WO2020153865A1 - Additif bio-actif pour produire un agent cosmétique à action régénérante et nutritive, et crème cosmétique régénérante et nutritive le comprenant - Google Patents

Additif bio-actif pour produire un agent cosmétique à action régénérante et nutritive, et crème cosmétique régénérante et nutritive le comprenant Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020153865A1
WO2020153865A1 PCT/RU2019/000039 RU2019000039W WO2020153865A1 WO 2020153865 A1 WO2020153865 A1 WO 2020153865A1 RU 2019000039 W RU2019000039 W RU 2019000039W WO 2020153865 A1 WO2020153865 A1 WO 2020153865A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cysts
extract
biologically active
essential oil
cosmetic
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PCT/RU2019/000039
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English (en)
Russian (ru)
Inventor
Наталия Александровна ДОБРЫНИНА
Original Assignee
Наталия Александровна ДОБРЫНИНА
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Priority to PCT/RU2019/000039 priority Critical patent/WO2020153865A1/fr
Publication of WO2020153865A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020153865A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the invention relates to cosmetic biologically active additives and cosmetics based on it and can be used in the cosmetic industry and medicine.
  • compositions of creams, ointments, emulsions based on the extract of crustaceans Artemia salina used in cosmetics for the prevention and treatment of skin and hair (French Patent JVr "2817748, IPC A61K 35/56, 7/48, publ. 14.06.2002,).
  • the closest analogue (prototype) is also known, which is a biologically active additive for medical and cosmetic preparations, which has an antiproliferative effect and is an aqueous or alcoholic extract of eggs (cysts) of crustaceans Artemia salina (US Patent JVfe6342254, IPC A61K 35/78, 35 / 12, published on January 29, 2002).
  • the tool is proposed to be used in medicine and cosmetics for the treatment and prevention of skin diseases.
  • BAA biologically active additive
  • the description of the RF patent J ° 2317714 also discloses the closest composition (prototype) of a cosmetic product based on a biologically active additive containing lipid and protein-amino acid fractions of an extract of crushed cysts of the crustacean genus Artemia (wt%): lipid and protein-amino acid fractions of the extract crushed Artemia crustacean cysts in a ratio of 500: 1 - 5.0-30.0; gel base - the rest is up to 100%.
  • the protein-amino acid fraction of the aqueous-alcoholic extract of the cysts of the crustacean Artemia salina is characterized by a fairly high content of proteins, irreplaceable and non-essential amino acids and other biologically active compounds.
  • the lipid fraction of the water-alcohol extract of the Artemia salina cysts contains polyunsaturated fatty acids, vitamins, steroids and hormone-like substances, growth factors and other fat-soluble biologically active compounds.
  • Dosed introduction of a protein-vitamin fraction into the lipid fraction (from 1000: 1 to 1: 1), depending on the purpose of the final product, provides a decrease in allergic reactions in consumers of this product.
  • the closest analogue is a biologically active additive based on cysts of the crustacean genus Artemia (RF patent N22340215, IPC A61L1 / 30, publ. 10.12.2008), characterized by the fact that it is a lipid-vitamin complex obtained by subcritical C0 2 - extraction (liquid carbon dioxide extractant) of crushed cysts of the crustacean of the genus Artemia, has an acid number of 69, an iodine number of 44.7, a peroxide number of less than 0.002%, a ratio of polyunsaturated fatty acids to essential fatty acids of 4: 1 and includes the following composition of components, wt%:
  • vitamin A retinol 0.35
  • vitamin E tocopherol
  • alpha-linolenic acid (C18: 3) 45.0
  • arachidonic acid (C20: 4) 0.8 eicosaenoic acid (C20: 1) 0.3 eicosatrienoic acid (C20: 3) 0.4
  • N22340215 patent also discloses the closest composition (prototype) of cosmetic products based on biologically active additive containing lipid-vitamin complex obtained subcritical C0 2 -extraction (liquid carbon dioxide extractant) crushed cysts kind of crustacean Artemia (wt.%): lipid-vitamin complex, obtained by subcritical C0 2 -extraction of crushed cysts of the crustacean genus Artemia 5.0-30.0; gel base - the rest is up to 100%.
  • the technical result of the claimed invention is to obtain a cosmetic biologically active additive and a cream based on it with a higher regenerating and nutritional effect by increasing the bioavailability of biologically active nutrients obtained from diets (eggs) and chorions of cysts of the crustacean genus Artemia by irradiation of ultrafine powder of cysts and chorions crustacean cysts Artemia by accelerated electrons in the indicated doses and its supercritical (gaseous) C0 2 extraction.
  • the biologically active additive for the cosmetic product and the regenerating nutrient action based on an extract from Artemia cysts crustacean kind according to the invention, as out the crustacean Artemia cysts genus extract it contains extract of supercritical C0 2 previously milled followed by irradiation by a stream of accelerated electrons obtained in a pulsed linear accelerator with an energy of accelerated electrons of 5.5-7 MeV and an absorbed radiation dose of at least 20 kGy, cysts or chorions of cysts of the crustacean genus Artemia or a mixture of these components in a ratio from 1: 4 to 4: 1.
  • the cosmetic regenerating and nourishing cream contains a gel-forming base and a biologically active additive according to claim 1 of the formula, which is a supercritical C0 2 -extract preliminarily crushed with subsequent irradiation with a stream of accelerated electrons obtained in a pulse linear accelerator with the energy of accelerated electrons of 5.5-7 MeV and an absorbed dose of radiation of at least 20 kGy, cysts or chorions of cysts of the crustacean of the genus Artemia or a mixture of these components, which are in a ratio from 1: 4 to 4: 1, as well as biologically active additives selected from: mixtures of rose essential oil, pine essential oil, rosemary essential oil, or a mixture of Juvinity TM, Chronoline TM, allantoin, sodium hyaluronate, C0 2 - rosemary leaf extract, vitamin A, grapefruit essential oil, ylang ylang essential oil, lemongrass essential oil , Vitamin E, Shea Butter, or
  • examples 1-4 are the claimed compositions of biologically active additives used for the preparation of regenerating and nourishing cosmetic creams.
  • Example 1 Supercritical C0 2 -extract preliminarily crushed to an ultrafine state with subsequent irradiation with a stream of accelerated electrons obtained in a pulsed linear accelerator with an accelerated electron energy of 5.5-7 MeV and an absorbed radiation dose of at least 20 kGy of Artemia cysts containing astaxanthin in the amount of 77 mg per 100 g of the product and omega 3 polyunsaturated fatty acids in the amount of 28.0 g in 100 g of the product.
  • Example 2 Supercritical C0 2 -extract preliminarily crushed to an ultrafine state with subsequent irradiation with a stream of accelerated electrons obtained in pulsed linear accelerator with the energy of accelerated electrons
  • Example 3 Supercritical C0 2 -extract preliminarily crushed to an ultrafine state with subsequent irradiation with a stream of accelerated electrons obtained in a pulsed linear accelerator with the energy of accelerated electrons
  • 5.5-7 MeV of absorbed dose of radiation is not less than 20 kGy crustacean Artemia cysts the content of astaxanthin in an amount of 70 mg per 100 g product and of polyunsaturated omega-3 fatty acids in an amount of 31.5 g per 100 g of product and the supercritical extract of C0 2 preliminarily crushed to an ultradispersed state followed by irradiation with a stream of accelerated electrons obtained in a pulsed linear accelerator with an accelerated electron energy of 5.5-7 MeV and an absorbed radiation dose of at least 20 kGy of chorions of Artemia cysts with an astaxanthin content of 50 mg per 100 g of product and polyunsaturated omega 3 fatty acids in an amount of 39.0 g per 100 g of product in a ratio of 1: 4.
  • Example 4 Supercritical C0 2 -extract preliminarily crushed to an ultrafine state, followed by irradiation with a stream of accelerated electrons obtained in a pulsed linear accelerator with the energy of accelerated electrons
  • the production of a product consists of the following stages:
  • the raw material (cysts of the crustacean Artemia or the chorions of these cysts) is manually cleaned of large foreign inclusions, then passed through a magnet catcher and sieved through a sieve. Further, the raw material is washed with running water on special pallets, the contaminated water is discharged into the sewer, and the washed raw material is transferred to the drying stage.
  • the preliminary drying of raw materials is carried out by flowing air supplied to pallets using a drying system. The subsequent stage of drying raw materials is carried out in a drying cabinet.
  • the product (Artemia cysts or their chorions) is placed in a dry heat cabinet for drying in order to match the amount of moisture not more than 3.0 wt.%.
  • Moisture content control is carried out using a moisture meter.
  • cysts the crystalline components of cysts (carbohydrates, glucosamine and chitin in crystalline forms) provide a more uniform distribution of the destructive force ("impact") applied to the destroyed animal material (cysts) in a ball mill.
  • impact the destructive force
  • chitin in cysts about 3.0 wt.%, which is a dry source of water molecules, allows simultaneously providing conditions for a quasi-hydrothermal soft grinding regime, preventing local overheating and the formation of peroxide and radical products in the reaction mixture.
  • particles of carbohydrate component and chitin, sorption (dry extraction) of biologically active components (iodine, vitamins, nucleic acids) of Artemia cysts occurs, while their beneficial properties are preserved. The resulting product is better absorbed by the body.
  • Particle size control is carried out on a microscope type XI 1-3.
  • the powdery product is packed in 1 kg each into 25 x 40 cm polyethylene bags with a polyethylene thickness of 100 microns.
  • a powder layer thickness of 3cm is formed and irradiated with a stream of accelerated electrons with a radiation absorption dose of at least 20 kGy, an energy of 5.5-7 MeV, an average beam power of 50 kW, an average beam current of 15 mA and a power consumption of 150 kW.
  • the ultrafine product is sterilized and its supramolecular complexes are destroyed, as a result of which the extractability and bioavailability of biologically active substances in the human body increase when using dietary supplements.
  • the supercritical (gas), C0 2 -extraction ultrafine powder obtained from cysts and chorions crustacean Artemia cysts is carried out using, for example, SFT-NPX-10 equipment.
  • This system contains a 10 liter extraction vessel for supercritical C0 2 -extraction, designed for operation up to 680 atmospheres and 120 ° C.
  • Supercritical C0 2 extraction from ultrafine powder of cysts and chorions of Artemia cysts is carried out at a temperature of + 45-50 ° C and a pressure of up to 350 atmospheres. This achieves a more in-depth processing of the specified raw materials.
  • Example 6 Regenerating, nourishing and rejuvenating face cream for women up to 45 years old
  • Example 7 Regenerating, nourishing and rejuvenating face cream for women after 45 years
  • Example 8 Regenerating, nourishing and rejuvenating face cream for men
  • compositions of cosmetic creams with regenerating and nourishing action are examples 5-8 of compositions of cosmetic creams with regenerating and nourishing action.
  • Anti-aging nourishing cream is intended for hand skin care (example 5).
  • the active components included in the composition make the skin of the hands smooth and silky, soften and nourish, improving the appearance.
  • Method of application apply a small amount of the cream to clean, dry skin of the hands, distribute with light massaging movements.
  • Anti-aging cream for women before and after 45 years (examples 6 and 7) is intended for the care of the skin of the face, neck and décolleté.
  • the active ingredients, vegetable oils and vitamins included in the composition soften and nourish the skin, give it firmness and elasticity, improve the appearance of the skin and reduce the visible signs of aging.
  • Anti-aging nourishing cream for men (example 8) is intended for facial skin care.
  • the active ingredients and vitamins included in the composition soften and nourish the skin, give firmness and elasticity, improve the appearance of the skin and reduce the visible signs of aging.
  • HYDRO VANCE® - (Hydroxyethyl urea) active ingredient improves elasticity and moisturizes the skin.
  • Liquid extract of cysts and / or chorions of Artemia crustacean (Astaxanthin + Omega-3 + Omega-6 + Iodine) - has an antioxidant effect, the polyunsaturated fatty acids in the composition intensively nourish the skin and reduce its sensitivity to external negative influences.
  • Lactic acid - promotes hydration, elasticity and firmness of the skin.
  • Juvinity TM is an active ingredient that helps to reduce the signs of aging of the skin of the face, neck and décolleté, smoothes wrinkles and gives the skin elasticity, protects against damage and oxidation.
  • Chronoline TM - an innovative peptide for the care of aging skin, has a prolonged action, gives firmness, improves elasticity, helps to reduce existing wrinkles and prevents the appearance of new ones.
  • H hyaluronic acid - promotes skin hydration and regeneration.
  • Phytessence TM French Oak is an active ingredient specially developed for men that helps reduce the signs of aging of the facial skin and smooth wrinkles, and makes the skin firmer.
  • Chronoline TM - an innovative peptide for the care of aging skin, has a prolonged action, gives firmness, improves elasticity, helps to reduce existing wrinkles and prevents the appearance of new ones.
  • Sepitonic M3 is a mineral complex (Mg + Cu + Zn), where Zn - normalizes the work of the sebaceous glands, thereby improving the condition of the skin, Si - tightens the skin, making it more elastic and elastic.
  • Vitamins - nourish, soften and vitaminize the skin have a soothing effect and help to eliminate dry skin.
  • a gel base is loaded into a reactor with a stirrer at a temperature of + (18-20) ° C and biologically active additives and other components are added with stirring according to the recipe given in examples 5-8.
  • the components are mixed for 20-30 minutes and the pH of the mixture is measured. If the pH of the mixture is below 7.2 (the gel has an acidic medium), then a phosphate-salt additive (Na 2 HP0 4 x 12H 0) is added to the composition in an amount sufficient to maintain a pH of 7.2 in the composition. Then the mixture is once again homogenized in the reactor for 20-30 minutes, the finished cosmetic product is packaged in a container and stored at a temperature of + 7 ° C.
  • the cold method of preparation of the cream allows you to maximize the activity of its constituent components.
  • the study in the experiment by the authors of the invention of the regenerating properties of the claimed cream has shown that the cream has wound healing and regenerating properties.
  • the experiments were carried out on white Wistar female rats weighing 180-220 g.
  • the incised wounds were reproduced under light ether anesthesia by cutting off a skin flap of the lateral surface of the rats 12-15 mm 2 in size.
  • the animals were divided into 4 groups of 25 animals each: 1 control group - no treatment; Group 2 - lanolin; 3 and 4 groups - the claimed cream.
  • the cream was started to be applied 24 hours after reproduction of the wound and continued for 14 days until complete regeneration.
  • the assessment of the wound healing properties of the inventive crustacean cyst cream was carried out in dynamics according to the size of the wound surface area on days 5, 9, 14 of the experiment. The research results are presented in table 2.
  • the claimed cream according to examples 6, 7 and 8 by the 11th day causes the complete disappearance of the skin wound (i.e. has a reparative and regenerating effect).
  • composition of the cosmetic cream is Cosmetic properties.
  • the above studies confirm the claimed technical result, namely: obtaining a cosmetic biologically active additive and cream based on it with a higher regenerating and nutritional effect by increasing the bioavailability of biologically active nutrients obtained from cysts (eggs) and chorions of cysts of the crustacean genus Artemia by irradiation with soot and cysts chorions crustacean Artemia cysts accelerated electrons at the indicated doses and supercritical (gas), C0 2 -extraction.
  • cysts eggs
  • chorions of cysts of the crustacean genus Artemia by irradiation with soot and cysts chorions crustacean Artemia cysts accelerated electrons at the indicated doses and supercritical (gas), C0 2 -extraction.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Zoology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un additif cosmétique bio-actif pour des agents cosmétiques à action régénérante et nutritive à base d'extraits de cystes de crustacés du genre Artemia obtenu par extraction supercritique C02 de cystes broyés ou de chorions de cystes de crustacés du genre Artemis ou d'un mélange desdits composants selon une concentration de 1:4 à 4:1, qui sont ensuite soumis à un rayonnement d'un flux d'électrons rapides. L'invention concerne également une crème régénérante et nutritive contenant l'additif bio-actif susmentionné.
PCT/RU2019/000039 2019-01-23 2019-01-23 Additif bio-actif pour produire un agent cosmétique à action régénérante et nutritive, et crème cosmétique régénérante et nutritive le comprenant WO2020153865A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/RU2019/000039 WO2020153865A1 (fr) 2019-01-23 2019-01-23 Additif bio-actif pour produire un agent cosmétique à action régénérante et nutritive, et crème cosmétique régénérante et nutritive le comprenant

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PCT/RU2019/000039 WO2020153865A1 (fr) 2019-01-23 2019-01-23 Additif bio-actif pour produire un agent cosmétique à action régénérante et nutritive, et crème cosmétique régénérante et nutritive le comprenant

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WO2020153865A1 true WO2020153865A1 (fr) 2020-07-30

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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1049455A1 (fr) * 1998-01-29 2000-11-08 Coty B.V. Produit cosmetique a base d'extraits d'artemia salina pour la regeneration et la stimulation des cellules de la peau
RU2242216C1 (ru) * 2003-04-28 2004-12-20 Открытое акционерное общество "Косметическое объединение "Свобода" Лифтинг-крем "д" для сухой и чувствительной кожи
RU2340215C2 (ru) * 2005-11-21 2008-12-10 Александр Федорович Осипчук БИОЛОГИЧЕСКИ АКТИВНАЯ ДОБАВКА НА ОСНОВЕ ЦИСТ РАЧКА Artemia salina И ПРОДУКТ ДЛЯ НАРУЖНОГО ИЛИ ВНУТРЕННЕГО ПРИМЕНЕНИЯ НА ЕЕ ОСНОВЕ
RU2429865C1 (ru) * 2010-05-24 2011-09-27 Надежда Николаевна Прутовых Средство, обладающее репаративным и ранозаживляющим действием
FR3016126B1 (fr) * 2014-01-08 2017-06-23 Isp Investments Inc Utilisation cosmetique d'un extrait d'artemia salina pour proteger la peau des stress thermiques
WO2017123110A1 (fr) * 2016-01-12 2017-07-20 Наталия Александровна ДОБРЫНИНА Procédé de production d'un complément alimentaire à partir des cystes du crustacé artemia

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1049455A1 (fr) * 1998-01-29 2000-11-08 Coty B.V. Produit cosmetique a base d'extraits d'artemia salina pour la regeneration et la stimulation des cellules de la peau
RU2242216C1 (ru) * 2003-04-28 2004-12-20 Открытое акционерное общество "Косметическое объединение "Свобода" Лифтинг-крем "д" для сухой и чувствительной кожи
RU2340215C2 (ru) * 2005-11-21 2008-12-10 Александр Федорович Осипчук БИОЛОГИЧЕСКИ АКТИВНАЯ ДОБАВКА НА ОСНОВЕ ЦИСТ РАЧКА Artemia salina И ПРОДУКТ ДЛЯ НАРУЖНОГО ИЛИ ВНУТРЕННЕГО ПРИМЕНЕНИЯ НА ЕЕ ОСНОВЕ
RU2429865C1 (ru) * 2010-05-24 2011-09-27 Надежда Николаевна Прутовых Средство, обладающее репаративным и ранозаживляющим действием
FR3016126B1 (fr) * 2014-01-08 2017-06-23 Isp Investments Inc Utilisation cosmetique d'un extrait d'artemia salina pour proteger la peau des stress thermiques
WO2017123110A1 (fr) * 2016-01-12 2017-07-20 Наталия Александровна ДОБРЫНИНА Procédé de production d'un complément alimentaire à partir des cystes du crustacé artemia

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