WO2022079271A1 - Composition cosmétique de nettoyage comprenant deux tensioactifs, un diol spécifique et un fructane - Google Patents
Composition cosmétique de nettoyage comprenant deux tensioactifs, un diol spécifique et un fructane Download PDFInfo
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- WO2022079271A1 WO2022079271A1 PCT/EP2021/078665 EP2021078665W WO2022079271A1 WO 2022079271 A1 WO2022079271 A1 WO 2022079271A1 EP 2021078665 W EP2021078665 W EP 2021078665W WO 2022079271 A1 WO2022079271 A1 WO 2022079271A1
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- fructan
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- 229920002670 Fructan Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
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- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 title abstract description 6
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- 229940043375 1,5-pentanediol Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)CO WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 14
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- 150000008051 alkyl sulfates Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 24
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
- A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
Definitions
- Cleansing cosmetic composition comprising two surfactants, a specific diol and a fructan
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly a cleansing cosmetic composition of the skin and skin appendages, preferably a shower gel or a cleansing product for the face, body, hands and/or hair, comprising an aqueous phase, two specific surfactants, one amphoteric of betaine type, the other anionic of alkyl sulfate type, a specific diol and a fructan.
- a cosmetic composition particularly a cleansing cosmetic composition of the skin and skin appendages, preferably a shower gel or a cleansing product for the face, body, hands and/or hair, comprising an aqueous phase, two specific surfactants, one amphoteric of betaine type, the other anionic of alkyl sulfate type, a specific diol and a fructan.
- the cleansing of the skin is very important for skin care. It must be as effective as possible because fatty residues such as excess sebum or the remainder of cosmetic products used daily accumulate in the skin folds and can obstruct the pores of the skin and cause the appearance of pimples.
- a means for correctly cleansing the skin is to use foaming cleansing products.
- Foaming cleansing products currently commercially available have the form of cakes, gels or foaming liquids. They generally contain either soaps that have the advantage of providing a creamy and voluminous foam but can cause tightness due to their excessive detergency, or foaming surfactants of syndet type and stabilizers, which are associated with one another. Moreover, the use of the foaming cleansing products currently commercially available can cause the eyes to sting and/or eye irritation.
- cleansing and/or care compositions for keratin materials preferably of the skin of the face and/or of the body and/or of the hands which exhibit good ocular tolerance, while being foaming, stable, have a sufficient rinse rate, and give the skin a protective and/or moisturizing film.
- cleansing and/or care compositions for keratin materials preferably of the skin of the face and/or of the body and/or of the hands which exhibit the previously mentioned advantages as well as a sufficient fluidity.
- the aim of the present invention is to provide such compositions, not having the drawbacks of the prior art, having good qualities of use (foam quality, consistency, skin moisturization after drying), and a good ocular tolerance.
- compositions containing an amphoteric surfactant selected from betaines, an anionic surfactant selected from alkyl sulfates, a specific diol and a fructan makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition, particularly a shower gel that responds to these needs while remaining stable.
- the compositions according to the invention particularly have an enhanced ocular tolerance.
- the compositions according to the invention also have an optimized viscosity for the use thereof.
- the invention relates to a cosmetic composition
- a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: an aqueous phase, at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from betaines, at least one anionic surfactant selected from alkyl sulfates, pentylene glycol, and at least 0.9% active substance by weight of at least one fructan relative to the total weight of the composition.
- It also relates to a process for the cleansing of keratin materials, particularly the skin of the body or face or hair or hands, comprising the application on said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as defined above.
- keratin materials refers to the skin (body, face, eye contour), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips and/or mucous membranes.
- cosmetically acceptable medium refers to any medium compatible with the skin and/or integuments thereof, having a pleasant color, odor and texture and not giving rise to unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), liable to dissuade the consumer from using the composition.
- composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
- the aqueous phase contains water.
- the water used can be sterile demineralized water and/or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and/or a spring or natural mineral water, such as for example: Vittel water, water from the basin of Vichy, Uriage water, la Roche Posay water, la Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, les Eaux Bonnes, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water and Tercis-les-bains water, Avene water.
- the aqueous phase contains possibly at least one organic solvent that is soluble or miscible in water.
- the water-soluble or water-miscible solvents suitable for the invention comprise short-chain mono-alcohols for example C1 -C4 such as ethanol, isopropanol; diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1 ,2-propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethylether, triethylene glycol monomethylether, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.
- C1 -C4 such as ethanol, isopropanol
- diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1 ,2-propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethylether, triethylene glycol monomethylether, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.
- the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises pentylene glycol.
- the active substance content of pentylene glycol is between 0.05% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight.
- the pentylene glycol is particularly that marketed by MINASOLVE under the name A-LEEN 5 or by SYMRISE under the name HYDROLITE 5 GREEN, by AROMA HOLLY LIMITED under the name PENTYLENE GLYCOL, by MINASOLVE under the name PENTIOL, by LANXESS under the name PUROLAN PD-LO or by SYMRISE under the name HYDROLITE-5.
- pentylene glycol in the composition according to the invention helps reduce the viscosity of the composition.
- Pentylene glycol has a higher fluidization efficiency than other known fluidizers. It thus helps reduce the quantity of fluidizer comprised in the composition, while retaining an equivalent or even lower viscosity.
- the composition according to the invention has a viscosity in the range of 20 to 100 s, preferably 30 to 70 s, measured by the following test A:
- a consistometer cup is used, for example the Labomat VF2050 consistometer cup, with a diameter of 6 mm ("CF6").
- 150 ml of composition are placed in the cup, and the whole is thermostated at 25°C +/- 0.5°C.
- the cup is placed on a horizontal support, and a beaker is placed underneath on a balance.
- the flow time is timed so that 90g +/- 0.5g of composition falls to a standardized height of 20 cm into the beaker.
- the standardized height of 20 cm is the distance from the lower end of the consistometer cup to the surface of the balance.
- the measurement can only be considered meaningful for a continuous flow of these 90 g.
- the composition according to the invention is free from glycerol, or comprises glycerol such that the active substance weight ratio between fructan and glycerol is strictly greater than 1 .
- the aqueous phase represents from 15 to 97% by weight, preferentially from 30 to 90% by weight, more preferably from 45 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least 50% by weight of water, preferably at least 55% by weight.
- composition according to the invention also comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from betaines.
- Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants according to the invention are preferably selected from:
- the betaine type amphoteric surfactant is selected from alkyl betaines and N-alkylamido betaines, preferably from N-alkylamido betaines, more preferably from cocamidopropyl betaine, coco-betaine and mixtures thereof.
- the active substance content of amphoteric surfactant(s) selected from alkyl betaines is preferably between 1 % and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight.
- Anionic surfactant selected from alkyl sulfates
- the anionic surfactant is selected from ammonium salts.
- the anionic surfactant is ammonium lauryl sulfate.
- Ammonium lauryl sulfate is the ammonium salt of the sulfate ester of lauric alcohol which generally has the formula CH 3 (CH 2 )IOCH 2 OS03NH4.
- a preferred ammonium lauryl sulfate according to the present invention is that marketed by ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ under the name SULFETAL LA B - RSPO - MB or SULFETAL LA B, by PCC EXOL under the name ROSULFAN A MB or ROSULFAN A or by INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS under the name EMPICOL AL 30 I FL3 I MB or EMPICOL AL 30 / FL3.
- the active substance content of alkyl sulfate type anionic surfactant(s) is preferably at least equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 5 and 20% by weight, preferably between 5 and 15% by weight. Furthermore, preferably in the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio of active substance between the anionic surfactant and the amphoteric surfactant is less than or equal to 4.5, preferably between 2.5 and 4.5, preferably between 3 and 4, preferably between 3.1 and 3.9.
- the total active substance quantity of surfactants is between 6 and 30% by weight, preferably between 6 and 20% by weight.
- Fructans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a chain of anhydrofructose units optionally associated with one or more different saccharide residues of fructose.
- Fructans can be linear or branched.
- Fructans can be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source or products in which the chain length has been modified (increased or reduced) by fractionation, synthesis, or hydrolysis, particularly enzymatic.
- Fructans generally have a degree of polymerization from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 3 to about 60.
- fructans one group is distinguished comprising products in which the fructose units are mostly bonded by p bonds (2 ⁇ 1). These are essentially linear fructans, such as inulins.
- the fructan comprised in the compositions according to the invention is inulin.
- Inulin can be obtained for example from chicory, dahlia, or Jerusalem artichoke.
- the inulin used in the composition according to the invention is obtained for example from chicory.
- Inulin is particularly plentiful in plant rhizomes, particularly Jerusalem artichoke and chicory from which it is extracted industrially. It is also found in other plants belonging to the Asteraceae family such as Jerusalem artichokes, or dahlia bulbs, and burdock.
- Inulin can be represented by the following formula (I): wherein n varies from 2 to 60.
- the cosmetic composition according to the invention can comprise a salt, particularly an electrolyte.
- the electrolyte can be selected from sodium chloride or sodium sulfate.
- the electrolyte is preferably sodium chloride.
- the active substance content of electrolyte is between 0.2% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5% and 3% by weight, preferably between 1 % and 2% by weight.
- the electrolyte is particularly used to correct the final viscosity of the composition according to the invention.
- compositions according to the present invention can further comprises conventional cosmetic additives, selected particularly from preservatives, pH adjusters, oils, ionic or nonionic thickeners, moistening agents, anti-foaming agents, perfumes, active constituents, fillers, propellants or any other ingredient usually used for cosmetics and/or dermatology.
- conventional cosmetic additives selected particularly from preservatives, pH adjusters, oils, ionic or nonionic thickeners, moistening agents, anti-foaming agents, perfumes, active constituents, fillers, propellants or any other ingredient usually used for cosmetics and/or dermatology.
- pH adjusters mention may be made of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid,
- SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
- alkalin izing agents mentioned may be made, by way of example, of ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines as well as the derivatives thereof, sodium and potassium hydroxides.
- pH adjusters can be present at an active substance amount between 0.01% and 1 %, in order to obtain an acceptable pH.
- the pH of the compositions according to the invention is between 4 and 7, and preferably between 4 and 6.
- oils such as olive oil, safflower oil, cumin oil and particularly black seed (Nigella) oil, sweet almond oil, or essential oils, such as essential mint oil or essential peppermint oil. These oils can be present at an active substance amount between 0.0001% and 1% by weight, preferably 0.001% and 0.5% by weight.
- Example 1 Preparation and evaluation of compositions according to the invention
- composition C1 according to the invention and comparative compositions C2* to C6* were prepared by mixing the ingredients from the tables below in water. [Table 1 ]
- OECD test guideline 437 https://read.oecd-ilibrarv.org/environment/test-no-437- bovine-corneal-opacitv-and-permeabilitv-test-method-for-identifyinq-i-chemicals-inducinq- serious-eve-damage-and-ii-chemicals-not-requiring-classification-for-eye-irritation-or- serious-eye-damaqe 9789264203846-en#paqe7) and
- HETCAM hen's egg test-chorioallantoic membrane
- composition C1 according to the invention gave +++ results for both corneal integrity and conjunctival integrity; therefore, it exhibits markedly superior ocular tolerance results in the models used to that observed for comparative test compositions C2* to C6*.
- Composition C7 according to the invention was prepared by mixing the ingredients from the tables below in water.
- composition C7 according to the invention was tested by corneometry.
- test panel is as follows:
- test conditions are as follows:
- Study region inner surface of legs. Delimitation of 2 areas of 4*4 cm 2 - 1 areas on each leg, a treated area versus an untreated area.
- Quantity applied 2mg/cm 2 , or 32 mg on the area
- the untreated area is moistened and rinsed. Drying by dabbing gently with a tissue
- Composition C7 increases skin moisturization significantly 30 min (8%) after application compared to the control area washed with water.
- Composition C7 therefore has a significant effect 30 min after application on the skin.
- composition C7 was evaluated; the presence of pentylene glycol in composition C7 makes it possible to obtain a composition with a lower viscosity than in the absence of pentylene glycol.
- the viscosity was measured according to the protocol of test A above.
- composition C7 The viscosity of composition C7 is of 40 s, whereas the viscosity of a composition corresponding to composition C7 without pentylene glycol is of 108 s.
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable : une phase aqueuse, au moins un tensioactif amphotère choisi parmi les bétaïnes, au moins un tensioactif anionique choisi parmi des sulfates d'alkyle, du pentylène glycol et au moins 0,9 % de substance active en poids d'au moins un fructane par rapport au poids total de la composition.
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EP21789767.7A EP4228591A1 (fr) | 2020-10-16 | 2021-10-15 | Composition cosmétique de nettoyage comprenant deux tensioactifs, un diol spécifique et un fructane |
CN202180070521.2A CN116490161A (zh) | 2020-10-16 | 2021-10-15 | 含两种表面活性剂、特定二醇和果聚糖的清洁化妆品组合物 |
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FR2010648A FR3115198B1 (fr) | 2020-10-16 | 2020-10-16 | Composition cosmétique nettoyante comprenant deux tensioactifs, un diol spécifique et un fructane |
FRFR2010648 | 2020-10-16 |
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CN (1) | CN116490161A (fr) |
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Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US8993792B2 (en) * | 2012-02-03 | 2015-03-31 | Evonik Industries Ag | Polyglycol ether-free sulphosuccinates based on polyglycerol partial esters and use thereof |
FR3063637A1 (fr) * | 2017-03-07 | 2018-09-14 | Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher | Utilisation d'extraits d'agave pour une application capillaire |
FR3086542A1 (fr) * | 2018-09-28 | 2020-04-03 | Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher | Utilisation d'un extrait d'agave pour renforcer la fonction barriere de la peau, du cuir chevelu et/ou des muqueuses et moduler le microbiote cutane |
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DE10205190B4 (de) * | 2002-02-08 | 2017-06-08 | Beiersdorf Ag | 2-Methyl-1,3-propandiol haltige Zubereitungen |
FR2864777B1 (fr) * | 2004-01-05 | 2008-02-01 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique detergente comprenant des tensioactifs anioniques et amphoteres, un polymere cationique fortement charge et un sel hydrosoluble |
US20170087199A1 (en) * | 2016-02-10 | 2017-03-30 | Senomyx, Inc. | Compositions for delivering a cooling sensation |
JP7039968B2 (ja) * | 2016-11-30 | 2022-03-23 | 味の素株式会社 | アシルアミノ酸高配合組成物 |
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2020
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- 2021-10-15 EP EP21789767.7A patent/EP4228591A1/fr active Pending
- 2021-10-15 WO PCT/EP2021/078665 patent/WO2022079271A1/fr active Application Filing
- 2021-10-15 CN CN202180070521.2A patent/CN116490161A/zh active Pending
Patent Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US8993792B2 (en) * | 2012-02-03 | 2015-03-31 | Evonik Industries Ag | Polyglycol ether-free sulphosuccinates based on polyglycerol partial esters and use thereof |
FR3063637A1 (fr) * | 2017-03-07 | 2018-09-14 | Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher | Utilisation d'extraits d'agave pour une application capillaire |
FR3086542A1 (fr) * | 2018-09-28 | 2020-04-03 | Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher | Utilisation d'un extrait d'agave pour renforcer la fonction barriere de la peau, du cuir chevelu et/ou des muqueuses et moduler le microbiote cutane |
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
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WOODRUFF JOHN: "Personal Care Feature: Bathroom Products 2005", INTERNET CITATION, 17 January 2005 (2005-01-17), pages 1 - 5, XP002491404, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:http://www.creative-developments.co.uk/papers/Bathroom%20Feature%202005.pdf> [retrieved on 20080806] * |
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CN116490161A (zh) | 2023-07-25 |
EP4228591A1 (fr) | 2023-08-23 |
FR3115198B1 (fr) | 2023-10-27 |
FR3115198A1 (fr) | 2022-04-22 |
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