WO2021066510A1 - Composition cosmétique pour le traitement des cheveux et du cuir chevelu, et son procédé de production - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique pour le traitement des cheveux et du cuir chevelu, et son procédé de production Download PDF

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WO2021066510A1
WO2021066510A1 PCT/KR2020/013315 KR2020013315W WO2021066510A1 WO 2021066510 A1 WO2021066510 A1 WO 2021066510A1 KR 2020013315 W KR2020013315 W KR 2020013315W WO 2021066510 A1 WO2021066510 A1 WO 2021066510A1
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hair
weight
scalp care
cosmetic composition
polymer
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PCT/KR2020/013315
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English (en)
Korean (ko)
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신홍철
정지영
전용철
신아름
최예림
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신홍철
주식회사 피알앤
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/002—Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/413—Nanosized, i.e. having sizes below 100 nm

Definitions

  • the technology disclosed in the present specification relates to a treatment cosmetic composition and a manufacturing method for hair and scalp care.
  • Hair entanglement usually occurs in shampooing, and after shampooing, the hair surface is negatively charged and fly away occurs due to static electricity between adjacent hairs. It prevents the generation of static electricity after drying, and not only keeps the hair calm and tidy, but also provides a smooth and soft touch to the hair.
  • the conditioning composition was prepared by O/W emulsification under a heating process, and recently, a liquid conditioning treatment having a simple manufacturing process and low viscosity has been introduced.
  • Korean Patent Registration No. 10-464144, Publication No. 2003-0050371, Publication No. 2005-0094289, and Publication No. 2005-0094290 include polyols and derivatives thereof, lower alcohols, quaternary ammonium salts, etc. Hair conditioning compositions using antistatic agents such as tertiary amidoamine are introduced.
  • the present invention relates to a treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care, and when using a conditioning composition consisting of a hydrocarbon-based oil and an antistatic agent including conventional polyols and derivatives thereof, lower alcohol, higher alcohol, etc., discomfort with low viscosity and after use
  • a conditioning composition consisting of a hydrocarbon-based oil and an antistatic agent including conventional polyols and derivatives thereof, lower alcohol, higher alcohol, etc.
  • Treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care that solves dissatisfaction with the texture and can provide a soft, elastic and smooth hair texture (Softness, Flexibility, Smoothness) by increasing the viscosity after application to the hair by containing it as a binder. And a manufacturing method thereof.
  • the composition contains an amphiphilic polymer and an oil-soluble active ingredient, and the content of the oil-soluble active ingredient is 5 to 35% by weight based on the total weight of the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care, and the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care It has 1 viscosity, and the composition provides a treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care that is changed to a second viscosity higher than the first viscosity when in contact with water.
  • the amphiphilic polymer may be a hydrophobic functional group having a reactive end bonded to a complementary reaction site of the hydrophilic resin skeleton.
  • the hydrophilic resin skeleton may be one having as a skeleton one or more cellulose-based compounds selected from hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and hydroxyethylcellulose.
  • the hydrophobic functional group may be at least one selected from a linear or branched C 6 ⁇ C 30 alkyl group, a cholesteryl group, a monocyclic or polycyclic aryl group, a silicone group, an alkyl silicone group, and an alkyl fluorosilicone group.
  • the hydrophobic functional group may be bonded to 0.3 to 0.6% by weight, or 1.0 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight% of the amphiphilic polymer.
  • the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care may further include a cationic polymer.
  • the cationic polymer may be an ammonium-based water-soluble polymer.
  • the amphiphilic polymer or the amphiphilic polymer and the cationic polymer may be included in the form of a graft conjugate.
  • a hydrophilic skeleton constituting the amphiphilic polymer surrounds the oil-soluble active ingredient, and a hydrophobic functional group constituting the amphiphilic polymer or a hydrophobic functional group constituting the amphiphilic polymer and a cationic polymer are inside the oil-soluble active ingredient. It may be a water-soluble conjugate having an infiltration structure penetrating into.
  • the high-speed emulsified graft conjugate may have an average particle size of 50 to 500 nm measured at 25 degrees based on ISO 22412 method (Particle Size Analysis Dynamic Light Scattering).
  • the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care contains the graft conjugate in a range of 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care, and the remaining amount is polyol or its Polymers, alcohols or polar organic solvents, hydrocarbon oils, antistatic agents or cationic surfactants may be included.
  • the polyol or its polymer is, for example, 1,6-hexanediol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 2,3-butanediol, pentylene glycol, decylene Glycol, isoprene glycol, glycerol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, polyethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and At least one selected from the group consisting of diethylene glycol monomethyl ether may be included in the range of 10 to 70% by weight based on the total weight of the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care.
  • the alcohol or polar organic solvent may contain, for example, one or more selected from the group consisting of ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, and butanol in a range of 5 to 30% by weight based on the total weight of the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care. have.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil includes a C 12 ⁇ C 26 straight or branched chain alkyl group, a C 12 ⁇ C 26 straight or branched alkenyl group, a higher alcohol having a C 12 ⁇ C 26 straight or branched chain alkylene group, paraffin and It may be any one or more of hydrocarbons containing petrolatum, higher fatty acids and their ethers, and middle chain fatty acid oils (Middle Chain Triglycerides).
  • composition further comprises any one or more selected from hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl cellulose, 2-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-hydroxyacetophenone, preservatives, anti-inflammatory agents, fragrances and pigments can do.
  • the composition has a very low value so that the first viscosity measured with a Brookfield viscometer at 25°C is difficult to measure, but the composition and water are mixed in a weight ratio of 0.5 to 1.5: 8.5 to 9.5 and stirred, followed by a Brookfield viscometer at 25°C.
  • the viscosity measured by is 50 to 5,000 cps, the composition and water are mixed at a weight ratio of 1:5 to 2.5: 7.5 to 8.5, stirred, and then the second viscosity measured with a Brookfield viscometer at 25°C is 15,000 to 55,000 cps. It can be.
  • the graft conjugate is 0.2 to 3% by weight of an amphiphilic polymer, 5 to 35% by weight of an oil-soluble active ingredient, 0.1 to 5% by weight of a cationic polymer, and 10 to 70 of a polyol or a polymer thereof based on the total weight of the graft conjugate. It may be made up of weight percent and the remaining amount of water.
  • the oil-soluble active ingredient is a C 12 to C 26 straight or branched chain alkyl group, a C 12 to C 26 straight or branched alkenyl group, a higher alcohol having a C 12 to C 26 straight or branched chain alkylene group, paraffin Hydrocarbons including and petrolatum, lanolin derivatives, higher fatty acids and their ethers, animal fats, animal oil-soluble active ingredients, vegetable fats, vegetable oils, mineral oils, middle chain fatty acid oils (Middle Chain Triglycerides), idebenone (hydroxydecylubiquinone) ), may be any one or more of ceramide.
  • Disperse and dissolve by mixing a solution obtained by dissolving 0.1 to 3% by weight of an amphiphilic polymer in hot water to the solvent solution, adding at least one of 5 to 20% by weight of a hydrocarbon-based oil and 0.1 to 3% by weight of a cationic polymer, and dispersing it. Obtaining a liquid; And
  • the hydrophilic skeleton constituting the amphiphilic polymer is enclosed by the hydrophilic skeleton constituting the amphiphilic polymer by putting it in a high pressure emulsifier (microfluidizer) and high-pressure treatment, and the hydrophobicity constituting the amphiphilic polymer. Obtaining an infiltration structure in which a functional group has penetrated into the oil-soluble active ingredient; And
  • the infiltration structure further includes a cationic polymer, and the cationic polymer penetrates into the oil-soluble active ingredient together with a hydrophobic functional group constituting the amphiphilic polymer.
  • the high-pressure treatment may be performed under 50 to 40,000 psi, and the number of repetitive treatments is not separately limited.
  • the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care containing the amphiphilic polymer of the present invention as an active ingredient has high stability, low skin irritation, and low viscosity, so it can relieve discomfort and dissatisfaction with the texture after use and after application to the hair. It has an excellent feeling of use due to the increase in viscosity and can provide a soft, elastic and smooth hairdressing feel (Softness, Flexibility, Smoothness) to the hair.
  • a graft conjugate containing the amphiphilic polymer and cationic polymer as active ingredients it is a water-soluble conjugate that resolves hair entanglement even without the use of rinse or treatment, prevents the occurrence of static electricity after drying, and prevents the occurrence of static electricity after drying. It can provide a smooth and soft texture.
  • the oil-soluble active ingredient is stably dispersed, the formulation stability is very excellent.
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of infiltration of a graft conjugate provided by an amphiphilic polymer and a cationic polymer according to an embodiment of the present invention.
  • Figure 2 is a liquid, toner, mist or essence formulation before applying the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care according to Example 4 of the present invention to water-stained hair, part or all of it after 3 minutes after being applied to water-stained hair. This is a photograph of an indirect experiment on becoming a cream formulation.
  • FIG. 3 is an additional confirmation of the change in the formulation of FIG. 2, and the photo of 1 is a case of the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care according to Example 4 of the present invention alone (no water mixed), and the photo of 2 is an implementation of the present invention.
  • 90% by weight of water was mixed with 10% by weight of the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care according to Example 4, and the suspension formulation was confirmed by a whipped photograph, and the photograph of 3 is the hair and scalp according to Example 4 of the present invention. It can be seen that the viscosity of the cream was formed by mixing 80% by weight of water and 80% by weight of water in 20% by weight of the treatment cosmetic composition for care.
  • Comparative Example 1 is a photograph of applying the compositions of Comparative Example 1 and Reference Example 1 to wet hair bundles.
  • the transparent liquid of Reference Example is simply applied to wet hair, it is not absorbed into the hair due to its viscous properties and exists in a clustered state, but the composition of Comparative Example 1 is not viscous, so it can be seen that it penetrates into the hair immediately after use. What was simply treated with water was treated with a blank.
  • FIG. 6 is a photograph showing a state of wet hair after rubbing the state of FIG. 5 and then rinsing with flowing tap water. What was simply treated with water was treated with a blank.
  • FIG. 7 is a photograph after drying the hair bundle of FIG. 6 with a hair dryer. What was simply treated with water was treated with a blank.
  • FIG. 8 is a photograph of a graft conjugate of Example 3 containing idebenone and a treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care of Example 6.
  • FIG. a is a photograph of mixing and stirring 80% by weight of water with 20% by weight of the composition
  • b is a graft conjugate containing idebenone of Example 3
  • c is a treatment cosmetic for hair and scalp care containing the graft of Example 6 Composition
  • d is the composition of Comparative Example 1.
  • 9 is a table showing the model and analysis conditions of the analyzer for measuring the average particle size.
  • the present invention solves the inconvenience of low viscosity and dissatisfaction with the texture after use, which has been a problem in hair conditioning compositions using conventional polyols, lower alcohols, hydrocarbon oils, and antistatic agents. It can provide a hair conditioner composition for hair and scalp care with a soft, elastic and smooth hair texture (Softness, Flexibility, Smoothness) that provides an excellent feeling of use.
  • an amphiphilic polymer and an oil-soluble active ingredient are included, and the content of the oil-soluble active ingredient is 5 to 35% by weight based on the total weight of the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care, and the hair and
  • the treatment cosmetic composition for scalp care provides a composition for hair and scalp care that has a first viscosity, and the composition is changed to a second viscosity higher than the first viscosity when in contact with water.
  • an oil-in-water formulation comprising an amphiphilic polymer and an oil-soluble active ingredient and having a first viscosity, and when contacted with water, a part or all of the formulation is higher than the first viscosity, for example, a cream formulation is provided. It provides a cosmetic composition.
  • the water-in-water type refers to an oil-in-water type in which the content of water in the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care is 10% by weight or less.
  • Such types include cosmetics for hair and scalp care, which have a relatively low viscosity such as liquid, toner, mist, or essence, and have flowability.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the embodiment of the present invention may be used for treatment or may be used for treatment.
  • cream formulation used in the present invention refers to a cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care treatment that does not flow like water and has a viscous formulation and has an opaque appearance.
  • opacity is defined as changing its properties into white, opaque properties when diluted with water unless otherwise specified.
  • suspension is defined as a liquid that is not transparent and has a translucent state, unless otherwise specified.
  • amphiphilic polymer refers to a hydrophobic functional group having a reactive end bonded to the complementary reaction site of the hydrophilic resin skeleton.
  • the hydrophilic resin skeleton constituting the amphiphilic polymer includes, for example, one or more cellulose-based compounds selected from hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and hydroxyethylcellulose as a skeleton. It is suitable to provide an infiltration structure as shown in FIG. 1.
  • hydrophobic monomers styrene and its derivatives, vinyl acetate of vinyl toluene, vinyl ether, caprolactone, vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride, silicone derivatives, alkyl acrylates, alkyl methacrylates, Ethylhexylacrylate, isobornylacrylate, tertiary butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexylacrylate.
  • water-soluble polyurethane polyethyleneimine, polyether, xanthan gum, konjac gum, gellan gum, karaya gum, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, and hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guarchloride, starch derivatives And the like may be further included.
  • monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminoethylpropanediol, basic amino acids, tromethamine, and the like may be further included.
  • the hydrophobic functional group constituting the amphiphilic polymer is a C 6 ⁇ C 30 alkyl group, at least one fluorinated or partially differentiated C 6 ⁇ C 30 alkyl group, at least one cholesteryl group, at least one aromatic (including benzene and naphthalene) , At least one silicone, alkyl silicone, or alkyl fluorosilicone group may be selected from one or more.
  • a preferred hydrophobic functional group may be a C 12 to C 24 linear or branched alkyl group, and in this case, the larger the number of carbons is, the better the infiltration structure shown in FIG. 1 can be formed, which is preferable.
  • Hydrophobic functional groups constituting the amphiphilic polymer can be used in a range of 0.3 to 0.6% by weight or 1.0 to 2.0% by weight of the total weight of the amphiphilic polymer, and it is preferable to use within the range of 0.3 to 0.6% by weight to effectively exhibit water-soluble properties. Do.
  • the hydroxypropyl group constituting the amphiphilic polymer may be 7 to 11% by weight of the total weight% of the amphiphilic polymer.
  • amphiphilic polymer may be an ether-based compound including a repeating unit represented by the following formula 1.
  • R is independently selected from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, -[CH 2 CH(CH 3 )O] x H or -CH 2 CH(OH)CH 2 OR', and all R in the formula are simultaneously hydrogen atoms And R'is -C y H 2y+1 , and y is an integer of 1 or more, or an integer of 12 to 24.
  • x is an integer from 0 to 5 and n is an integer from 100 to 10,000.
  • the amphiphilic polymer may be included in the form of a graft conjugate.
  • the graft conjugate is a water-soluble conjugate having an infiltration structure in which a hydrophilic skeleton constituting the amphiphilic polymer surrounds the oil-soluble active ingredient, and a hydrophobic functional group constituting the amphiphilic polymer penetrates into the oil-soluble active ingredient.
  • the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care may further include a cationic polymer.
  • ammonium-based water-soluble polymer so that the cationic polymer used in the embodiment of the present invention is water-soluble and supports (crosslinks) the above-described amphiphilic polymer to provide an infiltration structure.
  • ammonium-based water-soluble polymer examples include polyquaternium-based compounds.
  • the polyquaternium-based compound has the effect of enhancing the effect of the graft conjugate adsorbing to the hair, and contains at least one type from polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-67, etc. Can be used.
  • the cationic polymer may contain, for example, 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care. If the content is less than the above range, the amphiphilic polymer cannot be sufficiently crosslinked, so that the desired viscosity is not realized, and the formulation stability of the composition is not good.
  • amphiphilic polymer and the cationic polymer in the form of a graft conjugate is more preferable because it improves the texture after use, is applied to water-soaked hair, and then has adequate water solubility while increasing the viscosity and does not fall off easily from the hair.
  • the hydrophilic skeleton constituting the amphiphilic polymer surrounds the oil-soluble active ingredient, and the hydrophobic functional group constituting the amphiphilic polymer and the hydrophobic functional group of the cationic polymer penetrate into the oil-soluble active ingredient.
  • It may be a water-soluble conjugate having a structure.
  • 1 is a schematic structural diagram of a water-soluble graft conjugate having an infiltration structure.
  • the hydrophobic skeleton (2) constituting the amphiphilic polymer surrounds the oil-soluble active ingredient (1), and the hydrophobic functional group (3) constituting the amphiphilic polymer and the hydrophobic functional group (4) of the cationic polymer. It can be seen that) penetrates into the inside of the oil-soluble active ingredient (1) to form an infiltration structure.
  • the high-speed emulsified graft conjugate may have an average particle size of 50 to 500 nm, 50 to 300 nm, or 100 to 200 nm measured at 25 degrees according to the ISO 22412 method. In addition, it can be obtained variously in a transparent, translucent or opaque state depending on the active ingredient and the blending ingredient.
  • the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care contains 0.5 to 10% by weight or 1 to 3% by weight of the graft conjugate based on the total weight of the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care, and the balance is polyol or It is preferable to include the polymer, a lower alcohol having 6 or less carbon atoms or a polar organic solvent, a hydrocarbon-based oil, an antistatic agent or a cationic surfactant, since it can provide an excellent conditioning effect.
  • the graft conjugate is 0.2 to 3% by weight of an amphiphilic polymer, 5 to 35% by weight of an oil-soluble active ingredient, 5% by weight or less or 0.1 to 5% by weight of a cationic polymer, a polyol or a polymer thereof based on the total weight of the graft conjugate.
  • a desired infiltration structure can be effectively provided, which is more preferable.
  • a stable infiltration structure may be provided.
  • Useful active ingredients are higher alcohols having for example a C 12 ⁇ C 26 straight-swaena branched alkyl, C 12 ⁇ C 26 straight-swaena branched-chain alkenyl groups, C 12 ⁇ C 26 straight-swaena branched-chain alkylene group of paraffin and Hydrocarbons containing petrolatum, lanolin derivatives, higher fatty acids and their ethers, animal fats, animal oil-soluble active ingredients, vegetable fats, vegetable oils, middle chain fatty acid oils (Middle Chain Triglycerides), idebenone, ceramide, but may be any one or more. It is not limiting.
  • At least one silicone oil-soluble active ingredient selected from the group consisting of cyclomethicone, phenyltrimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and dimethicone may also be included in an appropriate amount if necessary.
  • the oil-soluble active ingredient imparts moisturizing, conditioning and nourishment to the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care.
  • the oil-soluble active ingredient may be any one or more selected from hydrocarbon-based, ester-based and vegetable oils.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil-soluble active ingredient may be, for example, one or more selected from the group consisting of cyclododecane, isooctane, liquid paraffin, petrolatum, hydrogenated polydecene, cyclooctane, cyclopentane, and squalene, but is not limited thereto. .
  • ester-based oil-soluble active ingredients are, for example, isopropyl myristate, ethyl laurate, ethyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, butylene glycol dica.
  • Prylate/dicaprate, isopropyl myristate, triethylhexanoin, cetylethylhexanoate, octyldodecanol, and polyol ester may be one or more selected from the group consisting of, but are not limited thereto.
  • the vegetable oil is, for example, jojoba oil, avocado oil, almond oil, olive oil, sesame oil, wheat germ oil, sour flower oil, camellia oil, castor oil, grape seed oil, green tea seed oil, macadamia nuts, meadow foam seed oil, It may be one or more selected from the group consisting of palm oil, rosehip oil, hydrogenated oil, argan oil, wild birch oil-soluble active ingredient, argan tree kernel oil, and lavender oil, but is not limited thereto.
  • the polyol or its polymer may serve as a moisturizing agent and help dissolve other components such as preservatives, anti-inflammatory agents, fragrances, and pigments in the aqueous phase, and in particular, may play a role of increasing the solubility of the amphiphilic polymer.
  • polyol or its polymer for example, 1,6-hexanediol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, glycerol, hexylene glycol, di Ethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, polyethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether It may contain at least one selected from 10 to 70% by weight based on the total weight of the treatment cosmetic composition or graft conjugate for hair and scalp care, preferably 20 to 60% by weight, more preferably 30 to 60 It is good to contain it in weight percent.
  • the moisturizing feeling of the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care and the effect of forming a moisture film on the skin are insignificant, and if it exceeds the above range, a treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care is used. When applied to, it feels sticky, lumpy, and moist, so the feeling of use is not good.
  • an alcohol or polar organic solvent for example, methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol may be used in an amount of 5 to 30% by weight, 10 to 30% by weight, or 15 to 25% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the antistatic agent may be used alone or in a mixture of a quaternary ammonium salt and a tertiary aminoamine in the range of 1 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the hair conditioner composition.
  • the quaternary ammonium salt may be represented by the following formula 2.
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 are the same or different from each other, and 1 to 3 types are C 10 to C 22 straight or branched alkyl groups, C 10 to C 22 straight or branched alkenyl groups And the remaining 3 to 1 are alkyl groups having a C 1 to C 2 hydrocarbon, and X is a salt-forming counter ion, which is at least one of halogen, acetate, citrate, and lactate.
  • the cationic surfactant is, for example, C10-40 isoalkylamidopropylethyldimoniumethosulfate, PEG-2dimedoformamidoethylmoniummethosulfate, or babasuamidopropyltrimoniummetho Surfactants such as sulfate may be used and are not limited to the surfactants mentioned above.
  • Treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care may be used in the range of 0.5 1 to 20% by weight of one or more hydrocarbon oils, may further include a functional ingredient.
  • the content of the functional ingredient is in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care of the present invention. If it is contained below the above range, the functional effect is insignificant, and if it exceeds the above range, it is uneconomical.
  • the functional component may be one or more selected from the group consisting of a skin irritation relief component, a skin moisturizing component, and a hair loss prevention component, but is not limited thereto.
  • the skin irritation relief ingredients are, for example, allantoin, bisabolol, aloe vera, burdock root extract, green tea extract, glycyrrhetinic acid, white willow, willow herb, willow bark, chamomile extract, grape extract, licorice root extract, and It may be one or more selected from the group consisting of vitamin C derivatives, but is not limited thereto.
  • the skin moisturizing ingredients are glycerin, erythritol, isopentyldiol, amino acids, natural moisturizing factor (NMF), hyaluronic acid, 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glucose, urea, sorbitol, lactic acid. , Glucuronic acid, galactose, propylene glycol, isopropyl myristate, inorganic ion component, triglyceride, mineral oil-soluble active ingredient, silicone, squalane, squalene, ceramides, cholesterol ), wax and lecithin, and may be one or more selected from the group consisting of derivatives, but are not limited thereto.
  • the anti-hair loss component may be, for example, diaminopyrimidine oxide, lysophospholipid, or the like.
  • the above-described diaminopyrimidine oxide has a function of increasing the volume of the hair in the hair growth stage by acting on the structure inside the hair follicle.
  • Lysophospholipide is one of the enzyme-modified phospholipids, and refers to the hydrolysis of the ester bond at the position 2 by phospholipase. Unlike phospholipids having double-stranded fatty acids, lysophospholipids have a single-stranded fatty acid, so they have high HLB and have different chemical properties than phospholipids. When lysophospholipid is used, the effect of preventing hair loss is excellent.
  • the lysophospholipid is preferably a lysophospholipide derived from Soybean, egg yolk, and soybean, and more preferably, it is preferable to use lysophospholipide and glycerin together.
  • the lysophospholipid may be a soybean, egg yolk, or soybean extract containing a certain amount or more of lysophospholipide.
  • soybean-derived lysophospholipid is used.
  • amphiphilic polymer and soybean-derived lysophospholipid are used together, there is an advantage of improving the dispersion stability of the oil-soluble active ingredient in the aqueous phase.
  • lysophospholipid is preferably contained in an amount of 0.05 to 3% by weight based on the total weight of the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care of the present invention. If it exceeds the range, it is not economical.
  • Treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care of the present invention may further include a preservative or preservative.
  • a preservative or preservative Preferably, the content of the preservative or preservative is preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight based on the total weight of the hair conditioner composition. If it is contained below the above range, the effect of preservation is not sufficient, and if it exceeds the above range, it is uneconomical.
  • the preservative or preservative is, for example, chlorophenesine, trisodium EDTA, methylparaben, 4-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, 2-hydroxyacetophenone, propylparaben, butyl Paraben, ethylparaben, potassium sorbate, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, chlorosilenol, imidazolidinyl urea, citric acid, 1,2 hexanediol may be any one or more selected from, but is not limited thereto.
  • the fragrance may be selected from the group consisting of, for example, aldehydes, phenols, alcohols, ethers, esters, hydrocarbons, ketones, lactones, muscrews, and fragrances having a terpene skeleton, but is not limited thereto.
  • the viscosity measured with a Brookfield viscometer at 25 °C is 50 to 5,000 cps Can be
  • the hair and scalp care treatment cosmetic composition and water were mixed in a weight ratio of 1.5 to 2.5: 7.5 to 8.5, stirred, and then the viscosity (second viscosity) measured with a Brookfield viscometer at 25 °C was 15,000 to 55,000 cps.
  • second viscosity measured with a Brookfield viscometer at 25 °C was 15,000 to 55,000 cps.
  • the hair and scalp care treatment cosmetic composition has a cream formulation through a suspension formulation after contact with water-stained hair, and until part or all of the formulation after contact with water-stained hair has a cream formulation.
  • the time required may be within 5 minutes or within 3 minutes from the point of contact with the water-stained hair.
  • the difference in heat generation measured with an alcohol thermometer before and after applying the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care according to the embodiments of the present invention to the hair covered with water of about 25° C. is 3 to 10° C., 3 to 8° C., Or it may be 3 to 5 °C.
  • Treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care further comprises hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl cellulose, 4-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, and 2-hydroxyacetophenone. It may further include one or more of selected one or more hydroxyacetophenone preservatives, anti-inflammatory agents, antibacterial agents, and pigments.
  • hydroxypropylgua based on the total weight of the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care, 0.1 to 0.15% by weight of hydroxypropylgua, 0.1 to 0.15% by weight of hydroxypropylcellulose, 15 to 50% by weight of hydroxyacetophenone, capryl Additives having a composition of 10 to 30% by weight of caprylyl glycol and 25 to 60% by weight of dipropylene glycol may be included in a weight fraction of 0.01 to 10% of the total 100% of the composition. In this case, it is preferable to provide the effect of maintaining the graft stability of the composition. Among them, hydroxypropylgua can provide a viscosity increase and alcohol solubility characteristics of the composition.
  • a method of manufacturing a treatment cosmetic for hair and scalp care according to another embodiment of the present invention may provide the following manufacturing method as an example.
  • obtaining a solvent solution Dispersing the active ingredient; Dispersing and dissolving the amphiphilic polymer; And preparing a liquid, toner, mist or essence formulation.
  • a hydrocarbon-based oil or a polar organic solvent is added to 10 to 60% by weight of the polyol or its polymer, followed by heating to 75°C.
  • any one or more of 1 to 15% by weight of an antistatic agent or cationic surfactant, 0.1 to 0.15% by weight of hydroxypropyl guar, and 0.1 to 0.15% by weight of hydroxypropyl cellulose are further added and stirred to make liquid, toner, mist or It can be prepared as an essence formulation.
  • the liquid, toner, mist, or essence formulation obtained shows a creamy formulation in part or in whole when applied to the hair covered with water (see Figs. 2 to 3), and provides an improved feeling of use by conversion to such a cream formulation.
  • it provides a soft, elastic and smooth hair texture (Softness, Flexibility, Smoothness) to the hair by the action of the amphiphilic polymer alone or the amphiphilic polymer and the cationic polymer.
  • the antistatic agent may be an ammonium salt represented by Formula 2 above.
  • the antistatic agent is preferably contained in an amount of 1 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care of the present invention. If it is contained within the above range, the emulsifying ability is insignificant, and if it exceeds the above range, it is not economical.
  • the hydrophilic skeleton constituting the amphiphilic polymer surrounds the oil-soluble active ingredient, and the hydrophobic functional group and the polyquaternium constituting the amphiphilic polymer are 0.5 to 10% by weight of an infiltration structure penetrating into the oil-soluble active ingredient; 20 to 55% by weight of a polyol or a polymer thereof; Oily ingredients; 1-15% by weight of a cationic surfactant; And it can provide a treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care comprising 5 to 30% by weight of a lower alcohol or a polar solvent. In this case, it is possible to provide a feeling of use and an improved hairdressing effect after use.
  • the infiltration structure has an average particle size of 50 to 500 nm measured using a particle size meter after treatment with a high pressure emulsifier.
  • the texture it is not limited to the one that can be used only after undergoing a high pressure emulsifier treatment.
  • a method for manufacturing a treatment cosmetic for hair and scalp care includes, for example, obtaining an infiltration structure; And preparing a liquid, toner, mist or essence formulation.
  • the amphiphilic polymer is dispersed in a polyol, dissolved in water of 75° C. or higher, and then, an oil-soluble active ingredient at 75° C. prepared in advance is added to perform primary emulsification.
  • an infiltration structure in which a hydrophilic skeleton constituting the amphiphilic polymer encloses the oil-soluble active ingredient and the hydrophobic functional group constituting the amphiphilic polymer penetrated into the oil-soluble active ingredient by processing it in a high-pressure emulsifier and subjected to high pressure treatment. Is obtained.
  • the hydrophilic skeleton constituting the amphiphilic polymer surrounds the oil-soluble active ingredient, and the hydrophobic functional group constituting the amphiphilic polymer and the cationic polymer penetrate the inside of the oil-soluble active ingredient. An infiltration structure is obtained.
  • the high-pressure treatment is performed under 50 to 40,000 psi to provide an infiltration structure having an average particle size of 50 to 500 nm, which is advantageous for the hairdressing feel.
  • the composition comprises hydroxypropylgua, hydroxypropylcellulose, 4-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, and 2- It may further include one or more of one or more hydroxyacetophenone preservatives, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and pigments selected from hydroxyacetophenone.
  • the cosmetic prepared by the present invention has a pH of 3.5 to 7 when applied to water-soaked hair, a viscosity (1.5 rpm, room temperature, stable) of 15,000 to 55,000 cP, and an increase in heat generation before and after application to water-stained hair is 3 to It is preferably 10°C.
  • oil-soluble active ingredients including amphiphilic polymer, oily component and polyquaternium are first provided by homogeneous treatment to provide an infiltration structure, and then the remaining components are added and dispersed, without a heating process. Can be stably dispersed.
  • Example 1 the graft conjugate of Example 1, in which hydroxypropylmethylcellulose stearoxy ether was applied alone, and Example 2 and Examples, in which hydroxypropylmethylcellulose stearoxyether and polyquaternium-11 were applied.
  • the graft conjugate of 3 was prepared.
  • the raw material 1 was put in a production tank, heated to 75° C., and then 2 was added and dispersed and dissolved for 5 minutes at 1,500 rpm using a disper mixer.
  • the raw materials 3 to 4 shown in Table 1 were placed in a production tank and dissolved by heating to 80° C. while stirring at 1,000 to 1500 rpm with a homomixer. Then, 5 to 6 were added and dissolved and maintained at 75 to 80°C.
  • the high-pressure condition of 20,000 psi was repeatedly passed through three times using a high-pressure emulsifier, and graft conjugates each having an infiltration structure shown in the schematic diagram of FIG.
  • the raw materials 2 to 5 were added and dissolved by heating to 75°C. Then it was cooled to 50°C.
  • the pH of the prepared Example 4 was 5.1, the specific gravity was 0.93, the pH of Example 5 was 5.2, the specific gravity was 0.94, the pH of Example 6 was 4.9, the specific gravity was 0.94, and the pH of Comparative Example 1 was 4.5.
  • the specific gravity was 0.93, the pH of Comparative Example 2 was 4.8, the specific gravity was 0.92, the pH of Reference Example 1 was 5.0, and the specific gravity was 0.92.
  • the hair bundles impregnated with the sample were rubbed evenly for 3 minutes, then rinsed for 1 minute in flowing tap water, and the feeling of use before and after use was evaluated [see Figs. 6 and 7].
  • Viscosity The degree of not flowing when simply applied to wet hair was evaluated in 5 steps: 5) Very high viscosity 4) High 3) Moderate 2) Flow 1) Very low.
  • Rinseability The degree to which bubbles are easily removed when rinsing was evaluated in 5 steps: 5) Very good 4) Good 3) Moderate 2) Bad 1) Very bad.
  • Test Example 1 After storing the samples of Test Example 1 in an oven at room temperature and 40°C, respectively, the stability of the product (a sense of foreign body, homogeneity of contents, change in properties) was confirmed through visual analysis after a certain period of time.
  • Example 4 and Comparative Example 1 were mixed with water in a weight ratio of 1:9 (Sample 1: Water 9), stirred, and then the viscosity was measured at 25°C using a Brookfield viscometer. As a result, it was confirmed that it was 5,000 cps in Example 4 and 2,500 cps in Comparative Example 1, and a suspension formulation corresponding to the photograph shown by symbol 2 in FIGS. 2 and 3 was shown.
  • Example 2 Water 8
  • second viscosity the viscosity (second viscosity) was measured using a Brookfield viscometer at 25°C. It was measured. As a result, it was confirmed that it was 45,000 cps in Example 4 and 33,000 cps in Comparative Example 1, and it can be seen that the cream formulation corresponding to the photograph shown by symbol 3 in FIGS. 2 and 3 is shown.
  • the degree of heat generated in the treatment cosmetic composition for hair and scalp care is due to the hydration breaking the hydrogen bonds of water and creating an ion-dipole. That is, when polyols such as propylene glycol and butylene glycol meet an excess of water, the enthalpy of dissolution exhibits a negative value, which corresponds to the principle that an exothermic reaction occurs.
  • an amphiphilic polymer and a cationic polymer are used, and further provided as an infiltration structure physically fixed in the graft conjugate or blended in an appropriate amount, it is not affected by external environmental factors and does not fall from the hair even with physical stimulation. You can see that you can keep it well.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique pour le traitement des cheveux et du cuir chevelu, la composition cosmétique contenant, en tant que principes actifs, un polymère amphiphile et un composant actif soluble dans l'huile, un liquide, un toner, un brouillard ou une formulation d'essence de la composition cosmétique se transformant partiellement ou complètement en une formulation de crème après contact avec les cheveux qui sont humidifiés avec de l'eau.
PCT/KR2020/013315 2019-10-02 2020-09-29 Composition cosmétique pour le traitement des cheveux et du cuir chevelu, et son procédé de production WO2021066510A1 (fr)

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JP3549336B2 (ja) * 1995-10-12 2004-08-04 株式会社資生堂 水中油型乳化組成物
KR20110037909A (ko) * 2009-10-07 2011-04-13 존슨 앤드 존슨 컨수머 캄파니즈, 인코포레이티드 초친수성 양친매성 공중합체를 포함하는 조성물 및 이의 사용 방법
KR20160102566A (ko) * 2013-12-27 2016-08-30 로레알 케라틴 물질의 메이크업을 위한 전사 장치
KR101953559B1 (ko) * 2018-09-03 2019-03-04 주식회사 펠리즈코스 수중유형 화장료 조성물 및 그 제조방법
KR102114084B1 (ko) * 2020-01-07 2020-05-22 신홍철 모발 및 두피케어용 트리트먼트 화장료 조성물

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JP3549336B2 (ja) * 1995-10-12 2004-08-04 株式会社資生堂 水中油型乳化組成物
KR20110037909A (ko) * 2009-10-07 2011-04-13 존슨 앤드 존슨 컨수머 캄파니즈, 인코포레이티드 초친수성 양친매성 공중합체를 포함하는 조성물 및 이의 사용 방법
KR20160102566A (ko) * 2013-12-27 2016-08-30 로레알 케라틴 물질의 메이크업을 위한 전사 장치
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