US20220275576A1 - Polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric, and manufacturing method and application thereof - Google Patents
Polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric, and manufacturing method and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- US20220275576A1 US20220275576A1 US17/432,464 US201917432464A US2022275576A1 US 20220275576 A1 US20220275576 A1 US 20220275576A1 US 201917432464 A US201917432464 A US 201917432464A US 2022275576 A1 US2022275576 A1 US 2022275576A1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
- D06L1/00—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
- D06L1/12—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using aqueous solvents
- D06L1/14—De-sizing
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
- D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/567—Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
- D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
- D06M13/188—Monocarboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/263—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated carboxylic acids; Salts or esters thereof
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/16—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/34—Material containing ester groups
- D06P3/52—Polyesters
- D06P3/54—Polyesters using dispersed dyestuffs
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- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
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- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/32—Polyesters
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- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/38—Polyurethanes
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- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/40—Reduced friction resistance, lubricant properties; Sizing compositions
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- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
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- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/14—Dyeability
Definitions
- the application relates to a polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric, and a manufacturing method and application thereof, and belongs to the technical field of textiles.
- Yarn dyeing is a process of dyeing yarns or filaments and then weaving dyed yarns or filaments into cloth, can be divided into full yarn dyeing and half yarn dyeing, and refers to the process of dyeing yarns or filaments firstly and then weaving with dyed yarns. This fabric is called “yarn-dyed fabric”. Yarn dyeing is to dye yarns firstly, then weave cloth, and finally carry out after-finishing; while piece dyeing is to put primary color grey cloth into a dye jigger for jig dyeing (or continuous process pad dyeing), and then carry out after-finishing.
- the application of woven cotton-like polyester in piece dyeing is relatively mature, but there is no precedent in yarn dyeing.
- the weaving process of a woven polyester yarn-dyed fabric is divided into twisting and sizing, which are both aimed at solving the weaving problem.
- the weaving quality of a fabric without twisting and sizing is not up to standard, and there is no yield.
- the existing twisted dyed yarns can be directly set, but the hand feeling of the twisted polyester dyed yarns is rough and hard, without cotton feeling. Sized yarns require desizing, and the poor color fastness of polyester yarns is a world-class problem.
- the main difficulty of desizing after sizing of polyester yarns lies in the completeness of desizing and the protection of color.
- the existing desizing process such as open-width washing desizing, belongs to protective desizing, and the desizing is not complete, so there is no cotton feeling on the yarn-dyed fabric, and there is no good scheme for the sizing and desizing processes of the yarn-dyed fabric. How to completely remove sizes, have cotton feeling and at the same time protect the accuracy and vividness of color needs to be urgently solved.
- a polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric and a manufacturing method and application thereof.
- the polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric has good cotton feeling, high elasticity, high color fastness and low ironing shrinkage rate, and is suitable for making high-quality clothing, especially shirts.
- the manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabric is energy-saving and emission-reducing, and a novel polyester yarn-dyed fabric with low ironing shrinkage rate, high color fastness and cotton-like hand feeling is manufactured.
- Using the yarn-dyed fabric for making clothing such as shirts increases the selectivity and functionality.
- a yarn-dyed fabric which has good cotton feeling, high elasticity, high color fastness and low ironing shrinkage rate.
- the yarn-dyed fabric is interwoven by warp and weft, wherein the warp adopts dyed polyester as a covering layer and low-temperature spandex as a core-spun yarn of a core yarn, the weight ratio of the polyester to the low-temperature spandex is 4-49:1, and the polyester is subjected to alkali deweighting treatment to form an eroded surface.
- the weight ratio of the polyester to the low-temperature spandex is 10-30:1.
- the weight ratio of the polyester to the low-temperature spandex is 10-15:1. More preferably, the weight ratio of the polyester to the low-temperature spandex is 13-14:1.
- the fineness of the low-temperature spandex is 20D-40D
- the core-spun yarn is made of polyester and low-temperature spandex by a machine packaging process, with a twist of 5-8 twist/cm and a draw ratio of 2.5-3.5.
- the upper limit of the fineness range of the low-temperature spandex is selected from 25D, 30D and 35D
- the lower limit of the fineness range of the low-temperature spandex is selected from 25D, 30D and 35D.
- the twist is 5-6 twist/cm
- the draw ratio is 3.
- Low temperature spandex with twist lower than 5 twist/cm affects the yarn-dyed fabric, while low temperature spandex with twist higher than 8 twist/cm increases roughness of the yarn-dyed fabric and enables the hand feeling of the yarn-dyed fabric to be unqualified.
- the low-temperature spandex is dyed or not dyed, and the dye used for dyeing the low-temperature spandex is a disperse dye with high temperature resistance, washing resistance and alkali resistance.
- Low temperature spandex is used to reduce the temperature required for setting and control the ironing shrinkage rate.
- the use of low-temperature spandex can reduce the setting temperature and time, control the thermal sublimation of disperse dyes of yarn-dyed yarns, improve the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric, and save energy and reduce emissions.
- the deweighting rate of alkali deweighting treatment carried out on the polyester is not higher than 5%.
- the deweighting rate of alkali deweighting treatment carried out on the polyester is 1%-3%.
- the polyester is selected from at least one of polyester filament, polyester composite fiber and polyester staple fiber.
- the polyester filament is selected from at least one of draw textured yarn DTY, fully drawn yarn FDY, air textured yarn ATY and high stretch yarn; the polyester composite fiber includes elastic composite polyester fiber T400, and the polyester staple fiber includes cotton-like polyester.
- the polyester is polyester with F number not lower than 24. Further, the polyester is high F number dull polyester DTY.
- the yarn-dyed fabric manufactured by the setting mode of this polyester has a strong cotton feeling.
- the weft is selected from at least one of polyester, spandex, cotton yarn and the same composition as the warp. More preferably, the weft is selected from the same composition as the warp, polyester DTY, FDY, ATY, high stretch yarn, T400 and other cotton-like polyester. Further, the weft includes 75D/72F dull polyester DTY.
- the dye used for dyeing the polyester is a disperse dye with high temperature resistance, washing resistance and alkali resistance, and the dyeing temperature of the dye is 130 ⁇ 5° C. More preferably, the dye includes DyStar's disperse dye with high temperature resistance, washing resistance and alkali resistance.
- the dyeing time of polyester is 30-60 min, and the setting of this dyeing time makes the polyester be subjected to full splitting to open the fiber network points of polyester.
- the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric measured according to GB/T3920-2008 is not lower than grade 4.
- the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric measured according to GB/T3920-2008 is not lower than grade 5.
- the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric measured according to GB/T 5718-1997 Textiles—Tests for color fastness—Color fastness to dry heat (excluding hot pressing) is not lower than grade 4.
- the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric measured according to GB/T 5718-1997 Textiles—Tests for color fastness—Color fastness to dry heat (excluding hot pressing) is not lower than grade 5.
- the ironing shrinkage rate of the yarn-dyed fabric treated for 6 times at 170° C. and for 15 s is not higher than 3%, and the control of the ironing shrinkage rate fully ensures the comfort of the elastic fabric, and the low-temperature spandex is helpful to control of the ironing shrinkage rate of the elastic fabric.
- the manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabric is energy-saving and emission-reducing, and a novel polyester yarn-dyed fabric with low ironing shrinkage rate, high color fastness and cotton-like hand feeling is manufactured.
- the manufacturing method of the polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric includes the following steps:
- first desizing performing continuous desizing on the coarse yarn-dyed fabric by a desizing mixed solution I, wherein a temperature of the first desizing is 91-91.5° C. and a time of the first desizing is not more than 20 min, and the desizing mixed solution I includes 2-3 wt % of strong alkali and 2-3 wt % of desizing agent;
- pre-setting enabling a temperature of the pre-setting to be 180-200° C.
- second desizing performing intermittent desizing by a desizing mixed solution II, wherein a temperature of the second desizing is 60-90° C. and a time of the second desizing is not more than 45 min, and the desizing mixed solution II includes 2-5 wt % of strong alkali and 2-5 wt % of sodium hydrosulfite;
- setting enabling a temperature of the setting to be 100-140° C., so as to obtain the yarn-dyed fabric
- the warp includes dyed polyester yarns as a covering layer and low-temperature spandex as a core-spun yarn of the core yarn; sizes for the sizing include acrylic sizes.
- the dye used in the dyed polyester is a disperse dye with high temperature resistance, washing resistance and alkali resistance.
- the dyeing temperature is 130 ⁇ 5° C.
- the dyeing time of polyester is 30-60 min, and the setting of this dyeing time makes the polyester be subjected to full splitting to open the fiber network points of polyester.
- the fineness of the low-temperature spandex is 20D-40D
- the core-spun yarn is made of polyester and low-temperature spandex by a machine packaging process, with a twist of 5-8 twist/cm and a draw ratio of 2.5-3.5. More preferably, the twist is 5-6 twist/cm, and the draw ratio is 3.
- the temperature of the sizing is 130 ⁇ 5° C., and the temperature of the sizing is low-temperature sizing. More preferably, the concentration of the size is 10-15 wt %, and the speed of sizing is 40-50 m/min. Further preferably, the concentration of the size is 12 wt %, and the speed of sizing is 45 m/min.
- the size has low concentration, so that high-quality weaving can be realized, and finishing and desizing are facilitated.
- the sizing process is that a sectional warping machine makes warp beams, and the warp beams are subjected to beaming for sizing, which saves time and reduces errors.
- a loom used for weaving is a water jet loom.
- the water-jet loom is used for chemical fiber products, and has less static influence, and water also has a swelling effect on sizes, and some sizes will fall off in advance during weaving.
- the continuous desizing is desizing with a continuous process desizing machine
- the first desizing temperature is set as 91° C.
- the desizing speed is 40-50 m/min
- the first desizing time is not more than 15 min.
- the first desizing temperature is lower than 91° C.
- the desizing rate is low
- the first desizing temperature is higher than 91.5° C., the stain is obvious.
- the first desizing can not only remove most of the sizes and realize the preshrinking of the yarn-dyed fabric, but also keep the color of the yarn-dyed fabric.
- the speed of the pre-setting is 30-40 m/min.
- the first desizing has the function of pre-shrinking, and the fabric is pre-set after the first desizing so that the fabric has shape retention.
- the intermittent desizing is in-jigger washing.
- the temperature of the second desizing is 70° C. and the time is not more than 15 min, and the desizing mixed solution II includes 4-5 wt % of strong alkali and 4-5 wt % of sodium hydrosulfite.
- the desizing mixed solution II also includes 0.5-2 g/L of degreasing agent.
- the second desizing includes the following steps: washing the desizing mixed solution II and the yarn-dyed fabric once, adding 0.5-2 g/L of hydrophilic softening agent, washing once, and discharging water twice or waiting until water is completely discharged.
- the second desizing is used for washing the yarn-dyed fabric, so that the sizes of the yarn-dyed fabric can be completely removed, and the polyester in the yarn-dyed fabric is subjected to alkali deweighting corrosion, thereby improving the cotton feeling.
- the speed of the setting is 30-50 m/min.
- the setting temperature is set as 100-140° C., thus the setting belongs to low-temperature setting, which is beneficial to control of the color retention, ironing rate and hand feeling of the yarn-dyed fabric.
- the strong alkali is selected from at least one of potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide and sodium carbonate.
- the strong alkali is sodium hydroxide.
- a pre-setting auxiliary agent I is added during the pre-setting, and the pre-setting auxiliary agent I includes a dry hand feeling auxiliary agent and acetic acid.
- the dry hand feeling auxiliary agent includes an antibacterial auxiliary agent.
- the antibacterial auxiliary agent is a zinc ion antibacterial agent.
- the pre-setting auxiliary agent I includes 2 wt ⁇ of zinc ion antibacterial agent and 4 wt ⁇ of acetic acid. Acetic acid can neutralize some alkali liquor left after desizing.
- Chemical fiber shirt fabrics need the function of moisture absorption and perspiration, in the process of wicking, a large number of human body metabolic wastes remain in the fabric, and microorganisms and bacteria are prone to breed, the first point is that the skin health is affected, the second point is that the microorganisms and bacteria are prone to stink during growth, so it is necessary to add antibacterial agents.
- functional auxiliary agents are added in the setting step, and in this application, the dry hand feeling auxiliary agent is added in the pre-setting step to improve the dry performance of the yarn-dyed fabric.
- a setting auxiliary agent II is added during the setting, and the setting auxiliary agent II includes a smooth hand feeling auxiliary agent.
- the smooth hand feeling auxiliary agent includes a moisture absorption and perspiration agent and/or a softening agent. More preferably, the smooth hand feeling auxiliary agent includes 3 wt % of moisture absorption and perspiration agent and 3 wt % of softening agent, and the setting auxiliary agent II also includes 2 wt ⁇ of antibacterial agent.
- the setting auxiliary agent II can make the yarn-dyed fabric keep cotton-like hand feeling and functionality.
- the clothing is made of the yarn-dyed fabric, and the yarn-dyed fabric is selected from at least one of the yarn-dyed fabrics described above and the yarn-dyed fabrics manufactured by any one of the methods described above.
- the color fastness to soaping is measured by the method D(4) in GB/T3921-2008 Textiles—Tests for color fastness—Color fastness to soaping, and the color fastness to rubbing is measured according to GB/T3920-2008 Textiles—Tests for color fastness—Color fastness to rubbing.
- the polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric according to this application has good cotton feeling, high elasticity, high color fastness and low ironing shrinkage rate, and is suitable for making high-quality clothing, especially shirts.
- the manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabric according to this application saves energy and reduces emissions, and can manufacture a novel polyester yarn-dyed fabric with low ironing shrinkage rate, high color fastness and cotton-like hand feeling.
- Clothing according to this application is provided, and use of the yarn-dyed fabric for making clothing such as shirts increases the selectivity and functionality.
- the raw materials and catalysts in the embodiments of the present application are purchased through commercial channels.
- Color fastness to soaping measured referring to the method D (4) in GB/T3921-2008 Textiles—Tests for color fastness—Color fastness to soaping.
- Color fastness to rubbing measured referring to the method GB/T3920-2008 Textiles—Tests for color fastness—Color fastness to rubbing.
- Color fastness to sublimation measured referring to GB/T 5718-1997 Textiles—Tests for color fastness-Color fastness to dry heat (excluding hot pressing).
- Ironing shrinkage rate tested after the yarn-dyed fabric is treated for 6 times at 170° C. and for 15 s.
- Cotton feeling determined according to the hand feeling of 10 people for the polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric:
- a manufacturing method of the polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric includes the following steps:
- interweaving provided weft and sized warp to weave a coarse yarn-dyed fabric, wherein the warp includes dyed polyester yarns as a covering layer and low-temperature spandex as a core-spun yarn of the core yarn, and sizes for the sizing include acrylic sizes;
- first desizing performing continuous desizing on the coarse yarn-dyed fabric by a desizing mixed solution I, wherein a temperature of the first desizing is 91-91.5° C. and a time of the first desizing is not more than 20 min, and the desizing mixed solution I includes 2-3 wt % of strong alkali and 2-3 wt % of desizing agent;
- pre-setting enabling a temperature of the pre-setting to be 180-200° C.
- second desizing performing intermittent desizing by a desizing mixed solution II, wherein a temperature of the second desizing is 60-90° C. and a time of the second desizing is not more than 45 min, and the desizing mixed solution II includes 2-5 wt % of strong alkali and 2-5 wt % of sodium hydrosulfite;
- setting enabling a temperature of the setting to be 100-140° C., so as to obtain the yarn-dyed fabric.
- dyeing polyester dyeing polyester with DyStar's disperse dye with high temperature resistance, washing resistance and alkali resistance, wherein the dyeing temperature was 130° C., and the dyeing time of polyester was 40 min;
- warp sizing sizing the core-spun yarn at 130° C. using acrylic sizes with the size concentration of 12 wt %, wherein the sizing process is that a sectional warping machine makes a weaving beam, and the weaving beam is subjected to beaming for sizing with the sizing speed of 45 m/minute;
- first desizing performing continuous desizing (continuous process desizing) on the coarse yarn-dyed fabric by a desizing mixed solution I, wherein the temperature of the first desizing is 91-91.5° C. and the time is not more than 20 min, the speed is 45 m/min, and the desizing mixed solution I includes 2-3 wt % of strong alkali and 2-3 wt % of desizing agent;
- pre-setting enabling the temperature of the pre-setting to be 190° C. and the speed to be 35 m/min, adding the antibacterial agent with the concentration of about 2 wt ⁇ for the first time, and adding acetic acid with the concentration of about 4 wt ⁇ to neutralize the alkali liquor left after desizing;
- second desizing performing intermittent desizing (in-jigger washing) by a desizing mixed solution II, washing once, adding 1 g/L of softening agent, washing once, and discharging water twice or waiting until water is completely discharged, wherein the temperature of the second desizing is 60-90° C. and the time is not more than 45 min, and the desizing mixed solution II includes 2 g/L of sodium hydroxide, 2 g/L of sodium hydrosulfite and 1 g/L of degreasing agent;
- Yarn-dyed fabrics 2 #, 3 # are manufactured according to the method of Embodiment 1, and embodiment 2 is different from Embodiment 1 in that the yarn-dyed fabrics 2 #, 3 # are respectively obtained by adopting the weight ratio of polyester to low-temperature spandex used for warp being 3 and 52, and the yarn-dyed fabrics 2 #, 3 # are extremely poor in hand feeling, elasticity and strength; the yarn-dyed fabric 3 # has hard hand feeling, poor moisture absorption and poor cotton feeling.
- Yarn-dyed fabrics 4 #, 5 # were manufactured according to the method of Embodiment 1, and Embodiment 3 is different from Embodiment 1 in that the yarn-dyed fabrics 4 #, 5 # are respectively obtained by adopting the twist of low-temperature spandex used for warp being 4 twist/cm and 9 twist/cm, the yarn-dyed fabric 4 # has some parts where low-temperature spandex is exposed, and the yarn-dyed fabric 5 # has poor hand feeling.
- the yarn-dyed fabric 6 # was manufactured according to the method of Embodiment 1, and Embodiment 4 is different from Embodiment 1 in that:
- the yarn-dyed fabric 6 # is obtained under the condition that the spandex used in step B is normal-temperature spandex, the dyeing temperature is 150° C., and the dyeing time is 20 min.
- Performance test color fastness to soaping is grade 3, color fastness to rubbing is grade 3 and color fastness to sublimation is grade 3; ironing shrinkage rate is not higher than 5%; cotton feeling is good.
- Yarn-dyed fabric 7 #, 8 # was manufactured according to the method of Embodiment 1, and Embodiment 5 is different from Embodiment 1 in that:
- the yarn-dyed fabrics 7 #, 8 # are respectively obtained under the condition that in step 2), the desizing temperatures in the first desizing are 92.5° C. and 90.5° C.
- Performance test of yarn-dyed fabric 7 # the fabric is stained and the quality is unqualified.
- Performance test of yarn-dyed fabric 8 # cotton feeling is poor and desizing is not complete.
- the yarn-dyed fabric 9 # was manufactured according to the method of Embodiment 1, and Embodiment 6 is different from Embodiment 1 in that:
- the yarn-dyed fabric 9 # is obtained under the condition that no antibacterial auxiliary agent was added in step 2), and 4 wt ⁇ antibacterial agent was added in step 5) of setting.
- Yarn-dyed fabric 10 # was manufactured according to the method of Embodiment 1, and Embodiment 7 is different from Embodiment 1 in that:
- Step 2) first desizing: enabling a desizing mixed solution I to include 4 wt % of strong alkali and 2-3 wt % of desizing agent.
- step 4) second desizing: performing intermittent desizing (in-jigger washing) by a desizing mixed solution II, washing once, adding 1 g/L of softening agent, washing once, and discharging water twice or waiting until water is completely discharged, wherein the temperature of the second desizing is 60-90° C. and the time is not more than 45 min, and the desizing mixed solution II includes 6 g/L of sodium hydroxide, 2 g/L of sodium hydrosulfite and 1 g/L of degreasing agent.
- Yarn-dyed fabric 11 # was manufactured according to the method of Embodiment 1, and Embodiment 8 is different from Embodiment 1 in that: steps 4) and 5) are not performed.
- Yarn-dyed fabric 12 # was manufactured according to the method of Embodiment 1, and Embodiment 9 is different from Embodiment 1 in that: step 2) is not performed.
Abstract
Disclosed are a polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric, and a manufacturing method and application thereof. The polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric is interwoven by warp and weft, the warp adopts dyed polyester as a covering layer and low-temperature spandex as a core-spun yarn of a core yarn, a weight ratio of the polyester to the low-temperature spandex is 4-49:1, and the polyester is subjected to alkali deweighting treatment to form an eroded surface. The polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric has good cotton feeling, high elasticity, high color fastness and low ironing shrinkage rate, and is suitable for making high-quality clothing, especially shirts. The manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabric is energy-saving and emission-reducing, and can manufacture a novel polyester yarn-dyed fabric with low ironing shrinkage rate, high color fastness and cotton-like hand feeling. Use of the yarn-dyed fabric for making clothing such as shirts increases the selectivity and functionality.
Description
- This application claims the priority to Chinese Patent Application No. 201911140910.9 filed to the Patent Office of the People's Republic of China on Nov. 20, 2019 and entitled “POLYESTER COTTON-LIKE YARN-DYED FABRIC, AND MANUFACTURING METHOD AND APPLICATION THEREOF”, the entire contents of which are hereby incorporated herein by reference.
- The application relates to a polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric, and a manufacturing method and application thereof, and belongs to the technical field of textiles.
- Yarn dyeing is a process of dyeing yarns or filaments and then weaving dyed yarns or filaments into cloth, can be divided into full yarn dyeing and half yarn dyeing, and refers to the process of dyeing yarns or filaments firstly and then weaving with dyed yarns. This fabric is called “yarn-dyed fabric”. Yarn dyeing is to dye yarns firstly, then weave cloth, and finally carry out after-finishing; while piece dyeing is to put primary color grey cloth into a dye jigger for jig dyeing (or continuous process pad dyeing), and then carry out after-finishing. The application of woven cotton-like polyester in piece dyeing is relatively mature, but there is no precedent in yarn dyeing.
- The weaving process of a woven polyester yarn-dyed fabric is divided into twisting and sizing, which are both aimed at solving the weaving problem. The weaving quality of a fabric without twisting and sizing is not up to standard, and there is no yield. The existing twisted dyed yarns can be directly set, but the hand feeling of the twisted polyester dyed yarns is rough and hard, without cotton feeling. Sized yarns require desizing, and the poor color fastness of polyester yarns is a world-class problem. The main difficulty of desizing after sizing of polyester yarns lies in the completeness of desizing and the protection of color. The existing desizing process, such as open-width washing desizing, belongs to protective desizing, and the desizing is not complete, so there is no cotton feeling on the yarn-dyed fabric, and there is no good scheme for the sizing and desizing processes of the yarn-dyed fabric. How to completely remove sizes, have cotton feeling and at the same time protect the accuracy and vividness of color needs to be urgently solved.
- However, when a woven polyester yarn-dyed fabric is used in the manufacture of high-quality clothing, such as shirts, comfort, shape retention and color stability are required.
- In order to solve the foregoing problem, there is provided a polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric, and a manufacturing method and application thereof. The polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric has good cotton feeling, high elasticity, high color fastness and low ironing shrinkage rate, and is suitable for making high-quality clothing, especially shirts. The manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabric is energy-saving and emission-reducing, and a novel polyester yarn-dyed fabric with low ironing shrinkage rate, high color fastness and cotton-like hand feeling is manufactured. Using the yarn-dyed fabric for making clothing such as shirts increases the selectivity and functionality.
- According to one aspect of this application, there is provided a yarn-dyed fabric, which has good cotton feeling, high elasticity, high color fastness and low ironing shrinkage rate.
- The yarn-dyed fabric is interwoven by warp and weft, wherein the warp adopts dyed polyester as a covering layer and low-temperature spandex as a core-spun yarn of a core yarn, the weight ratio of the polyester to the low-temperature spandex is 4-49:1, and the polyester is subjected to alkali deweighting treatment to form an eroded surface.
- Further, the weight ratio of the polyester to the low-temperature spandex is 10-30:1. Preferably, the weight ratio of the polyester to the low-temperature spandex is 10-15:1. More preferably, the weight ratio of the polyester to the low-temperature spandex is 13-14:1.
- Alternatively, the fineness of the low-temperature spandex is 20D-40D, and the core-spun yarn is made of polyester and low-temperature spandex by a machine packaging process, with a twist of 5-8 twist/cm and a draw ratio of 2.5-3.5. Preferably, the upper limit of the fineness range of the low-temperature spandex is selected from 25D, 30D and 35D, and the lower limit of the fineness range of the low-temperature spandex is selected from 25D, 30D and 35D. Preferably, the twist is 5-6 twist/cm, and the draw ratio is 3. Low temperature spandex with twist lower than 5 twist/cm affects the yarn-dyed fabric, while low temperature spandex with twist higher than 8 twist/cm increases roughness of the yarn-dyed fabric and enables the hand feeling of the yarn-dyed fabric to be unqualified.
- Alternatively, the low-temperature spandex is dyed or not dyed, and the dye used for dyeing the low-temperature spandex is a disperse dye with high temperature resistance, washing resistance and alkali resistance.
- Low temperature spandex is used to reduce the temperature required for setting and control the ironing shrinkage rate. The use of low-temperature spandex can reduce the setting temperature and time, control the thermal sublimation of disperse dyes of yarn-dyed yarns, improve the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric, and save energy and reduce emissions.
- Alternatively, the deweighting rate of alkali deweighting treatment carried out on the polyester is not higher than 5%. Preferably, the deweighting rate of alkali deweighting treatment carried out on the polyester is 1%-3%.
- Alternatively, the polyester is selected from at least one of polyester filament, polyester composite fiber and polyester staple fiber.
- Preferably, the polyester filament is selected from at least one of draw textured yarn DTY, fully drawn yarn FDY, air textured yarn ATY and high stretch yarn; the polyester composite fiber includes elastic composite polyester fiber T400, and the polyester staple fiber includes cotton-like polyester.
- More preferably, the polyester is polyester with F number not lower than 24. Further, the polyester is high F number dull polyester DTY. The yarn-dyed fabric manufactured by the setting mode of this polyester has a strong cotton feeling.
- Preferably, the weft is selected from at least one of polyester, spandex, cotton yarn and the same composition as the warp. More preferably, the weft is selected from the same composition as the warp, polyester DTY, FDY, ATY, high stretch yarn, T400 and other cotton-like polyester. Further, the weft includes 75D/72F dull polyester DTY.
- Preferably, the dye used for dyeing the polyester is a disperse dye with high temperature resistance, washing resistance and alkali resistance, and the dyeing temperature of the dye is 130±5° C. More preferably, the dye includes DyStar's disperse dye with high temperature resistance, washing resistance and alkali resistance. The dyeing time of polyester is 30-60 min, and the setting of this dyeing time makes the polyester be subjected to full splitting to open the fiber network points of polyester.
- Alternatively, the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric measured according to GB/T3920-2008 is not lower than grade 4. Preferably, the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric measured according to GB/T3920-2008 is not lower than grade 5.
- Alternatively, the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric measured according to GB/T 5718-1997 Textiles—Tests for color fastness—Color fastness to dry heat (excluding hot pressing) is not lower than grade 4. Preferably, the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric measured according to GB/T 5718-1997 Textiles—Tests for color fastness—Color fastness to dry heat (excluding hot pressing) is not lower than grade 5.
- Alternatively, the ironing shrinkage rate of the yarn-dyed fabric treated for 6 times at 170° C. and for 15 s is not higher than 3%, and the control of the ironing shrinkage rate fully ensures the comfort of the elastic fabric, and the low-temperature spandex is helpful to control of the ironing shrinkage rate of the elastic fabric.
- According to another aspect of this application, there is provided a manufacturing method of any one of the polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabrics described above, the manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabric is energy-saving and emission-reducing, and a novel polyester yarn-dyed fabric with low ironing shrinkage rate, high color fastness and cotton-like hand feeling is manufactured.
- The manufacturing method of the polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric includes the following steps:
- 1) interweaving provided weft and sized warp to weave a coarse yarn-dyed fabric;
- 2) first desizing: performing continuous desizing on the coarse yarn-dyed fabric by a desizing mixed solution I, wherein a temperature of the first desizing is 91-91.5° C. and a time of the first desizing is not more than 20 min, and the desizing mixed solution I includes 2-3 wt % of strong alkali and 2-3 wt % of desizing agent;
- 3) pre-setting: enabling a temperature of the pre-setting to be 180-200° C.;
- 4) second desizing: performing intermittent desizing by a desizing mixed solution II, wherein a temperature of the second desizing is 60-90° C. and a time of the second desizing is not more than 45 min, and the desizing mixed solution II includes 2-5 wt % of strong alkali and 2-5 wt % of sodium hydrosulfite;
- 5) setting: enabling a temperature of the setting to be 100-140° C., so as to obtain the yarn-dyed fabric;
- wherein, the warp includes dyed polyester yarns as a covering layer and low-temperature spandex as a core-spun yarn of the core yarn; sizes for the sizing include acrylic sizes.
- Alternatively, the dye used in the dyed polyester is a disperse dye with high temperature resistance, washing resistance and alkali resistance. Preferably, the dyeing temperature is 130±5° C. The dyeing time of polyester is 30-60 min, and the setting of this dyeing time makes the polyester be subjected to full splitting to open the fiber network points of polyester.
- Preferably, the fineness of the low-temperature spandex is 20D-40D, and the core-spun yarn is made of polyester and low-temperature spandex by a machine packaging process, with a twist of 5-8 twist/cm and a draw ratio of 2.5-3.5. More preferably, the twist is 5-6 twist/cm, and the draw ratio is 3.
- Preferably, the temperature of the sizing is 130±5° C., and the temperature of the sizing is low-temperature sizing. More preferably, the concentration of the size is 10-15 wt %, and the speed of sizing is 40-50 m/min. Further preferably, the concentration of the size is 12 wt %, and the speed of sizing is 45 m/min. The size has low concentration, so that high-quality weaving can be realized, and finishing and desizing are facilitated. The sizing process is that a sectional warping machine makes warp beams, and the warp beams are subjected to beaming for sizing, which saves time and reduces errors.
- Preferably, a loom used for weaving is a water jet loom. Compared with an air-jet loom, the water-jet loom is used for chemical fiber products, and has less static influence, and water also has a swelling effect on sizes, and some sizes will fall off in advance during weaving.
- Preferably, the continuous desizing is desizing with a continuous process desizing machine, the first desizing temperature is set as 91° C., the desizing speed is 40-50 m/min, and the first desizing time is not more than 15 min. When the first desizing temperature is lower than 91° C., the desizing rate is low, and when the first desizing temperature is higher than 91.5° C., the stain is obvious. The first desizing can not only remove most of the sizes and realize the preshrinking of the yarn-dyed fabric, but also keep the color of the yarn-dyed fabric.
- Preferably, the speed of the pre-setting is 30-40 m/min. The first desizing has the function of pre-shrinking, and the fabric is pre-set after the first desizing so that the fabric has shape retention.
- Preferably, the intermittent desizing is in-jigger washing. The temperature of the second desizing is 70° C. and the time is not more than 15 min, and the desizing mixed solution II includes 4-5 wt % of strong alkali and 4-5 wt % of sodium hydrosulfite. The desizing mixed solution II also includes 0.5-2 g/L of degreasing agent. The second desizing includes the following steps: washing the desizing mixed solution II and the yarn-dyed fabric once, adding 0.5-2 g/L of hydrophilic softening agent, washing once, and discharging water twice or waiting until water is completely discharged. The second desizing is used for washing the yarn-dyed fabric, so that the sizes of the yarn-dyed fabric can be completely removed, and the polyester in the yarn-dyed fabric is subjected to alkali deweighting corrosion, thereby improving the cotton feeling.
- Preferably, the speed of the setting is 30-50 m/min. During setting, further setting is carried out on the yarn-dyed fabric, and the setting temperature is set as 100-140° C., thus the setting belongs to low-temperature setting, which is beneficial to control of the color retention, ironing rate and hand feeling of the yarn-dyed fabric.
- Alternatively, the strong alkali is selected from at least one of potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide and sodium carbonate. Preferably, the strong alkali is sodium hydroxide.
- Alternatively, a pre-setting auxiliary agent I is added during the pre-setting, and the pre-setting auxiliary agent I includes a dry hand feeling auxiliary agent and acetic acid. Preferably, the dry hand feeling auxiliary agent includes an antibacterial auxiliary agent. More preferably, the antibacterial auxiliary agent is a zinc ion antibacterial agent. Further preferably, the pre-setting auxiliary agent I includes 2 wt ‰ of zinc ion antibacterial agent and 4 wt ‰ of acetic acid. Acetic acid can neutralize some alkali liquor left after desizing. Chemical fiber shirt fabrics need the function of moisture absorption and perspiration, in the process of wicking, a large number of human body metabolic wastes remain in the fabric, and microorganisms and bacteria are prone to breed, the first point is that the skin health is affected, the second point is that the microorganisms and bacteria are prone to stink during growth, so it is necessary to add antibacterial agents. In the prior art, functional auxiliary agents are added in the setting step, and in this application, the dry hand feeling auxiliary agent is added in the pre-setting step to improve the dry performance of the yarn-dyed fabric.
- Alternatively, a setting auxiliary agent II is added during the setting, and the setting auxiliary agent II includes a smooth hand feeling auxiliary agent. Preferably, the smooth hand feeling auxiliary agent includes a moisture absorption and perspiration agent and/or a softening agent. More preferably, the smooth hand feeling auxiliary agent includes 3 wt % of moisture absorption and perspiration agent and 3 wt % of softening agent, and the setting auxiliary agent II also includes 2 wt ‰ of antibacterial agent. The setting auxiliary agent II can make the yarn-dyed fabric keep cotton-like hand feeling and functionality.
- According to still another aspect of this application, there is provided clothing, wherein use of the yarn-dyed fabric for making clothing such as shirts increases the selectivity and functionality.
- The clothing is made of the yarn-dyed fabric, and the yarn-dyed fabric is selected from at least one of the yarn-dyed fabrics described above and the yarn-dyed fabrics manufactured by any one of the methods described above.
- In this application, the color fastness to soaping is measured by the method D(4) in GB/T3921-2008 Textiles—Tests for color fastness—Color fastness to soaping, and the color fastness to rubbing is measured according to GB/T3920-2008 Textiles—Tests for color fastness—Color fastness to rubbing.
- The beneficial effects of the present application include, but are not limited to:
- 1. The polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric according to this application has good cotton feeling, high elasticity, high color fastness and low ironing shrinkage rate, and is suitable for making high-quality clothing, especially shirts.
- 2. The manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabric according to this application saves energy and reduces emissions, and can manufacture a novel polyester yarn-dyed fabric with low ironing shrinkage rate, high color fastness and cotton-like hand feeling.
- 3. Clothing according to this application is provided, and use of the yarn-dyed fabric for making clothing such as shirts increases the selectivity and functionality.
- The present application will be described in detail below with reference to embodiments, but the present application is not limited to these embodiments.
- Unless otherwise specified, the raw materials and catalysts in the embodiments of the present application are purchased through commercial channels.
- The analysis methods in the embodiments of the present application are as follows:
- 1. Color fastness
- Color fastness to soaping: measured referring to the method D (4) in GB/T3921-2008 Textiles—Tests for color fastness—Color fastness to soaping.
- Color fastness to rubbing: measured referring to the method GB/T3920-2008 Textiles—Tests for color fastness—Color fastness to rubbing.
- Color fastness to sublimation: measured referring to GB/T 5718-1997 Textiles—Tests for color fastness-Color fastness to dry heat (excluding hot pressing).
- 2. Ironing shrinkage rate: tested after the yarn-dyed fabric is treated for 6 times at 170° C. and for 15 s.
- 3. Elasticity test standard: FZ/T01034 Textiles—Test method of the tensile elasticity for woven fabrics.
- 4. Cotton feeling: determined according to the hand feeling of 10 people for the polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric:
- excellent: soft, elastic and thick; good: with some smoothness and droop; poor: strong sense of paper or strong sense of coarseness and hardness.
- According to one implementation of this application, a manufacturing method of the polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric includes the following steps:
- 1) interweaving provided weft and sized warp to weave a coarse yarn-dyed fabric, wherein the warp includes dyed polyester yarns as a covering layer and low-temperature spandex as a core-spun yarn of the core yarn, and sizes for the sizing include acrylic sizes;
- 2) first desizing: performing continuous desizing on the coarse yarn-dyed fabric by a desizing mixed solution I, wherein a temperature of the first desizing is 91-91.5° C. and a time of the first desizing is not more than 20 min, and the desizing mixed solution I includes 2-3 wt % of strong alkali and 2-3 wt % of desizing agent;
- 3) pre-setting: enabling a temperature of the pre-setting to be 180-200° C.;
- 4) second desizing: performing intermittent desizing by a desizing mixed solution II, wherein a temperature of the second desizing is 60-90° C. and a time of the second desizing is not more than 45 min, and the desizing mixed solution II includes 2-5 wt % of strong alkali and 2-5 wt % of sodium hydrosulfite;
- 5) setting: enabling a temperature of the setting to be 100-140° C., so as to obtain the yarn-dyed fabric.
- 1) A, providing raw materials: providing polyester and low-temperature spandex with a weight ratio being 13.5:1, wherein the polyester is 75D/72F dull polyester DTY, and the low-temperature spandex is a novel low-temperature spandex with a fineness of 30D;
- B, dyeing polyester: dyeing polyester with DyStar's disperse dye with high temperature resistance, washing resistance and alkali resistance, wherein the dyeing temperature was 130° C., and the dyeing time of polyester was 40 min;
- C, preparation of warp and weft: producing a core-spun yarn with a twist of 5-6 twist/cm and a draw ratio of 3 by using the dyed polyester as a covering layer and low-temperature spandex as a core yarn with a machine packaging process;
- D, warp sizing: sizing the core-spun yarn at 130° C. using acrylic sizes with the size concentration of 12 wt %, wherein the sizing process is that a sectional warping machine makes a weaving beam, and the weaving beam is subjected to beaming for sizing with the sizing speed of 45 m/minute;
- E, weaving: interweaving warp and weft by adopting a water jet loom to obtain a coarse yarn-dyed fabric;
- 2) first desizing: performing continuous desizing (continuous process desizing) on the coarse yarn-dyed fabric by a desizing mixed solution I, wherein the temperature of the first desizing is 91-91.5° C. and the time is not more than 20 min, the speed is 45 m/min, and the desizing mixed solution I includes 2-3 wt % of strong alkali and 2-3 wt % of desizing agent;
- 3) pre-setting: enabling the temperature of the pre-setting to be 190° C. and the speed to be 35 m/min, adding the antibacterial agent with the concentration of about 2 wt ‰ for the first time, and adding acetic acid with the concentration of about 4 wt ‰ to neutralize the alkali liquor left after desizing;
- 4) second desizing: performing intermittent desizing (in-jigger washing) by a desizing mixed solution II, washing once, adding 1 g/L of softening agent, washing once, and discharging water twice or waiting until water is completely discharged, wherein the temperature of the second desizing is 60-90° C. and the time is not more than 45 min, and the desizing mixed solution II includes 2 g/L of sodium hydroxide, 2 g/L of sodium hydrosulfite and 1 g/L of degreasing agent;
- 5) setting: enabling the setting temperature to be 140° C. and the speed to be 35 m/min, and adding 2 wt ‰ of antibacterial agent, 3 wt % of moisture absorption and perspiration agent and 3 wt % of softening agent to make the yarn-dyed fabric 1 #.
- Performance test: color fastness to soaping is grade 5, color fastness to rubbing is grade 5 and color fastness to sublimation is grade 5; ironing shrinkage rate is not higher than 1%; cotton feeling is excellent.
- Yarn-dyed fabrics 2 #, 3 # are manufactured according to the method of Embodiment 1, and embodiment 2 is different from Embodiment 1 in that the yarn-dyed fabrics 2 #, 3 # are respectively obtained by adopting the weight ratio of polyester to low-temperature spandex used for warp being 3 and 52, and the yarn-dyed fabrics 2 #, 3 # are extremely poor in hand feeling, elasticity and strength; the yarn-dyed fabric 3 # has hard hand feeling, poor moisture absorption and poor cotton feeling.
- Yarn-dyed fabrics 4 #, 5 # were manufactured according to the method of Embodiment 1, and Embodiment 3 is different from Embodiment 1 in that the yarn-dyed fabrics 4 #, 5 # are respectively obtained by adopting the twist of low-temperature spandex used for warp being 4 twist/cm and 9 twist/cm, the yarn-dyed fabric 4 # has some parts where low-temperature spandex is exposed, and the yarn-dyed fabric 5 # has poor hand feeling.
- The yarn-dyed fabric 6 # was manufactured according to the method of Embodiment 1, and Embodiment 4 is different from Embodiment 1 in that:
- The yarn-dyed fabric 6 # is obtained under the condition that the spandex used in step B is normal-temperature spandex, the dyeing temperature is 150° C., and the dyeing time is 20 min.
- Performance test: color fastness to soaping is grade 3, color fastness to rubbing is grade 3 and color fastness to sublimation is grade 3; ironing shrinkage rate is not higher than 5%; cotton feeling is good.
- Yarn-dyed fabric 7 #, 8 # was manufactured according to the method of Embodiment 1, and Embodiment 5 is different from Embodiment 1 in that:
- The yarn-dyed fabrics 7 #, 8 # are respectively obtained under the condition that in step 2), the desizing temperatures in the first desizing are 92.5° C. and 90.5° C.
- Performance test of yarn-dyed fabric 7 #: the fabric is stained and the quality is unqualified. Performance test of yarn-dyed fabric 8 #: cotton feeling is poor and desizing is not complete.
- The yarn-dyed fabric 9 # was manufactured according to the method of Embodiment 1, and Embodiment 6 is different from Embodiment 1 in that:
- The yarn-dyed fabric 9 # is obtained under the condition that no antibacterial auxiliary agent was added in step 2), and 4 wt ‰ antibacterial agent was added in step 5) of setting.
- Performance test of yarn-dyed fabric 9 #: color fastness to soaping is grade 5, color fastness to rubbing is grade 5 and color fastness to sublimation is grade 5; ironing shrinkage rate is not higher than 5%; compared with yarn-dyed fabric 1 #, cotton feeling is poor in dryness.
- Yarn-dyed fabric 10 # was manufactured according to the method of Embodiment 1, and Embodiment 7 is different from Embodiment 1 in that:
- Step 2) first desizing: enabling a desizing mixed solution I to include 4 wt % of strong alkali and 2-3 wt % of desizing agent.
- step 4) second desizing: performing intermittent desizing (in-jigger washing) by a desizing mixed solution II, washing once, adding 1 g/L of softening agent, washing once, and discharging water twice or waiting until water is completely discharged, wherein the temperature of the second desizing is 60-90° C. and the time is not more than 45 min, and the desizing mixed solution II includes 6 g/L of sodium hydroxide, 2 g/L of sodium hydrosulfite and 1 g/L of degreasing agent.
- Performance test of yarn-dyed fabric 10 #: color fastness to soaping is grade 3, color fastness to rubbing is grade 3 and color fastness to sublimation is grade 3; ironing shrinkage rate is not higher than 5%; cotton feeling is good.
- Yarn-dyed fabric 11 # was manufactured according to the method of Embodiment 1, and Embodiment 8 is different from Embodiment 1 in that: steps 4) and 5) are not performed.
- Performance test of yarn-dyed fabric 11 #: color fastness to soaping is grade 4, color fastness to rubbing is grade 4 and color fastness to sublimation is grade 4; ironing shrinkage rate is not higher than 5%; cotton feeling is poor.
- Yarn-dyed fabric 12 # was manufactured according to the method of Embodiment 1, and Embodiment 9 is different from Embodiment 1 in that: step 2) is not performed.
- Performance test of yarn-dyed fabric 12 #: color fastness to soaping is grade 3, color fastness to rubbing is grade 3 and color fastness to sublimation is grade 3; ironing shrinkage rate is not higher than 6%; cotton feeling is poor.
Claims (21)
1-28. (canceled)
29. A polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric, interwoven by warp and weft, wherein the warp adopts dyed polyester as a covering layer and low-temperature spandex as a core-spun yarn of a core yarn, a weight ratio of the polyester to the low-temperature spandex is 4-49:1, and the polyester is subjected to alkali deweighting treatment to form an eroded surface.
30. The yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 29 , wherein a fineness of the low-temperature spandex is 20D-40D, and the core-spun yarn is made of polyester and low-temperature spandex by a machine packaging process with a twist of 5-8 twist/cm and a draw ratio of 2.5-3.5.
31. The yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 29 , wherein a deweighting rate of alkali deweighting treatment carried out on the polyester is not higher than 5%.
32. The yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 29 , wherein the polyester is selected from at least one of polyester filament, polyester composite fiber and polyester staple fiber;
wherein the polyester filament is selected from at least one of draw textured yarn DTY, fully drawn yarn FDY, air textured yarn ATY and high stretch yarn; the polyester composite fiber comprises elastic composite polyester fiber T400; the polyester staple fiber comprises cotton-like polyester.
33. The yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 29 , wherein the polyester is polyester with an F number not lower than 24.
34. The yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 29 , wherein a dye used for dyeing the polyester is a disperse dye with high temperature resistance, washing resistance and alkali resistance, and a dyeing temperature of the dye is 130±5° C.
35. The yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 29 , wherein a color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric measured according to GB/T3920-2008 is not lower than grade 4.
36. The yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 35 , wherein the color fastness of the yarn-dyed fabric measured according to GB/T3920-2008 is not lower than grade 5.
37. The yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 29 , wherein an ironing shrinkage rate of the yarn-dyed fabric treated for 6 times at 170° C. and for 15 s is not higher than 3%.
38. A manufacturing method of the polyester cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 29 , comprising the following steps:
1) interweaving provided weft and sized warp to obtain a coarse yarn-dyed fabric;
2) first desizing: performing continuous desizing on the coarse yarn-dyed fabric by a desizing mixed solution I, wherein a temperature of the first desizing is 91-91.5° C. and a time of the first desizing is not more than 20 min, and the desizing mixed solution I comprises 2-3 wt % of strong alkali and 2-3 wt % of desizing agent;
3) pre-setting: enabling a temperature of pre-setting to be 180-200° C.;
4) second desizing: performing intermittent desizing by a desizing mixed solution II, wherein a temperature of the second desizing is 60-90° C. and a time of the second desizing is not more than 45 min, and the desizing mixed solution II comprises 2-5 wt % of strong alkali and 2-5 wt % of sodium hydrosulfite; and
5) setting: enabling a temperature of setting to be 100-140° C., so as to obtain the yarn-dyed fabric;
wherein, the warp comprises dyed polyester yarns as a covering layer and low-temperature spandex as a core-spun yarn of a core yarn; a size for the sizing comprises acrylic size.
39. The manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 38 , wherein a dye used in the dyed polyester is a disperse dye with high temperature resistance, water resistance and alkali resistance;
and a dyeing temperature is 130±5° C.
40. The manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 38 , wherein a fineness of the low-temperature spandex is 20D-40D, and the core-spun yarn is made of polyester and low-temperature spandex by a machine packaging process with a twist of 5-8 twist/cm and a draw ratio of 2.5-3.5.
41. The manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 38 , wherein a temperature of the sizing is 130±5° C.; and
a concentration of the size is 10-15 wt %, and a speed of sizing is 40-50 m/min.
42. The manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 38 , wherein the continuous desizing is desizing with a continuous process desizing machine, the temperature of the first desizing is 91° C., the speed of desizing is 40-50 m/min, and the time of the first desizing is not more than 15 min.
43. The manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 38 , wherein a speed of the pre-setting is 30-40 m/min; and
a speed of the setting is 30-50 m/min.
44. The manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 38 , wherein the intermittent desizing is in-jigger washing, the temperature of the second desizing is 70° C., and the time of the second desizing is not more than 45 min, and the desizing mixed solution II comprises 4-5 wt % of strong alkali and 4-5 wt % of sodium hydrosulfite.
45. The manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 38 , wherein a pre-setting auxiliary agent I is added during the pre-setting, and the pre-setting auxiliary agent I comprises a dry hand feeling auxiliary agent and acetic acid;
wherein the dry hand feeling auxiliary agent comprises an antibacterial auxiliary agent.
46. The manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 45 , wherein the antibacterial auxiliary agent is a zinc ion antibacterial agent;
a setting auxiliary agent II is added during the setting, and the setting auxiliary agent II comprises a smooth hand feeling auxiliary agent;
wherein the smooth hand feeling auxiliary agent comprises a moisture absorption and perspiration agent and/or a softening agent.
47. Clothing, wherein the clothing is made from a yarn-dyed fabric, and the yarn-dyed fabric is selected from at least one of the yarn-dyed fabrics described in claim 29 .
48. A manufacturing method of the yarn-dyed fabric according to claim 47 , wherein the clothing is a shirt.
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CN201911140910.9 | 2019-11-20 | ||
CN201911140910.9A CN110699826B (en) | 2019-11-20 | 2019-11-20 | Terylene cotton-like yarn-dyed fabric, and manufacturing method and application thereof |
PCT/CN2019/121549 WO2021097886A1 (en) | 2019-11-20 | 2019-11-28 | Polyester imitation cotton yarn-dyed fabric, and manufacturing method and use therefor |
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JP (1) | JP7433332B2 (en) |
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CN117026471A (en) * | 2023-08-04 | 2023-11-10 | 广东启悦未来科技股份有限公司 | Cotton-like spandex fabric and preparation method thereof |
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CN112695441A (en) * | 2020-12-18 | 2021-04-23 | 利郎(中国)有限公司 | Nylon-viscose elastic cotton-like fabric and preparation method thereof |
CN114134615A (en) * | 2021-12-04 | 2022-03-04 | 广东威信纺织有限公司 | Antiskid breathable elastic blended fabric tape and preparation method thereof |
CN114481407A (en) * | 2021-12-21 | 2022-05-13 | 江阴芗菲纺织科技有限公司 | Production process of light and thin anti-ultraviolet woven fabric |
CN115386998B (en) * | 2022-06-10 | 2024-03-01 | 上海九裕纺织科技有限公司 | Ultraviolet-resistant and penetration-resistant fabric and preparation process thereof |
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JPH10212640A (en) * | 1997-01-20 | 1998-08-11 | Toyobo Co Ltd | Polyester stretch woven fabric and its production |
US20030190853A1 (en) * | 1999-12-21 | 2003-10-09 | Scott A. Lovingood | Chambray fabric having unique characteristics and method of manufacturing same |
CN102433729A (en) * | 2011-09-20 | 2012-05-02 | 潘润华 | Method for preparing cotton-like fabric through alkali decrement |
CN103437103A (en) * | 2013-08-16 | 2013-12-11 | 盛虹集团有限公司 | Dyeing and finishing processing technology of polyester filament high-imitation cotton fabric |
CN103741417A (en) * | 2014-01-03 | 2014-04-23 | 长兴新峰印染有限公司 | Preparation method of high-imitation cotton printed fabric |
CN107700028A (en) * | 2017-08-18 | 2018-02-16 | 佛山市捷邦纺织有限公司 | A kind of color knits leisure fabric and its weaving process |
CN109501416A (en) * | 2018-10-26 | 2019-03-22 | 沈玉芳 | A kind of production technology of the super imitative cotton face fabric of moisture absorption waterproof and breathable elastic flame |
CN109763240A (en) * | 2018-12-27 | 2019-05-17 | 嘉兴市鸣竣纺织有限公司 | A kind of production technology of terylene four sides stretch yarn dyed fabric |
CN110306274A (en) * | 2019-07-07 | 2019-10-08 | 徐州荣盛纺织整理有限公司 | A kind of moisture-inhibiting Double-layer polyester fabric and preparation method thereof |
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- 2019-11-20 CN CN201911140910.9A patent/CN110699826B/en active Active
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JP2022519899A (en) | 2022-03-25 |
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