashy look on skin, especially on melanin-rich skins.
  • Said compositions do not present any soaping and/or noodling/pilling upon application; finally, they are able to form a film upon application on skin with good sensory properties.
  • the present invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition, which is an oil-in-water emulsion, and which comprises:
  • an oily phase comprising at least one UV filter and at least one polymer selected from homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and one of its salts.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention is in form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion.
  • said cosmetic composition comprises a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed fatty phase (also called oily phase).
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention is physiologically acceptable.
  • “Physiologically acceptable” means a medium compatible with keratin materials.
  • Another purpose of the invention is a method of cosmetic (non-therapeutic) treatment of a keratin material, preferably the skin, comprising the step of applying a composition according to the invention on said keratin material, preferably the skin.
  • composition of the invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.
  • Said aqueous phase may be present in an amount ranging from 10% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 30% to 85% by weight, and even more preferably from 50% to 80% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • Water is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 5% to 80% by weight, preferably from 10% to 70% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the continuous aqueous phase further comprises at least one organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25°C) such as for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols, such as glycerol, caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol or pentylene glycol, sorbitol; glycol ethers (notably having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tri- propylene glycol (Ci-C 4 )alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers and mixtures thereof.
  • organic solvent miscible with water at room temperature 25°C
  • monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms
  • polyols such as glycerol, caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol or penty
  • the continuous aqueous phase comprises water and at least one polyol such as glycerol.
  • the continuous aqueous phase also comprises at least one alpha-hydroxy acid.
  • the a-hydroxy acid is preferably of general formula (I): wherein :
  • R is OH or NR3R4 with R3 and R4, identical or different, each represents H or a linear or branched C1 -C4 alkyl optionally substituted with one or two OH radicals, R1 is H, OH, NH2, CH2-COOH or a linear or branched C1 -C4 alkyl,
  • the alpha-hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, oxalic acid, lactic acid, 1 -hydroxy-1 -cyclopropanecarboxylic acid, 2-hydroxy-3-butenoic acid, 2-hydroxyisobutyric acid, 2-hydroxy-n-butyric acid, isoserine, glyceric acid, 2-hydroxy-3-methylbutyric acid, 2- hydroxy-2-methylbutyric acid, 2-hydroxyvaleric acid, 4-amino-2-hydroxybutyric acid, 1 - hydroxycyclohexanecarboxylic acid, dihydroxyfumaric acid, citramalic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxy-4-(methylthio)butyric acid, mandelic acid, 2-hydroxy-3-methylvaleric acid, glyoxylurea, p-imidazolelactic acid, 2-trifluoromethyl-2-hydroxypropionic acid, hexahydromandelic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, arabic acid, 3-phen
  • the a-hydroxy acid is of general formula (I) wherein:
  • R is OH
  • R1 is H, OH, NH2, CH2-COOH or a linear or branched C1 -C4 alkyl such as methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl, and R2 is H.
  • the alpha-hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, L-lactic acid, DL-lactic acid, D-lactic acid, oxalic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, DL-glyceric acid, arabic acid, gluconic acid, hydroxytartronic acid, lactamide, N-methyllactamide, N- ethyllactamide,N-2-hydroxyethyllactamide and their mixtures.
  • the alpha-hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, L-lactic acid, DL-lactic acid, D-lactic acid and their mixtures.
  • the a-hydroxy acid is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, it is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 7% by weight, preferably from 1 .5% to 6% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention further comprises a dispersed oily phase.
  • the oily phase is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Said oily phase preferably comprises at least one oil.
  • the oil can be volatile or nonvolatile.
  • the term “oil” means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • non-volatile oil means an oil that remains on keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and that especially has a vapour pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • a non-volatile oil may also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined previously, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg/cm 2 .
  • oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • said oil is chosen from hydrocarbonated or fluorinated oils.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil or “hydrocarbonated oil” means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally O and N atoms, and free of Si and F heteroatoms.
  • Such oil can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • fluorinated oil means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.
  • composition preferably comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, in particular chosen from:
  • the C10-C26 alcohols are saturated or not, branched or not, and comprise from 10 to 26 carbon atoms.
  • the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they contain at least 16 carbon atoms.
  • fatty alcohols that can be used according to the invention, mention can be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, or natural such as for example alcohols coming from plant substances (coconut, palm, etc.) or animal substances (tallow, etc.).
  • long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as for example ether-alcohols or so-called Guerbet alcohols.
  • alcohols of natural origin such as for example coco (C12 to C ) or tallow (C16 to C ) or compounds of the diol or cholesterol type, can also be used.
  • a fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms is used.
  • fatty alcohols that can be used preferably, mention can be made in particular of lauric alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecylic alcohol, isocetylic alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.
  • esters of citric acid such as trioctyl citrate, triethylcitrate, acetyltributyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyltributyl citrate.
  • esters of a C 2 -C 8 polyol and of one or several C 2 -C 8 carboxylic acids such as the diesters of glycol and of monoacids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate, or the triesters of glycol and of monoacids such as triacetine.
  • ester oils in particular having between 17 and 70 carbon atoms.
  • Ester oils can be hydroxylated or not.
  • the non-volatile ester oil can be chosen for example from:
  • RICOOR 2 monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters, having formula RICOOR 2 wherein Ri is the remainder of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or not, and R 2 is a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms with the condition that Ri + R 2 is 17, as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, Ci 2 to C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethyl hexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2 dodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or
  • esters having formula RICOOR 2 wherein Ri is the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 is a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, with Ri and R 2 being such that Ri + R 2 is 17.
  • the ester comprises between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total.
  • isononyl isononanoate oleyl erucate and/or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate;
  • fatty acid monoesters in particular from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, and diols, such as propylene glycol monoisostearate.
  • diesters in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total.
  • diesters of carboxylic diacid and of monoalcohols can be used, such as preferably diisostearyl malate, or the diesters of glycol and of monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (in particular such as the compound sold under the commercial reference DERMOL DGDIS by Alzo);
  • hydroxylated monoesters and diesters preferably having a total number of carbon ranging from 18 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-3 di isostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl stearate;
  • triesters in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as triesters of carboxylic triacide, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or triesters of glycol and of monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate;
  • tetraesters in particular having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70, such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or of polyglycerol and of a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tri decyl-2 tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate;
  • polyesters obtained by condensing unsaturated fatty acid dimers and/or trimers and diol such as those described in the patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1 ,4- butanediol. Mention may particularly be made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthesis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), or polyol and diacid dimer copolymers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA;
  • dimer diol and mono- and dicarboxylic esters and polyesters such as dimer diol and fatty acid esters and dimer diol esters carboxylic diacid dimers, in particular that can be obtained from a carboxylic diacid dimer particularly derived from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, particularly C 8 to C 34 , particularly Ci 2 to C 22 , in particular Ci 6 to C 2 o, and more particularly Ci 8 , such as dilinoleic diacid esters and dilinoleic diol dimers, for example such as those sold by NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7® ;
  • plant-based hydrocarbon-based oils such as fatty acid liquid triglycerides (liquid at ambient temperature), in particular fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil
  • saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride and mixtures thereof, for example such as the one sold under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glycerol triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate, triglycerides of acid in C18-36 such as those sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 sold by Stearineries Dubois), and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil.
  • the composition may comprise at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils that have from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular:
  • alkanes such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) in Cs- C , isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls,
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from non-volatile ester oils, volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and their mixtures.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from monoesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms in total such as isopropyl myristate, plant-based hydrocarbon-based oils such as caprylic/capric triglycerides, linear alkanes and mixtures thereof.
  • the oil can be, for example, present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Said fatty phase preferably comprises at least one lipophilic compound chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, and mixtures thereof.
  • the wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably greater than or equal to 40 e C, which may be up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
  • the wax is chosen from waxes of animal or plant origin, alcohol waxes and their mixtures.
  • the wax of animal or plant origin may be chosen from beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, Orange and Lemon waxes, Bay leaf wax, hydrogenated Jojoba wax, sunflower wax, in particular refined, and their mixtures.
  • alcohol wax mention can be made of alcohols, preferably linear, preferably saturated, comprising from 16 to 60 carbon atoms, of which the melting point is between 25°C and 90°C.
  • alcohol wax mention can be made of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, palm alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidylic alcohol, or mixtures thereof.
  • the wax is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention is substantially free from mineral oils and/or silicones.
  • Mineral oils are non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which comprise only carbon and hydrogen atoms.
  • substantially free » it is meant that the composition of the invention comprises less than 3% by weight of the total weight of the composition, of mineral oils and/or silicones, preferably less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight.
  • the composition of the invention is devoid of mineral oils and/or silicones.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one UV filter.
  • Said UV filter(s) is(are) present in the dispersed oily phase.
  • the UV filters of the composition are preferably lipophilic. They according to the invention can be organic or mineral. They can provide a UVA and/or UVB photoprotection. Preferably, the UV filters of the composition according to the invention are organic.
  • the composition may comprise one or several dibenzoylmethane derivatives. Particularly mention may be made of, but is not limited to:
  • the composition may comprise one or several benzylidene camphor derivatives. Mention can be made in particular of:
  • the composition can comprise one or several derivatives of p,p’-diphenylacrylate, such as octocrylene, sold under the trade name "UVINUL N35" by BASF; or octocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL N539" by BASF.
  • the composition may comprise one or several salicylic derivatives. Particularly mention may be made of, but is not limited to ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, phenyl salicylate and octyl salicylate.
  • the composition may comprise one or several bisresorcinyl triazine derivatives as described and prepared according to the syntheses indicated in patent applications EP-A-0775 698.
  • Examples of such compounds suitable for use include:
  • the organic UV filters can also be selected from anthranilics; cinnamic derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; phenyl benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives particularly those cited in the patent US5624663; phenyl benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in the patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) derivatives as described in the applications US5,237,071 , US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP8931 19; benzoxazole derivatives as described in the patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those particularly described in the application WO-93/04665; dim
  • the UV filters are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.1 to 50% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, and preferably 10 to 30% by weight.
  • the composition may comprise SPF boosting particles, preferably chosen from microcrystalline cellulose particles (notably sold under the name Sunspheres Bio by Dow), titanium dioxide and mica particles (notably sold under the name Spectraval), colored or plain mica particles, titanium dioxide particles, starch particles and their mixtures.
  • SPF boosting particles may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, and preferably 0.7 to 2% by weight.
  • Homopolymer AMPS® poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid); AMPS® Lubrizol monomer
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one polymer selected from homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and one of its salts.
  • the homopolymers AMPS® (Lubrizol monomer) that are used in accordance with the invention may be partially or completely neutralized by a mineral base (such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethyl propanediol, N-methylglucamine or basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, or mixtures of these compounds. In general, they are neutralized.
  • a mineral base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia
  • organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethyl propanediol, N-methylglucamine or basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, or mixtures of these compounds.
  • neutralized is intended to refer to polymers that have been neutralized completely or almost completely, that is to say neutralized to at least 90%
  • the polymers AMPS® Lubrizol monomer
  • the polymers AMPS® have a number average molecular mass ranging from 1 ,000 to 20,000,000 g/mol, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000, and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1 ,500,000 g/mol.
  • the cross-linking agents may be chosen from the olefinically-polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for cross-linking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
  • cross-linking agents mention may be made of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, di(meth)acrylate ethylene glycol, di(meth)acrylate tetraethylene glycol, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene-bis- acrylamide, methylene-bis-methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols as well as the
  • the degree of cross-linking generally ranges from 0.01% to 10% in moles, and more particularly from 0.2% to 2% in moles, relative to the polymer.
  • the more particularly preferred AMPS® homopolymers comprise patterns with the following general formula (I) randomly distributed : wherein X + designates a proton, an alkaline metal cation, an alkaline-earth cation or the ammonium ion, at most 10% mol of X + cations may consist of H + protons; and cross-linking agents originating from at least one monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds.
  • the homopolymers that are used, and more particularly preferred, according to the invention comprise from 90 to 99.9% by weight, and preferably from 98 to 99.5% by weight of pattens with the formula (I), and from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight of cross-linking patterns, the weight proportions being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.
  • polymers of this type mention may be made in particular of the cross-linked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, marketed by the company Clariant under the tradename Aristoflex Silk (INCI name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate).
  • the homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or their salts can be used in a broader pH spectrum, and especially in low pH (i.e. acidic) values.
  • said polymer according to the invention is present in a content of active material ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 1 .5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one thickener.
  • the thickener is preferably chosen from acrylic and/or methacrylic acid polymers or copolymers.
  • the acrylic and/or methacrylic acid polymers or copolymers may be chosen from acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers and carboxyvinyl polymers. Examples of such polymers or copolymers are in particular carbomers.
  • the thickener of the present invention is a carbomer.
  • the carbomers include, but are not limited to those known by the CTFA-designated (or PCPC-designated) technical name of carbomers: 934, 940, 941 , 951 , 954, 956, 980, 981 , 1342, 2984, EDT 2001 , 934P and Ultrez 10, which may be commercially available under the tradenames of CARBOPOL® (e.g., CARBOPOL® 934, 940, 941 , 951 , 954, 956, 980, 981 , 1342, 2984, 5984, CARBOPOL® ULTREZ 10 and CARBOPOL® ULTREZ 30 (from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) or TEGO® CARBOMER (from Evonik Nutrition & Care Gmbh) or ACRITAMER (from Rita Corporation) or ACRYPOL® (from Corel Pharma Chem) or ASHLANDTM 980 MS CARBOMER (from Ashland).
  • CARBOPOL® e.g., CA
  • the thickener is a carbomer that is a homopolymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene.
  • the thickener may be present in an amount of from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one surfactant.
  • Said surfactant may be chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and their mixtures.
  • the composition comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant, preferably a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate.
  • the surfactant can be present in a quantity ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1 to 7% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1 .5% to 5% by weight.
  • Acid and/or base preferably ranging from 1 to 7% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1 .5% to 5% by weight.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention can comprise an acid and/or a base.
  • the composition according to the invention has a pH of between 4 and 7.
  • composition of the invention may further comprise at least one additive.
  • a person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additives present in the compositions according to the invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties for these compositions are not affected by the additives.
  • Said additive may be chosen from thickeners, active agents, perfumes and preservatives.
  • the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for treating a keratin material, comprising the step of applying the composition of the present invention to the keratin material.
  • the present invention relates to a method for caring for the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition of the present invention to the skin.
  • F1* Method: 1 . Heat phase A1 to 75 - 80°C (Water Phase) speed at 90 rpm internal and 30 rpm external blade.
  • Steps 6 and 7 above may be replaced by the following steps:
  • Composition F3* according to the invention is also prepared using said process.
  • Comparative formulas F4 to F8 are also prepared using said process.
  • Stability is measured as follows: 1 Full Stability: 125ml glass jar is filled to 80% capacity with the formula, and put at 55°C for 1 week, 4°C, 25°C, 37°C, 45°C for 1 and 2 months. pH, viscosity, microscope, aspect, colour and odour are tested at TO and after all conditions.
  • Accelerated Stability 125ml glass jar is filled to 80% capacity with the formula, and put at 55°C for 1 week. pH, viscosity, microscope, aspect, colour and odour are tested at TO and after 55°C at 1 week.
  • This test evaluates the sensory journey of each formulation. 20 mg of each composition are applied on the forearm. Key attributes including film formation, freshness, shine, tackiness are evaluated. A description of the key attributes were done by each person doing the sensory testing for each composition and a combination of the results was added in the table above.
  • the formulation is evenly distributed on a sandblasted SB6 or PMMA HD6 plate. 27 mg of formulation are distributed on the sandblasted SB6 plate and 29 mg of formulation are distributed on the PMMA HD6 plate. Then, the plates are placed under a white piece of paper under the wood lamp which is situated in a dark room. A photo of the plate is then taken where it is visible if the film of the formulation on the plate is homogeneous (even and smooth) or not (uneven with holes).

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique, qui est une émulsion huile dans l'eau, comprenant une phase aqueuse comportant au moins un acide alpha-hydroxy, et une phase huileuse comprenant au moins un filtre UV et au moins un polymère choisi parmi les homopolymères d'acide 2-acrylamido-2-méthylpropane sulfonique et l'un de ses sels. L'invention concerne également un procédé cosmétique de soin des matières kératiniques telles que la peau, comprenant l'application de ladite composition sur lesdites matières kératiniques.
PCT/EP2022/085519 2021-12-13 2022-12-13 Émulsion avec un acide alpha-hydroxy, filtre uv et polymère WO2023110815A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ZA2021/10341 2021-12-13
ZA2021/10341A ZA202110341B (en) 2021-12-13 2021-12-13 Emulsion with alpha-hydroxy acid, uv filter and polymer
FRFR2200179 2022-01-11
FR2200179A FR3131694A1 (fr) 2022-01-11 2022-01-11 Émulsion avec alpha-hydroxyacide, filtre UV et polymère

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WO2023110815A1 true WO2023110815A1 (fr) 2023-06-22

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EP0669323A1 (fr) 1994-02-24 1995-08-30 Haarmann & Reimer Gmbh Utilisation de benzazolen comme absorbeurs d'UV nouveaux benzazoles et procédé pour les préparation
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EP1008586A1 (fr) 1998-12-11 2000-06-14 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Diarylbutadiènes oligomères
EP1027883A2 (fr) 1999-01-11 2000-08-16 3V SIGMA S.p.A Combinaison des agents antisolaires contre les rayonnements UV-A et UV-B
EP1133980A2 (fr) 2000-03-15 2001-09-19 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Utilisation d'une combinaison d'agents photoprotecteurs comprenant en tant que composé essentiel des hydroxybenzophénones aminosubstituées comme filtres UV photostables dans des préparations cosmétiques et pharmaceutiques
EP1300137A2 (fr) 2001-10-02 2003-04-09 3V SIGMA S.p.A Combinations d'agents anti-solaires
DE10162844A1 (de) 2001-12-20 2003-07-03 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen mit einem Gehalt an Bis-Resorcinyltriazinderivaten und Benzoxazol-Derivaten
WO2004006878A1 (fr) 2002-07-10 2004-01-22 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Holding Inc. Derives de merocyanine a usage cosmetique
WO2005058269A1 (fr) 2003-12-17 2005-06-30 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Holding Inc. Derives de la merocyanine a usage cosmetique
WO2006032741A1 (fr) 2004-09-20 2006-03-30 L'oréal Derives silicies de sulfone merocyanine ; compositions photoprotectrices les contenant ; utilisation comme filtre uv
FR2983708A1 (fr) * 2011-12-09 2013-06-14 Oreal Emulsions cosmetiques photoprotectrices et autobronzantes

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FR853634A (fr) 1938-04-29 1940-03-23 Ericsson Telefon Ab L M Appareils de mesure
US2463264A (en) 1942-12-23 1949-03-01 Ciba Ltd Derivatives of cyclic amidines and process of making same
EP0133981A2 (fr) 1983-08-05 1985-03-13 Siemens Aktiengesellschaft Protection mécanique contre les surcharges
US5624663A (en) 1987-08-28 1997-04-29 L'oreal Photostable cosmetic filter composition cotaining a UV-A filter and a substituted dialkylbenzalmalonate, the use of substituted dialkylbenzalmalonates in cosmetics as broad-band solar filters and novel substituted dialkyl malonates
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WO1993004665A1 (fr) 1991-08-29 1993-03-18 L'oreal Composition cosmetique filtrante contenant un polymere filtre liposoluble a structure hydrocarbonee et une silicone filtre
EP0669323A1 (fr) 1994-02-24 1995-08-30 Haarmann & Reimer Gmbh Utilisation de benzazolen comme absorbeurs d'UV nouveaux benzazoles et procédé pour les préparation
GB2303549A (en) 1995-07-22 1997-02-26 Ciba Geigy Ag Micronising organic UV absorbers with alkyl polyglucosides
EP0775698A1 (fr) 1995-11-23 1997-05-28 Ciba SC Holding AG Bis-résorcinol-triazines comme UV-absorbants
FR2750327A1 (fr) * 1996-06-28 1998-01-02 Oreal Composition a usage topique sous forme d'emulsion huile-dans-eau sans tensio-actif contenant un poly(acide 2- acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonique) reticule et neutralise
EP0832642A2 (fr) 1996-09-13 1998-04-01 3V SIGMA S.p.A Dérivés de benzoxazole et utilisation comme filtres ultraviolet
DE19726184A1 (de) 1997-06-20 1998-12-24 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen in Form von Emulsionen, insbesondere O/W-Makroemulsionen, O/W-Mikroemulsionen oder O/W/O-Emulsionen, mit einem Gehalt an lichtschutzwirksamen Benzotriazolderivaten
EP0893119A1 (fr) 1997-07-26 1999-01-27 Ciba SC Holding AG Formulation protectrice contre UV
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EP0967200A1 (fr) 1998-06-26 1999-12-29 Basf Aktiengesellschaft 4,4-Diarylbutadiènes comme filtres UV hydrosolubles et photostables pour préparations cosmétiques et pharmaceutiques
DE19855649A1 (de) 1998-12-03 2000-06-08 Basf Ag Dimere alpha-Alkyl-Styrolderivate als photostabile UV-Filter in kosmetischen und pharmazeutischen Zubereitungen
EP1008586A1 (fr) 1998-12-11 2000-06-14 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Diarylbutadiènes oligomères
EP1027883A2 (fr) 1999-01-11 2000-08-16 3V SIGMA S.p.A Combinaison des agents antisolaires contre les rayonnements UV-A et UV-B
EP1133980A2 (fr) 2000-03-15 2001-09-19 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Utilisation d'une combinaison d'agents photoprotecteurs comprenant en tant que composé essentiel des hydroxybenzophénones aminosubstituées comme filtres UV photostables dans des préparations cosmétiques et pharmaceutiques
EP1300137A2 (fr) 2001-10-02 2003-04-09 3V SIGMA S.p.A Combinations d'agents anti-solaires
DE10162844A1 (de) 2001-12-20 2003-07-03 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatologische Lichtschutzformulierungen mit einem Gehalt an Bis-Resorcinyltriazinderivaten und Benzoxazol-Derivaten
WO2004006878A1 (fr) 2002-07-10 2004-01-22 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Holding Inc. Derives de merocyanine a usage cosmetique
WO2005058269A1 (fr) 2003-12-17 2005-06-30 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Holding Inc. Derives de la merocyanine a usage cosmetique
WO2006032741A1 (fr) 2004-09-20 2006-03-30 L'oréal Derives silicies de sulfone merocyanine ; compositions photoprotectrices les contenant ; utilisation comme filtre uv
FR2983708A1 (fr) * 2011-12-09 2013-06-14 Oreal Emulsions cosmetiques photoprotectrices et autobronzantes

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