WO2023000676A1 - 一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物 - Google Patents

一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物 Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2023000676A1
WO2023000676A1 PCT/CN2022/078952 CN2022078952W WO2023000676A1 WO 2023000676 A1 WO2023000676 A1 WO 2023000676A1 CN 2022078952 W CN2022078952 W CN 2022078952W WO 2023000676 A1 WO2023000676 A1 WO 2023000676A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
polyurethane
dimensional structure
pvp
vinylpyrrolidone
cosmetic
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2022/078952
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
俞竟
Original Assignee
上海永熙信息科技有限公司
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by 上海永熙信息科技有限公司 filed Critical 上海永熙信息科技有限公司
Publication of WO2023000676A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023000676A1/zh

Links

Images

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8176—Homopolymers of N-vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a cosmetic composition with a three-dimensional structure.
  • compositions for setting makeup on the skin are a type of cosmetic composition which can be used to set makeup and stabilize different makeup looks.
  • Skin setting compositions mainly take the form of setting sprays or setting waters. Setting sprays and setting waters have little difference in their composition, but differ in their application. A setting spray is applied to damp skin as an aid to modeling the look. In contrast, setting sprays are sprayed onto dry, styled skin to set the look. In addition to a setting spray or setting water, it also comes in the form of a skin setting gel.
  • the new patented technology forms a framework structure on the skin through macromolecular PVP and VPVA of about 100,000 daltons, and then forms interpenetration through medium molecular weight polyurethane-10 and large molecular weight PVP and VPVA of about 10,000 daltons
  • the framework of the network finally allows polyols and active ingredients to be embedded in the space network structure to form an elastic three-dimensional space film.
  • the entire film-forming process is with the volatilization of water.
  • the macromolecular PVP and VPVA copolymers are subjected to the force of hydrogen bonds, and the chains of the polymers are slowly stretched from the agglomerated state to become straight chains, and then passed through The NCO group and the CH group on the branch chain form a hydrogen bond force, and finally make a linear macromolecular chain string into a spatial network structure.
  • the medium-molecular polyurethane-10 also allows the chain of the polymer to slowly stretch out from the agglomerated state to become a straight chain, and then through the NCO group and NH group on the main chain to form a hydrogen bond force, In the end, a straight line of molecular chains of different sizes is connected in series to form a dense spatial network structure.
  • small molecular polyols contain a large number of hydroxyl groups, they will be free in the gaps of the spatial network structure formed by the polymer, thereby forming a three-dimensional intersecting network of large, medium and small molecules.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a three-dimensional cosmetic makeup composition.
  • the present invention is realized through the following technical solutions.
  • a cosmetic makeup holding composition with a three-dimensional structure comprising:
  • At least one polyurethane A) which can be produced by reacting one or more water-insoluble, non-water-dispersible isocyanate-functional polyurethane prepolymers A1) with one or more amino-functional compounds A2) obtain;
  • amino-functional compound A2) is optionally a primary and/or secondary amine and/or a diamine; wherein the amino-functional compound A2) comprises at least one diamine.
  • amino-functional compound A2 comprises an amino-functional compound A2-I without ionic or ionogenic groups and an amino-functional compound A2-II with ionic and/or ionogenic groups.
  • the amino functional compound A2) comprises an amino functional compound A2-I without an ionic group or an ionogenic group and an amino functional compound A2-II with an ionic group and/or an ionogenic group, wherein A2 -I is a diamine having no ionic or ionogenic group.
  • the isocyanate-functional polyurethane prepolymer A1) can be selected from one or more polyvalent polyols selected from polyether polyols, polycarbonate polyols, polyether polycarbonate polyols and/or polyester polyols Alcohols are obtained by reacting one or more polyisocyanates; wherein the polyisocyanates comprise hexamethylene diisocyanate and/or isophorone diisocyanate.
  • the pyrrolidone polymer B) includes polyvinylpyrrolidone, referred to as PVP, which is a high molecular polymer formed by linear polymerization of N-vinylpyrrolidone, wherein N-vinylpyrrolidone is referred to as NVP; the structural formula of polyvinylpyrrolidone is (C6H9NO ) n, the average molecular weight is 40000.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • the average molecular weight of PVP is divided into four grades, and it is customary to use K value to represent the average molecular weight range of PVP in different K values.
  • the K value is based on PVP Water-soluble relative viscosity-related characteristics, the higher the viscosity, the greater the molecular weight of the polymer;
  • pyrrolidone polymer B) also includes vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer, referred to as VP/VA copolymer; vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer is formed by copolymerization of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate in different proportions
  • the copolymer exists in the form of powder and liquid, and its structural formula is (C6H9NO)n.(C4H6O2)m.
  • the weight ratio of the solid components in the polyurethane A) dispersion to the solid components in the polyvinylpyrrolidone is preferably kept in the range from 5:1 to 1:5.
  • the weight ratio of solid components in the polyurethane A) dispersion plus solid components in polyvinylpyrrolidone to vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer is preferably kept in the range from 20:1 to 1:10.
  • At least one of polyols, surfactants, preservatives, essences, moisturizing agents and active substances is also included.
  • the combination of the soft film formed by polyurethane and the hard film formed by PVP and the action of the VP/VA film forming agent in the present invention can have better conformability on the skin and better makeup fixing effect.
  • the present invention not only has high film-forming property and makeup retention property under normal environment, but also has good wash-off property, excellent film hardness and elasticity and comfortable skin feeling.
  • Fig. 1 is the structural formula schematic diagram of polyurethane among the present invention
  • Fig. 2 is the schematic diagram of the structural formula of polyvinylpyrrolidone in the present invention.
  • Fig. 3 is a structural schematic diagram of vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer in the present invention.
  • a cosmetic makeup holding composition with a three-dimensional structure comprising:
  • At least one polyurethane A) which can be produced by reacting one or more water-insoluble, non-water-dispersible isocyanate-functional polyurethane prepolymers A1) with one or more amino-functional compounds A2) obtain;
  • amino-functional compound A2) is optionally a primary and/or secondary amine and/or a diamine; wherein the amino-functional compound A2) comprises at least one diamine.
  • amino functional compound A2) comprises an amino functional compound A2-I having no ionic group or an ionogenic group and an amino functional compound A2-II having an ionic group and/or an ionogenic group, wherein A2-I is not Diamines having ionic or ionogenic groups.
  • the isocyanate functional polyurethane prepolymer A1) can be selected from one or more polyols selected from polyether polyols, polycarbonate polyols, polyether polycarbonate polyols and/or polyester polyols and a or a plurality of polyisocyanates are obtained by reacting; wherein the polyisocyanate comprises hexamethylene diisocyanate and/or isophorone diisocyanate.
  • Pyrrolidone polymer B) is polyvinylpyrrolidone, referred to as PVP, wherein polyvinylpyrrolidone is a non-ionic polymer compound, which is a polymer formed by linear polymerization of N-vinylpyrrolidone (abbreviated as NVP); polyethylene
  • NVP N-vinylpyrrolidone
  • polyethylene The structural formula of pyrrolidone is (C6H9NO)n, and the average molecular weight is 40000.
  • the first is solution polymerization of NVP in an organic solvent, and then steam stripping;
  • the second route is the aqueous solution of NVP monomer and water-soluble cationic, anionic or nonionic monomer
  • Polymerization directly heat the NVP monomer to above 140°C, or add an initiator to the NVP solution to heat, or add an initiator to the NVP solution to polymerize by free radical solution, the solvent can be water, ethanol, benzene, or directly use PVP homopolymer can be obtained by irradiating NVP monomer or its solution with light. The structure and properties of the obtained polymer are different due to different polymerization methods.
  • composition and structure of the polymer obtained by free radical solution polymerization are relatively uniform.
  • the performance is also relatively stable, and it is the most commonly used method for NVP homopolymerization.
  • PVP homopolymers with different molecular weights and different water solubility can be obtained by adjusting the reaction conditions such as monomer concentration, polymerization temperature, and initiator dosage.
  • the average molecular weight of PVP is divided into four grades. It is customary to use K value to represent different K values to represent the average molecular weight range of PVP phase. K value is actually a feature related to the relative viscosity of PVP water solubility. The higher the viscosity, The higher the molecular weight of the polymer;
  • Pyrrolidone polymer B) also includes vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, referred to as VP/VA copolymers;
  • VP/VA products are copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate in different proportions, available in powder, liquid (including aqueous solution and alcohol solution), soluble in various organic solvents such as water and ethanol. It has good moldability, and the film is hard, glossy and easy to wash. Its structural formula is (C6H9NO)n.(C4H6O2)m.
  • the weight ratio of the solid components in the polyurethane A) dispersion to the solid components in the polyvinylpyrrolidone is preferably kept in the range from 5:1 to 1:5.
  • the weight ratio of solid components in the polyurethane A) dispersion plus solid components in polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer is preferably kept in the range from 20:1 to 1:10.
  • At least one of polyols, surfactants, preservatives, essences, moisturizers and active substances is also included.
  • the application of the cosmetic makeup holding composition comprising a three-dimensional structure in skin makeup setting.
  • water-insoluble, non-water-dispersible polyurethane prepolymer means that the solubility of the prepolymer in water at 23° C. is lower than 10 g/liter, preferably lower than 5 g/liter, And the prepolymer cannot produce a sedimentation-stable dispersion in water (especially deionized water) at 23°C. In other words, in any experiment where it was dispersed in water, the prepolymer precipitated out. Water here refers to deionized water without added surfactant.
  • the polyurethane prepolymer used in the present invention has terminal isocyanate groups, ie, the isocyanate groups are at the chain ends of the prepolymer. More preferably, all chain terminals of the prepolymer have isocyanate groups.
  • the polyurethane prepolymer used in the present invention preferably has neither ionic groups nor ionogenic groups substantially, that is, the content of ionic groups and ionogenic groups is suitably lower than 15 milliequivalent (Milliequivalent)/ 100g of polyurethane prepolymer, preferably less than 5 milliequivalents, more preferably less than 1 milliequivalents, particularly preferably less than 0.1 milliequivalents/lOOg of polyurethane prepolymer.
  • Milliequivalent milliequivalent
  • the amino-functional compound is selected from at least one of primary amines, secondary amines and diamines; more preferably, the amino-functional compound is selected from at least one of diamines. Still further preferably, the amino functional compound is an amino functional compound having an ionic or ionogenic group.
  • the basic structure of the alkyltin compound is a monosubstitution, a disubstitution, a trisubstitution and a tetrasubstitution (referring to the number of R).
  • R Its general structural formula is RnSnX4-n, and R is an alkyl compound. Include methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl. When n is 1-4, then there are corresponding compounds of one, two, three and four alkyl tins respectively.
  • X can be oxygen, sulfur, chlorine, bromine, iodine and organic acids.
  • the present invention provides cosmetic compositions, especially aqueous (ie aqueous) compositions, wherein the polyurethane is present in dispersed form, ie essentially in undissolved form.
  • aqueous ie aqueous
  • water generally constitutes the main constituent of the dispersion medium, being greater than 50% by weight based on the total amount of liquid dispersion medium in the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention preferably has less than 80 wt%, more preferably less than 55 wt%, even more preferably less than 40 wt% of volatile organic compounds ( VOC) content.
  • the aqueous polyurethane dispersion used to prepare the cosmetic composition has an Volatile organic compound (VOC) content.
  • VOC Volatile organic compound
  • the acid value of the prepolymer is suitably lower than 30 mg KOH/g, preferably lower than 10 mg KOH/g in terms of acidic ionic groups and/or ionogenic groups.
  • the acid number indicates the mass (mg) of potassium hydroxide (measured according to DIN EN ISO 211) required to neutralize 1 g of the study sample. Neutralized acids (ie corresponding salts) naturally have no or reduced acid numbers. A lower acid value can ensure that the hardness of the film is in an appropriate range.
  • the prepolymer used in the preparation of polyurethane is obtained by combining at least one of polyether polyol, polycarbonate polyol, polyether polycarbonate polyol and polyester polyol with at least one obtained by reacting polyisocyanates.
  • each of the above-mentioned polymer polyols has a number average molecular weight of preferably about 400-6000 g/mol (here and for the following molecular weight data, the molecular weight is determined by gel permeation Chromatography in tetrahydrofuran at 23° C. against polystyrene standards).
  • Their use during the preparation of polyurethanes or polyurethane prepolymers will result in corresponding polyether and/or polycarbonate and/or polyether-polycarbonate segments or polyester The formation of segments, the polyurethane has the corresponding molecular weight of these segments.
  • the above-mentioned various polymer polyols are polymer polyols having a linear structure.
  • the polyurethane is preferably a substantially linear molecule.
  • branched is also possible in other embodiments.
  • the polyurethane used has a number average molecular weight of about 1,000-200,000, preferably 5,000 to 150,000.
  • the polyurethane is added to the cosmetic composition, especially in the form of an aqueous dispersion.
  • polyurethanes or polyurethane dispersions used in the examples of the present application can be obtained by methods known in the prior art, using known components, such as US Patent Publication US 2011/002721 [Ren Yanni 1] 1, hereby cited method incorporated into the full text. The corresponding steps are briefly described as follows:
  • Polymer polyols preferably having a number-average molecular weight of 400-8000 g/mol (here and for the molecular weight data below, determined by gel permeation chromatography in tetrahydrofuran at 23° C. relative to polystyrene standards), more preferably 400-6000 g/mol and particularly preferably 600-3000 g/mol, and with an OH functionality of preferably 1.5-6, more preferably 1.8-3, particularly preferably 1.9-2.1, optionally with a molecular weight of preferably 62-399 g/mol A hydroxy functional compound, and optionally a nonionic hydrophilizing agent.
  • a number-average molecular weight of 400-8000 g/mol here and for the molecular weight data below, determined by gel permeation chromatography in tetrahydrofuran at 23° C. relative to polystyrene standards
  • 400-6000 g/mol and particularly preferably 600-3000 g/mol and with an OH functionality of preferably 1.5-6,
  • polyurethanes used according to the invention are preferably dispersed in water before, during or after step b).
  • reaction with a diamine or two or more diamines in step b) is carried out particularly preferably with chain extension.
  • monofunctional amines can additionally be added as chain terminators in order to control the molecular weight.
  • component A2 it is especially possible to use compounds which do not have ionic groups or ions
  • the examples and comparative examples in the present invention can be prepared as follows: at a stirring speed of 500-600rpm, add butanediol, propylene glycol and rheological agent into water until the dispersion is uniform; if there is VPVA or K-30 Need to be first heated to 50 °C and dissolve completely, continue to add separately as polyurethane of the present invention ( M170K) and polyvinylpyrrolidone ( Z-631), keep stirring to disperse evenly; stir at a speed of 200-300rmp and add other raw materials until they are evenly dispersed to obtain a facial makeup product.
  • the ratio of each component in the above table refers to the percentage of solid components in the various products used in the entire face makeup product.
  • the weight ratio of the solid components in the polyurethane dispersion to the solid components in the PVP is preferably kept in the range of 5:1 to 1:5.
  • the present invention uses the technology of polyurethane with pyrrolidone polymer, and pyrrolidone PVP builds a relatively hard film, and the combination of soft film formed by polyurethane and hard film formed by PVP and under the action of VP/VA film forming agent can be used on the skin. It has better adherence and better makeup setting effect.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

本发明公开了一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物，包含：a)至少一种聚氨酯A)，该聚氨酯A)可通过一种或多种水不溶性、非水分散性的异氰酸酯官能化聚氨酯预聚物A1)与一种或多种氨基官能化合物A2)反应来获得；和b)至少一种吡咯烷酮聚合物B)。本发明通过聚氨酯搭配吡咯烷酮聚合物的技术，吡咯烷酮PVP构建了比较硬的膜，通过聚氨酯形成的软膜和PVP所形成的硬膜组合以及在VP/VA成膜剂的作用下，在皮肤上能有更好的贴服性同时具有更好的定妆效果；本发明具有高成膜性以及在正常环境下的持妆保持性的同时，还具有好的洗去性、优良的膜硬度和弹性以及舒适的皮肤感觉。

Description

一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物 技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品技术领域，特别涉及一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物。
背景技术
人和动物的表皮都属于角质层蛋白。为皮肤定妆的组合物是化妆品组合物的一种，可以用来定妆和稳定不同的妆容。皮肤定妆组合物主要地呈现为定妆喷雾或定妆水的形式。定妆喷雾和定妆水在它们的组成上几乎没有差别，但是在它们的应用上却不同。定妆喷雾被施用于潮湿皮肤上，作为使该妆容模型化的助剂。与它相反，定妆喷雾被喷雾到干的已经式样化的皮肤上以固定该妆容。除定妆喷雾或定妆水之外，还有皮肤定妆凝胶剂的形式。
现有技术的发展还停留在一种吡咯烷酮PVP作为主要定妆成分的阶段，最主要是通过吡咯烷酮PVP的硬膜能带来的定妆效果，其缺点是PVP形成的膜比较硬，会带来不舒适的感觉，同时PVP的膜不具备抗水性，所以定妆的效果不持久。
新的专利技术通过在十万道尔顿左右的大分子PVP和VPVA在皮肤上面形成框架结构，然后通过一万道尔顿左右的中等分子量的聚氨酯-10和大分子量的PVP和VPVA形成互穿网络的构架，最后让多元醇和活性成分嵌入在该空间网络架构上形成有弹性的立体空间膜。整个成膜的过程是随着水分的挥发，首先大分子PVP和VPVA共聚物通过氢键的作用力，聚合物的链条从团聚的状态慢慢伸展开来，变成直线的链条，然后再通过支链上的NCO基团和CH基团形成氢键的作用力，最终让一根一根直线的大分子链串成空间网状的结构。其次中等分子的聚氨酯-10也是让聚合物的链条从团聚的状态慢慢伸展开来，变成直线的链条，然后再通过主链上的NCO基团和NH基团形成氢键的作用力，最终让一根一根直线的大小不同的分子链串联成致密的空间网状的结构。最后因为小分子的多元醇，含有大量的羟基，会游离在聚合物形成的空间网状结构的缝隙当中，从而形成大中小分子的三维一体的立体空间交叉网络。
发明内容
针对现有技术中的上述不足，本发明的目的是提供一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物。本发明通过以下技术方案实现。
一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物，包含：
a)至少一种聚氨酯A)，该聚氨酯A)可通过一种或多种水不溶性、非水分散性的异氰酸酯官能化聚氨酯预聚物A1)与一种或多种氨基官能化合物A2)反应来获得；和
b)至少一种吡咯烷酮聚合物B)。
作为优选的，其中氨基官能化合物A2)任选地为伯和/或仲胺和/或二胺；其中氨基官能化合物A2)包含至少一种二胺。
作为优选的，其中氨基官能化合物A2)包含不具有离子基团或离子源基团的氨基官能化合物A2-I和具有离子基团和/或离子源基团的氨基官能化合物A2-II。
作为优选的，其中氨基官能化合物A2)包含不具有离子基团或离子源基团的氨基官能化合物A2-I和具有离子基团和/或离子源基团的氨基官能化合物A2-II,其中A2-I为不具有离子基团或离子源基团的二胺。
作为优选的，其中异氰酸酯官能化聚氨酯预聚物A1)可通过选自聚醚多元醇、聚碳酸酯多元醇、聚醚聚碳酸酯多元醇和/或聚酯多元醇中的一种或多种多元醇与一种或多种多异氰酸酯进行反应来获得；其中多异氰酸酯包含六亚甲基二异氰酸酯和/或异氟尔酮二异氰酸酯。
作为优选的，吡咯烷酮聚合物B)包括聚乙烯吡咯烷酮，简称PVP，是由N-乙烯基吡咯烷酮线性聚合而成的高分子聚合物，其中N-乙烯基吡咯烷酮简称NVP；聚乙烯吡咯烷酮结构式为(C6H9NO)n，平均分子量为40000。
作为优选的，聚乙烯吡咯烷酮生产聚合有二条路线：PVP的平均分子量大小分为四级，习惯上常以K值来表示不同的K值代表相的PVP平均分子量范围，K值实际上是以PVP水溶性的相对粘度有关的特征，粘度越高，聚合物分子量越大；聚乙烯吡络烷酮的分子量优选是K值在27到32或者80到97。
作为优选的，吡咯烷酮聚合物B)还包括乙烯基吡咯烷酮/醋酸乙烯共聚物，简称VP/VA共聚物；乙烯基吡咯烷酮/醋酸乙烯共聚物由不同比例的N-乙烯基吡咯烷酮和醋酸乙烯共聚而成的共聚物，以粉末、液体的形态存在，其结构式为(C6H9NO)n.(C4H6O2)m。
作为优选的，聚氨酯A)分散体中固体组分和聚乙烯吡咯烷酮中固体组分的重量比优选保持在5:1至1:5的范围内。
作为优选的，聚氨酯A)分散体中固体组分加聚乙烯吡咯烷酮中固体组分和乙烯基吡咯烷酮/醋酸乙烯共聚物的重量比优选保持在20:1至1:10的范围内。
作为优选的，还包括多元醇、表面活性剂、防腐剂、香精、保湿剂和活性物中至少一种。
本发明的有益效果为：
本发明通过聚氨酯形成的软膜和PVP所形成的硬膜组合以及在VP/VA成膜剂的作用下，在皮肤上能有更好的贴服性同时具有更好的定妆效果。
本发明具有高成膜性以及在正常环境下的持妆保持性的同时，还具有好的洗去性、优良的膜硬度和弹性以及舒适的皮肤感觉。
附图说明
图1为本发明中聚氨酯的结构式示意图；
图2为本发明中聚乙烯吡咯烷酮的结构式示意图；
图3为本发明中乙烯基吡咯烷酮/醋酸乙烯共聚物的结构示意图。
具体实施方式
为了使本发明的目的、技术方案和优点更容易被清楚地理解，下面将结合本发明实施例中的附图，对本发明实施例中的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述，显然，所描述的实施例是本发明一部分实施例，而不是全部的实施例。通常在此处附图中描述和示出的本发明实施例的组件可以以各种不同的配置来布置和设计。
一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物，包含：
a)至少一种聚氨酯A)，该聚氨酯A)可通过一种或多种水不溶性、非水分散性的异氰酸酯官能化聚氨酯预聚物A1)与一种或多种氨基官能化合物A2)反应来获得；和
b)至少一种吡咯烷酮聚合物B)。
其中氨基官能化合物A2)任选地为伯和/或仲胺和/或二胺；其中氨基官能化合物A2)包含至少一种二胺。
其中氨基官能化合物A2)包含不具有离子基团或离子源基团的氨基官能化合物A2-I和具有离子基团和/或离子源基团的氨基官能化合物A2-II,其中A2-I为不具有离子基团或离子源基团的二胺。
其中异氰酸酯官能化聚氨酯预聚物A1)可通过选自聚醚多元醇、聚碳酸酯多元醇、聚醚聚碳酸酯多元醇和/或聚酯多元醇中的一种或多种多元醇与一种或多种多异氰酸酯进行反应来获得；其中多异氰酸酯包含六亚甲基二异氰酸酯和/或异氟尔酮二异氰酸酯。
吡咯烷酮聚合物B)为聚乙烯吡咯烷酮，简称PVP，其中聚乙烯吡咯烷酮是一种非离子型高分子化合物，是由N-乙烯基吡咯烷酮(简称NVP)线性聚合而成的高分子聚合物；聚乙烯吡咯烷酮结构式为(C6H9NO)n，平均分子量为40000。
其中，聚乙烯吡咯烷酮生产聚合有二条路线：第一是NVP在有机溶剂中进行溶液聚合，然后进行蒸汽汽提；第二条路线为NVP单体与水溶性阳离子、阴离子或非离子单体进行水溶液聚合；将NVP单体直接加热到140℃以上，或者在NVP溶液中加入引发剂加热，或者在NVP的溶液中加入引发剂通过自由基溶液聚合，溶剂可以是水、乙醇、苯，或者直接用 光照射NVP单体或其溶液都可以得到PVP均聚物，聚合方法不同，得到的聚合物结构和性能都有所不同，其中自由基溶液聚合得到的聚合物组成、结构较均匀。性能也比较稳定，是NVP均聚最常用的方法，调节单体浓度、聚合温度、引发剂用量等反应条件即可以得到不同分子量和不同水溶性的PVP均聚物。
PVP的平均分子量大小分为四级，习惯上常以K值来表示不同的K值代表相的PVP平均分子量范围，K值实际上是以PVP水溶性的相对粘度有关的特征，粘度越高，聚合物分子量越大；聚乙烯吡络烷酮的分子量优选是K值在27到32或者80到97。
吡咯烷酮聚合物B)还包括乙烯基吡咯烷酮/醋酸乙烯共聚物，简称VP/VA共聚物；VP/VA产品由不同比例的N-乙烯基吡咯烷酮和醋酸乙烯共聚而成的共聚物，以粉末、液体(包括水溶液和酒精溶液)的形态存在，溶于水、乙醇等多种有机溶剂。具有良好的成模性，且膜坚硬、光泽好、易水洗，其结构式为(C6H9NO)n.(C4H6O2)m。
作为优选，聚氨酯A)分散体中固体组分和聚乙烯吡咯烷酮中固体组分的重量比优选保持在5:1至1:5的范围内。
作为优选，聚氨酯A)分散体中固体组分加聚乙烯吡咯烷酮中固体组分和乙烯基吡咯烷酮/醋酸乙烯共聚物的重量比优选保持在20:1至1:10的范围内。
作为优选，还包括多元醇、表面活性剂、防腐剂、香精、保湿剂和活性物中至少一种。
作为优选，包括一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物在皮肤定妆中的应用。
在本发明的范围内，术语"水不溶性、非水分散性的聚氨酯预聚物"指，该预聚物在23℃下在水中的溶解度是低于10g/升，优选低于5g/升，并且预聚物在23℃下在水(尤其去离子水)中无法产生沉降稳定的分散体。换句话说，在任何将它分散在水中的实验中，预聚物沉淀出来。此处的水指没有添加表面活性剂的去离子水。
在一些实施例中，优选地，本发明使用的聚氨酯预聚物具有末端异氰酸酯基，即该异氰酸酯基在预聚物的链末端。进一步优选地，预聚物的全部链末端均具有异氰酸酯基。
此外，本发明使用的聚氨酯预聚物优选基本上既不具有离子基团也不具有离子源基团，即离子基团和离子源基团的含量合适的是低于15毫克当量(Mil1iequivalent)/100g的聚氨酯预聚物，优选低于5毫克当量，进一步优选低于1毫克当量，特别优选低于0.1毫克当量/l00g的聚氨酯预聚物。
在一些实施例中，优选地，氨基官能化合物选自伯胺、仲胺和二胺中至少一种；进一步优选地，氨基官能化合物选自二胺中至少一种。更进一步优选地，氨基官能化合物是具有离子基团或离子源基团的氨基官能化合物。
在一些实施例中，优选地，烷基锡化合物其基本结构有一取代体、二取代体、三取代体 和四取代体(指R的数目)。其结构通式为RnSnX4-n，R为烷基的化合物。计有甲基、乙基、丙基、丁基、辛基。当n为1-4时，则分别有一、二、三、四烷基锡的相应化合物。X可以是氧、硫、氯、溴、碘和有机酸。
本发明提供的化妆品组合物，尤其是含水的(即水性的)组合物，其中聚氨酯以分散形式即基本上以非溶解的形式存在。除可能存在的其它液体介质例如溶剂之外，水通常构成了分散体介质的主要成分，基于化妆品组合物中液体分散介质的总量计其大于50wt％。
在一些实施例中，优选地，以化妆品组合物为基础计，本发明的化妆品组合物优选具有低于80wt％，更优选低于55wt％，甚至更优选低于40wt％的挥发性有机化合物(VOC)含量。
在一些实施例中，进一步优选地，以该水性聚氨酯分散体为基础计，用于制备化妆品组合物的水性聚氨酯分散体具有低于10wt％，优选低于3wt％，更优选低于1wt％的挥发性有机化合物(VOC)含量。
就酸性离子基团和/或离子源基团而言，预聚物的酸值合适地是低于30mg KOH/g，优选低于10mg KOH/g。该酸值表示为了中和1g的研究样品所需要的氢氧化钾质量(mg)(根据DIN EN ISO 211测量)。中和的酸(即相应盐)自然不具有酸值或具有减低的酸值。较低的酸值可保证成膜硬度在合适的范围内。
在一些实施例中，优选地，用于聚氨酯的制备中的预聚物是通过聚醚多元醇、聚碳酸酯多元醇、聚醚聚碳酸酯多元醇和聚酯多元醇中至少一种与至少一种多异氰酸酯反应得到。
在一些实施例中，更优选地，上述聚合物多元醇中的每一种具有优选约400-6000g/mol的数均分子量(这里和对于下面的分子量数据而言，该分子量是由凝胶渗透色谱法在四氢呋喃中、23℃下相对于聚苯乙烯标准物来测定)。在聚氨酯或聚氨酯预聚物的制备过程中它们的使用将由于与多异氰酸酯反应的结果而导致在聚氨酯中相应聚醚和/或聚碳酸酯和/或聚醚-聚碳酸酯链段或聚酯链段的形成，该聚氨酯具有这些链段的相应分子量。进一步优选地，上述的各种聚合物多元醇是具有线性结构聚合物多元醇。
在一些实施例中，再进一步优选地，聚氨酯优选是基本上是线型分子。当然，在另一些实施例中也可是支化的。
在一些实施例中，使用的聚氨酯的数均分子量是约1000-200000，优选5000到150000。
在本申请一些优选的实施例中，聚氨酯尤其是以水分散体形式添加到化妆品组合物中。
本申请实施例所使用的聚氨酯或聚氨酯分散体可通过现有技术中已知的方法，使用已知的组分获得，例如美国专利公开US 2011/002721[任燕妮1]1，在此以引用的方式并入全文。 相应的步骤简述如下：
a)制备由以下组分形成的异氰酸酯官能化聚氨酯预聚物
有机多异氰酸酯，
聚合物多元醇，优选具有400-8000g/mol的数均分子量(这里和对于下面的分子量数据，由凝胶渗透色谱法在四氢呋喃中在23℃下相对于聚苯乙烯标准物测定)，更优选400-6000g/mol和特别优选600-3000g/mol，和具有优选1.5-6，更优选1.8-3，特别优选1.9-2.1的OH官能度，任选的具有优选62-399g/mol的分子量的羟基官能化合物，和任选的非离子亲水化试剂。
b)然后让它们的一些或全部游离NCO基团与一种或多种氨基官能化合物A2),如伯和/或仲胺和/或二胺进行反应。根据本发明使用的聚氨酯优选在步骤b)之前、过程中或之后被分散在水中。
在步骤b)中与二胺或两种或多种二胺的反应特别优选用扩链来进行。在这方面，单官能的胺能够另外作为链终止剂来添加以便控制分子量。
作为组分A2)，尤其能够使用不具有离子基团或离子
本发明通过下列的实施例来举例说明，这些实施例不应该认为是有限制的。除非另有说明，否则全部的定量数据，分数和百分数是基于重量或基于组合物的总重量。
原料和试剂：
表1：
Figure PCTCN2022078952-appb-000001
本发明中的实施例和对比例都可以按照如下方式制备：在500-600rpm的搅拌速度下， 将丁二醇、丙二醇和流变剂加入到水中，直到分散均匀；如果有VPVA或K-30需要先加热至50℃溶解完全，继续分别加入如本发明的聚氨酯(
Figure PCTCN2022078952-appb-000002
M170K)和聚乙烯吡咯烷酮(
Figure PCTCN2022078952-appb-000003
Z-631)，持续搅拌使其分散均匀；在200-300rmp的速度下搅拌加入其它原料直至分散均匀得到脸部定妆产品。
表2：本发明中的实施例或对比例都具有如下表所列的组分：
Figure PCTCN2022078952-appb-000004
表3：通过调节聚氨酯与聚乙烯吡咯烷酮的成分和配比，得到如下表所示的实施例组分(％)：
Figure PCTCN2022078952-appb-000005
上表中各组分的配比均指代使用的各种产品中的固体组分占整个脸部定妆产品的百分比。 聚氨酯分散体中固体组分和PVP中固体组分的重量比优选保持在5:1至1:5的范围内。
表4：对比例1-8和实施例1-6
Figure PCTCN2022078952-appb-000006
本发明通过聚氨酯搭配吡咯烷酮聚合物的技术，吡咯烷酮PVP构建了比较硬的膜，通过聚氨酯形成的软膜和PVP所形成的硬膜组合以及在VP/VA成膜剂的作用下，在皮肤上能有更好的贴服性同时具有更好的定妆效果。
以上所述仅为本发明专利的较佳实施例而已，并不用以限制本发明专利，凡在本发明专利的精神和原则之内所作的任何修改、等同替换和改进等，均应包含在本发明专利的保护范围之内。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物，其特征在于：包含：
    a)至少一种聚氨酯A)，该聚氨酯A)可通过一种或多种水不溶性、非水分散性的异氰酸酯官能化聚氨酯预聚物A1)与一种或多种氨基官能化合物A2)反应来获得；和
    b)至少一种吡咯烷酮聚合物B)。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物，其特征在于：其中氨基官能化合物A2)任选地为伯和/或仲胺和/或二胺；其中氨基官能化合物A2)包含至少一种二胺。
  3. 根据权利要求2所述的一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物，其特征在于：其中氨基官能化合物A2)包含不具有离子基团或离子源基团的氨基官能化合物A2-I和具有离子基团和/或离子源基团的氨基官能化合物A2-II,其中A2-I为不具有离子基团或离子源基团的二胺。
  4. 根据权利要求3所述的一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物，其特征在于：其中异氰酸酯官能化聚氨酯预聚物A1)可通过选自聚醚多元醇、聚碳酸酯多元醇、聚醚聚碳酸酯多元醇和/或聚酯多元醇中的一种或多种多元醇与一种或多种多异氰酸酯进行反应来获得；
    其中多异氰酸酯包含六亚甲基二异氰酸酯和/或异氟尔酮二异氰酸酯。
  5. 根据权利要求1所述的一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物，其特征在于：吡咯烷酮聚合物B)包括聚乙烯吡咯烷酮，简称PVP，是由N-乙烯基吡咯烷酮线性聚合而成的高分子聚合物，其中N-乙烯基吡咯烷酮简称NVP；聚乙烯吡咯烷酮结构式为(C6H9NO)n，平均分子量为40000。
  6. 根据权利要求5所述的一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物，其特征在于：PVP的平均分子量大小分为四级，习惯上常以K值来表示不同的K值代表相的PVP平均分子量范围，K值实际上是以PVP水溶性的相对粘度有关的特征，粘度越高，聚合物分子量越大；
    聚乙烯吡络烷酮的分子量优选是K值在27到32或者80到97。
  7. 根据权利要求1所述的一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物，其特征在于：吡咯烷酮聚合物B)还包括乙烯基吡咯烷酮/醋酸乙烯共聚物，简称VP/VA共聚物；乙烯基吡咯烷酮/醋酸乙烯共聚物由不同比例的N-乙烯基吡咯烷酮和醋酸乙烯共聚而成的共聚物，以粉末、液体的形态存在，其结构式为(C6H9NO)n.(C4H6O2)m。
  8. 根据权利要求1～7任一项所述的一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物，其特征在于：聚氨酯A)分散体中固体组分和聚乙烯吡咯烷酮中固体组分的重量比优选保持在5:1至1:5的范围内。
  9. 根据权利要求1～7任一项所述的一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物，其特征在于： 聚氨酯A)分散体中固体组分加聚乙烯吡咯烷酮中固体组分和乙烯基吡咯烷酮/醋酸乙烯共聚物的重量比优选保持在20:1至1:10的范围内。
  10. 根据权利要求1～7任一项所述的一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物，其特征在于，还包括多元醇、表面活性剂、防腐剂、香精、保湿剂和活性物中至少一种。
PCT/CN2022/078952 2021-07-19 2022-03-03 一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物 WO2023000676A1 (zh)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN202110811929.2A CN113599304A (zh) 2021-07-19 2021-07-19 一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物
CN202110811929.2 2021-07-19

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2023000676A1 true WO2023000676A1 (zh) 2023-01-26

Family

ID=78337839

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/CN2022/078952 WO2023000676A1 (zh) 2021-07-19 2022-03-03 一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物

Country Status (2)

Country Link
CN (1) CN113599304A (zh)
WO (1) WO2023000676A1 (zh)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113599304A (zh) * 2021-07-19 2021-11-05 上海永熙信息科技有限公司 一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物
CN115252468B (zh) * 2022-07-14 2024-04-19 上海永熙信息科技有限公司 一种网络结构的驻留型持续控油化妆品组合物

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6132739A (en) * 1998-09-01 2000-10-17 Amway Corporation Makeup compositions and methods of making same
DE10063130A1 (de) * 2000-12-18 2002-06-20 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung von Polyurethanen zur Verbesserung der Wasserfestigkeit kosmetischer oder dermatalogischer Formulierungen
CN111432795A (zh) * 2017-09-29 2020-07-17 莱雅公司 在涂敷于角蛋白材料后能够形成多层结构的化妆品组合物
KR20210028891A (ko) * 2019-09-05 2021-03-15 (주)아모레퍼시픽 내수성 및 내유성을 가지는 메이크업 화장료 조성물과 이의 제조방법
CN113081899A (zh) * 2021-04-19 2021-07-09 珠海亚拓生物科技有限公司 一种化妆品组合物及其应用
CN113599304A (zh) * 2021-07-19 2021-11-05 上海永熙信息科技有限公司 一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2771927B1 (fr) * 1997-12-05 2001-12-07 Oreal Composition cosmetique ou dermatologique comprenant un polymere filmogene et une emulsion aqueuse de silicone
EP2105126A1 (de) * 2008-03-26 2009-09-30 Bayer MaterialScience AG Dekorative kosmetische Zusammensetzungen
EP2221043A1 (de) * 2009-02-21 2010-08-25 Bayer MaterialScience AG Haarfestiger-Zusammensetzung
EP3368003A4 (en) * 2015-10-30 2019-07-03 Covestro Deutschland AG COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYURETHANE
US10219993B2 (en) * 2015-12-31 2019-03-05 L'oreal Systems and methods for improving the appearance of the skin

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6132739A (en) * 1998-09-01 2000-10-17 Amway Corporation Makeup compositions and methods of making same
DE10063130A1 (de) * 2000-12-18 2002-06-20 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung von Polyurethanen zur Verbesserung der Wasserfestigkeit kosmetischer oder dermatalogischer Formulierungen
CN111432795A (zh) * 2017-09-29 2020-07-17 莱雅公司 在涂敷于角蛋白材料后能够形成多层结构的化妆品组合物
KR20210028891A (ko) * 2019-09-05 2021-03-15 (주)아모레퍼시픽 내수성 및 내유성을 가지는 메이크업 화장료 조성물과 이의 제조방법
CN113081899A (zh) * 2021-04-19 2021-07-09 珠海亚拓生物科技有限公司 一种化妆品组合物及其应用
CN113599304A (zh) * 2021-07-19 2021-11-05 上海永熙信息科技有限公司 一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN113599304A (zh) 2021-11-05

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
WO2023000676A1 (zh) 一种空间立体结构的化妆品持妆组合物
EP3463274B1 (en) Composition comprising an anionic surfactant, an organosilane and polyoxyalkylenated or quaternised amino silicone, and cosmetic treatment process
RU2508088C2 (ru) Композиция для укладки волос
EP0938889B1 (de) Verwendung von Polyurethan in Haarfestigungsmitteln oder in Bindemitteln der pharmazeutischen Industrie sowie Beschichtungsmittel für die Textil- und Papierindustrie
CN103547605B (zh) 用于发用化妆品的聚氨酯脲混合物
US20070166250A1 (en) Cosmetic polymer composition and cosmetic
JPH11310520A (ja) 毛髪固定用途のためのカルボキシレ―ト官能価を有するポリウレタン
US20100215608A1 (en) Hair setting composition
US7618617B2 (en) Aqueous hair treatment compositions, thickened with an amphiphilic linear block copolymer
US20060067907A1 (en) Cationic or cationizable polyurethane with elastic character
CN113015560A (zh) 至少部分源于可再生资源的聚氨酯脲分散体和它们的生产和用途
US20060024259A1 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising, in a non-fatty medium, at least one linear sulfonic polyester and at least one nonionic thickening polymer, processes using this composition and uses thereof
MXPA03004750A (es) Composicion capilar acuosa espesada por copolimero lineal secuenciado anfifilo.
KR101845967B1 (ko) 소수성 형상 기억 폴리머를 함유하는 수분산 아이메이크업 조성물
EP1366745B1 (fr) Compositions capillaires contenant au moins un copolymère diblocs amphiphile non-épaississant et au moins un polymère filmogène bénéfique pour les cheveux
US20040033206A1 (en) Hair treatment compositions containing at least one non-thickening amphiphilic diblock copolymer and at least one film-forming polymer which is beneficial for the hair
US9125838B2 (en) Whipped composition for the treatment of keratin fibers
JP2021514978A (ja) ヘアスタイルの耐性を改善するための化粧品組成物
WO2023273381A1 (zh) 一种高成膜性的化妆品定妆组合物
CN106659669A (zh) 用于发型定型组合物的聚氨酯脲溶液
US8246940B2 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising gellan gum or a derivative thereof, a fixing polymer, a monovalent salt and an alcohol, process of using the same
US11234923B2 (en) Cosmetic composition and a cleaning and caring product comprising the same
US20060024261A1 (en) Cosmetic compositions comprising a linear sulfonic polyester and a polyurethane, processes using these compositions and uses thereof
CN113797117A (zh) 具有妆容保持力和喷射力的喷射剂型化妆料组合物
JPH04327519A (ja) 水性ゲル状整髪剤

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 22844849

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE

122 Ep: pct application non-entry in european phase

Ref document number: 22844849

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1