WO2021258643A1 - 皂氨型洁面产品及其制备方法 - Google Patents

皂氨型洁面产品及其制备方法 Download PDF

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WO2021258643A1
WO2021258643A1 PCT/CN2020/132836 CN2020132836W WO2021258643A1 WO 2021258643 A1 WO2021258643 A1 WO 2021258643A1 CN 2020132836 W CN2020132836 W CN 2020132836W WO 2021258643 A1 WO2021258643 A1 WO 2021258643A1
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soap
potassium
facial cleansing
sodium
surfactant
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PCT/CN2020/132836
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English (en)
French (fr)
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戴跃锋
何广文
颜少慰
闫加雷
钱景茹
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湖南御家化妆品制造有限公司
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Priority to CA3180863A priority Critical patent/CA3180863A1/en
Priority to AU2020455109A priority patent/AU2020455109B2/en
Publication of WO2021258643A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021258643A1/zh

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42—Amides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a soap ammonia type facial cleansing product and a preparation method thereof.
  • Facial cleansing products are cleansing products for facial skin. Their purpose is to remove dirt on the skin, refresh the skin, and help maintain the normal physiological state of the skin. Facial cleansing products can remove sebum, stratum corneum flakes, sweat and other skin physiological metabolites attached to the surface of the skin, as well as dust, microorganisms, and used cosmetic residues. In all skin care products, sales accounted for a relatively large proportion.
  • emulsified facial cleansing products According to the difference in the main ingredients used in facial cleansing products on the market, there are currently 7 main systems: emulsified facial cleansing products, active facial cleansing products, soap-based facial cleansing products, MAP (alkyl phosphate) facial cleansing products, SCI ( Sodium cocoyl isethionate) facial cleansing products, alkyl glycoside facial cleansing products, amino acid facial cleansing products.
  • MAP alkyl phosphate
  • SCI Sodium cocoyl isethionate
  • Emulsified facial cleansing products using an emulsified system, the appearance of the product is similar to ordinary cream emulsions, because it does not contain or contains a small amount of surfactants, there is basically no foam when used, and the cleaning effect is poor.
  • Soap-based facial cleansing products using fatty acid soap as the main component of the product, the product has a thick paste-like appearance, generally has a strong pearlescent effect, rich product foam, strong cleaning power, suitable for oily skin.
  • the disadvantage is that after use There will be a feeling of tightness or dry skin. If consumers are used to this type of product, they will be dependent on their cleaning ability, and then using other types of cleansing products will feel that the cleansing power is not enough.
  • MAP-type cleansing products The appearance of MAP-type cleansing products is completely the same as that of ordinary shampoos, and its use effect is between active-type facial cleansing products and soap-based facial cleansing products.
  • the foam is richer than surface-active facial cleansing products but no soap It has a lot of base and has stronger cleaning power than the surface active type but no soap base type. Therefore, this type of product is suitable for all types of skin.
  • Facial cleansing products with MAP as the main surfactant have mildness between general surfactant cleansing products and soap-based cleansing products. They are easy to rinse off, have weak degreasing power, and have good performance and skin feel.
  • the MAP type has low viscosity and insufficient product stability.
  • SCI-type cleansing products are gentle cleansing, rich in foam, unique soap-like appearance, and medium cost. The foam is rich and delicate, can penetrate into the clean skin, it is very slippery during wet washing and wet washing, bringing a more comfortable feeling of use.
  • Alkyl glycoside cleansing product Alkyl glycoside (APG) is a biomass surfactant prepared by the reaction of natural renewable raw material glucose and fatty alcohol, without any toxic and harmful by-products, it is a non-ionic surface with more comprehensive and excellent performance The active agent has the characteristics of an anionic surfactant.
  • alkyl glycoside surfactant as the main ingredient of cleansing, the use effect of this cleansing product is similar to that of ordinary active cleansing products, but the properties are milder, the skin feels more comfortable, safe and non-irritating, it is often used as a transparent baby product and for allergies sexual skin.
  • this type of product is difficult to thicken, and the foam is not rich, and the appearance of the product is not very beautiful, generally similar to the appearance of a shower gel.
  • Amino acid facial cleansing products Amino acid facial cleansing products are the most gentle products. The characteristics of this type of product are that it feels comfortable when used and has a strong moisturizing feeling after use. There are two types of products in the state, one It is paste-like, without viscosity and silky feeling.
  • This product is pure amino acid system, thickened by the characteristics of amino acid itself, but the cost is super high; one is similar to viscous shampoo, and this is generally used. Thickeners are needed for thickening. Generally, it cannot be made into a pure amino acid system. Other surfactants must be compounded. Therefore, the effect is slightly worse and the cost is lower.
  • a soap ammonia type facial cleansing product including amino acid surfactants, soap-based surfactants, auxiliary surfactants, additives and solvents;
  • the amino acid surfactant is selected from potassium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, cocoyl alanine TEA salt, sodium cocoyl glutamate, lauroyl glutamine At least one of acid TEA salt, sodium lauroyl glutamate and sodium palmitoleyl glutamate;
  • the soap-based surfactant is selected from at least one of potassium cocoate, potassium laurate, potassium myristate, potassium palmitate and potassium stearate;
  • the auxiliary surfactant is selected from the group consisting of sodium lauroyl amphoteric acetate, lauryl hydroxy sultaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, cocoamide, dodecyl two At least one of methyl betaine and palm kernel oleamide.
  • the amino acid surfactant is potassium cocoyl glycinate and/or sodium cocoyl glycinate; the auxiliary surfactant is selected from sodium lauroyl amphoteric acetate, lauryl hydroxy sultaine , At least two of cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, cocamide, dodecyl dimethyl betaine and palm kernel oleamide.
  • the soap ammonia-based facial cleansing product includes the following components in weight percentage: 0.1%-15% amino acid surfactant, 0.1%-15% soap-based surfactant, 0.1%-20% auxiliary surface Active agent, 0.5%-20% auxiliary and 30%-99% solvent.
  • the auxiliary agent includes a thickening agent, a preservative, and a pH adjusting agent.
  • the weight percentage of the thickener is 0.2% to 13%, and the weight percentage of the preservative is 0.01% to 3%, The weight percentage of the pH adjuster is 0.1%-8%.
  • the thickener is selected from acrylic ester copolymers, sodium chloride, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, and acrylic acid (ester) / steareth-20 methacrylate cross At least one kind of bipolymer.
  • the preservative is selected from hydantoin, quaternary ammonium salt-15, bisimidazolidinyl urea, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, benzoic acid, sodium benzoate, sorbic acid And at least one of salicylic acid.
  • the type of the soap-based facial cleansing product includes facial cleanser, facial cleanser, facial cleanser, facial cleanser, facial cleansing gel, facial cleansing mousse, or facial cleansing soap.
  • the soap ammonia type facial cleansing product includes the following components in weight percentage: potassium cocoyl glycinate/sodium cocoyl glycinate 0.1%-10%, potassium cocoate 0.5%-8%, laurel Sodium amphoacetate 0.5%-8%, lauryl hydroxysultaine 0.1%-8%, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer 0.1%-5%, sodium chloride 0.01%-2%, hydroxypropyl methyl Base cellulose 0.01% ⁇ 3%, acrylic acid/steareth-20 methacrylate cross-linked polymer 0.1% ⁇ 5%, preservative 0.01% ⁇ 1%, pH adjuster 0.1% ⁇ 1% and water 49% ⁇ 98%.
  • the soap ammonia type facial cleansing product includes the following components in weight percentage: potassium cocoyl glycinate/sodium cocoyl glycinate 1%-13%, potassium laurate 0.1%-9%, coconut oil Amidopropyl betaine 0.5% ⁇ 10%, lauryl glucoside 0.1% ⁇ 8%, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer 0.1% ⁇ 5%, sodium chloride 0.01% ⁇ 1%, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 0.01% to 3%, acrylic (ester) type/steareth-20 methacrylate cross-linked polymer 0.1% to 5%, preservative 0.01% to 1%, pH adjuster 0.1% to 1% and Water 44% ⁇ 98%.
  • the soap ammonia type facial cleansing product includes the following components in weight percentage: potassium cocoyl glycinate/sodium cocoyl glycinate 1%-15%, potassium myristate 0.5%-10%, decanoate Glucoside 0.1% ⁇ 7%, Cocamide 1% ⁇ 10%, Acrylic (ester) copolymer 0.1% ⁇ 5%, Sodium chloride 0.01% ⁇ 0.5%, Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 0.1% ⁇ 3%, acrylic (ester) type/steareth-20 methacrylate cross-linked polymer 0.1% ⁇ 3%, preservative 0.01% ⁇ 0.8%, pH regulator 0.05% ⁇ 3% and water 43% ⁇ 97%.
  • the soap ammonia type facial cleansing product includes the following components in weight percentage: potassium cocoyl glycinate/sodium cocoyl glycinate 2%-12%, potassium stearate 1.5%-15%, ten Dialkyl dimethyl betaine 1% to 7%, palm kernel oleamide 0.1% to 5%, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer 0.1% to 5%, sodium chloride 0.01% to 1%, hydroxypropyl methyl Base 0.01% ⁇ 2%, acrylic acid (ester)/steareth-20 methacrylate cross-linked polymer 0.1% ⁇ 5%, preservative 0.01% ⁇ 1%, pH adjuster 0.05% ⁇ 1% and water 45%-95%.
  • the soap-ammonia facial cleansing product further includes at least one of skin conditioners and functional ingredients.
  • Another aspect of the present invention provides a method for preparing a soap-ammonia-type facial cleansing product, which comprises the following steps: mixing the raw materials of the foregoing soap-ammonia-type facial cleansing product together.
  • the preparation method includes the following steps:
  • the soap-ammonia type facial cleansing product of the present invention adopts a specific amino acid surfactant compounded with a specific soap-based surfactant as the main body, and is supplemented with a mild auxiliary surfactant, so that the facial cleansing product has good foaming, mildness and low irritation. , While ensuring the cleansing power of the product, it greatly reduces the irritation caused by soap-based surfactants.
  • soap-based surfactants encounter calcium and magnesium ions in hard water during use to form soap precipitates, which remain on the skin, making them feel poor and irritating; soap-based surfactants and amino acid surfactants are combined After preparation, the amino acid surfactant will remove the soap deposits remaining on the skin during use, improve the feeling of use and reduce irritation; in addition, soap-based surfactants and amino acid surfactants are both anionic surfactants, and Most auxiliary surfactants choose amphoteric surfactants, that is, a type of surfactant with both cationic hydrophilic groups and anionic hydrophilic groups.
  • Amphoteric surfactants have washing, foaming, and emulsifier wetting ability when used alone Not enough, but when compounded with soap-based surfactants and amino acid surfactants, it will have a synergistic effect on foaming, cleaning power, feeling of use, and reducing irritation.
  • this cleansing product Before using this cleansing product, it is easier to foam and richer than amino acid cleansing during hand rubbing; during use, it is gentler than soap-based cleansing during facial rubbing, and it is easier to cleanse than amino acid cleansing during flushing. Flushing; after use, it has stronger cleansing power than amino acid cleansing, more refreshing skin feel, better oil control effect, and less tightness, dryness, and irritation than soap-based cleansing, which satisfies consumers' cleaning power for a long time The appeal of a cleansing product that is strong, less irritating, and not tight after use.
  • the product formula is more concise than traditional facial cleansing products, the formula material cost is lower, and the product stability is good.
  • Figure 1 is a comparison diagram of the foaming power of the cleansing products of Example 1 of the present invention and Comparative Examples 1 to 2;
  • Example 2 is a comparison diagram of the increase rate of skin water loss using the cleansing products of Example 1 of the present invention and Comparative Examples 1 to 2;
  • Fig. 3 is a comparison diagram of the change rate of skin oil content using the cleansing products of Example 1 of the present invention and Comparative Examples 1 to 2;
  • Figure 4 is a comparison diagram of the feeling of use of the cleansing products of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 of the present invention
  • FIG. 5 is a comparison diagram of the feeling of use of the cleansing products of Example 1 and Comparative Example 2 of the present invention.
  • One embodiment of the present invention provides a soap-based facial cleansing product, including amino acid surfactants, soap-based surfactants, co-surfactants, auxiliary agents and solvents; wherein the amino acid surfactants are selected from potassium cocoylglycinate, Sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, TEA salt of cocoyl alanine, sodium cocoyl glutamate, TEA salt of lauroyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate and palm oleoyl glutamine At least one of sodium salt; soap-based surfactant is selected from at least one of potassium cocoate, potassium laurate, potassium myristate, potassium palmitate and potassium stearate; co-surfactant is selected from laurel Sodium amphoacetate, lauryl hydroxy sultaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, cocoamide, lauryl dimethyl betaine and palm kernel ole
  • the above soap ammonia type facial cleansing products use specific amino acid surfactants compounded with specific soap-based surfactants as the main body, supplemented by mild auxiliary surfactants, so that the cleansing products have good foaming, mild, and low irritation. While ensuring the cleansing power of the product, it greatly reduces the irritation caused by soap-based surfactants. Before using this cleansing product, it is easier to foam and richer than amino acid cleansing during hand rubbing; during use, it is gentler than soap-based cleansing during facial rubbing, and it is easier to cleanse than amino acid cleansing during flushing.
  • Amino acid surfactant is a mild and degradable anionic surfactant. It is the amino acid (such as glutamine) of coconut oil (or laurel oil or palm oil) with foaming and decontamination ability. Acid, glycine) salt (sodium salt, potassium salt, triethanolamine salt). Amino acid surfactants have a pH value of 5.5 to 6.5, which is close to that of human skin. In addition, amino acids are the basic substances that constitute proteins, so they are mild and non-irritating.
  • Soap-based surfactant is an anionic surfactant, which is cheap, HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) is highly hydrophilic, and has good detergency and degreasing power.
  • Co-surfactant It can enhance the detergency and foam stability of amino acid surfactants and soap-based surfactants, and improve the cleaning and conditioning properties of products.
  • betaine amphoteric surfactants can be combined with anionic amino acid surfactants and soap-based surfactants to improve safety and increase viscosity.
  • dodecyl dimethyl betaine (BS -12) It is soluble in water at any pH, its detergency, foaming and permeability are very good, hard water resistance, good biodegradability, its irritation is small, its performance is mild, and it is compatible with anions, cations and Non-ionic surfactants have good compatibility, and also have the functions of conditioning, antistatic, softening and sterilization.
  • amino acid surfactants can be divided into glycine surfactants, sarcosine surfactants, alanine surfactants, and glutamic acid surfactants.
  • the inventor conducted research and analysis on the performance of various amino acid surfactants and found that: from the perspective of refreshing feeling, glycine surfactant>sarcosine surfactant>alanine surfactant>glutamic acid surfactant; On the pH value, glycine surfactant>sarcosine surfactant>alanine surfactant>glutamic acid surfactant.
  • the preferred sequence of amino acid surfactants is glycine surfactants>sarcosine surfactants>alanine surfactants>glutamic acid surfactants.
  • the fatty acid salt as a surfactant is soluble in water, its solubility and surface activity are very susceptible to pH, calcium and magnesium and other metal ions, and temperature factors. Under acidic conditions, it is easily hydrolyzed and loses surface activity, while the water solubility decreases. Therefore, when selecting compound amino acids, first choose glycine surfactants and sarcosine surfactants whose pH is relatively close to alkaline. The mildness and water flushing properties of sarcosine surfactants are slightly inferior to that of glycine surfactants, so glycine surfactants are more preferred.
  • the amino acid surfactant is potassium cocoyl glycinate and/or sodium cocoyl glycinate; the co-surfactant is selected from sodium lauroyl amphoteric acetate, lauryl hydroxy sulfobetaine, cocoamide propyl At least two of betaine, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, cocamide, dodecyl dimethyl betaine, and palm kernel oleamide.
  • the co-surfactant is a combination of sodium lauroamphoacetate and lauryl hydroxysultaine, a combination of cocamidopropyl betaine and lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and cocoamide And one of the combinations of lauryl dimethyl betaine and palm kernel oleamide.
  • the soap ammonia type facial cleansing product includes the following components in weight percentage: 0.1%-15% amino acid surfactant, 0.1%-15% soap-based surfactant, 0.1%-20% co-surfactant , 0.5%-20% additives and 30%-99% solvents.
  • adjuvants include thickeners, preservatives, and pH adjusters.
  • the weight percentage of the thickening agent is 0.2% to 13%
  • the weight percentage of the preservative is 0.01% to 3%
  • the pH regulator is The weight percentage is 0.1%-8%.
  • thickeners also known as gelling agents
  • gelling agents can increase the viscosity or consistency of the product so that the system can maintain a uniform and stable suspension or turbid state, or form a gel; at the same time, it also has an emulsifying effect.
  • Preservatives can inhibit microbial activity, prevent product spoilage, and make the product have a certain shelf life.
  • pH adjusters are also called acidity adjusters, which are used to maintain or change the pH of the product.
  • the thickener is selected from acrylate copolymers, sodium chloride, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, and acrylic/steareth-20 methacrylate cross-linked polymer At least one of.
  • the thickener is an acrylic copolymer, sodium chloride, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, and acrylic/steareth-20 methacrylate cross-linked polymer combination.
  • the preservative is selected from hydantoin, quaternary ammonium salt-15, bisimidazolidinyl urea, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, benzoic acid, sodium benzoate, sorbic acid, and salicylic acid. At least one of the acids.
  • the preservative is hydantoin.
  • the pH adjusting agent is an acid agent, an alkali agent, and a salt with a buffering effect that control the required pH of the product.
  • the pH adjusting agent is potassium hydroxide.
  • the solvent is water.
  • the types of soap-based facial cleansing products include facial cleansers, facial cleansers, facial cleansers, facial cleansers, facial cleansing gels, facial cleansing mousses, or facial cleansing soaps.
  • the soap ammonia type facial cleansing product includes the following components in weight percentage: potassium cocoyl glycinate/sodium cocoyl glycinate 0.1%-10%, potassium cocoate 0.5%-8%, lauroyl amphoteric Sodium acetate 0.5% to 8%, lauryl hydroxy sultaine 0.1% to 8%, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer 0.1% to 5%, sodium chloride 0.01% to 2%, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 0.01% to 3%, acrylic (ester) type/steareth-20 methacrylate cross-linked polymer 0.1% to 5%, preservative 0.01% to 1%, pH adjuster 0.1% to 1% and Water 49% ⁇ 98%.
  • the soap ammonia type facial cleansing product includes the following components by weight percentage: potassium cocoyl glycinate/sodium cocoyl glycinate 1%-10%, potassium cocoate 2%-8%, sodium lauroyl amphoteric acetate 2 % ⁇ 8%, lauryl hydroxysultaine 1% ⁇ 8%, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer 1% ⁇ 5%, sodium chloride 0.1% ⁇ 1%, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 0.01% ⁇ 0.5%, acrylic (ester) type/steareth-20 methacrylate cross-linked polymer 1% ⁇ 5%, preservative 0.1% ⁇ 0.5%, pH regulator 0.1% ⁇ 1% and water 53% ⁇ 90%.
  • soap-ammonia-based cleansing product specific soap-based surfactants, amino acid surfactants, and co-surfactants are matched in the above-mentioned specific proportions, and with thickeners, etc., the foaming speed will be very high during use. Fast, and the bubble is large and rich.
  • the soap ammonia type facial cleansing product includes the following components in weight percentage: potassium cocoyl glycinate/sodium cocoyl glycinate 1%-13%, potassium laurate 0.1%-9%, cocamidopropyl Betaine 0.5% ⁇ 10%, lauryl glucoside 0.1% ⁇ 8%, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer 0.1% ⁇ 5%, sodium chloride 0.01% ⁇ 1%, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 0.01% ⁇ 3%, acrylic (ester) type/steareth-20 methacrylate cross-linked polymer 0.1% ⁇ 5%, preservative 0.01% ⁇ 1%, pH regulator 0.1% ⁇ 1% and water 44% ⁇ 98%.
  • the soap ammonia type facial cleansing product includes the following components in weight percentage: potassium cocoyl glycinate/sodium cocoyl glycinate 5% to 13%, potassium laurate 0.1% to 5%, cocamidopropyl betaine 2 % ⁇ 10%, lauryl glucoside 3% ⁇ 8%, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer 0.1% ⁇ 5%, sodium chloride 0.1% ⁇ 1%, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 0.1% ⁇ 3%, Acrylic (ester) type/steareth-20 methacrylate cross-linked polymer 1% ⁇ 5%, preservative 0.1% ⁇ 0.5%, pH adjuster 0.1% ⁇ 1% and water 48.5% ⁇ 88.5% .
  • the specific amino acid surfactants and co-surfactants added are appropriately increased, and the specific soap-based surfactants are added less than the amino acid surface, so that the irritation of the facial cleansing product is very low. , At the same time has good foaming and cleaning power.
  • the saponified facial cleansing product includes the following components in weight percentage: potassium cocoylglycinate/sodium cocoylglycinate 1%-15%, potassium myristate 0.5%-10%, decyl glucoside 0.1% ⁇ 7%, cocoamide 1% ⁇ 10%, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer 0.1% ⁇ 5%, sodium chloride 0.01% ⁇ 0.5%, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 0.1% ⁇ 3%, Acrylic (ester) type/steareth-20 methacrylate cross-linked polymer 0.1% ⁇ 3%, preservative 0.01% ⁇ 0.8%, pH adjuster 0.05% ⁇ 3% and water 43% ⁇ 97% .
  • the soap ammonia type facial cleansing product includes the following components by weight percentage: potassium cocoyl glycinate/sodium cocoyl glycinate 1% ⁇ 5%, potassium myristate 5% ⁇ 10%, and decyl glucoside 1% ⁇ 5%, cocamide 1% ⁇ 5%, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer 0.1% ⁇ 5%, sodium chloride 0.01% ⁇ 0.5%, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 0.1% ⁇ 3%, acrylic acid (ester) ) Class/Steareth-20 methacrylate cross-linked polymer 0.5% to 3%, preservative 0.1% to 0.5%, pH adjuster 0.1% to 3% and water 59% to 91%.
  • the added amount of specific amino acid surfactants and auxiliary surfactants is lower than that of soap-based surfactants, and the product has good foaming and cleansing power, and is mildly irritating.
  • the soap ammonia type facial cleansing product includes the following components in weight percentage: potassium cocoyl glycinate/sodium cocoyl glycinate 2%-12%, potassium stearate 1.5%-15%, dodecyl Dimethyl betaine 1% ⁇ 7%, palm kernel oleamide 0.1% ⁇ 5%, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer 0.1% ⁇ 5%, sodium chloride 0.01% ⁇ 1%, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 0.01% to 2%, acrylic (ester) type/steareth-20 methacrylate cross-linked polymer 0.1% to 5%, preservative 0.01% to 1%, pH adjuster 0.05% to 1%, and Water 45%-95%.
  • the soap ammonia type facial cleansing product includes the following components by weight percentage: potassium cocoyl glycinate/sodium cocoyl glycinate 2%-12%, potassium stearate 2%-15%, dodecyl dimethyl Betaine 1% ⁇ 5%, palm kernel oleamide 1% ⁇ 5%, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer 1% ⁇ 5%, sodium chloride 0.1% ⁇ 1%, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 0.5% ⁇ 2%, acrylic (ester) type/steareth-20 methacrylate cross-linked polymer 1% ⁇ 5%, preservative 0.01% ⁇ 1%, pH regulator 0.05% ⁇ 1% and water 47% ⁇ 91%.
  • the soap-ammonia facial cleansing product is matched with each component and matched according to the above-mentioned ratio, and the product has good fluidity, is very easy to be dispersed by water during use, and is easy to foam and rinse.
  • the soap ammonia type facial cleansing product further includes at least one of a skin conditioner and an functional ingredient.
  • the product By adding acceptable skin conditioning agents and functional ingredients to cleansing products, the product can be given a specific skin feel, efficacy and claim.
  • An embodiment of the present invention also provides a method for preparing a soap-ammonia-type facial cleansing product, which includes mixing the raw materials of the aforementioned soap-ammonia-type facial cleansing product.
  • the above-mentioned preparation method has simple formula, easy-to-obtain raw materials, low formula material cost, and good stability of the obtained product.
  • the obtained product adopts an amino acid surfactant compound soap-based surfactant as the main body and supplemented by an auxiliary surfactant.
  • soap-based surfactant as the main body and supplemented by an auxiliary surfactant.
  • it is easier to foam and richer than amino acid cleansing during hand rubbing; during use, it is gentler than soap-based cleansing during facial rubbing, and it is easier to flush than amino acid cleansing during flushing;
  • After use it has stronger cleaning power, fresher skin feel, and better oil control effect than amino acid cleansing. It has less tightness, dryness and irritation than soap-based cleansing; it satisfies consumers' strong cleaning power and stimulation for a long time.
  • Phase A thickener (acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, sodium chloride, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, acrylic acid (ester) / steareth-20 methacrylic acid Ester crosslinked polymer).
  • Phase B (surface active phase): amino acid surfactants, soap-based surfactants and/or co-surfactants.
  • Phase C pH adjusting phase: pH adjusting agent (potassium hydroxide);
  • Phase D Phase D (other phases): preservatives (DMDM hydantoin), skin conditioners, functional ingredients, etc.
  • phase B Add phase B to the main pot, homogenize at low speed at 10 Hz to 15 Hz for 2 minutes, and stir evenly at 20 Hz to 40 Hz.
  • the soap-ammonia type facial cleanser prepared in Example 1 of the present invention, the amino acid type facial cleanser of Comparative Example 1 and the soap-based facial cleanser of Comparative Example 2 were tested for performance comparison.
  • the foam power is determined by the national standard GB/T13173.6-91 determination method. Prepare the sample with a certain hardness of water to make a certain concentration of test solution. Under certain temperature conditions, after 200 mL of test solution flowed from a height of 90 cm to the surface of 50 mL of the same test solution at the bottom of the graduated cylinder, the measured foam height was used as the foaming force of the sample.
  • the water pump is activated to use circulating water to pass through the graduated tube jacket to stabilize the water temperature at 40 ⁇ 0.5°C.
  • the inner wall of the graduated tube was pre-soaked with butyric acid and sulfuric acid lotion overnight, and rinsed with distilled water until there was no acid.
  • first rinse the inner wall of the graduated measuring tube with distilled water and then rinse the inner wall of the graduated measuring tube with the test solution. The washing should be complete, but there should be no foam on the inner wall.
  • the foaming force of the sample is expressed in millimeters of the initial or 5min foam height, and the average of at least 3 results with an error within the allowable range is taken as the final result.
  • the error between multiple test results does not exceed 5mm.
  • soap-based facial cleansing has the strongest foaming power, followed by soap-based facial cleansing, but soap-based facial cleansing has poor foam stability, with a large amount of foam bursting after 5 minutes; in terms of foam stability, soap-based facial cleansing is stable Sex is the best, followed by amino acid type cleansing.
  • the soap-ammonia-based cleansing face of the present invention has strong foaming power and the best foam stability, and is generally better than soap-based cleansing and amino acid-based cleansing in the dimension of foaming.
  • Two sets of temperature and humidity sensors are used to measure the water vapor pressure gradient formed by the water loss of the stratum corneum at different bright spots near the epidermis (within about 1 cm), and directly measure the amount of water emitted through the skin.
  • the TEWL value is an important indicator of the quality of the skin barrier. The lower the TEWL value of the skin, the better the moisturizing effect, and vice versa.
  • test environment temperature is 22 ⁇ 1°C
  • humidity is 50 ⁇ 5%
  • real-time dynamic detection is performed
  • -Test volunteers at least 30 effective volunteers, aged between 16-65 years (except pregnant or breast-feeding women); no serious systemic disease, no immunodeficiency or autoimmune disease; previous use of skin care cosmetics Those who have no history of severe allergies; those who have not used hormone drugs and immunosuppressive agents in the past month; those who have not participated in other clinical trials; those who have used the test drugs as required and the information is complete; all volunteers should fill in the informed consent form before the test.
  • Preparation before the test Do not use any products (cosmetics or topical drugs) 2-3 days before the test site. Before the experiment, subjects need to agree to clean their hands and forearms for internal testing, and air dry them naturally. After cleaning, the subjects' hands and forearms were measured inside the forearms to mark the measurement area. Before the formal test, you should sit quietly in a room that meets the standard for at least 30 minutes, without drinking water, with your forearms exposed, and place in the test state, and stay relaxed.
  • Test process In the experiment, 3 ⁇ 3cm 2 test area is marked on the inner side of the left and right arms, and multiple areas can be marked on the same arm, and the area is separated by 1cm.
  • the test sample and the control are randomly distributed on the left and right arms.
  • Use the probe Tewameter TM300 to measure the skin water loss of the tested area, and take the average of three tests.
  • Nos. 1 to 3 are soap-based cleansing samples of Comparative Example 2
  • Nos. 4 to 6 are amino acid-based cleansing samples of Comparative Example 1
  • Nos. 7 to 9 are soap-based facial cleansing samples of Example 1.
  • Test data According to the design of the experiment, the skin water loss of each time period was measured, and the increase of the skin water loss of each time point was calculated. The greater the increase in skin loss of water dispersion, the greater the damage of the sample to the skin barrier and the greater the irritation.
  • W is the reduction rate of skin water loss, %
  • W 2 is the loss of skin water dispersion after using the sample
  • W 1 is the loss of water dispersion of the skin before using the sample
  • the test data in the above table is processed to obtain a graph of the increase rate of skin water loss of different types of cleansing as shown in Figure 2. It can be seen from Figure 2 that the long-term use of soap-based facial cleansing skin loses more and more water, and the skin barrier will gradually be destroyed, so soap-based facial cleansing is more irritating to the skin. Long-term use of amino acid-based cleansing has less damage to the skin barrier and less irritation to the skin. After long-term use of soap-ammonia cleansing, the damage to the skin barrier is relatively small, and it is relatively stable, and will not increase with the increase of use time. Therefore, the soap-ammonia-based cleansing surface of the present invention is relatively less irritating to the skin. Cleansing is close.
  • the Sebumeter SM815 a skin oil tester of German CK, is used to evaluate the efficacy of the use effect of the oil-absorbing paper.
  • the oil content test uses the recognized SEBUMETER method, which is based on the principle of a photometer. After a special matt tape with a thickness of 0.1mm absorbs the oil on the human skin, it becomes a translucent tape, which is transparent. The amount will change, the more oil is absorbed, the greater the amount of light will be transmitted, so that the content of skin oil can be measured.
  • the biggest advantage is that the test probe is small in size, easy to use, and can test any position on the skin. This is an indirect measurement of oil gland secretions. The results can be used to distinguish different skin types and make it possible to accurately understand the changes in oil caused by internal and external causes.
  • test environment temperature is 22 ⁇ 1°C
  • humidity is 50 ⁇ 5%
  • real-time dynamic detection is performed
  • -Test volunteers at least 30 effective volunteers, aged between 16-65 years old (except pregnant or lactating women); no serious system disease, no immune deficiency or autoimmune disease; no previous use of skin care cosmetics Those with a history of severe allergies; those who have not used hormone drugs or immunosuppressive agents in the past month; those who have not participated in other clinical trials; those who have used the test drugs as required and the information is complete; all volunteers should fill out an informed consent form before the test.
  • Preparation before the test Do not use any products (cosmetics or topical drugs) 2-3 days before the test site. Before the test, draw three areas with a size of 3cm ⁇ 3cm on the tester’s forehead to evaluate the oil content of the skin. For each control sample, the average value of three persons was used to calculate the percentage of increase in the oil content for relevant evaluation.
  • Test process After the subject sits in a constant temperature and humidity room for 30 minutes, the oil content in the area on the forehead is measured as the initial value. Then, use the same amount of test sample and control sample in the test area of the subject, rub the same number of times, rinse and air dry, respectively determine the oil content of the three areas, test once every 20 minutes, and continue the evaluation for 100 minutes. The test of the same volunteer is completed by the same surveyor.
  • W is the rate of change of grease content, %
  • W 2 is the skin oil content of 0/20/40/60/80/100min after using the sample
  • W 1 is the skin oil content at 0 min after using the sample
  • the data in Table 4 is processed to obtain the fat content incremental trend data shown in Table 5 and the fat content change trend graph shown in FIG. 3.
  • soap-based cleansing has the best effect in removing oil.
  • soap-based cleansing has a stronger ability to remove fat, the skin will secrete in order to achieve a balance of water and oil. More oil is released, so after 60 minutes, the skin oil secretion of soap-based cleansing will increase rapidly.
  • the amino acid type cleansing face has the worst effect in removing oil.
  • the soap-ammonia type cleansing surface of the present invention has an oil-removing effect close to that of a soap-based type cleansing, and the skin area using the soap-ammonia type cleansing surface of the present invention does not appear to be secreted rapidly over time.
  • Sensory evaluation is a special type of in-vivo experiment, while cosmetic sensory evaluation is an evaluation method that verifies the skin feel of cosmetics subjectively. It mainly includes visual evaluation, olfactory evaluation and tactile evaluation, which respectively rely on vision, smell and touch to evaluate the appearance, color, smell, and skin feel of cosmetics. Sensory evaluation methods can be divided into difference test, scale test, descriptive test, preference test, etc.
  • the performance of different types of cosmetics is also different.
  • the performance evaluation of cream and lotion products mainly includes spreadability, moisturizing, oily feeling, sticky feeling, etc.
  • the performance evaluation of cleansing products and shampoo products mainly includes easy The degree of flushing, tightness, etc.
  • the present invention mainly adopts the sensory evaluation method of preference test.
  • the evaluation dimensions are mainly five factors: easy to rinse, not tight, not dry, smooth, and refreshing.
  • the sensory test was performed on the type cleansing face and the comparative example 1 amino acid type cleansing face.
  • test environment temperature is 22 ⁇ 1°C
  • humidity is 50 ⁇ 5%
  • real-time dynamic detection is performed
  • Subjects should not use any products (cosmetics or topical drugs) for the first 2-3 days. Before the test, the samples to be tested are divided into equal amounts, one for each subject.
  • Test process After the subjects sit quietly in a constant temperature and humidity room for 30 minutes, they use experimental samples and control samples according to their daily usage habits. After they are rinsed and air-dried, they fill in questionnaires for different samples.
  • the soap-based facial cleanser of Example 1 of the present invention has no difference between the refreshing feeling and easy-to-clean dimensions of the soap-based facial cleansing, but it is obvious in terms of smoothness, non-drying, and non-tightening.
  • soap-based cleansing although amino acid-based cleansing is better than soap-based cleansing in the dimension of smoothness, soap-based cleansing is better than amino acid-based cleansing in terms of refreshing, easy-to-clean, non-tightening, and non-drying.
  • the soap-ammonia type cleansing face of Example 1 of the present invention is better than soap-based cleansing face and amino acid type cleansing face in terms of feeling in use.

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Abstract

一种皂氨型洁面产品及其制备方法，该产品包括氨基酸表面活性剂、皂基表面活性剂、辅助表面活性剂、助剂和溶剂；其中，氨基酸表面活性剂选自椰油酰甘氨酸钾、椰油酰甘氨酸钠、月桂酰肌氨酸钠、椰油酰基丙氨酸TEA盐、椰油酰谷氨酸钠、月桂酰谷氨酸TEA盐、月桂酰谷氨酸钠和棕榈油酰谷氨酸钠中的至少一种；皂基表面活性剂选自椰油酸钾、月桂酸钾、肉豆蔻酸钾、棕榈酸钾和硬脂酸钾中的至少一种；辅助表面活性剂选自月桂酰两性基乙酸钠、月桂基羟基磺基甜菜碱、椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱、月桂基葡萄糖苷、癸基葡萄糖苷、椰油酰胺、十二烷基二甲基甜菜碱和棕榈仁油酰胺中的至少一种；其具有低刺激性、高效清洁力、泡沫丰富、使用感良好的特点。

Description

皂氨型洁面产品及其制备方法 技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品技术领域，特别是涉及一种皂氨型洁面产品及其制备方法。
背景技术
洁面产品，就是面部皮肤的清洁产品，其目的是清除皮肤上的污垢，使皮肤清爽，有助于保持皮肤正常生理状态。洁面产品可以去除皮肤表面附着的皮脂、角质层屑片、汗液等皮肤生理代谢产物以及灰尘、微生物、使用的化妆品残留物等。在所有的护肤品中，销量占比比较大。
根据市场上的洁面产品所使用的主要成分差异，目前主要有7种体系：乳化型洁面产品、表活型洁面产品、皂基型洁面产品、MAP(烷基磷酸酯)型洁面产品、SCI(椰油酰羟乙基磺酸钠)型洁面产品、烷基糖苷型洁面产品、氨基酸型洁面产品。其中：1)乳化型洁面产品：采用乳化体系，产品外观和普通的膏霜乳液类似，由于不含或含有少量表面活性剂，使用时基本无泡，清洁效果较差，但因采用乳化体系，含有大量油脂，因而有一定的洁肤润肤效果，洗后皮肤光滑，具有滋润感和优良的护肤功能，适合于中性皮肤使用。2)表活型洁面产品：以普通表面活性剂作为主要成分，可以做成透明或者珠光体系，外观以可流动乳状液体或膏状，清洁效果适中，泡沫丰富度一般，但可能会给消费者造成洗不干净的感觉，这是表面活性剂所固有的特性，同时此类产品还容易出现低温果冻现象，影响消费者的使用效果，此类产品适合于各种类型的皮肤使用，产品成本较低，如市场上出现的磺基琥珀酸酯二钠为主表活的洁面液属于表活型产品。3)皂基型洁面产品：采用脂肪酸皂作为产品的主要成分，产品为稠厚的膏状外观，一般珠光效果较强，产品泡沫丰富，清洁力强，适合于油性皮肤使用，缺点是使用后会有紧绷或者皮肤发干的感觉，如果消费者使用习惯此种类型的产品，会对其清洁能力产生依赖性，再使用其他类型的洁面产品会有清洁力不够的感觉。4)MAP型洁面产品：MAP型洁面外观和普通洗发水 的状态完全一致，其使用效果介于表活型洁面产品和皂基型洁面产品之间，泡沫比表活型洁面产品丰富但没皂基的多，清洁力比表活型的强但没皂基型的强，因此，该类型产品适合各种类型的皮肤使用。以MAP为主表面活性剂的洁面产品，温和性在一般表面活性剂洁面产品和皂基型洁面产品之间，既容易冲洗，脱脂力又较弱，使用性能及肤感良好。但MAP型粘度低，产品稳定性不够，增稠后又易形成剪切变稠的体系，出现果冻状。5)SCI型洁面产品：SCI型洁面产品温和洁肤，泡沫细腻丰富，独特类皂基外观，成本中等。泡沫丰富细腻，能够渗入清洁皮肤，湿洗湿冲时很滑爽，带来更舒适的使用感。6)烷基糖苷洁面产品：烷基糖苷(APG)是由天然可再生原料葡萄糖和脂肪醇反应制备的生物质表面活性剂，无任何有毒有害副产物生成，是性能较全面优良的非离子表面活性剂，兼有阴离子表面活性剂的特性。采用烷基糖苷表面活性剂作为洁面主要成分，该洁面产品的使用效果和普通表活型洁面产品相近，但性质更温和，肤感也更舒适，安全无刺激，常用作婴儿透明产品和针对过敏性皮肤。但该类型产品增稠难，泡沫也不丰富，做出的产品外观不是很漂亮，一般是类似沐浴露一样的外观。7)氨基酸型洁面产品：氨基酸型洁面产品是性质最温和的产品，此类产品特性是使用时肤感舒适，用后滋润感比较强，此类产品从状态上分有两种类型，一种是膏状的，没有黏度和拉丝感，这种产品是纯氨基酸体系的，靠氨基酸自身的特性增稠，但成本超高；一种是类似于黏稠的洗发水状态的，这种是使用一般得增稠剂来增稠，一般不能做成纯氨基酸体系的，必须复配其他表面活性剂，因此使用效果稍微差一些，成本也低些。
目前市场上的洁面产品虽然种类繁多，但是消费者对洁面产品的使用感要求也越来越高，对于具有低刺激性、高效清洁力、泡沫丰富、使用感良好的洁面产品的需求也越来越大。因此，非常有必要研究一款洁面产品，能够满足消费者对产品温和性和清洁力的需求。
发明内容
基于此，有必要提供一种皂氨型洁面产品，能够满足消费者对洁面产品具有低刺激性、高效清洁力、泡沫丰富、使用感良好的要求。
一种皂氨型洁面产品，包括氨基酸表面活性剂、皂基表面活性剂、辅助表面活性剂、助剂和溶剂；
其中，所述氨基酸表面活性剂选自椰油酰甘氨酸钾、椰油酰甘氨酸钠、月桂酰肌氨酸钠、椰油酰基丙氨酸TEA盐、椰油酰谷氨酸钠、月桂酰谷氨酸TEA盐、月桂酰谷氨酸钠和棕榈油酰谷氨酸钠中的至少一种；
所述皂基表面活性剂选自椰油酸钾、月桂酸钾、肉豆蔻酸钾、棕榈酸钾和硬脂酸钾中的至少一种；
所述辅助表面活性剂选自月桂酰两性基乙酸钠、月桂基羟基磺基甜菜碱、椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱、月桂基葡萄糖苷、癸基葡萄糖苷、椰油酰胺、十二烷基二甲基甜菜碱和棕榈仁油酰胺中的至少一种。
在其中一些实施例中，所述氨基酸表面活性剂为椰油酰甘氨酸钾和/或椰油酰甘氨酸钠；所述辅助表面活性剂选自月桂酰两性基乙酸钠、月桂基羟基磺基甜菜碱、椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱、月桂基葡萄糖苷、癸基葡萄糖苷、椰油酰胺、十二烷基二甲基甜菜碱和棕榈仁油酰胺中的至少两种。
在其中一些实施例中，所述皂氨型洁面产品包括如下重量百分比的组分：0.1％-15％氨基酸表面活性剂、0.1％-15％皂基表面活性剂、0.1％-20％辅助表面活性剂、0.5％～20％助剂和30％～99％溶剂。
在其中一些实施例中，所述助剂包括增稠剂、防腐剂和pH调节剂。
在其中一些实施例中，在所述皂氨型洁面产品中，所述增稠剂的重量百分含量为0.2％～13％，所述防腐剂的重量百分含量为0.01％～3％，所述pH调节剂的重量百分含量为0.1％～8％。
在其中一些实施例中，所述增稠剂选自丙烯酸酯类共聚物、氯化钠、羟丙基甲基纤维素和丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物的至少一种。
在其中一些实施例中，所述防腐剂选自乙内酰脲、季铵盐-15、双咪唑烷基脲、尼泊金甲酯、尼泊金乙酯、苯甲酸、苯甲酸钠、山梨酸和水杨酸中的至少一种。
在其中一些实施例中，所述皂氨型洁面产品的类型包括洁面奶、洁面乳、 洁面膏、洁面液、洁面凝胶、洁面慕斯或洁面皂。
在其中一些实施例中，所述皂氨型洁面产品包括如下重量百分比的组分：椰油酰甘氨酸钾/椰油酰甘氨酸钠0.1％～10％、椰油酸钾0.5％～8％、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠0.5％～8％、月桂基羟基磺基甜菜碱0.1％～8％、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物0.1％～5％、氯化钠0.01％～2％、羟丙基甲基纤维素0.01％～3％、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1％～5％、防腐剂0.01％～1％、pH调节剂0.1％～1％和水49％～98％。
在其中一些实施例中，所述皂氨型洁面产品包括如下重量百分比的组分：椰油酰甘氨酸钾/椰油酰甘氨酸钠1％～13％、月桂酸钾0.1％～9％、椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱0.5％～10％、月桂基葡糖苷0.1％～8％、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物0.1％～5％、氯化钠0.01％～1％、羟丙基甲基纤维素0.01％～3％、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1％～5％、防腐剂0.01％～1％、pH调节剂0.1％～1％和水44％～98％。
在其中一些实施例中，所述皂氨型洁面产品包括如下重量百分比的组分：椰油酰甘氨酸钾/椰油酰甘氨酸钠1％～15％、肉豆蔻酸钾0.5％～10％、癸基葡萄糖苷0.1％～7％、椰油酰胺1％～10％、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物0.1％～5％、氯化钠0.01％～0.5％、羟丙基甲基纤维素0.1％～3％、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1％～3％、防腐剂0.01％～0.8％、pH调节剂0.05％～3％和水43％～97％。
在其中一些实施例中，所述皂氨型洁面产品包括如下重量百分比的组分：椰油酰甘氨酸钾/椰油酰甘氨酸钠2％～12％、硬脂酸钾1.5％～15％、十二烷基二甲基甜菜碱1％～7％、棕榈仁油酰胺0.1％～5％、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物0.1％～5％、氯化钠0.01％～1％、羟丙基甲基纤维素0.01％～2％、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1％～5％、防腐剂0.01％～1％、pH调节剂0.05％～1％和水45％～95％。
在其中一些实施例中，所述皂氨型洁面产品还包括皮肤调理剂、功效成分中的至少一种。
本发明另一方面提供一种皂氨型洁面产品的制备方法，包括如下步骤：将 上述皂氨型洁面产品的各原料混合在一起。
在其中一些实施例中，所述制备方法包括如下步骤：
提供各原料；
将所述氨基酸表面活性剂、所述皂基表面活性剂、所述辅助表面活性剂混合均匀，混匀后加入所述增稠剂，加入所述pH调节剂，所述防腐剂和剩余的其他原料，混合均匀。
本发明技术方案具有如下优点：
本发明上述皂氨型洁面产品采用特定的氨基酸表面活性剂复配特定的皂基表面活性剂作为主体，并辅以温和的辅助表面活性剂，使得洁面产品起泡性好，温和、刺激性小，在保证产品清洁力的同时，大大降低了皂基表面活性剂带来的刺激性。这是由于皂基表面活性剂在使用过程中遇到硬水中的钙、镁离子生成皂沉淀，残留在皮肤上，使用感较差，并且有刺激；皂基表面活性剂与氨基酸表面活性剂复配后，在使用过程中氨基酸表面活性剂会去除残留在皮肤上的皂沉淀，提升使用感，降低刺激性；此外，皂基表面活性剂和氨基酸表面活性剂都是阴离子型表面活性剂，而辅助表面活性剂大多选择两性表面活性剂，即既有阳离子亲水基团，又有阴离子亲水基团的一类表面活性剂，两性表面活性剂单独使用时洗涤、泡沫、乳化剂润湿能力不足，但与皂基表面活性剂和氨基酸表面活性剂复配时，会对泡沫、清洁力、使用感、降低刺激性等方面有协同增效的作用。
该洁面产品使用前，在手部揉搓过程中较氨基酸洁面更容易起泡且泡沫更丰富；使用中，在脸部揉搓过程中较皂基洁面更温和，在冲水过程中较氨基酸洁面更容易冲水；使用后，较氨基酸洁面清洁力更强、肤感更清爽、控油效果更好，较皂基洁面紧绷感、干燥感、刺激性更小，满足了长期以来消费者对于洗净力强、刺激性小、用后不紧绷的洁面产品的诉求。
而且，该产品配方较传统洁面产品更为简洁，配方料体成本较低，产品稳定性好。
附图说明
图1为本发明实施例1与对比例1～2的洁面产品的发泡力的对比图；
图2为使用本发明实施例1与对比例1～2的洁面产品的皮肤水分散失增加率对比图；
图3为使用本发明实施例1与对比例1～2的洁面产品的皮肤油脂含量变化率对比图；
图4为本发明实施例1与对比例1的洁面产品的使用感对比图；
图5为本发明实施例1与对比例2的洁面产品的使用感对比图。
具体实施方式
为了便于理解本发明，下面将对本发明进行更全面的描述，并给出了本发明的较佳实施例。但是，本发明可以以许多不同的形式来实现，并不限于本文所描述的实施例。相反地，提供这些实施例的目的是使对本发明的公开内容的理解更加透彻全面。
除非另有定义，本文所使用的所有的技术和科学术语与属于本发明的技术领域的技术人员通常理解的含义相同。本文中在本发明的说明书中所使用的术语只是为了描述具体的实施例的目的，不是旨在于限制本发明。本文所使用的术语“和/或”包括一个或多个相关的所列项目的任意的和所有的组合。
本发明一实施方式提供一种皂氨型洁面产品，包括氨基酸表面活性剂、皂基表面活性剂、辅助表面活性剂、助剂和溶剂；其中，氨基酸表面活性剂选自椰油酰甘氨酸钾、椰油酰甘氨酸钠、月桂酰肌氨酸钠、椰油酰基丙氨酸TEA盐、椰油酰谷氨酸钠、月桂酰谷氨酸TEA盐、月桂酰谷氨酸钠和棕榈油酰谷氨酸钠中的至少一种；皂基表面活性剂选自椰油酸钾、月桂酸钾、肉豆蔻酸钾、棕榈酸钾和硬脂酸钾中的至少一种；辅助表面活性剂选自月桂酰两性基乙酸钠、月桂基羟基磺基甜菜碱、椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱、月桂基葡萄糖苷、癸基葡萄糖苷、椰油酰胺、十二烷基二甲基甜菜碱和棕榈仁油酰胺中的至少一种。
上述皂氨型洁面产品采用特定的氨基酸表面活性剂复配特定的皂基表面活性剂作为主体，并辅以温和的辅助表面活性剂，使得洁面产品起泡性好，温和、刺激性小，在保证产品清洁力的同时，大大降低了皂基表面活性剂带来的刺激 性。该洁面产品使用前，在手部揉搓过程中较氨基酸洁面更容易起泡且泡沫更丰富；使用中，在脸部揉搓过程中较皂基洁面更温和，在冲水过程中较氨基酸洁面更容易冲水；使用后，较氨基酸洁面清洁力更强、肤感更清爽、控油效果更好，较皂基洁面紧绷感、干燥感、刺激性更小，满足了长期以来消费者对于洗净力强、刺激性小、用后不紧绷的洁面产品的诉求。
本发明上述皂氨型洁面产品中各组分特性如下：
1)、氨基酸表面活性剂：氨基酸表面活性剂是一种温和的且可降解的阴离子表面活性剂，是具有发泡去污能力的椰子油(或者月桂油或者棕榈油)的氨基酸(比如谷氨酸、甘氨酸)盐(钠盐、钾盐、三乙醇胺盐)。氨基酸类表面活性剂的pH值为5.5～6.5，其pH值与人体肌肤接近，加上氨基酸是构成蛋白质的基本物质，所以温和无刺激。
2)、皂基表面活性剂：皂基表面活性剂是一种阴离子表面活性剂，价格便宜，HLB(亲水亲油平衡值)呈现高度亲水，洗净力和脱脂力好。
3)、辅助表面活性剂：能够增强氨基酸表面活性剂和皂基表面活性剂的去污力和泡沫稳定性，改善产品的洗涤性和调理性。比如，甜菜碱类两性表面活性剂可与阴离子型的氨基酸表面活性剂和皂基表面活性剂配合，起到提高安全性和增加黏度的辅助目的，其中十二烷基二甲基甜菜碱(BS-12)在任何pH下都能溶于水，其去污力、起泡性和渗透性都很好，抗硬水，生物降解性好，它的刺激性小，性能温和，与阴离子、阳离子和非离子表面活性剂的配伍性良好，还具有调理、抗静电、柔软和杀菌等功能。
按照亲水基的类别，氨基酸表面活性剂可以分为甘氨酸表面活性剂、肌氨酸表面活性剂、丙氨酸表面活性剂、谷氨酸表面活性剂。发明人对各类氨基酸表面活性剂的性能进行研究分析发现：从使用清爽感上，甘氨酸表面活性剂>肌氨酸表面活性剂>丙氨酸表面活性剂>谷氨酸表面活性剂；表活的pH值上，甘氨酸表面活性剂>肌氨酸表面活性剂>丙氨酸表面活性剂>谷氨酸表面活性剂。因此，在与皂基表面活性剂复配时，优先选择氨基酸表面活性剂的顺序为甘氨酸表面活性剂>肌氨酸表面活性剂>丙氨酸表面活性剂>谷氨酸表面活性剂。同时，作为表面活性剂的脂肪酸盐，虽然溶于水，但溶解性和表面活性极易受pH值、 钙镁等金属离子、温度因素的影响。在酸性条件下极易水解而失去表面活性，同时水溶性下降。因此，在选择复配氨基酸时首先选择pH比较接近碱性的甘氨酸表面活性剂和肌氨酸表面活性剂。而肌氨酸表面活性剂的温和性和冲水性较甘氨酸表面活性剂会稍微差一点，所以更优选甘氨酸表面活性剂。
在一些实施例中，氨基酸表面活性剂为椰油酰甘氨酸钾和/或椰油酰甘氨酸钠；辅助表面活性剂选自月桂酰两性基乙酸钠、月桂基羟基磺基甜菜碱、椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱、月桂基葡萄糖苷、癸基葡萄糖苷、椰油酰胺、十二烷基二甲基甜菜碱和棕榈仁油酰胺中的至少两种。
进一步地，辅助表面活性剂为月桂酰两性基乙酸钠和月桂基羟基磺基甜菜碱的组合物、椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱和月桂基葡萄糖苷的组合物、癸基葡萄糖苷和椰油酰胺的组合物，以及十二烷基二甲基甜菜碱和棕榈仁油酰胺的组合物中的一种。
在一些实施例中，皂氨型洁面产品包括如下重量百分比的组分：：0.1％-15％氨基酸表面活性剂、0.1％-15％皂基表面活性剂、0.1％-20％辅助表面活性剂、0.5％～20％助剂和30％～99％溶剂。
在一些实施例中，助剂包括增稠剂、防腐剂和pH调节剂。
进一步地，在皂氨型洁面产品中，所述增稠剂的重量百分含量为0.2％～13％，所述防腐剂的重量百分含量为0.01％～3％，所述pH调节剂的重量百分含量为0.1％～8％。
可以理解，增稠剂又称胶凝剂，可提高产品的黏度或稠度使物系保持均匀的稳定的悬浮状态或乳浊状态，或形成凝胶；同时还兼具乳化作用。防腐剂能抑制微生物活动，防止产品腐败变质，使产品有一定的保藏期。pH调节剂又称为酸度调节剂，用以维持或改变产品的酸碱度。
在一些实施例中，增稠剂选自丙烯酸酯类共聚物、氯化钠、羟丙基甲基纤维素和丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物的至少一种。
在一些实施例中，增稠剂为丙烯酸酯类共聚物、氯化钠、羟丙基甲基纤维素和丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物的组合物。如此，上述多种不同类型的增稠剂组合，能够很好地提高本发明洁面产品的黏度，同 时促进各组分的分散性，保持体系的稳定性。
在一些实施例中，防腐剂选自乙内酰脲、季铵盐-15、双咪唑烷基脲、尼泊金甲酯、尼泊金乙酯、苯甲酸、苯甲酸钠、山梨酸和水杨酸中的至少一种。较优地，防腐剂为乙内酰脲。
在一些实施例中，pH调节剂为控制产品所需pH值的酸剂、碱剂以及具有缓冲作用的盐类。在本实施例中，pH调节剂为氢氧化钾。
在一些实施例中，溶剂为水。
在一些实施例中，皂氨型洁面产品的类型包括洁面奶、洁面乳、洁面膏、洁面液、洁面凝胶、洁面慕斯或洁面皂。
在一些实施例中，皂氨型洁面产品包括如下重量百分比的组分：椰油酰甘氨酸钾/椰油酰甘氨酸钠0.1％～10％、椰油酸钾0.5％～8％、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠0.5％～8％、月桂基羟基磺基甜菜碱0.1％～8％、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物0.1％～5％、氯化钠0.01％～2％、羟丙基甲基纤维素0.01％～3％、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1％～5％、防腐剂0.01％～1％、pH调节剂0.1％～1％和水49％～98％。
进一步地，皂氨型洁面产品包括如下重量百分比的组分：椰油酰甘氨酸钾/椰油酰甘氨酸钠1％～10％、椰油酸钾2％～8％、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠2％～8％、月桂基羟基磺基甜菜碱1％～8％、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物1％～5％、氯化钠0.1％～1％、羟丙基甲基纤维素0.01％～0.5％、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物1％～5％、防腐剂0.1％～0.5％、pH调节剂0.1％～1％和水53％～90％。
在该皂氨型洁面产品中，特定的皂基表面活性剂、氨基酸表面活性剂和辅助表面活性剂的按照上述特定比例进行搭配，并配合增稠剂等，在使用过程中会起泡速度非常快，并且泡沫较大且丰富。
在一些实施例中，皂氨型洁面产品包括如下重量百分比的组分：椰油酰甘氨酸钾/椰油酰甘氨酸钠1％～13％、月桂酸钾0.1％～9％、椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱0.5％～10％、月桂基葡糖苷0.1％～8％、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物0.1％～5％、氯化钠0.01％～1％、羟丙基甲基纤维素0.01％～3％、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1％～5％、防腐剂0.01％～1％、pH调节剂0.1％～1％和水 44％～98％。
进一步地，皂氨型洁面产品包括如下重量百分比的组分：椰油酰甘氨酸钾/椰油酰甘氨酸钠5％～13％、月桂酸钾0.1％～5％、椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱2％～10％、月桂基葡糖苷3％～8％、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物0.1％～5％、氯化钠0.1％～1％、羟丙基甲基纤维素0.1％～3％、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物1％～5％、防腐剂0.1％～0.5％、pH调节剂0.1％～1％和水48.5％～88.5％。
在该皂氨型洁面产品中，适当地提高特定的氨基酸表面活性剂和辅助表面活性剂添加量，而特定的皂基表面活性剂添加量较氨基酸表面少，使得该洁面产品的刺激性非常低，同时具有较好的起泡性和清洁力。
在一些实施例中，皂氨型洁面产品包括如下重量百分比的组分：椰油酰甘氨酸钾/椰油酰甘氨酸钠1％～15％、肉豆蔻酸钾0.5％～10％、癸基葡萄糖苷0.1％～7％、椰油酰胺1％～10％、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物0.1％～5％、氯化钠0.01％～0.5％、羟丙基甲基纤维素0.1％～3％、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1％～3％、防腐剂0.01％～0.8％、pH调节剂0.05％～3％和水43％～97％。
进一步地，皂氨型洁面产品包括如下重量百分比的组分：椰油酰甘氨酸钾/椰油酰甘氨酸钠1％～5％、肉豆蔻酸钾5％～10％、癸基葡萄糖苷1％～5％、椰油酰胺1％～5％、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物0.1％～5％、氯化钠0.01％～0.5％、羟丙基甲基纤维素0.1％～3％、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.5％～3％、防腐剂0.1％～0.5％、pH调节剂0.1％～3％和水59％～91％。
在该皂氨型洁面产品中，特定的氨基酸表面活性剂和辅助表面活性剂添加量较皂基表面活性剂添加量低，产品具有良好的起泡性和清洁力，且温和刺激性小。
在一些实施例中，皂氨型洁面产品包括如下重量百分比的组分：椰油酰甘氨酸钾/椰油酰甘氨酸钠2％～12％、硬脂酸钾1.5％～15％、十二烷基二甲基甜菜碱1％～7％、棕榈仁油酰胺0.1％～5％、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物0.1％～5％、氯化钠0.01％～1％、羟丙基甲基纤维素0.01％～2％、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1％～5％、防腐剂0.01％～1％、pH调节剂0.05％～1％和 水45％～95％。
进一步地，皂氨型洁面产品包括如下重量百分比的组分：椰油酰甘氨酸钾/椰油酰甘氨酸钠2％～12％、硬脂酸钾2％～15％、十二烷基二甲基甜菜碱1％～5％、棕榈仁油酰胺1％～5％、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物1％～5％、氯化钠0.1％～1％、羟丙基甲基纤维素0.5％～2％、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物1％～5％、防腐剂0.01％～1％、pH调节剂0.05％～1％和水47％～91％。
在该皂氨型洁面产品通过各组分搭配并按照上述比例配合，产品具有良好的流动性，在使用过程中非常容易被水分散，容易起泡和冲洗。
在一些实施例中，皂氨型洁面产品还包括皮肤调理剂、功效成分中的至少一种。
通过在洁面产品中添加可接受的皮肤调理剂、功效成分，从而赋予产品特定的肤感、功效和宣称。
本发明一实施方式还提供了一种皂氨型洁面产品的制备方法，包括将上述皂氨型洁面产品的各原料混合在一起。
具体包括如下步骤S10～S50。
S10、按照配方备取各原料组分：氨酸酸表面活性剂、皂基表面活性剂、辅助表面活性剂、增稠剂、防腐剂、pH调节剂、溶剂以及其他组分如皮肤调理剂、功效成分等。
S20、将增稠剂和溶剂混合，10Hz～15Hz低速均质2分钟，再于20Hz～40Hz搅拌混合均匀，得第一混合物。
S30、往第一混合物中加入氨酸酸表面活性剂、皂基表面活性剂、辅助表面活性剂搅拌分散均匀，得第二混合物。
S40、边搅拌边往第二混合物中加入pH调节剂、防腐剂，以及皮肤调理剂、功效成分等剩余原料，持续搅拌混合均匀，然后于10Hz～15Hz低速均质2分钟。
S50、过滤出料。
上述制备方法的配方简洁，且原料易得，配方料体成本较低，所得产品稳定性好，所得产品通过采用氨基酸表面活性剂复配皂基表面活性剂作为主体，辅以辅助表面活性剂。使用前，在手部揉搓过程中较氨基酸洁面更容易起泡且 泡沫更丰富；使用中，在脸部揉搓过程中较皂基洁面更温和，在冲水过程中较氨基酸洁面更容易冲水；使用后，较氨基酸洁面清洁力更强、肤感更清爽、控油效果更好，较皂基洁面紧绷感、干燥感、刺激性更小；满足了长期以来消费者对于洗净力强、刺激性小的洁面产品的诉求。
以下为具体实施例
一、皂氨型洁面乳的制备
1、本发明实施例和对比例的皂氨型洁面乳的配方见下表1。
表1
Figure PCTCN2020132836-appb-000001
Figure PCTCN2020132836-appb-000002
2、洁面产品的具体制备工艺如下：
1)、准确称量如下原料：
A相(增稠相)：水、增稠剂(丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物、氯化钠、羟丙基甲基纤维素、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物)。
B相(表活相)：氨基酸表面活性剂、皂基表面活性剂和/或辅助表面活性剂。
C相(pH调节相)：pH调节剂(氢氧化钾)；
D相(其余相)：防腐剂(DMDM乙内酰脲)、皮肤调理剂、功效成分等。
2)、将B相加入主锅，10Hz～15Hz低速均质2min，20Hz～40Hz搅拌均 匀。
3)、边搅拌慢慢加入A相，搅拌分散均匀。
4)、边搅拌慢慢加入C相和D相，搅拌分散均匀。
5)、用滤布过滤出料。
二、性能评测
将本发明实施例1制备得到的皂氨型洁面乳与对比例1的氨基酸型洁面、对比例2的皂基型洁面进行性能对比测试。
1、起泡性能评测
1)测试原理
泡沫力的测定，采用国标GB/T13173.6-91测定方法。将样品用一定硬度的水配制成一定浓度的试验溶液。在一定温度条件下，将200mL试液从90cm高度流到刻度量筒底部50mL相同试液的表面后，测量得到的泡沫高度作为该样品的发泡力。
2)测试方法
-测试试剂：氯化钙CaCl 2；硫酸镁MgSO 4.7H 2O
-测试步骤：
-150ppm硬水配制
称取0.0999g氯化钙，0.148g硫酸镁，用蒸馏水溶解于1000mL容量瓶，并稀释至刻度，摇匀。
-试验溶液的配制
称取样品2.5g，用150ppm硬水溶解，转移至1000mL容量瓶中，并稀释至刻度，摇匀。再将溶液置于40+/-0.5℃恒温水浴中陈化，从加水溶样开始总时间30min。
-发泡力测定
在试液陈化时，即启用水泵使用循环水通过刻度管夹套，使水温稳定在40±0.5℃。刻度管内壁预先用酪酸硫酸洗液浸泡过夜，用蒸馏水冲洗至无酸。试验时先用蒸馏水冲洗刻度量管内壁，然后用试液冲洗刻度量管内壁，冲洗应完全，但在内壁不应该留有泡沫。
自刻度量管底部注入试液至50mL刻度线以上，关闭刻度量管旋塞，静止5min，调节旋塞，使液面恰好在50mL刻度处。将滴液管用抽吸法注满200mL试液，安放在刻度量管上口。开滴液管的旋塞，是溶液流下，当滴液管中的溶液流完时，立即开启秒表并读取起始泡沫高度(取泡沫边缘与顶点的平均高度)，在5min末再读取第二次读数。用新的试液重复以上试验2-3次，每次试验前必须用试液将管壁洗净。
以上规定的硬水度、试液浓度、测定温度可按产品标准的要求予以改变，但需说明。
-结果表示
样品的发泡力用起始或者5min的泡沫高度毫米表示，取至少3次误差在允许范围的结果平均值作为最后结果。多次试验结果之间的误差不超过5mm。
实验测试结果如下表2所示：
表2
Figure PCTCN2020132836-appb-000003
记下0min泡沫高度作为被测样的发泡力评价指标，起泡后5min泡沫高度作为泡沫稳定性的评价指标。对测试数据进行处理，得到如图1所示的不同类型洁面的发泡力及泡沫稳定性图。
由图1可知，皂基型洁面的发泡力最强，其次是皂氨型洁面，但是皂基型洁面泡沫稳定性较差，5min时有大量泡沫破灭；泡沫稳定性方面皂氨型洁面稳定性最好，其次是氨基酸型洁面。综上所述，本发明皂氨型洁面的发泡力较强， 泡沫稳定性最好，在发泡这个维度上整体优于皂基型洁面和氨基酸型洁面。
2、刺激性评测
1)测试原理：FICK菲克扩散定律：dm/dt＝D.A.dp/dx。通过两组温度、湿度传感器测定近表皮(约1cm内)由角质层水分散失在不同亮点形成的水蒸气压梯度，直接测出经皮散发的水分量。TEWL值是皮肤屏障好坏的一个重要标志，皮肤的TEWL值越低，说明保湿效果越好，反之越差。
2)测试方法
-测试环境：测试环境温度为22±1℃，湿度为50±5％，并且进行实时动态检测；
-测试志愿者：有效志愿者至少30人，年龄在16-65岁之间(妊娠或浦乳期妇女除外)；无严重系统疾病，无免疫缺陷或自身免疫性疾病者；既往对护肤类化妆品无严重过敏史者；近一个月内未曾使用激素类药物及免疫抑制剂者；未参加其他临床试验者；按规定使用受试药物且资料齐全；测试前所有自愿者应填写知情同意书。
-测试步骤：
测试前准备：受试部位前2-3天不能使用任何产品(化妆品或外用药品)。实验前，受试者需要同意清洁双手前臂内测，自然风干。清洁后受试者双手前臂内测做好测量区域标记。正式测试前应在符合标准房间内静坐至少30min，不能喝水，前臂暴露，呈测试状态放置，保持放松。
测试过程：实验中左右手臂内侧标记3×3cm 2试验区域，同一手臂可以标记多个区域，区域间隔1cm。测试实验样和对照均随机分布在左右手臂上。使用探头Tewameter TM300进行受试区域的皮肤水分散失量测量，取三次测试的平均值。1～3号为对比例2皂基型洁面样品，4～6号为对比例1氨基酸型洁面样品，7～9号为实施例1皂氨型洁面样品。先测量各测试区域的D0初始值(空白值)，在受试者测试区域分别使用等量的实验样品和对照样，揉搓同等圈数，待冲洗干净风干后分别针对三个区域进行水分散失测定，每周测试一次，持续测评28天。同一个志愿者的测试由同一个测量人员完成。
测试数据：按实验的设计分别测得各时间段的皮肤水分散失量，并计算各 个时间点的皮肤水分散失量的增长量。皮肤水分散失量的增加量越大，样品对皮肤屏障的破坏越大，刺激性越大。
3)、测试结果与分析：
皮肤水分散失减少率的计算公式为：W％＝(W 2-W 1)/W1*100％
注：W为皮肤水分散失减少率，％；
W 2为使用样品后皮肤水分散失值；
W 1为使用样品前皮肤水分散失值；
实验测试结果如下表3所示：
表3
Figure PCTCN2020132836-appb-000004
对上表测试数据进行处理，得到如图2所示的不同类型洁面的皮肤水分散失增加率的图。从图2可以看出，长期使用皂基型洁面皮肤水分散失量越来越大，皮肤屏障会逐渐受到破坏，因此皂基型洁面对皮肤的刺激性比较大。长期使用氨基酸型洁面，对皮肤屏障的破坏比较小，对皮肤的刺激性比较小。长期 使用皂氨型洁面，皮肤屏障受损程度相对较小，并且比较稳定，不会随着使用时间的增加而增加，因此本发明皂氨型洁面对皮肤的刺激性也相对较小与氨基酸型洁面接近。
3、清洁性能评测
1)测试原理
本发明采用德国CK的皮肤油脂测试仪Sebumeter SM815进行吸油纸使用效果的功效评定。油分测试采用的是公认的SEBUMETER法，该方法是基于光度计原理，一种0.1mm厚的特殊消光胶带吸收人体皮肤上的油脂后，就会变成一种半透明的胶带，它的透光量就会发生变化，吸收的油脂越多，透光量就会越大，这样就可以测出皮肤油脂的含量。最大的优点是测试探头体积小，使用方便，可测试皮肤的任何位置。这是一种油脂腺分泌物的间接测量法，结果可以用来区分不同的皮肤类型，使准确地了解由内部和外部原因而引起的油脂变化成为可能。
2)测试方法
-测试环境：测试环境温度为22±1℃，湿度为50±5％，并且进行实时动态检测；
-测试志愿者：有效志愿者至少30人，年龄在16-65岁之间(妊娠或哺乳期妇女除外)；无严重系统疾病，无免疫缺陷或自身免疫性疾病者；既往对护肤类化妆品无严重过敏史者；近一个月内未曾使用激素类药物及免疫抑制剂者；未参加其他临床试验者；按规定使用受试药物且资料齐全；测试前所有自愿者应填写知情同意书。
-测试步骤：
测试前准备：受试部位前2-3天不能使用任何产品(化妆品或外用药品)。在测试前，分别在测试者额头画出3个尺寸为3cm×3cm区域，进行皮肤油脂含量评测，每个对照样取三人平均值计算油脂含量增量百分比进行相关评判。
测试过程：受试者在恒温恒湿室内静坐30分钟后，测定其额头所划区域油脂含量作为初始值。然后，在受试者测试区域分别使用等量的实验样品和对照 样，揉搓同等圈数，待冲洗干净风干后分别针对三个区域进行油脂含量测定，每20min测试一次，持续测评100min。同一个志愿者的测试由同一个测量人员完成。
3)测试结果与分析
油脂含量变化率的计算公式为：W％＝(W 2-W 1)/W 1×100％
注：W为油脂含量变化率，％；
W 2为使用样品后0/20/40/60/80/100min皮肤油脂含量；
W 1为使用样品后0min皮肤油脂含量；
实验测试结果如下表4所示：
表4
Figure PCTCN2020132836-appb-000005
Figure PCTCN2020132836-appb-000006
对表4的数据进行处理，得到表5所示的油脂含量增量趋势数据和如图3所示的油脂含量变化趋势图。
表5
Figure PCTCN2020132836-appb-000007
由上表4～5和图3可以看出，皂基型洁面对油脂的清除效果最佳，随着时间的增长，由于皂基型洁面清脂能力较强，肌肤为了达到水油平衡会分泌出更多的油脂，所以在60min后使用皂基型洁面的肌肤油脂分泌会急速增多。氨基酸型洁面对油脂的清除效果最差。本发明皂氨型洁面对油脂的清除效果接近皂基型洁面，并且使用本发明皂氨型洁面的肌肤区域，随着时间增长并没有出现油脂急速分泌的情况。
4、使用感评测
1)测试原理
利用化妆品感官评价法。感官评价是一类特殊的在体实验，而化妆品感官评价是对化妆品的使用肤感等主观进行验证的评价方法。主要包括视觉评价、嗅觉评价和触觉评价，分别是依靠视觉、嗅觉和触觉对化妆品外观形态、色彩、 气味、使用肤感等作出评价。感官评价方法可分为差别检验、标度检验、描述性检验、偏好测试等。不同种类化妆品种的性能也各不相同，如膏霜乳液类产品的性能评价主要包括铺展性、滋润性、油润感、黏腻感等，洁肤用品及洗发用品的性能评价主要包括易冲洗程度、紧绷感等。本发明主要采用偏好测试的感官评价方法，评价的维度主要为易冲洗、不紧绷、不干燥、柔滑感、清爽感等5个，将实施例1皂氨型洁面分别与对比例2皂基型洁面和对比例1氨基酸型洁面进行对比感官测试。
2)测试方法
-测试环境：测试环境温度为22±1℃，湿度为50±5％，并且进行实时动态检测；
-测试志愿者：年龄在16-65岁之间(妊娠或哺乳期妇女除外)；无严重系统疾病，无免疫缺陷或自身免疫性疾病者；既往对护肤类化妆品无严重过敏史者；近一个月内未曾使用激素类药物及免疫抑制剂者；未参加其他临床试验者；按规定使用受试药物且资料齐全；测试前所有自愿者应填写知情同意书。
-测试步骤：
测试前准备：受试者前2-3天不能使用任何产品(化妆品或外用药品)。在测试前，等量分装所需要测试的样品，每位受试者一份。
测试过程：受试在恒温恒湿室内静坐30分钟后，按照日常使用习惯，使用实验样品和对照样品，待冲洗干净风干后分别针对不同的样品进行问卷填写。
3)测试结果与分析
根据消费者的感官评价结果，分析评价样品的使用感，得到如下表6所示的测试数据，如图4所示的本发明实施例1皂氨型洁面与对比例2皂基型洁面使用感对比测试图以及如图5所示的本发明实施例1皂氨型洁面与对比例1氨基酸型洁面使用感对比测试图。
表6
Figure PCTCN2020132836-appb-000008
Figure PCTCN2020132836-appb-000009
由表6和图4～图5可知，本发明实施例1皂氨型洁面在清爽感和易清洗维度上和皂基型洁面没有差别，但在柔滑感、不干燥、不紧绷等维度明显优于皂基型洁面；虽然氨基酸型洁面在柔滑感这个维度上优于皂氨型洁面，但在清爽感、易清洗、不紧绷、不干燥等维度皂氨型洁面均优于氨基酸型洁面。综上，本发明实施例1皂氨型洁面在使用感上整体优于皂基型洁面和氨基酸型洁面。
发明人对实施例2～7的皂氨型洁面的各性能进行测试，发现实施例2～7均具有良好地起泡性能、刺激性、清洁性和使用感。
以上所述实施例的各技术特征可以进行任意的组合，为使描述简洁，未对上述实施例中的各个技术特征所有可能的组合都进行描述，然而，只要这些技术特征的组合不存在矛盾，都应当认为是本说明书记载的范围。
以上所述实施例仅表达了本发明的几种实施方式，其描述较为具体和详细，但并不能因此而理解为对发明专利范围的限制。应当指出的是，对于本领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明构思的前提下，还可以做出若干变形和改进，这些都属于本发明的保护范围。因此，本发明专利的保护范围应以所附权利要求为准。

Claims (14)

  1. 一种皂氨型洁面产品，其特征在于，包括氨基酸表面活性剂、皂基表面活性剂、辅助表面活性剂、助剂和溶剂；
    其中，所述氨基酸表面活性剂选自椰油酰甘氨酸钾、椰油酰甘氨酸钠、月桂酰肌氨酸钠、椰油酰基丙氨酸TEA盐、椰油酰谷氨酸钠、月桂酰谷氨酸TEA盐、月桂酰谷氨酸钠和棕榈油酰谷氨酸钠中的至少一种；
    所述皂基表面活性剂选自椰油酸钾、月桂酸钾、肉豆蔻酸钾、棕榈酸钾和硬脂酸钾中的至少一种；
    所述辅助表面活性剂选自月桂酰两性基乙酸钠、月桂基羟基磺基甜菜碱、椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱、月桂基葡萄糖苷、癸基葡萄糖苷、椰油酰胺、十二烷基二甲基甜菜碱和棕榈仁油酰胺中的至少一种。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的皂氨型洁面产品，其特征在于，所述氨基酸表面活性剂为椰油酰甘氨酸钾和/或椰油酰甘氨酸钠；所述辅助表面活性剂选自月桂酰两性基乙酸钠、月桂基羟基磺基甜菜碱、椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱、月桂基葡萄糖苷、癸基葡萄糖苷、椰油酰胺、十二烷基二甲基甜菜碱和棕榈仁油酰胺中的至少两种。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的皂氨型洁面产品，其特征在于，所述皂氨型洁面产品包括如下重量百分比的组分：0.1％-15％氨基酸表面活性剂、0.1％-15％皂基表面活性剂、0.1％-20％辅助表面活性剂、0.5％～20％助剂和30％～99％溶剂。
  4. 根据权利要求1所述的皂氨型洁面产品，其特征在于，所述助剂包括增稠剂、防腐剂和pH调节剂。
  5. 根据权利要求4所述的皂氨型洁面产品，其特征在于，在所述皂氨型洁面产品中，所述增稠剂的重量百分含量为0.2％～13％，所述防腐剂的重量百分含量为0.01％～3％，所述pH调节剂的重量百分含量为0.1％～8％。
  6. 根据权利要求4所述的皂氨型洁面产品，其特征在于，所述增稠剂选自丙烯酸酯类共聚物、氯化钠、羟丙基甲基纤维素和丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物的至少一种。
  7. 根据权利要求4所述的皂氨型洁面产品，其特征在于，所述防腐剂选自乙内酰脲、季铵盐-15、双咪唑烷基脲、尼泊金甲酯、尼泊金乙酯、苯甲酸、苯甲 酸钠、山梨酸和水杨酸中的至少一种。
  8. 根据权利要求1所述的皂氨型洁面产品，其特征在于，所述皂氨型洁面产品的类型包括洁面奶、洁面乳、洁面膏、洁面液、洁面凝胶/啫喱、洁面慕斯/泡沫或洁面皂。
  9. 根据权利要求1所述的皂氨型洁面产品，其特征在于，所述皂氨型洁面产品包括如下重量百分比的组分：椰油酰甘氨酸钾/椰油酰甘氨酸钠0.1％～10％、椰油酸钾0.5％～8％、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠0.5％～8％、月桂基羟基磺基甜菜碱0.1％～8％、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物0.1％～5％、氯化钠0.01％～2％、羟丙基甲基纤维素0.01％～3％、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1％～5％、防腐剂0.01％～1％、pH调节剂0.1％～1％和水49％～98％。
  10. 根据权利要求1所述的皂氨型洁面产品，其特征在于，所述皂氨型洁面产品包括如下重量百分比的组分：椰油酰甘氨酸钾/椰油酰甘氨酸钠1％～13％、月桂酸钾0.1％～9％、椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱0.5％～10％、月桂基葡糖苷0.1％～8％、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物0.1％～5％、氯化钠0.01％～1％、羟丙基甲基纤维素0.01％～3％、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1％～5％、防腐剂0.01％～1％、pH调节剂0.1％～1％和水44％～98％。
  11. 根据权利要求1所述的皂氨型洁面产品，其特征在于，所述皂氨型洁面产品包括如下重量百分比的组分：椰油酰甘氨酸钾/椰油酰甘氨酸钠1％～15％、肉豆蔻酸钾0.5％～10％、癸基葡萄糖苷0.1％～7％、椰油酰胺1％～10％、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物0.1％～5％、氯化钠0.01％～0.5％、羟丙基甲基纤维素0.1％～3％、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1％～3％、防腐剂0.01％～0.8％、pH调节剂0.05％～3％和水43％～97％。
  12. 根据权利要求1所述的皂氨型洁面产品，其特征在于，所述皂氨型洁面产品包括如下重量百分比的组分：椰油酰甘氨酸钾/椰油酰甘氨酸钠2％～12％、硬脂酸钾1.5％～15％、十二烷基二甲基甜菜碱1％～7％、棕榈仁油酰胺0.1％～5％、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物0.1％～5％、氯化钠0.01％～1％、羟丙基甲基纤维素0.01％～2％、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.1％～5％、防腐剂0.01％～1％、pH调节剂0.05％～1％和水45％～95％。
  13. 一种皂氨型洁面产品的制备方法，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：将权利要求1～12任一项所述皂氨型洁面产品的各原料混合在一起。
  14. 根据权利要求13所述的制备方法，其特征在于，所述制备方法包括如下步骤：
    提供各原料；
    将所述氨基酸表面活性剂、所述皂基表面活性剂、所述辅助表面活性剂混合均匀，混匀后加入所述增稠剂，加入所述pH调节剂，所述防腐剂和剩余的其他原料，混合均匀。
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TW202200111A (zh) 2022-01-01

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