CN113272023A - Cosmetic composition capable of being changed into powder - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition capable of being changed into powder Download PDFInfo
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- CN113272023A CN113272023A CN201980074449.3A CN201980074449A CN113272023A CN 113272023 A CN113272023 A CN 113272023A CN 201980074449 A CN201980074449 A CN 201980074449A CN 113272023 A CN113272023 A CN 113272023A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
- A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
- A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
- A61K2800/34—Free of silicones
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Abstract
The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition containing 20-50% by weight of at least one powder, 20-40% by weight of at least one oil and at least one fatty phase structuring agent comprising (i) at least one fatty phase gelling agent and (ii) at least one pasty fatty substance, the above percentages being calculated with respect to the total weight of the composition, the weight ratio between the total amount of powder and pasty fatty substance and the amount of oil being between 1.6 and 2.6, and the composition being free of bicarbonate salts or any silicone compound. Such compositions are useful for skin care and/or make-up, in particular for masking skin imperfections such as wrinkles, pores and/or oily skin, and/or for masking or correcting skin imperfections such as dark or yellowish skin tone, dark under-eye circles, age spots and erythema.
Description
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of balm (balm) comprising defined amounts of powders, pasty fats and oils and a specific fatty phase gelling agent, said composition being capable of becoming a powder upon application to the skin. The invention also relates to the use of such a composition for skin care and/or make-up, in particular for masking skin imperfections such as wrinkles, pores, dark circles and/or oily skin.
Background
In the last few years, commonly used for skin makeup, cosmetic compositions in the form of anhydrous balms, which can be turned into powder by gentle massaging on the skin, have appeared on the market. These compositions have the advantage of containing a large amount of powder suitable for masking skin imperfections, tightening pores, reducing skin shine and/or imparting a velvety appearance to the skin, while being easily dosed and being pleasant to apply, including to the touch, due to their molten texture. In addition, these compositions are more suitable for dry or dehydrated skin than powder textures. Powders are also less likely to migrate into fine lines and wrinkles when present in a composition in the form of a balm.
These compositions generally contain silicone compounds, in particular volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, which are accompanied by silicone elastomers and/or silicone resins or other synthetic compounds of petrochemical origin, for example linear and branched paraffins accompanied by styrene copolymers. The use of silicones in cosmetics is facing increasing challenges, on the one hand due to the bioaccumulation of silicones, particularly in aquatic systems, and on the other hand due to the suspected endocrine disrupting effect of certain silicones. In addition, since petroleum resources are expected to be depleted, efforts are being made to replace petrochemical feedstocks.
It would therefore be desirable to provide a balm free of these compounds.
It is also a challenge to stabilize compositions of this type, since they are rich in oils, which tend to be released and thus form an oil film on the surface of the composition. An increase in the content of powdery and pasty fats can of course limit this phenomenon, but this improvement is obtained at the expense of the organoleptic properties of the product, which becomes very hard and stagnated and does not gradually dissipate after application.
In document KR 20100015025, a solution to overcome the stability problems of these oily powder-rich compositions is proposed. This document discloses a semi-solid coloured cosmetic composition suitable for conversion to powder upon contact with the skin, comprising a combination of powders dispersed in an oily phase constituting at least 25% by weight of the composition, consisting of trihydroxystearin (a triester of hydroxystearic acid and glycerol), a silicone oil and a hydrocarbon oil. The silicone oil is a volatile silicone and comprises at least 10% by weight of the composition.
Therefore, the solution provided in this document does not avoid the use of silicone compounds. However, consumers are increasingly concerned about the naturalness of the ingredients contained in the cosmetics they use. It is therefore desirable to provide a cosmetic composition in the form of a balm capable of being converted into a powder, which is mainly or even entirely composed of ingredients of natural origin.
Cosmetic compositions which are free of silicone compounds and which are suitable for conversion to powders after application to the skin have been described in document US 2017/0143616. These compositions each contain 20 to 50% of a specific powder, 3 to 15% of a lipophilic gelling agent (which may be a triester of glycerol with 12-hydroxystearic acid) and at least 20% of an oil, and optionally a pasty fat. However, the compositions exemplified in this document do not contain pasty fats, and the powder to oil weight ratio is always less than 1.2, and usually less than 1.0.
Disclosure of Invention
In the applicant's opinion, the above needs can be met by formulating the powders to be applied to the skin in a given weight ratio in a composition containing a specific mixture of fats.
The subject of the present invention is therefore an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising:
(a)20 to 50% by weight of at least one powder selected from the group consisting of organic powders, inorganic powders and mixtures thereof,
(b)20 to 40% by weight of at least one oil, and
(c) at least one fatty phase structuring agent comprising (i) at least one fatty phase gelling agent selected from hydrophobically modified clays, hydrophobically modified fumed silicas, dextrin palmitate or myristate, C16-C26Mixture of fatty acid glycerides, linear saturated C optionally hydroxylated8-C30Triesters of fatty acids with mono-or polyglycerols, cellulose derivatives and mixtures thereof, and (ii) at least one pasty fat which is a fat with a reversible liquid/solid change, has an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state and comprises a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 23 ℃,
the above percentages being calculated with respect to the total weight of the composition,
the weight ratio between the total amount of the powder (a) and pasty fat (c) (ii) and the amount of the oil (b) is between 1.6 and 2.6, and the composition is free of bicarbonate and of silicone compounds.
Another subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of such a composition for skin care and/or make-up, in particular for masking skin imperfections such as wrinkles, pores and/or oily skin, and/or for correcting skin imperfections such as dullness, yellowing, dark circles, age spots and redness.
Another subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of the above composition as a skin care composition or as a foundation.
Finally, the present invention relates to a skin care and/or make-up cosmetic process, in particular for masking skin imperfections such as wrinkles, pores and/or oily skin and/or correcting skin color imperfections such as dullness, yellowing, dark circles under the eyes, age spots and redness, said process comprising the application to the skin of the above-mentioned composition.
The composition according to the invention spreads easily on the skin and gives the skin a velvety soft, powdery surface finish after application without any discomfort, in particular a dry feel. It is stable over a period of time and/or at certain temperatures, and can be stored in particular at 50 ℃ for at least four weeks, corresponding to approximately thirty-six months at room temperature, without significant changes in appearance, in particular without any exudation, precipitation of powder or phase separation being observed.
Detailed Description
The composition according to the invention is an anhydrous composition, which means that it contains less than 5% by weight of water, advantageously less than 3% by weight of water or even less than 1% by weight of water. In any case, the water contained in the composition is preferably provided solely by its constituent ingredients.
In another aspect, the composition comprises one or more oils. In the sense of the present invention, "oil" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (105Pa), which, when introduced into water in an amount of at least 1% by weight at 25 ℃, is completely insoluble in water or soluble to an extent of less than 10% by weight, based on the weight of the oil introduced into the water. The oil may be volatile or non-volatile. In this specification, "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the skin for at least 1 hour in the absence of friction at 25 ℃ and atmospheric pressure, and/or has a vapour pressure below 0.001mmHg under these conditions. The oil contained in the composition according to the invention may or may not be volatile; they are advantageously non-volatile. Alternatively, they may be a mixture of non-volatile oils (primary by weight) and volatile oils (secondary by weight). Examples of volatile oils are in particular straight-chain C11To C14Alkanes and branches C12-C16An alkane. In addition, the fixed oil is preferably selected fromHydrocarbon oils, i.e. they contain only carbon, hydrogen and optionally oxygen atoms.
Examples of non-volatile oils include:
-esters of acids with monohydric alcohols selected from: saturated straight chain C2-C10(preferably C)6-C10) Acids and saturated straight-chain C10-C18(preferably C)10-C14) Monoesters and polyesters of monohydric alcohols, saturated straight-chain C10-C20Acids with branched or unsaturated C3-C20(preferably C)3-C10) Monoesters and polyesters of monohydric alcohols, branched or unsaturated C5-C20Acids with branched or unsaturated C5-C20Monoesters and polyesters of monohydric alcohols, branched or unsaturated C5-C20Acids with straight chains C2-C4Monoesters and polyesters of monohydric alcohols;
-C6-C12triglycerides of fatty acids, such as triglycerides of caprylic and capric acids and triglycerides;
-branched and/or unsaturated C10-C20Fatty acids (e.g., linoleic acid, lauric acid, and myristic acid);
-branched and/or unsaturated C10-C20Fatty alcohols (e.g., octyl dodecanol and oleyl alcohol);
hydrocarbons such as plant squalane, for example extracted from olive oil;
dialkyl carbonates, such as dioctyl carbonate and di (ethylhexyl) carbonate;
dialkyl ethers such as dioctyl ether; and
-mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of vegetable oils containing one or more of the above-mentioned constituents.
As esters of acids with monohydric alcohols, mention may be made in particular of monoesters, such as mixtures of cocoyl decanoate and cocoyl octanoate, ethyl macadamia nut oleate, ethyl shea butter, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, hexyl pivalate, ethylhexyl pivalate, isodecyl pivalate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, ketostearyl pelargonate, propylheptyl octanoate and mixtures thereof. Other esters which may be used are diesters of acids with monohydric alcohols, such as diisopropyl adipate, di (ethylhexyl) adipate, diisopropyl sebacate and diisoamyl sebacate. It is preferred to use a mixture of esters of acids of vegetable origin with monohydric alcohols, for example coco decanoate and coco octanoate.
Examples of vegetable oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, argan oil, hibiscus oil, coriander oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, almond oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, pumpkin seed oil, sesame oil, pumpkin oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, lavender oil, borage oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil, rosehips or camellia oil.
Preferred oils for use in the present invention are saturated straight chain C2-C10(preferably C)6-C10) Acids and saturated straight-chain C10-C18(preferably C)10-C14) Monoesters and polyesters of monohydric alcohols, C6-C12Triglycerides, dialkyl ethers of fatty acids and mixtures thereof.
The oil may represent from 20% to 40%, preferably from 25% to 30% by weight of the total composition.
Preferably, however, the saturated straight chain C, if present2-C10Mono-and polybasic acid esters and saturated straight chain C10-C18The total amount of monoalcohols is less than 30% of the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 25% of the total weight of the composition.
As indicated above, the composition according to the invention contains from 20 to 50% by weight, in particular from 30 to 45% by weight, of one or more powders, based on the total weight of the composition.
The powders considered may be any material in powder form, whatever its function, more particularly chosen from fillers, pigments, pearlescent materials and flakes and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the filler comprises at least 50% by weight of the powder, more preferably from 60% to 100% or even from 80% to 100% by weight of the powder. "fillers" is understood to mean colorless or white, mineral or organic particles of any shape, insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is made. These fillers may perform a variety of different functions in the composition, in particular may remove skin oil and/or blur skin imperfections (pores, dark circles, wrinkles, etc.). They may also modify the texture, especially the feel, of the composition. By "pigment" is meant any form of mineral or organic colored particles that are insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is made and intended to color the skin after application of the composition. Among the mineral pigments which may be mentioned are metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, and also iron, titanium or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of D & C pigments, varnishes and vegetable chars based on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium. Among the pearlescent materials and flakes, mention may be made of various mineral particles, in particular mineral particles based on natural or synthetic mica (fluorophlogopite), borosilicate, silica or alumina, covered with one or more layers of metal oxides, in particular oxides of titanium, iron, chromium and/or bismuth oxychloride.
Preferably at least one filler in porous or hollow form, preferably porous microparticles, is used. These particles are in principle substantially spherical. In particular, these fillers may be chosen from:
organic fillers, such as: powders of polysaccharides, in particular of natural starch, modified starch or cellulose; powders of acrylic polymers such as polymethyl methacrylate, polyamide, polyolefins (including polyethylene); drying powder of algae such as coral algae (Corallina officinalis);
inorganic fillers, such as silica, clay, perlite, talc, mica, boron nitride, hydroxyapatite, glass and ceramics;
-and mixtures thereof.
Composite powders may also be used which are composed of at least one of the above-mentioned powders coated with at least one other of these powders, the resulting composite powder taking the form of, for example, core-shell particles.
Organic fillers, especially natural starches, modified starches and mixtures thereof, are particularly preferred for use in the present invention. The starch is preferably selected from modified or unmodified corn, rice, tapioca or wheat starch. Examples of modified starches are optionally pregelatinized and/or oxidized starches which are esterified with alkenylsuccinic anhydrides, in particular octenylsuccinic anhydride or dodecylsuccinic anhydride, optionally in the presence of calcium chloride, and etherified starches, in particular hydroxypropylated or carboxymethylated starches, and cationic, in particular quaternized starches. Mention may also be made of starch crosslinked by sodium trimetaphosphate.
In order to obtain stable compositions with good cosmetic properties, the compositions according to the invention contain a combination of certain fatty phase structuring agents.
By "fatty phase structuring agent" is meant a compound capable of thickening the oil contained in the composition, in particular chosen from waxes, fatty phase gelling agents and pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.
In the context of the present specification, the term "wax" means a fat that is solid at 25 ℃, has a reversible solid/liquid change, having a melting point, when measured by DSC, typically between 30 and 160 ℃, preferably between 50 ℃ and 90 ℃. Examples of waxes are in particular waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, chinese insect wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax or acacia wax; with C10-C18Hydrogenated vegetable oils esterified with fatty alcohols, in particular rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil and castor oil; straight chain saturated C14-C30Fatty acids and straight-chain saturated C16-C36Esters of fatty alcohols; straight chain saturated C10-C30An acid; straight chain saturated C8-C30An alcohol; and mixtures thereof.
The wax may comprise from 1 to 10 wt%, preferably from 2 to 8 wt%, based on the total weight of such composition.
The expression "fatty phase gelling agent" means a compound that alters the rheology of the fatty phase by forming a three-dimensional network. Compounds of this type used according to the invention are hydrophobically modified clays (especially bentonite and hectorite), especially clays modified by distearyldimethylammonium chloride; hydrophobically modified fumed silica; dextrin palmitate and myristate; c16-C26Mixtures of fatty acid glycerides (preferably saturated with straight chains), e.g. compounds
HKG; or optionally hydroxylated, linear, saturated C8-C30Triesters of fatty acids with mono-or polyglycerols, such as glyceryl trihydroxystearate; a cellulose derivative; and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, the fatty phase gelling agent comprises at least one triester of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid, preferably a triester of 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, known by the INCI name "trihydroxystearin", which can be specified specifically under the trade name "trihydroxystearin"
Commercially available under R from Elementis Specialties. Other fatty phase gelling agents selected, for example, from those listed above may alternatively or additionally be included in the composition.
The fatty phase gelling agent may comprise from 3% to 10% by weight of the composition.
Finally, pasty fats that can be used as structuring agent for the fat phase are defined as fats that have a reversible liquid/solid change, have an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state, and comprise a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 23 ℃. In other words, the pasty fat may have an initial melting point below 23 ℃. The liquid fraction of the pasty fat may constitute from 9 to 97% by weight of the pasty fat, when measured at 23 ℃. This liquid fraction preferably constitutes between 15% and 85% by weight, more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight of the pasty fat at 23 ℃.
In the sense of the present invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak described in standard ISO 11357-3, 1999 and measured using Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC). The weight ratio of the liquid fraction to the pasty fat at 23 ℃ is equal to the ratio of the melting enthalpy consumed at 23 ℃ to change from solid to liquid to the melting enthalpy of the pasty fat.
In particular, the pasty fat may be selected from:
polyol ethers, such as pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers,
esters of polyols, more particularly: (a) polyglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid with glycerol in which certain of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerol have been reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, for example under the trade name SASOL
Products sold under 649, or esters of polyglycerols (obtained by condensation of 2 to 10, preferably 3 or 4, glycerol units) with fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate; (b) pentaerythritol esters, (c) esters of dimer diols with dimer diacid esters, esterified if desired at their alcohol or free acid functions, in particular dilinoleates such as bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosterol-based dilinoleyl dilinoleate (from LIPO CHEMICALS)
G) Phytosterol isostearyl dimer linoleate (from NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL)
PI-DA、
PHY/IS-DA), phytosterol/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer linoleate (from LIPO CHEMICALS)
H or
S)，
Under the trade name ALZO
The propionate arachidyl alcohol sold under 801,
-a phytosterol ester, which is selected from the group consisting of,
hydrogenated vegetable oils, in particular hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, and mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils, in particular under the trade name VERTELLUS HOLDING LLC
The hydrogenated castor oil is sold as a hydrogenated castor oil,
vegetable butter, in particular shea butter, cocoa butter and mango butter, preferably shea butter,
and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the pasty fat is selected from the group consisting of vegetable fats, hydrogenated vegetable oils and mixtures thereof.
The pasty fat may comprise from 10 to 35 wt%, preferably from 15 to 30 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.
In an embodiment of the invention, as pasty fat, the fatty phase structuring agent comprises in particular at least one ester of a polyglycerol and a fatty acid having from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, selected from saturated linear acids, saturated branched acids, monounsaturated linear acids and mixtures thereof, and optionally mono-or polyhydroxylated. These polyglyceryl esters may be derived from the functionality of vegetable waxesAnd (4) transforming. In particular, it contains C38-C56Products of transesterification and polyglycerol decomposition of vegetable waxes of esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, such as may be obtained from the company GATTEFOSSE under the trade name GATTEFOSSE
The following commercially available INCI names are jojobasters, helioanthus annus (sunflower) SEED WAX, ACACIA DECURRENS FLOWER WAX&POLYGLYCERIN-3). Such products may comprise from 0.1% to 5%, preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight of the total composition.
The addition of such a constituent is particularly useful in the case where it is desired to incorporate at least one polyol in the composition according to the invention, which may be chosen, for example, from alkanediols and alkanetriols, such as glycerol, propylene glycol (propane-1, 2-diol), dipropylene glycol, propane-1, 3-diol, butane-1, 2-diol, butane-1, 4-diol, butane-2, 3-diol, butane-1, 3-diol, pentane-1, 5-diol, pentane-1, 2-diol, hexane-1, 6-diol, octane-1, 8-diol, 2-methylpentane-2, 4-diol, methylpropanediol, isopentanediol, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, glycerol or propylene glycol is used, advantageously glycerol. The polyol may comprise from 1% to 15%, preferably from 3% to 10% by weight of the total composition.
An important feature of the invention to ensure the stability of the composition is that the ratio between the total amount of powder (a) and pasty fat (c) (ii) and the amount of oil (b) is between 1.6 and 2.6, for example between 1.7 and 2.5, preferably between 1.8 and 2.0. In fact, it has been found that a ratio [ (a) + (c) (ii) ]/(b) of less than 1.6 leads to stability problems, in particular the release of oil on the surface of the composition. Furthermore, a ratio of greater than 2.6 results in a composition that is too stiff, thick and/or difficult to spread on the skin.
The composition according to the invention may also comprise additives, in particular selected from UV filters, fragrances, antioxidants such as tocopherols, dyes, preservatives and mixtures thereof.
UV filters that may be used according to the present invention include organic or inorganic UV filters that are effective in the UVA and/or UVB range.
The organic filtering agent may be chosen in particular from: benzophenones, e.g. diethyl amino HYDROXYBENZOYL BENZOATE (diethyl hydroxy benzoyl BENZOATE) available under the INCI name BASF
AP1us) and BENZOPHENONE-3 (BENZOPHENONE-3); benzotriazoles, e.g. INCI name METHYLENEBIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (methylenis-BENZOTRIAZOLYL tetramethylbutyl phenol), from BASF
M) of the product; triazines, e.g. INCI name ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE (ethylhexyltriazone, from BASF)
T150) and BIS (ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl TRIAZINE (BIS (ethylhexyloxyphenol) TRIAZINE from BASF
) The product of (1); benzimidazoles, e.g. the INCI name PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID (Phenylbenzimidizole sulponic ACID, from MERCK
232) The product of (1); esters of hydroxybenzoates, e.g. ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE (ethylhexylsalicylate, from Merck
OS) and HOMOSALATE (HOMOSALTE, from MERCK)
HMS); butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BUTYLMETHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE, available from MERCK)
9020) (ii) a ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE (ethylhexylmethyl METHOXYCINNAMATE, from BASF)
MC 80); cyanoacrylates such as OCTOCRYLENE (OCTOCRYLENE, from MERCK)
OCR); and mixtures thereof.
The inorganic UV filter is a coated or uncoated metal oxide pigment, such as a titanium oxide (amorphous or crystalline in rutile and/or anatase form), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium pigment. Preferably, the inorganic UV filters which can be used according to the invention are metal oxide particles having an average primary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 μm, more preferably between 0.05 and 0.5 μm, even more preferably between 0.010 and 0.1 μm, even more preferably between 0.015 and 0.050 μm.
These pigments may be coated or uncoated. Coated pigments are pigments which have undergone a surface treatment with one or more chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical properties of compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
Among the dyes which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of azo dyes and triarylmethanes, compounds of the phthalocyanine family and vegetable dyes, among which there may be mentioned in particular:
anthraquinone dyes, which can be extracted from Rubia cordifolia (Rubia tinctorum);
indigo dye, which can be extracted in particular from the following plants: polygonaceae (Persicaria tinctoria or Polygonum tinctorium), indigo (indigo naturalis), indigo naturalis (indigo naturalis), Robinia (Lonchocarpus cyanoscens), Cinnamomum cassia (Cheiranthus cannabis), Isatis tinctoria;
-chlorophylls, including chlorophylls a, b, c and d;
-polymethines;
flavonoids, including flavanols and cyanine diols, which may be derived from, for example, luteolin (Reseda luteola);
non-flavonoid yellow dyes, such as turmeric;
carotenoids, including carotenes and xanthophylls; and
-mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of synthetic polymers. Advantageously, such compositions contain ingredients of plant origin in an amount of at least 90% by weight, when determined according to ASTM D7026.
The composition according to the invention takes the form of a cream or balm. It may be a skin care composition, in particular an anti-ageing or moisturizing composition, a foundation or a make-up composition, such as a foundation, blush or eye shadow.
More specifically, it is intended to mask skin imperfections such as wrinkles, pores and/or oily skin, and/or to mask or correct skin color imperfections such as dullness, yellowing, dark circles under the eyes, age spots and redness.
The composition according to the invention is generally intended to be applied to the face, neck and/or neckline. Alternatively, it may be applied to the entire body, in particular the face, neck, neckline, chest, hands, arms, feet, legs and/or abdomen. Such compositions may be administered one or more times per day, for example in the morning and/or evening.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be better understood from the following examples, which are provided for illustration only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention as defined by the appended claims.
Example 1: balm capable of being changed into powder
Balm was prepared by mixing the following ingredients in the following weight ratios:
phase A
Phase B
Trihydroxystearin 5.00%
(TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN)
Phase C
Powder 35.00%
Totaling: 100.00 percent
Including from GATTEFOSSE
It contains C of polyglycerol-312-C30Fatty acid esters
This balm was prepared as follows: the constituents of phase a were mixed and heated to 75 ℃ and then cooled to between 60 and 65 ℃ before phase B was introduced. The mixture was vortexed in a rotor-stator type device for 20 minutes, then cooled to below 50 ℃, and then the other constituents were added one after the other with stirring using a deflocculating turbine. The resulting product is then packaged in cans at between 42 and 45 ℃.
Example 2: stability test
8 compositions A to H according to the invention and two comparative compositions I and J were prepared in a similar manner to example 1, differing only in the kind of oil, the amount of oil, pasty fat and powder and thus the ratio (R) of the total amount of powder and paste to the total amount of oil.
The appearance of these compositions was then evaluated after one month storage at 50 ℃.
The results are presented in the following table.
From this test it was found that the compositions a to H according to the invention are stable after storage at 50 ℃ for several weeks, i.e. they have a uniform appearance, unlike the comparative compositions I and J, which show an extravasation phenomenon after storage at this temperature for only one week.
Example 3: sensory testing
A panel of 20 women, with an average age of 35 years, with facial skin mostly normal to dry, was evaluated in a sensory analysis room for the composition according to the invention. The volunteers applied the required amount of product to the entire face and then answered the questionnaire immediately after application.
Seventy-five percent of the panelists considered the compositions to be pleasant in texture (rich but not greasy), ease of use and comfort, with the skin appearing soft but neither shiny nor tacky.
Claims (12)
1. An anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising:
(a)20 to 50% by weight of at least one powder selected from the group consisting of organic powders, inorganic powders and mixtures thereof,
(b)20 to 40% by weight of at least one oil, and
(c) at least one fatty phase structuring agent comprising (i) at least one fatty phase gelling agent selected from hydrophobically modified clays, hydrophobically modified fumed silicas, dextrin palmitate or myristate, C16-C26Mixture of fatty acid glycerides, linear saturated C optionally hydroxylated8-C30Triesters of fatty acids with mono-or polyglycerols, cellulose derivatives and mixtures thereof, and (ii) at least one pasty fat which is a fat having a reversible liquid/solid change, has an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state and is at 23 ℃Comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at temperature,
the above percentages being calculated with respect to the total weight of the composition,
the weight ratio between the total amount of the powder (a) and pasty fat (c) (ii) and the amount of the oil (b) is between 1.6 and 2.6, and the composition is free of bicarbonate and of silicone compounds.
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the oil represents from 25% to 30% of the total weight of the composition.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the oil is chosen from: saturated straight chain C2-C10(preferably C)6-C10) Acids and saturated straight-chain C10-C18(preferably C)10-C14) Monoesters or polyesters of monohydric alcohols, C6-C12Triglycerides of fatty acids, dialkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the powder represents from 30% to 45% of the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the powder is chosen from: fillers, organic pigments, mineral pigments, pearlescent materials and flakes, and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the pasty fat is chosen from: vegetable fats, hydrogenated vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the pasty fat represents from 10% to 35% by weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total amount of powder (a) and pasty fat (c) (ii) and the amount of oil (b) is between 1.7 and 2.5, preferably between 1.8 and 2.0.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the fatty phase gelling agent is a triester of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid.
10. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 9 for cosmetic use: skin care and/or make-up, in particular to mask skin imperfections such as wrinkles, pores and/or oily skin, and/or to mask or correct skin color imperfections such as dullness, yellowing, dark circles under the eyes, age spots and redness.
11. Cosmetic use of the composition of any one of claims 1 to 9 as a skin care composition or as a foundation.
12. A skin care and/or make-up cosmetic method, in particular for masking skin imperfections such as wrinkles, pores and/or oily skin, and/or for masking or correcting skin imperfections such as dullness, yellowing, dark circles under the eyes, age spots and redness, comprising the application to the skin of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9.
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR1860445 | 2018-11-13 | ||
| FR1860445A FR3088197B1 (en) | 2018-11-13 | 2018-11-13 | COSMETIC COMPOSITION SUITABLE TO TRANSFORM INTO POWDER |
| PCT/FR2019/052528 WO2020099749A2 (en) | 2018-11-13 | 2019-10-23 | Cosmetic composition capable of turning into powder |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN113272023A true CN113272023A (en) | 2021-08-17 |
Family
ID=65685729
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201980074449.3A Pending CN113272023A (en) | 2018-11-13 | 2019-10-23 | Cosmetic composition capable of being changed into powder |
Country Status (5)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP3880313A2 (en) |
| JP (1) | JP2022507312A (en) |
| CN (1) | CN113272023A (en) |
| FR (1) | FR3088197B1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2020099749A2 (en) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN115869214A (en) * | 2022-12-20 | 2023-03-31 | 上海臻臣化妆品有限公司 | Paste-powder-converted eye shadow and preparation method thereof |
Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US20040052827A1 (en) * | 2000-09-29 | 2004-03-18 | Wolfgang Winkler | Cosmetic pencil |
| KR20100015025A (en) * | 2008-08-04 | 2010-02-12 | 한국콜마 주식회사 | Semisolid type color tone cosmetic composition |
| CN104918603A (en) * | 2012-12-27 | 2015-09-16 | 株式会社林原 | Skin-exterior anti-ageing composition and production method therefor |
| CN105338955A (en) * | 2013-07-04 | 2016-02-17 | 莱雅公司 | Cosmetic composition comprising a pasty fatty substance and a non-ionic derivative of cellulose which is hydrophobically modified |
| CN106794119A (en) * | 2014-06-30 | 2017-05-31 | 莱雅公司 | Anhydrous composition comprising lipophilic gelling agents, at least one specific filler and oil phase |
Family Cites Families (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US8394394B2 (en) * | 2004-05-26 | 2013-03-12 | L'oréal | Mousse formulations |
-
2018
- 2018-11-13 FR FR1860445A patent/FR3088197B1/en active Active
-
2019
- 2019-10-23 CN CN201980074449.3A patent/CN113272023A/en active Pending
- 2019-10-23 JP JP2021525810A patent/JP2022507312A/en active Pending
- 2019-10-23 WO PCT/FR2019/052528 patent/WO2020099749A2/en unknown
- 2019-10-23 EP EP19813380.3A patent/EP3880313A2/en active Pending
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US20040052827A1 (en) * | 2000-09-29 | 2004-03-18 | Wolfgang Winkler | Cosmetic pencil |
| KR20100015025A (en) * | 2008-08-04 | 2010-02-12 | 한국콜마 주식회사 | Semisolid type color tone cosmetic composition |
| CN104918603A (en) * | 2012-12-27 | 2015-09-16 | 株式会社林原 | Skin-exterior anti-ageing composition and production method therefor |
| CN105338955A (en) * | 2013-07-04 | 2016-02-17 | 莱雅公司 | Cosmetic composition comprising a pasty fatty substance and a non-ionic derivative of cellulose which is hydrophobically modified |
| CN106794119A (en) * | 2014-06-30 | 2017-05-31 | 莱雅公司 | Anhydrous composition comprising lipophilic gelling agents, at least one specific filler and oil phase |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN115869214A (en) * | 2022-12-20 | 2023-03-31 | 上海臻臣化妆品有限公司 | Paste-powder-converted eye shadow and preparation method thereof |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| FR3088197A1 (en) | 2020-05-15 |
| WO2020099749A3 (en) | 2020-07-23 |
| EP3880313A2 (en) | 2021-09-22 |
| FR3088197B1 (en) | 2021-05-21 |
| WO2020099749A2 (en) | 2020-05-22 |
| JP2022507312A (en) | 2022-01-18 |
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