WO2023085886A1 - Composition cosmétique présentant des propriétés d'application améliorées - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique présentant des propriétés d'application améliorées Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023085886A1
WO2023085886A1 PCT/KR2022/017894 KR2022017894W WO2023085886A1 WO 2023085886 A1 WO2023085886 A1 WO 2023085886A1 KR 2022017894 W KR2022017894 W KR 2022017894W WO 2023085886 A1 WO2023085886 A1 WO 2023085886A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
butter
component
cosmetic composition
oil
lamellar structure
Prior art date
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PCT/KR2022/017894
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English (en)
Korean (ko)
Inventor
권보성
신혁준
배정은
최누리
Original Assignee
주식회사 엘지생활건강
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Priority to CN202280075318.9A priority Critical patent/CN118382426A/zh
Publication of WO2023085886A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023085886A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0295—Liquid crystals
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition with improved application properties, and more particularly, to a cosmetic composition comprising a component constituting a lamellar structure, an oil component, and a butter component.
  • the lamellar structure is a multi-layered structure that surrounds micellar emulsified particles, and is very similar to the structure of intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum of the skin. Due to this structure, it can prevent evaporation of moisture from the skin, have high stability, and have excellent feeling of use.
  • the lamellar structure is composed of multiple layers by regularly arranging molecules having both a hydrophilic part and a lipophilic part, and may generally include fatty alcohol, surfactant, or wax.
  • a lamellar structure is used to increase the feeling of use and stability of the formulation, and a strong affinity exists between the hydrophobic structures of the ingredients constituting the lamellar structure, so that cosmetics containing this lamellar structure increase hardness. Accordingly, the yield stress of cosmetics against external force is increased by the components of the lamellar structure, and as a result, there is a problem that smooth application is not implemented.
  • the present inventors have completed the present invention by confirming that the yield stress of the cosmetic composition is lowered and the spreadability is improved due to the bulky structure of butter by including the butter component together with the components constituting the lamellar structure.
  • an object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition with improved application properties, including a component constituting a lamellar structure, an oil component, and a butter component, having smooth application properties.
  • the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising a component forming a lamellar structure, an oil component and a butter component.
  • the butter component Since the butter component has a higher molecular weight than the oil component and is bulky in structure, when it is blended with components constituting the lamellar structure, the interval between the components constituting the lamellar structure is widened by adding butter between the lamellar structures and the hydrophobic structure is formed. As the affinity is reduced, the yield stress of cosmetics against external force is lowered and a cosmetic composition having soft application properties can be provided.
  • the butter component of the present invention is generally referred to as ester wax synthesized from higher fatty acids and higher fatty alcohols, and can be used without limitation in types such as vegetable butter and animal butter, and the butter component is a butter made using vegetable oil or animal oil. It may, but is not limited thereto.
  • the butter component of the present invention may be butter whose lowest temperature is 35 degrees or more in the melting temperature range of the butter component.
  • the butter components include shea butter, cupuasu seed butter, cocoa butter, ukuba butter, sunflower seed butter, sesame seed butter, walnut seed butter, camellia butter, Pentadesma Butyracea Seed Butter, coconut palm seed butter, One or more of oil palm butter, mango seed butter, avocado butter, and marula seed butter may be included.
  • the butter component is cupuaçu seed butter, cocoa butter, ukuba butter, sunflower seed butter, sesame seed butter, walnut seed butter, camellia butter, butter tree seed butter (Pentadesma Butyracea Seed Butter), coconut palm seed butter, It may be at least one of oil palm butter, mango seed butter, avocado butter, and marula seed butter, and most preferably at least one of cocoa butter and ukuba butter.
  • the butter component may be included in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. More preferably, it may be included in 0.1 to 8% by weight, 0.1 to 7% by weight, or 0.5 to 4% by weight. When the butter is included in excess of the above range, it is difficult to observe the lamellar structure and the yield stress may increase much conversely, and when included below the above range, the effect of improving spreadability by butter may be insignificant.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention may include an oil component in addition to the butter component.
  • the oil component is blended with a component constituting a lamellar structure together with a butter component, so that the lamellar structure can be appropriately maintained, flexibility can be increased, and spreadability can be increased.
  • the type of the oil component is not particularly limited, and conventional oils used in cosmetic compositions may be used.
  • conventional oils used in cosmetic compositions may be used.
  • the above may include, but are not limited to.
  • Ester oils include, for example, pentaerythrityltetraethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityltetraisostearate, coco-caprylate/caprate, cetylethylhexanoate, hexyldecylethylhexanoate, and isononyl.
  • Sononanoate diethoxyethoxylate, diisostearyl maleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, hexyl laurate, tri-C14-15 alkyl citrate, isoamyl laurate, stearyl heptanoate, Stearyl caprylate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate, ethyl isostearate, dicaprylyl carbonate, myristyl myristate, neopentyl glu At least one selected from the group consisting of lycol diethylhexanoate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isocetyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, and decyl oleate may be included.
  • Hydrocarbon-based oils include, for example, squalane, vegetable squalane, phytosqualane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, C9-12 alkane, C13-15 alkane, C15-19 alkane, C15-23 alkane, C13-14 iso It may include at least one selected from the group consisting of alkane, C18-21 alkane, undecane, tridecane, isododecane, octadecaine, hydrogenated polydecene, or hydrogenated polybutene. .
  • Vegetable oils include, for example, meadowfoam seed oil, olive oil, macadamia seed oil, apricot oil, baekchul oil, jojoba seed oil, rosehip oil, rice bran oil, oil palm oil, rice germ oil, camellia oil, coconut oil, and soybean oil.
  • Green Tea Seed Oil Brazil Nut Seed Oil, Pomegranate Seed Oil, Passionflower Seed Oil, Argan Tree Kernel Oil, avocado Oil, Sunflower Seed Oil, Acai Palm Oil, Lavender Oil, Drumstick Seed Oil, Grape Seed Oil, Poppy Seed Oil, Gindel Strawberry seed oil, curry plant flower oil, babassu seed oil, linseed oil, plum seed oil, horseradish seed oil, birch seed oil, apricot seed oil, castor oil, sweet almond oil, milkweed seed oil, secretion At least one selected from the group consisting of tree oil, cottonseed oil, oat kernel oil, and Abyssinian kale seed oil may be included.
  • Silicone oils include, for example, dimethicone, PCA dimethicone, diphenyldimethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, phenyltrimethicone, caprylyltrimethicone, caprylylmethicone, and dimethicone. At least one selected from the group consisting of thioconol, methyl trimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and PEG-12 dimethicone may be included.
  • the content of the oil component may be included in 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 3 to 20% by weight, or 5 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the oil component is used in excess beyond the above range, emulsion stability may be deteriorated.
  • the oil component may be included in an amount of 20 times or less, 18 times or less, or 15 times or less based on the total weight of the butter component, and 0.1 times or more, 0.5 times or more, or 1 time or more based on the total weight of the butter component , 2-fold or more, or 3-fold or more.
  • the oil component may be included in an amount of 3 times or more and 15 times or less based on the total weight of the butter component.
  • the lamellar structure is formed by components including both a hydrophilic portion and a lipophilic portion, and the lamellar structure is not limited as long as it is understood in the art as a component capable of forming a lamellar structure.
  • the component constituting the lamellar structure may include a surfactant or a surfactant and an oil-soluble component, and by including the surfactant and an oil-soluble component together, the component constituting the lamellar structure may have excellent stability and feeling of use.
  • the oil-soluble component may preferably be a fatty alcohol.
  • Components constituting the lamellar structure of the present invention may include both a surfactant and a fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol may be used for the purpose of stabilizing the emulsion, moisturizing, and improving application properties by forming a lamellar by surrounding emulsification particles including an oil phase while forming hardness.
  • the fatty alcohol may be an alcohol having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and specifically, capryl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, beta It may be at least one selected from the group consisting of henyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol, but is not limited thereto.
  • the fatty alcohol may be included in 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, or 1 to 4% by weight.
  • the surfactant may be used without limitation as long as it is capable of forming a lamellar structure regardless of types such as anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants.
  • the anionic surfactant is sodium cocoyl isethionate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate, Potassium It may be at least one selected from the group consisting of cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, and cetyl phosphate, but is not limited thereto.
  • nonionic surfactant glyceryl stearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate, sucrose stearate Late, Sucrose Distearate, Sucrose Tristearate, Sucrose Polystearate, PEG-100 Stearate, C12-20 Alkylglucoside, PEG-40 Stearate, Ceteareth-6 Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, PEG-150 Di It may be at least one selected from the group consisting of stearate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 60, or polyglyceryl-10 stearate, but is not limited thereto. .
  • amphoteric surfactants include lauramidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, coco-betaine, lauryl betaine, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, sodium cocoamphodiacetate, laura It may be at least one selected from the group consisting of midopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, sodium sweet almond amphoacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, and barbasuamidopropyl betaine, but is not limited thereto. .
  • the surfactant may be included in 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, or 2 to 5% by weight.
  • the components constituting the lamellar structure may be included in an amount of 0.1 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • it may be included in 0.1 to 40% by weight, 1 to 40% by weight, 1 to 30% by weight, 3 to 20% by weight, 3 to 15% by weight, or 5 to 10% by weight.
  • the weight ratio of the components constituting the lamellar structure and the butter component may be 1:0.1 to 1:1.5. Preferably it may be 1:0.12 to 1:1.5, 1:0.12 to 1:1.2, or 1:0.13 to 1:1, more preferably 1:0.13 to 1:0.5.
  • the butter component is included more than the above weight ratio, the lamellar structure becomes rigid and strength may be excessively increased, and when the butter component is included less, the effect of improving the spreadability by the butter component may be insignificant.
  • the yield stress of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be measured using a rotational rheometer at an angular frequency of 1.0 rad/s and a measurement temperature of 25 degrees.
  • the rotational rheometer may be a TA rheometer, and more specifically, may be a rheometer using a 40.0 mm diameter parallel plate as geometry, which is a plate condition of the device.
  • the yield stress can be measured by a method of amplifying vibration (oscillation amplifying method) under the condition that the speed increases through rotational motion, and more specifically, shear stress for 120 seconds Yield stress can be obtained by increasing from 0.001Pa to 1000Pa.
  • the yield stress value of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is 100% or less, 95% or less, 93% or less, 90% or less, 85 % or less, 82% or less, 80% or less, or 79% or less.
  • the yield stress value of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is 100% or less, 95% or less, 93% or less, 90% or less, 85% or less, 82% or less, 80% or less compared to the yield stress value of the cosmetic composition without butter component. or less, or 79% or less.
  • the butter component-free cosmetic composition may mean having the same composition except that the butter component is not included in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention can lower the yield stress when the oil component and the butter component are mixed, compared to the case where only the oil component is included, so that the smooth application property is more improved.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention may include an oil phase part and an aqueous phase part.
  • the oil phase part may include a component constituting a lamellar structure according to the present invention, a butter component, and an oil component
  • the aqueous phase part may include one of a component constituting a lamellar structure according to the present invention, purified water, a humectant, and an aqueous phase thickener. may contain more than
  • the lamellar structure may be formed with a homomixer or azimixer commonly used in the art.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared in any formulation commonly prepared in the art, for example, paste, gel, cream, lotion, soap, cleansing oil, emulsion foundation, wax foundation, pack, massage cream It may be formulated with the like, but is not limited thereto. More specifically, it may be formulated into lotions, nourishing creams, massage creams, essences, eye creams, cleansing creams, cleansing foams, and pack formulations.
  • each of the above-mentioned components included in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably within the range of not exceeding the maximum amount specified in the regulations related to "Cosmetic Use/Permission" prescribed by the government of each country, the cosmetic of the present invention may be included in the composition.
  • the present invention also provides a use of components constituting a lamellar structure, an oil component and a butter component for providing a cosmetic composition with improved skin application properties.
  • the present invention also provides a method for improving skin applicability comprising providing a cosmetic composition comprising a component constituting a lamellar structure, an oil component and a butter component.
  • a cosmetic composition comprising a component constituting a lamellar structure, an oil component and a butter component.
  • the components constituting the lamella, the oil component, and the butter component can be applied as described above.
  • the present invention also comprises the steps of mixing the components constituting the lamellar structure, the oil component, and the butter component; And it provides a method for producing a cosmetic composition comprising a component constituting a lamellar structure, an oil component and a butter component, comprising mixing the mixture with the water phase part.
  • the components constituting the lamella, the oil component, and the butter component may be applied as described above.
  • the mixing step may include mixing the components constituting the lamellar structure, the oil component and the butter component and dissolving them at a temperature of 50 to 100 degrees.
  • the oil component may be further mixed in addition to the components constituting the lamellar structure, the oil component and the butter component.
  • the water phase part may include one or more of purified water, a humectant, and an aqueous phase thickener.
  • a step of stirring by adding a pH adjusting agent and a step of cooling to 20 to 40 degrees may be further included.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can improve soft skin application by including a butter component together with components constituting a lamellar structure.
  • 1 is a schematic diagram showing the lamellar structure according to the addition of a butter component or an oil component.
  • a lamellar structure such as fatty alcohol, ester wax, and surfactant
  • fatty alcohol such as fatty alcohol, ester wax, and surfactant
  • a comparative cosmetic composition containing oil alone as a comparative group was prepared by the same process as the cosmetic composition of Example.
  • raw material 2 after gradually adding raw material 2 to raw material 1 (purified water), it was dispersed in Disper for 30 minutes. After that, raw material 3 was added, heated to 75 degrees, and mixed for 5 minutes with a Homomixer at 1500 RPM. Raw materials 4 to 15 were mixed and completely dissolved at 75 degrees, and then added to the mixture of raw materials 1 to 3 and mixed at 2500 RPM for 5 minutes. Then, the raw material 16 was added, mixed at 2500 RPM for 5 minutes, cooled to 30 degrees, and defoamed.
  • raw material 1 purified water
  • Example 1 Example 2
  • Example 3 One Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 2 aqueous thickener 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 3 humectant 10.44 10.44 10.44 4.44 4 olive oil 1.0 0.75 1.0 1.0 5 Pentaerythrityltetraethylhexanoate 5.7 4.3 5.7 5.7 6 squalane 5.4 4.05 5.4 5.4 7 cocoa butter - 3
  • the yield stress was measured using a TA rheometer by an oscillation amplifying method.
  • the oscillation amplifying method is to amplify the vibration under the condition that the speed gradually increases while rotating the TA rheometer alternately in both directions, and measure the yield stress here.
  • the plate of the TA rheometer (Diameter 40.0 mm parallel After applying the composition on a plate), the gap of the parallel plate: 1 mm, measurement temperature: 25 degrees, measurement time: 120 seconds, angular frequency: 1.0 rad / s
  • the conditions were set, and the shear stress was gradually increased from 0.001 Pa to 1000 Pa during the measurement time to confirm the yield stress value for each composition, and the results are shown in Table 2.
  • Examples 1 to 3 containing cocoa butter or ukuba butter had lower yield stress than Comparative Example 1, and the lower the butter content, the lower the yield stress. Accordingly, it was confirmed that when butter is contained in a composition having a lamellar structure, it can have an effect of improving spreadability.
  • Example 2 The spreadability score of Example 2 containing oil and cocoa butter at a ratio of 12.1:1 was higher than that of Comparative Example 1 containing oil alone without butter.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Crystallography & Structural Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention se rapporte à une composition cosmétique comprenant : un constituant constitutif d'une structure lamellaire ; un constituant huileux ; et un constituant de type beurre. La présente invention comprend le constituant de type beurre conjointement avec le constituant constitutif de la structure lamellaire, ce qui permet d'obtenir la composition cosmétique présentant des propriétés d'application régulière.
PCT/KR2022/017894 2021-11-12 2022-11-14 Composition cosmétique présentant des propriétés d'application améliorées WO2023085886A1 (fr)

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN202280075318.9A CN118382426A (zh) 2021-11-12 2022-11-14 改善涂抹性的化妆料组合物

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KR10-2021-0155448 2021-11-12
KR20210155448 2021-11-12

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WO2023085886A1 true WO2023085886A1 (fr) 2023-05-19

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2007112712A1 (fr) * 2006-03-31 2007-10-11 Kuhs Gmbh Composition pour application topique
KR20120082941A (ko) * 2007-10-02 2012-07-24 쿠스 게엠베하 국소 적용을 위한 화장품 또는 약학적 조성물
US20120201871A1 (en) * 2011-02-07 2012-08-09 Professional Compounding Centers Of America, Ltd. Permeation enhancers with liposomes for topical formulations
CN107233218A (zh) * 2017-06-20 2017-10-10 广东盛美化妆品有限公司 一种层状液晶滋润霜及其制备方法
KR102122839B1 (ko) * 2019-09-30 2020-06-15 주식회사 다른코스메틱스 레티날 함유 멀티라멜라 소포 및 이를 포함하는 화장료 조성물

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2007112712A1 (fr) * 2006-03-31 2007-10-11 Kuhs Gmbh Composition pour application topique
KR20120082941A (ko) * 2007-10-02 2012-07-24 쿠스 게엠베하 국소 적용을 위한 화장품 또는 약학적 조성물
US20120201871A1 (en) * 2011-02-07 2012-08-09 Professional Compounding Centers Of America, Ltd. Permeation enhancers with liposomes for topical formulations
CN107233218A (zh) * 2017-06-20 2017-10-10 广东盛美化妆品有限公司 一种层状液晶滋润霜及其制备方法
KR102122839B1 (ko) * 2019-09-30 2020-06-15 주식회사 다른코스메틱스 레티날 함유 멀티라멜라 소포 및 이를 포함하는 화장료 조성물

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CN118382426A (zh) 2024-07-23
KR20230069870A (ko) 2023-05-19

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