WO2022118982A1 - Procédé de traitement de fibres kératiniques - Google Patents

Procédé de traitement de fibres kératiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022118982A1
WO2022118982A1 PCT/JP2021/044604 JP2021044604W WO2022118982A1 WO 2022118982 A1 WO2022118982 A1 WO 2022118982A1 JP 2021044604 W JP2021044604 W JP 2021044604W WO 2022118982 A1 WO2022118982 A1 WO 2022118982A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
acid
weight
keratin fibers
ester
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2021/044604
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Manon Chaumontet
Patrick Minou
Adrien KAESER
Isaac Eng Ting LEE
Tong XING
Yoshiki Shibuya
Yi-Yun TSAO
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from FR2100406A external-priority patent/FR3118876B1/fr
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2022118982A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022118982A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42—Amides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a combination of three or more compositions, as well as a kit or a use relating to the process.
  • An objective of the present invention is to provide a process for treating keratin fibers such as hair which can provide easy combing of hair and smooth feeling to the touch of hair, in particular even after several shampooings of the keratin fibers.
  • a process for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair comprising:
  • the first composition comprises (al) at least one compound chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives
  • the second composition comprises (bl) at least one cationic polyamino acid
  • the third composition comprises (cl) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof.
  • the (al) compound chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives in the first composition may be selected from the group consisting of urea, hydroxyethylurea and a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of the (al) compound chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives in the first composition may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cationic moiety of the (bl) cationic polyamino acid in the second composition may comprise at least one quaternary ammonium group.
  • the (bl) cationic polyamino acid in the second composition may be selected from the group consisting of cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, and a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of the (bl) cationic polyamino acid(s) in the second composition may be 0.2% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the second composition may further comprise (b2) at least one hydroxyl acid or salt thereof.
  • the (cl) ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, in the third composition may be selected from the esters of the following general formula (I):
  • CORiCO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue
  • OR 2 O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue
  • OR 3 represents a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue, and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, or the following general formula (II): in which: n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15,
  • COR' i CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue
  • OR' 2 O represents a diglyceryl residue of the following general formula (III): in which:
  • R' 3 represents H or OR' 3 represents a fatty acid residue, or the following general formula (IV):
  • ORr O represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of a dimerdilinoleic acid
  • COR2"CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue
  • h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9.
  • the (cl) ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, in the third composition may be selected from the group consisting of the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimerdilinoleate copolymer, bis- behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, and a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of the (cl) ester(s) of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or ester(s) thereof, in the third composition may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the third composition may further comprise (c2) at least one cationic surfactant.
  • the process according to the present invention may further comprise the step of:
  • the fourth composition comprises (dl) at least one aminosilicone.
  • the fourth composition may further comprise (d2) at least one silicone other than the (dl) aminosilicone.
  • the process according to the present invention may further comprise the step of:
  • the fifth composition comprises (el) at least one aminosilicone.
  • the fifth composition may further comprise (e2) at least one silicone other than the (el) aminosilicone.
  • the present invention also relates to a kit for keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising
  • a third compartment comprising a third composition
  • the first composition comprises (al) at least one compound chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives
  • the second composition comprises (bl) at least one cationic polyamino acid
  • the third composition comprises (cl) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof.
  • the present invention also relates to a use of a combination of
  • the first composition comprises (al) at least one compound chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives
  • the second composition comprises (bl) at least one cationic polyamino acid
  • the third composition comprises (cl) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, for improving combing of keratin fibers and/or improving smoothness of keratin fibers.
  • the present invention mainly relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:
  • the first composition comprises (al) at least one compound chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives
  • the second composition comprises (bl) at least one cationic polyamino acid
  • the third composition comprises (cl) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof.
  • the process according to the present invention can make combing of keratin fibers such as hair easy. This effect can be immediately provided by the process according to the present invention. Therefore, instant gratification can be provided. Also, this effect can be maintained even after several shampooings, and therefore, can last for a long period of time such as a week or several weeks.
  • the process according to the present invention can also provide smooth feeling to the touch of keratin fibers such as hair.
  • the keratin fibers treated with the process according to the present invention can be smooth.
  • This effect can be immediately provided by the process according to the present invention. Therefore, instant gratification can be provided. Also, this effect can be maintained even after several shampooings, and therefore, can last for a long period of time such as a week or several weeks.
  • the process according to the present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair with improved manageability. This effect can be immediately provided by the process according to the present invention. Also, this effect can be maintained even after several shampooings. Thus, it is possible by the present invention to provide keratin fibers such as hair with easy-to-style manageability which can last for a long period of time such as a week or several weeks.
  • the present invention can also strengthen the keratin fibers.
  • the process according to the present invention is believed to repair damage of keratin fibers such as hair from both the outside and inside of the keratin fibers.
  • the above effects by the present invention could be attributed to the repair of keratin fibers.
  • the present invention can be used for treating, e.g., caring for or conditioning, keratin fibers such as hair.
  • the present invention can be performed, for example, in a salon or at home.
  • One aspect of the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:
  • the first composition comprises (al) at least one compound chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives
  • the second composition comprises (bl) at least one cationic polyamino acid
  • the third composition comprises (cl) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof.
  • treating the keratin fibers with a first composition, before the step (2) is optional, and may not be necessary. However, it is preferable to perform the step (1) before the step (2).
  • the first composition which may be used in the present invention comprises (al) at least one compound chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives (hereafter, this may be referred to as (al) compound).
  • (al) compound two or more (al) compounds may be used in combination.
  • a single type of (al) compound or a combination of different types of (al) compounds may be used.
  • Urea is represented by the chemical formula: H2N-CO-NH2
  • urea derivative means any compound other than urea CO(NH ) itself, comprising in its chemical formula a carbonyl group simply bonded to two nitrogen atoms, i.e. a unit
  • the (al) compound may be chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or (II), salts thereof or hydrates thereof: in which:
  • Rl, R2, R3 and R4 represent, independently:
  • Rl and R2 and also R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom that bears them, an imidazole ring;
  • R5 and R6 represent, independently of each other:
  • the (al) compound is of formula (I) and may be chosen from: urea, methylurea, ethylurea, propylurea, n-butylurea, sec-butylurea, isobutylurea, tert-butylurea, cyclopentylurea, ethoxyurea, hydroxyethylurea, N-(2- hydroxypropyl)urea, N-(3-hydroxypropyl)urea, N-(2-dimethylaminopropyl)urea, N-(3- dimethylaminopropyl)urea, l-(3-hydroxyphenyl)urea, benzylurea, N-carbamoylmaleamide, N-carbamoylmaleamic acid, piperidinecarboxamide, l,2,4-triazol-4-ylurea, hydantoic acid, methyl allophanate,
  • the (al) compound is of formula (II) and may be chosen from: parabanic acid, l,2-dihydro-3H-l,2,4-triazol-2-one, barbituric acid, uracil, 1 -methyluracil, 3 -methyluracil, 5 -methyluracil, 1,3 -dimethyluracil, 5-azauracil, 6- azauracil, 5 -fluorouracil, 6-fluorouracil, l,3-dimethyl-5-fhiorouracil, 5 -aminouracil, 6- aminouracil, 6-amino-l-methyluracil, 6-amino- 1,3 -dimethyluracil, 4-chlorouracil, 5- chlorouracil, 5,6-dihydrouracil, 5,6-dihydro-5-methyluracil, 2-imidazolidone, l-methyl-2- imidazolidinone, l,3-
  • hydantoin 1 -methylhydantoin, 5 -methylhydantoin, 5,5- dimethylhydantoin, 5 -ethylhydantoin, 5-N-propylhydantoin, 5-ethyl-5-methylhydantoin, 5- hydroxy- 5 -methylhydantoin, 5 -hydroxymethylhydantoin, 1 -allylhydantoin, 1- aminohydantoin, hydanto in-5 -acetic acid, 4-amino-l, 2, 4-triazolone-3, 5-dione, hexahydro-
  • the (al) compound(s) be are chosen from urea, hydroxyethylurea and a mixture of these compounds.
  • the amount of the (al) compound(s) in the first composition may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (al) compound(s) in the first composition may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (al) compound(s) in the first composition may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the first composition may further comprise (a2) water.
  • the amount of the (a2) water in the first composition may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 55% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
  • the amount of the (a2) water in the first composition may be 80% by weight or less, preferably 75% by weight or less, and more preferably 70% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
  • the amount of the (a2) water in the first composition may be from 50% to 80% by weight, preferably from 55% to 75% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
  • the first composition may further comprise, in addition to the aforementioned essential/optional components, further optional components typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, nonionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants, oils, dyes, fillers, polyols such as glycols and glycerol, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, UV filters, natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables, preservatives, and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.
  • cosmetics specifically, nonionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants, oils, dyes, fillers, polyols such as glycols and glycerol, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, UV filters, natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables, preservatives, and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.
  • the first composition may comprise the above further optional component(s) in an amount of from 0.001% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the first composition can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients in accordance with any of the processes which are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • the first composition can be in the form of a fluid, preferably a liquid or a paste, and more preferably a liquid.
  • the first composition can be used for treating, e.g., caring for or conditioning, keratin fibers.
  • the first composition can in particular be effective in improving combing and smoothness at the initial stage.
  • the first composition may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a rinse-off type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a rinse-off type hair cosmetic composition.
  • the first composition may be used in hair care cosmetic products such as conditioners and the like. It is preferable that the first composition be in the form of a lotion. ⁇ Second Composition ⁇
  • the second composition used in the present invention comprises (bl) at least one cationic polyamino acid. Two or more cationic polyamino acids may be used in combination.
  • a single type of cationic polyamino acid or a combination of different types of cationic polyamino acids may be used.
  • the (bl) cationic polyamino acid has a positive charge density.
  • the charge density of the (bl) cationic polyamino acid may be from 0.01 meq/g to 20 meq/g, preferably from 0.05 tol5 meq/g, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10 meq/g.
  • the molecular weight of the (bl) cationic polyamino acid be 1,000 or more, preferably 5,000 or more, more preferably 10,000 or more, and even more preferably 20,000 or more, and/or 1,000,000 or less, more preferably 500,000 or less, and even more preferably 100,000 or less.
  • molecular weight means a number-average molecular weight (for non-proteins) or daltons (for proteins).
  • the (bl) cationic polyamino acid has at least one positively charged moiety. It is preferable that the positively charged moiety comprise at least one quaternary ammonium group, more preferably at least one trialkylammonium group, and even more preferably at least one trimethylammonium group. Thus, it is preferable that the (bl) cationic polyamino acid comprise at least one quaternary ammonium group, more preferably at least one trialkylammonium group, and even more preferably at least one trimethylammonium group.
  • the positively charged moiety may also have at least one hydroxyl group, preferably one hydroxyl group.
  • the positively charged moiety may be a hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium group.
  • the (bl) cationic polyamino acid may be cationic homopolymers or copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups and carboxyl groups.
  • the amino group may be a primary, secondary, and tertiary amino group.
  • the amino group may be present in a polymer backbone or a pendent group, if present, of the (bl) cationic polyamino acid.
  • the carboxyl group may be present in a pendent group, if present, of the (bl) cationic polyamino acids.
  • (bl) cationic polyamino acids mention may be made of cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, and a mixture thereof.
  • the (bl) cationic polyamino acid in the second composition used in the present invention not be a synthetic cationic polymer.
  • the (bl) cationic polyamino acid be from natural origins. It is preferable that the (bl) cationic polyamino acid be derived from plants, and more preferably plant proteins.
  • the (bl) cationic polymino acid be selected from the group consisting of hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, and a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of the (bl) cationic polyamino acid(s) in the second composition used in the present invention may be 0.2% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and even more preferably 0.8% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (bl) cationic polyamino acid(s) in the second composition used in the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, and even more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (bl) cationic polyamino acid(s) in the second composition used in the present invention may be from 0.2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.8% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the second composition used in the present invention may further comprise (b2) at least one hydroxy acid or salt thereof. If two or more hydroxy acids or salts thereof are used, they may be the same or different.
  • the (b2) hydroxy acid may comprise at least one mono- or polycarboxylic acid comprising at least one hydroxyl functional group.
  • the (b2) hydroxy acid may be chosen from a- and 0- hydroxy acids.
  • the (b2) hydroxy acid may be an a-hydroxy acid.
  • the a and 0 positions reflect the fact that at least one of the hydroxyl functions occupies an a or 0 position relative to at least one of the carboxyl functions of the acid, i.e., it is attached, respectively, either to the carbon bearing the hydroxyl function or to the carbon adjacent to the one bearing the carboxyl function.
  • the acid may be present in a form chosen from free acids, associated salts thereof (such as salts with organic bases and alkali metals), for example, depending on the final pH given to the second composition, and optionally the corresponding lactides (i.e., the form obtained by self-esterification of the molecules).
  • the second composition used in the present invention may further comprise at least one a- hydroxy acid (AHA) or salt thereof as the (b2) hydroxy acid or salt thereof. If two or more a-hydroxy acids or salts thereof are used, they may be the same or different.
  • AHA a- hydroxy acid
  • a-hydroxy acid here means a carboxylic acid which has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.
  • the a-hydroxy acid may be represented by the following chemical formula: (Ra)(Rb)C(OH)COOH where
  • Ra and Rb are H, F, Cl, Br, I, alkyl, aralkyl or aryl group of saturated or unsaturated, isomeric or non-isomeric, straight or branched chain or cyclic form, having 1 to 25 carbon atoms, and in addition Ra and Rb may carry OH, CHO, COOH and an alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms.
  • the hydrogen atom attached to the carbon atom may be substituted by F, Cl, Br, I, or a lower alkyl, aralkyl, aryl or alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms.
  • the alpha hydroxy acids may be present as a free acid or lactone form, or in a partial salt form with an organic base or an inorganic alkali.
  • the alpha hydroxy acids may exist as stereoisomers such as D, L, DL and meso forms.
  • R a and Rb are alkyl, they independently can be within any of the groups of C1-C5, Ce- C10, C11-C15, C16-C20, C21-C25 and C26-C29.
  • Compounds within the above chemical formula thus include all of the possible combinations of Ra and Rb. Included within the foregoing is a subgenus of compounds having R a and Rb independently selected from C1-C12.
  • Typical alkyl, aralkyl, aryl and alkoxyl groups for R a and Rb include methyl, ethyl, propyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, pentyl, octyl, lauryl, stearyl, benzyl, phenyl, methoxyl, and ethoxyl.
  • the alpha hydroxy acids of the first group may be subdivided into
  • Alkyl Alpha Hydroxy Acids 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (glycolic acid), 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (lactic acid), 2-methyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (methyllactic acid), 2 -hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2- hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2- hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2- hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid (alpha hydroxyarachidonic acid), 2-hydroxytetraeicosanoic acid (cerebronic acid), 2- hydroxytetraeicosenoic acid (alpha hydroxynervonic acid) and 2,4-dihydroxy-3,3- dimethylbutanoic acid (pantoic acid)
  • Miscellaneous Alpha Hydroxy Acids glyceruronic acid, erythruronic acid, threuronic acid; 2,3,4-trihydroxypentanuronic acids (isomers; riburonic acid, arabinuronic acid, xyluronic acid, lyxuronic acid); 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxyhexanuronic acid (isomers; alluronic acid, altruronic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, guluronic acid, iduronic acid, galacturonic acid, taluronic acid); 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyheptanuronic acid (isomers; alloheptanuronic acid, altroheptanuronic acid, glucoheptanuronic acid, mannoheptanuronic acid, guloheptanuronic acid, idoheptanuronic acid, galactoheptanuronic acid, taloheptanuronic acid).
  • the a-hydroxy acid may be selected from, for example, the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid, mucic acid and a mixture thereof.
  • the second composition used in the present invention may further comprise at least one p- hydroxy acid (BHA) or salt thereof, as the (b2) hydroxy acid or salt thereof. If two or more -hydroxy acids or salts thereof are used, they may be the same or different.
  • BHA p- hydroxy acid
  • P-hydroxy acid or “BHA”, here means a carboxylic acid which has at least one hydroxyl group on the beta carbon atom.
  • salicylic acid and its derivatives, in particular its alkylated derivatives of formula (I) below or a salt of such a derivative:
  • R1 represents a hydroxyl radical or an ester of formula:
  • R4 is a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or an amine or thiol function optionally substituted with an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms,
  • R2 and R3 independently of one another, are in position 3, 4, 5 or 6 on the benzene ring and represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or the radical:
  • n and m independently of one another, are each an integer equal to 0 or 1 ; on the condition that R2 and R3 are not simultaneously hydrogen atoms;
  • R5 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear, branched or cyclized saturated aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or an unsaturated radical containing from 3 to 18 carbon atoms, bearing one to nine conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds, it being possible for the radicals to be substituted with at least one substituent chosen from halogen atoms (fluorine, chlorine, bromine or iodine), trifluoromethyl radicals, hydroxyl in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or carboxyl in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • halogen atoms fluorine, chlorine, bromine or iodine
  • the salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is preferably such that R1 represents a hydroxyl radical, R2 represents a hydrogen atom, R3 is in position 5 of the benzene ring and represents a radical -CO-R5 in which R5 represents a saturated aliphatic radical containing from 3 to 15 carbon atoms.
  • the salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is chosen from 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n- dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n- heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3 -tert-butyl-5 -methylsalicylic acid, 3-tert- butyl-6-methylsalicylic acid, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5- octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-propanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-hexadecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n- oleoylsalicylic acid, 5-benzoylsalicylic acid
  • the (b2) hydroxy acid have two or more carboxylic groups, and more preferably two or three carboxylic groups.
  • the (b2) hydroxy acid have one or more hydroxyl groups, and more preferably one or two hydroxyl groups.
  • the (b2) hydroxy acid be selected from a-hydroxy acid.
  • the (b2) hydroxy acid be selected from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid, and a mixture thereof.
  • the (b2) hydroxy acid be selected from the group consisting of citric acid, tartaric acid, and a mixture thereof.
  • the citric acid or its salts may be derived from natural sources including but not limiting to Amanatsu, Balady citron, Bergamot orange, bitter orange, blood orange, buddha’s hand, calamondin, Cam sanh, chinotto, citrange, citron, citrumelo, clementine, Corsican citron, desert lime, Etrog, finger lime, Florentine citron, grapefruit, greek citron, haruka, hassaku, hyuganatsu, first lady, Jabara, kabosu, kaffir lime, kanpei, kawachi bankan, key lime, kinkoji unshiu, kinnow, Kiyomi, kobayashi mikan, koji orange, kuchinotsu No.37, Kumquat, lemon, lime, lumia, mandarin orange, Mangshanyegan, meyer lemon,ixie citron, Myrtleleaved orange tree
  • the tartaric acid or its salts may be derived from natural sources including but not limiting to grape, apricot, apple, banana, avocado and tamarind.
  • the (b2) hydroxy acid(s) or salt(s) thereof may be present in the second composition used in the present invention in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b2) hydroxy acid(s) or salt(s) thereof may be present in the second composition used in the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b2) hydroxy acid(s) or salt(s) thereof may be present in the second composition used in the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the second composition used in the present invention may further comprise (b3) water.
  • the amount of the (b3) water may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 55% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
  • the amount of the (b3) water may be 80% by weight or less, preferably 75% by weight or less, and more preferably 70% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
  • the amount of the (b3) water may be from 50% to 80% by weight, preferably from 55% to 75% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
  • the second composition used in the present invention may have a pH of less than 7, preferably less than 6, and more preferably less than 5.
  • the pH of the second composition used in the present invention may be adjusted to be, for example, from 3 to less than 7, preferably from 3 to less than 6, and more preferably from 3 to less than 5, such as 4 ⁇ 0.5.
  • the pH of the second composition used in the present invention can be determined by measuring the pH of the aqueous phase of the composition.
  • the second composition used in the present invention be acidic.
  • the pH of the second composition used in the present invention may be controlled by adding at least one pH adjuster to the composition.
  • the pH adjuster may be selected from organic or inorganic bases and organic or inorganic acids, as well as salts thereof.
  • organic base examples include primary, secondary and tertiary (poly) amines, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine and 1,3- propanediamine.
  • examples of the inorganic base include ammonia, ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and sodium carbonate.
  • organic acid examples include carboxylic acid such as citric acid and lactic acid.
  • Examples of the inorganic acid include hydrochloric acid, nitric acid, orthophosphoric acid and sulphonic acid.
  • Examples of the salt includes sodium phosphate and trisodium phosphate.
  • the pH adjuster(s) may be present in the second composition used in the present invention in an amount sufficient to adjust the pH of the composition to the desired value, for example, ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the second composition used in the present invention may further comprise (b4) at least one cationic surfactant. If two or more cationic surfactants are used, they may be the same or different.
  • the (b4) cationic surfactant used in the present invention is different from the (bl) cationic polyamino acid.
  • the cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty amine salt examples include, but are not limited to: those of general formula (V) below with a combination with acidifying agents:
  • R is a hydrocarbon radical containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • R can be linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted.
  • R is a linear or branched, acyclic alkyl or alkenyl group or an alkyl phenyl group;
  • R’ is a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, and
  • R is H or a hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms.
  • R may be linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted.
  • R is a linear or branched, acyclic alkyl or alkenyl group.
  • R is H or a methyl group.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include, but are not limited to: those of general formula (B3) below: wherein
  • Ri, R2, R3, and R4 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic radicals including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally including heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens.
  • the aliphatic radicals may be chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2- C6)alkyl, (Ci2-C22)alkylacetate, and hydroxyalkyl radicals; and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl; and
  • X' is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C2-C6) alkyl sulfates, and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates; quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (B4) below: wherein:
  • R5 is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow or of coconut;
  • Re is chosen from hydrogen, C1-C4 alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
  • R7 is chosen from C1-C4 alkyl radicals
  • R is chosen from hydrogen and C1-C4 alkyl radicals
  • X' is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates.
  • R5 and Re are, for example, a mixture of radicals chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R7 is methyl, and Rs is hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, Quatemium-27 (CTFA 1997) arid Quatemium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names "Rewoquat®" W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the company Witco;
  • R9 is chosen from aliphatic radicals including from 16 to 30 carbon atoms
  • Rio is chosen from hydrogen or alkyl radicals including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a -(CH2)3 (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N + X-. group;
  • R11, R12, R13, R14, Ri6a, Ri7a, and Risa which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • X‘ is chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates, and methyl sulfates.
  • diquatemary ammonium salt examples include FINQUAT CT-P of FINETEX (Quatemium-89) or FINQUAT CT (Quatemium-75); and quaternary ammonium salts including at least one ester function, such as those of formula
  • R22 is chosen from Ci-Ce alkyl radicals and Ci-Ce hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
  • R23 is chosen from: the radical below:
  • R 26 linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals R27, and hydrogen
  • R25 is chosen from: the radical below:
  • X is chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; with the proviso that the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0, R25 denotes R29.
  • R22 may be chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R22 is chosen from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R22 is chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 10.
  • R23 is hydrocarbon-based radical R27, it may be long and include from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and include from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R25 is hydrocarbon-based radical R29, it may include, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R24, R26, and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s, and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2.
  • the anion X' may be chosen from, for example, halides, such as chloride, bromide, and iodide; and C1-C4 alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate.
  • halides such as chloride, bromide, and iodide
  • C1-C4 alkyl sulfates such as methyl sulfate.
  • methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate and lactate, and any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium including an ester function are other non-limiting examples of anions that may be used according to the present invention.
  • the anion X' is chosen from chloride and methyl sulfate.
  • ammonium salts of formula (B6) may be used, wherein: R22 is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals, x and y are equal to 1 ; z is equal to 0 or 1 ; r, s, and t are equal to 2;
  • R23 is chosen from: the radical below: methyl, ethyl, and C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and hydrogen;
  • R25 is chosen from: the radical below: and hydrogen;
  • R24, R26, and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
  • the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
  • Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (B6) that may be mentioned include salts, for example chloride and methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl- methylammonium, of triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl- dimethyl-ammonium, and mixtures thereof.
  • the acyl radicals may include from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from a plant oil, for instance palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound includes several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
  • These products may be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or alkyldiisopropanolamine onto fatty acids or onto mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof.
  • This esterification may be followed by a quatemization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Cognis, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca, and "Rewoquat® WE 18" by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt.
  • the quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above that may be used in the second composition include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), for example tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical includes from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name "Ceraphyl® 70" by the company Van Dyk.
  • tetraalkylammonium chlorides for instance dialkyldimethylammonium and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical includes from about 12 to 22 carbon atom
  • the cationic surfactant that may be used in the second composition is chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Quatemium-80, Quatemium-83, Quatemium-87, Quatemium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
  • the amount of the (b4) cationic surfactant(s) may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
  • the amount of the (b4) cationic surfactant(s) may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
  • the amount of the (b4) cationic surfactant(s) may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
  • the second composition used in the present invention may further comprise (b5) at least one nonionic surfactant. If two or more nonionic surfactants are used, they may be the same or different.
  • nonionic surfactants are compounds well known in and of themselves (see, e.g., in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants” by M. R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178).
  • they can, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alphadiols, alkylphenols, and esters of fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated, or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to range from 1 to 30.
  • Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.
  • the nonionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated, or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants.
  • the oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxy ethylene units.
  • monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants examples include: monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated Cs- C30 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated Cs- C30 amides, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of monoalkyleneglycols or polyalkyleneglycols, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids, and of sorbitol, saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated plant oils, and condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide
  • the surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50, and more preferably between 1 and 20.
  • the monooxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants may be chosen from monooxyethylenated fatty alcohol (ether of ethyleneglycol and fatty alcohol), monooxyethylenated fatty ester (ester of ethyleneglycol and fatty acid), and mixtures thereof.
  • monooxyalkylenated fatty ester examples include glycol distearate.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (ether of polyethyleneglycol and fatty alcohol), polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (ester of polyethyleneglycol and fatty acid), and mixtures thereof.
  • polyoxyethylenated saturated fatty alcohol examples include the adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (Laureth-2 to Laureth-20, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Ceteareth-2 to Ceteareth-20, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Ceteth-2 to Ceteth-20, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to
  • polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohol or C8-C30 alcohols
  • examples of polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohol (or C8-C30 alcohols) include the adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (Oleth-2 to Oleth-20, as the CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.
  • monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants.
  • monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols are preferably used.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols correspond to the following formula:
  • lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
  • the alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohol may coexist in the form of a mixture.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols it is preferable to use a Cs/Cio alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, a C10/C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, and a C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 fatty esters may correspond to the following formula:
  • polyoxyethylenated fatty esters examples include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-2 to PEG-20 laurate (CTFA names: PEG-2 laurate to PEG-20 laurate); PEG-2 to PEG-20 palmitate (CTFA names: PEG-2 palmitate to PEG-20 palmitate); PEG-2 to PEG-20 stearate (CTFA names: PEG-2 stearate to PEG-20 stearate); PEG-2 to PEG-20 palmitostearate; PEG-2 to PEG-20 behenate (CTFA names: PEG-2 behenate to PEG-20 behenate); and mixtures thereof.
  • PEG-2 to PEG-20 palmitate CTFA names: PEG-2 palmitate to PEG-20 palmitate
  • the polyoxyethylenated fatty esters may also be selected from diesters of polyethyleneglycol and fatty acids, such as saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids, which may have one or more substituents such as a hydroxyl group and hydroxyl groups.
  • the fatty acids may be in the form of a polymer of fatty acids each of which has one or more hydroxyl groups.
  • Such a polymer may be formed by the esterification of the carboxyl group of one fatty acid having one or more hydroxyl groups and the hydroxyl group of another fatty acid having one or more hydroxyl groups. Examples of such a polymer include polyhydroxy stearate.
  • the polyoxyethylenated fatty ester mention may be made of PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate.
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from esters of polyols with fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such as glyceryl esters of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid or acids, and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sorbitol esters of a Cs- C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid or acids, and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sugar (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose,
  • glyceryl esters of fatty acids glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di-, and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof can be cited, and as polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, mono-, di-, or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono-, di-, or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol), preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and/or tristearate) such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and/or tristearate) and polyoxyethylenated glyceryl cocoate (mono-, di-, and/or tristearate)
  • surfactants such as for example the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG- 100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE), can also be used.
  • the sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof can be selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan sesquioleate and esters of fatty acids and alkoxylated sorbitan containing for example from 20 to 100 EO, such as for example sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), sold by the company ICI under the name Tween 65, polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85), or the compounds marketed under the trade names Tween 20 (polysorbate 20) or Tween 80 (polysorbate 80).
  • esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, methylglucoside fatty esters, the diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate), the mixed ester of methylglucoside and the mixture of oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate), the ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate), the ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl
  • ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methyl-glucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and that marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT, and mixtures thereof, can for example be cited.
  • sucrose esters saccharose palmito-stearate, saccharose stearate, and saccharose monolaurate can for example be cited.
  • alkylpolyglucosides can be used, and for example decylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product marketed under the name PLANTAREN 2000 by Henkel, and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic, caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF, laurylglucoside such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel, coco-glucoside such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818/UP by Henkel, cetostearyl glucoside possibly mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302
  • glycerides of alkoxylated plant oils such as mixtures of ethoxylated (200 EO) palm and copra (7 EO) glycerides can also be cited.
  • the nonionic surfactant may preferably contain alkenyl or a branched C12-C22 acyl chain such as an oleyl or isostearyl group. More preferably, the nonionic surfactant may be PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, in particular copolymers of the following formula:
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from silicone surfactants.
  • silicone surfactants Non-limiting mention may be made of those disclosed in documents US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.
  • the silicone surfactant may preferably be a compound of formula (I): in which:
  • A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
  • B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
  • the alkyl radical is a methyl radical
  • x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6
  • y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
  • silicone surfactants of formula (I) mention may be made of the compounds of formula (II):
  • silicone surfactants of formula (I) mention may also be made of the compounds of formula (III):
  • DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695, and Q4-3667 are compounds of formula (II) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2, and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10, and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3, and y is 12.
  • the compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) in which A is 15 and y is 13.
  • the amount of the (b5) nonionic surfactant(s) in the second composition used in the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b5) nonionic surfactant(s) in the second composition used in the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b5) nonionic surfactant(s) in the second composition used in the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the second composition used in the present invention may further comprise (b6) at least one compound selected from amino acids, derivatives thereof, and salts thereof (hereafter, this may be referred to as (b6) compound). If two or more (b6) compounds are used, they may be the same or different.
  • the (b6) compound is selected from amino acids.
  • the amino acid has at least one amino group and at least one carboxyl group.
  • the amino group may be a primary amino group, a secondary amino group or a tertiary amino group, preferably a primary amino group or a secondary amino group, and more preferably a secondary amino group.
  • the molecular weight of the amino acid be less than 1,000, more preferably less than 500, and even more preferably less than 200.
  • the amino acid not be a polymer.
  • the amino acid be a non-polymeric amino acid.
  • the amino acid may be selected from acidic amino acids, basic amino acids and neutral amino acids.
  • the acidic amino acids typically have one amino group and two carboxyl groups.
  • the basic amino acids typically have two amino groups and one carboxyl group. The number of amino group(s) and the number of carboxyl group(s) in the neutral amino groups are the same.
  • the amino acid may be in the D- or L-form.
  • the amino acid may be hydrophilic or hydrophobic.
  • a hydrophilic amino acid is preferable.
  • the amino acid may be selected from a-amino acids, P-amino acids, y-amino acids and 8- amino acids.
  • the amino acid be selected from an a-amino acid in which an amino group is bonded to the carbon atom to which a carboxyl group is bonded.
  • the a-amino acid may be selected from non-cyclic a-amino acids and cyclic a-amino acids.
  • the non-cyclic a-amino acid may be selected from the group consisting of alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
  • the cyclic a-amino acid may be selected from non-aromatic cyclic a-amino acids such as pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (pyroglutamic acid or pidolic acid). Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid can be formed by intramolecular condensation with the amino group and the carboxyl group of glutamic acid.
  • the (b6) compound is selected from the derivatives of amino acids.
  • the derivatives of amino acids may be selected from amino acids in which the hydrogen atom on the nitrogen atom of the amino group in the amino acids is substituted with at least one substituent.
  • the alkyl group may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group.
  • the alkyl group may be a linear or branched Ci-Ce alkyl group, preferably C1-C4 alkyl group, such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an i-propyl group and a butyl group.
  • the alkyl group may be a cyclic C3-C6 alkyl group, such as a cyclopentyl group and a cyclohexyl group.
  • the acyl group may be a Ci-Ce acyl group such as a formyl group and an acetyl group.
  • the alkenyl group may be a C2-C6 alkenyl group such as a vinyl group, an allyl group, a butylene group, a pentenyl group and a hexenyl group.
  • the alkoxy group may be a Ci-Ce alkoxy group such as a methoxy group, an ethoxy group and a propoxy group.
  • the alkoxycarbonyl group may be a Ci-Ce alkoxycarbonyl group such as a methoxycarbonyl group, an ethoxycarbonyl group, and a propoxycarbonyl group.
  • the above substituent may be further substituted with at least one group such as a halogen atom, an amino group, a nitro group, a cyano group, a hydroxyl group and an aromatic group such as a phenyl group.
  • the (b6) compound is selected from the salts of amino acids or the salts of amino acid derivatives.
  • the type of the salts of amino acids or the salts of amino acid derivatives is not limited.
  • the salts may be acid salts or basic salts.
  • acid salts mention may be made of, for example, inorganic acid salts such as hydrochloride, sulfates, nitrates, and phosphates, and organic acid salts such as citrates, oxalates, acetates, formats, maleates, and tartrates.
  • inorganic base salts such as sodium salt, potassium salt, calcium salt, magnesium salt, copper salt, zinc salt, aluminum salt and ammonium salts
  • organic base salts such as triethylammonium salts, triethanolammonium salts, pyridinium salts and diisopropyl ammonium salts.
  • Sodium salt is preferable.
  • the amount of the (b6) compound(s) in the second composition used in the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b6) compound(s) in the second composition used in the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b6) compound(s) in the second composition used in the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the second composition used in the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned components, optional components typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, anionic or amphoteric surfactants, oils, dyes, fillers, polyols such as glycols and glycerol, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, UV filters, natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables, preservatives, and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.
  • optional components typically employed in cosmetics specifically, anionic or amphoteric surfactants, oils, dyes, fillers, polyols such as glycols and glycerol, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, UV filters, natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables, preservatives, and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.
  • the second composition used in the present invention may comprise the above optional component(s) in an amount of from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the second composition used in the present invention include only a limited amount of silicone(s).
  • the amount of silicone(s) in the second composition used in the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is in particular preferable that the second composition used in the present invention include no silicone.
  • the second composition used in the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients in accordance with any of the processes which are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • the second composition used in the present invention can be in the form of a fluid, preferably a liquid or a paste, and more preferably a liquid.
  • the second composition can be used for treating, e.g., caring for or conditioning, keratin fibers.
  • the second composition can also be effective in improving combing and smoothness, even if keratin fibers are wet.
  • the second composition may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a rinse-off type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a rinse-off type hair cosmetic composition
  • the second composition may be used in hair care cosmetic products such as conditioners and the like. It is preferable that the second composition be in the form of a lotion.
  • the third composition used in the present invention comprises (cl) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof. If two or more esters of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or ester(s) thereof are used, they may be the same or different.
  • esters of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer or an ester thereof'
  • the term "or an ester thereof' means one of the derivatives of these esters and of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer obtained either by reaction of alcohol function(s) of the polyol, not engaged in bonds of ester type with acid functions of the diacid dimer, with one or more carboxylic functions of acid molecules other than the diacid dimer, or alternatively by reaction of acid function(s) of the diacid dimer, not engaged in bonds of ester type with alcohol functions of the polyol, with alcohol functions of alcohol molecules other than the polyol.
  • esters of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, which are suitable for use in the present invention may have a viscosity, measured at about 25°C of greater than or equal to about 1,500 mPa.s.
  • the viscosity of an ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, according to the present invention may be measured according to any process known to those skilled in the art, and for example according to the conventional process described hereinbelow.
  • the viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate or parallel plate viscometer of Ares type (TA-Instrument) operating in kinetic sweep mode over a shear range of about 1-1,000 s' 1 to induce a flow tension of about 1,000 Pa.
  • Ares type TA-Instrument
  • the cone/plate or parallel plates may consist of a material selected from the group consisting of stainless steel, acrylic resin or polyphenylene sulfide (PPS resin).
  • the cone/plate diameter may be 25 mm (cone angle 0.10 radians).
  • the measurement is performed at about 25°C.
  • the stability of the sample is checked by means of the dynamic sweep period test, which makes it possible to determine if the sample is stable per se.
  • the shear viscosity is determined using the ETA value in the plateau region according to the flow.
  • the dynamic sweep period is determined at a frequency of 1.0 Hz over a period of 600 seconds.
  • the measurements at constant sweep rate are performed with a rate ranging from 1.0 to 1,000 s' 1 and for example from 1.0 to 100 s’ 1 .
  • the viscosity of an ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, suitable for use in the present invention may range from about 1,500 mPa.s to about 150,000 mPa.s, or for example from about 2,000 mPa.s to about 150,000 mPa.s, or for example from about 15,000 mPa.s to about 100,000 mPa.s or for example from about 30,000 mPa.s to about 80,000 mPa.s.
  • a polyol that is suitable for use in the present invention may be a diol dimer.
  • esters of diol dimer and of fatty diacid dimer that may be used in the context of the present invention are commercially available or may be prepared in a conventional manner. They may be of plant origin and may be obtained by esterification of diacid dimers with diol dimers.
  • a polyol dicarboxylate In an esterification reaction with a diacid dimer, a polyol dicarboxylate is obtained, which may have a weight-average molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), ranging from 2,000 to 25,000 g/mol or for example between 2,000 and 4,000 g/mol.
  • GPC gel permeation chromatography
  • the fatty diacid dimers, or diacid dimers may be conventionally obtained by polymerization reaction, for example by intermolecular dimerization, of at least one unsaturated fatty acid.
  • They may contain at least two carboxylic acid groups.
  • carboxylic functions of the fatty diacid dimer not engaged in the ester bond with the polyol residue(s) may be engaged in other ester bonds with other alcohol functions of alcohol molecules other than the polyol(s).
  • These alcohol molecules or residues may be monoalcohols or polyols.
  • hydrocarbon-based compounds comprising a hydroxyl function and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, or for example from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, or for example from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, or for example from 16 to 28 carbon atoms, or for example from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • monoalcohols that are suitable for the present invention, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of butanol, pentanol, propanol, hexanol, heptanol, octanol, decanol, dodecanol, hexadecanol, octadecanol, eicosadecanol, phytosterol, isostearol, stearol, cetol, behenol, etc.
  • the fatty diacid dimers may be derived for example from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, for example of Cg to C34, or for example of C12 to C22, in particular of Ci6 to C20 and for example of Cis-
  • unsaturated fatty acids mention may be made for example of undecenoic acid, linderic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidinic acid, gadolenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid and arachidonic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • it may be the diacid dimer from which the diol dimer to be esterified may also be derived. It may be its hydrogenated form.
  • the hydrogenated form of the diacid dimer may be partial or total, and may correspond, for example, to the saturated form, which is more stable towards oxidation.
  • it may be the diacid dimer derived from the dimerization of linoleic acid.
  • the diacid dimer may be a commercial product consisting of a dicarboxylic acid containing about 36 carbon atoms. This product may also contain a trimeric acid and a monomeric acid, in proportions that depend on the degree of purity of the product.
  • Diacid dimers and for example dilinoleic diacids whose stability towards oxidation has been improved by hydrogenation of the double bonds remaining after the dimerization reaction, may also be found commercially.
  • any diacid dimer that is currently commercially available may be used.
  • the average degree of esterification and the average molecular weight of the ester obtained may be adjusted by varying the ratio of the diol dimer to the diacid dimer.
  • polyol is intended to denote any hydrocarbon-based compound comprising at least two hydroxyl functions and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, or for example from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, or for example from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, or for example from 16 to 28 carbon atoms and for example from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the hydrocarbon-based chains may be interrupted, where appropriate, by the presence of at least one heteroatom, and for example an oxygen atom.
  • a polyol or a polyol ester that is suitable for use in the present invention may comprise, for example, from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, or for example from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, or for example from 4 to 6 hydroxyl functions.
  • the hydroxyl functions other than those already employed in an ester bond with the diacid dimer, may also be employed, wholly or partly in other ester bonds via reaction with acid molecules other than the diacid dimer.
  • the polyol or an ester thereof that is suitable for use in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of linear, branched, cyclic or polycyclic, saturated or unsaturated alcohols.
  • the polyol may be selected, for example, from the group consisting of a diol, a triol, a tetraol, or a pentaol, or an ester thereof.
  • the polyol may be a diol, or an ester thereof, selected for example from the group consisting of a fatty alcohol dimer, a monoglycerol or polyglycerol, a C2-C4 monoalkylene or polyalkylene glycol, 1 ,4-butanediol and pentaerythritol.
  • diols that are also suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made, in a non-exhaustive manner, of butanediol, pentanediol, propanediol, hexanediol, hexylene glycol, heptanediol, octanediol, nonanediol, decanediol, 1 -decanediol, dodecanediol, tridecanediol, tetradecanediol, pentadecanediol, hexadecanediol, nonadecanediol, octadecanediol, cyclohexanediol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, ethylene glycol and xylene
  • diol dimers As an example of diols that are suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made of diol dimers.
  • diol dimer is intended to mean saturated diols derived from the hydrogenation of the corresponding diacid dimers, a diacid dimer being as defined above, and for example a diacid dimer of at least one unsaturated fatty acid.
  • the industrially manufactured diol dimer also generally contains other components, for example a triol trimer, a monoalcohol and compounds of ether type, according to the degree of purification of the acid dimer and/or of the lower alcohol ester thereof, used as starting material.
  • a triol trimer for example a triol trimer, a monoalcohol and compounds of ether type, according to the degree of purification of the acid dimer and/or of the lower alcohol ester thereof, used as starting material.
  • products whose diol dimer content is greater than 70% may be used in the present invention.
  • a diol dimer of high purity such as a compound whose diol dimer content is greater than 90%.
  • a diol dimer may be produced by hydrogenation, for example catalytic hydrogenation, of a diacid dimer, which is itself obtained by dimerization of at least one unsaturated fatty acid.
  • a suitable fatty acid may be such as those mentioned previously, and for example of Cg to C34, or for example of C12 to C22, or for example of Ci6 to C20 and more particularly of Cis.
  • the diol dimer may be derived from the hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid.
  • a diol dimer may be, for example, dilinoleol.
  • the diol dimer may generally be in a saturated form.
  • diol dimer that is suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made for example of diglycerol.
  • This compound is a glycerol dimer resulting from the condensation of two molecules of glycerol, with the loss of a water molecule.
  • diglycerol denotes any isomer combination that can result from such a condensation, for instance linear isomers, branched isomers and, where appropriate, cyclic isomers resulting from an intramolecular dehydration of a diglycerol molecule.
  • the diglycerol may be obtained via any process known to those skilled in the art and especially those described in patent EP 0 750 848.
  • acid molecules that can interact with one or more hydroxyl functions of the polyol, not engaged in the ester bond with the diacid dimer, mention may be made, in a nonlimiting manner, of molecules derived from isostearic acid, behenic acid, phytostearic acid, stearic acid or cetylic acid.
  • An ester that is suitable for use in the present invention may be obtained by reacting a polyol or an ester thereof with a diacid dimer, and for example a dimerdilinoleic acid, in a molar ratio of about 1.0:0.2-! .
  • An ester that may be suitable for use in the present invention may be obtained by reacting a dimerdilinoleic acid with a dilinoleol and, where appropriate, at least one additional monoalcohol selected for example from the group consisting of behenol, isostearol, phytosterol, stearol and cetol, and mixtures thereof.
  • an ester used in the context of the present invention may be used in the form of a mixture of various esters, for example.
  • An ester that is suitable for use in the present invention may be obtained, for example, by reacting a glycerol, an isostearic acid and a dimerdilinoleic acid, for example in a molar ratio of 1.0:0.2-1.0:0.5-0.9.
  • esters of dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s), or an ester thereof, suitable for the present invention mention may be made of the esters described in patent applications JP- A-2003-226609, JP-A-2004-256515 and JP-A-2005- 179377.
  • An ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, suitable for use in the present invention may have a molecular weight ranging from about 2,000 to about 25,000 g/mol, for example from about 4,000 to about 20,000 g/mol, for example from about 5,000 to about 20,000 g/mol, for example from about 7,000 to about 15,000 g/mol and for example from about 8,000 to about 10,000 g/mol.
  • an ester in accordance with the present invention may comprise an alternating sequence of diacid dimer residue(s) and of residue(s) related to the said polyol(s), and for example to the said diol(s), the said polyols or diols being, for example, as defined above.
  • each of the two ends of the said sequence may bear, respectively, a unit OR' and OR" with R' and R" representing, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or' and OR" representing, independently of each other, a C2 to C36, for example Cs to C24, for example C12 to C20 and for example Ci6 to Cis hydrocarbon based monoalcohol residue.
  • R' and R" may both represent a hydrogen atom.
  • OR' and OR" may both represent an identical or different hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue.
  • hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residues OR' and OR" that may be suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of fatty alcohol residues.
  • esters of general formula (I), (II) or (IV) described below may be selected from the group consisting of esters of general formula (I), (II) or (IV) described below, or a mixture thereof.
  • an ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, that may be suitable for use in the present invention may have the general formula (I) below:
  • CORiCO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue
  • OR2O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue
  • OR3 represents a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue
  • n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, for example from 2 to 10 or for example from 5 to 7.
  • CORiCO may represent a dimerdilinoleate residue.
  • OR2O may represent a dimerdilinoleyl residue.
  • OR3 may represent a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue selected, for example, from the group consisting of behenyl, isostearyl and phytosteryl residues, and mixtures thereof.
  • ester of dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, that may be suitable for use in the present invention may for example have the general formula (II) below: in which: n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, for example from 2 to 10 and in particular from 5 to 7, COR'iCO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,
  • O 2O represents a diglyceryl residue of general formula (III) below: in which:
  • R'3 represents H or OR'3 represents a fatty acid residue.
  • COR'iCO may represent a dimerdilinoleate residue.
  • the fatty acid residue featured by OR'3 may be an isostearyl residue.
  • an ester of dimerdilinoleic acid and of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, which may be suitable for use in the present invention may be of formula (IV) below:
  • ORr O represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of a dimerdilinoleic acid
  • COR2"CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue
  • h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9, for example from 2 to 8 and for example from 4 to 6.
  • COR2''CO may represent a dimerdilinoleate residue.
  • esters having the following INCI nomenclature: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate dimerdilinoleate copolymer, bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate and mixtures thereof.
  • Such compounds may be obtained, for example, under the reference Hailuscent ISDA (Kokyu Alcohol) and Plandool-G, Plandool-G7, Lusplan DD-DA5, Lusplan DD-DA7, PHY/IS-DA and Lusplan DD-DAS (Nippon Fine Chemical Company Ltd).
  • Lusplan DD-DA5 and Lusplan DD-DA7 are described in patent application FR 03/02809.
  • the amount of the (cl) ester(s) of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or ester(s) thereof, in the third composition used in the present invention is 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (cl) ester(s) of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or ester(s) thereof, in the third composition used in the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, and even more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (cl) ester(s) of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or ester(s) thereof, in the third composition used in the present invention may range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the third composition used in the present invention may further comprise (c2) at least one cationic surfactant. Two or more types of cationic surfactants may be used in combination.
  • the (c2) cationic surfactants that may be used in the third composition include, quaternary ammonium and diammonium salts, for example, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltimethylammonium chloride (such as, for example, the products sold under the trade name Dehyquart A by Cognis, or Quartamin 60 W25 by Kao, or Genamin CTAC 25 by Clariant), behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (such as the products sold for example by Clariant under the trade name Genamin KDMP or Genamin BTLF, or by Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Varisoft BT 85), behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride, behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (such as the product sold by Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131) stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myr
  • the (c2) cationic surfactant is selected from behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium methosulfate, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, iso stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, wheat germamidopropyl dimethylamine, sunflowerseedamidopropyl dimethylamine, almondamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, babassuamidopropy
  • the amount of the (c2) cationic surfactant in the third composition used in the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (c2) cationic surfactant in the third composition used in the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (c2) cationic surfactant in the third composition used in the present invention may range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the third composition used in the present invention may further comprise (c3) at least one aminosilicone. Two or more types of aminosilicones may be used in combination.
  • the amount of the (c3) aminosilicone in the third composition used in the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (c3) aminosilicone in the third composition used in the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (c3) aminosilicone in the third composition used in the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the third composition used in the present invention may further comprise (c4) water.
  • the amount of the (c4) water may be 65% by weight or more, preferably 70% by weight or more, and more preferably 75% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the third composition.
  • the amount of the (c4) water may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the third composition.
  • the amount of the (c4) water may be from 65% to 95% by weight, preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 75% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the third composition.
  • the third composition used in the present invention may further comprise (c5) at least one fatty alcohol. Two or more types of fatty alcohols may be used in combination.
  • fatty here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms.
  • alcohols which have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more types of fatty alcohols may be used in combination.
  • the fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is chosen from C12-C24 alkyl and C12-C24 alkenyl groups. R may be or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
  • Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.
  • the fatty alcohol used in the third composition is chosen from cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.
  • the amount of the (c5) fatty alcohol in the third composition used in the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (c5) fatty alcohol in the third composition used in the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (c5) fatty alcohol in the third composition used in the present invention may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the third composition used in the present invention may further comprise, in addition to the aforementioned essential/optional components, further optional components typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants, oils, dyes, fillers, polyols such as glycols and glycerol, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, UV filters, natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables, preservatives, and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.
  • cosmetics specifically, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants, oils, dyes, fillers, polyols such as glycols and glycerol, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, UV filters, natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables, preservatives, and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.
  • the third composition according to the present invention may comprise the above further optional component(s) in an amount of from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the third composition used in the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients in accordance with any of the processes which are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • the third composition used in the present invention can be in the form of a fluid, preferably a liquid or a paste, and more preferably a liquid. It is preferable that the third composition be in the form of an emulsion.
  • the third composition can be used for treating, e.g., caring for or conditioning, keratin fibers.
  • the third composition can also be effective in improving combing and smoothness.
  • the third composition can be useful to strengthen keratin fibers.
  • the third composition may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a rinse-off type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a rinse-off type hair cosmetic composition
  • the third composition may be used in hair care cosmetic products such as conditioners and the like. It is preferable that the third composition be in the form of a mask. ⁇ Fourth Composition ⁇
  • the fourth composition which may be used in the present invention comprises (dl) at least one aminosilicone. Two or more types of aminosilicones may be used in combination.
  • the (dl) aminosilicone may have a degree of polymerization of less than 2,000, preferably less than 1,500, and more preferably less than 1,000.
  • the degree of polymerization is the number of repeating units which form a polymer.
  • the degree of polymerization here represents an average value of degree of polymerization, preferably a number average value of degree of polymerization.
  • any aminosilicone compound in the field of cosmetics may be used.
  • aminosilicone here means a silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group or at least one quaternary ammonium group.
  • G independently designates a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH, or a Ci-Cs alkyl group, for example methyl, or a Ci-Cg alkoxy group, for example methoxy, a and a' independently denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0; b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1; m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges, for example, from 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to less than 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number, for example, from 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
  • R' independently denotes a monovalent group having formula -CqlhqL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:
  • R" independently denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbonbased group, for example a C1-C20 alkyl group;
  • Q denotes a linear or branched C r H2r group, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4;
  • A" represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
  • a group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone” having formula (C): in which n and m have the meanings given above in formula B.
  • Ri, R2, and R3 independently represent a hydroxy or a C1-C4 alkoxy group, wherein at least one of the groups Ri to R3 denotes an alkoxy group.
  • the alkoxy group is preferably a methoxy group.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly equals 0.3:1.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.
  • p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1 ,000, particularly from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; it being possible for p to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and for q to denote a number from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;
  • Ri and R.2 independently represent a hydroxy or C1-C4 alkoxy group, where at least one of the groups Ri or R2 denotes an alkoxy group.
  • the alkoxy group is preferably a methoxy group.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges generally from 1 :0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1 : 1 and more particularly equals 1 :0.95.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2,000 to 200,000, more particularly 5,000 to 100,000 and even more particularly from 10,000 to 50,000.
  • silicones having structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other aminosilicones whose structure is different from formula (D) or (E).
  • a product containing aminosilicone having structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name BELSILADM 652.
  • a product containing aminosilicone having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name FLUID WR 1300®.
  • n and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from, for example, 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to less than 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number, for example, from 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
  • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably linear.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones ranges preferably from 2,000 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.
  • a preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone sold under the trade name XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Coming.
  • G Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (G): in which: m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges, for example, from 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to less than 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number, for example, from 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
  • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably branched.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones ranges preferably from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.
  • a silicone having this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid by Dow Coming.
  • R5 independently represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl group, for example methyl;
  • Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, in particular a Ci-Cis alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkyleneoxy group linked to Si via an SiC bond;
  • Q’ is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate); r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
  • R7 independently represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl group, a C2-C18 alkenyl group or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
  • Re independently represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, in particular aCi- Cis alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkyleneoxy group linked to the Si via a SiC bond;
  • Rs independently represents a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl group, a C2-C18 alkenyl group or a -R6-NHCOR7 group;
  • X' is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate); r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100;
  • Ri, R2, R3 and R4 independently denote a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group
  • Rs denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxy group
  • m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g
  • Multiblock polyoxyalkylenated aminosilicones of type (AB) n , A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.
  • Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units having the following general formula:
  • a is an integer greater than or equal to 1 , preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
  • b is an integer comprised between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly between from 5 and 30;
  • x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more particularly from 10 to 5,000;
  • R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R independently represents a divalent linear or branched C 2 -Ci 2 hydrocarbon-based group, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R independently denotes an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group, or a -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH(OH)CH 2 - group; preferentially R independently denotes a -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH(OH)CH 2 - group;
  • R 1 independently represent a divalent linear or branched C 2 -Ci 2 hydrocarbon-based group, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R’ denotes an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group, or a -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH(OH)CH 2 - group; preferentially R’ denotes -CH(CH3)-CH 2 -.
  • the siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.
  • the amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.
  • R, R' and R" independently represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxy group
  • A represents a C3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the sum of m+n is, preferably less than 2,000, more preferably less than 1,500, and even more preferably less than 1,000 approximately; in which: x and y are numbers such that the sum of x and y ranges from, for example, 1 to less than 2,000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to less than 1,500 and especially from 100 to 1,000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100; .
  • R1 and R2 are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms;
  • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
  • A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched.
  • R1 and R2 are independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
  • the silicone is of formula (K) with: x ranging from, for example, 10 to 2,000 and especially from 100 to 1,000; y ranging from 1 to 100;
  • A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms and especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly A is chosen from the following divalent groups: CH2CH2CH2 and - CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 -; and
  • R1 and R2 being independently linear, saturated alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
  • a preferred silicone of formula (K) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone.
  • aminosilicones of the present disclosure may also be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the chain end or on side chains, for example aminopropyl end or side groups, for instance those of formula (A), (B), or (C):
  • n is preferably less than 2,000, more preferably less than 1,500, and even more preferably less than 1,000.
  • aminosilicone (A) mention may be made of those sold under the names DMS-A11, DMS-A12, DMS-A15, DMS-A21, DMS-A31, DMS-A32 and DMS-A35 by the company Gelest.
  • the sum of n and m is such that it is preferably less than 2,000, more preferably less than 1,500, and even more preferably less than 1,000.
  • silicone (B) mention may be made of those sold under the names AMS- 132, AMS- 152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin Etsu.
  • n is preferably less than 2,000, more preferably less than 1,500, and even more preferably less than 1,000.
  • silicone (C) mention may be made of those sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.
  • the (dl) aminosilicone used for the present invention is amodimethicone.
  • the (dl) aminosilicone is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone.
  • the (dl) aminosilicone is aminopropyl dimethicone.
  • Aminosilicones suitable for use according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic, linear, and branched aminosilicones having a viscosity ranging from 5 * 10’ 6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25°C, for example, from l *10‘ 5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • the amount of the (dl) aminosilicone in the fourth composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (dl) aminosilicone in the fourth composition may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (dl) aminosilicone in the fourth composition may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fourth composition which may be used in the present invention may further comprise (d2) at least one silicone other than the (dl) aminosilicone.
  • a single type of silicone may be used, or two or more different types of silicones may be used in combination.
  • the (d2) silicone be selected from silicone oils.
  • silicone oil means a silicone compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • silicone oils those generally used in cosmetics may be used alone or in combination thereof.
  • Silicones or organopolysiloxanes are defined, for instance, by Walter NOLL in “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the silicone oil(s) may be selected from volatile silicones, non-volatile silicones and mixtures thereof.
  • the silicone oil may comprise either at least one volatile silicone oil or at least one nonvolatile silicone oil, or both at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile ui/jr £ U 4 i / ows silicone oil.
  • the volatile or non-volatile silicone may be selected from linear, branched, or cyclic silicones, optionally modified with at least one organo-functional moiety or group.
  • the silicone oil may be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyltrimethicone, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organo-modified polysiloxanes comprising at least one organo-functional moiety or group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) moieties or groups, alkoxy or alkoxyalkyl moieties or groups, hydroxyl or hydroxylated moieties or groups, acyloxy or acyloxyalkyl moieties or groups, carboxylic acid or carboxylate moieties or groups, acrylic moieties or groups, and oxazoline moieties.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyltrimethicone
  • polydiarylsiloxanes polydiarylsiloxanes
  • the silicone oil(s) is/are volatile, the silicone oil(s) may be chosen from those having a boiling point ranging from 60°C to 260°C, for example:
  • cyclic silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 atoms, for instance, from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • siloxanes include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane marketed, for instance, under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, KF-995 by SHIN ETSU, as well as mixtures thereof.
  • Cyclomethicones may also be used, for example, those marketed under the references DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345, and DC 246 by DOW CORNING. Cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type may also be used, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula ” ' r ' wherein:
  • Combinations of cyclic silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes with silicon derived organic compounds may also be used, such as an octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) mixture, and an octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane mixture; and
  • linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 9 silicon atoms.
  • a nonlimiting example of such a compound is decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed, for instance, under the trade name "SH-200" by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones belonging to this class are also described, for example, in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32— TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics”.
  • the silicone oil(s) may be chosen from cyclic silicones.
  • the silicone oil(s) may be chosen from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organo-modified polysiloxanes as explained above.
  • the molecular weight of the (d2) silicone preferably polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, has a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of 300,000 or more, preferably 350,000 or more, more preferably 400,000 or more, and preferably 3,000,000 or less, more preferably 2,000,000 or less, even more preferably L000,000 or less.
  • Mw weight-average molecular weight
  • the (d2) silicone preferably silicone oil
  • the (d2) silicones that are preferred in accordance with the present invention may be the polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, such as the oils having a viscosity at 25°C greater than 1,000,000 cSt (mm 2 /s), more preferentially a viscosity greater than 2,000,000 cSt, and even more particularly greater than 5,000,000 cSt, better still greater than 10,000,000 cSt and preferably less than 50,000,000 cSt, better still less than 30,000,000 cSt, even better still less than 15,000,000 cSt.
  • the oils having a viscosity at 25°C greater than 1,000,000 cSt (mm 2 /s) more preferentially a viscosity greater than 2,000,000 cSt, and even more particularly greater than 5,000,000 cSt, better still greater than 10,000,000 cSt and preferably less than 50,000,000 cSt, better still less than 30,000,000 cSt, even better still less than 15,000,000 cSt.
  • all the polydimethylsiloxanes can be used as they are or in the form of solutions, emulsions, nanoemulsions or microemulsions.
  • Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to such polydialkylsiloxanes include BY22-029 (product of Dow Coming Toray, Co., Ltd.; nonionic emulsion of dimethicone oil), BY22-060 (product of Dow Coming Toray, Co., Ltd.; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), BY22-019 (product of Dow Coming Toray, Co., Ltd.; nonionic and cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with cyclic silicone), BY22-020 (product of Dow Coming Toray, Co., Ltd.; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting a highly polymerized dimethicone with light liquid isoparaffin), KM902 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.; nonionic emulsion of highly polymerized dime
  • Polyalkylarylsiloxanes may be chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenyl siloxanes.
  • Non-limiting examples of such polyalkylarylsiloxanes include the products marketed under the following trade names:
  • SILBIONE® fluids of the 70 641 series from RHODIA SILBIONE® fluids of the 70 641 series from RHODIA
  • RHODORSIL® fluids of the 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA phenyltrimethicone fluid marketed under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by DOW CORNING;
  • PK series silicones from BAYER for example, the PK20 product
  • PN PH series silicones from BAYER, for example, the PN1000 and PHI 000 products; and some SF series fluids from GENERAL ELECTRIC, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.
  • Organo-modified silicones which may be used according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, silicones such as those previously defined and comprising within their structure at least one organo-functional moiety or group linked directly or by means of a hydrocarbon group.
  • Organo-modified silicones may include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy moieties optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl moieties, such as products called dimethicone copolyols marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name DC 1248 and under the trade names DC Q2-5220 and SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, and L 711 fluids marketed by UNION CARBIDE and (Ci2)alkyl-methicone copolyol marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name Q2 5200; alkoxylated moieties, such as the product marketed under the trade names "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434, and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT; hydroxylated moieties, such as hydroxyalkyl function-containing polyorganosiloxanes described, for instance, in French
  • acyloxyalkyl moieties for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,957,732; anionic moieties of the carboxylic acid type, for example, the products described in European Patent No.
  • Polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups may also be used, for example, those sold under the trade name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as fluids of the 48 series marketed by RHODIA.
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • the silicone oil(s) may be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes and organo-modified polydimethylsiloxanes.
  • the silicone oil be selected from volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, that are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy, or phenyl groups that are pendent and/or at the end(s) of the silicone chain, which groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl siloxysi
  • Non-limiting examples of such combinations include a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol, marketed, for instance, under the trade name Xiameter PMX-1501 Fluid by Dow Coming.
  • the degree of polymerization of the (d2) silicone be less than 2,000, more preferably less than 1 ,500, and even more preferably less than 1 ,000.
  • the amount of the (d2) silicone in the fourth composition may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (d2) silicone in the fourth composition may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (d2) silicone in the fourth composition may range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of the (dl) aminosilicone/the (d2) silicone may be from 0.01 to 5, preferably from 0.1 to 1, and more preferably from 0.2 to 0.5.
  • the fourth composition may further comprise (d3) water.
  • the amount of the (d3) water in the fourth composition may be 65% by weight or more, preferably 70% by weight or more, and more preferably 75% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition.
  • the amount of the (d3) water in the fourth composition may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition.
  • the amount of the (d3) water in the fourth composition may be from 65% to 95% by weight, preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 75% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition.
  • the fourth composition may further comprise, in addition to the aforementioned essential/optional components, further optional components typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, nonionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants, cationic polymers, oils such as ester oils, dyes, fillers, polyols such as glycols and glycerol, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, UV filters, natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables, preservatives, and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.
  • further optional components typically employed in cosmetics specifically, nonionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants, cationic polymers, oils such as ester oils, dyes, fillers, polyols such as glycols and glycerol, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, UV filters, natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables, preservatives, and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.
  • the fourth composition may comprise the above further optional component(s) in an amount of from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fourth composition can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients in accordance with any of the processes which are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • the fourth composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a fluid, preferably a liquid or a paste, and more preferably a liquid. It is preferable that the fourth composition be in the form of an emulsion.
  • the fourth composition can be used for treating, e.g., caring for or conditioning, keratin fibers.
  • the fourth composition can also be effective in improving combing and smoothness.
  • the fourth composition can be useful to provide long lasting cosmetic effects, even after several shampooing.
  • the fourth composition may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a rinse-off type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a rinse-off type hair cosmetic composition.
  • the fourth composition may be used in hair care cosmetic products such as conditioners and the like. It is preferable that the fourth composition be in the form of a cream.
  • the fifth composition which may be used in the present invention comprises (el) at least one aminosilicone. Two or more types of aminosilicones may be used in combination.
  • the fifth composition which may be used in the present invention may further comprise (e2) at least one silicone other than the (el) aminosilicone.
  • e2 at least one silicone other than the (el) aminosilicone.
  • a single type of silicone may be used, or two or more different types of silicones may be used in combination.
  • the fifth composition which may be used in the present invention may further comprise water as well as other optional components.
  • the explanations regarding water and the other optional components in the fourth composition described above can apply to those in the fifth composition according to the present invention.
  • the fifth composition can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients in accordance with any of the processes which are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • the fifth composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a fluid, preferably a liquid or a paste, and more preferably a liquid. It is preferable that the fifth composition be in the form of an emulsion.
  • the fifth composition can be used for treating, e.g., caring for or conditioning, keratin fibers.
  • the fifth composition can also be effective in improving combing, smoothness and manageability of keratin fibers.
  • the fifth composition may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a rinse-off type or leave-on cosmetic composition, and more preferably a rinse-off type or leave-on type hair cosmetic composition.
  • the fifth composition may be used in hair care cosmetic products such as conditioners and the like. It is preferable that the fifth composition be in the form of a cream.
  • keratin fibers such as hair are treated by the first, second and third compositions sequentially or simultaneously.
  • the process for treating keratin fibers, such as hair comprises the following steps (1), (2) and (3) in this sequence:
  • step (2) (1) and step (2), and/or between step (2) and step (3) and/or after step (3).
  • the process according to the present invention is not a permanent reshaping process such as a permanent waving or straightening process for keratin fibers.
  • the keratin fibers to which each of the first, second and third compositions has been applied can be left for an appropriate time which is required to treat the keratin fibers.
  • the time length for each treatment is not limited, but it may be from 1 to 10 minutes, preferably from 1 to 5 minutes, and more preferably from 1 to 3 minutes.
  • the total time for the process according to the present invention may be from 3 to 30 minutes, preferably from 3 to 15 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 10 minutes.
  • the keratin fibers may be treated at room temperature.
  • the keratin fibers can be heated at 25°C to 65°C, preferably 30°C to 60°C, more preferably 35°C to 55°C, and even more preferably 40°C to 50°C, before and/or during and/or after the step of applying each of the first, second and third compositions onto the keratin fibers.
  • the process according to the present invention can also comprise the step of:
  • Step (4) can be performed after step (3).
  • a step of rinsing and/or a step of drying can be performed before step (3) and/or between step (3) and step (4) and/or after step (4).
  • the keratin fibers to which the fourth composition has been applied can be left for an appropriate time which is required to treat the keratin fibers.
  • the time length for each treatment is not limited, but it may be from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 1 to 10 minutes, and more preferably from 1 to 5 minutes.
  • the total time for the process according to the present invention may be from 3 to 45 minutes, preferably from 3 to 30 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 15 minutes.
  • the keratin fibers may be treated at room temperature.
  • the keratin fibers can be heated at 25°C to 65°C, preferably 30°C to 60°C, more preferably 35°C to 55°C, and even more preferably 40°C to 50°C, before and/or during and/or after the step of applying the fourth composition onto the keratin fibers.
  • the process according to the present invention can also comprise the step of: (5) treating the keratin fibers with the fifth composition as explained above. Step (5) can be performed after step (4).
  • a step of rinsing and/or a step of drying can be performed before step (4) and/or between step (4) and step (5) and/or after step (5).
  • the keratin fibers to which the fifth composition has been applied can be left for an appropriate time which is required to treat the keratin fibers.
  • the time length for each treatment is not limited, but it may be from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 1 to 10 minutes, and more preferably from 1 to 5 minutes.
  • the total time for the process according to the present invention may be from 3 to 45 minutes, preferably from 3 to 30 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 15 minutes.
  • the keratin fibers may be treated at room temperature.
  • the keratin fibers can be heated at 25°C to 65°C, preferably 30°C to 60°C, more preferably 35°C to 55°C, and even more preferably 40°C to 50°C, before and/or during and/or after the step of applying the fifth composition onto the keratin fibers.
  • the above process according to the present invention is preferably for cosmetic purposes for the keratin fibers, for example, for cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, such as hair, other than permanent reshaping of the keratin fibers.
  • the present invention also relates to a kit for keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising
  • a third compartment comprising a third composition
  • the first composition comprises (al) at least one urea compound
  • the second composition comprises (bl) at least one cationic polyamino acid
  • the third composition comprises (cl) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof.
  • the kit according to the present invention includes the optional first compartment, the essential second compartment and the essential third compartment, each of which includes, respectively, the first, second and third compositions separately.
  • the optional first, the essential second and the essential third compartments may be equipped with a dispensing or discharging means such as a pump.
  • the optional first compartment, the essential second compartment and the essential third compartment may be separately included in three distinct containers. On the other hand, these compartments may be in a single container.
  • step (2) (1) and step (2), and/or between step (2) and step (3) and/or after step (3).
  • the kit according to the present invention can further comprise a fourth compartment comprising a fourth composition comprising (dl) at least one aminosilicone, as explained above.
  • step (3) (4) dispensing or discharging the fourth composition from the fourth compartment, followed by applying the fourth composition to keratin fibers in order to treat the keratin fibers which have already been treated with the third composition can be performed after step (3).
  • a step of rinsing and/or a step of drying can be performed between step (3) and step (4) and/or after step (4).
  • the kit according to the present invention can further comprise a fifth compartment comprising a fifth composition comprising (el) at least one aminosilicone, as explained above.
  • step (4) dispensing or discharging the fifth composition from the fifth compartment, followed by applying the fifth composition to keratin fibers in order to treat the keratin fibers which have already been treated with the fourth composition can be performed after step (4).
  • a step of rinsing and/or a step of drying can be performed between step (4) and step (5) and/or after step (5).
  • the present invention also relates to a use of a combination of, at least,
  • the first composition comprises (al) at least one urea compound
  • the second composition comprises (bl) at least one cationic polyamino acid
  • the third composition comprises (cl) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, for improving combing of keratin fibers and/or improving smoothness of keratin fibers.
  • Improving combing includes making combing easier.
  • Improving smoothness includes making feeling to the touch smoother.
  • the combination in the use according to the present invention can further comprise (4) treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a fourth composition comprising (dl) at least one aminosilicone.
  • the combination in the use according to the present invention can further comprise (5) treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, with a fifth composition comprising (el) at least one aminosilicone.
  • kit and use are preferably for cosmetic purposes for keratin fibers, for example, for cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, such as hair, other than permanent reshaping of the keratin fibers.
  • the first composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1.
  • the numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active materials. Table 1
  • the second composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 2.
  • the numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.
  • the third composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 3. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active materials. Table 3 Fourth composition
  • the fourth composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 4.
  • the numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.
  • the fifth composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 5.
  • the numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active materials.
  • the second and third compositions were selected, and used to treat a tress of natural hair fibers in accordance with the following steps.
  • the tress was shampooed and rinsed with water.
  • the second composition was applied onto the tress by hand.
  • the tress was left at least 5 minutes under heat (50 °C).
  • the tress was rinsed with water and dried.
  • the hair tress was shampooed three times and dried, and then, “combing”, “smoothness” and “manageability” of the hair tress were evaluated by four professional panelists, by sensory evaluation, relative to the benchmark (untreated hair tress) based on the following criteria.
  • the hair treatment according to Example 1 which used the second and third compositions were able to improve combing, smoothness and manageability of hair as compared to nontreated hair.
  • the first, second and third compositions were selected, and used to treat a tress of natural hair fibers in accordance with the following steps. 1.
  • the tress was shampooed and rinsed with water.
  • the first composition was applied onto the tress by hand.
  • the tress was left for 5 minutes at a room temperature.
  • the tress was left at least 5 minutes under heat (50 °C).
  • the first, second, third and fourth compositions were selected, and used to treat a tress of natural hair fibers in accordance with the following steps.
  • the tress was shampooed and rinsed with water.
  • the first composition was applied onto the tress by hand.
  • the tress was left for 5 minutes at a room temperature.
  • the tress was left for at least 5 minutes under heat (50 °C).
  • the hair tress was shampooed three times and dried, and then, “combing”, “smoothness” and “manageability” of the hair tress were evaluated by four professional panelists, by sensory evaluation, relative to the benchmark (Example 1) based on the following criteria.
  • the hair treatment according to Example 2 which used the first, second and third compositions was able to further improve combing and smoothness of hair as compared to the hair treatment according to Example 1 which lacked using the first composition.
  • the hair treatment according to Example 3 which used the first, second, third and fourth compositions was also able to further improve combing and smoothness of hair as compared to the hair treatment according to Example 1 which lacked using the first composition.
  • the hair treatment according to Example 3 which used the first, second, third and fourth compositions was also able to further improve combing just after drying hair, as well as combing and smoothness of hair after shampooing three times, as compared to the hair treatment according to Example 2 which lacked using the fourth composition.
  • the first, second, third, fourth and fifth compositions were selected, and used to treat a tress of natural hair fibers in accordance with the following steps. 1.
  • the tress was shampooed and rinsed with water.
  • the first composition was applied onto the tress by hand.
  • the tress was left for 5 minutes at a room temperature.
  • the tress was left for at least 5 minutes under heat (50 °C).
  • the hair treatment according to Example 4 which used the first, second, third, fourth and fifth compositions was also able to further improve combing, smoothness, and manageability of hair just after drying hair, as compared to the hair treatment according to Example 3 which lacked using the fifth composition.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une combinaison d'au moins, (1) le traitement éventuel de fibres kératiniques avec une première composition; (2) le traitement de fibres kératiniques avec une deuxième composition; et (3) le traitement de fibres kératiniques avec une troisième composition, la première composition comprenant (al) au moins un composé choisi parmi l'urée et/ou des dérivés d'urée, la deuxième composition comprenant (hi) au moins un acide polyaminé cationique, et la troisième composition comprenant (cl) au moins un ester de polyol(s) et de dimère de diacide gras, ou un ester associé. Le procédé selon la présente invention permet de faciliter le démêlage de fibres kératiniques telles que des cheveux, et peut fournir une sensation lisse au toucher des fibres kératiniques telles que les cheveux. Ces effets peuvent être maintenus même après plusieurs shampoings.
PCT/JP2021/044604 2020-12-01 2021-11-30 Procédé de traitement de fibres kératiniques WO2022118982A1 (fr)

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JP2020199439 2020-12-01
JP2020-199439 2020-12-01
FR2100406A FR3118876B1 (fr) 2021-01-15 2021-01-15 Procede de traitement des fibres kératineuses
FR2100406 2021-01-15

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