WO2021097886A1 - Polyester imitation cotton yarn-dyed fabric, and manufacturing method and use therefor - Google Patents

Polyester imitation cotton yarn-dyed fabric, and manufacturing method and use therefor Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2021097886A1
WO2021097886A1 PCT/CN2019/121549 CN2019121549W WO2021097886A1 WO 2021097886 A1 WO2021097886 A1 WO 2021097886A1 CN 2019121549 W CN2019121549 W CN 2019121549W WO 2021097886 A1 WO2021097886 A1 WO 2021097886A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
dyed fabric
polyester
desizing
dyed
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2019/121549
Other languages
French (fr)
Chinese (zh)
Inventor
刘子斌
刘德铭
沈乾峰
王家宾
路静静
邢成利
李文豪
Original Assignee
鲁泰纺织股份有限公司
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 filed Critical 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司
Priority to JP2021547695A priority Critical patent/JP7433332B2/en
Priority to US17/432,464 priority patent/US20220275576A1/en
Publication of WO2021097886A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021097886A1/en

Links

Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06LDRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L1/00Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
    • D06L1/12Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using aqueous solvents
    • D06L1/14De-sizing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/10Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/184Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D06M13/188Monocarboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/263Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated carboxylic acids; Salts or esters thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/16General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/34Material containing ester groups
    • D06P3/52Polyesters
    • D06P3/54Polyesters using dispersed dyestuffs
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02Setting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/32Polyesters
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/38Polyurethanes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/40Reduced friction resistance, lubricant properties; Sizing compositions
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/14Dyeability

Definitions

  • the application relates to a polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric, and a manufacturing method and application thereof, belonging to the technical field of textiles.
  • Yarn-dyed weaving is a process of weaving yarn or filaments after dyeing. It is divided into full-dyed weaving and half-dyed weaving. It refers to the process of dyeing yarn or filament first, and then weaving with dyed yarn. Method, this kind of fabric is called "dyed fabric”. Yarn-dyed fabrics are dyed with yarn first, then weaves, and finally finished; piece dyeing is to put the original color grey fabric into the dyeing vat for jig dyeing (or long-car pad dyeing), and then finishing. Woven cotton-like polyester is relatively mature in piece dyeing, and there is no precedent in yarn-dyed weaving.
  • Woven polyester yarn-dyed fabrics are divided into warp twisting and warp sizing from the weaving process. Both warp twisting and sizing are to solve weaving problems. The quality of untwisted and unsizing weaving is unqualified and there is no output.
  • the existing twisted yarn-dyed fabric can be directly shaped, but after the polyester is twisted, the hand feel is rough and hard, and there is no cotton feeling. After sizing, desizing is required.
  • the poor color fastness of polyester colored yarn is a world-class problem.
  • the main difficulty of sizing and desizing polyester colored yarn is the completeness of desizing and the protection of color.
  • the existing desizing process is open-width washing. Desizing is a protective desizing, and the desizing is endless, so the yarn-dyed fabric surface does not feel cottony. There has been no good plan for the desizing process on yarn-dyed fabrics. How to completely remove the size of the yarn-dyed fabric, have a cottony feel, and protect the accuracy and vividness of the color at the same time is
  • a polyester imitation cotton yarn-dyed fabric and its manufacturing method and application are provided.
  • the polyester imitation cotton yarn-dyed fabric has good cotton feel, high elasticity, high color fastness and low ironing shrinkage.
  • the yarn-dyed fabric is suitable for the production of high-quality clothing, especially for the production of shirts.
  • the manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabric saves energy and reduces emissions, and a new type of polyester yarn-dyed fabric with low ironing shrinkage, high color fastness and cotton-like hand feeling is prepared.
  • the yarn-dyed fabric is used in the production of clothing such as shirts to increase its selectivity and functionality.
  • a yarn-dyed fabric which has good cotton feel, high elasticity, high color fastness and low ironing shrinkage.
  • the yarn-dyed fabric is formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns, and is characterized in that the warp yarns are core-spun yarns with dyed polyester as the covering layer and low-temperature spandex as the core yarn, and the weight ratio of the polyester and the low-temperature spandex is 4-49:1, the polyester fiber forms an eroded surface through alkali reduction treatment.
  • the weight ratio of the polyester to the low-temperature spandex is 10-30:1.
  • the weight ratio of the polyester to the low-temperature spandex is 10-15:1. More preferably, the weight ratio of the polyester to the low-temperature spandex is 13-14:1.
  • the fineness of the low-temperature spandex is 20D-40D
  • the core-spun yarn is made by a polyester and low-temperature spandex machine-packing process
  • the twist is 5-8 twists/cm
  • the raft ratio is 2.5-3.5.
  • the upper limit of the fineness range of the low temperature spandex is selected from 25D, 30D or 35D
  • the lower limit is selected from 25D, 30D or 35D.
  • the twist is 5-6 twists/cm
  • the rabbi is 3.
  • Low-temperature spandex with a twist lower than 5 twists/cm will affect the yarn-dyed fabric surface, and the yarn-dyed fabric surface with a twist higher than 8 twists/cm will increase the roughness and feel unqualified.
  • the low-temperature spandex is dyed or undyed, and the dye used when the low-temperature spandex is dyed is a high-temperature, water-washable and alkali-resistant disperse dye.
  • low-temperature spandex to reduce the temperature required for styling and control the ironing shrinkage.
  • the use of low-temperature spandex can reduce the temperature and time of setting, control the sublimation of disperse dyes of colored yarns, improve the color fastness of yarn-dyed fabrics, and save energy and reduce emissions.
  • the reduction rate of the polyester fiber through alkali reduction treatment is not higher than 5%.
  • the reduction rate of the polyester fiber through alkali reduction treatment is 1%-3%.
  • the polyester is selected from at least one of polyester filaments, polyester composite fibers and polyester staple fibers.
  • the polyester filament is selected from at least one of stretch textured yarn DTY, fully drawn yarn FDY, air textured yarn ATY and high elastic yarn;
  • the polyester composite fiber includes elastic composite polyester fiber T400, and Polyester staple fibers include cotton-like polyester.
  • the polyester is a polyester with an F number of not less than 24. Further, the polyester is a high F-number matting polyester DTY.
  • the yarn-dyed fabric produced by this polyester setting method has a strong cotton feel.
  • the weft yarn is selected from at least one of polyester, spandex, cotton yarn and the same composition as the warp yarn. More preferably, the weft yarn is selected from the same composition as the warp yarn, polyester DTY, FDY, ATY, high elastic yarn, T400, and other cotton-like polyester. Further, the weft yarn includes 75D/72F matte polyester DTY.
  • the dye used for dyeing the polyester is a high-temperature, water-washable and alkali-resistant disperse dye, and the dyeing temperature of the dye is 130 ⁇ 5°C. More preferably, the dye includes DyStar's high-temperature, water-washable and alkali-resistant disperse dyes.
  • the dyeing time of polyester is 30-60min. The setting of the dyeing time makes the polyester fully open and open the fiber network points of the polyester.
  • the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric measured according to GB/T3920-2008 is not lower than Grade 4.
  • the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric according to GB/T3920-2008 is not lower than Grade 5.
  • the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric measured according to GB/T 5718-1997 "Textile color fastness test to dry heat (except hot pressing) color fastness” is not lower than level 4.
  • the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric measured according to GB/T 5718-1997 "Textile color fastness test to dry heat (except hot pressing) color fastness” is not lower than grade 5.
  • the ironing shrinkage rate of the yarn-dyed fabric treated for 6 times at 170°C and 15s is not higher than 3%.
  • the ironing shrinkage rate control fully ensures the comfort of the elastic fabric, and the low temperature spandex helps to control the elasticity The ironing shrinkage of the fabric.
  • a manufacturing method of any one of the above-mentioned polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabrics saves energy and reduces emissions, and has low ironing shrinkage and high color
  • a new polyester yarn-dyed fabric with cotton-like fastness and feel is provided.
  • the manufacturing method of the polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric includes the following steps:
  • the first desizing the coarse yarn-dyed fabric undergoes continuous desizing in the desizing mixture I.
  • the temperature of the first desizing is 91-91.5°C and the time is not more than 20min.
  • the desizing mixture I includes 2-3wt% strong Alkali and 2-3wt% desizing agent;
  • Predetermined type the temperature of predetermined type is 180-200°C;
  • Desizing is carried out by batch desizing mixture II, the temperature of the second desizing is 60-90°C and the time is not more than 45min, the desizing mixture II includes 2-5wt% strong alkali and 2 -5wt% insurance powder;
  • the warp yarn includes a core-spun yarn with dyed polyester yarn as the covering layer and low-temperature spandex as the core yarn; and the sizing sizing agent includes acrylic sizing agent.
  • the dye used in the dyed polyester is a high-temperature, water-washable and alkali-resistant disperse dye.
  • the dyeing temperature is 130 ⁇ 5°C.
  • the dyeing time of polyester is 30-60min. The setting of the dyeing time makes the polyester fully open and open the fiber network points of the polyester.
  • the fineness of the low-temperature spandex is 20D-40D
  • the core-spun yarn is made of polyester and low-temperature spandex machine-packing process, with a twist of 5-8 twists/cm, and a raster ratio of 2.5-3.5. More preferably, the twist is 5-6 twists/cm, and the rabbi is 3.
  • the sizing temperature is 130 ⁇ 5°C, and the sizing temperature is low-temperature sizing. More preferably, the concentration of the slurry is 10-15 wt%, and the vehicle speed of the sizing is 40-50 m/min. Further preferably, the concentration of the slurry is 12 wt%, and the vehicle speed of the sizing is 45 m/min. The slurry concentration is low, which can be used for high-quality weaving and convenient for finishing and desizing.
  • the sizing process is the warping of the slitting machine to make the weaving shaft, and the weaving shaft is reversed to sizing. The sizing process saves time and reduces errors.
  • the loom used for weaving is a water jet loom.
  • Chemical fiber products use water jet looms, which have less electrostatic influence than air jet looms. Water also has a certain swelling effect on the slurry, and some of the slurry will fall off early during the weaving process.
  • the continuous desizing is desizing using a long-car desizing machine
  • the first desizing temperature is set to 91° C.
  • the desizing vehicle speed is 40-50 m/min
  • the first desizing time is not more than 15 minutes.
  • the first desizing temperature is lower than 91°C
  • the desizing rate is low, and it will stain obvious when it is higher than 91.5°C.
  • the first desizing can remove most of the size, realize the pre-shrinkage of the yarn-dyed fabric, and make the color Color preservation of woven fabric.
  • the predetermined vehicle speed is 30-40 m/min.
  • the pre-sizing it has the function of preshrinking. After the first desizing, the pre-sizing is performed to make the fabric have shape retention.
  • the intermittent desizing is in-tank water washing.
  • the temperature of the second desizing is 70° C. and the time is not more than 15 minutes, and the desizing mixture II includes 4 to 5 wt% of strong alkali and 4 to 5 wt% of sodium hydroxide.
  • the desizing mixture II also includes 0.5-2g/L degreasing agent.
  • the second desizing step includes washing the desizing mixture II and the yarn-dyed fabric with water once, adding 0.5-2 g/L of hydrophilic softener, washing once with water, and draining water twice or until the draining water is clean.
  • the second desizing can reduce and wash the yarn-dyed fabric with water, which can completely remove the size of the yarn-dyed fabric, and also performs alkali reduction corrosion on the polyester in the yarn-dyed fabric to improve the cotton feel.
  • the shaped vehicle speed is 30-50m/min.
  • the final setting is to further shape the yarn-dyed fabric.
  • the setting temperature of the finalizing is 100-140°C, which is a low-temperature setting, which is beneficial to control the color retention, ironing rate and feel of the yarn-dyed fabric.
  • the strong base is selected from at least one of potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide and sodium carbonate.
  • the strong base is sodium hydroxide.
  • a predetermined type auxiliary agent I is added to the predetermined type, and the predetermined type auxiliary agent I includes a dry hand feeling auxiliary agent and acetic acid.
  • the dry feel assistant includes an antibacterial assistant.
  • the antibacterial auxiliary agent is a zinc ion antibacterial agent.
  • the predetermined auxiliary agent I includes 2wt ⁇ zinc ion antibacterial agent and 4wt ⁇ acetic acid. Acetic acid can neutralize part of the residual lye from desizing. Chemical fiber shirt fabrics need moisture absorption and sweat wicking function. During the process of perspiration, there will be a large amount of human metabolic waste remaining in the fabric. Microorganisms and bacteria are easy to breed.
  • a styling auxiliary agent II is added in the styling, and the styling auxiliary agent II includes a smooth hand feeling auxiliary agent.
  • the slippery feel aid includes a moisture absorbing and perspiration agent and/or a softening agent.
  • the smooth hand feeling aid includes 3% by weight moisture absorption and perspiration agent and 3% softener, and the styling aid II also includes an antibacterial agent at a concentration of 2% by weight.
  • the styling aid II can make the yarn-dyed fabric maintain cotton-like feel and functionality.
  • a garment is provided, and the yarn-dyed fabric is used in the production of garments such as shirts to increase its selectivity and functionality.
  • the garment is made of a yarn-dyed fabric, and the yarn-dyed fabric is selected from at least one of the yarn-dyed fabrics described above and the yarn-dyed fabrics manufactured by any of the methods described above.
  • the color fastness to soaping determined by the D(4) method in the GB/T3920-2008 "Textile color fastness test to soaping color fastness” is the same as GB/T3920-2008 “Textile color fastness to soaping”.
  • Test color fastness to rubbing Color fastness to rubbing measured.
  • the polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric according to this application has good cotton feel, high elasticity, high color fastness and low ironing shrinkage.
  • the yarn-dyed fabric is suitable for the production of high-quality clothing, especially for the production of shirts .
  • the yarn-dyed fabric is used in the production of clothing such as shirts to increase its selectivity and functionality.
  • Color fastness to soaping Refer to method D(4) in GB/T3920-2008 "Textile color fastness test color fastness to soaping".
  • Color fastness to rubbing Refer to GB/T3920-2008 "Textile color fastness test for rubbing color fastness”.
  • Color fastness to sublimation Refer to GB/T 5718-1997 "Textile color fastness test for color fastness to dry heat (except hot pressing)" to determine.
  • Ironing shrinkage Yarn-dyed fabrics are tested for ironing shrinkage at 170°C and 15s for 6 times.
  • the manufacturing method of polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric includes the following steps:
  • the warp yarn comprising: a core-spun yarn with dyed polyester yarn as the covering layer and low-temperature spandex as the core yarn, and the sizing slurry includes Acrylic slurry;
  • the first desizing the coarse yarn-dyed fabric undergoes continuous desizing in the desizing mixture I.
  • the temperature of the first desizing is 91-91.5°C and the time is not more than 20min.
  • the desizing mixture I includes 2-3wt% strong Alkali and 2-3wt% desizing agent;
  • Predetermined type the temperature of predetermined type is 180-200°C;
  • Desizing is carried out by batch desizing mixture II, the temperature of the second desizing is 60-90°C and the time is not more than 45min, the desizing mixture II includes 2-5wt% strong alkali and 2 -5wt% insurance powder;
  • polyester and low-temperature spandex with a weight ratio of 13.5:1, polyester is 75D/72F matte polyester DTY, and low-temperature spandex is a new type of low-temperature spandex with 30D fineness;
  • DyStar's high-temperature, water-resistant and alkali-resistant disperse dyes are used to dye polyester at 130°C, and the dyeing time for polyester is 40min;
  • Warp yarn sizing use acrylic sizing agent with a slurry concentration of 12wt%, sizing the core-spun yarn at 130°C, making weaving shafts for warping by the slitting machine, and sizing the weaving shafts in reverse shaft sizing.
  • the sizing speed is 45 meters/minute;
  • the first desizing the coarse yarn-dyed fabric goes through the desizing mixture I continuous desizing (long car desizing), the temperature is 91-91.5°C and the time is not more than 20min, the vehicle speed is 45 m/min, the desizing mixture I Including 2-3wt% strong alkali and 2-3wt% desizing agent, the desizing agent can be desizing enzyme;
  • Predetermined temperature is 190°C, vehicle speed is 35m/min; the first pass of the antibacterial agent with a concentration of about 2wt ⁇ , increase the concentration of about 4wt ⁇ of acetic acid to neutralize the desizing residual lye;
  • the second desizing through the desizing mixture II intermittent desizing (washing in the tank), the second desizing temperature is 60-90°C and the time is not more than 45min, the desizing mixture II includes 2g/L hydrogen Sodium oxide, 2g/L sodium silicate and 1g/L degreaser, wash once with water, add 1g/L softener, wash once with water, bleed 2 times or until the bleed is clean;
  • the shaping temperature is 140°C
  • the vehicle speed is 35 m/min
  • 2wt ⁇ concentration of antibacterial agent 3% concentration of moisture wicking and 3% concentration of softener are added to obtain yarn-dyed fabric 1#.
  • Yarn-dyed fabrics 2# and 3# were manufactured according to the method of Example 1. The difference from Example 1 is that the weight ratio of polyester and low-temperature spandex used in the warp yarns is 3 and 52 to make yarn-dyed fabrics 2# and 3#, respectively.
  • the yarn-dyed fabric 2# has very poor elasticity and strength; the yarn-dyed fabric 3# has a hard hand feel, poor moisture absorption, and poor cotton feel.
  • Yarn-dyed fabrics 4# and 5# were manufactured according to the method of Example 1. The difference from Example 1 is that the low-temperature spandex used in the warp has a twist of 4 twists/cm and 9 twists/cm. Yarn-dyed fabrics 4# were prepared respectively. , 5#, yarn-dyed fabric 4# will have parts where low-temperature spandex leaks, and yarn-dyed fabric 5# has a poor feel.
  • Yarn-dyed fabric 6# was manufactured according to the method of Example 1. The difference from Example 1 is that:
  • the spandex used in step B is normal temperature spandex, the dyeing temperature is 150° C., and the dyeing time is 20 minutes, to obtain yarn-dyed fabric 6#.
  • Yarn-dyed fabrics 7# and 8# were manufactured according to the method of Example 1. The difference from Example 1 is that:
  • Step 2) The desizing temperature in the first desizing is 92.5°C and 90.5°C to prepare yarn-dyed fabrics 7# and 8#, respectively.
  • Yarn-dyed fabric 7# performance test the fabric is stained and the quality is unqualified.
  • Yarn-dyed fabric 8# performance test The cotton feel is poor, and the desizing is not clean.
  • Yarn-dyed fabric 9# was manufactured according to the method of Example 1. The difference from Example 1 is that:
  • step 2) no antibacterial auxiliary agent is added, and 4wt ⁇ of antibacterial agent is added in step 5) to make a yarn-dyed fabric 9#.
  • the desizing temperature is 92.5°C and 90.5°C respectively to make yarn-dyed fabrics 7# and 8#.
  • Yarn-dyed fabric 9# performance test color fastness to soaping level 5, color fastness to rubbing level 5, color fastness to sublimation level 5; ironing shrinkage rate is not higher than 1%; cotton feel relative to yarn-dyed fabric 1# Poor dryness.
  • Yarn-dyed fabric 10# was manufactured according to the method of Example 1. The difference from Example 1 is that:
  • Step 2) First desizing:
  • the desizing mixture I includes 4wt% strong alkali and 2-3wt% desizing agent.
  • Step 4) The second desizing: the desizing mixture II is used for intermittent desizing (washing in the tank), the temperature of the second desizing is 60-90°C and the time is not more than 45min, and the desizing mixture II includes 6g/L Sodium hydroxide, 2g/L sodium hydroxide and 1g/L degreaser, wash once with water, add 1g/L softener, wash once with water, and drain water twice or until the water is clean.
  • Yarn-dyed fabric 10# performance test soaping color fastness level 3, rubbing color fastness level 3, sublimation color fastness level 3; ironing shrinkage rate is higher than 5%; good cotton feel.
  • the yarn-dyed fabric 11# was manufactured according to the method of Example 1. The difference from Example 1 is that steps 4) and 5) are not performed.
  • Yarn-dyed fabric 11# performance test color fastness to soaping 4, color fastness to rubbing 4, color fastness to sublimation 4; ironing shrinkage rate is higher than 5%; cotton feel is poor.
  • the yarn-dyed fabric 12# was manufactured according to the method of Example 1. The difference from Example 1 is that step 2) is not performed.
  • Yarn-dyed fabric 12# performance test soaping fastness level 3, rubbing fastness level 3, sublimation fastness level 3; ironing shrinkage rate is higher than 6%; cotton feel is poor.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)

Abstract

A polyester imitation cotton yarn-dyed fabric, and a manufacturing method and use therefor, pertaining to the technical field of textiles. The polyester imitation cotton yarn-dyed fabric is comprised of interwoven warp yarns and weft yarns. The warp yarn is core spun yarn in which dyed polyester is used as a cladding layer and low-temperature spandex is used as core yarn, the weight ratio of the polyester and the low-temperature spandex is 4-49:1, and the polyester forms a corroded surface by means of alkali weight reduction processing. The polyester imitation cotton yarn-dyed fabric has a good cotton feel, high elasticity, high color fastness and a low degree of ironing-induced shrinkage. The yarn-dyed fabric can be used in the manufacture of high-quality garments, especially in the manufacture of shirts. The manufacturing method for the yarn-dyed fabric conserves energy and reduces emissions, and produces a novel polyester yarn-dyed fabric having a low degree of ironing-induced shrinkage, high color fastness, and a feel that imitates that of cotton. The yarn-dyed fabric can be used in the manufacture of clothing such as shirts in order to increase the selectivity and functionality thereof.

Description

一种涤纶仿棉色织面料、及其制造方法和应用Polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric, and manufacturing method and application thereof
本申请要求于2019年11月20日提交中国专利局、申请号为201911140910.9、发明名称为“一种涤纶仿棉色织面料、及其制造方法和应用”的中国专利申请的优先权,其全部内容通过引用结合在本申请中。This application claims the priority of the Chinese patent application filed with the Chinese Patent Office on November 20, 2019, the application number is 201911140910.9, and the invention title is "a polyester imitation cotton yarn-dyed fabric, and its manufacturing method and application". All of them The content is incorporated in this application by reference.
技术领域Technical field
本申请涉及一种涤纶仿棉色织面料、及其制造方法和应用,属于纺织技术领域。The application relates to a polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric, and a manufacturing method and application thereof, belonging to the technical field of textiles.
背景技术Background technique
色织是将纱线或长丝经染色后进行织布的工艺方法,有全色织和半色织之分,是指先将纱线或长丝经过染色,然后使用色纱进行织布的工艺方法,这种面料称为“色织布”。色织布是先染纱线,再织布,最后去后整理;匹染是将原色坯布,投入染缸卷染(或长车轧染),再后整理。梭织仿棉涤纶在匹染上运用比较成熟,在色织上还未见到先例。Yarn-dyed weaving is a process of weaving yarn or filaments after dyeing. It is divided into full-dyed weaving and half-dyed weaving. It refers to the process of dyeing yarn or filament first, and then weaving with dyed yarn. Method, this kind of fabric is called "dyed fabric". Yarn-dyed fabrics are dyed with yarn first, then weaves, and finally finished; piece dyeing is to put the original color grey fabric into the dyeing vat for jig dyeing (or long-car pad dyeing), and then finishing. Woven cotton-like polyester is relatively mature in piece dyeing, and there is no precedent in yarn-dyed weaving.
梭织涤纶色织布从织造工艺上分经加捻和经上浆,经加捻和上浆都是为了解决织造问题,不加捻、不上浆织造质量不合格,也没有产量。现有的经加捻的色织直接定型即可,但是涤纶加捻之后手感表现为糙和硬,没有棉感。经上浆需要退浆,涤纶色纱的色牢度不佳是世界级难题,涤纶色纱上浆再退浆主要难点在于退浆的完整程度和颜色的保护,现有的退浆工艺如平幅水洗退浆属于保护性退浆,退浆不尽,所以色织布面也没有棉感,色织布上、退浆工艺一直没有很好的方案。色织布如何完全去除浆料、具有棉感和同时保护颜色的准确和鲜艳度是亟待解决的问题。Woven polyester yarn-dyed fabrics are divided into warp twisting and warp sizing from the weaving process. Both warp twisting and sizing are to solve weaving problems. The quality of untwisted and unsizing weaving is unqualified and there is no output. The existing twisted yarn-dyed fabric can be directly shaped, but after the polyester is twisted, the hand feel is rough and hard, and there is no cotton feeling. After sizing, desizing is required. The poor color fastness of polyester colored yarn is a world-class problem. The main difficulty of sizing and desizing polyester colored yarn is the completeness of desizing and the protection of color. The existing desizing process is open-width washing. Desizing is a protective desizing, and the desizing is endless, so the yarn-dyed fabric surface does not feel cottony. There has been no good plan for the desizing process on yarn-dyed fabrics. How to completely remove the size of the yarn-dyed fabric, have a cottony feel, and protect the accuracy and vividness of the color at the same time is an urgent problem to be solved.
而梭织涤纶色织面料用于高品质的服装的制造如衬衫时,需要具有舒适度、保型性和颜色稳定性。When woven polyester yarn-dyed fabrics are used in the manufacture of high-quality clothing such as shirts, they need to have comfort, shape retention and color stability.
发明内容Summary of the invention
为了解决上述问题,提供了一种涤纶仿棉色织面料、及其制造方法和应用,该涤纶仿棉色织面料具有良好的棉感、高弹性、高色牢度和低熨烫缩率,该色织面料适用于高质量服装的制作尤其适用于衬衫的制作。该色织面料的制造方法节能减排,制得具有低熨烫缩率、高色牢度和手感仿棉的新型涤纶色织面料。该色织面料用于服装如衬衫的制作增加了其选择性和功能性。In order to solve the above problems, a polyester imitation cotton yarn-dyed fabric and its manufacturing method and application are provided. The polyester imitation cotton yarn-dyed fabric has good cotton feel, high elasticity, high color fastness and low ironing shrinkage. The yarn-dyed fabric is suitable for the production of high-quality clothing, especially for the production of shirts. The manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabric saves energy and reduces emissions, and a new type of polyester yarn-dyed fabric with low ironing shrinkage, high color fastness and cotton-like hand feeling is prepared. The yarn-dyed fabric is used in the production of clothing such as shirts to increase its selectivity and functionality.
根据本申请的一个方面,提供了一种色织面料,该色织面料具有良好的棉感、高弹性、高色牢度和低熨烫缩率。According to one aspect of the present application, a yarn-dyed fabric is provided, which has good cotton feel, high elasticity, high color fastness and low ironing shrinkage.
所述色织面料,由经纱和纬纱交织而成,其特征在于,所述经纱采用染色的涤纶作为包覆层和低温氨纶作为芯纱的包芯纱,所述涤纶和低温氨纶的重量比为4-49:1,所述涤纶通过碱减量处理形成侵蚀表面。The yarn-dyed fabric is formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns, and is characterized in that the warp yarns are core-spun yarns with dyed polyester as the covering layer and low-temperature spandex as the core yarn, and the weight ratio of the polyester and the low-temperature spandex is 4-49:1, the polyester fiber forms an eroded surface through alkali reduction treatment.
进一步地,所述涤纶和低温氨纶的重量比为10-30:1。优选地,所述涤纶和低温氨纶的重量比为10-15:1。更优选地,所述涤纶和低温氨纶的重量比为13-14:1。Further, the weight ratio of the polyester to the low-temperature spandex is 10-30:1. Preferably, the weight ratio of the polyester to the low-temperature spandex is 10-15:1. More preferably, the weight ratio of the polyester to the low-temperature spandex is 13-14:1.
可选地,所述低温氨纶的细度为20D-40D,所述包芯纱由涤纶和低温氨纶机包工艺制得,捻度为5-8捻/cm,拉比为2.5-3.5。优选地,所述低温氨纶的细度范围的上限选自25D、30D或35D,下限选自25D、30D或35D。优选地,捻度为5-6捻/cm,所述拉比为3。捻度低于5捻/cm漏低温氨纶影响色织布面,捻度高于8捻/cm的色织布面粗糙感增加手感不合格。Optionally, the fineness of the low-temperature spandex is 20D-40D, and the core-spun yarn is made by a polyester and low-temperature spandex machine-packing process, the twist is 5-8 twists/cm, and the raft ratio is 2.5-3.5. Preferably, the upper limit of the fineness range of the low temperature spandex is selected from 25D, 30D or 35D, and the lower limit is selected from 25D, 30D or 35D. Preferably, the twist is 5-6 twists/cm, and the rabbi is 3. Low-temperature spandex with a twist lower than 5 twists/cm will affect the yarn-dyed fabric surface, and the yarn-dyed fabric surface with a twist higher than 8 twists/cm will increase the roughness and feel unqualified.
可选地,低温氨纶为染色或者不染色,当低温氨纶染色时使用的染料为耐高温耐水洗耐碱型分散染料。Optionally, the low-temperature spandex is dyed or undyed, and the dye used when the low-temperature spandex is dyed is a high-temperature, water-washable and alkali-resistant disperse dye.
采用低温氨纶,降低定型需要的温度,控制熨烫缩率。低温氨纶的使用可以降低定型的温度和时间,控制了色纱分散染料的热升华,提高了色织面料的色牢度,节能减排。Use low-temperature spandex to reduce the temperature required for styling and control the ironing shrinkage. The use of low-temperature spandex can reduce the temperature and time of setting, control the sublimation of disperse dyes of colored yarns, improve the color fastness of yarn-dyed fabrics, and save energy and reduce emissions.
可选地,所述涤纶通过碱减量处理的减量率不高于5%。优选地,所述涤 纶通过碱减量处理的减量率1%-3%。Optionally, the reduction rate of the polyester fiber through alkali reduction treatment is not higher than 5%. Preferably, the reduction rate of the polyester fiber through alkali reduction treatment is 1%-3%.
可选地,所述涤纶选自涤纶长丝、涤纶复合纤维和涤纶短纤维中的至少一种。Optionally, the polyester is selected from at least one of polyester filaments, polyester composite fibers and polyester staple fibers.
优选地,所述涤纶长丝选自拉伸变形丝DTY、全拉伸丝FDY、空气变形纱ATY和高弹丝中的至少一种;所述涤纶复合纤维包括弹力复合涤纶纤维T400,所述涤纶短纤维包括仿棉涤纶。Preferably, the polyester filament is selected from at least one of stretch textured yarn DTY, fully drawn yarn FDY, air textured yarn ATY and high elastic yarn; the polyester composite fiber includes elastic composite polyester fiber T400, and Polyester staple fibers include cotton-like polyester.
更优选地,所述涤纶为F数不低于24的涤纶。进一步地,所述涤纶为高F数消光涤纶DTY。该涤纶的设置方式制得的色织面料的棉感较强。More preferably, the polyester is a polyester with an F number of not less than 24. Further, the polyester is a high F-number matting polyester DTY. The yarn-dyed fabric produced by this polyester setting method has a strong cotton feel.
优选地,所述纬纱选自涤纶、氨纶、棉纱和与所述经纱相同组成中的至少一种。更优选地,所述纬纱选自与所述经纱组成相同、涤纶DTY、FDY、ATY、高弹丝、T400、其他仿棉涤纶。进一步地,所述纬纱包括75D/72F消光涤纶DTY。Preferably, the weft yarn is selected from at least one of polyester, spandex, cotton yarn and the same composition as the warp yarn. More preferably, the weft yarn is selected from the same composition as the warp yarn, polyester DTY, FDY, ATY, high elastic yarn, T400, and other cotton-like polyester. Further, the weft yarn includes 75D/72F matte polyester DTY.
优选地,所述涤纶染色使用的染料为耐高温耐水洗耐碱型分散染料,所述染料的染色温度为130±5℃。更优选地,染料包括德司达的耐高温耐水洗耐碱型分散染料。涤纶染色的时间为30-60min,该染色时间的设置使得涤纶充分开纤,将涤纶的纤维网络点打开。Preferably, the dye used for dyeing the polyester is a high-temperature, water-washable and alkali-resistant disperse dye, and the dyeing temperature of the dye is 130±5°C. More preferably, the dye includes DyStar's high-temperature, water-washable and alkali-resistant disperse dyes. The dyeing time of polyester is 30-60min. The setting of the dyeing time makes the polyester fully open and open the fiber network points of the polyester.
可选地,根据GB/T3920-2008测定所述色织面料的色牢度不低于4级。优选地,根据GB/T3920-2008所述色织面料的色牢度不低于5级。Optionally, the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric measured according to GB/T3920-2008 is not lower than Grade 4. Preferably, the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric according to GB/T3920-2008 is not lower than Grade 5.
可选地,根据GB/T 5718-1997《纺织品色牢度试验耐干热(热压除外)色牢度》测定的所述色织面料的色牢度不低于4级。优选地,根据GB/T 5718-1997《纺织品色牢度试验耐干热(热压除外)色牢度》测定的所述色织面料的色牢度不低于5级。Optionally, the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric measured according to GB/T 5718-1997 "Textile color fastness test to dry heat (except hot pressing) color fastness" is not lower than level 4. Preferably, the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric measured according to GB/T 5718-1997 "Textile color fastness test to dry heat (except hot pressing) color fastness" is not lower than grade 5.
可选地,所述色织面料在170℃和15s处理6次的熨烫缩率不高于3%,该熨烫缩率的控制充分确保弹力面料的舒适性,低温氨纶有助于控制弹力面料的熨烫缩率。Optionally, the ironing shrinkage rate of the yarn-dyed fabric treated for 6 times at 170°C and 15s is not higher than 3%. The ironing shrinkage rate control fully ensures the comfort of the elastic fabric, and the low temperature spandex helps to control the elasticity The ironing shrinkage of the fabric.
根据本申请的另一方面,提供了一种上述任一所述的涤纶仿棉色织面料的 制造方法,该色织面料的制造方法节能减排,制得具有低熨烫缩率、高色牢度和手感仿棉的新型涤纶色织面料。According to another aspect of the present application, there is provided a manufacturing method of any one of the above-mentioned polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabrics. The manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabrics saves energy and reduces emissions, and has low ironing shrinkage and high color A new polyester yarn-dyed fabric with cotton-like fastness and feel.
该所述的涤纶仿棉色织面料的制造方法包括下述步骤:The manufacturing method of the polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric includes the following steps:
1)将提供的纬纱和上浆的经纱交织织造得粗色织面料;1) Interweaving the provided weft yarn and sizing warp yarn to make a thick yarn-dyed fabric;
2)第一退浆:粗色织面料经过退浆混合液Ⅰ连续式退浆,第一退浆的温度为91-91.5℃和时间不大于20min,退浆混合液Ⅰ包括2-3wt%强碱和2-3wt%退浆剂;2) The first desizing: the coarse yarn-dyed fabric undergoes continuous desizing in the desizing mixture I. The temperature of the first desizing is 91-91.5℃ and the time is not more than 20min. The desizing mixture I includes 2-3wt% strong Alkali and 2-3wt% desizing agent;
3)预定型:预定型的温度180-200℃;3) Predetermined type: the temperature of predetermined type is 180-200℃;
4)第二退浆:通过退浆混合液Ⅱ间歇式退浆,第二退浆的温度为60-90℃和时间不大于45min,退浆混合液Ⅱ包括2-5wt%强碱和、2-5wt%保险粉;4) The second desizing: Desizing is carried out by batch desizing mixture Ⅱ, the temperature of the second desizing is 60-90℃ and the time is not more than 45min, the desizing mixture Ⅱ includes 2-5wt% strong alkali and 2 -5wt% insurance powder;
5)成定型:成定型的温度100-140℃,即制得所述色织面料;5) Shaping: the temperature of shaping is 100-140°C, and the yarn-dyed fabric is prepared;
其中,所述经纱包括:染色的涤纶纱线作为包覆层和低温氨纶作为芯纱的包芯纱;所述上浆的浆料包括丙烯酸类浆料。Wherein, the warp yarn includes a core-spun yarn with dyed polyester yarn as the covering layer and low-temperature spandex as the core yarn; and the sizing sizing agent includes acrylic sizing agent.
可选地,所述染色的涤纶使用的染料为耐高温耐水洗耐碱型分散染料。优选地,所述染色温度为130±5℃。涤纶染色的时间为30-60min,该染色时间的设置使得涤纶充分开纤,将涤纶的纤维网络点打开。Optionally, the dye used in the dyed polyester is a high-temperature, water-washable and alkali-resistant disperse dye. Preferably, the dyeing temperature is 130±5°C. The dyeing time of polyester is 30-60min. The setting of the dyeing time makes the polyester fully open and open the fiber network points of the polyester.
优选地,所述低温氨纶的细度为20D-40D,所述包芯纱由涤纶和低温氨纶机包工艺制得,捻度为5-8捻/cm,拉比为2.5-3.5。更优选地,捻度为5-6捻/cm,所述拉比为3。Preferably, the fineness of the low-temperature spandex is 20D-40D, and the core-spun yarn is made of polyester and low-temperature spandex machine-packing process, with a twist of 5-8 twists/cm, and a raster ratio of 2.5-3.5. More preferably, the twist is 5-6 twists/cm, and the rabbi is 3.
优选地,所述上浆的温度为130±5℃,该上浆的温度为低温上浆。更优选地,所述浆料的浓度为10-15wt%,所述上浆的车速为40-50米/min。进一步优选地,所述浆料的浓度为12wt%,所述上浆的车速为45米/min。该浆料浓度低,既可以高质量织造又方便整理退浆。上浆的工序为分条机整经制作织轴,织轴倒轴上浆,该上浆工序操作节约时间,减少出错。Preferably, the sizing temperature is 130±5°C, and the sizing temperature is low-temperature sizing. More preferably, the concentration of the slurry is 10-15 wt%, and the vehicle speed of the sizing is 40-50 m/min. Further preferably, the concentration of the slurry is 12 wt%, and the vehicle speed of the sizing is 45 m/min. The slurry concentration is low, which can be used for high-quality weaving and convenient for finishing and desizing. The sizing process is the warping of the slitting machine to make the weaving shaft, and the weaving shaft is reversed to sizing. The sizing process saves time and reduces errors.
优选地,所述织造使用的织机为喷水式织机。化纤产品使用喷水织机,相比喷气织机静电影响更小,水对于浆料也有一定的溶胀作用,在织造过程中会 有部分浆料提前脱落。Preferably, the loom used for weaving is a water jet loom. Chemical fiber products use water jet looms, which have less electrostatic influence than air jet looms. Water also has a certain swelling effect on the slurry, and some of the slurry will fall off early during the weaving process.
优选地,所述连续退浆为使用长车退浆机退浆,第一退浆温度设为91℃,退浆车速40-50m/min,第一退浆的时间不大于15min。第一退浆温度低于91℃退浆率低,其高于91.5℃会沾色明显,所述第一退浆既可以去除大部分浆料、实现色织面料的预缩、又可以使得色织面料保色。Preferably, the continuous desizing is desizing using a long-car desizing machine, the first desizing temperature is set to 91° C., the desizing vehicle speed is 40-50 m/min, and the first desizing time is not more than 15 minutes. The first desizing temperature is lower than 91℃, the desizing rate is low, and it will stain obvious when it is higher than 91.5℃. The first desizing can remove most of the size, realize the pre-shrinkage of the yarn-dyed fabric, and make the color Color preservation of woven fabric.
优选地,所述预定型的车速为30-40m/min。在第一退浆具有预缩的作用,在第一退浆之后进行预定型使得面料具有保型性。Preferably, the predetermined vehicle speed is 30-40 m/min. In the first desizing, it has the function of preshrinking. After the first desizing, the pre-sizing is performed to make the fabric have shape retention.
优选地,所述间歇式退浆为缸内水洗。所述第二退浆的温度为70℃和时间不大于15min,所述退浆混合液Ⅱ包括4-5wt%强碱和4-5wt%保险粉。所述退浆混合液Ⅱ还包括0.5-2g/L去油剂。所述第二退浆步骤包括将退浆混合液Ⅱ与色织面料水洗1次,加入0.5-2g/L亲水性柔软剂,水洗1次,出水2次或直到出水干净。所述第二退浆对色织面料还原水洗,既可以完全去除色织面料的浆料,并且对色织面料中的涤纶进行碱减量腐蚀,提高棉感。Preferably, the intermittent desizing is in-tank water washing. The temperature of the second desizing is 70° C. and the time is not more than 15 minutes, and the desizing mixture II includes 4 to 5 wt% of strong alkali and 4 to 5 wt% of sodium hydroxide. The desizing mixture II also includes 0.5-2g/L degreasing agent. The second desizing step includes washing the desizing mixture II and the yarn-dyed fabric with water once, adding 0.5-2 g/L of hydrophilic softener, washing once with water, and draining water twice or until the draining water is clean. The second desizing can reduce and wash the yarn-dyed fabric with water, which can completely remove the size of the yarn-dyed fabric, and also performs alkali reduction corrosion on the polyester in the yarn-dyed fabric to improve the cotton feel.
优选地,所述成定型的车速为30-50m/min。成定型进一步对色织面料定型,成定型的温度设置为100-140℃,为低温定型,有利于控制色织面料的保色性、熨烫率和手感。Preferably, the shaped vehicle speed is 30-50m/min. The final setting is to further shape the yarn-dyed fabric. The setting temperature of the finalizing is 100-140℃, which is a low-temperature setting, which is beneficial to control the color retention, ironing rate and feel of the yarn-dyed fabric.
可选地,所述强碱选自氢氧化钾、氢氧化钠、氢氧化锂和碳酸钠中的至少一种。优选地,所述强碱为氢氧化钠。Optionally, the strong base is selected from at least one of potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide and sodium carbonate. Preferably, the strong base is sodium hydroxide.
可选地,所述预定型中添加预定型助剂Ⅰ,所述预定型助剂Ⅰ包括干爽手感助剂和醋酸。优选地,所述干爽手感助剂包括抗菌助剂。更优选地,所述抗菌助剂为锌离子类抗菌剂。进一步优选地,所述预定型助剂Ⅰ包括2wt‰锌离子类抗菌剂和4wt‰醋酸。醋酸可以中和部分退浆残留的碱液。化纤类衬衫面料需要吸湿排汗功能,在导汗过程中会有大量人体代谢废物残留在布料中,微生物和细菌易滋生,一是皮肤健康受到影响,二是微生物和细菌在生长过程中容易发臭,所以需要增加抗菌剂。现有技术中的功能性助剂在成定型的步骤中添加,本申请的将干爽手感助剂添加在预定型步骤提高了色织面料的干爽性 能。Optionally, a predetermined type auxiliary agent I is added to the predetermined type, and the predetermined type auxiliary agent I includes a dry hand feeling auxiliary agent and acetic acid. Preferably, the dry feel assistant includes an antibacterial assistant. More preferably, the antibacterial auxiliary agent is a zinc ion antibacterial agent. Further preferably, the predetermined auxiliary agent I includes 2wt‰ zinc ion antibacterial agent and 4wt‰ acetic acid. Acetic acid can neutralize part of the residual lye from desizing. Chemical fiber shirt fabrics need moisture absorption and sweat wicking function. During the process of perspiration, there will be a large amount of human metabolic waste remaining in the fabric. Microorganisms and bacteria are easy to breed. One is the skin health is affected, and the other is that microorganisms and bacteria are easy to grow during the growth process. Stink, so need to add antibacterial agent The functional auxiliary agent in the prior art is added in the shaping step, and the addition of the dry hand feel auxiliary agent in the predetermined shaping step of the present application improves the dry performance of the yarn-dyed fabric.
可选地,所述成定型中添加成定型助剂Ⅱ,所述成定型助剂Ⅱ包括滑爽手感助剂。优选地,所述滑爽手感助剂包括吸湿排汗剂和/或柔软剂。更优选地,所述滑爽手感助剂包括3wt%吸湿排汗剂和3%柔软剂,所述成定型助剂Ⅱ还包括2wt‰浓度抗菌剂。该成定型助剂Ⅱ可以使得色织面料保持仿棉手感和功能性。Optionally, a styling auxiliary agent II is added in the styling, and the styling auxiliary agent II includes a smooth hand feeling auxiliary agent. Preferably, the slippery feel aid includes a moisture absorbing and perspiration agent and/or a softening agent. More preferably, the smooth hand feeling aid includes 3% by weight moisture absorption and perspiration agent and 3% softener, and the styling aid II also includes an antibacterial agent at a concentration of 2% by weight. The styling aid II can make the yarn-dyed fabric maintain cotton-like feel and functionality.
根据本申请的又一方面,提供了一种服装,该色织面料用于服装如衬衫的制作增加了其选择性和功能性。According to another aspect of the present application, a garment is provided, and the yarn-dyed fabric is used in the production of garments such as shirts to increase its selectivity and functionality.
该服装由色织面料制成,所述的色织面料选自上述任一所述的色织面料和,上述任一所述的方法制造的色织面料中的至少一种。The garment is made of a yarn-dyed fabric, and the yarn-dyed fabric is selected from at least one of the yarn-dyed fabrics described above and the yarn-dyed fabrics manufactured by any of the methods described above.
本申请中,所述GB/T3920-2008《纺织品色牢度试验耐皂洗色牢度》中D(4)方法测定的耐皂洗色牢度,和GB/T3920-2008《纺织品色牢度试验耐摩擦色牢度》测定的耐摩擦色牢度。In this application, the color fastness to soaping determined by the D(4) method in the GB/T3920-2008 "Textile color fastness test to soaping color fastness" is the same as GB/T3920-2008 "Textile color fastness to soaping". Test color fastness to rubbing" Color fastness to rubbing measured.
本申请的有益效果包括但不限于:The beneficial effects of this application include but are not limited to:
1.根据本申请的涤纶仿棉色织面料,具有良好的棉感、高弹性、高色牢度和低熨烫缩率,该色织面料适用于高质量服装的制作尤其适用于衬衫的制作。1. The polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric according to this application has good cotton feel, high elasticity, high color fastness and low ironing shrinkage. The yarn-dyed fabric is suitable for the production of high-quality clothing, especially for the production of shirts .
2.根据本申请的色织面料的制造方法,具有该节能减排,制得具有低熨烫缩率、高色牢度和手感仿棉的新型涤纶色织面料。2. According to the manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabric of the present application, with the energy saving and emission reduction, a new type of polyester yarn-dyed fabric with low ironing shrinkage, high color fastness and cotton-like texture is produced.
3.根据本申请的服装,该色织面料用于服装如衬衫的制作增加了其选择性和功能性。3. According to the clothing of the present application, the yarn-dyed fabric is used in the production of clothing such as shirts to increase its selectivity and functionality.
具体实施方式Detailed ways
下面结合实施例详述本申请,但本申请并不局限于这些实施例。The present application will be described in detail below with reference to the embodiments, but the present application is not limited to these embodiments.
如无特别说明,本申请的实施例中的原料和催化剂均通过商业途径购买。Unless otherwise specified, the raw materials and catalysts in the examples of the present application are all purchased through commercial channels.
本申请的实施例中分析方法如下:The analysis method in the embodiment of this application is as follows:
1、染色牢度1. Dyeing fastness
耐皂洗色牢度:参照GB/T3920-2008《纺织品色牢度试验耐皂洗色牢度》中D(4)方法测定。Color fastness to soaping: Refer to method D(4) in GB/T3920-2008 "Textile color fastness test color fastness to soaping".
耐摩擦色牢度:参照GB/T3920-2008《纺织品色牢度试验耐摩擦色牢度》测定。Color fastness to rubbing: Refer to GB/T3920-2008 "Textile color fastness test for rubbing color fastness".
耐升华色牢度:参照GB/T 5718-1997《纺织品色牢度试验耐干热(热压除外)色牢度》测定。Color fastness to sublimation: Refer to GB/T 5718-1997 "Textile color fastness test for color fastness to dry heat (except hot pressing)" to determine.
2、熨烫缩率:色织面料在170℃和15s处理6次的测试熨烫缩率。2. Ironing shrinkage: Yarn-dyed fabrics are tested for ironing shrinkage at 170℃ and 15s for 6 times.
3、弹性测试标准:FZ/T01034《纺织品机织物拉伸弹性试验方法》。3. Elasticity test standard: FZ/T01034 "Test Method for Tensile Elasticity of Textile Woven Fabrics".
4、棉感:根据10人对涤纶仿棉色织面料的触摸感判定:4. Cotton feeling: judged according to 10 people's touch feeling on polyester imitation cotton yarn-dyed fabric:
优:柔软、有弹性、厚实感强;良:带有一些顺滑感、垂感;差:纸感强或者粗硬感强。Excellent: soft, elastic, and strong sense of thickness; good: with some smoothness and drape; poor: strong paper feel or strong sense of roughness.
根据本申请的一种实施方式,涤纶仿棉色织面料的制造方法包括下述步骤:According to an embodiment of the present application, the manufacturing method of polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric includes the following steps:
1)将提供的纬纱和上浆的经纱交织织造得粗色织面料,所述经纱包括:染色的涤纶纱线作为包覆层和低温氨纶作为芯纱的包芯纱,所述上浆的浆料包括丙烯酸类浆料;1) Interweaving the provided weft yarn and the sizing warp yarn to obtain a thick yarn-dyed fabric, the warp yarn comprising: a core-spun yarn with dyed polyester yarn as the covering layer and low-temperature spandex as the core yarn, and the sizing slurry includes Acrylic slurry;
2)第一退浆:粗色织面料经过退浆混合液Ⅰ连续式退浆,第一退浆的温度为91-91.5℃和时间不大于20min,退浆混合液Ⅰ包括2-3wt%强碱和2-3wt%退浆剂;2) The first desizing: the coarse yarn-dyed fabric undergoes continuous desizing in the desizing mixture I. The temperature of the first desizing is 91-91.5℃ and the time is not more than 20min. The desizing mixture I includes 2-3wt% strong Alkali and 2-3wt% desizing agent;
3)预定型:预定型的温度180-200℃;3) Predetermined type: the temperature of predetermined type is 180-200℃;
4)第二退浆:通过退浆混合液Ⅱ间歇式退浆,第二退浆的温度为60-90℃和时间不大于45min,退浆混合液Ⅱ包括2-5wt%强碱和、2-5wt%保险粉;4) The second desizing: Desizing is carried out by batch desizing mixture Ⅱ, the temperature of the second desizing is 60-90℃ and the time is not more than 45min, the desizing mixture Ⅱ includes 2-5wt% strong alkali and 2 -5wt% insurance powder;
5)成定型:成定型的温度100-140℃,即制得所述色织面料。5) Shaping: the temperature of shaping is 100-140°C to obtain the yarn-dyed fabric.
实施例1 色织面料1#Example 1 Yarn-dyed fabric 1#
1)A、提供原料:提供重量比为13.5:1的涤纶和低温氨纶,涤纶为75D/72F消光涤纶DTY,低温氨纶为30D细度的新型低温氨纶;1) A. Provide raw materials: provide polyester and low-temperature spandex with a weight ratio of 13.5:1, polyester is 75D/72F matte polyester DTY, and low-temperature spandex is a new type of low-temperature spandex with 30D fineness;
B、涤纶染色:采用德司达的耐高温耐水洗耐碱型分散染料对涤纶进行染色,染色温度为130℃,涤纶染色的时间为40min;B. Dyeing of polyester: DyStar's high-temperature, water-resistant and alkali-resistant disperse dyes are used to dye polyester at 130℃, and the dyeing time for polyester is 40min;
C、经纱、纬纱制备:染色涤纶作为包覆层和低温氨纶作为芯纱运用机包工艺生产包芯纱,捻度为5-6捻/cm,拉比3;C. Preparation of warp yarn and weft yarn: dyed polyester is used as the covering layer and low-temperature spandex is used as the core yarn to produce core-spun yarn using machine-coated technology, with a twist of 5-6 twists/cm and a rabbi of 3;
D、经纱上浆:使用丙烯酸类浆料,浆料浓度为12wt%,130℃对包芯纱上浆,为分条机整经制作织轴,织轴倒轴上浆,上浆车速45米/分钟;D. Warp yarn sizing: use acrylic sizing agent with a slurry concentration of 12wt%, sizing the core-spun yarn at 130°C, making weaving shafts for warping by the slitting machine, and sizing the weaving shafts in reverse shaft sizing. The sizing speed is 45 meters/minute;
E、织造:将经纱和纬纱采用喷水织机交织织造制得粗色织面料;E. Weaving: the warp and weft are interwoven with a water jet loom to make a thick yarn-dyed fabric;
2)第一退浆:粗色织面料经过退浆混合液Ⅰ连续式退浆(长车退浆),温度为91-91.5℃和时间不大于20min,车速45米/分钟,退浆混合液Ⅰ包括2-3wt%强碱和2-3wt%退浆剂,退浆剂可以为退浆酶;2) The first desizing: the coarse yarn-dyed fabric goes through the desizing mixture I continuous desizing (long car desizing), the temperature is 91-91.5℃ and the time is not more than 20min, the vehicle speed is 45 m/min, the desizing mixture Ⅰ Including 2-3wt% strong alkali and 2-3wt% desizing agent, the desizing agent can be desizing enzyme;
3)预定型:预定型的温度190℃,车速为35m/min;上第一遍浓度约2wt‰的抗菌剂,增加浓度约4wt‰醋酸中和退浆残留碱液;3) Predetermined type: Predetermined temperature is 190℃, vehicle speed is 35m/min; the first pass of the antibacterial agent with a concentration of about 2wt‰, increase the concentration of about 4wt‰ of acetic acid to neutralize the desizing residual lye;
4)第二退浆:通过退浆混合液Ⅱ间歇式退浆(缸内水洗),第二退浆的温度为60-90℃和时间不大于45min,退浆混合液Ⅱ包括2g/L氢氧化钠、2g/L保险粉和1g/L去油剂,水洗1次,加入1g/L柔软剂,水洗1次,出水2次或直到出水干净;4) The second desizing: through the desizing mixture Ⅱ intermittent desizing (washing in the tank), the second desizing temperature is 60-90℃ and the time is not more than 45min, the desizing mixture Ⅱ includes 2g/L hydrogen Sodium oxide, 2g/L sodium silicate and 1g/L degreaser, wash once with water, add 1g/L softener, wash once with water, bleed 2 times or until the bleed is clean;
5)成定型:成定型的温度140℃,车速35米/分钟,添加2wt‰浓度抗菌剂、3%浓度吸湿排汗和3%浓度柔软剂,即制得色织面料1#。5) Shaping: the shaping temperature is 140°C, the vehicle speed is 35 m/min, 2wt‰ concentration of antibacterial agent, 3% concentration of moisture wicking and 3% concentration of softener are added to obtain yarn-dyed fabric 1#.
性能测试:耐皂洗色牢度5级,耐摩擦色牢度5级,耐升华色牢度5级;熨烫缩率不高于1%;棉感为优。Performance test: color fastness to soaping is grade 5, color fastness to rubbing is grade 5, color fastness to sublimation is grade 5; ironing shrinkage is not higher than 1%; cotton feel is excellent.
实施例2 色织面料2#、3#Example 2 Yarn-dyed fabric 2#, 3#
按照实施例1的方法制造色织面料2#、3#,与实施例1不同之处在于经纱使用的涤纶和低温氨纶的重量比为3、52分别制得色织面料2#、3#,色织面料2#的手感弹性极差,强力差;色织面料3#的手感较硬,吸湿性差,棉感差。Yarn-dyed fabrics 2# and 3# were manufactured according to the method of Example 1. The difference from Example 1 is that the weight ratio of polyester and low-temperature spandex used in the warp yarns is 3 and 52 to make yarn-dyed fabrics 2# and 3#, respectively. The yarn-dyed fabric 2# has very poor elasticity and strength; the yarn-dyed fabric 3# has a hard hand feel, poor moisture absorption, and poor cotton feel.
实施例3 色织面料4#、5#Example 3 Yarn-dyed fabric 4#, 5#
按照实施例1的方法制造色织面料4#、5#,与实施例1不同之处在于经纱 使用的低温氨纶的捻度为4捻/cm和9捻/cm,分别制得色织面料4#、5#,色织面料4#的会有漏出低温氨纶的部位,色织面料5#的手感差。Yarn-dyed fabrics 4# and 5# were manufactured according to the method of Example 1. The difference from Example 1 is that the low-temperature spandex used in the warp has a twist of 4 twists/cm and 9 twists/cm. Yarn-dyed fabrics 4# were prepared respectively. , 5#, yarn-dyed fabric 4# will have parts where low-temperature spandex leaks, and yarn-dyed fabric 5# has a poor feel.
实施例4 色织面料6#Example 4 Yarn-dyed fabric 6#
按照实施例1的方法制造色织面料6#,与实施例1不同之处在于:Yarn-dyed fabric 6# was manufactured according to the method of Example 1. The difference from Example 1 is that:
步骤B中使用的氨纶为常温氨纶,染色温度为150℃,染色时间为20min,制得色织面料6#。The spandex used in step B is normal temperature spandex, the dyeing temperature is 150° C., and the dyeing time is 20 minutes, to obtain yarn-dyed fabric 6#.
性能测试:耐皂洗色牢度3级,耐摩擦色牢度3级,耐升华色牢度3级;熨烫缩率不高于5%;棉感为良。Performance test: color fastness to soaping is level 3, color fastness to rubbing is level 3, color fastness to sublimation is level 3; ironing shrinkage is not higher than 5%; cotton feel is good.
实施例5 色织面料7#、8#Example 5 Yarn-dyed fabric 7#, 8#
按照实施例1的方法制造色织面料7#、8#,与实施例1不同之处在于:Yarn-dyed fabrics 7# and 8# were manufactured according to the method of Example 1. The difference from Example 1 is that:
步骤2)第一退浆中的退浆温度为92.5℃、90.5℃分别制得色织面料7#、8#。Step 2) The desizing temperature in the first desizing is 92.5°C and 90.5°C to prepare yarn-dyed fabrics 7# and 8#, respectively.
色织面料7#性能测试:面料沾色,质量不合格。色织面料8#性能测试:、棉感为差,退浆不干净。Yarn-dyed fabric 7# performance test: the fabric is stained and the quality is unqualified. Yarn-dyed fabric 8# performance test: The cotton feel is poor, and the desizing is not clean.
实施例6 色织面料9#Example 6 Yarn-dyed fabric 9#
按照实施例1的方法制造色织面料9#,与实施例1不同之处在于:Yarn-dyed fabric 9# was manufactured according to the method of Example 1. The difference from Example 1 is that:
在步骤2)中不添加抗菌助剂,在步骤5)成定型中添加4wt‰抗菌剂制得色织面料9#。的退浆温度为92.5℃、90.5℃分别制得色织面料7#、8#。In step 2), no antibacterial auxiliary agent is added, and 4wt‰ of antibacterial agent is added in step 5) to make a yarn-dyed fabric 9#. The desizing temperature is 92.5℃ and 90.5℃ respectively to make yarn-dyed fabrics 7# and 8#.
色织面料9#性能测试:耐皂洗色牢度5级,耐摩擦色牢度5级,耐升华色牢度5级;熨烫缩率不高于1%;棉感相对于色织面料1#干爽性差。Yarn-dyed fabric 9# performance test: color fastness to soaping level 5, color fastness to rubbing level 5, color fastness to sublimation level 5; ironing shrinkage rate is not higher than 1%; cotton feel relative to yarn-dyed fabric 1# Poor dryness.
实施例7 色织面料10#Example 7 Yarn-dyed fabric 10#
按照实施例1的方法制造色织面料10#,与实施例1不同之处在于:Yarn-dyed fabric 10# was manufactured according to the method of Example 1. The difference from Example 1 is that:
步骤2)第一退浆:退浆混合液Ⅰ包括4wt%强碱和2-3wt%退浆剂。Step 2) First desizing: The desizing mixture I includes 4wt% strong alkali and 2-3wt% desizing agent.
步骤4)第二退浆:通过退浆混合液Ⅱ间歇式退浆(缸内水洗),第二退浆的温度为60-90℃和时间不大于45min,退浆混合液Ⅱ包括6g/L氢氧化钠、2g/L保险粉和1g/L去油剂,水洗1次,加入1g/L柔软剂,水洗1次,出水2次或 直到出水干净。Step 4) The second desizing: the desizing mixture II is used for intermittent desizing (washing in the tank), the temperature of the second desizing is 60-90℃ and the time is not more than 45min, and the desizing mixture II includes 6g/L Sodium hydroxide, 2g/L sodium hydroxide and 1g/L degreaser, wash once with water, add 1g/L softener, wash once with water, and drain water twice or until the water is clean.
色织面料10#性能测试:耐皂洗色牢度3级,耐摩擦色牢度3级,耐升华色牢度3级;熨烫缩率高于5%;棉感良。Yarn-dyed fabric 10# performance test: soaping color fastness level 3, rubbing color fastness level 3, sublimation color fastness level 3; ironing shrinkage rate is higher than 5%; good cotton feel.
实施例8 色织面料11#Example 8 Yarn-dyed fabric 11#
按照实施例1的方法制造色织面料11#,与实施例1不同之处在于:不进行步骤4)、5)。The yarn-dyed fabric 11# was manufactured according to the method of Example 1. The difference from Example 1 is that steps 4) and 5) are not performed.
色织面料11#性能测试:耐皂洗色牢度4级,耐摩擦色牢度4级,耐升华色牢度4级;熨烫缩率高于5%;棉感差。Yarn-dyed fabric 11# performance test: color fastness to soaping 4, color fastness to rubbing 4, color fastness to sublimation 4; ironing shrinkage rate is higher than 5%; cotton feel is poor.
实施例9 色织面料12#Example 9 Yarn-dyed fabric 12#
按照实施例1的方法制造色织面料12#,与实施例1不同之处在于:不进行步骤2)。The yarn-dyed fabric 12# was manufactured according to the method of Example 1. The difference from Example 1 is that step 2) is not performed.
色织面料12#性能测试:耐皂洗色牢度3级,耐摩擦色牢度3级,耐升华色牢度3级;熨烫缩率高于6%;棉感差。Yarn-dyed fabric 12# performance test: soaping fastness level 3, rubbing fastness level 3, sublimation fastness level 3; ironing shrinkage rate is higher than 6%; cotton feel is poor.

Claims (28)

  1. 一种涤纶仿棉色织面料,由经纱和纬纱交织而成,其特征在于,所述经纱采用染色的涤纶作为包覆层和低温氨纶作为芯纱的包芯纱,所述涤纶和低温氨纶的重量比为4-49:1,所述涤纶通过碱减量处理形成侵蚀表面。A polyester imitation cotton yarn-dyed fabric is formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns, and is characterized in that the warp yarns are core-spun yarns with dyed polyester as the covering layer and low-temperature spandex as the core yarn. The weight ratio is 4-49:1, and the polyester fiber is subjected to alkali reduction treatment to form an eroded surface.
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的色织面料,其特征在于,所述低温氨纶的细度为20D-40D,所述包芯纱由涤纶和低温氨纶机包工艺制得,捻度为5-8捻/cm,拉比为2.5-3.5。The yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fineness of the low-temperature spandex is 20D-40D, and the core-spun yarn is made of polyester and low-temperature spandex machine-packing process, and the twist is 5-8 twists/ cm, the rabbi is 2.5-3.5.
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的色织面料,其特征在于,所述机包工艺的捻度为5-6捻/cm,所述拉比为3。The yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 1, wherein the twist of the machine-wrapped process is 5-6 twists/cm, and the rabbi is 3.
  4. 根据权利要求1所述的色织面料,其特征在于,所述涤纶通过碱减量处理的减量率不高于5%。The yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 1, wherein the reduction rate of the polyester fiber through alkali reduction treatment is not higher than 5%.
  5. 根据权利要求1所述的色织面料,其特征在于,所述涤纶选自涤纶长丝、涤纶复合纤维和涤纶短纤维中的至少一种。The yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 1, wherein the polyester is selected from at least one of polyester filaments, polyester composite fibers, and polyester staple fibers.
  6. 根据权利要求5所述的色织面料,其特征在于,所述涤纶长丝选自拉伸变形丝DTY、全拉伸丝FDY、空气变形纱ATY和高弹丝中的至少一种;所述涤纶复合纤维包括弹力复合涤纶纤维T400;所述涤纶短纤维包括仿棉涤纶。The yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 5, wherein the polyester filament is selected from at least one of stretch textured yarn DTY, full stretch yarn FDY, air textured yarn ATY and high elastic yarn; The polyester composite fiber includes elastic composite polyester fiber T400; the polyester staple fiber includes cotton-like polyester.
  7. 根据权利要求1所述的色织面料,其特征在于,所述涤纶为F数不低于24的涤纶。The yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 1, wherein the polyester is polyester with an F number of not less than 24.
  8. 根据权利要求1所述的色织面料,其特征在于,所述涤纶染色使用的染料为耐高温耐水洗耐碱型分散染料,所述染料的染色温度为130±5℃。The yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 1, wherein the dye used for dyeing the polyester is a high-temperature, water-washable and alkali-resistant disperse dye, and the dyeing temperature of the dye is 130±5°C.
  9. 根据权利要求1所述的色织面料,其特征在于,根据GB/T3920-2008测定所述色织面料的色牢度不低于4级。The yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 1, wherein the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric measured according to GB/T3920-2008 is not lower than Grade 4.
  10. 根据权利要求9所述的色织面料,其特征在于,根据GB/T3920-2008所述色织面料的色牢度不低于5级。The yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 9, characterized in that the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric according to GB/T3920-2008 is not lower than grade 5.
  11. 根据权利要求1所述的色织面料,其特征在于,所述色织面料在170℃和15s处理6次的熨烫缩率不高于3%。The yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 1, wherein the ironing shrinkage rate of the yarn-dyed fabric treated at 170°C and 15s for 6 times is not higher than 3%.
  12. 权利要求1-11中任一项所述的涤纶仿棉色织面料的制造方法,其特征在于,其包括下述步骤:The method for manufacturing polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric according to any one of claims 1-11, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:
    1)将提供的纬纱和上浆的经纱交织织造得粗色织面料;1) Interweaving the provided weft yarn and sizing warp yarn to make a thick yarn-dyed fabric;
    2)第一退浆:粗色织面料经过退浆混合液Ⅰ连续式退浆,第一退浆的温度为91-91.5℃和时间不大于20min,退浆混合液Ⅰ包括2-3wt%强碱和2-3wt%退浆剂;2) The first desizing: the coarse yarn-dyed fabric undergoes continuous desizing in the desizing mixture I. The temperature of the first desizing is 91-91.5℃ and the time is not more than 20min. The desizing mixture I includes 2-3wt% strong Alkali and 2-3wt% desizing agent;
    3)预定型:预定型的温度180-200℃;3) Predetermined type: the temperature of predetermined type is 180-200℃;
    4)第二退浆:通过退浆混合液Ⅱ间歇式退浆,第二退浆的温度为60-90℃和时间不大于45min,退浆混合液Ⅱ包括2-5wt%强碱和,2-5wt%保险粉;4) The second desizing: the desizing mixture II is used for intermittent desizing. The temperature of the second desizing is 60-90℃ and the time is not more than 45min. The desizing mixture II includes 2-5wt% strong alkali and 2 -5wt% insurance powder;
    5)成定型:成定型的温度100-140℃,即制得所述色织面料;5) Shaping: the temperature of shaping is 100-140°C, and the yarn-dyed fabric is prepared;
    其中,所述经纱包括:染色的涤纶纱线作为包覆层和低温氨纶作为芯纱的包芯纱;所述上浆的浆料包括丙烯酸类浆料。Wherein, the warp yarn includes a core-spun yarn with dyed polyester yarn as the covering layer and low-temperature spandex as the core yarn; and the sizing sizing agent includes acrylic sizing agent.
  13. 根据权利要求12所述的色织面料的制造方法,其特征在于,所述染色的涤纶使用的染料为耐高温耐水洗耐碱型分散染料。The method for manufacturing a yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 12, wherein the dye used in the dyed polyester is a high-temperature, water-washable and alkali-resistant disperse dye.
  14. 根据权利要求12所述的色织面料的制造方法,所述染色温度为130±5℃。The method for manufacturing a yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 12, wherein the dyeing temperature is 130±5°C.
  15. 根据权利要求12所述的色织面料的制造方法,所述低温氨纶的细度为20D-40D,所述包芯纱由涤纶和低温氨纶机包工艺制得,捻度为5-8捻/cm,拉比为2.5-3.5。The method of manufacturing a yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 12, wherein the fineness of the low-temperature spandex is 20D-40D, and the core-spun yarn is made of polyester and low-temperature spandex machine-wrapped technology, and the twist is 5-8 twists/cm , The rabbi is 2.5-3.5.
  16. 根据权利要求15所述的色织面料的制造方法,所述机包工艺的捻度为5-6捻/cm,所述拉比为3。The method for manufacturing the yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 15, wherein the twist of the machine-wrapped process is 5-6 twists/cm, and the rabbi is 3.
  17. 根据权利要求12所述的色织面料的制造方法,所述上浆的温度为130±5℃。The method for manufacturing a yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 12, wherein the sizing temperature is 130±5°C.
  18. 根据权利要求12所述的色织面料的制造方法,所述浆料的浓度为10-15wt%,所述上浆的车速为40-50米/min。The method for manufacturing a yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 12, wherein the concentration of the slurry is 10-15 wt%, and the speed of the sizing is 40-50 m/min.
  19. 根据权利要求12所述的色织面料的制造方法,所述连续退浆为使用 长车退浆机退浆,第一退浆的温度为91℃退浆车速40-50m/min,第一退浆的时间不大于15min。The method for manufacturing a yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 12, wherein the continuous desizing is desizing using a long car desizing machine, the first desizing temperature is 91°C, the desizing speed is 40-50m/min, and the first desizing The slurry time is not more than 15min.
  20. 根据权利要求12所述的色织面料的制造方法,所述预定型的车速为30-40m/min。The method for manufacturing the yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 12, wherein the predetermined vehicle speed is 30-40 m/min.
  21. 根据权利要求12所述的色织面料的制造方法,所述间歇式退浆为缸内水洗,所述第二退浆的温度为70℃和时间不大于45min,所述退浆混合液Ⅱ包括4-5wt%强碱和,4-5wt%保险粉。The method for manufacturing a yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 12, wherein the intermittent desizing is in-tank water washing, the second desizing temperature is 70° C. and the time is not more than 45 min, and the desizing mixture II includes 4-5wt% strong alkali and 4-5wt% sodium hydroxide.
  22. 根据权利要求12所述的色织面料的制造方法,所述成定型的车速为30-50m/min。The method for manufacturing a yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 12, wherein the speed of the shaped woven fabric is 30-50 m/min.
  23. 根据权利要求12所述的色织面料的制造方法,其特征在于,所述预定型中添加预定型助剂Ⅰ,所述预定型助剂Ⅰ包括干爽手感助剂和醋酸。The method for manufacturing a yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 12, wherein a predetermined type auxiliary agent I is added to the predetermined type, and the predetermined type auxiliary agent I includes a dry hand feeling auxiliary agent and acetic acid.
  24. 根据权利要求23所述的色织面料的制造方法,所述干爽手感助剂包括抗菌助剂。22. The method for manufacturing a yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 23, wherein the dry hand feel assistant includes an antibacterial assistant.
  25. 根据权利要求24所述的色织面料的制造方法,所述抗菌助剂为锌离子类抗菌剂;The method for manufacturing a yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 24, wherein the antibacterial auxiliary agent is a zinc ion antibacterial agent;
    所述成定型中添加成定型助剂Ⅱ,所述成定型助剂Ⅱ包括滑爽手感助剂。The styling auxiliary agent II is added in the styling, and the styling auxiliary agent II includes a smooth hand feeling auxiliary agent.
  26. 根据权利要求23所述的色织面料的制造方法,所述滑爽手感助剂包括吸湿排汗剂和/或柔软剂。22. The method for manufacturing a yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 23, wherein the slippery feel aid includes a moisture wicking agent and/or a softening agent.
  27. 一种服装,其特征在于,所述的服装由色织面料制成,所述的色织面料选自权利要求1-11中任一项所述的色织面料和,权利要求12-26中任一项所述的方法制造的色织面料中的至少一种。A garment, characterized in that the garment is made of yarn-dyed fabrics, and the yarn-dyed fabrics are selected from the yarn-dyed fabrics of any one of claims 1-11 and, in claims 12-26 At least one of the yarn-dyed fabrics manufactured by any one of the methods.
  28. 根据权利要求27所述的色织面料的制造方法,所述的服装为衬衫。The method for manufacturing a yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 27, wherein the clothing is a shirt.
PCT/CN2019/121549 2019-11-20 2019-11-28 Polyester imitation cotton yarn-dyed fabric, and manufacturing method and use therefor WO2021097886A1 (en)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2021547695A JP7433332B2 (en) 2019-11-20 2019-11-28 Yarn-dyed cotton polyester fabric, its manufacturing method, and use
US17/432,464 US20220275576A1 (en) 2019-11-20 2019-11-28 Polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric, and manufacturing method and application thereof

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201911140910.9A CN110699826B (en) 2019-11-20 2019-11-20 Terylene cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric, and manufacturing method and application thereof
CN201911140910.9 2019-11-20

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2021097886A1 true WO2021097886A1 (en) 2021-05-27

Family

ID=69207532

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/CN2019/121549 WO2021097886A1 (en) 2019-11-20 2019-11-28 Polyester imitation cotton yarn-dyed fabric, and manufacturing method and use therefor

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US20220275576A1 (en)
JP (1) JP7433332B2 (en)
CN (1) CN110699826B (en)
WO (1) WO2021097886A1 (en)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN114134615A (en) * 2021-12-04 2022-03-04 广东威信纺织有限公司 Antiskid breathable elastic blended fabric tape and preparation method thereof

Families Citing this family (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112695441A (en) * 2020-12-18 2021-04-23 利郎(中国)有限公司 Nylon-viscose elastic cotton-like fabric and preparation method thereof
CN114481407A (en) * 2021-12-21 2022-05-13 江阴芗菲纺织科技有限公司 Production process of light and thin anti-ultraviolet woven fabric
CN115386998B (en) * 2022-06-10 2024-03-01 上海九裕纺织科技有限公司 Ultraviolet-resistant and penetration-resistant fabric and preparation process thereof
CN117026471B (en) * 2023-08-04 2024-05-24 广东启悦未来科技股份有限公司 Cotton-like spandex fabric and preparation method thereof

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20030190853A1 (en) * 1999-12-21 2003-10-09 Scott A. Lovingood Chambray fabric having unique characteristics and method of manufacturing same
CN103437103A (en) * 2013-08-16 2013-12-11 盛虹集团有限公司 Dyeing and finishing processing technology of polyester filament high-imitation cotton fabric
CN107700028A (en) * 2017-08-18 2018-02-16 佛山市捷邦纺织有限公司 A kind of color knits leisure fabric and its weaving process
CN109501416A (en) * 2018-10-26 2019-03-22 沈玉芳 A kind of production technology of the super imitative cotton face fabric of moisture absorption waterproof and breathable elastic flame
CN110306274A (en) * 2019-07-07 2019-10-08 徐州荣盛纺织整理有限公司 A kind of moisture-inhibiting Double-layer polyester fabric and preparation method thereof

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH10212640A (en) * 1997-01-20 1998-08-11 Toyobo Co Ltd Polyester stretch woven fabric and its production
CN102433729A (en) * 2011-09-20 2012-05-02 潘润华 Method for preparing cotton-like fabric through alkali decrement
CN103741417A (en) * 2014-01-03 2014-04-23 长兴新峰印染有限公司 Preparation method of high-imitation cotton printed fabric
CN109763240A (en) * 2018-12-27 2019-05-17 嘉兴市鸣竣纺织有限公司 A kind of production technology of terylene four sides stretch yarn dyed fabric

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20030190853A1 (en) * 1999-12-21 2003-10-09 Scott A. Lovingood Chambray fabric having unique characteristics and method of manufacturing same
CN103437103A (en) * 2013-08-16 2013-12-11 盛虹集团有限公司 Dyeing and finishing processing technology of polyester filament high-imitation cotton fabric
CN107700028A (en) * 2017-08-18 2018-02-16 佛山市捷邦纺织有限公司 A kind of color knits leisure fabric and its weaving process
CN109501416A (en) * 2018-10-26 2019-03-22 沈玉芳 A kind of production technology of the super imitative cotton face fabric of moisture absorption waterproof and breathable elastic flame
CN110306274A (en) * 2019-07-07 2019-10-08 徐州荣盛纺织整理有限公司 A kind of moisture-inhibiting Double-layer polyester fabric and preparation method thereof

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN114134615A (en) * 2021-12-04 2022-03-04 广东威信纺织有限公司 Antiskid breathable elastic blended fabric tape and preparation method thereof

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN110699826A (en) 2020-01-17
JP7433332B2 (en) 2024-02-19
JP2022519899A (en) 2022-03-25
CN110699826B (en) 2021-07-06
US20220275576A1 (en) 2022-09-01

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
WO2021097886A1 (en) Polyester imitation cotton yarn-dyed fabric, and manufacturing method and use therefor
CN106012214B (en) Jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man textile fabric and its production method
CN102080295B (en) Cotton-diacetate cellulose fiber jacquard fabric and processing method thereof
CN102797104B (en) Processing method of Sorona and silk clothes fabric
CN101302676B (en) Multi-component wool fabric and production process thereof
CN113684584B (en) Preparation method of pure cotton yarn-dyed high-count high-density non-ironing fabric
CN113005614B (en) Ice-cool high-shape-retention cotton-nylon fabric and manufacturing method thereof
CN101487158A (en) Anti-ultraviolet cool wool spinning fabric and method of manufacturing the same
CN109501416A (en) A kind of production technology of the super imitative cotton face fabric of moisture absorption waterproof and breathable elastic flame
CN101148801A (en) Cotton blended spinning elastic knitted underwear face fabric and processing technique thereof
CN108277570B (en) Functional gradient layer knitted fabric and preparation method thereof
CN111005230B (en) Sport cotton type fabric and production method thereof
CN107022827B (en) A kind of three chromatography small jacquard denim fabric of warp thread
CN114197200B (en) Manufacturing method of all-cotton durable conformal rib fabric
CN113417055B (en) Interwoven fabric of cotton fiber, spandex fiber and polyester fiber and production method
CN112553927B (en) Chitin silk fabric and processing technology thereof
CN110318139B (en) Preparation method of fiber fabric with ultraviolet resistance function
CN111575871A (en) Multifunctional blended fabric
CN115161843B (en) Processing method of natural antibacterial super-soft China hemp silk high-count high-density fine fabric
CN102851839A (en) Weaving technology of textile fabric
WO2020248928A1 (en) Preparation process of fabric containing copper ammonia fibers
CN111020805A (en) Preparation method of denim fabric
CN115449950B (en) Non-stretch yarn warp-weft double-stretch fabric and preparation method thereof
CN115782318B (en) Camel hair skin-friendly warm clothing fabric and production process thereof
CN213866644U (en) Cotton fiber composite fabric

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 19952995

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

ENP Entry into the national phase

Ref document number: 2021547695

Country of ref document: JP

Kind code of ref document: A

NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE

122 Ep: pct application non-entry in european phase

Ref document number: 19952995

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1