WO2020002154A1 - Dispositif d'application d'une composition de coloration de fibres kératiniques, comprenant au moins un copolymère dérivé de la polymérisation d'au moins un monomère de l'acide crotonique ou d'un dérivé d'acide crotonique - Google Patents

Dispositif d'application d'une composition de coloration de fibres kératiniques, comprenant au moins un copolymère dérivé de la polymérisation d'au moins un monomère de l'acide crotonique ou d'un dérivé d'acide crotonique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020002154A1
WO2020002154A1 PCT/EP2019/066485 EP2019066485W WO2020002154A1 WO 2020002154 A1 WO2020002154 A1 WO 2020002154A1 EP 2019066485 W EP2019066485 W EP 2019066485W WO 2020002154 A1 WO2020002154 A1 WO 2020002154A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
vinyl
weight
crotonic acid
spikes
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2019/066485
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Clémence TAINE
Camille Schreiber
Malayphone SANANIKONE
David Seneca
Delphine Charrier
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2020002154A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020002154A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
    • A45D19/0041—Processes for treating the hair of the scalp
    • A45D19/0066—Coloring or bleaching
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D40/00—Casings or accessories specially adapted for storing or handling solid or pasty toiletry or cosmetic substances, e.g. shaving soaps or lipsticks
    • A45D40/26—Appliances specially adapted for applying pasty paint, e.g. using roller, using a ball
    • A45D40/262—Appliances specially adapted for applying pasty paint, e.g. using roller, using a ball using a brush or the like
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46—BRUSHWARE
    • A46B—BRUSHES
    • A46B9/00—Arrangements of the bristles in the brush body
    • A46B9/02—Position or arrangement of bristles in relation to surface of the brush body, e.g. inclined, in rows, in groups
    • A46B9/021—Position or arrangement of bristles in relation to surface of the brush body, e.g. inclined, in rows, in groups arranged like in cosmetics brushes, e.g. mascara, nail polish, eye shadow
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46—BRUSHWARE
    • A46B—BRUSHES
    • A46B2200/00—Brushes characterized by their functions, uses or applications
    • A46B2200/10—For human or animal care
    • A46B2200/1046—Brush used for applying cosmetics
    • A46B2200/1053—Cosmetics applicator specifically for mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46—BRUSHWARE
    • A46B—BRUSHES
    • A46B2200/00—Brushes characterized by their functions, uses or applications
    • A46B2200/10—For human or animal care
    • A46B2200/1046—Brush used for applying cosmetics
    • A46B2200/1053—Cosmetics applicator specifically for mascara
    • A46B2200/106—Cosmetics applicator specifically for mascara including comb like element
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/87—Application Devices; Containers; Packaging

Definitions

  • the subject of the present invention is a device for applying a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, especially the hair, comprising a container comprising a composition comprising at least one copolymer derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer of crotonic acid or crotonic acid derivative and of at least one vinyl ester monomer, at least one thickening polymer and at least one pigment, and an applicator for applying said composition to the keratin fibres.
  • Another subject of the present invention is a dyeing method using said device.
  • non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct dyeing which does not use the oxidative condensation process and withstands four or five shampoo washes; it consists in dyeing keratin fibres with dye compositions containing direct dyes. These dyes are coloured and colouring molecules that have affinity for keratin fibres,
  • Another dyeing method consists in using pigments.
  • pigments Specifically, the use of pigment on the surface of keratin fibres generally makes it possible to obtain visible colourings on dark hair, since the surface pigment masks the natural colour of the fibre.
  • the use of pigment for dyeing keratin fibres is described, for example, in patent application FR 2 741 530; when they are applied to keratin fibres, these compositions have the drawback of transferring, i.e. of becoming at least partly deposited, leaving marks, on certain supports with which they may be placed in contact and in particular clothing or the skin. This results in mediocre persistence of the applied film, making it necessary to regularly repeat the application of the composition. Moreover, the appearance of these unacceptable marks may put certain people off using this type of dyeing.
  • the temporary dyeing compositions and/or compositions for making up the hair are often applied to hair by conventional means such as the fingers, leading to staining of the skin and the scalp, in particular when applying the composition to the hair located above the temples.
  • compositions for temporarily dyeing and/or making up the hair may also lead to a hair feel that is uncosmetic and/or not natural; the hair thus dyed may in particular lack softness and/or suppleness and/or strand separation.
  • a device for applying a composition for the temporary dyeing of keratin fibres, especially the hair which has the advantage of significantly limiting staining of the scalp and/or the skin while forming a transfer- resistant deposit, which especially does not become deposited, at least partly, onto supports with which the composition is brought into contact, such as the skin (in particular the hands and the face) and/or clothing.
  • the aim of the invention is to develop a device for applying a composition for dyeing keratin fibres such as the hair which significantly limits staining of the scalp and/or the skin, which does not adversely affect the cosmetic properties of the hair such as softness and suppleness, while retaining hair with good strand separation and having transfer-resistant properties.
  • a composition for dyeing keratin fibres such as the hair which significantly limits staining of the scalp and/or the skin, which does not adversely affect the cosmetic properties of the hair such as softness and suppleness, while retaining hair with good strand separation and having transfer-resistant properties.
  • a container comprising a body forming a reservoir intended to contain the composition for dyeing keratin fibres, said composition comprising:
  • an applicator for applying said composition to keratin fibres, especially the hair comprising a core extending along a longitudinal axis (X), a first axial row and a second axial row of spikes protruding from said core, attached on each opposite side of the core parallel to the longitudinal axis (X), and extending over a portion of the axial length of the core.
  • Another subject of the invention is a process for dyeing keratin fibres, especially human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said fibres of a composition applied from a device as defined above, optionally followed by drying.
  • this device makes it possible to dye keratin fibres, in particular the hair, especially the hair located at the temples, without staining the scalp and/or the skin. Moreover, the combing of the hair during the application is easy; in particular, the device according to the invention limits the entangling of hair during the application. After the application of the composition to the keratin fibres, the composition has good transfer resistance and deposition onto the supports with which the composition is brought into contact, such as the skin and/or clothing, is limited. Moreover, the device according to the invention has good strand separation of the hair, while giving hair which has a smoother feel, is softer and more supple and which is easy to disentangle.
  • hair with strand separation is understood to mean hair which, after application of the composition and drying, is not stuck together (or each strand of which is separated from one another) and thus does not form clumps of hair.
  • the invention is not limited to the examples illustrated. The features of the various examples can in particular be combined as parts of variants which are not illustrated.
  • spike denotes an individualizable protruding element intended to engage with the keratin fibres, especially the hair.
  • elongation axis of the spike denotes an axis which passes through the centres of mass of the cross sections of the spike.
  • height of a spike denotes the distance measured along the elongation axis of the spike between its free end and its base by way of which it is connected to the core.
  • FIG. 1 depicts a schematic elevation view, in partial longitudinal section, of an example of a device for applying a composition for dyeing keratin fibres produced in accordance with the invention
  • Figure 2 depicts the applicator member from figure 1 in isolation
  • Figure 3 depicts a picture of the applicator member according to the invention
  • Figure 4 depicts a picture of comparative classical brush applicator
  • FIG. 5 depicts a picture of another comparative classical brush applicator.
  • composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic composition for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one copolymer derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer of crotonic acid or crotonic acid derivative and of at least one vinyl ester monomer, preferably at least two different vinyl ester monomers.
  • the copolymer according to the invention is chosen from copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer of crotonic acid and of at least one vinyl ester monomer, preferably at least two different vinyl ester monomers.
  • crotonic acid derivative preferably means a crotonic acid ester or a crotonic acid amide.
  • crotonic acid derivative preferably means a crotonic acid ester or amide, in particular:
  • crotonic acid esters of formula CTbCT CHCOOR'i with R'i representing a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic (aryl, aralkyl or alkylaryl) carbon-based and especially hydrocarbon-based (alkyl) chain, having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more functions chosen from - OH, -OR with R' being Ci-CV, alkyl (alkoxy), -CN, -X (halogen, especially Cl, F, Br or I); mention may be made, for example, of methyl crotonoate and ethyl crotonoate,
  • crotonic acid amides of formula CH3CH CHCONR'2R M 2 with R'2 and R ,5 2, which are identical or different, representing hydrogen or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, carbon-based and especially hydrocarbon- based (alkyl) chain, having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more functions chosen from -OH, -OR with R' Ci-C 6 alkyl (alkoxy), -CN, -X (halogen, especially Cl, F, Br or I).
  • crotonic acid derivative preferably means a crotonic acid ester or amide, in particular:
  • the copolymer according to the invention is chosen from copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer of crotonic acid and of at least two different vinyl ester monomers, said vinyl ester monomers preferably being chosen from vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl butyrate (or butanoate), vinyl ethylhexanoate, vinyl neononanoate, vinyl neododecanoate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl cyclohexanoate, vinyl benzoate, vinyl 4-tert-butylbenzoate and vinyl trifluoroacetate, preferably from vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate and vinyl neodecanoate, better still from vinyl acetate and vinyl neodecanoate.
  • vinyl ester monomers preferably being chosen from vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl butyrate (or butanoate), vinyl ethylhexanoate, vinyl neononanoate, vinyl
  • the copolymer according to the invention is chosen from copolymers derived from the polymerization of crotonic acid, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, copolymers derived from the polymerization of crotonic acid, vinyl acetate and vinyl neodecanoate, and mixtures thereof
  • the copolymer of the composition according to the invention is a crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neodecanoate terpolymer.
  • the copolymers according to the invention may optionally comprise other monomers such as allylic or methallylic esters, or vinyl ethers. These polymers may optionally be grafted or crosslinked.
  • Luviset® CA 66 sold by BASF
  • Aristoflex® A60 sold by Clariant
  • Mexomere® PW or PAM sold by Chimex (INCI name VA / vinyl butyl benzoate / crotonates copolymer).
  • the total amount of copolymer(s) of crotonic acid or crotonic acid derivative according to the invention may range from 0.05% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one thickening polymer containing acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid unit(s).
  • the polymer containing acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid unit(s) according to the invention may be crosslinked.
  • the polymer containing acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid unit(s) according to the invention is crosslinked.
  • thickening polymer refers to a polymer which, by its presence at a concentration of 0.05% by weight, increases the viscosity of a composition into which it is introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at ambient temperature (25°C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s 1 .
  • the viscosity may be measured using a rheometer such as a Rheomat RM180 fitted with a no. 3 or no.
  • the composition contains one or more thickening polymers containing (meth)acrylic acid unit(s).
  • the thickening polymers containing (meth)acrylic acid unit(s) may optionally be in salified form.
  • the acrylic or methacrylic acid units may be in alkali metal or ammonium acrylate or methacrylate form.
  • the thickening polymers containing (meth)acrylic acid unit(s) according to the invention may be anionic or amphoteric, preferably anionic.
  • the thickening polymers containing (meth)acrylic acid unit(s) are especially chosen from:
  • amphiphilic polymer is understood to mean, according to the invention, an amphiphilic polymer comprising both hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, in particular comprising at least one C 8 -C 30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit.
  • the composition contains an acrylic acid homopolymer, which is preferably crosslinked.
  • Polymers of this type have the INCI name Carbomer. a) acrylic associative polymers;
  • Acrylic associative polymers according to the invention that may be used are acrylic associative polymers containing (meth)acrylic acid unit(s) chosen from:
  • the associative polymers containing (meth)acrylic acid unit(s) may be chosen from:
  • Anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of (meth)acrylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit of (Cio-C3o)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type;
  • Amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of (meth)acrylic acid type and containing at least one fatty chain, such as copolymers of methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid/Cio-C3o alkyl methacrylate, the alkyl radical preferably being a stearyl radical. b) preferably crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
  • the polymer may be crosslinked with a crosslinking agent, in particular chosen from pcntacrythritol allyl ether, sucrose allyl ether, or propylene allyl ether.
  • a crosslinking agent in particular chosen from pcntacrythritol allyl ether, sucrose allyl ether, or propylene allyl ether.
  • Such polymers have the INCI name: Carbomer.
  • Use may be made, for example, of the polymers sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol 980 or 981, or Carbopol Ultrez 10, or by 3 V under the name Synthalen K or Synthalen L or Synthalen M.
  • crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of Ci-C 6 alkyl acrylate that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Viscoatex 538C by Coatex, which is a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion containing 38% active material, or the product sold under the name Aculyn 33 by Rohm & Haas, which is a crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion containing 28% active material.
  • ammonium acrylate homopolymers that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by Hoechst.
  • the composition comprises at least one crosslinked acrylic and/or methacrylic acid thickening polymer.
  • the composition comprises at least one thickening polymer containing (meth)acrylic acid unit(s) chosen from crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
  • the thickening polymer(s) containing (meth)acrylic acid unit(s) may represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, better still from 0.8% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.
  • the thickening polymer(s) containing (meth)acrylic acid unit(s) represent a total content of at least 1% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 1% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of the total amount of copolymer(s) of crotonic acid or crotonic acid derivative according to the invention to the total amount of thickening polymer(s) containing (meth)acrylic acid unit(s) ranges from 0.1 to 15, more preferentially from 0.5 to 10, better still from 1 to 5.
  • the composition can comprise at least one silicone.
  • the composition comprises at least two different silicones.
  • the composition contains at least one amino silicone.
  • the silicones may be solid or liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013x 105 Pa), and volatile or nonvolatile.
  • the silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils are preferred.
  • the composition contains one or more silicones that are liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013x 105 Pa).
  • the volatile silicones may be chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure) and more particularly from:
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as
  • cyclomethylsiloxane Preferably cyclomethylsiloxane.
  • cyclic silicones with silicon-derived organic compounds such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of l,l'-oxy(2,2,2',2',3,3'- hexatrimethylsilyloxy)bisneopentane; ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x lO 6 m 2 /s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasilo xane .
  • silicones belonging to this category are described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics"; mention may be made of the product sold under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone.
  • nonvolatile silicones mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, amine groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene groups.
  • the nonvolatile silicones are chosen from poly dimethyl/methylsiloxane which is optionally oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated.
  • the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and poly dimethyl/ dipheny lsilo xanes .
  • organopolysiloxanes comprising:
  • polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyols, and especially those sold by Dow Coming under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from Union Carbide; or alternatively (Cl2)alkylmethicone copolyols, and especially those sold by Dow Coming under the name Q2 5200;
  • Ci-C 4 aminoalkyl groups in particular Ci-C 4 aminoalkyl groups
  • hydroxylated groups for instance polyorganosiloxanes containing a hydroxyalkyl function
  • the silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • polydialkylsiloxanes mention may be made of the following commercial products:
  • oils of the 200 series from Dow Coming such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 /s;
  • Products that may be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • CFA cyclic polydimethylsiloxane
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 x 10 5 to 5 X 10 2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • oils of the SF series from General Electric such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
  • composition according to the invention contains at least one dimethicone.
  • the composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more amino silicones.
  • amino silicone denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
  • the weight-average molecular masses of these amino silicones may be measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C), as polystyrene equivalent.
  • the columns used are m styragel columns.
  • the eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml/min. 200 m ⁇ of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry.
  • amino silicone(s) that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen from: a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):
  • x’ and y’ are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500 000 approximately;
  • - G which is identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH, Ci-Cs alkyl, for example methyl, or Ci-C 8 alkoxy, for example methoxy, group,
  • - a which is identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0,
  • - b denotes 0 or 1 , in particular 1 ,
  • - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and especially from 1 to 10;
  • - R' which is identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula - CqfBqL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quatemized amine group chosen from the following groups:
  • R which is identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical
  • Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula C r H 2r , r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4
  • A- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, especially a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide anion.
  • the amino silicones are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B).
  • the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to formulae (C), (D), (E), (F) and/or (G) below.
  • the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones known as "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone" corresponding to formula (C):
  • n and m are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10.
  • amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (D) below: in which:
  • n + m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000 and in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 999 and especially from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 1000 and especially from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;
  • R 2 and R 3 which are identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or Ci- C 4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri to R 3 denoting an alkoxy radical.
  • the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25 : 1 to 0.35 : 1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3 : 1.
  • the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000.
  • the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (E) below:
  • - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; it being possible for p to denote a number from 0 to 999 and especially from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and for q to denote a number from 1 to 1000, especially from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;
  • Rl and R2 which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Rl or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical.
  • the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1 :0.8 to 1 :1.1 and preferably from 1 :0.9 to 1 :l and more particularly is equal to 1 :0.95.
  • the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200 000, even more particularly from 5000 to 100 000 and more particularly from 10 000 to 50 000.
  • the commercial products comprising silicones of structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones of which the structure is different from formula (D) or (E).
  • a product containing amino silicones of structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.
  • a product containing amino silicones of structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®.
  • the oil-in water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants.
  • the surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or nonionic.
  • the numerical mean size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometres.
  • amino silicones of formula (E) use is made of microemulsions of which the mean particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nanometers (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nanometers (limits included).
  • the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (E) sold under the names Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by Wacker.
  • the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (F) below:
  • n + m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and especially from 1 to 10;
  • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
  • the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200 000.
  • a silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, the Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Coming.
  • the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (G) below:
  • n + m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and especially from 1 to 10;
  • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
  • the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 1000 to 200 000.
  • a silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Coming. c) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (H):
  • R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl, for example methyl, radical;
  • - Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, especially a Ci-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
  • - Q- is an anion such as a halide, especially chloride, ion or an organic acid salt, especially acetate;
  • - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;
  • - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
  • - R 7 which are identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon- based radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
  • - Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, especially a Ci-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-C 8 , alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
  • R. 8 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a radical -R f .-NHCOR?;
  • - X- is an anion such as a halide, especially chloride, ion or an organic acid salt, especially acetate;
  • - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which are identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
  • R 5 denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group
  • - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • - x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq/g. f) the multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of the type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.
  • Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units of the following general formulae: [-(SiMe 2 0) x SiMe2 - R -N(R")- R'-0(C2H 4 0)a(C 3 H60)b -R'-N(H)-R-] or alternatively
  • - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
  • - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;
  • - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000 and more particularly from 10 to
  • - R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl
  • R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a radical
  • R denotes a radical CH 2 CH2CH20CH 2 CH(0H)CH2-;
  • R’ denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a radical
  • R’ denotes -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -.
  • the siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 mol% to 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.
  • the amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
  • the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000 000 and more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000.
  • the composition comprises at least one non-amino silicone and/or at least one amino silicone.
  • the composition comprises at least one non-amino silicone of INCI name dimethicone and/or at least one amino silicone of INCI name amodimethicone.
  • the composition comprises, as silicone, an oil-in water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, and comprising:
  • a silicone mixture comprising (i) at least one polydialkylsiloxane comprising trialkyl sily 1 end groups, having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 40 000 to 100 000 mPa.s and (ii) at least one amino silicone having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1000 to 15 000 mPa.s and an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone;
  • surfactant mixture comprising one or more nonionic surfactants, said mixture having an HLB ranging from 10 to 16, and
  • a liquid phase (the dispersed phase) is advantageously dispersed in another liquid phase (the continuous phase); in the present invention, the mixture of silicones, or silicone phase, is dispersed in the aqueous continuous phase.
  • the mixture of silicones comprises one or more polydialkylsiloxanes containing trialkylsilyl end groups, preferably of formula (II): R' 3 SiO(R'2SiO)pSiR' 3
  • - R’ which is identical or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, even better still a methyl radical, and
  • - p is an integer ranging from 500 to 2000, better still from 1000 to 2000.
  • the polydialkylsiloxanes containing trialkylsilyl end groups according to the invention have a viscosity ranging from 40 000 to 100 000 mPa.s (preferably 100 000 excluded) at 25°C, preferably ranging from 40 000 to 70 000 mPa.s at 25°C, better still from 51 000 to 70 000 mPa.s at 25°C.
  • the polydialkylsiloxanes containing trialkylsilyl end groups according to the invention are preferably linear, but they may comprise, in addition to the R' 2 Si0 2/2 units (D-units), additional RS1O3/2 units (T -units) and/or S1O4/2 units (Q-units), in which R', which is identical or different, is a Ci-Cis monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical.
  • R’ which is identical or different, is:
  • alkyl preferably C1-C28 alkyl, radical, such as the radicals methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, l-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, tert-pentyl, hexyl and especially n-hexyl, heptyl and especially n-heptyl, octyl and especially n-octyl, isooctyl, 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl; nonyl and especially n-nonyl; decyl and especially n-decyl; dodecyl and especially n-dodecyl; octadecyl and especially n-octadecyl;
  • alkenyl radical such as vinyl and allyl
  • a cycloalkyl radical such as cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclo hexyl;
  • an aryl radical such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl;
  • alkaryl radical such as the radicals 0-, m- and p-tolyl; xylyl, ethylphenyl;
  • an aralkyl radical such as benzyl and phenylethyl.
  • R’ is a methyl radical
  • the polydialkylsiloxanes comprising trialkylsilyl end groups are polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) comprising trialkylsilyl end groups.
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
  • the silicone mixture also comprises one or more amino silicones, preferably of formula (III): XR 2 Si(OSiAR) confront(OSiR2) m OSiR2X
  • R which is identical or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, even better still a methyl radical,
  • X which is identical or different, represents R or a hydroxyl (OH) or a Ci- C 6 alkoxy group; preferably, X is R, that is to say a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, even better still a methyl radical,
  • - A is an amino radical of formula -R 1 -[NR 2 -R 3 -]XNR 2 2, or the protonated form of this amino radical, with
  • R 1 representing a Ci-C 6 alkylene radical, preferably a -CH2CH2CH2- or -
  • R 2 which is identical or different, is a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom,
  • R 3 is a Ci-C 6 alkylene radical, preferably a -CH2CH2- radical,
  • n are integers such that m+n ranges from 50 to 1000, better still from
  • A is an amino radical of formula -R 1 -[NR 2 -R 3 -]XNR 2 2 , or the protonated form of this amino radical, with R 1 being -CH2CH2CH 2 - or - CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R 2 being hydrogen atoms, R 3 being -CH2CH2- and x being equal to 1.
  • R which is identical or different, is:
  • alkyl preferably C1-C28 alkyl, radical, such as the radicals methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, l-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, tert-pentyl, hexyl and especially n-hexyl, heptyl and especially n-heptyl, octyl and especially n-octyl, isooctyl, 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl; nonyl and especially n-nonyl; decyl and especially n-decyl; dodecyl and especially n-dodecyl; octadecyl and especially n-octadecyl;
  • alkenyl radical such as vinyl and allyl
  • a cycloalkyl radical such as cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclo hexyl;
  • an aryl radical such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl;
  • alkaryl radical such as the radicals 0-, m- and p-tolyl
  • xylyl ethylphenyl
  • - an aralkyl radical such as benzyl and phenylethyl.
  • R is a methyl radical.
  • the amino silicones according to the invention have a viscosity, at 25°C, ranging from 1000 to 15 000 mPa.s, preferably from 1500 to 15 000 mPa.s.
  • the amino silicones according to the invention have an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone; preferably from 3.5 to 8 mg.
  • the molar percentage of amine function is preferably between 0.3 and 8 mol%.
  • amino silicones comprising trialkylsilyl end groups; preferably aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxanes comprising trialkylsilyl end groups, even better still copolymers of aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane comprising trialkylsilyl end groups/ dimethylsilo xane .
  • the amino radical A may be partially or totally protonated, for example by addition of acids to the amino silicone, so as to obtain the salified form of said amino radical.
  • the acids may be used in a proportion of from 0.1 to 2.0 mol per mole of amino radical A in the amino silicone of formula (III).
  • the silicone mixture preferably comprises (i) one or more polydialkylsiloxanes comprising trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity, at 25°C, ranging from 40 000 to 100 000 mPa.s, in an amount of from 70% to 90% by weight, preferably from 75% to 85% by weight, and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity, at 25°C, ranging from 1000 to 15 000 mPa.s and an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in an amount of from 10% to 30% by weight, in particular from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture.
  • the oil-in-water emulsion also comprises a surfactant mixture which comprises one or more nonionic surfactants; said surfactant mixture may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants.
  • Said surfactant mixture has an HLB ranging from 10 to 16.
  • the nonionic surfactants that may be used may be chosen from alcohols, a- diols and (Ci-C 2 o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; or else these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene
  • nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type represented especially by the following general formula:
  • - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical of which the linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
  • - R 2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms
  • - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4,
  • - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.
  • alkyl(poly)gly coside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:
  • Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms
  • R 2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,
  • - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose
  • the degree of polymerization i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
  • the glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type.
  • the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.
  • the mono- or polyglycerolated surfactants preferably comprise an average number of glycerol groups ranging from 1 to 30, especially from 1 to 10, better still from 1.5 to 5. They preferably correspond to one of the following formulae:
  • - R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon- based (in particular alkyl or alkenyl) radical comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, especially 10 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as O and N; and
  • - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 30, preferably from 1 to 10, better still from
  • R may comprise one or more hydroxyl and/or ether and/or amide groups.
  • R is a mono- or polyhydroxylated Cio-C 2 o alkyl or alkenyl radical.
  • (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols preferably comprising one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chains comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (OH) groups, especially 1 to 4 hydroxyl groups.
  • the chain When the chain is unsaturated, it may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • the (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols preferably correspond to formula (IV):
  • R 3 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more, especially 1 to 4, hydroxyl groups;
  • - c is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, especially from 2 to 150, or even from 4 to 50 and even better still from 8 to 30.
  • the (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 EO); mention may in particular be made of lauryl alcohol 2 EO; lauryl alcohol 3 EO; decyl alcohol 3 EO; decyl alcohol 5 EO and oleyl alcohol 20 EO.
  • the nonionic surfactants may advantageously be chosen from:
  • R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising from
  • - c is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, especially from 2 to 150, or even from 4 to 50 and even better still from 8 to 20.
  • polyoxyalkylenated esters of C8-C32 fatty acids and of sorbitan especially polyoxyethylenated esters of C8-C32 fatty acids and of sorbitan, preferably having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide (EO) units; in particular polyoxyethylenated esters of C10-C24 fatty acids and of sorbitan, preferably having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide (EO) units; and
  • polyoxyethylenated esters of C8-C32 fatty acids preferably having from 2 to 150 ethylene oxide units; especially polyoxyethylenated esters of C10-C24 fatty acids, especially comprising 2 to 150 ethylene oxide (EO) units.
  • the nonionic surfactants may advantageously be chosen from alkyl ethers and alkyl esters of polyalkylene glycol, especially of polyethylene glycol.
  • polyethylene glycol octyl ether polyethylene glycol lauryl ether; polyethylene glycol tridecyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearyl ether; and most particularly trideceth-3, trideceth-lO and steareth-6;
  • polyethylene glycol nonylphenyl ether polyethylene glycol dodecylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearylphenyl ether;
  • nonionic surfactants may be chosen from Steareth-6, PEG 100 stearate, trideceth-3 and trideceth-lO, and mixtures thereof; most particularly, a mixture comprising these four nonionic surfactants.
  • the surfactant mixture may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants, which may be chosen from tetraalkylammonium, tetraarylammonium and tetraalkylarylammonium salts, especially halides, and most particularly from cetrimonium or behentrimonium salts, in particular halides, better still chlorides.
  • one or more cationic surfactants which may be chosen from tetraalkylammonium, tetraarylammonium and tetraalkylarylammonium salts, especially halides, and most particularly from cetrimonium or behentrimonium salts, in particular halides, better still chlorides.
  • the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the surfactant mixture in a total amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, especially from 8% to 15% by weight, even better still from 10% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the nonionic surfactant(s) in a total amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, especially from 8% to 15% by weight, even better still from 10% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the cationic surfactant(s), when they are present, in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the silicone mixture in a total amount ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, especially from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the polydialkylsiloxane(s) comprising trialkylsilyl end groups in a total amount ranging from 35% to 45% by weight, especially from 38% to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the oil- in- water emulsion preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) in a total amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, in particular from 8% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises water in a total amount ranging from 25% to 50% by weight, especially from 30% to 45% by weight, even better still from 35% to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the oil-in-water emulsion may also comprise a preservative, such as phenoxy ethanol, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • a process for preparing the oil- in- water emulsion preferably comprises:
  • a surfactant mixture comprising one or more nonionic surfactants, said mixture having an HLB ranging from 10 to 16, to said fluid mixture of silicones, in order to obtain an emulsified silicone mixture;
  • the preparation process may also comprise an additional step of adding one or more preservatives.
  • the pH of the oil- in- water emulsion is generally between 4 and 6.
  • the oil-in-water emulsion has a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, especially of between 100 and 300 nm, better still between 150 and 250 nm, or even between 160 and 200 nm.
  • This size corresponds to the average hydrodynamic particle diameter.
  • the particle size D50 is expressed by volume. It can be measured using a ZetaSizer device from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, based on the“Photon Correlation Spectroscopy (PCS)” method.
  • the particle size of the emulsion is measured using a ZetaSizer device from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, based on the“Photon Correlation Spectroscopy (PCS)” method.
  • the particle size D50 is measured when the evaluation algorithm is“cumulant analysis”.
  • 0.5 g of the emulsion is placed in a 250 ml beaker, 100 ml of demineralized water are added and mixing is carried out in order to obtain the solution to be tested.
  • the solution to be tested is placed in the measuring vessel (or cell) and introduced into the measuring device.
  • the size D50 corresponds to the particle diameter value at 50% in cumulative distribution.
  • the viscosities, especially of the silicone compounds are measured at 25°C,
  • the MCR Rheometer Series products operate according to the USP convention (US Pharmacopeia Convention, 912 - Rotational Rheometer methods).
  • the amine number can be measured by acid-based titration, using a potentiometer [Make: Veego; model VPT-MG] 0.6 g of the sample is placed in a 500 ml beaker and a 1 : 1 toluene-butanol mixture is added, then mixing is carried out.
  • a potentiometer [Make: Veego; model VPT-MG] 0.6 g of the sample is placed in a 500 ml beaker and a 1 : 1 toluene-butanol mixture is added, then mixing is carried out.
  • the solution is titrated with a 0.1 N HC1 solution.
  • a determination of the zero value (Vblank) is also carried out with the 1 : 1 toluene-butanol mixture alone.
  • the amine number is calculated by means of the formula:
  • V volume of HC1 required (in ml)
  • VBlank volume of HC1 required for the zero value (in ml)
  • N normality of HC1, i.e. 0.1
  • W weight of the sample (in g) ⁇
  • HLB relates to the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant. It can be measured experimentally or calculated.
  • the HLB values are the values at 25°C.
  • HLB (E + P)/5, in which E is the % by weight of oxyethylene and P is the % by weight of polyol, as is described in the publication Griffin, J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (vol.5, No. 4), pages 249-256.
  • the hydrophilic part corresponds to the oxyethylene units fused to the fatty alcohol and the “calculated HLB” then corresponds to the“HLB according to Griffin”.
  • the hydrophilic part is generally defined as being beyond the carbonyl group, starting from the fatty chain(s).
  • HLB values of nonionic surfactants can also be calculated by means of the Davies formula, as described in Davies JT (1957), "A quantitative kinetic theory of emulsion type, I. Physical chemistry of the emulsifying agent", Gas/Liquid and Liquid/Liquid Interface (Proceedings of the International Congress of Surface Activity): 426-438.
  • the HLB value is obtained by adding the hydrophilic/hydrophobic contribution linked to the constituent groups in the surfactant:
  • HLB (number of hydrophilic groups) - n(number of groups per CH 2 group) +7.
  • HLB values of some cationic surfactants are given in Table IV, in "Cationic emulsifiers in cosmetics", GODFREY, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists (1966) 17, pages 17-27.
  • the HLBMix corresponds to the HLB of the mixture and can be expressed by the following equation:
  • HLBMix (WAHLBA + WBHLBB)/ (WA + WB)
  • WA is the amount (weight) of the lst surfactant A and WB the amount of the 2nd surfactant B
  • HLB A and HLBB are the HLB values of the surfactant A and of the surfactant B.
  • the oil- in- water silicone emulsion is advantageously present in a total amount of at least 0.1%, preferably of at least 0.3%, more preferentially of at least 0.5%, more preferably of at least 1%, better still of at least 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise the oil- in- water silicone emulsion in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 12% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, yet more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises the oil-in water silicone emulsion in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 12% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, yet more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the emulsion has a solids (or active material) content of silicone(s) of between 40% and 60% by weight, especially 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the weight ratio of the total amount of copolymer(s) of crotonic acid or crotonic acid derivative according to the invention to the total amount of oil-in water silicone emulsion ranges from 0.1 to 10, more preferentially from 0.3 to 7 and at best from 0.5 to 5.
  • the silicone(s) may be present in a total amount of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 0.05%, more preferentially at least 0.1%, more preferably at least 0.5%, better still at least 0.75% and even better still 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the silicone(s) is (are) present in a total amount which may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, more preferentially from 0.1% to 4% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3.5% by weight and even better still from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of amino silicone(s) may range from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 4% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight and even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of non-amino silicone(s) may range from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 2% by weight and better still from 0.01 % to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of the total amount of copolymer(s) of crotonic acid or crotonic acid derivative according to the invention to the total amount of silicone(s) may range from 0.1 to 10, more preferentially from 0.5 to 8 and better still from 1 to 5.
  • the weight ratio of the total amount of copolymer(s) of crotonic acid or crotonic acid derivative according to the invention to the total amount of amino silicone(s) may range from 0.1 to 30, more preferentially from 0.5 to 25 and better still from 1 to 20.
  • the composition comprises one or more pigments.
  • pigment is intended to mean white or coloured particles of any shape which are insoluble in the composition in which they are present.
  • the pigments that may be used are especially chosen from the organic and/or mineral pigments known in the art, especially those described in Kirk-Othmer’s Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.
  • They may be natural, of natural origin, or not.
  • These pigments may be in pigment powder or paste form. They may be coated or uncoated.
  • the pigments may be chosen, for example, from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pigments with special effects, such as pearlescent agents or glitter flakes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the pigment may be a mineral pigment.
  • the term“mineral pigment” means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Mention may be made, among mineral pigments of use in the present invention, of ochres, such as red ochre (clay (in particular kaolinite) and iron hydroxide (for example hematite)), brown ochre (clay (in particular kaolinite) and limonite) or yellow ochre (clay (in particular kaolinite) and goethite); titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated; zirconium or cerium oxides; zinc, (black, yellow or red) iron or chromium oxides; manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue; or metal powders, such as aluminium powder or copper powder.
  • ochres such as red ochre (clay (in particular kaolinite) and iron hydroxide (for example hemati
  • alkaline earth metal carbonates such as calcium carbonate or magnesium carbonate
  • silicon dioxide such as calcium carbonate or magnesium carbonate
  • quartz any other compound used as inert filler in cosmetic compositions, provided that these compounds contribute colour or whiteness to the composition under the conditions under which they are employed.
  • the pigment may be an organic pigment.
  • organic pigment means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
  • the organic pigment may especially be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal-complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.
  • Use may also be made of any mineral or organic compound that is insoluble in the composition and standard in the cosmetics field, provided that these compounds give the composition colour or whiteness under the conditions under which they are used, for example guanine, which, according to the refractive index of the composition, is a pigment.
  • guanine which, according to the refractive index of the composition, is a pigment.
  • the white or coloured organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references Cl 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000,
  • Cosmenyl FB Pigment Red 5 (Cl 12490);
  • the pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1 184 426.
  • These composite pigments may be composed especially of particles comprising a mineral core, at least one binder, which provides for the attachment of the organic pigments to the core, and at least one organic pigment which at least partially covers the core.
  • the organic pigment may also be a lake.
  • “lake” means dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
  • the mineral substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.
  • D & C Red 21 (Cl 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D & C Red 27 (Cl 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (Cl 45 425), D & C Red 3 (Cl 45 430), D & C Red 4 (Cl 15 510), D & C Red 33 (Cl 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985), D & C Green (Cl 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (Cl 77 002), D & C Green 3 (Cl 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090).
  • the pigment may also be a pigment with special effects.
  • pigments with special effects means pigments that generally create a coloured appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vivacity and a certain level of luminance) that is non-uniform and that changes as a function of the conditions of observation (light, temperature, angles of observation, etc.). They thus contrast with coloured pigments that afford a standard uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.
  • pigment with special effects those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index, such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter flakes.
  • pigments with special effects include nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium and especially with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • Nacreous pigments that may be mentioned include the Cellini nacres sold by Engelhard (mica-Ti02-lake), Prestige sold by Eckart (mica-Ti02), Prestige Bronze sold by Eckart (mica-Fe203), and Colorona sold by Merck (mica-Ti02-Fe203).
  • particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
  • Particles comprising a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are sold in particular under the name Metashine MC1080RY by Toyal.
  • pearlescent agents examples include polyethylene terephthalate flakes, especially those sold by Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver 1P 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes).
  • multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.
  • the pigments with special effects may also be chosen from reflective particles, i.e. especially from particles of which the size, structure, especially the thickness of the layer(s) of which they are made and their physical and chemical nature, and surface state, allow them to reflect incident light.
  • This reflection may, if appropriate, have an intensity sufficient to create, at the surface of the composition or mixture, when the latter is applied to the substrate to be made up, highlight points visible to the naked eye, that is to say more luminous points which contrast with their surroundings by appearing to sparkle.
  • the reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the colouring effect generated by the colouring agents with which they are combined, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of colour rendition. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or glint.
  • These particles may have varied forms and may especially be in platelet or globular form, in particular in spherical form.
  • the reflective particles may or may not have a multilayer structure, and, in the case of a multilayer structure, may have, for example, at least one layer of uniform thickness, especially of a reflective material.
  • the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, especially titanium or iron oxides obtained synthetically.
  • the reflective particles may comprise, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, especially a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, especially of at least one metal or metallic material.
  • the substrate may be made of one or more organic and/or mineral materials.
  • glasses More particularly, it may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, especially aluminosilicates and borosilicates, and synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, this list not being limiting.
  • the reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or of a metallic material.
  • Reflective particles are described in particular in the documents JP-A- 09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
  • Particles comprising a glass substrate coated with silver, in the form of platelets are sold under the name Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS by Toyal.
  • Particles with a glass substrate coated with nickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy are sold under the name Crystal Star GF 550 and GF 2525 by this same company.
  • Use may also be made of particles comprising a metal substrate, such as silver, aluminium, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze or titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, such as titanium oxide, aluminium oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.
  • a metal substrate such as silver, aluminium, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze or titanium
  • said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, such as titanium oxide, aluminium oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include aluminium powder, bronze powder or copper powder coated with Si02 sold under the name Visionaire by Eckart.
  • Pigments with an interference effect which are not attached to a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker) or interference holographic glitter flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from Spectratek).
  • Pigments with special effects also comprise fluorescent pigments, whether these are substances that are fluorescent in daylight or that produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, sold, for example, by Quantum Dots Corporation.
  • Quantum dots are luminescent semiconductive nanoparticles capable of emitting, under light excitation, a radiation with a wavelength of between 400 nm and 700 nm. These nanoparticles are known from the literature. In particular, they may be synthesized according to the processes described, for example, in US 6 225 198 or US 5 990 479, in the publications cited therein and also in the following publications: Dabboussi B.O. et al., “(CdSe)ZnS core-shell quantum dots: synthesis and characterisation of a size series of highly luminescent nanocrystallites”, Journal of Physical Chemistry B, vol.
  • pigments that may be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a wide range of colours, and also particular optical effects such as metallic effects or interference effects.
  • the size of the pigment used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 pm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 pm and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 pm.
  • the pigments may be dispersed in the product by means of a dispersant.
  • the dispersant serves to protect the dispersed particles against their agglomeration or flocculation.
  • This dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several thereof, bearing one or more functionalities with strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may become physically or chemically attached to the surface of the pigments.
  • These dispersants also contain at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium.
  • l2-hydroxystearic acid esters in particular and Cs to C20 fatty acid esters of polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol are used, such as poly(l2-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g/mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by Henkel, or polyhydroxystearic acid such as the product sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by Uniqema, and mixtures thereof.
  • poly(l2-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g/mol such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by Henkel, or polyhydroxystearic acid such
  • dispersants that may be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, for instance Solsperse 17 000 sold by Avecia, and polydimethylsiloxane/oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by Dow Coming under the references DC2-5185 and DC2- 5225 C.
  • the pigments used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be surface-treated with an organic agent.
  • the pigments that have been surface-treated beforehand are pigments that have totally or partially undergone a surface treatment of chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanochemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those described especially in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pages 53-64, before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention.
  • organic agents may be chosen, for example, from waxes, for example camauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and derivatives thereof, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol and lauric acid and derivatives thereof; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminium salts of fatty acids, for example aluminium stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethyl methacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanolamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, polydimethylsiloxanes; organofluorine compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicone compounds.
  • waxes for example camauba wax and beeswax
  • fatty acids, fatty alcohols and derivatives thereof such as
  • the surface-treated pigments that are useful in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and/or may have undergone several surface treatments.
  • the surface-treated pigments that are useful in the context of the present invention may be prepared according to surface-treatment techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art, or may be commercially available in the required form.
  • the surface-treated pigments are coated with an organic layer.
  • the organic agent with which the pigments are treated may be deposited on the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surface agent or creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments.
  • the surface treatment may thus be performed, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments or the fillers. This method is especially described in the patent US 4,578,266.
  • An organic agent covalently bonded to the pigments will preferably be used.
  • the agent for the surface treatment may represent from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the surface-treated pigment.
  • the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments:
  • methicone treatment for instance the SI surface treatment sold by LCW;
  • dimethicone treatment for instance the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment sold by LCW;
  • dimethicone/trimethyl siloxysilicate treatment for instance the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment sold by LCW;
  • a magnesium myristate treatment for instance the MM surface treatment sold by LCW;
  • an aluminium dimyristate treatment such as the MI surface treatment sold by Miyoshi;
  • an isostearyl sebacate treatment for instance the HS surface treatment sold by Miyoshi;
  • a perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment for instance the PL surface treatment sold by Daito;
  • an acrylate/dimethicone copolymer and perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment for instance the LSA surface treatment sold by Daito
  • a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane/perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment for instance the FS01 surface treatment sold by Daito
  • an acrylate/dimethicone copolymer treatment for instance the ASC surface treatment sold by Daito;
  • an isopropyl titanium triisostearate treatment for instance the ITT surface treatment sold by Daito;
  • an acrylate copolymer treatment for instance the APD surface treatment sold by Daito;
  • PF + ITT surface treatment sold by Daito.
  • the pigment is chosen from mineral or mixed mineral-organic pigments.
  • the total amount of pigment(s) may range from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more particularly from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and preferably from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention may contain coloured or colouring species other than the pigments according to the invention, such as direct dyes or dye precursors.
  • composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water, which may preferably be present in a content ranging from 20% to 98% by weight, more preferentially from 50 to 85% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances chosen from non-silicone fatty substances that are liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, or non-silicone fatty substances that are solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.
  • the total content of fatty substances may range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions may also comprise at least one agent commonly used in cosmetics, for example chosen from reducing agents, organic solvents, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, UV-screening agents, peptizers, solubilizers, fragrances, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins and vitamins.
  • agent commonly used in cosmetics for example chosen from reducing agents, organic solvents, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, UV-screening agents, peptizers, solubilizers, fragrances, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins and vitamins.
  • the above additives are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01% and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention may especially be in the form of a suspension, a dispersion, a gel, an emulsion, especially an oil-in-water (O/W) or water- in-oil (W/O) emulsion, or a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or polyol/O/W or O/W/O), in the form of a cream, a mousse, a stick, a dispersion of vesicles, especially of ionic or nonionic lipids, or a two-phase or multi-phase lotion.
  • the composition is in the form of a gel.
  • the composition according to the invention generally has a viscosity at 25°C of greater than 100 cps, preferably between 200 and 100 000 cps, more preferentially between 500 and 50 000 cps, more preferentially still between 800 and 10 000 cps, and better still between 2000 and 8000 cps, the viscosity preferably being measured at a spin speed of 200 rpm using a rheometer such as a Rheomat® RM 180 equipped with a No. 3 or 4 spindle, the measurement preferably being taken after 30 seconds of rotation of the spindle (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle are observed).
  • composition according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents.
  • organic solvents examples include lower Ci-C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers, for instance 2- butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and mono methyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols, for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxy ethanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • lower Ci-C 4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol
  • polyols and polyol ethers for instance 2- butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and mono methyl ether
  • aromatic alcohols for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxy ethanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more organic solvents.
  • the organic solvents are present in proportions preferably inclusively between 0.1% and 40% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the dye composition, more preferentially between 1% and 30% by weight approximately and even more particularly inclusively between 5% and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a subject of the invention is a device for applying a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, especially the hair, as described above, comprising a container comprising a body forming a reservoir intended to contain the composition for dyeing keratin fibres as described above and an applicator for applying said composition to the keratin fibres.
  • the device for applying a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, especially the hair, as described above, may have a longitudinal axis (X) and a transverse axis (Y) perpendicular to the longitudinal axis (X).
  • the applicator may comprise a stem fixed to an applicator member at a first end and fixed to a gripping member at a second end.
  • the gripping member of the applicator may constitute a cap for closing the container.
  • the gripping member may be configured to close, in a substantially leaktight manner, a container containing the composition for dyeing keratin fibres.
  • the container may comprise a wiping member suitable for wiping the stem and the applicator member.
  • the applicator member may comprise a core extending along the longitudinal axis (X), a first axial row and a second axial row of spikes protruding from said core. The first axial row and the second axial row of spikes extend from the core.
  • the applicator member may be fixed to the stem by snap-fastening, adhesive bonding, welding, crimping, pressing, stapling, force-fitting, fitting in a cold state or fitting in a hot state, for example by being mounted in a housing in the stem.
  • the stem may be received in a housing provided in the core. It is also possible for the stem and the applicator member to be moulded in one piece.
  • the applicator member may comprise two planar faces.
  • the effect produced by the applicator member may especially be close to that provided by a brush, since the spikes may especially make it possible to comb the hair and to smooth the dyeing composition at the surface of the hair.
  • the core of the applicator may extend along a rectilinear longitudinal axis (X).
  • the core is contained in a plane parallel to the direction of elongation of the spikes.
  • edges of the core which laterally delimit it in top view can be rectilinear along the majority of the length of the core when the latter is viewed from the side perpendicularly to the longitudinal axis (X).
  • the core may comprise a tapered free end. This tapered end may make it possible to retain a drop of composition during removal from the container containing the composition.
  • the core and the spikes may be moulded from one and the same material, or as a variant they can be made from at least two different materials.
  • a part of the core and the spikes may for example be made from a first material, and another part of the core and the spikes may be made from a second material which is for example more flexible or harder than the first material.
  • the core and/or the spikes may be made of an elastomeric, thermoplastic or thermosetting material, metal or ceramic.
  • the applicator member may be formed in one piece with the rod by moulding or injection of plastic material.
  • plastic material for example SEBS, a silicone, EPDM (ethylene - propylene - diene monomer) a nitrile, a polyester elastomer, a polyamide elastomer, a polyethylene elastomer or a vinyl elastomer, but also a polyolefin such as PE or PP, PET, POM, PA (polyamide), PA12, PBT (polybutylene terephthalate), HDPE (high-density polyethylene), PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate) or hytrel, this list not being limiting.
  • the applicator member may also, where appropriate, be produced by moulding a metal material or by machining.
  • the core and the spikes are formed in one piece by injection of PBT plastic material.
  • the applicator is formed by injection of PBT plastic material.
  • the applicator may have a stiffness of greater than or equal to 63 ShD, preferably greater than or equal to 72 ShD, measured according to the Shore method for monitoring hardness (NF EN ISO 868).
  • the core and the first axial row and the second axial row of spikes may have a stiffness of greater than or equal to 63 ShD, preferably greater than or equal to 72 ShD, measured according to the Shore method for monitoring hardness (NF EN ISO 868).
  • the applicator having such a stiffness value, makes it possible to facilitate the application of the dyeing composition as described previously to the hair, avoiding the entangling of the hair and enabling good strand separation of the hair.
  • the spikes may be produced by moulding or overmoulding with the core.
  • the spikes may, for example, be produced by a technique in which a material is injected through at least one part of the core, so as to allow the formation of the spikes.
  • the first axial row and the second axial row of spikes may extend along a rectilinear longitudinal axis (X).
  • the first axial row and the second axial row of spikes may extend along parallel to the longitudinal axis (X).
  • the first axial row and the second axial row of spikes are contained in a plane containing the longitudinal axis (X).
  • the spikes each extend from the core along a transverse axis (Y) perpendicular to the longitudinal axis (X).
  • the spikes are perpendicular to the longitudinal axis (X).
  • the spikes of the first axial row may be parallel to one another.
  • the spikes of the second axial row may be parallel to one another.
  • the spikes may comprise a base which is connected to the core and an opposite free end along the transverse axis (Y).
  • the spikes may extend along the transverse axis (Y) between their base, via which they are connected to the core, and their free end.
  • the spikes of the first axial row and of the second axial row may extend over more than half the length of the core, especially over more than three quarters of the length of the core.
  • the spikes of the first axial row and of the second axial row may have an elongation axis which is coincident with the transverse axis (Y).
  • the elongation axis of some of the spikes may form an angle other than 90° with the longitudinal axis (X) or with a plane containing this axis.
  • the spikes may project beyond the core when the applicator is viewed in side view perpendicularly to the longitudinal axis (X) of the core. This allows improved separation of the hair, the spikes standing out from the sides of the core and thus being easily accessible during application.
  • the height of at least one spike, measured from the core may be between 1 and 10 mm, preferably between 1.5 and 5 mm, even more preferentially between 2 and 4 mm.
  • the height of the spikes may vary over the entire length of the longitudinal axis of the core. Alternatively, the height of the spikes may be constant over the entire length of the longitudinal axis (X) of the core.
  • the first axial row and the second axial row comprise identical spikes.
  • the spikes of the first axial row may extend parallel to a first direction and the spikes of the second axial row may extend parallel to a second direction.
  • the first direction and the second direction may make an angle of 180° with one another. For example, this angle may be between 150° and 210°.
  • the spikes may differ from one another by way of at least one of their shape, thickness, height, orientation, colour and/or material.
  • the spikes may have any shape.
  • the spikes may have a cylindrical or tapered, in particular conical, frustoconical or pyramidal shape. At least one spike may end with a rounded, in particular hemispherical, free end.
  • the applicator may comprise between 10 and 100 spikes, for example between 15 and 80 spikes.
  • the first axial row and the second axial row of spikes may comprise a different number of spikes.
  • Each row may comprise for example between 10 and 40 spikes.
  • the first axial row of spikes has a maximum spacing between two adjacent spikes which is different to the maximum spacing between two adjacent spikes of the second axial row of spikes.
  • the first axial row of spikes may have a maximum spacing between two adjacent spikes which is less than the maximum spacing between two adjacent spikes of the second axial row.
  • the device for applying the composition for dyeing keratin fibres as described above has a longitudinal axis (X) and a transverse axis (Y) perpendicular to the longitudinal axis (X).
  • Figure 1 depicts a device 1 for applying a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, especially the hair, as described above.
  • the device 1 comprises a container 2 comprising a body 9 formed of a reservoir intended to contain the composition for dyeing keratin fibres as described above and an applicator 3 for applying said composition to the keratin fibres.
  • the container 2 may comprise a threaded neck 4.
  • the applicator 3 may comprise a closure cap 5 designed to be fastened on the threaded neck 4 so as to close the container 2 in a sealed manner when it is not in use, the closure cap 5 also constituting a gripping member for the applicator 3.
  • the applicator 3 may comprise a stem 7 of longitudinal axis (X), which is attached at its upper end to the closure cap 5 and at its lower end to an applicator member
  • the container 2 also has a wiping member 6, for example inserted into the threaded neck 4.
  • This wiping member 6, which may be any wiping member, may comprise a lip designed to wipe the stem 7 and the applicator member 8 when the applicator 3 is withdrawn from the container 2.
  • the lip defines a wiping orifice 6a having a diameter adapted to that of the stem.
  • the stem 7 may have a circular cross section, but it would not constitute a departure from the scope of the present invention if the stem 7 had a cross section other than circular, it then being possible to fasten the cap 5 on the container 2 in some other way than by screwing, if necessary.
  • the wiping member is adapted to the shape of the stem 7 and to that of the applicator member 8, if appropriate.
  • the applicator member 8 may comprise a core 10 extending along the longitudinal axis (X), a first axial row 20 and a second axial row 21 of spikes 22 protruding from said core.
  • the first axial row 20 and the second axial row 21 of spikes 22 extend from the core 10.
  • the stem 7 extends along a rectilinear longitudinal axis which is coincident with the rectilinear longitudinal axis of the core.
  • the core 10 may be of elongated form along the longitudinal axis (X), which is rectilinear. Preferably, the core 10 extends along a rectilinear longitudinal axis (X).
  • the core may comprise a distal portion 11 which is forwardly rounded in order to facilitate insertion of the applicator 3 into the container 2.
  • the visible length L of the applicator member 8 may be between 5 mm and 40 mm, better still between 10 mm and 30 mm.
  • first axial row 20 and the second axial row 21 of spikes 22 are connected on each opposite side of the core parallel to the longitudinal axis (X).
  • the first axial row 20 and the second axial row 21 of spikes are contained in a plane containing the longitudinal axis (X).
  • first axial row 20 and the second axial row 21 of spikes are parallel along the longitudinal axis (X).
  • the spikes 22 may each extend from the core 10 along a transverse axis (Y) perpendicular to the longitudinal axis (X).
  • the spikes 22 of the first axial row 20 may be parallel to one another.
  • the spikes 22 of the second axial row 21 may be parallel to one another.
  • the spikes 22 of the first axial row 20 and of the second axial row 21 may have an elongation axis which is coincident with the transverse axis (Y).
  • the elongation axis of some of the spikes 22 may form an angle other than 90° with the longitudinal axis (X) or with a plane containing this axis.
  • FIG. 2 depicts the applicator member 8 from figure 1 in isolation.
  • the spikes 22 may comprise a base which is connected to the core 10 and an opposite free end along the transverse axis (Y).
  • the first axial row 20 of spikes 22 may have a maximum spacing A between two adjacent spikes. This maximum spacing A is measured by calculating the distance between two free ends of two adjacent spikes.
  • the maximum spacing A is calculated between the free end a and the free end b of two adjacent spikes of the first axial row 20 of spikes.
  • the maximum spacing A between two adjacent spikes 22 of the first axial row 20 is 0.55 mm, preferably between 0.50 mm and 0.65 mm.
  • This maximum spacing between two adjacent spikes of the first axial row makes it possible to obtain a fine deposit of dye composition on the hair.
  • the second axial row 21 of spikes 22 may have a maximum spacing B between two adjacent spikes. This maximum spacing B is measured by calculating the distance between two free ends of two adjacent spikes.
  • the maximum spacing B is calculated between the free end c and the free end d of two adjacent spikes of the second axial row 21 of spikes.
  • the maximum spacing B between two adjacent spikes 22 of the second axial row 21 is 0.72 mm, preferably between 0.66 mm and 0.80 mm.
  • the first axial row 20 and the second axial row 21 of spikes 22 have a different maximum spacing between two adjacent spikes.
  • This difference in spacing between two adjacent spikes in each row located on each side of the core makes it possible to carry out different types of deposition of dyeing composition on the hair (thinner or thicker deposit) depending, for example, on the size of the area of the hair to be covered, or on the type of hair to be dyed.
  • the height h of at least one spike corresponds to the distance measured along the elongation axis of the spike between its free end and its base by way of which it is connected to the core.
  • the height h of at least one spike, measured from the core may be between 1 and 10 mm, preferably between 1.5 and 5 mm, even more preferentially between 2 and 4 mm.
  • the core 10 and/or the spikes 22 may, furthermore, comprise particles, for example a filler, especially a compound which is magnetic, bacteriostatic or absorbs moisture, or else a compound intended to produce roughness on the surface of the spikes 22 or to help the hair to slide on the spikes.
  • At least one of the core and a spike may be flocked, receive any heat or mechanical treatment, and/or comprise particles, for example a filler, in order especially to improve the sliding of the applicator member 8 on the hair.
  • the user may unscrew the closure cap 5 and withdraw the applicator member 8 from the container 2.
  • a certain amount of composition as described above remains between the first axial row 20 and the second axial row 21 of spikes 22 and may be applied to the hair, in particular at the temples, by the user.
  • Another subject of the invention is a process for dyeing keratin fibres, especially human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said fibres of a composition as defined above, applied from a device as defined above.
  • the dyeing composition according to the invention applied by the device described above, may be used on wet or dry keratin fibres, and also on any type of fair or dark, natural or dyed, permanent- waved, bleached or relaxed fibres.
  • the fibres are washed before application of the composition described above.
  • the dyeing process is generally carried out at ambient temperature (between l5°C and 25°C).
  • the fibres can be left to dry or can be dried, for example at a temperature of greater than or equal to 30°C. According to a specific embodiment, this temperature is greater than 40°C. According to a specific embodiment, this temperature is greater than 45°C and less than 220°C.
  • the fibres are dried, they are dried, in addition to a supply of heat, with a flow of air. This flow of air during the drying makes it possible to improve the individualization of the sheathing.
  • a mechanical action may be exerted on the locks, such as combing, brushing or running the fingers through. This operation may similarly be performed once the fibres have been dried, naturally or otherwise.
  • the drying step of the process of the invention may be performed with a hood, a hairdryer, a straightening iron, a climazone, etc.
  • the drying temperature is between 30 and 1 l0°C and preferably between 50 and 90°C.
  • the drying temperature is between 110 and 220°C and preferably between 140 and 200°C.
  • fluid amino silicone copolymer of dimethylsiloxane - aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane comprising trimethylsilyl end groups, having an amine number of 7.2 mg of KOH/g and a viscosity of 5600 mPa.s at 25°C
  • a 1 st vessel 1800 g of dimethylsiloxane comprising trimethylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity of 61 500 mPa.s at 25°C, are added, with stirring, and the stirring is maintained for 2 hours at ambient temperature.
  • steareth-6 and 62 g of PEG100 stearate are mixed, and the mixture is heated to 60°C. The mixture is maintained at this temperature until a liquid mixture is obtained, then 31 g of trideceth-3 and 350 g of trideceth-lO (80% of active material) are added.
  • this 2nd vessel creamy paste
  • the lst vessel containing the silicones
  • the mixture obtained is mixed for 30 minutes at ambient temperature (20-25°C).
  • the mixing steps are carried out in order to obtain a homogeneous mixture; they are carried out at ambient temperature.
  • An oil- in- water emulsion having a particle size D50 of 170 nm is obtained.
  • compositions (g /l00g)
  • composition A according to the invention is inserted into a container as described above and is applied to natural hair at the temples using the applicator of the invention.
  • the applicator of the invention (as shown in Figure 3) has a first axial row of spikes with a spacing between two adjacent spikes of 0,55 mm and a second axial row of spikes with a spacing between two adjacent spikes of 0,72 mm.
  • the application is easy, without entangling of the hair during the passage of the applicator.
  • the hair is then combed, dried with a hairdryer and then combed again.
  • the hair is smooth and has good strand separation, having a pleasant cosmetic feel, especially good softness, good suppleness and a lack of tackiness. Moreover, staining of the skin and the scalp in contact with the hair located at the temples is limited.
  • compositions (g /l00g) AM Active material
  • composition B is inserted into a container as described above, comprising a reservoir.
  • Composition B is applied to natural hair at the temples in a standard way: 3 applicator passages from hair base.
  • the applicator of the invention (as shown in Figure 3) has a first axial row of spikes with a spacing between two adjacent spikes of 0,55 mm and a second axial row of spikes with a spacing between two adjacent spikes of 0,72 mm.
  • the first applicator passage is done with the second axial row of spikes of the applicator of the invention and the second and third applicator passages is done with the first axial row of spikes of the applicator of the invention.
  • the comparative brush applicator is shown in Figure 4.
  • the hair is dried with a hairdryer.
  • the applicator according to the invention allows to dye the hair located at the temples, without staining the scalp and/or the skin.
  • the comparative brush applicator as shown in Figure. 4, leads to the presence of staining areas on the scalp and on the skin (in the temples, at the hair root).
  • the applicator according to the invention allows to significantly reduce the staining of the skin and the scalp, in comparison with a comparative brush applicator.
  • the applicator according to the invention allows a good strand separation of the hair.
  • the comparative brush applicators leads to the agglomeration of the hair and not good strand separation of the hair.
  • the applicator according to the invention allows to significantly improve the strand separation of the hair, in comparison with comparative brush applicators.

Abstract

Dispositif (1) pour appliquer une composition destinée à colorer des fibres de kératine, en particulier des cheveux, comprenant un récipient (2) comprenant un corps (9) formant un réservoir destiné à contenir la composition destinée à colorer des fibres de kératine, ladite composition comprenant au moins un copolymère dérivé de la polymérisation d'au moins un monomère de l'acide crotonique ou d'un dérivé d'acide crotonique et d'au moins un monomère d'ester vinylique, d'au moins un polymère épaississant contenant des motifs acide (méth)acrylique, et au moins un pigment. Le dispositif (1) comprend également un applicateur (3) pour appliquer ladite composition sur les fibres kératiniques.
PCT/EP2019/066485 2018-06-28 2019-06-21 Dispositif d'application d'une composition de coloration de fibres kératiniques, comprenant au moins un copolymère dérivé de la polymérisation d'au moins un monomère de l'acide crotonique ou d'un dérivé d'acide crotonique WO2020002154A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1855871 2018-06-28
FR1855871A FR3083059B1 (fr) 2018-06-28 2018-06-28 Dispositif pour l’application d’une composition de coloration des fibres keratiniques comprenant au moins un copolymere issu de la polymerisation d’au moins un monomere d’acide crotonique ou derive d’acide crotonique

Publications (1)

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