WO2020099749A2 - Cosmetic composition capable of turning into powder - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition capable of turning into powder Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020099749A2
WO2020099749A2 PCT/FR2019/052528 FR2019052528W WO2020099749A2 WO 2020099749 A2 WO2020099749 A2 WO 2020099749A2 FR 2019052528 W FR2019052528 W FR 2019052528W WO 2020099749 A2 WO2020099749 A2 WO 2020099749A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
skin
weight
composition according
powders
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/FR2019/052528
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French (fr)
Other versions
WO2020099749A3 (en
Inventor
Magali Millet
Amandine Gadret
Nicolas VERRECCHIA
Original Assignee
Laboratoires M&L
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Laboratoires M&L filed Critical Laboratoires M&L
Priority to EP19813380.3A priority Critical patent/EP3880313A2/en
Priority to JP2021525810A priority patent/JP2022507312A/en
Priority to CN201980074449.3A priority patent/CN113272023A/en
Publication of WO2020099749A2 publication Critical patent/WO2020099749A2/en
Publication of WO2020099749A3 publication Critical patent/WO2020099749A3/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/34—Free of silicones

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a balm comprising defined quantities of powders, pasty fatty substances and oil, as well as a particular fatty phase gelling agent, which composition is capable of transforming into powder after application to the skin. It also relates to the use of this composition for caring for and / or making up the skin, in particular for masking skin imperfections, such as wrinkles, pores, dark circles and / or oily skin.
  • compositions generally intended for making up the skin, have appeared on the market, which are in the form of an anhydrous balm capable of being transformed into powder by light massage on the skin.
  • These compositions have the advantage of containing large quantities of powders suitable for masking skin imperfections, tightening the pores, matifying the skin and / or imparting a velvety appearance to the skin, while being easy to dose and pleasant to apply, including understood on the finger, due to their melting texture.
  • these compositions are better suited for dry or dehydrated skin than powder textures. Powders are also less likely to migrate into fine lines and wrinkles when they are conveyed in a composition in the form of a balm.
  • compositions generally contain silicone compounds, in particular volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, combined with silicone elastomers and / or silicone resins or other synthetic compounds of petrochemical origin, such as linear and branched paraffins associated with styrene copolymers.
  • silicones in cosmetic products is increasingly contested because of, on the one hand, their bioaccumulation, especially in aquatic systems and, on the other hand, a suspicion of endocrine disrupting effect which weighs on certain silicones. We are also looking to replace materials petrochemical raw materials to anticipate the depletion of petroleum resources.
  • Stabilization of this type of composition also constitutes a challenge, insofar as they are rich in oils which tend to release and thus form an oily film on the surface of the composition.
  • the increase in the rate of powders and pasty fatty substances can certainly limit this phenomenon, but this improvement is obtained at the expense of the sensoriality of the product which becomes very hard and braking and lacks evanescence on application.
  • compositions devoid of silicone compounds and adapted to transform into powder after application to the skin have been described in document US 2017/0143616. These compositions all contain from 20 to 50% of specific powders, from 3 to 15% of a lipophilic gelling agent which may be the triester of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid and at least 20% of oils, as well as optionally of pasty fatty substance.
  • a lipophilic gelling agent which may be the triester of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid and at least 20% of oils, as well as optionally of pasty fatty substance.
  • the compositions exemplified in this document do not however contain pasty fatty substances and the weight ratio of powders to oils is always less than 1.2 and generally 1.0.
  • the subject of the invention is therefore an anhydrous cosmetic composition containing:
  • At least one fatty phase structuring agent comprising (i) at least one fatty phase gelling agent, chosen from: hydrophobic modified clays, hydrophobic modified pyrogenic silicas, dextrin palmitate or myristate, mixtures of glycerides of fatty acids C16-C26, the triesters of linear fatty acids saturated in CV C30, optionally hydroxylated, and of mono- or polyglycerol, cellulose derivatives and their mixtures, and (ii) at least one pasty fatty substance, which is a fatty substance with reversible liquid / solid state change, having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction,
  • the above percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of the composition, the weight ratio between the total amount of powders (a) and pasty fatty substances (c) (ii) and the amount of oil (b) being between 1.6 and 2.6 and the composition being free of bicarbonate salt, and not containing a silicone compound.
  • the subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of this composition for caring for and / or making up the skin, in particular for masking skin imperfections, such as wrinkles, pores, and / or oily skin and / or to correct blemishes, such as dull, yellow, dark circles, age spots and redness. It also relates to the cosmetic use of the above composition as a skin care composition or as a makeup base.
  • a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the skin in particular for masking skin imperfections, such as wrinkles, pores, and / or oily skin, and / or for correcting skin imperfections, such as dull complexion, yellow complexion, dark circles, age spots and redness, comprising the application to the skin of the above composition.
  • composition according to the invention is easy to spread on the skin and gives the latter, after application, a velvety and powdery finish without feeling of discomfort, in particular of dryness. It is stable over time and / or in temperature and can in particular be stored for at least four weeks at 50 ° C., corresponding to storage for approximately thirty-six months at room temperature, without its appearance being substantially modified, in particular without the phenomenon of exudation, sedimentation of powders or phase separation being observed.
  • composition according to the invention is an anhydrous composition, in the sense that it contains less than 5% by weight of water, advantageously less than 3% by weight of water, or even less than 1% by weight of water. In any event, it is preferable for the water contained in the composition to be provided only by its constituent ingredients.
  • composition contains one or more oils.
  • oil means a compound which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa) which, when it is introduced in an amount of at least 1% by weight in l water at 25 ° C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble up to less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into the water.
  • the oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
  • non-volatile oil is meant in this description an oil remaining on the skin at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure for at least one hour, in the absence of friction, and / or having a pressure of vapor below 0.001 mm Hg under these conditions.
  • the oils included in the composition according to the invention may or may not be volatile; they are advantageously non-volatile. As a variant, it may be a mixture of non-volatile oils (majority by weight) and volatile oils (majority by weight). Examples of volatile oils are in particular linear Cn to C 14 alkanes and branched C 12 -C 16 alkanes. In addition, it is preferred that the non-volatile oils are chosen from hydrocarbon oils, that is to say that they contain exclusively carbon, hydrogen and optionally oxygen atoms.
  • non-volatile oils examples include:
  • esters of acids and mono-alcohol chosen from: mono- and polyesters of linear C 2 -C 10 saturated acids (preferably in CV.-Cio) and of linear mono-alcohols saturated in Cio-Cis (preferably C10-C14), mono- and polyesters of C 10 -C 20 saturated linear acids and of branched or unsaturated C 3 -C 20 mono-alcohols (preferably C3-C10); mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 acids and of branched or unsaturated C 5 -C 20 mono alcohols; mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated C 5 -C 20 acids and of linear C 2 -C 4 mono-alcohols;
  • triglycerides of C6-C12 fatty acids such as triglycerides of caprylic and capric acids and triheptanoin;
  • C10-C20 fatty acids such as linoleic, lauric and myristic acids
  • C10-C20 fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol
  • hydrocarbons such as vegetable squalane extracted from olive oil
  • dialkyl carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate and diethylhexyl carbonate
  • dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether
  • esters of acids and monoalcohols mention may in particular be made of monoesters such as the mixture of caprate and coconut caprylate, ethyl macadamate, the ester shea butter ethyl, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, hexyl neopentanoate, ethylhexyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate , isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl nonanoate, propylheptyl capylate and mixtures thereof.
  • monoesters such as the mixture
  • esters which can be used are the diesters of acids and monoalcohols such as disopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate and diisoamyl sebacate. It is preferred to use an ester of acid (s) and monoalcohol (s) of plant origin such as the mixture of caprate and coconut caprylate.
  • Examples of vegetable oils are in particular the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, argan, hibiscus, coriander, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soy, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, black currant, evening primrose, lavender, borage, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower,nadooulier, passionflower, muscat rose or camellia.
  • Preferred oils for use in the present invention are the mono and polyesters of saturated linear acids in C2-C10 (preferably in CY.-Cio) and of linear monoalcohols saturated in Cio-Cis (preferably C10-C14 ), triglycerides of C6-C12 fatty acids, dialkyl ethers and their mixtures.
  • the oils can represent from 20 to 40%, preferably from 25 to 30%, of the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of mono- and polyesters of C 2 -C 10 saturated linear acids and of Cio-Cis saturated linear mono-alcohols, when present, is less than 30% of the total weight of the composition and preferably less than or equal to 25% of the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention contains from 20 to 50% by weight, and in particular from 30 to 45% by weight, of one or more powders, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the powders considered may be any material in powder form, whatever its function, which is more particularly chosen from fillers, pigments, nacres and flakes and their mixtures. It is preferred that the fillers represent at least 50% of the weight of the powders and more preferably from 60 to 100% or even from 80 to 100% of the weight of the powders.
  • fillers is meant particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or organic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is produced. These fillers can fulfill different functions in the composition and in particular matify the skin and / or blur skin irregularities (pores, dark circles, wrinkles, etc.). They can also modify the texture and in particular the feel of the composition.
  • pigments are meant colored particles of any shape, mineral or organic, insoluble in the medium of the composition whatever the temperature at which the composition is produced and which are intended to color the skin after application of the composition. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments, of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron, titanium or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue.
  • metal oxides in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron, titanium or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue.
  • pigments of type D & C lacquers based on barium, strontium, calcium, or aluminum and As charcoal and flakes, there may be mentioned mineral particles of different natures, in particular based on natural or synthetic mica (fluorphlogopite), borosilicate, silica or alumina, covered with one or more c ouches of metal oxides (in particular of titanium, iron, chromium and / or bismuth oxychloride).
  • At least one filler which is in the form of porous or hollow microparticles, preferably porous. These microparticles are in principle substantially spherical.
  • These charges can in particular be chosen from: - organic fillers such as: powders of polysaccharides and in particular of native starch, modified starch or cellulose; powders of acrylic polymers such as poly (methyl methacrylate), polyamides, polyolefins (including polyethylene); dried seaweed powders such as Corallina officinalis;
  • inorganic fillers such as silica, clays, perlite, talc, mica, boron nitride, hydroxyapatite, glass and ceramics;
  • composite powders consisting of at least one of the above powders coated with at least one other of these powders, the composite powders obtained being for example in the form of core-shell particles.
  • modified starches are particularly preferred for use in the present invention.
  • the starches are preferably chosen from corn, rice, tapioca or wheat starch, modified or not.
  • modified starches are starches which are optionally pre-gelatinized and / or oxidized, which are esterified with an alkenylsuccinic anhydride, in particular with octenylsuccinic anhydride or dodecylsuccinic, optionally in the presence of calcium chloride, as well as etherified starches, in particular hydroxypropylated or carboxymethylated, and cationic starches, in particular quaternized. Mention may also be made of starch crosslinked by sodium trimetaphosphate.
  • the composition according to the invention contains a combination of certain fatty phase structuring agents.
  • fatty phase structuring is meant a compound capable of thickening the oils contained in the composition, chosen in particular from waxes, fatty phase gelling agents and pasty fatty substances, as well as their mixtures.
  • wax designates, in the context of this description, a fatty substance solid at 25 ° C., with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point generally between 30 and 160 ° C, preferably between 50 and 90 ° C, as measured by DSC.
  • waxes are in particular waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, Chinese insect, candelilla, camauba or acacia; vegetable oils hydrogenated and esterified with a C 8 -C 18 fatty alcohol, in particular rapeseed, soybean, sunflower, jojoba, copra and castor oil; esters of C14-C30 saturated linear fatty acids and C16-C36 saturated linear fatty alcohols; linear and saturated C10-C30 acids; linear and saturated C8-C30 alcohols; and their mixtures.
  • animal or vegetable origin such as beeswax, Chinese insect, candelilla, camauba or acacia
  • vegetable oils hydrogenated and esterified with a C 8 -C 18 fatty alcohol in particular rapeseed, soybean, sunflower, jojoba, copra and castor oil
  • esters of C14-C30 saturated linear fatty acids and C16-C36 saturated linear fatty alcohols linear and saturated C10-C30 acids; linear and saturated
  • the waxes can represent from 1 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • fatty phase gelling agents reference is made to the compounds modifying the rheology of the fatty phase by formation of a three-dimensional network.
  • the compounds of this type used according to the invention are hydrophobic modified clays (in particular bentonites and hectorites), in particular with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride; hydrophobic modified fumed silicas; dextrin palmitate and myristate; mixtures of glycerides of fatty acids (preferably saturated and linear) C16-C26 such as Nomcort ® HKG compound or triesters of saturated linear fatty acids and C8-C30, optionally hydroxylated, and mono- or polyglycerol , such as glycerol trihydroxystearate; cellulose derivatives; and their mixtures.
  • the fatty phase gelling agent advantageously comprises at least one triester of glycerol and hydroxy stearic acid, preferably the triester of 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, identified by the INCI name "TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN” and which is in particular commercially available. from the company Elementis Specialties under the tradename Thixcin ® R. other oily phase gelling agents may alternatively or additionally be included in the composition, for example selected from those listed above.
  • the fatty phase gelling agents can represent from 3 to 10% of the weight of the composition.
  • pasty fatty substances that can be used as fatty phase structuring agents are defined as fatty substances with reversible liquid / solid state change, having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state and comprising a liquid fraction at a temperature of 23 ° C. and a solid fraction.
  • the starting melting point of the pasty fatty substance can be less than 23 ° C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the pasty fatty substance.
  • This liquid fraction at 23 ° C preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999 and measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).
  • the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at 23 ° C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C to pass from the solid state to the liquid state over the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance .
  • the pasty fatty substance can in particular be chosen from:
  • polyol ethers such as pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers
  • polyol esters and more particularly: (a) polyglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as the product sold under the brand name Softisan ® 649 by Sasol, or a polyglycerol ester (obtained by condensation of two to ten, preferably three or four, glycerol units) and of a fatty acid containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as 3-polygyceryl polyricinoleate, (b) pentaerythritol esters, (c) the esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid, if appropriate, esterified on their alcohol (s) or free acid (s) function (s), in particular the dimer dilin
  • pasty fatty substances are chosen from: vegetable butters, hydrogenated vegetable oils, and their mixtures.
  • the pasty fatty substances can represent from 10 to 35% by weight, preferably from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty phase structuring agent contains in particular, as pasty fatty substance, at least one ester of polyglycerol and of a fatty acid containing from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, chosen for example from saturated linear acids, saturated branched acids, monounsaturated linear acids and their mixtures, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated.
  • polyglycerol esters can come from the functionalization of vegetable waxes.
  • This product can represent from 0.1 to 5% and preferably from 0.5 to 3% of the total weight of the composition.
  • this constituent is particularly useful in the case where it is desired to incorporate into the composition according to the invention at least one polyol, which can for example be chosen from alkane diols and alkane triols, such as glycerin, propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), dipropylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, butane-1,2-diol , butane-1,4-diol, butane-2,3-diol, butane-1,3-diol, pentane-1,5-diol, pentane-1,2-diol, hexane- 1,6-diol, octane-1,8-diol, 2-methylpentane-2,4-diol, methylpropanediol, isopentyldiol or a mixture thereof. It is preferred to use glycerin or propylene glycol, advantageous
  • An important characteristic of the present invention which guarantees the stability of the composition, is constituted by the ratio between the total amount of powders (a) and pasty fatty substances (c) (ii) and the amount of oil (s) (b) which is between 1.6 and 2.6, for example between 1.7 and 2.5 and preferably between 1.8 and 2.0. It has in fact been observed that a ratio [(a) + (c) (ii)] / (b) of less than 1.6 gives rise to stability problems, in particular the release of oil at the surface of the composition. In addition, a ratio greater than 2.6 leads to a composition which is too hard, thick and / or which spreads with difficulty on the skin.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise additives chosen in particular from UV filters, perfumes, antioxidants such as tocopherol, dyes, preservatives and their mixtures.
  • UV filters which can be used according to the invention include organic or inorganic UV filters active in UVA and / or UVB.
  • the organic screening agents may be chosen especially from: benzophenones such as that identified by the INCI name diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl HEXYL BENZOATE (Uvinul ® A Plus from BASF) and benzophenone-3; benzotriazoles, such as that identified by the name INCI METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (Tinosorb ® M from BASF); triazines such as those identified by the INCI names Ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul ® T 150 from BASF) and BIS ETH YLHEXYLOX YPHEN OL methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S ® BASF); benzimidazoles, such as that identified by the name INCI PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID (Eusolex ® 232 from MERCK); hydroxybenzoates, such as ETHYL
  • Inorganic UV filters are coated or uncoated metallic oxide pigments, such as, for example, titanium oxide pigments (amorphous or crystallized in rutile form and / or anatase), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium.
  • the inorganic UV filters which can be used according to the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 ⁇ m, more preferably between 0.05 and 0.5 ⁇ m, and even more preferably between 0.010 and 0.1 pm, and even more particularly between 0.015 and 0.050 pm.
  • the coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin) , alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
  • a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin) , alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides
  • dyes which can be used in the composition according to the invention mention may in particular be made of azo dyes and triarylmethanes, compounds of the phthalo family and plant dyes, among which there may be mentioned in particular:
  • the indigo dyes which can in particular be extracted from the following plants: the persicaria (Persicaria tinctoria or Polygonum tinctorium), the indigo tree (Indigofera tinctoria), Y Indigofera suffruticosa, Y Indigofera arrecta, locust (Lonchocarpus cyanescens), wallflower (Cheiranthus fenestralis), pastel;
  • Chlorophylls a, b c and d Chlorophylls a, b c and d
  • flavonoids including flavanols and anthocyanidols which may be derived from saplings (Réséda luteola), for example;
  • composition according to the invention does not contain a synthetic polymer.
  • this composition contains an amount of at least 90% by weight of ingredients of plant origin, as determined according to standard ASTM D7026.
  • composition according to the invention is in the form of a cream or balm. It may be a skin care composition, in particular an anti-aging or moisturizing composition, a makeup base or a makeup composition, such as a foundation, a blush. or an eyeshadow.
  • composition according to the invention is generally intended to be applied to the face, the neck and / or the Vietnameselleté. As a variant, it can be applied to the whole body, in particular to the face, the neck, the Vietnameselleté, the bust, the hands, the arms, the feet, the legs and / or the belly. This composition can be applied one or more times a day, for example morning and / or evening.
  • Example 1 Balm capable of transforming into powder
  • a balm was prepared by mixing the ingredients below, and in the weight proportions indicated below.
  • This balm was prepared by mixing and heating the constituents of phase A to 75 ° C, then cooling between 60 and 65 ° C followed by the introduction of phase B.
  • the mixture was turbinated in a rotor-type device. stator for 20 minutes, then cooled below 50 ° C before adding the other constituents one by one, with stirring using a deflocculating turbine.
  • the product obtained was then packaged in pots between 42 and 45 ° C.
  • Example 2 Stability test
  • compositions A to H according to the invention were prepared and two comparative compositions I and J in a similar manner to Example 1, by varying only the nature of the oils, as well as the amounts of oil, of pasty fatty substances and of powders and hence the ratio (R) of the total amount of powders and pastes to the total amount of oil.
  • compositions were then evaluated after storage at 50 ° C for one month.
  • compositions A to H according to the invention are stable, that is to say that they have a homogeneous appearance, after several weeks of storage at 50 ° C., unlike the comparative compositions I and J which show phenomena of exudation after only one week of storage at this temperature.
  • Example 3 Sensory tests A composition according to the invention was evaluated, in a sensory analysis booth, by a panel of 20 women of 35 years of middle age, mainly having normal to dry facial skin. The volunteers applied the desired quantity of product to the entire face, before responding to a questionnaire just after application. 75% of the panelists considered that the composition was pleasant in terms of its texture (rich but not oily), its ease of application and its comfortable rendering, the skin appearing soft but neither shiny nor sticky.

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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition containing from 20 to 50% by weight of at least one powder, from 20 to 40% by weight of at least one oil, and at least one fat phase structuring agent comprising (i) at least one fat phase gelling agent and (ii) at least one paste-type fat substance, the above percentages being expressed in relation to the total weight of the composition, the weight ratio between the total amount of powders and paste-type fat substances and the amount of oil being between 1.6 and 2.6, and the composition not containing bicarbonate salt or any silicone compound. This composition can be used in skincare and/or make up, in particular for masking imperfections of the skin such as wrinkles, pores and/or greasy skin and/or for masking or correcting imperfections in the complexion such as a dull or yellow complexion, dark circles, age spots and red patches.

Description

COMPOSITION COSMETIQUE APTE A SE TRANSFORMER EN POUDRE  COSMETIC COMPOSITION CAPABLE OF CONVERTING TO POWDER
OBJET DE L’INVENTION La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique sous forme de baume comprenant des quantités définies de poudres, de corps gras pâteux et d'huile, ainsi qu'un gélifiant de phase grasse particulier, laquelle composition est apte à se transformer en poudre après application sur la peau. Elle concerne également l'utilisation de cette composition pour le soin et/ou le maquillage de la peau, notamment pour masquer les imperfections cutanées, telles que les rides, les pores, les cernes et/ou la peau grasse. OBJECT OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a balm comprising defined quantities of powders, pasty fatty substances and oil, as well as a particular fatty phase gelling agent, which composition is capable of transforming into powder after application to the skin. It also relates to the use of this composition for caring for and / or making up the skin, in particular for masking skin imperfections, such as wrinkles, pores, dark circles and / or oily skin.
ARRIERE-PLAN DE L’INVENTION Depuis quelques années sont apparues sur le marché des compositions cosmétiques, généralement destinées au maquillage de la peau, qui se présentent sous la forme d'un baume anhydre apte à se transformer en poudre par léger massage sur la peau. Ces compositions présentent l'avantage de renfermer de grandes quantités de poudres adaptées à masquer les imperfections cutanées, resserrer les pores, matifïer la peau et/ou conférer un aspect velouté à la peau, tout en étant faciles à doser et agréables à appliquer, y compris au doigt, en raison de leur texture fondante. En outre, ces compositions conviennent mieux aux peaux sèches ou déshydratées que les textures poudres. Les poudres ont également moins tendance à migrer dans les rides et ridules lorsqu'elles sont véhiculées dans une composition sous forme de baume. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION In recent years, cosmetic compositions, generally intended for making up the skin, have appeared on the market, which are in the form of an anhydrous balm capable of being transformed into powder by light massage on the skin. . These compositions have the advantage of containing large quantities of powders suitable for masking skin imperfections, tightening the pores, matifying the skin and / or imparting a velvety appearance to the skin, while being easy to dose and pleasant to apply, including understood on the finger, due to their melting texture. In addition, these compositions are better suited for dry or dehydrated skin than powder textures. Powders are also less likely to migrate into fine lines and wrinkles when they are conveyed in a composition in the form of a balm.
Ces compositions renferment généralement des composés siliconés, en particulier des huiles de silicone volatiles et non volatiles, associées à des élastomères de silicone et/ou des résines de silicone ou d'autres composés synthétiques d'origine pétrochimique, tels que des paraffines linéaires et ramifiées associées à des copolymères de styrène. L'emploi de silicones dans des produits cosmétiques est de plus en plus contesté à cause, d'une part, de leur bioaccumulation, notamment dans les systèmes aquatiques et, d'autre part, d'un soupçon d'effet de perturbateur endocrinien qui pèse sur certaines silicones. Par ailleurs, on cherche à remplacer les matières premières d'origine pétrochimique pour anticiper l'appauvrissement des ressources pétrolières. These compositions generally contain silicone compounds, in particular volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, combined with silicone elastomers and / or silicone resins or other synthetic compounds of petrochemical origin, such as linear and branched paraffins associated with styrene copolymers. The use of silicones in cosmetic products is increasingly contested because of, on the one hand, their bioaccumulation, especially in aquatic systems and, on the other hand, a suspicion of endocrine disrupting effect which weighs on certain silicones. We are also looking to replace materials petrochemical raw materials to anticipate the depletion of petroleum resources.
Il serait donc souhaitable de proposer un baume qui soit dépourvu de ces composés. It would therefore be desirable to propose a balm which is devoid of these compounds.
La stabilisation de ce type de compositions constitue en outre un défi, dans la mesure où elles sont riches en huiles qui ont tendance à relarguer et à former ainsi un film huileux à la surface de la composition. L'augmentation du taux de poudres et de corps gras pâteux peut certes limiter ce phénomène, mais cette amélioration est obtenue au détriment de la sensorialité du produit qui devient très dur et freinant et manque d’évanescence à l’application. Stabilization of this type of composition also constitutes a challenge, insofar as they are rich in oils which tend to release and thus form an oily film on the surface of the composition. The increase in the rate of powders and pasty fatty substances can certainly limit this phenomenon, but this improvement is obtained at the expense of the sensoriality of the product which becomes very hard and braking and lacks evanescence on application.
Une solution pour surmonter les problèmes de stabilité de ces compositions huileuses riches en poudres a été proposée dans le document KR 20100015025. Ce document divulgue une composition cosmétique colorée semi-solide, adaptée à se transformer en poudre au contact de la peau, qui renferme une combinaison de poudres dispersée dans une phase huileuse représentant au moins 25% du poids de la composition et constituée de trihydroxystéarine (triester d'acide hydroxystéarique et de glycérol), d'huile de silicone et d'huile hydrocarbonée. L'huile de silicone est une silicone volatile qui représente au moins 10% du poids de la composition. A solution to overcome the stability problems of these oily compositions rich in powders has been proposed in document KR 20100015025. This document discloses a colored semi-solid cosmetic composition, suitable for transforming into powder on contact with the skin, which contains a combination of powders dispersed in an oily phase representing at least 25% of the weight of the composition and consisting of trihydroxystearine (triester of hydroxystearic acid and glycerol), silicone oil and hydrocarbon oil. The silicone oil is a volatile silicone which represents at least 10% of the weight of the composition.
La solution proposée dans ce document ne permet donc pas de s'affranchir de l'utilisation de composés siliconés. Or, le consommateur est de plus en plus soucieux de la naturalité des ingrédients contenus dans les produits cosmétiques qu'il utilise. Il serait donc souhaitable de proposer une composition cosmétique sous forme de baume apte à se transformer en poudre qui soit majoritairement, voire exclusivement, constituée d'ingrédients d'origine naturelle. The solution proposed in this document therefore does not dispense with the use of silicone compounds. However, consumers are increasingly concerned about the naturalness of the ingredients contained in the cosmetic products they use. It would therefore be desirable to propose a cosmetic composition in the form of a balm capable of transforming into a powder which is mainly, or even exclusively, made up of ingredients of natural origin.
Des compositions cosmétiques dépourvues de composés siliconés et adaptées à se transformer en poudre après application sur la peau ont été décrites dans le document US 2017/0143616. Ces compositions renferment toutes de 20 à 50% de poudres particulières, de 3 à 15% d'un gélifiant lipophile qui peut être le triester de glycérol et d'acide 12-hydroxystéarique et au moins 20% d'huiles, ainsi qu' éventuellement des corps gras pâteux. Les compositions exemplifiées dans ce document ne renferment toutefois pas de corps gras pâteux et le rapport en poids des poudres aux huiles est toujours inférieur à 1,2 et généralement à 1,0. RESUME DE L’INVENTION Cosmetic compositions devoid of silicone compounds and adapted to transform into powder after application to the skin have been described in document US 2017/0143616. These compositions all contain from 20 to 50% of specific powders, from 3 to 15% of a lipophilic gelling agent which may be the triester of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid and at least 20% of oils, as well as optionally of pasty fatty substance. The compositions exemplified in this document do not however contain pasty fatty substances and the weight ratio of powders to oils is always less than 1.2 and generally 1.0. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
Il est apparu à la Demanderesse que les besoins précités pouvaient être satisfaits en formulant les poudres à appliquer sur la peau dans une composition renfermant un mélange de corps gras particulier dans un rapport pondéral donné. It appeared to the Applicant that the aforementioned needs could be satisfied by formulating the powders to be applied to the skin in a composition containing a mixture of particular fatty substances in a given weight ratio.
L’invention a ainsi pour objet une composition cosmétique anhydre renfermant :The subject of the invention is therefore an anhydrous cosmetic composition containing:
(a) de 20 à 50% en poids d'au moins une poudre choisie parmi les poudres organiques, les poudres inorganiques et leurs mélanges, (a) from 20 to 50% by weight of at least one powder chosen from organic powders, inorganic powders and their mixtures,
(b) de 20 à 40% en poids d'au moins une huile, et  (b) from 20 to 40% by weight of at least one oil, and
(c) au moins un structurant de phase grasse comprenant (i) au moins un gélifiant de phase grasse, choisi parmi : les argiles modifiées hydrophobes, les silices pyrogénées modifiées hydrophobes, le palmitate ou le myristate de dextrine, les mélanges de glycérides d'acides gras en C16-C26, les triesters d'acides gras linéaires et saturés en CV C30, éventuellement hydroxylés, et de mono- ou polyglycérol, les dérivés de cellulose et leurs mélanges, et (ii) au moins un corps gras pâteux, qui est un corps gras à changement d'état liquide / solide réversible, présentant à l'état solide une organisation cristalline anisotrope et comportant à une température de 23°C une fraction liquide et une fraction solide, (c) at least one fatty phase structuring agent comprising (i) at least one fatty phase gelling agent, chosen from: hydrophobic modified clays, hydrophobic modified pyrogenic silicas, dextrin palmitate or myristate, mixtures of glycerides of fatty acids C16-C26, the triesters of linear fatty acids saturated in CV C30, optionally hydroxylated, and of mono- or polyglycerol, cellulose derivatives and their mixtures, and (ii) at least one pasty fatty substance, which is a fatty substance with reversible liquid / solid state change, having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction,
les pourcentages ci-dessus étant exprimés par rapport au poids total de la composition, le rapport en poids entre la quantité totale de poudres (a) et de corps gras pâteux (c)(ii) et la quantité d’huile (b) étant compris entre 1,6 et 2,6 et la composition étant exempte de sel de bicarbonate, et ne renfermant pas de composé siliconé. the above percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of the composition, the weight ratio between the total amount of powders (a) and pasty fatty substances (c) (ii) and the amount of oil (b) being between 1.6 and 2.6 and the composition being free of bicarbonate salt, and not containing a silicone compound.
L’invention a également pour objet l'utilisation cosmétique de cette composition pour le soin et/ou le maquillage de la peau, notamment pour masquer les imperfections cutanées, telles que les rides, les pores, et/ou la peau grasse et/ou pour corriger les imperfections du teint, telles que le teint terne, le teint jaune, les cernes, les taches de sénescence et les rougeurs. Elle a encore pour objet l'utilisation cosmétique de la composition précitée comme composition de soin de la peau ou comme base de maquillage. The subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of this composition for caring for and / or making up the skin, in particular for masking skin imperfections, such as wrinkles, pores, and / or oily skin and / or to correct blemishes, such as dull, yellow, dark circles, age spots and redness. It also relates to the cosmetic use of the above composition as a skin care composition or as a makeup base.
Elle concerne enfin un procédé cosmétique de soin et/ou de maquillage de la peau, notamment pour masquer les imperfections cutanées, telles que les rides, les pores, et/ou la peau grasse, et/ou pour corriger les imperfections du teint, telles que le teint terne, le teint jaune, les cernes, les taches de sénescence et les rougeurs, comprenant l’application sur la peau de la composition précitée. Finally, it relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the skin, in particular for masking skin imperfections, such as wrinkles, pores, and / or oily skin, and / or for correcting skin imperfections, such as dull complexion, yellow complexion, dark circles, age spots and redness, comprising the application to the skin of the above composition.
La composition selon l'invention est facile à étaler sur la peau et confère à cette dernière, après application, un fini velouté et poudré sans sensation d’inconfort, notamment de sécheresse. Elle est stable dans le temps et/ou en température et peut en particulier être conservée pendant au moins quatre semaines à 50°C, correspondant à un stockage d'environ trente-six mois à température ambiante, sans que son aspect ne se trouve sensiblement modifié, notamment sans que l'on n'observe de phénomène d’exsudation, de sédimentation des poudres ou de séparation de phase. The composition according to the invention is easy to spread on the skin and gives the latter, after application, a velvety and powdery finish without feeling of discomfort, in particular of dryness. It is stable over time and / or in temperature and can in particular be stored for at least four weeks at 50 ° C., corresponding to storage for approximately thirty-six months at room temperature, without its appearance being substantially modified, in particular without the phenomenon of exudation, sedimentation of powders or phase separation being observed.
DESCRIPTION DETAILLEE DETAILED DESCRIPTION
La composition selon l’invention est une composition anhydre, en ce sens qu’elle renferme moins de 5% en poids d’eau , avantageusement moins de 3% en poids d’eau, voire moins de 1% en poids d’eau. En tout état de cause, on préfère que l’eau contenue dans la composition soit apportée uniquement par ses ingrédients constitutifs. The composition according to the invention is an anhydrous composition, in the sense that it contains less than 5% by weight of water, advantageously less than 3% by weight of water, or even less than 1% by weight of water. In any event, it is preferable for the water contained in the composition to be provided only by its constituent ingredients.
Cette composition renferme en revanche une ou plusieurs huiles. Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par "huile" un composé liquide à température ambiante (25°C) et pression atmosphérique (105 Pa) qui, lorsqu'il est introduit à raison d'au moins 1% en poids dans l'eau à 25°C, n'est pas du tout soluble dans l'eau, ou soluble à hauteur de moins de 10% en poids, par rapport au poids d'huile introduit dans l'eau. Les huiles peuvent être volatiles ou non volatiles. Par "huile non volatile", on entend dans cette description une huile restant sur la peau à 25°C et pression atmosphérique pendant au moins une heure, en l'absence de frottement, et/ou ayant une pression de vapeur inférieure à 0,001 mm Hg dans ces conditions. Les huiles incluses dans la composition selon l'invention peuvent ou non être volatiles ; elles sont avantageusement non volatiles. En variante, il peut s'agir d'un mélange d'huiles non volatiles (majoritaires en poids) et volatiles (minoritaires en poids). Des exemples d'huiles volatiles sont notamment les alcanes linéaires en Cn à Ci4 et les alcanes ramifiés en C12-C16. En outre, on préfère que les huiles non volatiles soient choisies parmi les huiles hydrocarbonées, c'est-à-dire qu'elles renferment exclusivement des atomes de carbone, d'hydrogène et éventuellement d'oxygène. This composition, on the other hand, contains one or more oils. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" means a compound which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa) which, when it is introduced in an amount of at least 1% by weight in l water at 25 ° C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble up to less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into the water. The oils can be volatile or non-volatile. By "non-volatile oil" is meant in this description an oil remaining on the skin at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure for at least one hour, in the absence of friction, and / or having a pressure of vapor below 0.001 mm Hg under these conditions. The oils included in the composition according to the invention may or may not be volatile; they are advantageously non-volatile. As a variant, it may be a mixture of non-volatile oils (majority by weight) and volatile oils (majority by weight). Examples of volatile oils are in particular linear Cn to C 14 alkanes and branched C 12 -C 16 alkanes. In addition, it is preferred that the non-volatile oils are chosen from hydrocarbon oils, that is to say that they contain exclusively carbon, hydrogen and optionally oxygen atoms.
Des exemples d’huiles non volatiles comprennent : Examples of non-volatile oils include:
- les esters d'acides et de mono-alcool choisis parmi : les mono- et polyesters d'acides linéaires saturés en C2-C10 (de préférence en CV.-Cio) et de mono-alcools linéaires saturés en Cio-Cis (de préférence C10-C14), les mono- et polyesters d'acides linéaires saturés en C10-C20 et de mono-alcools ramifiés ou insaturés en C3-C20 (de préférence C3-C10) ; les mono- et polyesters d'acides ramifiés ou insaturés en C5-C20 et de mono alcools ramifiés ou insaturés en C5-C20 ; les mono- et polyesters d'acides ramifiés ou insaturés en C5-C20 et de mono-alcools linéaires en C2-C4 ; - esters of acids and mono-alcohol chosen from: mono- and polyesters of linear C 2 -C 10 saturated acids (preferably in CV.-Cio) and of linear mono-alcohols saturated in Cio-Cis (preferably C10-C14), mono- and polyesters of C 10 -C 20 saturated linear acids and of branched or unsaturated C 3 -C 20 mono-alcohols (preferably C3-C10); mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 acids and of branched or unsaturated C 5 -C 20 mono alcohols; mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated C 5 -C 20 acids and of linear C 2 -C 4 mono-alcohols;
- les triglycérides d'acides gras en C6-C12, tels que les triglycérides d'acides caprylique et caprique et la triheptanoïne ;  - triglycerides of C6-C12 fatty acids, such as triglycerides of caprylic and capric acids and triheptanoin;
- les acides gras ramifiés et/ou insaturés en C10-C20 (tels que les acides linoléique, laurique et myristique) ;  - branched and / or unsaturated C10-C20 fatty acids (such as linoleic, lauric and myristic acids);
- les alcools gras ramifiés et/ou insaturés en C10-C20 (tels que l'octyldodécanol et l'alcool oléylique) ;  - branched and / or unsaturated C10-C20 fatty alcohols (such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol);
- les hydrocarbures tels que le squalane végétal extrait de l'huile d'olive ;  - hydrocarbons such as vegetable squalane extracted from olive oil;
- les carbonates de dialkyle, tels que le dicaprylyl carbonate et le diéthylhexyl carbonate ;  - dialkyl carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate and diethylhexyl carbonate;
- les dialkyléthers tels que le dicaprylyl éther ; et  - dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether; and
- leurs mélanges.  - their mixtures.
On peut également citer les huiles végétales qui contiennent un ou plusieurs des constituants précités.  Mention may also be made of vegetable oils which contain one or more of the above-mentioned constituents.
Comme esters d’acides et de monoalcools, on peut notamment citer les monoesters tels que le mélange de caprate et caprylate de coco, le macadamiate d’éthyle, l’ester éthylique de beurre de karité, l'isostéarate d'isostéaryle, l'isononanoate d'isononyle, l’isononanoate d’éthylhexyle, le néopentanoate d’hexyle, le néopentanoate d'éthylhexyle, le néopentanoate d'isodécyle, le néopentanoate d'isodécyle, le myristate d'isopropyle, le myristate d'octyldodécyle, le palmitate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'éthylhexyle, le laurate d'hexyle, le laurate d'isoamyle, le nonanoate de cétostéaryle, le capylate de propylheptyle et leurs mélanges. D’autres esters utilisables sont les diesters d’acides et de monoalcools tels que l’adipate de disopropyle, l’adipate de diéthylhexyle, le sébaçate de diisopropyle et le sébaçate de diisoamyle. On préfère utiliser un ester d'acide(s) et de monoalcool(s) d'origine végétale tel que le mélange de caprate et caprylate de coco. As esters of acids and monoalcohols, mention may in particular be made of monoesters such as the mixture of caprate and coconut caprylate, ethyl macadamate, the ester shea butter ethyl, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, hexyl neopentanoate, ethylhexyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate , isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl nonanoate, propylheptyl capylate and mixtures thereof. Other esters which can be used are the diesters of acids and monoalcohols such as disopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate and diisoamyl sebacate. It is preferred to use an ester of acid (s) and monoalcohol (s) of plant origin such as the mixture of caprate and coconut caprylate.
Des exemples d'huiles végétales sont notamment les huiles de germe de blé, de tournesol, d'argan, d'hibiscus, de coriandre, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de maïs, d'abricot, de ricin, de karité, d'avocat, d'olive, de soja, l'huile d'amande douce, de palme, de colza, de coton, de noisette, de macadamia, de jojoba, de luzerne, de pavot, de potimarron, de sésame, de courge, de colza, de cassis, d'onagre, de lavande, de bourrache, de millet, d'orge, de quinoa, de seigle, de carthame, de bancoulier, de passiflore, de rosier muscat ou de camélia. Examples of vegetable oils are in particular the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, argan, hibiscus, coriander, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soy, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, black currant, evening primrose, lavender, borage, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose or camellia.
Des huiles préférées pour une utilisation dans la présente invention sont les mono- et polyesters d'acides linéaires saturés en C2-C10 (de préférence en CY.-Cio) et de mono alcools linéaires saturés en Cio-Cis (de préférence C10-C14), les triglycérides d'acides gras en C6-C12, les dialkyléthers et leurs mélanges. Preferred oils for use in the present invention are the mono and polyesters of saturated linear acids in C2-C10 (preferably in CY.-Cio) and of linear monoalcohols saturated in Cio-Cis (preferably C10-C14 ), triglycerides of C6-C12 fatty acids, dialkyl ethers and their mixtures.
Les huiles peuvent représenter de 20 à 40%, de préférence de 25 à 30%, du poids total de la composition. The oils can represent from 20 to 40%, preferably from 25 to 30%, of the total weight of the composition.
Toutefois, on préfère que la quantité totale de mono- et polyesters d'acides linéaires saturés en C2-C10 et de mono-alcools linéaires saturés en Cio-Cis, lorsqu'ils sont présents, soit inférieure à 30% du poids total de la composition et de préférence inférieure ou égale à 25% du poids total de la composition. Comme indiqué précédemment, la composition selon l'invention renferme de 20 à 50% en poids, et notamment de 30 à 45% en poids, d’une ou plusieurs poudres, par rapport au poids total de la composition. However, it is preferred that the total amount of mono- and polyesters of C 2 -C 10 saturated linear acids and of Cio-Cis saturated linear mono-alcohols, when present, is less than 30% of the total weight of the composition and preferably less than or equal to 25% of the total weight of the composition. As indicated above, the composition according to the invention contains from 20 to 50% by weight, and in particular from 30 to 45% by weight, of one or more powders, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Les poudres considérées peuvent être tout matériau sous forme pulvérulente, quelle que soit sa fonction, qui est plus particulièrement choisi parmi les charges, les pigments, les nacres et paillettes et leurs mélanges. On préfère que les charges représentent au moins 50% du poids des poudres et plus préférentiellement de 60 à 100% voire de 80 à 100% du poids des poudres. Par "charges", il faut comprendre des particules de toute forme, incolores ou blanches, minérales ou organiques, insolubles dans le milieu de la composition quelle que soit la température à laquelle la composition est fabriquée. Ces charges peuvent remplir différentes fonctions dans la composition et notamment matifïer la peau et/ou flouter les irrégularités cutanées (pores, cernes, rides...). Elles peuvent également modifier la texture et en particulier le toucher de la composition. Par "pigments”, on entend des particules colorées de toute forme, minérales ou organiques, insolubles dans le milieu de la composition quelle que soit la température à laquelle la composition est fabriquée et qui sont destinées à colorer la peau après application de la composition. On peut citer, parmi les pigments minéraux, des oxydes métalliques, en particulier le dioxyde de titane, éventuellement traité en surface, les oxydes de zirconium, de zinc ou de cérium, ainsi que les oxydes de fer, de titane, ou de chrome, le violet de manganèse, le bleu outremer, l’hydrate de chrome et le bleu ferrique. Parmi les pigments organiques, on peut citer les pigments de type D & C, les laques à base de baryum, strontium, calcium, ou aluminium et le charbon végétal. Comme nacres et paillettes, on peut citer les particules minérales de différentes natures, en particulier à base de mica naturel ou synthétique (fluorphlogopite), de borosilicate, de silice ou d’alumine, recouvertes d’une ou plusieurs couches d’oxydes métalliques (en particulier d’oxydes de titane, de fer, de chrome et/ou d’oxychlorure de bismuth). The powders considered may be any material in powder form, whatever its function, which is more particularly chosen from fillers, pigments, nacres and flakes and their mixtures. It is preferred that the fillers represent at least 50% of the weight of the powders and more preferably from 60 to 100% or even from 80 to 100% of the weight of the powders. By "fillers" is meant particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or organic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is produced. These fillers can fulfill different functions in the composition and in particular matify the skin and / or blur skin irregularities (pores, dark circles, wrinkles, etc.). They can also modify the texture and in particular the feel of the composition. By "pigments" is meant colored particles of any shape, mineral or organic, insoluble in the medium of the composition whatever the temperature at which the composition is produced and which are intended to color the skin after application of the composition. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments, of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron, titanium or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of pigments of type D & C, lacquers based on barium, strontium, calcium, or aluminum and As charcoal and flakes, there may be mentioned mineral particles of different natures, in particular based on natural or synthetic mica (fluorphlogopite), borosilicate, silica or alumina, covered with one or more c ouches of metal oxides (in particular of titanium, iron, chromium and / or bismuth oxychloride).
On préfère utiliser au moins une charge se présentant sous forme de microparticules poreuses ou creuses, de préférence poreuses. Ces microparticules sont en principe sensiblement sphériques. Ces charges peuvent notamment être choisies parmi : - les charges organiques telles que : les poudres de polysaccharides et en particulier d'amidon natif, d'amidon modifié ou de cellulose ; les poudres de polymères acryliques tels que le poly(méthacrylate de méthyle), de polyamides, de polyoléfïnes (dont le polyéthylène) ; les poudres d'algues séchées telles que Corallina officinalis ; It is preferred to use at least one filler which is in the form of porous or hollow microparticles, preferably porous. These microparticles are in principle substantially spherical. These charges can in particular be chosen from: - organic fillers such as: powders of polysaccharides and in particular of native starch, modified starch or cellulose; powders of acrylic polymers such as poly (methyl methacrylate), polyamides, polyolefins (including polyethylene); dried seaweed powders such as Corallina officinalis;
- les charges inorganiques telles que la silice, les argiles, la perlite, le talc, le mica, le nitrure de bore, l'hydroxyapatite, le verre et les céramiques ;  - inorganic fillers such as silica, clays, perlite, talc, mica, boron nitride, hydroxyapatite, glass and ceramics;
- et leurs mélanges.  - and their mixtures.
On peut également utiliser des poudres composites constituées d'au moins l'une des poudres ci-dessus enrobée d'au moins une autre de ces poudres, les poudres composites obtenues se présentant par exemple sous forme de particules coeur-écorce. It is also possible to use composite powders consisting of at least one of the above powders coated with at least one other of these powders, the composite powders obtained being for example in the form of core-shell particles.
Les charges organiques et en particulier les amidons natifs, les amidons modifiés et leurs mélanges sont particulièrement préférés pour une utilisation dans la présente invention. Les amidons sont de préférence choisis parmi l’amidon de maïs, de riz, de tapioca ou de blé, modifiés ou non. Des exemples d'amidons modifiés sont les amidons éventuellement pré-gélatinisés et/ou oxydés, qui sont estérifïés par un anhydride alkénylsuccinique, notamment par l'anhydride octénylsuccinique ou dodécylsuccinique, éventuellement en présence de chlorure de calcium, ainsi que les amidons éthérifïés, notamment hydroxypropylés ou carboxyméthylés, et les amidons cationiques, notamment quatemisés. On peut également citer l’amidon réticulé par le trimétaphosphate de sodium. Organic fillers and in particular native starches, modified starches and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred for use in the present invention. The starches are preferably chosen from corn, rice, tapioca or wheat starch, modified or not. Examples of modified starches are starches which are optionally pre-gelatinized and / or oxidized, which are esterified with an alkenylsuccinic anhydride, in particular with octenylsuccinic anhydride or dodecylsuccinic, optionally in the presence of calcium chloride, as well as etherified starches, in particular hydroxypropylated or carboxymethylated, and cationic starches, in particular quaternized. Mention may also be made of starch crosslinked by sodium trimetaphosphate.
Pour obtenir une composition stable présentant de bonnes propriétés cosmétiques, la composition selon l’invention renferme une combinaison de certains structurants de phase grasse. To obtain a stable composition having good cosmetic properties, the composition according to the invention contains a combination of certain fatty phase structuring agents.
Par "structurant de phase grasse”, on entend un composé capable d'épaissir les huiles contenues dans la composition, choisi notamment parmi les cires, les gélifiants de phase grasse et les corps gras pâteux, ainsi que leurs mélanges. By "fatty phase structuring" is meant a compound capable of thickening the oils contained in the composition, chosen in particular from waxes, fatty phase gelling agents and pasty fatty substances, as well as their mixtures.
Le terme "cire” désigne, dans le contexte de cette description, un corps gras solide à 25°C, à changement d'état solide / liquide réversible, ayant un point de fusion généralement compris entre 30 et 160°C, de préférence entre 50 et 90°C, tel que mesuré par DSC. Des exemples de cires sont en particulier les cires d'origine animale ou végétale, telles que les cires d’abeille, d’insecte de Chine, de candelilla, de camauba ou d'acacia ; les huiles végétales hydrogénées et estérifïées par un alcool gras en Cio- Ci8, notamment les huiles de colza, de soja, de tournesol, de jojoba, de coprah et de ricin ; les esters d'acides gras linéaires saturés en C14-C30 et d'alcools gras linéaires saturés en C16-C36 ; les acides linéaires et saturés en C10-C30 ; les alcools linéaires et saturés en C8-C30 ; et leurs mélanges. The term “wax” designates, in the context of this description, a fatty substance solid at 25 ° C., with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point generally between 30 and 160 ° C, preferably between 50 and 90 ° C, as measured by DSC. Examples of waxes are in particular waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, Chinese insect, candelilla, camauba or acacia; vegetable oils hydrogenated and esterified with a C 8 -C 18 fatty alcohol, in particular rapeseed, soybean, sunflower, jojoba, copra and castor oil; esters of C14-C30 saturated linear fatty acids and C16-C36 saturated linear fatty alcohols; linear and saturated C10-C30 acids; linear and saturated C8-C30 alcohols; and their mixtures.
Les cires peuvent représenter de 1 à 10% en poids, et de préférence de 2 à 8% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. The waxes can represent from 1 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Par "gélifiants de phase grasse", il est fait référence aux composés modifiant la rhéologie de la phase grasse par formation d'un réseau tridimensionnel. Les composés de ce type utilisés selon l'invention sont les argiles (en particulier les bentonites et les hectorites) modifiées hydrophobes, notamment par du chlorure de di-stéaryl di-méthyl ammonium ; les silices pyrogénées modifiées hydrophobes ; le palmitate et le myristate de dextrine ; les mélanges de glycérides d'acides gras (de préférence linéaires et saturés) en C16-C26 tels que le composé Nomcort® HKG ou les triesters d'acides gras linéaires et saturés en C8-C30, éventuellement hydroxylés, et de mono- ou polyglycérol, tels que le trihydroxystéarate de glycérol ; les dérivés de cellulose ; et leurs mélanges. By "fatty phase gelling agents", reference is made to the compounds modifying the rheology of the fatty phase by formation of a three-dimensional network. The compounds of this type used according to the invention are hydrophobic modified clays (in particular bentonites and hectorites), in particular with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride; hydrophobic modified fumed silicas; dextrin palmitate and myristate; mixtures of glycerides of fatty acids (preferably saturated and linear) C16-C26 such as Nomcort ® HKG compound or triesters of saturated linear fatty acids and C8-C30, optionally hydroxylated, and mono- or polyglycerol , such as glycerol trihydroxystearate; cellulose derivatives; and their mixtures.
Le gélifiant de phase grasse comprend avantageusement au moins un triester de glycérol et d'acide hydroxy stéarique, de préférence le triester d'acide 12- hydroxystéarique et de glycérol, identifié par le nom INCI "TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN" et qui est notamment disponible dans le commerce auprès de la société Elementis Specialties sous la dénomination commerciale Thixcin® R. D'autres gélifiants de phase grasse peuvent en variante ou en plus être inclus dans la composition, choisis par exemple parmi ceux listés ci-dessus. The fatty phase gelling agent advantageously comprises at least one triester of glycerol and hydroxy stearic acid, preferably the triester of 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, identified by the INCI name "TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN" and which is in particular commercially available. from the company Elementis Specialties under the tradename Thixcin ® R. other oily phase gelling agents may alternatively or additionally be included in the composition, for example selected from those listed above.
Les gélifiants de phase grasse peuvent représenter de 3 à 10% du poids de la composition. Enfin, les corps gras pâteux utilisables comme structurants de phase grasse sont définis comme des corps gras à changement d'état liquide / solide réversible, présentant à l'état solide une organisation cristalline anisotrope et comportant à une température de 23°C une fraction liquide et une fraction solide. En d’autres termes, la température de fusion commençante du corps gras pâteux peut être inférieure à 23 °C. La fraction liquide du corps gras pâteux mesurée à 23 °C peut représenter 9 à 97 % en poids du corps gras pâteux. Cette fraction liquide à 23 °C représente de préférence entre 15 et 85 %, de préférence encore entre 40 et 85 % en poids du corps gras pâteux. The fatty phase gelling agents can represent from 3 to 10% of the weight of the composition. Finally, pasty fatty substances that can be used as fatty phase structuring agents are defined as fatty substances with reversible liquid / solid state change, having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state and comprising a liquid fraction at a temperature of 23 ° C. and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty fatty substance can be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight of the pasty fatty substance.
Au sens de l'invention, la température de fusion correspond à la température du pic le plus endothermique telle que décrite dans la norme ISO 11357-3 ; 1999 et mesurée à l’aide d’un calorimètre à balayage différentiel (DSC). La fraction liquide en poids du corps gras pâteux à 23 °C est égale au rapport de l'enthalpie de fusion consommée à 23 °C pour passer de l'état solide à l'état liquide sur l'enthalpie de fusion du corps gras pâteux. Within the meaning of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999 and measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC). The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at 23 ° C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C to pass from the solid state to the liquid state over the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance .
Le corps gras pâteux peut être notamment choisi parmi : The pasty fatty substance can in particular be chosen from:
- les éthers de polyol tels que les éthers de pentaérythritol et de polyalkylène glycol, - polyol ethers such as pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers,
- les esters de polyols et plus particulièrement : (a) les esters de polyglycérol, notamment les condensais d'acide adipique et de glycérol, pour lesquels une partie des groupes hydroxyles des glycérols ont réagi avec un mélange d'acides gras tels que l'acide stéarique, l'acide caprique, l'acide stéarique, l'acide isostéarique et l'acide 12- hydroxystéarique, tels que le produit commercialisé sous la marque Softisan® 649 par la société SASOL, ou encore un ester de polyglycérol (obtenu par condensation de deux à dix, de préférence de trois ou quatre, motifs glycérol) et d'un acide gras renfermant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, tel que le polygycéryl-3 polyricinoléate, (b) les esters de pentaérythritol, (c) les esters de dimère diol et dimère diacide, le cas échéant, estérifiés sur leur(s) fonction(s) alcool(s) ou acide(s) libre(s), notamment les esters dimer dilinoléate tels que le bis-béhényl/isostéaryl/phytostéryl dimerdilinoléyle dimerdilinoléate (Plandool® G de LIPO CHEMICALS), le phytostéryl isostéaryl dimerdilinoléate (Lusplan® PI-DA, Lusplan® PHY/IS-DA de NIPPON LINE CHEMICAL), le phytostéryl/isostéryl/cétyl/stéaryl/béhényl dimerdilinoléate (Plandool® H ou Plandool® S de LIPO CHEMICALS), - le propionate d'arachidyle commercialisé sous la marque Waxenol® 801 par ALZO,polyol esters and more particularly: (a) polyglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as the product sold under the brand name Softisan ® 649 by Sasol, or a polyglycerol ester (obtained by condensation of two to ten, preferably three or four, glycerol units) and of a fatty acid containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as 3-polygyceryl polyricinoleate, (b) pentaerythritol esters, (c) the esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid, if appropriate, esterified on their alcohol (s) or free acid (s) function (s), in particular the dimer dilinoleate esters such as bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool ® G from LIPO CHEMICALS), p hytosteryl isostearyl dimerdilinoleate (Lusplan ® PI-DA, Lusplan ® PHY / IS-DA from NIPPON LINE CHEMICAL), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool ® H or Plandool ® S from LIPO CHEMICALS), - arachidyl propionate marketed under the brand Waxenol ® 801 by ALZO,
- les esters de phytostérol, - phytosterol esters,
- les huiles végétales hydrogénées et en particulier l'huile de soja hydrogénée, l'huile de coprah hydrogénée, l'huile de colza hydrogénée et les mélanges d'huiles végétales hydrogénées, en particulier l'huile de ricin hydrogénée commercialisée sous la dénomination Castorlatum® par la société VERTELLUS HOLDINGS LLC, - hydrogenated vegetable oils and in particular hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil and mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils, in particular hydrogenated castor oil marketed under the name Castorlatum ® by the company VERTELLUS HOLDINGS LLC,
- les beurres végétaux, notamment les beurres de karité, de cacao et de mangue et préférentiellement le beurre de karité,  - vegetable butters, in particular shea, cocoa and mango butters and preferably shea butter,
et leurs mélanges. and their mixtures.
On préfère que les corps gras pâteux soient choisis parmi : les beurres végétaux, les huiles végétales hydrogénées, et leurs mélanges. It is preferred that the pasty fatty substances are chosen from: vegetable butters, hydrogenated vegetable oils, and their mixtures.
Les corps gras pâteux peuvent représenter de 10 à 35% en poids, de préférence de 15 à 30% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. The pasty fatty substances can represent from 10 to 35% by weight, preferably from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Dans une forme d’exécution de l’invention, le structurant de phase grasse contient notamment, comme corps gras pâteux, au moins un ester de polyglycérol et d'un acide gras renfermant de 12 à 30 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 18 à 22 atomes de carbone, choisi par exemple parmi les acides linéaires saturés, les acides ramifiés saturés, les acides linéaires mono-insaturés et leurs mélanges, éventuellement mono- ou polyhydroxylés. Ces esters de polyglycérol peuvent être issus de la fonctionnalisation de cires végétales. Il s'agit en particulier d'un produit de transestérification et de polyglycérolyse de cires végétales renfermant des esters d'acides gras et d'alcools gras en C38-C56, tel que celui identifié par le nom INCI JOJOBA ESTERS, HELIANTHUS ANNUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX, ACACIA DECURRENS FLOWER WAX & POLYGLYCERIN-3, qui est disponible dans le commerce auprès de la société GATTEFOSSE sous la dénomination commerciale Acticire®. Ce produit peut représenter de 0,1 à 5% et de préférence de 0,5 à 3% du poids total de la composition. In one embodiment of the invention, the fatty phase structuring agent contains in particular, as pasty fatty substance, at least one ester of polyglycerol and of a fatty acid containing from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, chosen for example from saturated linear acids, saturated branched acids, monounsaturated linear acids and their mixtures, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated. These polyglycerol esters can come from the functionalization of vegetable waxes. It is in particular a product of transesterification and polyglycerolysis of vegetable waxes containing esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols in C38-C56, such as that identified by the name INCI JOJOBA ESTERS, HELIANTHUS ANNUS (SUNFLOWER ) SEED WAX, ACACIA DECURRENS FLOWER WAX & POLYGLYCERIN-3, which is commercially available from GATTEFOSSE under the trade name Acticire ® . This product can represent from 0.1 to 5% and preferably from 0.5 to 3% of the total weight of the composition.
L’ajout de ce constituant est particulièrement utile dans le cas où l’on souhaite incorporer à la composition selon l’invention au moins un polyol, qui peut par exemple être choisi parmi les alcane diols et les alcanes triols, tels que la glycérine, le propylène glycol (propane- 1,2-diol), le dipropylène glycol, le propane-l,3-diol, le butane-1,2- diol, le butane- 1,4-diol, le butane-2,3-diol, le butane-l,3-diol, le pentane-l,5-diol, le pentane- 1,2-diol, l’hexane-l,6-diol, l’octane-l,8-diol, le 2-méthylpentane-2,4-diol, le méthylpropanediol, l’isopentyldiol ou un mélange de ceux-ci. On préfère utiliser la glycérine ou le propylène glycol, avantageusement la glycérine. Le polyol peut représenter de 1 à 15% et de préférence de 3 à 10% du poids total de la composition. The addition of this constituent is particularly useful in the case where it is desired to incorporate into the composition according to the invention at least one polyol, which can for example be chosen from alkane diols and alkane triols, such as glycerin, propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), dipropylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, butane-1,2-diol , butane-1,4-diol, butane-2,3-diol, butane-1,3-diol, pentane-1,5-diol, pentane-1,2-diol, hexane- 1,6-diol, octane-1,8-diol, 2-methylpentane-2,4-diol, methylpropanediol, isopentyldiol or a mixture thereof. It is preferred to use glycerin or propylene glycol, advantageously glycerin. The polyol can represent from 1 to 15% and preferably from 3 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.
Une caractéristique importante de la présente invention, qui garantit la stabilité de la composition, est constituée par le rapport entre la quantité totale de poudres (a) et de corps gras pâteux (c)(ii) et la quantité d'huile(s) (b) qui est compris entre 1,6 et 2,6, par exemple entre 1,7 et 2,5 et préférentiellement entre 1,8 et 2,0. Il a en effet été observé qu'un ratio [(a) + (c)(ii)]/(b) inférieur à 1,6 entraînait des problèmes de stabilité, notamment un relargage d’huile en surface de la composition. En outre, un ratio supérieur à 2,6 conduit à une composition trop dure, épaisse et/ou qui s'étale difficilement sur la peau. An important characteristic of the present invention, which guarantees the stability of the composition, is constituted by the ratio between the total amount of powders (a) and pasty fatty substances (c) (ii) and the amount of oil (s) (b) which is between 1.6 and 2.6, for example between 1.7 and 2.5 and preferably between 1.8 and 2.0. It has in fact been observed that a ratio [(a) + (c) (ii)] / (b) of less than 1.6 gives rise to stability problems, in particular the release of oil at the surface of the composition. In addition, a ratio greater than 2.6 leads to a composition which is too hard, thick and / or which spreads with difficulty on the skin.
La composition selon l'invention peut en outre comprendre des additifs choisis notamment parmi des filtres UV, des parfums, des anti-oxydants tels que le tocophérol, des colorants, des conservateurs et leurs mélanges. The composition according to the invention may also comprise additives chosen in particular from UV filters, perfumes, antioxidants such as tocopherol, dyes, preservatives and their mixtures.
Les filtres UV utilisables selon l'invention comprennent les filtres UV organiques ou inorganiques actifs dans l'UVA et/ou l'UVB. UV filters which can be used according to the invention include organic or inorganic UV filters active in UVA and / or UVB.
Les filtres organiques peuvent notamment être choisis parmi : les benzophénones, telles que celle identifiée par le nom INCI DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE (Uvinul® A Plus de BASF) et la BENZOPHENONE-3 ; les benzotriazoles, tels que celui identifié par le nom INCI METHYLENE BIS- BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (Tinosorb® M de BASF) ; les triazines telles que celles identifiées par les noms INCI ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE (Uvinul® T 150 de BASF) et BIS ETH YLHEXYLOX YPHEN OL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE (Tinosorb® S de BASF) ; les benzimidazoles, tels que celui identifié par le nom INCI PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID (Eusolex® 232 de MERCK) ; les hydroxybenzoates, tels que l'ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE (Eusolex® OS de MERCK) et GHOMO S AL ATE (Eusolex® HMS de MERCK) ; le BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE (Eusolex® 9020 de MERCK) ; l'ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE (Uvinul®MC 80 de BASF) ; les cyanoacrylates, tels que l'OCTOCRYLENE (Eusolex® OCR de MERCK) ; et leurs mélanges. The organic screening agents may be chosen especially from: benzophenones such as that identified by the INCI name diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl HEXYL BENZOATE (Uvinul ® A Plus from BASF) and benzophenone-3; benzotriazoles, such as that identified by the name INCI METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (Tinosorb ® M from BASF); triazines such as those identified by the INCI names Ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul ® T 150 from BASF) and BIS ETH YLHEXYLOX YPHEN OL methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S ® BASF); benzimidazoles, such as that identified by the name INCI PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID (Eusolex ® 232 from MERCK); hydroxybenzoates, such as ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE (Eusolex ® OS from MERCK) and GHOMO S AL ATE (Eusolex ® HMS from MERCK); BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE (Eusolex ® 9020 from MERCK); ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE (Uvinul ® MC 80 from BASF); cyanoacrylates, such as OCTOCRYLENE (Eusolex ® OCR from MERCK); and their mixtures.
Les filtres UV inorganiques sont des pigments d'oxyde métallique enrobés ou non, comme par exemple des pigments d’oxyde de titane (amorphe ou cristallisé sous forme rutile et/ou anatase), de fer, de zinc, de zirconium ou de cérium. Préférentiellement, les filtres UV inorganiques utilisables selon l'invention sont des particules d'oxyde métallique ayant une taille moyenne de particule élémentaire inférieure ou égale à 0,5 pm, plus préférentiellement comprise entre 0,05 et 0,5 pm, et encore plus préférentiellement comprise entre 0,010 et 0,1 pm, et encore plus particulièrement entre 0,015 et 0,050 pm. Inorganic UV filters are coated or uncoated metallic oxide pigments, such as, for example, titanium oxide pigments (amorphous or crystallized in rutile form and / or anatase), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium. Preferably, the inorganic UV filters which can be used according to the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 μm, more preferably between 0.05 and 0.5 μm, and even more preferably between 0.010 and 0.1 pm, and even more particularly between 0.015 and 0.050 pm.
Ces pigments peuvent être enrobés ou non enrobés. Les pigments enrobés sont des pigments qui ont subi un ou plusieurs traitements de surface de nature chimique, électronique, mécanochimique et/ou mécanique avec des composés tels que des aminoacides, de la cire d'abeille, des acides gras, des alcools gras, des tensio-actifs anioniques, des lécithines, des sels de sodium, potassium, zinc, fer ou aluminium d'acides gras, des alcoxydes métalliques (de titane ou d'aluminium), du polyéthylène, des silicones, des protéines (collagène, élastine), des alcanolamines, des oxydes de silicium, des oxydes métalliques ou de l'hexamétaphosphate de sodium. These pigments can be coated or uncoated. The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin) , alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
Parmi les colorants utilisables dans la composition selon l’invention, on peut notamment citer les colorants azoïques et les triarylméthanes, les composés de la famille des phtalo et les colorants végétaux, parmi lesquels on peut en particulier citer :Among the dyes which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of azo dyes and triarylmethanes, compounds of the phthalo family and plant dyes, among which there may be mentioned in particular:
- les colorants anthraquinoniques qui peuvent notamment être extraits de la garance (Rubia tinctorum) ; - anthraquinone dyes which can in particular be extracted from madder (Rubia tinctorum);
- les colorants indigoïques qui peuvent notamment être extraits des plantes suivantes : la persicaire ( Persicaria tinctoria ou Polygonum tinctorium), l’indigotier ( Indigofera tinctoria) , Y Indigofera suffruticosa, Y Indigofera arrecta, le robinier ( Lonchocarpus cyanescens), la giroflée ( Cheiranthus fenestralis), le pastel ; - the indigo dyes which can in particular be extracted from the following plants: the persicaria (Persicaria tinctoria or Polygonum tinctorium), the indigo tree (Indigofera tinctoria), Y Indigofera suffruticosa, Y Indigofera arrecta, locust (Lonchocarpus cyanescens), wallflower (Cheiranthus fenestralis), pastel;
- les chlorines dont les Chlorophylles a, b c et d ;  - chlorines including Chlorophylls a, b c and d;
- les polyméthines ;  - polymethines;
- les flavonoïdes, y compris les flavanols et les anthocyanidols qui peuvent être issus de la gaude (Réséda luteola), par exemple ;  - flavonoids, including flavanols and anthocyanidols which may be derived from saplings (Réséda luteola), for example;
- les colorants jaunes non flavonoïdes comme le curcuma ;  - non-flavonoid yellow dyes such as turmeric;
- les caroténoïdes, dont les carotènes et les xanthophylles ; et  - carotenoids, including carotenes and xanthophylls; and
- leurs mélanges  - their mixtures
On préfère que la composition selon l'invention ne renferme pas de polymère synthétique. Avantageusement, cette composition renferme une quantité d'au moins 90% en poids d’ingrédients d’origine végétale, telle que déterminée selon la norme ASTM D7026. It is preferred that the composition according to the invention does not contain a synthetic polymer. Advantageously, this composition contains an amount of at least 90% by weight of ingredients of plant origin, as determined according to standard ASTM D7026.
La composition selon l’invention se présente sous forme de crème ou de baume. Il peut s'agir d'une composition de soin de la peau, notamment d'une composition anti-âge ou hydratante, d'une base de maquillage ou d'une composition de maquillage, telle qu'un fond de teint, un blush ou un fard à paupières. The composition according to the invention is in the form of a cream or balm. It may be a skin care composition, in particular an anti-aging or moisturizing composition, a makeup base or a makeup composition, such as a foundation, a blush. or an eyeshadow.
Elle est plus particulièrement destinée à masquer les imperfections cutanées, telles que les rides, les pores, et/ou la peau grasse et/ou à masquer ou corriger les imperfections du teint, telles que le teint terne, le teint jaune, les cernes, les taches de sénescence et les rougeurs. It is more particularly intended for masking skin imperfections, such as wrinkles, pores, and / or oily skin and / or for masking or correcting skin imperfections, such as dull complexion, yellow complexion, dark circles, age spots and redness.
La composition selon l’invention est généralement destinée à être appliquée sur le visage, le cou et/ou le décolleté. En variante, elle peut être appliquée sur l'ensemble du corps, notamment sur le visage, le cou, le décolleté, le buste, les mains, les bras, les pieds, les jambes et/ou le ventre. Cette composition peut être appliquée une ou plusieurs fois par jour, par exemple matin et/ou soir. EXEMPLES The composition according to the invention is generally intended to be applied to the face, the neck and / or the décolleté. As a variant, it can be applied to the whole body, in particular to the face, the neck, the décolleté, the bust, the hands, the arms, the feet, the legs and / or the belly. This composition can be applied one or more times a day, for example morning and / or evening. EXAMPLES
L’invention sera mieux comprise à la lumière des exemples suivants, qui sont donnés à titre purement illustratif et n’ont pas pour but de limiter la portée de l’invention, définie par les revendications annexées. The invention will be better understood in the light of the following examples, which are given purely by way of illustration and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention, defined by the appended claims.
Exemple 1 : Baume apte à se transformer en poudre Example 1: Balm capable of transforming into powder
On a préparé un baume par mélange des ingrédients ci-après, et dans les proportions pondérales indiquées ci-dessous. A balm was prepared by mixing the ingredients below, and in the weight proportions indicated below.
Phase A Phase A
Corps gras pâteux* 21,00 %  Pasty fatty substance * 21.00%
Cire d'abeille 2,00 %  Beeswax 2.00%
Huiles 30,00 % Oils 30.00%
Glycérine 6,00%  Glycerin 6.00%
Anti-oxydant qs  Anti-oxidant qs
Parfum qs  Perfume qs
Nacre qs  Mother of pearl
Phase B Phase B
TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN 5,00 %  TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN 5.00%
Phase C  Phase C
Poudres 35,00 %  Powders 35.00%
Total : 100,00 %  Total: 100.00%
*dont Acticire® de GATTEFOSSE, renfermant des esters d’acides gras en C12-C30 de polyglycérol-3. * including Acticire ® from GATTEFOSSE, containing fatty acid esters of C12-C30 of polyglycerol-3.
Ce baume a été préparé par mélange et chauffage des constituants de la phase A à 75°C, puis refroidissement entre 60 et 65°C suivi de l'introduction de la phase B. Le mélange a été turbiné dans un dispositif de type rotor-stator pendant 20 minutes, puis refroidi en-dessous de 50°C avant d'y ajouter les autres constituants un par un, sous agitation à l'aide d'une turbine défloculeuse. Le produit obtenu a ensuite été conditionné dans des pots entre 42 et 45°C. Exemple 2 : Test de stabilité This balm was prepared by mixing and heating the constituents of phase A to 75 ° C, then cooling between 60 and 65 ° C followed by the introduction of phase B. The mixture was turbinated in a rotor-type device. stator for 20 minutes, then cooled below 50 ° C before adding the other constituents one by one, with stirring using a deflocculating turbine. The product obtained was then packaged in pots between 42 and 45 ° C. Example 2: Stability test
On a préparé huit compositions A à H selon l'invention et deux compositions I et J comparatives de manière similaire à l'Exemple 1, en faisant varier uniquement la nature des huiles, ainsi que les quantités d’huile, de corps gras pâteux et de poudres et, partant, le ratio (R) de la quantité totale de poudres et de pâteux à la quantité totale d’huile. Eight compositions A to H according to the invention were prepared and two comparative compositions I and J in a similar manner to Example 1, by varying only the nature of the oils, as well as the amounts of oil, of pasty fatty substances and of powders and hence the ratio (R) of the total amount of powders and pastes to the total amount of oil.
On a ensuite évalué l’aspect de ces compositions après stockage à 50°C pendant un mois.  The appearance of these compositions was then evaluated after storage at 50 ° C for one month.
Les résultats sont présentés dans le tableau ci-après. The results are presented in the table below.
Il ressort de ce test que les compositions A à H selon l’invention sont stables, c'est-à- dire qu'elles présentent un aspect homogène, après plusieurs semaines de stockage à 50°C, contrairement aux compositions comparatives I et J qui présentent des phénomènes d’exsudation après une semaine seulement de conservation à cette température. It emerges from this test that the compositions A to H according to the invention are stable, that is to say that they have a homogeneous appearance, after several weeks of storage at 50 ° C., unlike the comparative compositions I and J which show phenomena of exudation after only one week of storage at this temperature.
Exemple 3 : Tests sensoriels Une composition selon l’invention a été évaluée, en cabine d’analyse sensorielle, par un panel de 20 femmes de 35 ans d’âge moyen, ayant majoritairement la peau du visage normale à sèche. Les volontaires ont appliqué sur l'ensemble du visage la quantité souhaitée de produit, avant de répondre à un questionnaire juste après application. 75% des panélistes ont considéré que la composition était agréable sur le plan de sa texture (riche mais non grasse), de sa facilité d'application et de son rendu confortable, la peau apparaissant douce mais ni brillante, ni collante.
Figure imgf000018_0001
Example 3: Sensory tests A composition according to the invention was evaluated, in a sensory analysis booth, by a panel of 20 women of 35 years of middle age, mainly having normal to dry facial skin. The volunteers applied the desired quantity of product to the entire face, before responding to a questionnaire just after application. 75% of the panelists considered that the composition was pleasant in terms of its texture (rich but not oily), its ease of application and its comfortable rendering, the skin appearing soft but neither shiny nor sticky.
Figure imgf000018_0001

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Composition cosmétique anhydre renfermant : 1. Anhydrous cosmetic composition containing:
(a) de 20 à 50% en poids d'au moins une poudre choisie parmi les poudres organiques, les poudres inorganiques et leurs mélanges,  (a) from 20 to 50% by weight of at least one powder chosen from organic powders, inorganic powders and their mixtures,
(b) de 20 à 40% en poids d'au moins une huile, et  (b) from 20 to 40% by weight of at least one oil, and
(c) au moins un structurant de phase grasse comprenant (i) au moins un gélifiant de phase grasse, choisi parmi : les argiles modifiées hydrophobes, les silices pyrogénées modifiées hydrophobes, le palmitate ou le myristate de dextrine, les mélanges de glycérides d'acides gras en C16-C26, les triesters d'acides gras linéaires et saturés en CV C30, éventuellement hydroxylés, et de mono- ou polyglycérol, les dérivés de cellulose et leurs mélanges, et (ii) au moins un corps gras pâteux, qui est un corps gras à changement d'état liquide / solide réversible, présentant à l'état solide une organisation cristalline anisotrope et comportant à une température de 23°C une fraction liquide et une fraction solide,  (c) at least one fatty phase structuring agent comprising (i) at least one fatty phase gelling agent, chosen from: hydrophobic modified clays, hydrophobic modified pyrogenic silicas, dextrin palmitate or myristate, mixtures of glycerides of fatty acids C16-C26, the triesters of linear fatty acids saturated in CV C30, optionally hydroxylated, and of mono- or polyglycerol, cellulose derivatives and their mixtures, and (ii) at least one pasty fatty substance, which is a fatty substance with reversible liquid / solid state change, having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction,
les pourcentages ci-dessus étant exprimés par rapport au poids total de la composition, le rapport en poids entre la quantité totale de poudres (a) et de corps gras pâteux (c)(ii) et la quantité d’huile (b) étant compris entre 1,6 et 2,6 et la composition étant exempte de sel de bicarbonate, et ne renfermant pas de composé siliconé. the above percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of the composition, the weight ratio between the total amount of powders (a) and pasty fatty substances (c) (ii) and the amount of oil (b) being between 1.6 and 2.6 and the composition being free of bicarbonate salt, and not containing a silicone compound.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que les huiles représentent de 25 à 30% du poids total de la composition. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the oils represent from 25 to 30% of the total weight of the composition.
3. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que les huiles sont choisies parmi : les mono- et polyesters d'acides linéaires saturés en C2-C10 (de préférence en CY-C ) et de mono-alcools linéaires saturés en Cio-Cis (de préférence C10-C14), les triglycérides d'acides gras en C6-C12, les dialkyléthers et leurs mélanges. 3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the oils are chosen from: mono- and polyesters of linear acids saturated in C2-C10 (preferably in CY-C) and mono-alcohols saturated linear Cio-Cis (preferably C10-C14), triglycerides of fatty acids C6-C12, dialkyl ethers and mixtures thereof.
4. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisée en ce que les poudres représentent de 30 à 45% du poids total de la composition. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the powders represent from 30 to 45% of the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisée en ce que les poudres sont choisies parmi les charges, les pigments organiques, les pigments minéraux, les nacres et paillettes et leurs mélanges. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the powders are chosen from fillers, organic pigments, mineral pigments, nacres and flakes and their mixtures.
6. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisée en ce que les corps gras pâteux sont choisis parmi : les beurres végétaux, les huiles végétales hydrogénées, et leurs mélanges. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the pasty fatty substances are chosen from: vegetable butters, hydrogenated vegetable oils, and their mixtures.
7. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisée en ce que les corps gras pâteux représentent de 10 à 35% en poids, de préférence de 15 à 30% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the pasty fatty substances represent from 10 to 35% by weight, preferably from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisée en ce que le rapport en poids entre la quantité totale de poudres (a) et de corps gras pâteux (c)(ii) et la quantité d'huile (b) est compris entre 1,7 et 2,5, de préférence entre 1,8 et 2,0. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total amount of powders (a) and pasty fatty substances (c) (ii) and the amount of oil (b ) is between 1.7 and 2.5, preferably between 1.8 and 2.0.
9. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisée en ce que le gélifiant de phase grasse est un triester de glycérol et d'acide hydroxystéarique. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the fatty phase gelling agent is a triester of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid.
10. Utilisation cosmétique de la composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 9 pour le soin et/ou le maquillage de la peau, notamment pour masquer les imperfections cutanées, telles que les rides, les pores, et/ou la peau grasse et/ou pour masquer ou corriger les imperfections du teint, telles que le teint terne, le teint jaune, les cernes, les taches de sénescence et les rougeurs. 10. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for the care and / or makeup of the skin, in particular for masking skin imperfections, such as wrinkles, pores, and / or oily skin. and / or to mask or correct imperfections of the complexion, such as dull complexion, yellow complexion, dark circles, age spots and redness.
11. Utilisation cosmétique de la composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 9 comme composition de soin de la peau ou comme base de maquillage. 11. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 as a skin care composition or as a make-up base.
12. Procédé cosmétique de soin et/ou de maquillage de la peau, notamment pour masquer les imperfections cutanées, telles que les rides, les pores, et/ou la peau grasse, et/ou pour masquer ou corriger les imperfections du teint, telles que le teint terne, le teint jaune, les cernes, les taches de sénescence et les rougeurs, comprenant l'application sur la peau de la composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 9. 12. Cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up the skin, in particular for masking skin imperfections, such as wrinkles, pores, and / or oily skin, and / or for masking or correcting skin imperfections, such that dull complexion, yellow complexion, dark circles, age spots and redness, including applying to the skin the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9.
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